Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ Volume XXXII, No. 2 SPERRY BURNS 100 Years at Lake McD

(Photo courtesy of the National Park Service.)

In this issue: • Wildfire in Glacier and Waterton •Lake McDonald Evacuated • Embers Shower the Prince of Wales • Remembering the Night of the Grizzlies • Death and Survival in Glacier • The Demise of the Chalets • Giants in Glacier • Jammer Tales • A Many Glacier Reflection • Unprecedented Traffic in the Park • The Twelve Days of Waiting • Inside News of the Summer of 2017 Paradise Lost: Traffic Congestion in Glacier

The fires of August in Glacier Park beyond past experience in Glacier. entrance sometimes were backed generated national attention. Gla- The problem certainly will recur in up onto Highway 2. Parking lots cier veterans were shocked to hear future seasons. It poses a very diffi- and campgrounds were filled by that the fire had destroyed the main cult management challenge. early morning. Emergency closures building at Sperry Chalets. Lake had to be imposed on traffic in the Glacier’s charm always has rested McDonald Lodge and its majestic Swiftcurrent, Two Medicine and in part on relatively light visitation. cedar-and-hemlock forest lay exposed Bowman valleys. We’ve all thought complacently that to destruction for weeks. The Prince Glacier is a cold park, far from large Twenty years ago, the Glacier Park of Wales Hotel, across the border in population centers, with limited Foundation had a large role in devel- Canada, nearly burned. September lodging. We’ve given thanks that we oping Glacier’s General Management finally brought deliverance, with don’t have traffic jams like those in Plan. We successfully advocated for much-prayed-for rain and snow. Yosemite and Yellowstone. a “status quo” baseline for Glacier’s These dramatic events drew atten- management. That baseline made But no longer! Last July, Glacier tion away from a more mundane good sense and reflected the desires of drew more visitors than Yellowstone crisis in June and July. Overcrowd- a vast majority of the visiting public. did. There was unprecedented ing occurred on a startling scale, crowding. Cars at the West Glacier The status quo is changing now, and management policies must be Overcrowding occurred on a startling scale, adapted. There will be no easy an- beyond past experience in Glacier. The swers. The Park shouldn’t undertake radical departures and restrictions on problem certainly will recur in future seasons. public use. But careful study, reca- libration and creativity are essential, Glacier Park Foundation Officers: this winter and in the seasons ahead, P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President to address effectively the dramatic Minneapolis, MN 55415 Carol Dahle, Vice President increase in visitation to Glacier. www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary [email protected] Tessie Bundick, Historian Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer Joe Blair Laura Chihara, Webmaster The Inside Trail takes its name Mike Buck Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Tessie Bundick from the famous old trail Laura Chihara which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Park Lodge with the vanished Brian Cross The Glacier Park Foundation was Carol Repulski Dahle formed by Glacier Park employees chalets at Two Medicine, Joyce Daugaard and visitors who have a deep love for Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Ray Djuff this special place. The Foundation is name thus emphasizes the Emily Trapp Hackethorn commited both to the importance John Hagen of wilderness preservation and to publication’s focus on the the importance of places like Glacier Einar Hanson as classrooms where people can lore and history of Glacier Paul Hoff experience wilderness in intense National Park. We invite Mark Hufstetler meaningful ways, learning not only a submission of historical, Jeff Kuhn love for the land, but also a respect Linda Young Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to scientific, or anecdotal ar- Rolf Larson preserve that land. The Foundation ticles, commentary, poetry, Greg Notess has a special interest in Glacier Park’s John Sauer history, traditions and visitor facilities. or artwork for publication in Rick Taylor future issues. Mac Willemssen

2 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail INSIDE NEWS OF THE SUMMER OF 2017 WILD FIRE in Glacier and Waterton

A summer of crowds and broken at- terrain where firefighters could tendance records in Glacier Nation- not effectively work. Helicopters al Park ironically ended with much dropped water on the blaze, but of the Park completely deserted. were unable to put it out. Extensive evacuation was forced by the Sprague Fire east of Lake A rash of fires in the western U.S. McDonald. Sperry Chalets’ his- had spread firefighting resources toric main structure was burned by thin. For three weeks, fire manag- the fire, and Lake McDonald Lodge ers sought to contain the Sprague was menaced for several weeks. Fire with limited personnel as its perimeter steadily spread. Meanwhile, across border, the Ke- now Fire ravaged Glacier’s Cana- On August 29, Xanterra Parks dian neighbor, Waterton National and Recreation (Glacier’s con- Park. The Waterton townsite was cessioner) announced that Lake evacuated and the historic Prince McDonald Lodge would be closed of Wales Hotel was nearly burned. for the summer, a month ahead The dramatic events at Sperry and of schedule. The reason was that the Prince of Wales are described (Sperry photo courtesy of smoke from the Sprague Fire was the National Park Service.) by Ray Djuff in the feature stories settling thickly around the lodge. in this issue. Air quality monitors had registered This was the fourth “hazardous” readings. Xanterra was This was the fourth summer in four- summer in fourteen concerned for the safety of employees. teen years in which Glacier has lost prime vistas to catastrophic fires. In years in which Glacier Glacier Park, Inc. had the same 2003, the Roberts Fire burned Howe has lost prime vistas concerns, and closed its Motel Lake Ridge on the west side of Lake Mc- to catastrophic fires. McDonald. The horse and boat Donald, and the Trapper Fire burned concessions struggled on for a couple the Loop Trail area. In 2010, the of days and then shut down. it lost another 100,000 acres to the Red Eagle Fire ignited southeast of On August 31, disaster struck. High St. Mary Lake and consumed more Half Moon Fire and other confla- grations. (The early fires gave rise winds drove the Sprague Fire rapidly than 30,000 acres around Divide eastward, more than doubling its Mountain and on the Blackfeet to many place names on the south side of the Park, including Firebrand size. An “ember storm” driven by Reservation. In 2015, the Reynolds the fire ignited Sperry Chalets’ main Fire burned miles of the Going-to- Pass, Skeleton Mountain, Soldier Mountain, and Mount Despair.) building. The 103-year-old structure the-Sun Road corridor on the north burned fiercely and was destroyed, side of St. Mary Lake. The Sprague Fire leaving blackened stonework sugges- These losses recall the apocalyptic The crisis of 2017 began with a tive of London after the Blitz. lightning storm on August 10. It forest fires of Glacier’s early years. In The Sperry Chalets have been an 1910, in its very first summer, the touched off a fire in the Sprague Creek drainage below Mt. Ed- icon. Everyone familiar with Gla- Park lost 100,000 acres of forest (a cier is shocked and saddened by the tenth of its total area). In the 1920s, wards, a couple of miles from Lake McDonald. The fire was in steep main building’s loss. The chalets

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 3 are reachable only by arduous uphill Smoke settled incessantly around Many trails in the Lake McDonald trails, seven miles from Lake Mc- Lake McDonald Lodge. Firefighters Valley, the North Fork, and the Goat Donald or thirteen miles from Jack- described it as “like soup,” and had Haunt area had to be closed. son Glacier Overlook, over Gunsight difficulty breathing. The smoke’s Meanwhile, in Canada, the Kenow Pass and Lincoln Pass. Countless diminishment of oxygen, however, Fire blew eastward from British hikers recall relaxing at Sperry after dampened the fire and had a protec- Columbia and devastated Waterton weary miles on the trail, enjoying a tive effect near the lodge. National Park. Flames sometimes pitcher of Kool-Aid and a slice of the In late September, rain and snow billowed 400 feet high as it bore chalets’ famous pie. finally came to Glacier and beat the down on the Waterton townsite and Three days after the chalet was lost, fire down. The majestic 500-year- the Prince of Wales Hotel. As Ray the wind shifted to the east and drove old cedar-hemlock forest along Lake Djuff relates in subsequent pages, the Sprague Fire in the direction of McDonald and in the Avalanche area the town and the hotel were barely Lake McDonald. The Park Service was spared, as were all the structures saved. Some 30 percent of the Park ordered an evacuation from the on the lake. But thousands of acres was burned. south end of the lake to Logan Pass. of forest along the trail from the lodge Unprecedented Visitation The Mount Brown fire lookout, im- to Sperry Chalets, on Mt. Brown, on Through June, July, and early Au- minently threatened, was wrapped in Snyder Ridge, and in the Lincoln and gust, before the onset of the fire, protective materials. Other build- Walton drainages were charred. And Glacier Park had unheard-of visita- ings also were wrapped, including we all mourn the loss of the chalet. tion. Emergency measures repeat- the Lake McDonald residence of Other Fires edly had to be taken to deal with Montana’s long-ago Senator Burton While the Sprague Fire was Glacier’s traffic congestion. Wheeler (a famous isolationist in the most destructive blaze this year, other ‘30s) and various patrol cabins. Lines of cars at the West Glacier fires also impacted the Park. The entrance sometimes extended back Historic artifacts were removed from Adair Peak Fire started on the ridge for half a mile, through the townsite. Lake McDonald Lodge, and defen- south of Logging Lake and burned The Park Service had to “flush” traf- sive efforts were focused there. Fire- some 4,000 acres. This fire forced fic, letting cars in free of charge. The fighters from several communities the closure of several North Fork east side entrances saw unprecedented in the Flathead Valley came to the trails and campgrounds during late volumes of traffic as well. The St. lodge to assist with protection. A August and September. Mary entrance had more than a 60% “Rain for Rent” system with roughly The Elder Creek Fire started just increase in June 2017 compared to two miles of hose and high-capacity north of Glacier in British Columbia June 2016, even though Logan Pass sprinklers was deployed around and burned down into the Kishene- had opened two weeks earlier in the lodge. A similar system was hn Creek area in Glacier. South and 2016. deployed at the Trail of the Cedars west of Glacier, very large fires in the and Avalanche Campground. These The Logan Pass parking lot, always Flathead and Lolo National Forests systems were meant to cool the area, crowded at midday in previous sum- destroyed many thousands of acres. increase humidity and create a “rain mers, now sometimes was full by forest” environment. Because of the extreme fire danger, 8:00 AM. In August, the Park Ser- the Park Service completely suspend- vice began imposing a time limit of Meanwhile, the Sprague Fire made ed the issuance of backcountry per- an hour on about 60 parking spaces terrific runs down mountain slopes mits in Glacier for two periods in late to let more visitors use the lot. overlooking the lake. Nocturnal August and September. Hundreds witnesses at Apgar, watching the fire The Swiftcurrent Valley repeatedly of existing permits were cancelled. ten miles away, described it as “like Christmas lights coming down,” and expressed disbelief that it could be Sudden death in Glacier Park typically involves stopped. A witness to a run in the cliffs or treacherous water. This year a sudden Lincoln drainage said that it was tragedy was triggered by both. “like a bomb going off.”

