Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ■ Spring 2003 ■ Volume XVI, No. 1 Recession: The Melting of Glacier Park’s Glaciers

Explorers on Grinnell Glacier, circa 1925. (T. J. Hileman photo, courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society)

Also Inside: Stories of Sperry Glacier • Glacier Poetry • Black- ie Dillon to the Rescue • Mrs. Rhody’s Kitchen • Off-Trail Excur- sions with Gordon Edwards • I was Don Hummel’s P.R. Man • Toots’ Sweet Shop • “We Have Saved the Hotel” • I Saw Mi- chelle Smile The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 1 Glacier Poetry Corner

CAMPSITE We have packed in to beargrass country. The beargrass is in bloom. We share with the feathered and furry An outdoor living room.

Sundown here comes early. It will soon be chilly and damp In this mountain surrounded valley Where we have set up camp.

On the trail all day, we are weary. Night is about to begin. The silence here is eerie As darkness settles in.

— Elsie Williams (circa 1950)

(Illustration by Tessie Bundick)

Glacier Park Foundation Einar Hanson, First Vice President P.O. Box 15641 Carol Dahle, Vice President - Member- Minneapolis, MN 55415 ship www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary The Inside Trail takes its Tessie Bundick, Historian name from the famous old Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer trail which connected Gla- Tessie Bundick The Glacier Park Foundation Laura Chihara was formed by Glacier Park em- cier Park Lodge with the Janet Eisner Cornish ployees and visitors who have a vanished chalets at Two Carol Repulski Dahle deep love for this special place. Medicine, Cut Bank, and St. The Foundation is commited Joyce Daugaard Mary. The name thus em- Glen Elvig both to the importance of wilder- David Gilbertson ness preservation and to the phasizes the publication’s John Hagen importance of places like Glacier focus on the lore and history as classrooms where people Einar Hanson can experience wilderness in of Glacier National Park. Paul Hoff intense meaningful ways, learn- We invite submission of Mark Hufstetler ing not only a love for the land, historical, scientific, or anec- Jeff Kuhn but also a respect that nurtures Linda Young Kuhn the skills necessary to preserve dotal articles, commentary, Rolf Larson that land. The Foundation has a poetry, or artwork for publi- Leroy Lott special interest in Glacier Park’s cation in future issues. Greg Notess history, traditions and visitor Mac Willemssen facilities.

2 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Glacier Bulletin Board The Inside Trail welcomes not only articles, but also brief letters, anecdotes and photos. Here are some that were sent to us recently. Siamese Twins at the Roller Rink I worked in 1947 at the front desk at the Entrance Lodge as the relief clerk (switchboard, cashier, and tele- graph girl). Thinking back on that summer brings back a treasury of wonderful memories and faces. Julia Wades-in-the-Water, wife of the Blackfeet chief Wades-in-the-Water, made me a pair of moccasins. My friends then nicknamed me “Betsy Wades-through-the-Lobby.” In August at East Glacier during that era there was always a costume party. It was held at the Roller Rink (now a restaurant). Two employees from the Entrance, Bill Treacy and Frank Delaney, came to the party as Siamese twins. They had built an outhouse on rollers with a lot of funny comments on it. Their antics were hilarious. The funniest one was when one would go into the outhouse and the other was left hanging out the door. How many unforgettable moments, special people and friends there were! Elizabeth A. Roth (Entrance 1947, 59-60; Many Glacier, 1948, 58) More Memories of Terrie Stewart I was shocked to hear about Terrie Stewart’s death in the Fall Inside Trail. Little Mary Sunshine was one of my very favorite shows of all the years at Many G, and as many of you know, what made it so special was Terrie. The thoughts and memories of all the people in- volved in all those productions over the years still brings a warm glow to my heart, and people like Terrie are beyond words. I was so pleased to read about some of the highlights from the rest of her life and the thoughts she put together for the farewell. I was able to find this picture from Little Mary Sunshine as a re- membrance of Terrie. What a special woman. Roger L. Stephens (Assistant Manager and Mu- sical Director at Many Glacier, 1962-73)

(Photo courtesy of Roger L. Stephens)

