November–December 2008 » Washington Trails www.wta.org On Trail Northwest Explorer » Rails to Trails Taking the train to hikes and a backcountry lodge in Montana’s Glacier National Park between this eager adventurer and the wilder- ness. An Amtrak 4:45 pm daily departure dur- ing the summer allows a traveler the chance to eat dinner, sleep, and awake ready to embrace the mountain air. The whistle stop at 8:16 the following morning at West Glacier, Montana, deposits me and three friends on the doorstep of the gem of the National Park System, Glacier National Park. I am back for the third year in a row, returning to the mecca of my wilderness dreams, Sperry Chalet. This architectural marvel was built by Italian masons between 1912 and 1913 and is one of two remaining backcountry chalets of the nine that once graced Glacier. The allure this third year is the stone structure that lies 3,400 feet above Lake MacDonald. The 95-year- old stone kitchen and dormitory will shelter and feed me and my three backcountry-virgin friends. Some quick history: In early 2006 my then nine- and eleven-year-old girls and my husband set the goal of climbing 3,400 feet over the 6.7 miles of trail to Sperry Chalet. By mid-June we The author boards a train from Seattle to Glacier National Park, were like dieters at Dairy Queen and realized Montana. After a 15-hour train ride, you can start hiking to one that we needed a Plan B. We decided to divide of the West’s oldest backcountry lodges. and conquer—two by horseback and two by foot. I mention this because my girls’ ability to make it was inspirational to the girlfriends I convinced to accompany me this year. In On the Rails August 2007, my husband returned to Sperry Nestled in the upper bunk, I read Dharma Chalet with me, if only for the fishing at Lake Bums by Jack Kerouac. Sirens blared through Ellen Wilson. A fly fisher will endure anything– the Washington dark, churning cross country. even if it’s 15 hours on the train and a 9.5-mile Oh, to be the rucksack wanderer of Kerouac, Reisha hike—to reach the crystalline waters of an footloose and fueled on raisins and peanuts. alpine lake brimming with Eastern brook trout. Holton No high-tech protein bars or sissy pink sports But now, propped up on two pillows in the Reisha is a WTA drinks. Just tennis shoes, a bedroll and a can corner of my room where my iron bed meets member from of beans. the wall, I snuggle under a freshly laundered A mere 15 hours of railroad are all that stand Sammamish. plum-colored chenille bedspread and three poly- www.wta.org November–December 2008 » Washington Trails On Trail « ester/wool blankets. It is late August 2008. It is the fried egg sandwich off the a in this dark stone-walled room that I write. The la carte lunch menu! room is cold and illuminated only with the light The climb ends on a ramp from the wood-framed windows. Today the of rock that leads to steps that windows are clamped shut, trying to keep out deposit you in front of the dining the sleeting rain that is freezing to the screen. hall. We checked in and rested, I could chill beer or reform a melted candy bar exhausted from battling wind, by fitting them on the ledges fashioned by the rain and elevation. It wasn’t quite massive stones. But I don’t. Today, the tempera- over, however—our room was still ture warrants bowls of split pea soup and pots another 200 feet up the mountain. of sweetened hot tea. Comfort in the An Epic Hike A wide logging road takes you past the Backcountry From my perch under the cov- namesake trail marker and Mule Shoe Out- ers, recovering from the 6.7-mile fitters, which serves as the only other way climb in the rain to Sperry Chalet, to reach Sperry Chalet. On Thursdays and I hear all the other visitors set- Sundays expect to share the trail with ten to tling in. There’s no insulation fifteen mules that carry supplies in large trash between the tongue-and-groove cans strapped across their broad backs. wall boards and the old building As soon as the aromas of the horse stables creaks when you breathe. I hear subside, the trail picks up in elevation. The first the whispers of my friends on 2 miles find you climbing among old-growth ce- the other side of the wall as well dar and hemlock with every step. Not a Mount as every other voice that will be Si or Mailbox Peak pace, but a steady climb sleeping in the two rooms above that lets you know you are definitely moving me. Friendly jabs or marital mis- upward. The trail narrows, bordered with an communications could easily find understory of fern, salal and Oregon grape. their way into conversation in the Even with the tall timbers creating a canopy dining room later that night! overhead, the relentless rain slowed us down. At Sperry Chalet, the voices It was hard to gauge the effectiveness of our are unfamiliar, but the stories rain gear since we were sweating a lot from the similar. “Did you come up today?” inside and getting dumped on from the outside! “Which route did you take?” “Have you been Above: On the 6.7-mile At the 3-mile mark, you reach a pedestrian here before?” “Where are you from?” An instant hike to Sperry Chalet. bridge over Snyder Creek. The first bit of uphill family is formed, a family sharing stories of ends just after the bridge and a euphoric, me- tired feet or heavy packs, trails trampled or andering portion of the trail opens up. Vistas sights seen. Below: On the steep of rock walls on your left and Beaver Medicine Communal happy hour is taking place when climb to Sperry, you’ll Falls crashing below on your right are set I want to nap. No alcohol is served at Sperry gain 3,400 feet, but the against a changed backdrop of pines, firs and Chalet, but creative hikers celebrate with boxed larch. Along this portion, you will see plenty views are worth it. wine or flasks of spirits in their rooms. Often of flat, almost tabletop-like rocks that make a Photos by Reisha Holton great lunch stop, which we needed. The dif- ference in elevation took its toll on a couple of Puget Sound lowlanders! Just as we fell under the spell of hiking rela- tively happy and flat terrain, the dream abrupt- ly ended. The trail takes a decided left turn at the end of the fifth mile and the real work of getting to Sperry Chalet begins again. You only have 1.7 miles to go, but the trail becomes a staircase. The valley below the chalet spreads out to your right and glacial waters flow through a small creekbed. The buildings are perched on the cliff above and to the right. My friends were not impressed when I spied the building through the fog and blowing clouds. We trudged on in silence until we reached a footbridge over Sprague Creek. Someone head- ing down told us we were almost there, and I think my friends finally began to believe me when I said we were close. I was hungering for » On Trail November–December 2008 » Washington Trails www.wta.org