4 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail experienced overflow traffic, with no reality in Glacier. “Tiny Homes” at St. Mary parking spots at Many Glacier or at Glacier Park, Inc. expanded its St. Tragedy at Haystack Creek Swiftcurrent and cars parked along Mary Lodge facilities at the gateway Sudden death in Glacier Park typi- the road. The Park Service had to to Glacier with a compound of ten cally involves cliffs or treacherous impose emergency shutdowns, stop- “Tiny Homes.” These miniature water. This year a sudden tragedy ping ingress completely or allowing cabins recall the cabins that Hugh was triggered by both. one car in for one car out. Black used to build in a day when he Parking problems were rife at Ava- lanche as well, with disorderly park- The Park Service is pondering strategies for the ing along the roadside. (In 2016, a car parked on the brink of the ditch future. Existing planning programs for Going-to- tipped over!) “One car out; one car the-Sun Road and for wilderness management will in” protocols had to be implemented focus on the traffic problem. at Bowman Lake, and Two Medicine experienced multiple closures. In late July, Robert Dunbar, 26, of and his bride Margaret first estab- The Park Service is pondering strate- Corvallis, Oregon, was travelling lished the St. Mary compound. They gies for the future. Existing planning Going-to-the-Sun Road with his measure about 10’ by 20’, with a programs for Going-to-the-Sun Road family. They alighted at Haystack steeply arched roof that accentuates and for wilderness management will Creek. Dunbar was taking pho- their miniature scale. focus on the traffic problem. Travel tographs when he slipped and fell Unlike Hugh’s little white cabins, last summer was boosted by unusual into the creek, which runs through however, the Tiny Homes are brightly factors, including the 150th anniver- a culvert under the road. Dunbar colored. A sliding barn-style door in sary of Parks Canada, low gas prices, was carried through the culvert and the interior of each cabin separates and a robust economy. But increased washed over a cliff. He fell about a the sleeping area from the living area. traffic and congestion on the roads hundred feet to his death. Each cabin has a separate bath house will almost certainly be a permanent with sinks, showers, a toilet and a tub.

(Area of the Sprague Fire. Illustration by John Hagen)

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 5 Photo of Sperry Chalet, taken during better days. Upper right corner is view of the same building after the fire. (Photo courtesy of the Ray Djuff Collection.)

View of a Controlled burn on Upper Waterton Lake, conducted by Parks Canada, burning vegetation ahead of the fire’s front, preventing the fire from spreading south into Glacier Park Photo taken September 12, 2017. (Photo by Dan Rafla, Parks Canada)

Classic 1918 photo of Granite Park Chalet (courtesy of the Ray Djuff Collection.)

6 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail SPERRY BURNS ... but the historic structure may be rebuilt By Ray Djuff (Prince of Wales 1973-75, state, there was no doubt about the being ill-prepared and ill-informed ’78) future. “Rebuilding Sperry is one of about the hike, the return trip was my top priorities,” Zinke said in a a daunting thought. “I wasn’t sure As quickly as the Sprague forest fire news release from Glacier. “Today’s if I could ever do that [hike] again,” destroyed the dormitory, or “hotel,” announcement is the first step in that Soldano told the Great Falls Tribune. building at Sperry Chalet on August process.” The sentiment was support- “Then that thought was thrown in my 31, 2017, there was talk of rebuilding ed by both of Montana’s U.S. senators, face. I’d have to do it again.” the historically significant structure. Jon Tester and Steve Daines. The morning after the fire, Doug With the public evacuated from the Mitchell, newly appointed executive The fire that gutted Sperry Chalet was Sperry region, a group of highly skilled director of the Glacier National Park caused by a severe thunderstorm on firefighters was assigned to defend Conservancy, was talking with park August 10 that saw some 150 lightning the chalet. They did fuel reduction superintendent Jeff Mow about the strikes setting off several small blazes around the five structures in the area, next step. in Glacier. One was in the Sprague laid out an extensive line of hoses, put Creek drainage on Edwards Mountain, sprinklers on the chalet roof and set up The Conservancy quickly established east of Lake McDonald Lodge. a pump system. As well, the firefight- a $90,000 emergency fund and hired ers put protective wrap on exposed DCI+BCE Engineers wood and around the to come up with a As quickly as the Sprague forest fire destroyed bottoms of buildings stabilization plan for with decks. the damaged build- the dormitory, or “hotel,” building at Sperry ing. The Conservan- Chalet on August 31, 2017, there was talk of It was decided that it cy also pledged to buy rebuilding the structure. would be too un- supplies to do the wieldly to try to wrap stabilization work. the entire dormitory. To support this work, go to https:// The forest fire grew rapidly, from 10 Logistically, it is difficult to wrap a glacier.org/support-sperry-chalet/ or to 101 acres within days of its discov- building the size of the chalet, said write to the Conservancy at P.O. Box ery. It cut off access to Sperry Chalet Glacier fire information officer Diane 2749, Columbia Falls, MT 59912. along the trail from Lake McDonald, Sine. Each roll of the fire-resistant stranding chalet staff and 39 guests. material weighs about 100 pounds DCI+BCE Engineers is a Seattle-based The last guests to arrive at the hotel and the crew couldn’t get to the top of structural and civil engineering firm, was a group of five women, among the two-storey building. with offices in Missoula, Kalispell, them Khi Soldano, daughter of Black- Bozeman and Billings. It was consult- Sine said using a fire retardant gel also feet artist King Kuka (1946-2004). ed on repairs to Sperry Chalet after it presents difficulties, as it has to be was damaged by an avalanche in 2011. In face of the growing fire threat and maintained and hauled in buckets to after consultations with the National the site. “They felt that the sprinklers Superintendent Mow told the Mis- Park Service, chalet manager Renee were enough,” Glacier’s public informa- soulian newspaper that it was too Noffke closed the building and led the tion officer Diane Mann-Klager said. soon to know what the future holds staff and stranded guests to safety on for Sperry, but “this work represents Despite the best efforts of firefight- Friday, August 11. They hiked out via the first step in assessing the extent of ers to contain the Sprague fire in the Gunsight Pass, a 13.5-mile trek to Sun the damage to evaluate what future heavily wooded and steep sides of Ed- Road. actions might be possible.” ward Mountain, it continued to grow, For Soldano and her four hiking from about 500 acres on August 18 to For U.S. Secretary of the Interior partners, who had struggled over that 4,600 acres on September 1. Ryan Zinke, a native Montanan and same trail just two days before due to former U.S. representative for the

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 7 With the fire spreading unchecked and had gotten inside the building and Beth Dunagan of Whitefish lamented: causing dangerously poor air quality had set the interior alight. “My heart is breaking not just for my conditions in the valley, Lake McDon- family, but for everyone who so dearly A “valiant stand” was made by the ald Lodge announced August 29 that it loved that chalet.” Dunagan, another firefighters, supported by three heli- was closing early for the season. It was member of the extended Luding fam- copters with water buckets, to save the originally supposed to close on Septem- ily and a former employee, recently structure, but they were unsuccessful. ber 27. The move was out of concern wrote a book, Welcome to Sperry Cha- The 103-year-old Sperry dorm, a na- for employee safety – because they let, about the place. tional historic landmark, was gutted. work and live onsite they have a longer- Fortunately, the rest of the buildings Dunagan spent all of her childhood duration exposure to the air conditions. survived the fiery onslaught (including summers and five years as an adult at Four days later, Sun Road was closed the notorious “million dollar toilet,” the backcountry lodge. “There’s no from Apgar to Logan Pass. Everyone discussed below). place on earth I’d rather be,” she told around Lake McDonald was ordered the Daily Inter Lake newspaper shortly The public reaction when photos of to leave. after her book was published in 2013. the burning building and the remain- Dunagan’s book is as much a tribute to the chalet as it is to the Luding Despite the best efforts of firefighters to contain family, which has operated Sperry the Sprague fire in the heavily wooded and steep Chalet since 1954. sides of Edward Mountain, it continued to grow, Sperry became a tourist destination in the early 1900s. The Great Northern from about 500 acres on August 18 to 4,600 Railway paid Dr. Lyman Sperry to acres on September 1. have students from the University of Minnesota build a trail from Lake Mc- Donald to his namesake glacier, which Firefighters moved in to protect Lake ing rock walls of the chalet were he’d earlier located. McDonald Lodge and neighbouring published was shock and grief. “I am buildings. Pumps were put in Snyder utterly devastated that our beloved Upon the Glacier region being desig- Creek and Lake McDonald, hoses were Chalet has been lost to the Sprague nated a national park in 1910, Great laid out and an extensive “Rain for fire,” Geneva Warrington, a member of Northern president Louis Hill com- Rent” sprinkler system was used to in- the extended Luding family which op- missioned a series of camps to be built crease the humidity around the lodge. erates the chalet, posted on Instagram. for tourists on saddle horse trips. A tent camp near the present Sperry The fire was now on Sperry Chalets’ “Each and every person who was lucky Chalet opened in 1911. doorsteps. “The fire team . . . worked enough to spend time here knows tirelessly to contain this fire and pro- what a magical place it was, and The first buildings appeared the fol- tect structures and infrastructure,” said what a terrible loss this is,” Geneva lowing summer, 1912: two log cabins Superintendent Mow. wrote. “My family has been incredibly and a 22- by 80-foot dining room/ blessed to get to share this magnificent kitchen complex made of locally quar- While battling an “ember shower” place with the public for the past 63 ried stone and lodgepole pine. The from the approaching fire, the fire- years, and we are so very sad it has kitchen/dining room opened for busi- fighters noticed puffs of smoke under ended in this way.” ness in 1913. an eave on the Sperry Chalet dorm. It was approximately 6:10 p.m. on Kevin Warrington, Sperry Chalet That same summer, work started on Thursday, August 31. co-ordinator for Belton Chalets, Inc., the 32- by 90-foot dormitory build- which operates the chalets, called ing, again made of rock and wood. It The firefighters sprayed the area with the loss “a sad day.” “I have been was finished and opened in the sum- water because they thought there was around Sperry for my entire life and mer of 1914. The two-storey dorm an ember on the roof. Almost in- I have never expected to see anything had 23 guest rooms. stantaneously, a window in the dorm like this,” Kevin said. “It has been a broke out and flames were licking at Both stone-and-wood structures at privilege to share Sperry with the great the eaves. From a photo taken of the Sperry were designed by Spokane, many people that love it.” event, it would appear that embers Washington, architect Kirtland Cut- ter. He also created the plans for Lake 8 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail McDonald Lodge, which opened that By the 1950s the Great Northern they’ll take home with them that will same year, 1914. Railway was looking to get out of the last forever.” hospitality industry in Glacier. In Situated on the edge of a cirque 6,500 She achieved her goal, turning Sperry 1953 it sold the Sperry buildings to feet above sea level, the chalets offer into a spot where tourists champed at the National Park Service for $1. a fantastic view of the surrounding the bit to make a reservation for the mountains and down to Lake Mc- While other chalet colonies the rail- following year. Openings were hard to Donald. The hike from the lake to way had built were razed due to lack find during the short, 60-day summer the chalets is a rigorous 6.7 miles, of use, Sperry got a reprieve. In 1954, season in which it operated. gaining 3,300 feet in elevation. the Park Service leased the operation That reputation was maintained by to Ross and Kathleen (Kay) Luding. Sperry Chalets were a popular destina- Kay’s son Lanny Luding and other It was the beginning of a six-decade- tion for anyone wanting to visit the generations of the extended family fol- long revival of the complex. The Lud- nearby glacier, and a welcome stop for lowing her death. It has sparked the ing family started and maintained new tourists on saddle horse trips. During push to rebuild the fire-ravaged Sperry traditions at the fabled site, so remote the Great Northern era, fresh bread Chalet dorm building. that it is supplied by mule train arriv- and pastries were made daily, served als each week. When Doug Mitchell, who had only at mealtimes by waitresses in uniform. taken on the top job at the Glacier Each bedroom had metal beds with Kay Luding, a sprite of a woman with Conservancy six weeks before, heard springs and mattresses, a sink with boundless enthusiasm and a welcom- the news of the Sperry fire, he said: cold running water, and chamber ing smile, became the heart of Sperry. “This puts all hands on deck. We will pots so guests wouldn’t have to go the In her book about Sperry Chalet, Beth marshal the troops and do what we outhouse during the night. Lighting Dunagan said Kay Luding always put can to help. Our mission is to be here came from kerosene lamps. others first: “It doesn’t matter to me for the long run.” how many discomforts I have up here The creation of Going-to-the-Sun just to serve the public,” Kay Lud- The Conservancy’s immediate goal was Road, along with the Great Depres- ing said. “I couldn’t care less, because to raise $106,200 to cover the cost of sion, radically changed the nature I want our guests to have a memory of tourism in Glacier. More people drove themselves and fewer ventured on horse trips into the backcountry.