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 3 RECESSION The Melting of Glacier Park’s Glaciers By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970-80) Glacier National Park’s magnifi- cent alpine glaciers are melting away. They may be gone com- pletely within a matter of decades. The shrinkage has been proceed- ing since about 1850. Short-term trends ebb and flow and vary from glacier to glacier, but the long-term trend is one of steady recession. The park now has 37 named glaciers. Their colorful names and dramatic appearance add much to the romance of Glacier’s trails – Old Sun looming high on the crags of Mt. Merritt, Sexton with its web of blue crevasses above the Siyeh Pass trail, Thunderbird, Weasel Collar, Two Ocean. This generation of glaciers is very young in geological terms. Most of them probably were formed in the “Little Ice Age,” a cool period which extended from about 1400 to 1850 A.D. The rest date back to the wooly mammoth era, per- haps 12,000 years ago. Glacier Park’s geology, of course, reflects far older and longer ice ages, dating back hundreds of Grinnell Glacier, circa 1930. (Howard Moon photo) thousands of years. Some of these involved vast glaciers thousands of feet thick, which scoured out the great U-shaped valleys of the park. They carved knife-edge aretes like the Garden Wall and the Pinnacle Wall, and sculpted

4 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail A 1936 hiking party on Grinnell Glacier. (Donald Wheeler photo) horns like Mt. Reynolds and Mt. 1930s, a meltwater pool formed warm. Many of the hottest years St. Nicholas. beside the ice and became Upper of the 20th century occurred in Grinnell Lake. the 1990s. Under these ther- At the end of the Little Ice Age, mal stresses, some landmarks (in there were about 150 glaciers in From about 1920 to 1945, the particular Grinnell Glacier) have what now is Glacier Park. The glaciers shrank very rapidly. been visibly melting away. extent of the ice at that time can During this period, Grinnell be measured in many cases by the and Sperry Glaciers both were Boulder Glacier, which once moraines or heaps of loose rock receding around 50 feet per year. loomed dramatically over Boulder pushed up by the glaciers. As the There was speculation that the Pass, has shrunk to a bedraggled climate warmed, the ice shrank glaciers would be gone by the year remnant. Other landmarks – The steadily back from the moraines. 2000. A huge boulder, “Elrod’s Salamander, Red Eagle, Logan, Rock” (named after the naturalist Carter – appear to have lost the When the park was established Morton Elrod) was near the foot characteristics of true glaciers in 1910, it had about 90 active of Grinnell Glacier in the 1920s, (plasticity, ice flow, and crevasses) glaciers. The biggest was Black- foot Glacier, including more than th three square miles of ice. By Many of the hottest years of the 20 century occurred 1939, this great ice sheet had split in the 1990s. Under these thermal stresses, some in half, with the western portion landmarks (in particular Grinnell Glacier) have been being renamed Jackson Glacier. visibly melting away. A similar split took place in but now lies a quarter mile away. and persist as stagnant ice masses. Grinnell Glacier, overlooking the The U.S. Geological Service (USGS) Swiftcurrent Valley. Its upper The 1960s and ‘70s were cooler decades when shrinkage slowed is intensively studying the glaciers and lower parts divided in about in the park. USGS ecologist Daniel 1926, with the upper mass being dramatically and some of the glaciers gained area. Recent Fagre has spent about twelve years of named The Salamander. As the research in Glacier. His team of re- lower portion receded during the years, however, have been very The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 5 Recession continued searchers coordinates with 18 Ameri- can universities and alpine scientists worldwide. Fagre’s team uses radar to measure the depth of glacial ice and to map the contours of the land beneath the glaciers. They analyze snow and ice and meltwater, study historical records, and gather precipitation and temperature data. Fagre and a colleague, Myrna Hall, have developed a computer model projecting the future of glaciers in the park. Their model offers two projections based on different cli- matic assumptions. One is a sort of “worst-case scenario” of rapid warm- ing caused in large part by pollution and deforestation It assumes that atmospheric carbon dioxide will double in the next thirty years (as predicted by the federal Environ- mental Protection Agency), and that temperatures will rise 2.5 degrees Centigrade in the next half-century. Using this projection, the park’s gla- ciers all would vanish by 2030. The second projection is a “best case “A curious ice formation, Blackfoot Glacier,” circa 1925. (T. J. scenario.” It assumes that there will Hileman photo, courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society) be no significant human-caused aerial photographs. Most of the gla- 1993 and 1998. increase in warming. Thus, it merely ciers have shrunk substantially since Grinnell Glacier seems to be reced- projects a continuation of the rate previous readings in 1966, 1979, ing at close to the rate of the “worst- of warming recorded from 1850- or 1993. A few have been stable or case scenario.” Its shrinkage rate 1990, since the end of the Little Ice have shown apparent increases, but is faster than that of most glaciers Age. Under this projection, melting several others appear to be on the because its terminus is submerged would proceed much more slowly, verge of extinction. and the glaciers would vanish by in the waters of Upper Grinnell about the year 2277. The 1998 data shows Boulder Gla- Lake. This causes the phenomenon cier, for instance, at a total area of of “calving,” where icebergs break The real course of history very 0.057 sq. km. (about 200’ x 200’). frequently into the lake. probably will fall between these Harris Glacier is even smaller, at On the other hand, Harrison Glacier projections. The most recent data 0.041 sq. km. Red Eagle Glacier ap- (the largest in the park) showed an is mixed. USGS has just released parently lost about a third of its mass apparent increase in size from 1.06 updated statistics on the size of the (from .15 to .108 sq. km.) between glaciers, based on an analysis of 1998 sq. km. in 1993 to 1.67 in 1998.