the celebration takes place on the wide veranda ting. College roommates, retirees, recent college on the front of the dormitory. But not this year, grads and Montana natives comprise a crew when whitecaps on Lake MacDonald waved that specializes in welcoming, hospitable care. to us as we Karen headed up Reeves, Mon- the trail. tana native But still, and 2008 resi- it is a place dent manager, worth remembers celebrating, one time this almost she visited 100-year- Sperry as a old wonder! child. “We sat Greeting wea- on the front ry walkers steps waiting and hungry for the laun- hikers with dry, swatting lemonade and off the moun- warmth, the tain goats staff at Sper- like they were ry embodies flies.” She the American now shares life of days the history long ago. of her prede- The Chalet cessor, Kay is staffed You’ll have a menu of hikes to choose from at Sperry Chalet. Luding, who from about managed the July 4 to Chalet for September 7 each year, offering the luxury of over 30 years. A plaque in the stone kitchen food and shelter in a historic backcountry set- shares Kay’s wisdom for visitors to the Chalet: “I’ve been here nearly 30 years now and no two days have been the same. So, while you’re here, pay attention! Whatever happens to you today will never happen again.” Karen shared the story of a young family who appeared at the Sperry Chalet doorstep on an unusually hot July afternoon. “You serve food here?” asked a father with tired wife and cranky kids in tow. “Well, we do,” answered Karen with twin- kling eyes. “But I didn’t bring my wallet,” said the man.

Above: One of the chalets at the end of your hike. These stone cabins have been hosting hikers to Glacier for ninety-five years.

Right: You’ll want to bring along a fly rod for the abundant little Eastern brook trout in Lake Ellen Wilson, 3 miles from the chalet.

Photos by Reisha Holton www.wta.org November–December 2008 » Washington Trails On Trail «

“We were just headed to Snyder Lake, and...,” he trailed off. “I am sure you can call your credit card company,” Karen replied, her words seeming to pat him on the shoulder. “Order what you need. We have cherry pie, by the way...” This fortunate hiker and his fam- ily had stumbled upon one of the best-kept secrets of Glacier National Park. Seven days a week in summer, 40 to 50 people a night are fed and sheltered at Sperry Chalet. “It sifts out the crumbs,” Reeves, explains of the hike to the chalet. With day hikes to Sperry Glacier, Lake Ellen Wilson, Lincoln Lake and Gunsight Pass in your new backyard, Sperry makes a great base camp for several days of adventure in the park. Reserva- tions for the following year begin in October. I start checking the website (www.sperrychalet.com) around mid-Septem- car. Above: Happy hour ber for information on next year’s reservations. Describing the history of the chalet system at Sperry Chalet. There are a lot of us out there who will hike in in Glacier in their book, A View with a Room, Though the restau- torrential rain and huddle in cold stone build- Ray Djuff and Chris Morrison remark, “Sperry rant doesn’t serve ings for fun. And there are even more who of us remains a holdover from the era before the alcohol, creative who count on being warmed by the Montana Going-to-the-Sun Road opened a great swath hikers pack in their sun by day and seeing stars, “millions of them of the interior of Glacier Park to cars, when own refreshments. glittering like a diamond ring,” as my daughter the only way to see the remote wilderness of Katie described it. Glacier was [on foot or] on horseback.” Railroad One way to reach Sperry Chalet is to start history is at the heart of Glacier National Park’s near Lake MacDonald Lodge. Thanks to the beginnings and makes reaching the park by rail Below: The hike to advent of the automobile and shuttle service, a romantic, carefree and relaxing adventure. Sperry is a great way getting from the train station to the trailhead Channel your inner Jack Kerouac. Ride the rails to bond with friends. 11 miles uproad is a matter of preference. In with your rucksack and raisins, and relive an Now is a good time 2007, an Amtrak worker took pity on Steve and age that does still exist—if only at 6,600 feet to make reservations me as we failed to notice that there was the along the Continental Divide.  at www.sperrycha- 1.8-mile distance between the train depot and let.com. the Apgar shuttle station in the park. Third Photos by Reisha Holton time’s a charm, though, as this year I discov- ered that Glacier Park Inc. operates door-to-door shuttle service (www.glacierparkinc.com) that is available by reservation. For $6 each, we were transported in a 15-passenger van directly to Lake MacDonald Lodge. Just across the Going-to-the-Sun Road, which cuts an engineering marvel through Glacier National Park, is the Sperry Trail. This is also the start of day hikes to Mount Brown Lookout and Snyder Lake. The other way to reach the chalet is to start near the Logan Pass Visitor Center and the Jackson Glacier Overlook on the Gunsight Pass Trail. This route is longer (approximately 12.8 miles) and supposedly more strenuous since you must climb over both Gunsight Pass and Lin- coln Pass. Although the overall elevation gains are similar to the hike on the Sperry Trail, this route allows you to dissect the park, starting at one location and ending at another. And thanks to the shuttle service within Glacier National Park, you can now attempt this hike without a