“My heart is breaking not just for my family, but for everyone who so dearly loved that chalet.” (Sperry photo courtesy of the National Park Service.)

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 9 the engineering study and stabilization ing, the Department of the Interior is created the so-called “million-dollar work. As of October 20, the “Sperry reviewing the options. toilet,” which garnered no end of Action Fund” had received $112,060 public criticism as a solution to Sperry’s In preparing the package, the Heritage in donations. The Park also received water-and-sanitation problems. Partnerships Program sought a copy of $18,500 in Park Service funding. the original blueprints for Sperry. The Elsewhere, Glacier’s staff is looking at With the Conservancy’s support, a Glacier Park Foundation’s historian the huge job of cleaning up some 30 team of engineers has visited the site Tessie Bundick located the blueprints miles of trails where the Sprague fire and is putting together a plan to sta- in the Minnesota Historical Society swept through the Lake McDonald bilize the rock walls of the fire-charred archive, and they were forwarded to area. It felled some 1,900 trees on the dorm so that they survive the winter. the Heritage Program. hiking and riding paths. A ten-man crew led by engineer Tom As fans of Glacier Park eagerly await Park spokesperson Lauren Alley said Beaudette arrived October 4 and news of the fate of what remains of the it’s possible that some popular routes, spent the next two weeks preparing Sperry dorm, and the rebuilding plan, such as the Mount Brown Lookout the structure. It took fifteen helicop- the Glacier Conservancy continues its trail, Snyder Lake trail and Sperry trail ter trips to bring 100 16-foot-long fundraising campaign. The effort is will be closed well into next year. The six-by-six-inch beams, 24 24-foot- reminiscent of the “Save the Chalets” Lincoln Lake and Lincoln Creek trails long six-by-six-inch beams and 24 campaign in the 1990s, after Sperry were among the most heavily affected sheets of three-quarter-inch plywood and Granite Park Chalets were closed by the fire, she said, with two bridges to Sperry. Each beam weighed 140 by the Park Service in 1993 due to damaged on Snyder Ridge. to 180 pounds, depending on length. substandard sewage and water systems The crew then faced an onslaught of Milder weather, rain and snow di- and inadequate life-safety provisions. winter-like weather. minished the fire, which at last report A citizen-initiated group, Save the before publication continued to “I am so pleased that the crew was Chalets, aimed to raise $1.2 million smoulder. It had burned more than able to complete the project despite to make necessary repairs at Sperry. 17,000 acres in the park. 12 inches of snow and freezing rain,” Congress stepped in to fund the work, park facility operations specialist along with upgrades John Lucke said in a statement. “I’m to the chalets, which particularly happy that we were able to reopened in 1999. do this with no injuries to anyone on The work restored the crew.” the buildings, which Meanwhile, the Heritage Partnerships had been added to Program at the National Park Service’s the National Register regional office in Denver, working of Historic Places in with Glacier personnel have come up 1977. The effort also with four proposals for the future of Sperry Chalet. To our understand- Diane Steele Sine worked at Many Glacier Hotel as a pantry girl and waitress 1980-1983. She has worked for the NPS as a seasonal rangerThe since Conservancy 1984 and currently quicklysupervises the inter- pretive division atestablished Many Glacier. a $90,000 emergency fund and hired DCI+BCE Engineers to come up with a stabilization plan for the damaged

building. (Sperry photo courtesy of the National Park Service.)

10 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Diane Steele Sine worked at Many Glacier Hotel as a pantry girl and waitress 1980-1983. She has worked for the NPS as a seasonal rangerA since Close 1984 and currently supervisesCall the interpretive at thedivision at ManyPrince Glacier. The Prince’s 90th birthday was nearly its last

No one could have imagined, when the Prince of Wales Hotel marked its 90th anniversary on July 25 this year, that only weeks later a forest fire would come uncomfortably close to making it the last birthday party for the building.

Aerial view: Courtesy Member of Parliament John Barlow. This photo was taken September 20, 2017.

By Ray Djuff hotel patrons in the lobby, with the toast August 30 in the Canadian section of the (Prince of Wales 1973-75, ’78) to be given at 7 p.m. Flathead Valley in British Columbia, took a large run eastward and was suddenly No one could have imagined, when the Everyone was having such a good time, th just across the Continental Divide from Prince of Wales Hotel marked its 90 and the crowd kept growing, that the Waterton Lakes National Park. anniversary on July 25 this year, that toast was put off to 7:30 p.m. By that only weeks later a forest fire would come time some of those attending had had Roads and hiking trails in Waterton uncomfortably close to making it the several Champagne cocktails and were near the Divide were closed on last birthday party for the building. feeling no pain. Sunday, September 3. The next day, The birthday celebration came about by residents and businesses in the townsite Rather than rehash my talk here, I invite chance. I was at the hotel in May giving of Waterton Park were told they you to check it out online (as well as a a historical orientation talk to staff, on should take precautions for a possible shortened version, with additional film behalf of the Glacier Park Foundation. evacuation alert as firefighters worked by Mike Quigley, a videographer for I asked manager Chris Caulfield what to contain the blaze in the Kishinena GPI), at the Glacier Park, Inc. Facebook was planned for this year’s anniversary. Creek region of B.C. page. Look under the videos section. th I pointed out that it would be the 90 On Tuesday, September 5, a voluntary Remember that some audience birthday, which prompted Caulfield to evacuation alert was issued by Parks members were truly in the spirit of the say it was a good reason for a celebration. Canada as the by now 11,000-acre occasion. When I said, “And lest we I volunteered to come up with ideas fire was poised to spread eastward into forget that’s why this hotel was built by for a possible party, and sent them to Waterton. “Forest conditions are super Alberta labour in a Canadian national Caulfield, who promptly forwarded them dry,” said Dennis Madsen, Waterton’s park for an American railway: so thirsty to Christie Pashby, content marketing resource conservation manager. “There’s U.S. citizens could skirt Prohibition,” a manager for Glacier Park Inc. nothing that’s going to put this fire out.” boozy cheer rose from the crowd. In due course, I was invited to attend Many people took heed of the warning. I ended my talk: “So I ask you to raise the hotel on its birthday to give a short, Waterton Park townsite was eerily quiet your glass and give a toast: to this hotel five-minute toast. Pashby had hoped the on Thursday, as firefighters cleared brush on its 90th birthday, to those who took toast would be during a 1920s-themed at the edge of town, and hoses were laid this remarkable hotel from idea to dinner in the dining room (I supplied out and connected to pumps installed reality, and to those who have created copies of old menus to inspire the on the shore of Upper Waterton Lake. chef), but a last-minute shakeup in the traditions and kept them thriving all kitchen saw the dinner spiked. Instead, these decades. We salute you!” “We have a perimeter all the way around the townsite that’s basically Champagne cocktails (based on a 1920s A little over six weeks later, the Kenow plumbed with sprinklers,” said Stephen recipe) and hors d’oeuvres were served to wildfire, which had been burning since

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 11 Cornelsen, Parks Canada incident The fire got “very close” to the Prince of GPI’s Cadrette visited the Prince of commander for the wildfire. “Within Wales Hotel and its outbuildings, which Wales Hotel (where the Peace Park that we have facility protection around firefighters kept doused with water concept was initiated), on September 18 critical infrastructure for the park.” and fire-retardant foam. The hotel’s to assess its condition in the wake of the location, surrounded by grassland fire. He said he was “totally amazed” to The evacuation order for the park came instead of forest, helped keep it safe. see how close the blaze came to the hotel. on Friday, September 8, as the Kenow “It was rolling across the grass, but forest fire expanded to over 19,000 “As we drove into the park you could our crews stretched out hand lines and acres and advanced into Waterton. The see how much vegetation had been managed to block it off there and keep smoke, which had been present all destroyed by the fire,” Cadrette said. it back from the hotel,” Calgary fire summer in Waterton due to forest fires “We drove up the driveway to the district chief Jeff Primrose said. elsewhere in B.C. and the United States, Prince of Wales and you could see where had by then become suffocatingly thick. Faced with relentless wind brought the fire had scorched both sides of the on by the blaze, the firefighters braved drive. From the parking lot, from that The management of the Prince of Wales smoke, ash and a shower of embers, famous vista, you could see just miles Hotel had anticipated the evacuation with some rolling up on the porch of the and miles of charred landscape.” and already said it was closing the hotel. “It was the most intense fire I’ve hotel early for the season. Some 1,800 Cadrette and a team of engineers held ever been involved with,” Primrose said. reservations were rebooked or rerouted. their collective breath as they entered “The way they protected the hotel the hotel. “There was no significant That same day, the Calgary Fire was outstanding,” said Ron Cadrette, smoke infiltration, which had been a big Department announced it was sending vice-president and general manager concern,” he said “And no sign of water 16 firefighters, two mechanics, two of Glacier Park, Inc., which owns and intrusion. None of that.” aerial trucks and an engine truck to operates the hotel. “I’m told there were Waterton. The volunteers were tasked Glacier Park, Inc. took out an ad in embers the size of baseballs that were with protecting the Prince of Wales the Calgary Herald newspaper several landing on the roof of the hotel.” At one Hotel, a national historic site, and its days later thanking the firefighters for point, the fire was 50 yards away. outbuildings: the powerhouse/laundry their “brave and tireless efforts. We look and staff dorms. Ultimately, the hotel was saved, as was forward to opening our doors next May townsite. Only the visitor center, slated for our 91st season.” The Calgary team, along with Waterton for replacement, was lost. It’s estimated firefighters and those from Coaldale and For a few days, that future was that as much as 30 per cent of Waterton District Emergency Services, prepared uncertain. It was a 90th year that will burned in the Kenow wildfire. The the hotel site for the coming fire. They go down in the hotel’s history as damage toll is still being assessed. set preventative burns in the tall grass remarkable. around the building. They also drenched While many reservations were cancelled As of October 3, the Kenow wildfire the hotel in water and fire retardant. due to the Kenow Fire, one of the most was classified as being under control and significant was the planned Peace Park The Kenow Fire made its run toward “being patrolled.” A Parks Canada news gathering of Canadian and American Waterton townsite the night of Sunday, release indicated that snowfall in excess Rotarians. It was only the second time September 10. It moved in parallel of eight inches on October 2 helped since Rotary Clubs inspired the creation lines on either side of a mountain range, bring the fire to heel, although “smoke of Waterton-Glacier International Peace flowing southeast down the Cameron may be visible for several weeks and Park in 1931 that the annual gathering and Blakiston Creek valleys. The fire hot spots could continue to smoulder has been cancelled. The first time was in along Blakiston Creek spilled out onto throughout the winter.” 1944, due to the Second World War. the prairie and eventually outside of Waterton. Parks Canada firefighters, supplemented Ultimately, the hotel was saved, as was by volunteers from departments across southern Alberta, worked through townsite. Only the visitor center, slated the night to protect residences and for replacement, was lost. It’s estimated businesses in the Waterton Park townsite. There were 135 personnel on that as much as 30 per cent of Waterton the ground, supplemented by nine air burned in the Kenow wildfire. tankers and 14 helicopters.