6 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Grinnell Glacier’s Recession: Comparative Photos

A comparison of Salamander and Grin- nell Glaciers, and Grinnell Lake in years 1938, 1981 and 1994. (Photos courtesy of US Geological Service and Bob Za- vadil)

may outlast much larger glaciers. Though the data and short-term trends are complicated, the long- term trend in Glacier is one of steady recession. Mountain glaciers are shrinking all over the world, which is strong evidence of an ongoing trend A comparison of Salamander and Grinnell Glaciers, to global warming. The extent to and Grinnell Lake in years 1994 and 2002. (Photo which human-caused “greenhouse courtesy of Bob Zavadil) gases” have driven this warming is uncertain. Such gases, however, very Sperry showed an apparent increase of several separate ice masses (Jack- probably have played a significant from .87 sq. km. in 1993 to .95 son Glacier has 15 glacierets besides role. The melting away of familiar in 1998. Pumpelly, Vulture, and its main body; Harrison has 13). landmarks in Glacier Park is a sober- Swiftcurrent also showed apparent Some of the glaciers are much more ing incentive to work for effective increases. resistant to melting because of their measures to counteract air pollution Some of these figures may reflect a topography. Gem and Piegan Gla- and deforestation. difference in accuracy of measure- ciers, for instance, sit in high north- ment from the time of previous ward-facing cirques which give them readings. Snow cover often makes shade and insulation. These glaciers, it difficult to measure glacial ice. though small, appear very stable, and Many of the glaciers actually consist

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 7 The Lore of Sperry Glacier

Great Northern Railway. Photo by T. J. Hileman (courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society) By John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970- the glacier and explore it. A dra- A similar episode ended tragically 80) matic rescue took place around in 1971. A group of skiers from Sperry Glacier is named for Dr. 1906, before Glacier became a na- Whitefish, Montana hiked up to Lyman B. Sperry, who played tional park. Frank Liebig, a Forest the glacier in mid-August, intend- a key role in creating the trail Service ranger, was patrolling the ing to ski down the long slopes of system in the McDonald Valley. trail near the glacier when people snow there. As they climbed the Sperry, a science professor, visited ran up to tell him that someone slopes, however, one of the party the area in 1895 and 1896. He had fallen into a crevasse. lost his footing. He slid several hundred feet and plunged into a took part in bushwhacks to Ava- Liebig scrambled out onto the 40-foot crevasse. lanche Lake, to the Garden Wall, glacier. In a deep crevasse, a and to the glacier that was later to woman lay unconscious some 30 Urgent calls for help from Sperry bear his name. feet down. Liebig roped himself Chalet brought a rescue team Sperry went to James J. Hill, the up and dropped into the chasm. to the site by helicopter within Great Northern Railway’s presi- The woman’s body was tightly about an hour. Two men made dent, to propose constructing trails wedged. In order to pull her a daring descent by rope, despite east of Lake McDonald. Sperry loose, Liebig had to call for an axe the danger that unstable ice and offered to recruit a team of college and chop himself footholds. At snow would collapse on them. students to build trails without last he wrenched her out of the They lifted the victim out of the pay. Hill agreed to transport them ice and fastened a rope around ice, but he was pronounced dead to Lake McDonald and to provide her waist. Then they both were at the scene. lifted from the crevasse. them with food and supplies. The victim’s name was Ron Mat- The woman never even In the summers of 1902 and thews. His death is poignant to 1903, Sperry brought groups of said thank you for getting me, because I met him on the students from the University of her out of the glacier. day of his fatal fall. I was hiking Minnesota. They laid a trail from down the trail from Sperry Chalet Lake McDonald up to the pres- The rescue had a comical after- when I encountered Matthews ent site of Sperry Chalets and on math. The victim was carried to and his companions hiking up. over Gunsight Pass, with a spur a nearby camp with a roaring fire. The skis crossed on their backs trail to Sperry Glacier. The pres- There, Liegib related, “[s]ome were striking. I recall their non- ent system of trails largely follows men and women filled her up chalance about the prospect of Sperry’s original route. all night with hot brandy until skiing the glacier. The episode she was glorious drunk. … The vividly impressed on me the Tourists promptly began to visit woman never even said thank you perilous nature of these shifting, for getting her out of the glacier.” fractured rivers of ice. 8 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Some Off-Trail Excursions in Glacier