12 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail GLACIER’S MANY CHALETS Seven of the original nine groups now have been destroyed, in whole or in part. By Ray Djuff (Prince of Wales 1973-75, ’78) The fire that gutted the dormitory, or “hotel” building, at Sperry Chalet is a reminder that just five of the nine cha- let colonies commissioned by the Great Northern Railway remain in the Glacier region. And only three of those camps, as they were called, were intact before the Sprague forest fire on August 31 burned the Sperry dorm. Just Granite Park Chalet and Belton Chalet are now complete and undisturbed. Here’s a short look at the nine Great Northern chalet colonies. Goathaunt Chalet is not included as it was Two Medicine Chalet not built by the Great Northern and never owned by it. While the colonies are now referred to in the singu- lar (i.e., “Granite Park Chalet,” despite there being two buildings), I will use the original Great Northern termi- nology of “chalets,” plural. Two Medicine Chalets: Two of the original six cha- let buildings remain. The office/dining room/kitchen building, the largest on the site, is now referred to as a “Camp Store” and has been designated a national historic landmark. It was opened in 1914. Lesser known is the fact the residence for the crew that operates the Sinopah vessel on Two Medicine Lake is one of the original chalet cabins, completed in 1912. Since it was moved from its original site and renovated, it has not been earmarked for Cutbank Chalet any special historic status. The other chalet buildings were razed in May 1956. Cut Bank Chalets: Nothing remains of the four build- ings which once made up this complex, opened in 1912. They were closed from 1933 to 1936, during the Great Depression, reopened for one year, 1937, and then board- ed up and abandoned until they were dismantled by the Great Northern Railway during the winter of 1948-49. St. Mary Chalets: Opened along with the other chalet colonies in 1912, St. Mary Chalets was an important link between Red bus traffic on Highway 89 and saddle horse tours passing through Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. The colony was closed in 1933 due to the Depression, but Belton Chalet reopened as a private art school run by Winold Reiss from 1934 to 1937. It never reopened again and was razed by Hugh Black in the winter of 1942-43. All that remains today of the seven buildings at the site are remnants of (Photos from the Ray Djuff Collection.)

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 13 concrete-stone foundation walls and converted to staff accommodations. in the harsh winters and were removed. piers from the boat dock. The Heavens Peak forest fire in Au- Sperry was the second of the railway’s gust 1936 destroyed all but two of the high mountain chalet colonies, distin- Gunsight Chalets: The four log build- buildings. The surviving pair, Chalets guished by the use of local rock and ings comprising this complex opened in I and H, remain by Swiftcurrent Falls, wood in the construction. The Great 1912, on the shore of Gunsight Lake. on the entrance road to the hotel. One, Northern operated Sperry until 1953, There were two 18-foot-square cabins, Chalet H, is the residence for the hotel’s when the complex was turned over to a kitchen/dining room and a two-storey winter caretaker, the other staff accom- the NPS. The Luding family has had dormitory building. Gunsight was a modations. the leases to run the chalet group since key stop on saddle horse trips to and 1954. The hotel building at Sperry was from Sperry Chalets. An avalanche Granite Park Chalets: Opened on July gutted August 31 in the Sprague forest destroyed the chalets in March 1916 4, 1915, this complex consisted of a fire, with the wood burned but stone and they were not rebuilt by the Great dormitory building and main office/din- walls still standing. There is an effort to Northern. Nothing remains at the site ing room/kitchen/ hotel structure. It is see the dorm rebuilt. today. one of only two high mountain chalet groups, Sperry being the other. It was Belton Chalets: This colony, in West Going-to-the-Sun Chalets: Sun Camp operated by the Great Northern until Glacier, started as a single building was opened in 1912, and was the big- 1954, when it was turned over to the opened in 1910 and was expanded, gest and busiest chalet group in Gla- National Park Service. Unlike Sperry, with two cabins and an artist’s residence cier, a key crossroads for saddle horse Granite survived a fire threat in 1936. added in 1912, and a dormitory build- tours. The opening of Sun Road in The Heavens Peak blaze burned around ing opened in 1913. The artist’s resi- 1933 and the establishment of Rising the site, leaving the stone-and-wood dence was used by John Fery for several Sun Auto Cabins in 1940 foreshad- structures unscathed. The buildings summers. The colony operated inter- owed the demise of Sun Camp. It was have been leased since 1955, operated, mittently until being sold by the railway closed during the Second World War except for a short period, by the Luding in 1949. Service was again intermittent, and never reopened. The 10 remaining family, which also operates Sperry Cha- with various owners, until 1997, when buildings (one was destroyed years ear- lets. Granite Park was one of the sites of four of the five buildings (the artist’s lier in a fire) were razed in 1948. Old the “Night of the Grizzlies.” residence had earlier been sold sepa- pipes from the chalet group are all that rately), were acquired by Andy Baxter remain at Sun Point. Sperry Chalets: This chalet group and Cas Still, who had them renovated initially consisted of four buildings: two Many Glacier Chalets: Built at the foot to their former glory and reopened by 18-foot square cabins built in 1911, an of Mount Altyn in 1911, before Many 1999. They are now a popular attrac- office/kitchen dining room opened in Glacier Hotel was constructed, the tion in West Glacier, operated season- 1913, and a dormitory, or “hotel,” with location almost immediately doomed ally. The artist’s residence also remains, bedrooms for guests and staff, opened in one of the original nine cabins. An as a private dwelling. 1914. The cabins quickly deteriorated avalanche came off Altyn and flattened it. Following the opening of the hotel in 1915, the cabins eventually were

Going-to-the Sun Chalet

Gunsight Chalet

14 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Ray Kinley’s Memories of the Chalets

Ray Kinley first saw the Swiftcurrent Valley in 1913, two years prior to the building of Many Glacier Hotel. He returned in 1919 as a fishing guide, and then worked at the hotel from 1922 to 1977. Ray had vivid memories of the cha- lets, which were thriving in his first years in the Park. Chalet City Ray described the Many Glacier chalets as a “chalet city.” Photographs surely give the impression of a townsite on the flanks of Mt. Altyn. Ray says that when Chalet C was de- stroyed by an avalanche of snow, it looked “as Many Glacier Chalets if a giant’s foot had flattened it.” Puff and Blow The “Puff and Blow” was part of the Many Glacier chalet group, but wasn’t rented and wasn’t given a letter like the rental units. Originally, it was a studio for artists (it had a north window, to keep out shadows). Later it was used as a supply depot to load pack trains bound for Granite Park Chalet and also as a dance hall for the hotel staff. The “Puff and Blow” was destroyed by arson. Ray says that “a moron” annoyed women, who refused to dance with him, and that he burned the dance hall down in revenge. The Good Ship St. Mary Ray recalled “the good ship St. Mary” ferrying guests from St. Mary Chalets to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on Sun Point. At the Sun Point dock, they were met by a porter who hauled their luggage to the chalets on a little two-wheeled cart drawn by a St. Bernard dog. Ray recalled the extensive stonework at Going-to- the-Sun Chalets, Granite Park Chalets and Sperry Chalets. The other chalets were built mostly of wood. He described the Cut Bank Chalets as “a barn,” and it certainly looks that way in photo- graphs! (Note the log-and-stone framing along the roof at Cut Bank and other chalets, to keep the Saint Mary Chalet roofs from being blown away by high winds.) Ray lamented the razing of Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, St. Mary Chalets, and Cut Bank Chalets in the 1940s. He acknowledged that the buildings had deteriorated through harsh weather and disuse during World War Two, but thought that they could have been preserved. He grumbled at the policies of Jack Emmert, Glacier’s postwar superintendent, complaining that “every chance he got, he pounced on something to make it primitive!”

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 15 Photo of the Sprague Fire, taken on August 18 from Apgar. (Photo Rolf Larson.)

POWH water tower and flames - Courtesy Coaldale and District Emergency Services - this photo was taken 11:15 p.m. on September 11, 2017. It gives you some idea how intense and widespread the blaze was.

Calgary Fire Department pumper spraying water by POWH - Courtesy Parks Canada - This was taken September 9, 2017

16 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Photo of the Sprague Fire, taken on August 18 from Apgar. (Photo Rolf Larson.)

(Photo Rolf Larson.)

Sperry Chalet after the fire. Supports are already in place to support walls in preparation for reconstruction. (All Sperry photos courtesy of the National Park Service.)

Photo of the Sperry Chalet 2017 crew.

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 17 Camping at Granite Park in ‘67 A week before the Night of the Grizzlies

By Joe Blair (Glacier Park Lodge 1966-67, ’72) Four employees from Glacier Park Lodge – Jay Brain, Jere Clancy, John Evans, and I – spent the night camping near Granite Park Chalet one week before the attack. As far as I can tell, we camped very close to the spot where Julie Helgeson and Roy Ducat camped one week later. Two of us visited at the chalet until nearly dark. I remember singing songs with the ranger-led group that was spending the night at the chalet (“Kumbaya,” “Michael Row the Boat Ashore,” etc.). Just before we left, one of the staff pointed toward our campsite a quarter mile or so below and told the folks, “That’s usually where the grizzlies go on their way to the dump.” As we walked down to our camp I remember making a lot of noise in case there were bears around. John kept the fire going all night. I told him at the reunion in 2013 that he may have saved our lives by doing so. John responded, “The reason I kept the fire going was that I was freezing! I remember waking every hour on the hour to stoke the fire to keep warm.” Julie was a friend and the roommate of the girl I dated that summer. The mood was somber around the lodge. Most of us departed for home within a few weeks and didn’t do any more long overnight hikes or camping. By Jay Brain (Glacier Park Lodge 1966-69) When we arrived at the chalet we spent a little time on the porch. A young elk came up to the porch (the closest I had ever been to an elk). We were told by the chalet employees to head down the hill and find a spot to camp. Bears at or around the chalet were never mentioned nor was anything said about food or garbage being placed outside to draw bears for the chalet guests to see up close. As I remember, there were no specific campsites. You just picked a spot and settled in. We laid out sleep- ing bags and we had a fire that we sat around for quite a while. I woke up in the very early morning facing Heaven’s Peak. The sun was hitting the top of the peak and the moon was showing in the sky. It was so beautiful and so peaceful! I lay there just relishing the view and thinking that God had made Glacier exceptional and how lucky I was to be there. The hike out was a continuation of Glacier’s beauty. We had a fantastic time and were blissfully ignorant of many things. I was the Chief Room Clerk that year at the front desk. I think I went on duty at 5 or 6 am. A call came in early in the morning about the attack at Granite Park. There was not much information in that first call other than that a bear had attacked someone. I knew that Julie and Roy were there camping. I can’t remember if the next call was an update on the chalet attack or if it was about the attack at Trout Lake. I knew that Denise Huckle (one of my room clerks) was camping there that night with her friends. Again, there was no definite information about who was attacked or if there was a fatality. During the day, we received more and more information on both attacks, and none of the news was good. We finally got the names of the two girls who were mauled and killed. We employees were in shock. These were our coworkers and friends. The mood was very somber. Talk was subdued and I remember no laughter. There were many tears shed at the memorial service for Julie at Glacier Park Lodge.

18 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail The Night of the Grizzlies 50 years after the attacks of August 1967 By John Hagen (MGH 1970-80) The first recorded bear attack in vice was stretched thin. Two day Glacier was in 1939. John Daubney, before the Night of the Grizzlies, the Everything is clear in hindsight. I see a Many Glacier employee (later the Kalispell Daily Interlake published a this frequently as a lawyer, assessing mayor of St. Paul) was mauled while front-page story on “the Trout Lake accidents of all sorts. We see with hiking the Piegan Pass trail. (Daub- Grizzly” and its aggressiveness toward great clarity the miscalculations other ney recalled the attack in an early people. Mel Ruder went to Park people make – underestimating risk, edition of The Inside Trail.) Headquarters with the Daily Interlake setting wrong priorities, putting things in hand, and urged executives to act, off till another day. In the 1950s and’60s, the advent but they were preoccupied with a of lightweight footgear and camp- So it is in reflection on the fiftieth lightning storm that had just started ing gear promoted more hiking in anniversary of the deaths of two young women in Glacier Park. Rereading Jack Olsen’s famous book about the In the 1950s and’60s, the advent of lightweight tragedy, The Night of the Grizzlies, one footgear and camping gear promoted more hiking ponders anew the long succession of misjudgments that were made. Some in the Park. Bear encounters markedly increased. were inexcusable. Others are clear enough in hindsight, though not clear the Park. Bear encounters markedly 21 “smokes” in the Park. 1967 was a to the overworked actors in Glacier at increased. In 1956, a camper was bit- bad fire summer. the time. ten at Stoney Indian Pass. Nine more In previous weeks, however, rangers attacks followed in the next decade, For 57 years after it was founded in had seemed insouciant when people including the grievous mauling of 1910, Glacier had no verified case of a had complained about the bear. Olsen “Smitty” Parratt, the ten-year-old son human killed by a grizzly. There were, reports rangers saying, “That bear’s of a ranger, near Otokomi Lake in however, mysterious vanishings – the been chasing people all summer,” and 1960. Whitehead brothers (en route from “You shouldn’t be having any more Granite Park to Lake McDonald) in Then came the fateful summer of trouble. Your bear’s at Trout Lake, 1926, Dr. F.H. Lumley (hiking from 1967. Olsen tells the story vividly tearing up camps.” The Trout Lake Goat Haunt to Waterton) in 1934, in his book. It attracted great notice campsite looked to one hiker like “a and David Wilson (en route to Going- when it was serialized in Sports Illus- battlefield strewn with K rations. Tin to-the-Sun Mountain) in 1962. trated magazine in 1969. (I read those cans had been bitten in half and packs Bear management in the early years articles just before my first summer shredded and a pair of blue jeans was lax. Garbage systematically was working in Glacier, and I didn’t bring ripped into tatters and cans of corn dumped in the Park. An old-timer a sleeping bag, thinking no prudent and spaghetti punctured and drained.” person would camp there.) who transported garbage to a dump Meanwhile, at Granite Park, by long near Lake Sherburne once told me, Olsen’s account of the Trout Lake bear custom, garbage was being dumped “We’d shoot firecrackers off before un- is the most confounding part of the in a gully fifty yards from the cha- loading. Otherwise the bears would book. For many weeks, this aber- let. Bears came every evening to feed come and give us a hand.” Rangers rant animal acted aggressively toward on the garbage, to the delight of the would shoot bears with charges of people. It raided inholders’ lots at chalet guests. An employee would rock salt if they came looking for food Kelly’s Camp on Lake McDonald, cry, “They’re here! They’re here!” and in camps. raided the backcountry campground guests would pour out to watch the Bear encounters on the trails were rare. at Trout Lake, and repeatedly stalked “bear show.” Sometimes bears would In the Park’s early decades, backcoun- and shadowed people. Rangers failed fight over the garbage, to applause and try travel was conducted mostly on to intervene. cheers from the guests. horseback. The cavalcades were large Everything is clear in hindsight, and The bears would come and go by a and noisy, and the bears avoided them. one understands that the Park Ser- trail that led downhill to the Granite

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 19 Park campground, a few hundred The Night of the Grizzlies didn’t 1976. Kim Eberly and Jane Ammer- yards away. The chalet manager and bring immediate large-scale reforms. man (Lake McDonald employees) rangers who came to the chalet were Stephen Herrero’s Bear Attacks: Their on Divide Creek in 1980. Laurence uneasy about the situation. Olsen Causes and Avoidance states that Her- Gordon at Lake Elizabeth in 1980. asserts that “most of the rangers had rero saw 22 grizzlies feeding at a dump Charles Gibbs in the Elk Mountain filed protests, written or verbal, at one in Yellowstone Park in 1968 – a year area in 1987. Gary Goeden (a Swift- time or another, to one executive or after the tragedy in Glacier! Yellow- current employee) near Natahki Lake another,” without effect. stone had a long history of “feeding in 1987. John Petronyi near Granite shows,” like the one at Granite Park. Park Chalet in 1992. Craig Dahl (a Park executives, in fact, had ordered They came to an end after Sports Il- gearjammer) on Appistoki Creek in an incinerator installed at the chalet, lustrated serialized Olsen’s book and 1998. Matt Truszkowski, a truckdriv- but someone had ordered the wrong attracted national attention. er for Glacier Park, Inc., also vanished size. It was too small to burn the on Mt. Sinopah in 1997, and likely The book’s appearance did spur kitchen scraps, so the staff took to was a victim of “Chocolate Legs,” the reforms. The practice of dumping dumping them in the gully, as they grizzly that later killed Craig Dahl. had in years before. garbage was ended. Bearproof gar- bage containers were placed in front- Thanks be to God, Glacier has had Olsen depicts a situation which had country campgrounds, and elevated no further grizzly fatalities for 19 acquired its own momentum – the food racks and separated cooking and years. There have been relatively few “bear show” at Granite Park was well- sleeping areas were made standard in maulings. The development of bear known; visitors expected to see it; Park backcountry campgrounds. Trails and repellent – high-pressured red pepper executives had tried to deal with it; campgrounds were closed when bears spray – dramatically has influenced everyone was busy with other things; were found to be frequenting an area. the dynamics of hiking in Glacier. everyone had plausible deniability. And the Night of the Grizzlies ensued. Aggressive measures were taken to deal One reflects on those changed with bears habituated to people. Bears dynamics when rereading Herrero’s Olsen tells the story in heartbreaking Bear Attacks. It was fashion. The deaths Olsen tells the story in heartbreaking fashion. published in 1985, of Julie Helgeson before the develop- at Granite Park and The deaths of Julie Helgeson at Granite Park ment of the spray. of Michelle Koons and of Michelle Koons at Trout Lake are two of Herrero states: at Trout Lake are “Since climbing a two of the saddest the saddest episodes I’ve seen described. Julie tree offers reason- episodes I’ve seen worked in the laundry at Glacier Park Lodge. able protection from described. Most Michelle in the gift shop at Lake McDonald. grizzly bears, I keep Glacier alumni a sort of inventory find them so, the of available trees more poignantly, since Julie worked were trapped and transported, shot at while I am hiking … How far away is in the laundry at Glacier Park Lodge with non-lethal ammunition (rubber the nearest tree of acceptable height? and Michelle in the gift shop at Lake bullets, beanbags, cracker rounds), and … Do you have enough distance to McDonald. driven away with Karelian bear dogs beat the bear to the tree if necessary One reads the accounts and ponders (which use their agility to get behind a and then get your feet up beyond a how things might have ended up dif- bear and snap at its heels). bear’s reach?” ferently. Had the campers at Trout These measures were helpful, but by Those of us who hiked in Glacier Lake stayed awake and kept the fire no means completely effective. De- before the bear spray era vividly burning after the bear first appeared at spite all protective efforts, grizzly at- remember scanning trees as Herrero 3 AM, instead of going back to sleep! tacks continued. At least eight people describes. Especially after the Night Had the rescue party at the Granite were killed by grizzlies in Glacier after of the Grizzlies, we all felt a lively Park campground gone searching at 1967. sense of danger. We all had heard once for Julie, instead of retreating to stories of people (often close friends) the chalet! But the situation was cha- Park veterans remember all those tragedies. Mary Pat Mahoney in otic and full of danger and uncertain- (Continued on page 20 ty. Everything is clear in hindsight. the Swiftcurrent campground in

20 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Book Review Death & Survival in Glacier National Park By C.W. Guthrie & Dan and Ann Fagre

heroism to inspire readers. I humans. Many others are the result of particularly enjoyed reading drowning in the fast moving and cold about the tenacity and skill in- streams of Glacier. Other deaths have volved in Ted Porter’s self-res- occurred because vehicles have left the cue after falling into a crevasse road and the combined effects of grav- on Jackson Glacier. Despite ity and steep cliffs have delivered the breaking his back, Ted was able butcher’s bill. to climb out of the crevasse Most people, when they think of deaths and crawl back to the Gun- in Glacier, think in terms of grizzly bear sight Lake campground three attacks. Luckily, most grizzly-human miles away. Campers there encounters have not resulted in deaths. were able to summon rangers The ones that do, however, make for and Ted was helicoptered to sensational reading and remind us that the hospital in Kalispell. as humans in Glacier, we are in the mid- Reviewed by Mac Willemssen, (Swiftcur- My interest in the Ted Porter narrative dle of the food chain, not on the top. I rent 1967, Many Glacier 1968-79) comes not only from his heroism and worked in Glacier the summer of 1967. bravery, but also because of a “small As such, the events of the Night of the This book is a must-read for all of us world” fact: Ted’s father, David Porter, Grizzlies are on my mind whenever I who love Glacier National Park and have is my friend and was my roommate at am in the Park’s backcountry. I have enjoyed the adventures associated with Many Glacier Hotel in 1968 and 1969. been lucky; others not so much because hiking, climbing and exploring. The We have taken many hikes together, of any number of variables described in three authors are intimately acquainted along with doing various climbs in the book. with Glacier. Dan and Ann Fagre have Glacier. One of the hikes was in 1977, The book tells of the heroic and skilled spent years working in the Park as rang- when Ted was not even one year old responses of rangers, helicopter pilots ers. Dan is currently employed by the and I did my turn at carrying the Gerry United States Geological Survey. Not all the book is doom and gloom. There are tales of survival, rescues Death & Survival chronicles all the and heroism to inspire readers. I particularly enjoyed reading about the deaths which have occurred in Glacier tenacity and skill involved in Ted Porter’s self-rescue after falling into a since its founding in 1910 (through crevasse on Jackson Glacier. 2016). Sadly, the book; like technology and other ever-changing things; became baby backpack on the Highline with and medical personnel in effecting somewhat out of date as soon as it was Ted as the passenger. Our family, before remarkable rescues resulting in the published this past spring. Early this Ted’s accident, climbed Grinnell Point survival of gravely injured people. summer, a fatal accident occurred along with Ted and David, trying to follow Over the years private helicopters have Going-to-the-Sun Road at Haystack the Old Miner’s Trail which has now performed amazing missions of rescue. Creek. A gentleman walking by the virtually disappeared. The book vividly The book ends with the inspiring story creek on the mountain side of the road describes the survival instinct and skill of Two Bear Air, the rescue organization slipped, fell into the creek, was swept by of this amazing young man. started by Flathead County. Two Bear the current through the culvert under Air now has a state-of-the-art helicop- the road and then was killed by the big Deaths occur for all sorts of reasons in ter equipped with infrared cameras, a drop-off on the other side. Glacier. Many are a result of the inexo- moveable searchlight, a 3-D mapping rable force of gravity, whether involving Not all the book is doom and gloom. system and hoist system to lower rescu- falls of humans or falls of rocks onto There are tales of survival, rescues and ers and retrieve victims without landing.