by J. Gordon Edwards (National Park Service 1947; Author of “A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park”)

The Edwards crew - Gordon followed by Alice and Jane. This has been a common scene for many years during summers in Glacier. (Rolf Larson photo) Herb Alberding and I once last person there had painted the I’d like to repeat that trip. I think walked from Red Eagle Lake over floor white, then left the paint- it may have been almost the only Red Eagle Pass, down to Nyack brush in the white paint can, time that I was “lost” in the park, River, then up to Pitamakan Pass beside the door, and didn’t even even though I had a map. and down to Two Medicine Lake. lock the door. Come to think of it, I was lost The trails had not been used since We had a good night and found one other time. A student of World War Two, and probably some edible things under the mine drove up non-stop from haven’t been used again since cover in the middle of the floor. Southern California and wanted Herb and I went over them. But I recommend the trip! Herb had seven or eight keys be- We finally found a trail leading up a long ridge to the top cause the Park didn’t know which of a high ridge that extends west from Pitamakan Pass. would open the Upper Nyack Trail Crew Cabin. When we got Next day we found a trail sign in to go on a hike. I took him to into that area, the cabin indicated a place not indicated on the map. Waterton and up to Cameron on the 1936 topo map was not We finally found a trail leading Lake. We loaned him Alice’s there. A few hundred feet higher up a long ridge to the top of a backpack and sleeping bag. We we suddenly came upon a nice high ridge that extends west from Some Off-Trail Excursions cabin. We didn’t need a key. The Pitamakan Pass. What a relief!! continued on page 30.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 9 “We have saved the hotel!” The Adventures of Chief Engineer Ray Sleeger