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 21 Death and Survival (continued from page 19) Anyone who ventures into the back one-wheeled rescue cart up the Swift- come to my aid if I needed it. country of Glacier has respect for the current Pass trail to the Devil’s Elbow In summary, Death & Survival in rangers of the National Park Service and to retrieve and bring back an unfortu- Glacier National Park is a 299-page all they do to make us all safer. As the nate hiker who was hit in the head by reminder of the informal code of the book clearly points out, over the 107 a falling rock. The skill, strength and earliest rangers in describing their du- years of the Park’s existence the rangers conditioning of those responding rang- ties: “Protect the people from the Park, have saved countless people who have ers made me feel proud to be a citizen of the Park from the people and the people come into harm’s way. I have vivid a country where such individuals would from each other”. memories of watching rangers roll a big

(Photo from the Ray Djuff ... 50 years after (Continued from page 18) collection.)

who successfully had swarmed up trees grizzly startled at close range, and es- to escape aggressive bears. pecially a sow with cubs, is profoundly dangerous regardless of spray. It’s Nowadays climbing trees doesn’t enter crucial constantly to scan the terrain your mind, with bear spray holstered and to yell before rounding corners, on your belt. You no longer take a topping rises, and entering avalanche mental inventory of trees close enough chutes and other areas of brush. to reach and tall enough to escape a bear. Instead you focus on consider- Clean camps and eradication of gar- The Loop Trail Closure Sign ations of wind and visibility and time bage also are timeless lessons of 1967. to draw the spray. Bears habituated to human food are lethally dangerous to people and of A Glacier bear ranger once said that course to themselves. “bears know the difference between rangers and regular people. They Half a century later, we grieve the loss know the difference between rangers of Michelle and Julie and the other with guns and rangers without guns.” victims of bear attacks in Glacier. We Undoubtedly bears, for the most part, give thanks for bear spray and for have learned to be wary of pepper management practices that make the spray as well, and to avoid people Park more safe. And we recognize that more than they were apt to a few vigilance always is vital when we visit decades ago. Glacier’s backcountry, with its formi- dable bears. But vigilance and periodic yells are still essential to hiking in Glacier. A Granite Park Garbage Dump A Glacier bear ranger once said that “bears know the difference between rangers and regular people. They know the difference between rangers with guns and rangers without guns.” Undoubtedly bears ... have learned to be wary of pepper spray as well, and to avoid people more In the two incidents, Michele Koons and Julie Hegeson than they were apt to a few decades ago. were killed. RayDucat was seriously injured

22 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Book Review Glacier National Park, A Culmination of Giants By George Bristol

lessly to help make Texas ed grinding on these mountains and state parks better places to glaciers formed and did their sculpt- recreate. ing work as they moved slowly down these immense inclines. And the However, he never forgot glorious sights that thrill us today in Glacier and vacationed this dramatic landscape are the results there often. He even of all of great nature’s handiwork. became part owner of the Grouse Mountain Lodge The Blackfeet Nation (or South Pie- in Whitefish, Montana. gan), the powerful native Americans Glacier National Park, who are mostly associated with Gla- A Culmination of Giants cier Park, were also noted as a giant (University of Nevada in Mr. Bristol’s treatise for what they Press) is Mr. Bristol’s great did NOT do to this magical place. Reviewed by Tessie Bundick, (Many love letter to this magnificent natural They dominated the area for centuries Glacier 1972-73, ’76-80) wonder. and did not despoil the area while guarding the mountains and passes The first “giant” was Mother Na- Texan George Bristol accepted a trail to ward off invading tribes and to ture herself. The author discusses crew job in 1961 in Glacier National protect their bison hunting grounds the action in and around a shallow Park, Montana. This young man was located on the prairies leading up to sea that covered what is now Gla- hired on for the next summer also the “Backbone of the World”. and these two seasonal employments cier (and thousands of other square The encroachment of other native set a course for his life. For Mr. miles). These waters pulled sand tribes, however, paled in comparison to that of the European invasion. George Bristol extols the splendid attractions of In 1886 or 87, trains were mak- Glacier National Park with unbridled enthusiasm. ing their way across the plains and the third giant, James J. Hill of the Great Northern Railway, found the Bristol, like many of us, fell in love and stone down to form sediments best route from St. Paul to Seattle. with this northern Rocky Mountain into hardened layers to be seen today His railroad skirted what was to paradise and much to our benefit, he in Glacier’s mountains, especially become Glacier Park. In the mean- never got over it. those above the timberline. Even- tually, after 700 million years, the time, prophets like Frederick Law He went on to an illustrious career earth stirred, a plate collision ensued Olmstead, the designer of New in politics, both in Texas and on the and these sediment layers rose up York’s Central Park, visited the area national level, and in business. He through the surface thrusting them- that was to become Yosemite Park in served on the National Park Founda- selves over newer formations. California in 1864. He developed a tion Board, raising corporate funds plan for parks in America devoted to to aid Americans find better connec- These geological striations climbed the benefits that these special places tions to their parks. He worked tire- ever higher and then various ice ages, would bestow on all citizens who warming spells, wind and water start-

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 23 travelled to them. He also insisted to start organizing this new and National Park Service Director that these lands be preserved for exciting venture. He used his own Conrad Wirth’s vision took the future generations. wealth to build roads and influence national parks into the modern era. people. He utilized women’s clubs His Mission 66 ten year plan called Another very important figure in the and other enthusiasts to get natural for new roads and repairs, water and history of our parks is John Muir who areas named as national parks and, sewage upgrades, new and expanded advocated exhaustively in the conser- in Glacier, and he planted the idea campgrounds, trails, bathrooms and vation movement. He was, in turn, for the building of the magnificent visitor centers and on and on, to be very influential on that great lover of Going to the Sun Highway which completed in 1966 in anticipation nature and promoter of the wonders bisected the continental divide. It of a rush of tourists travelling on of the natural landscapes of the Unit- President Eisenhower’s new interstate His well-researched book recognizes that the highway system. preservation of this great mountainous land did George Bristol extols the splendid attractions of Glacier National Park not just happen. with unbridled enthusiasm. His well-researched book recognizes ed States, President Teddy Roosevelt. was Mather who was very instru- that the preservation of this great Other significant leaders in the thrust mental in establishing the National mountainous land did not just to preserve scenic splendors in our Park Service on August 25, 1916. happen. Many people worked very country were George Bird Grinnell, A government program that had an hard, many times with formidable who was a major figure in promoting enormous influence on the fortunes obstacles, so that we can truly revel the preservation of the area to be- of Glacier Park was the Civilian in the awe-inspiring magnificence today. His book honors these brave Many people worked very hard, many times and visionary ”giants”, these men with formidable obstacles, so that we can truly and women, as much as it honors our precious Glacier Park. revel in the awe-inspiring magnificence today. The book ends with a very interest- ing report of the visit of Franklin come Glacier, and Louis Warren Hill, Conservation Corps, and to a lesser Roosevelt to Glacier on August 11, son of James J. Hill. Hill took over extent the Civilian Public Service 1934, complete with a copy of his the Great Northern and was instru- movement. The CCC was promoted speech, delivered from the Park, mental in getting Glacier named as a and endorsed by President Franklin praising the grandeur of his sur- national park in 1910. He built Roosevelt. Between 1933 and 1942, roundings and of all national parks grand hotels in the new American 3 million young men were recruited of America. playground and spent thousands to work in the great outdoors in shoring up the infrastructure. America. In Glacier, they fought fires, built roads, cleared brush, One of the most important mov- constructed buildings and did many ers and shakers of the national park other worthwhile tasks that had a movement was Stephen Mather. In lasting influence. These wonderful 1914, he was placed in a position youths were truly giants in the his- by Interior Secretary Franklin Lane tory of the Park.

[Bristol’s] book honors these brave and visionary ”giants”, these men and women, as much as it honors our precious Glacier Park. George Bristol

24 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail GPF’s Employee Orientation Project Talks and handbooks are presented at Park lodges Last year, the Glacier Park Founda- One surprise for me was their inter- renovation details. As a result, we tion (GPF) began giving historical est in the Blackfeet. I spent more started the presentation a tad earlier orientations to lodge employees time than I had anticipated explain- than anticipated, starting about 3:30 in Glacier and Waterton National ing various aspects of Blackfeet lore – p.m. rather than 4 p.m. as planned. Parks. The program was undertaken the tribes on both sides of the border, It was staged in the dining room, as in partnership with Glacier Park, some of their customs, their work at the St. Moritz Room is no more and Inc. (GPI) and Xanterra, the compa- the hotel, and so on. Learning that the Lucerne Room was in the midst nies which operate the lodges. the statue in the lobby was based on of last-minute renovations. a real person (Two Guns White Calf) GPF provides a handbook on the Staff I talked to after the presentation fascinated them. I left the front desk history of each lodge to all employ- told me my talk was enlightening. I manager with a three-inch novelty ees. It also sponsors a historian’s talk started with the “alligator in the An- copy of a buffalo nickel (which was to the staff at each lodge at the start nex” story (see the entry for 1970 in claimed to be the likeness of Two of the summer. the handbook on GPF’s web site!). It Guns) so that they could use it as an surprised everyone as none had heard In 2016, GPF gave handbooks and instructional item with visitors. it before. I’m sure that it will be presentations to the employees at the Lake McDonald Lodge repeated frequently to hotel visitors. Prince of Wales Hotel and at Glacier (By Mark Hufstetler) Park Lodge. This summer, hand- As has been the case at all the prop- books and presentations were added The Lake McDonald Lodge orienta- erties, I was warmly welcomed at for Lake McDonald Lodge, St. Mary tion went well! I think all involved Many Glacier by returning loca- Lodge, and Many Glacier Hotel. considered it a success. Attendance tion manager Eric Kendall and his (The handbooks are posted on GPF’s was strong. Nearly all the distributed second, Angel Esperanueva. Note web site, www.glacierparkfounda- handbooks were retained by their that Eric is the son of “Jammer Joe” tion.org). recipients. I think that is a good Kendall (after whom the coffee shop sign. There were good questions at Lake McDonald is named), so he Mark Hufstetler and Ray Djuff, during the presentation, and I had has long history in the park. professional historians and directors some excellent conversations after- of GPF, gave the talks at the lodges. Prince of Wales wards with individual employees. They also both visited Many Glacier (By Ray Djuff) Hotel just prior to the season to I also attended part of the National The session at the Prince of Wales assess renovation work there. Mark Park Service orientation that eve- Hotel went well. Senior staff, includ- and Ray provided this account of ning, and was pleased when the ing GPI’s General Manager Ron their talks and of the renovation. ranger who led it gave an extended Cadrette and location manager Chris and very strong public shout-out to Glacier Park Lodge Caulfield, welcomed me back and GPF’s Lake McDonald Lodge history (By Ray Djuff) were ready for my revised presenta- program and overall history work. I tion. I think they were pleasantly The orientation presentation to the enjoyed good side conversations with surprised by some new information staff on the evening of June 3 went location manager Bob Abrams and that wasn’t included in last year’s talk, well. I had a good one-on-one ses- with Xanterra’s General Manager for mostly stories about VIP visitors. sion with the bellmen and front-end Glacier, Marc Ducharme. staff the following day. A few of GPI has spent a load of money at Many Glacier Hotel the staff had arrived just the previ- the hotel, on new balconies with (By Ray Djuff) ous day. They hadn’t yet toured the taller railings, new lobby carpeting, building or seen the rooms, so I did When I visited Many Glacier Hotel all-new lobby furniture, and all-new a quick walk-about with them. for the orientations, the hotel was furniture and beds in the rooms. In buzzing with activity, finishing up the kitchen, all the wall surfaces have

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 25 been covered in stainless steel and and I went into the gift shop to move exploration of the St. Mary grounds. equipment has been put on rollers so as much product as we could out of It was quite exciting. The main that it can be moved to be cleaned. the way. It was raining from all sorts building is an impressive complex. of openings (electrical fixtures) in the It was enlightening to see all the On a very positive note, the food in ceiling, and we put buckets down to nooks and crannies, the “behind-the- the staff cafeteria is so much better catch some of the water. scenes” locations, and the basement than back in my day! The cafeteria, guest rooms. by the way, is now referred to as the A shutoff valve was found and the EDR (employee dining room). flood was stopped, but the water I offered a copy of Glacier from the kept dripping for an hour. There Inside Out as a sort of raffle prize in Following my presentation and was a lot of fuss and some temporary the course of my talk. This is some- a piece by the Royal Canadian mopping-up to be done. We all re- thing that Diane Sine does to main- Mounted Police, we had a minor tired about 10 p.m. and left further tain interest in Park Service presenta- emergency. A maintenance man cleanup until the next day. Most of tions. Diane holds draws throughout went to tighten a leaking fitting in the staff had left before the disaster her talks, and offers prizes to the first the women’s bathroom, on the sec- struck, and there was no desire to person to correctly answer questions, ond floor, but inadvertently caused haul people back at that hour to such as how many glaciers there are the pipe to break. This resulted in tackle the mess. in the park. (Note: The answer is water flooding the bathroom, then 26, up one from last year. New satel- oozing through the floor into the gift St. Mary Lodge lite imagery has shown that what had shop and into the basement, where it (By Ray Djuff) been thought to be just rocks beside puddled about an inch or so deep. I was welcomed by veteran manager one ice mass in fact was hiding ad- While initial efforts were being made Helen Roberts. This was the first ditional ice, increasing the total to 25 to control the flooding, a GPI trainer chance I’ve had to make a detailed acres, which qualifies it as a glacier.)

Historians’ Review of the Many Glacier Renovation Mark Hufstetler Mark observes, visited Many Gla- Mark [Hufstetler] ... was impressed by the “The new overhead cier Hotel shortly lobby lights are after the lodge was appearance and feel of the Many Glacier lobby really interesting, opened in early after the gift shop’s removal. He states, “It really and at least in June. He assessed feels like a different space, now ... larger and some ways they’re the remodeled gorgeous. They do lobby and the new more grand, lighter and more visually connected evoke the lanterns staircase. He to the hotel’s setting.” that were histori- states, “In short, I cally in the space, was extremely im- like a different space, now ... larger though rather im- pressed. The staircase itself is beauti- and more grand, lighter and more perfectly, I think. These are brighter ful, and an example of outstanding visually connected to the hotel’s set- and probably much more visually craftsmanship in its own right. The ting. It really made me realize what prominent. Visually, they’re going to construction workers were there a travesty it was to impose that gift be the first things many people no- when I visited, doing some final shop into the lobby space 60 years tice when they enter the lobby space, cleanup before opening the staircase ago. The southern end of the lobby and they almost overshadow the “to the public”. is a great place to sit and relax, now, more durable architectural features of the lobby, which I think is a little Mark also was impressed by the away from most foot traffic and with unfortunate.” appearance and feel of the Many lots of light and views out towards Glacier lobby after the gift shop’s the lake and mountains.” removal. He states, “It really feels 26 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Mark also remarks that the St. Mori- Ray Djuff also assessed the renova- new washrooms. As a result, the tz Room has also been thoroughly tion. He said of the staircase, “It is a stage in the Lucerne Room has been transformed, to the point where it beautiful structure, which I believe, removed and there’s now a sheetrock was hard for him to recall exactly adds markedly to the look of the wall at that end of the room. The loss how it looked before the renovation lobby. Seeing it in place, you real- of that ‘front’ space means that there work. “All in all, it looks quite nice; ize how much the gift shop intruded is no obvious ‘front’ to the room any- the new gift shop and Heidi’s spaces into the lobby of the hotel and cut more. It is not clear to what purpose are very pleasant places and the open off views of the mountains and lake the room will be put in the future. area will be a very nice place to sip to the south. The lobby feels a lot “I was meeting with Diane Sine of one’s morning coffee. It’s a func- brighter and airy with the gift shop the Park Service and some employees tional and attractive accommodation gone and the blocked windows re- when Glacier National Park Lodges’ for the many day visitors who stop at vealed. The staircase is as impressive president Marc Ducharme stopped the hotel, but don’t have reservations as I’d imagined.” by to say hello. He offered to show there. Now a large demographic, Ray adds, “The new lanterns have us some of the remodeled rooms in day visitors as a group almost didn’t been hung in the lobby. They look the hotel. He showed us an upscale exist when the hotel was designed.” great, a modern touch with a nod to room, with a higher quality bed, Mark continues, “I confess I don’t the original Oriental lanterns that higher thread count linens, iPod char- recall exactly what the as-built layout once hung in there. The original ger/clock/speaker, all new bedroom of the lake-level space was, but a orange lobby floor was evident. It’s furniture (era appropriate) and a re- minor issue is that one of the new neat to see these things, having pre- done bathroom. Wow, what a change staircases ends not all that far from viously only read about them.” from decades ago! He also showed us a blank wall, a standard room. requiring a sharp “The staircase project may not convince people “Besides all new car- U-turn unless one who doubted its value, but I think they will still peting throughout is heading for the be awed by how it enhances the look of the the building, all the new restrooms. rooms got new fur- I also think it lobby,” Ray stated .... “In fact, I’d say there’ll be nishings, mattresses would have been more seating than before, with impressive views and bathrooms that appropriate for previously blocked by the gift shop.” have been remod- the project to have eled and updated. included a feature I walked through of some sort at the location of the “The gift shop has also been moved the Annex, and the place, while still original fountain (between the two to the former St. Moritz Room and needing the attention of housekeep- spiral flights of stairs), though I can is more upscale in look than before,” ing and minor maintenance tweaks to understand the reasoning for not do- Ray continued. “While space is complete the renovations, looks good. ing that. about equal to or a bit smaller than Also, all the lobby furniture is new. ” “All in all, though, I’m really im- what had been, the layout and dis- Ray concludes, “The staircase project pressed with the work, both in plays are better (to my eye).” may not convince people who doubt- concept and in execution. The work “Heidi’s,” Ray notes, “has been ed its value, but I think they will still restored important aspects of the uprooted from near the doors to the be awed by how it enhances the look architect’s original design vision for lake and moved to a newly enclosed of the lobby. With the relocation of the lobby. It made both the lobby space by the lower level fireplace. It’s the gift shop, the amount of lobby and the lake level more appealing and much brighter than before, with bet- space is not impinged at all. In fact, user-friendly spaces, as well. With the ter lighting, and has a wider variety I’d say there’ll be more seating than completion of this project, the hotel of products available. before, with impressive views previ- as a whole probably looks and func- ously blocked by the gift shop.” tions better now than it has for many “About 20 feet of the length of the decades, and that’s a great thing! “ Lucerne Room has been taken for

The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 27 A Many Glacier Carol: The Twelve Days of Waiting A whimsical aspect of employment in Glacier Park (Illustration by John Hagen is hearing novel remarks from the public. Many Glacier waitress Jody Fales compiled a list of ques- tions and comments uttered in the dining room in 1979. She put them to the tune of “The Twelve Days of Christmas.” Here are the first and the final stanzas: On the 1st day of Waiting, my tables said to me: “When do the Glaciers go by?”

On the 2nd day of Waiting, my tables said to me: “Are you all voice majors?” AND … “When do the Glaciers go by?”

On the 3rd day of Waiting, my tables said to me: “When do the bears come down?” “Are you all voice majors?” AND … “When do the Glaciers go by?”

On the 12th day of Waiting, my tables said to me: “We’re all on a tour!” [1] “What does that flag mean?” [2] “Can we sit by the ocean?” [3] “What’s the antipasto?” “Is the trout fresh?” “Are you all Mormons?” [4] “Do you go to the same school?” “Do you work here?” “What’s the white stuff on the mountains?” “When do the bears come down?” “Are you all voice majors?” AND … “When do the Glaciers go by?”

1 This declaration (sung brightly!) was not music to the ears of waiters and waitresses, since the auto- matic tour gratuity was substantially less than the average individual tip. 2 This very reasonable inquiry referred to the large Swiss flag which was displayed on the front of the dining room’s fireplace chimney. The Swiss cross is Many Glacier’s insignia, reflecting its Alpine setting and its chalet-style architecture. 3 Swiftcurrent Lake, not easily mistaken for an ocean, with its dimensions of roughly a half-mile long and a quarter-mile wide. 4 This rather frequent inquiry was inspired by the cleancut appearance of the hotel staff. Glacier’s lodges had a conservative haircut code, which made its employees appear distinctive in the hirsute 1970s.

28 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Memories of the Bellhops’ Chalet

By Dick Schwab (Many Glacier Hotel fellow employees. Often we would stop at the dormitory 1947-52) showers on the way back, since there was There was a brisk walk to and from the no shower in the Chalet. Frequently The choicest place to live for any Park Chalet to the hotel, along the road bor- at the end of a shift we were soaked employee was the famous or infamous dering Swiftcurrent Lake. It was a most through with sweat because of the Bellhops’ Chalet, and many of my enjoyable walk during the fine days, and intense physical exertion of hauling load best memories of Glacier are centered sometimes it was exciting during the after load of heavy bags up several flights there. This was also called “Chalet terrible storms and winds sweeping out of stairs for considerable periods at a I” and was one of the two chalets that from the Swiftcurrent Valley to the west. time. There were no elevators for taking had survived the terrible 1936 forest guests and their luggage to their rooms. fire referred to earlier that had come During the worst of these gales white- capped waves would wash up close to roaring over from the west side of the Our light tan uniforms were sometimes the road and howling winds would Continental Divide and down the val- saturated, and our white shirts always throw bursts of heavy spray over it, ley, nearly taking out the hotel. were. At this time the nylon washable on the bridge over the falls especially. shirts had just come on the market, al- Chalet I is magnificently situated on a Sometimes it was like what I imagined though they were primitive and turned rocky outcropping just above Swift- being on the deck of a ship in heavy quite yellow after a month of nearly current Falls. The muffled roar of the weather at sea must have been. daily wear. Still, they were washable, falls beside the Chalet was pleasing and some of us simply wore them into to hear day and night. It was very I have always liked the violent weather the showers, washed them while they practical as well, for we could make as in Glacier, however frightening it can were still on us, took them off, rinsed much noise as we wished to without be. And so I generally enjoyed those them, wrung them out, and then carried disturbing anyone. Needless to say, windy dashes down the road, especially them flapping in the wind on a wire there were many, many parties be- at night when you could see the warm hanger to the Chalet. There they dried fore the fireplace there, and we often light of a window in the Chalet, as you and were tolerably clean for the next packed in a remarkable number of our braced yourself against the fierce gales and the ghostly white bursts of spray. day’s exertions. I Will Take Many Glacier to my Grave By Dan Manka (Many Glacier 1975) four of my daughters know that even Loft Mountain in Shenandoah Nation- in the dark, or with my eyes closed, al Park. I worked as a cook in Yellow- In 1975, I had the wonderful experi- or even when I am too tired late in the stone for three wonderful summers, ence of working as a second cook in the evening to rise up and go to bed, Dad is but I never have told anyone that I will kitchen at Many Glacier Hotel. I will remembering (with tears) fond times as take Shenandoah or the experience of never forget that opportunity. I enjoyed one who lived and worked at Many. living and working in Yellowstone to it so much. I usually tell others “ I my grave. On the other hand, I do not will take that experience to my grave”. My girls know that Dad cannot sing know how many times I have said that When I am old and feeble, when I lie in that Many Glacier song without cry- about Many Glacier. a hospital bed, when I am only slightly ing. There were too many good times responsive in a nursing home, if one of there. Too many mountains, lakes, Yes, girls, Dad is thinking about my dear daughters would speak to me glaciers, lodges, trails, and animals to “Gould, and Allen, and Mount Wilbur” about Swiftcurrent Lake, the Garden think about to get through those few as they “stand in majesty.” Oh, how Wall, Ian Tippet, John Hagen, George short lines about our special valley. the writer of that anthem was correct Bird Grinnell, or the Ptarmigan Wall, when he concluded, “In our hearts, O I like to tell folks that Many Glacier I am sure that I will smile as I rest my Many Glacier, you will always be!” So has a “world class view.” One cannot head on my pillow. true. It’s so true. I will never forget. fit it all in just one camera shot, even When I sit on my front porch in the with a fish-eye lens. What a thrill to be I remember receiving that envelope dark or when I sit in the rocker in my completely surrounded by mountains with a picture of Mount Gould and kitchen, there are many times that my one mile tall and know that you are the large words, “Glorious Glacier” banjo, fiddle, or accordion begin to only 12 miles from the flat prairies! from Ian Tippet. If the view of these talk. The Many Glacier anthem begins, mountains that God made for us here When I was just 16, I had the privilege “Hail to thee, O Many Glacier, in the is superb, what will Heaven be like? to work “Atop The Blue Ridge” on mountains tall . . .” and my wife and all The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 29 A Shutterbug at Logan Pass

By Mike Buck (Glacier Park entrances, directing the automobile Hot on its tail was a tourist, scream- Lodge; Gearjammer (1960-67; drivers to continue their journey, ing, “Stop! Stop! I want to take 2001-2007) as no space was available except for your picture! I want to take your the red buses. The driveways were picture!” The goat would occasion- It was a picture-perfect afternoon in clogged with vehicles, their drivers ally pause and stare at the dude, late July, 2003. I was on my layover hoping that someone would shortly undoubtedly thinking, “My mother at Logan Pass, with a nearly-full load vacate a spot. One gal bounded out told me there would be days like of tourist “dudes.” We were headed of a family auto like a gazelle, to this!” eastbound, on the afternoon portion aggressively claim a shortly-to-be-va- of the Glacier Park Lodge “Circle The goat would then continue on, cated location for her tribe. The sun Tour,” having begun our trip at the with the anxious tourist in hot was out, the birds were chirping, the eastern entrance hours before. pursuit. Soon the tourist cornered the animal at the far east end of the A mountain goat sauntered past, not less than parking lot’s driving lane. The dude was now being observed by countless ten feet in front of me. Hot on its tail was a people, as he sought to position the tourist, screaming, “Stop! Stop! I want to take creature. He wanted the sun’s rays your picture! I want to take your picture!” to strike the goat at just the proper angle. It seemed that the goat wanted only to display its southern Following our scheduled lunch break restroom-waits were short, passports exposure, while the tourist sought a at Lake McDonald Lodge, we had were being stamped in the interpre- different perspective. ascended the 7 percent grade on tative center, water fountains were Going-to-the-Sun Road. We had being slurped over, and the visitors The snap-shooting dude became so left the heat of the valley floor. We were inhaling the glories of Glacier focused on his quest that he failed to had traveled through the Garden Park. What, I thought, could top realize that he, more than the goat, Wall/Heaven’s Peak Tunnel, stopped that? was the center of attention. More at the Bird Woman Overlook, held photographs were being taken of I had tidied up my bus, discarded our breath when viewing the Triple him than of the goat itself! I think any refuse, and rearranged the blan- Arch Bridge that we would cross that he also did not realize that the kets (which were being used as seat- over, been awed by the Weeping animal could have grown aggravated insulators, since the top was open). I Wall, and viewed the “human goats” enough to conclude the episode now took my customary position on hundreds of feet above the roadway with a Biggest Billy Goat Gruff-style the front bumper, keeping a watch- on the Highline Trail Overlook. We charge. All ended well, however. The goat The goat would occasionally pause and stare at shortly jumped the stone barrier and the dude, undoubtedly thinking, “My mother told headed off toward Mount Pollock. me there would be days like this!” The tourist dude happily got his picture. My passengers re-boarded the bus and we departed for more were now being air-conditioned by ful eye on belongings and ready to stops on our trip. Best of all, I didn’t the gentle breezes at the 6,700-foot answer visitor inquiries. forget anybody! For the rest of the elevation at Logan Pass. Not a minute had passed when a tour, my passengers shared their The parking lot was packed with mountain goat sauntered past, not memories of that snap-shooting tourists. There were rangers at the less than ten feet in front of me. dude and the uncooperative goat.

30 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail Thanks to Our Generous Donors! This past year, the Glacier Park Foundation has received extremely generous support from many donors. The following people have made donations, independently of membership dues. Our heartfelt thanks to these donors (almost all of whom are lifetime members of the Foundation) for their abundant generosity! GPF remains an all-volunteer effort. Donations support the increasing cost of our publications and special projects such as the history handbooks we provide to current Park employees. Andrews, Tammy Gaither, Mike & Libba O’Connell, Tod Aycock, Millicent Geshell, Sylvia Pearson, Keith Baker, Bob & Chris Giacomin, Giovanni Pesonen, Ralph & Judith Baldwin, Wayne Goergen-Rood, Margie Pollard, Ralph Batson, Doug & Amanda Green, Steve & Jane Preston, Leanna & Bret Bauer, David & Susan Groves, Robert Rasmussen, Betty Beneman, David Hagale, John & Jes Renno, Gerd & Kathy Berg, Douglas Hagen, Gregory Richardson, Rex Berg, Steve Hagen, John Robertson, Jon Blair, Joe Hagener, Antoinette Schneider, Leo & Betty Bohan, John & Janet Hardy, Christopher & Merilyn (in Schoenbrun, David Bradley, Jr., J. Brooks memory of Gary Kahl) Schultz, Steven Brainard, Brad Harris, Doug Seymour, McNeil & Mary Bridegroom, Dick Hartman, Allen Shors, Andy & Heidi Brooks, Howard Hasty, Scott Shoup, Sue Ellen & David Brooksbank, Robin Heil, Brad Sine, Diane Brown, Cindy Hill, Douglas Singleton, Jim & Sara Brown, Mona Hilton, Fred Sitzmann, Tony Brushwood, Carol (in honor of Paul) Hoeft, Mike Slater, Bob Bundick, Tessie Hooper George Slater, John & Cathy Calwell, Chip Howard, Gayle Smith, Gary & Bernadine Carrier, Courtland Huffstetler, Mark Smith, Hervey Case, John & Patricia Jahnke, Brad Smith, Richard Doyle Chambers, Eve Jones, Dr. Gordon Sokoloff, Larry Chapman, David & Kimberly (in Kavanagh, Kristin Spiess, Timothy memory of Fred Willford) Keating, Marion Strobel & Hanson Cross, Brian Kelly, Jim Taylor, Rick & Mary Jane Chihara, Laura Kennedy, Beverly The K Foundation (Give MN) Crotts, Milt Kern, Steve Thompson, Dr. James Cumby, William Keyani, Judi Thornbury, Herbert Cunningham, Jeff Klosterman, Jim Turner, Rex Dahle, Tom & Carol Larson, Rolf (in memory of the Old U.S. Fund for Daisy (in memory of Dambowy, Rosella Ones) Gary Kahl) Derauf, Bruce & Judith Leach, Mike Umbreit, Terry Diecidue, Maria (in memory of Leo) Lee, Trisha Wiggins Vandeberg, Gerard Dobbertin, John & Barbara Levander, Kristen VanValkenburg, Carl DoBroka, John Lewis, Don Walker, Annette Donohue, Jim Manzer, David & Victoria Walker, James Duffy, Jim Mark, Rick Waller, Stephen Dutcher, Brian Marlette, Bea Watanabe, Mika (in memory of Gary Dyer, David & Patty (in memory of Marquardt, Steve Kahl) Yeung Bo Ming) McKeown, Anne Weaver, Steven & Priscilla Ek, Catherine (Kay) McKercher, Gary Wegner, Alan & Lynne Eliason, Lon (in memory of Kim Eliason) Meierding, Paul Willemssen, Mac & Judy Engh, Jim & Sharon Miller, Russel and Ellen Gill Willford, Voleta (in memory of Fred Evans, Greg & Sue Minor, Lee Willford) Evans, John & Dorothy Moench, Chris Winger, Tom Farr, Dan Moffat, John Winters, Jeanette Fennell, Jacquie & Scott Moore, Bob Wontorski, Pat & Ray Mann Fifield, Martha Morgan, Earl Woodbury, George & Carolyn Fondren, William & Sondra Morgan, Hugh Woods, Joe & Cathy Ford, Mike Mouw, Virginia Zygmond, Mary Jo Francis, Tom & Ellen Mulrooney, John Frissell, Susan The Inside Trail ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ 31 Diane Steele Sine worked at Many Glacier Hotel as a pantry girl and waitress 1980-1983. She has worked for the NPS as a seasonal ranger since 1984 and currently supervises the interpretive division at Many Glacier.

View of Prince of Wales Hotel as the Kenow Fire raced toward the Waterton Townsite and Prince of Wales Hotel, on the night of September 12, 2017. (Photo courtesy of Parks Canada.) JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law. (Panorama by Christine Baker)

32 ☐ Fall 2017 ☐ The Inside Trail