By Ray Djuff (Prince of Wales But there’s now reason to believe sequent books about Glacier, I 1973-75, 78), co-author of “View a third person was involved in learned practically nothing more with a Room” (See www.farcoun- this exchange of telegrams – Ray about Ray Sleeger until the pub- trypress.com) Sleeger – and that the tone of the lication in 2001 of a book I co- “We have saved the hotel.” telegrams is not quite as we’ve authored with Chris Morrison of come to believe. Lethbridge, View With a Room “Why?” – Glacier’s Historic Hotels and I first ran across Ray Sleeger’s Chalets. It came out in May 2002 This exchange of cryptic telegrams name during research for my his- and included a capsule retelling of in September 1936 between tory book on the Prince of Wales Omar Ellis, manager of Many Hotel. From Great Northern re- Glacier Hotel, and Great North- cords in the archive of the Minne- ern Railway president William sota Historical Society, I learned P. Kenney is possibly the best Sleeger was the head of mainte- known correspondence in history nance for the Glacier Park Hotel of Glacier National Park. Company during the early to Ellis had just lived through the mid-1930s. His name shows up Heaven’s Peak forest fire. It was an on reports relating to the Prince inferno that, but for chance and of Wales Hotel and other facilities the heroics of hotel staff, would belonging to the hotel company. have destroyed Many Glacier. Other than that, I knew little Kenney, fed up with continued about him. Where’d he come hotel company losses during the from? How old was he when he Depression, let down his usual worked for the hotel company? reserve to send a telling, but flip- Was he married? Were there any Ray Sleeger in his National pant reply to Ellis’s boast. surviving relatives I might be able Guard uniform, circa 1926. At least that’s how the story goes. to track down to interview? (Photo courtesy of Ray Djuff) 10 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Despite further research for sub- the “We saved the Hotel-Why?” book, when all of a sudden I Great Northern Railway, which story, but I had to wait until just read the name of (Many Glacier had commissioned the hotel, was after Christmas for the first inkling bellhop) Richard Rohleder, of St. based in St. Paul and it may have of the discoveries yet to come. Paul. . . . Believe it or not, Rich- been through some connection ard is my godfather,” she wrote. with the railway that Sleeger got It started with an e-mail from the job. Martha Davidge of Wisconsin When Martha phoned Rohleder — a side story in itself. Martha Among Sleeger’s possessions was Ray Sleeger was born in 1895 and raised in St. Paul, an uncommon item: a camera. Minn. In 1914, at the age of 19, Sleeger went west, Photography was a relatively finding work as a timekeeper for the construction crew new hobby for the middle classes prior to the First World War. building Many Glacier Hotel. Few people owned cameras or and her husband, Geoff, subscribe to tell him about seeing his name took a lot of pictures. The least to the St. Paul Pioneer Press, and in the book, he urged her to expensive Kodak was the Auto- it happened that he picked up a contact me. I had just interviewed graphic Junior, at $23, almost copy one Sunday containing a re- Richard Rohleder for a second two weeks wages at a time when view of View With a Room. Geoff time that summer. the average worker made about instantly perked up, as Martha $2.50 a day. The next model up Martha’s e-mail started a raft of had been on a Glacier Park kick of sold for $41.50. Instead, people correspondence between Martha late. Although she’d never been to bought penny postcards when on and me – I to learn more about Glacier, her interest was sparked vacation if they wanted a photo- Ray Sleeger and she to learn more when she got to know her father’s graphic memento. If they wanted about Glacier. It was through cousin, Ruth Sleeger, after the a photo of themselves, they had it Martha’s generous sharing of death of her father four years prior. information and “I’m sure you recognize the photographs that Sleeger name,” Martha wrote to I learned, as the me, “Ruth’s dad was Ray Sleeger. saying goes, the rest . . . Ruth died from breast cancer of the story about this past October. She never mar- Ray Sleeger and the ried and never had kids, and with “We saved the hotel our common interest in family – Why?” telegrams. history, I ended up with her fam- Ray Sleeger was ily photo albums.” born in 1895 and Many of the photos in the Sleeger raised in St. Paul, albums were of Glacier, but un- Minn. In 1914, identified. Martha was anxious at the age of 19, to learn more about them and Sleeger went west, Glacier. Her husband knew View finding work as a With a Room would make a per- timekeeper for the fect Christmas present. Geoff was construction crew so anxious that Martha see the building Many book, he encouraged her to open Glacier Hotel. Cutting Ice for use in kitchen iceboxes, it Christmas Eve. probably at Two Medicine Lake. (Ray Sleeger photo) “I stayed up late reading your The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 11 Ramp used to transport logs harvested in the Grinnell Valley to the sawmill at the Many Glacier Hotel construction site, 1914. (Ray Sleeger photo) taken by a professional. clearings and tinsmiths working Military records show Sleeger was on the lobby fireplace. All in all, appointed a second lieutenant in Sleeger had a ready shutter finger a motley selection of men plying the Sixth Infantry of the Minne- and his photo albums provide a many trades. sota National Guard the follow- new look at the Many Glacier ing year. He was appointed a first Hotel construction project. Over- Sleeger remained on the job at lieutenant in 1923, and rose to view pictures from mountains least through to the completion captain in 1926. across Lake McDermott, as Swift- of the main hotel. His album current Lake was then known, contains no photos of the build- On the work front, Sleeger show the size of the camp and ing of Annex 2 in 1916/17, which settled into a job in the draft- the amount of lumber cut for the would appear to indicate he left ing/engineering department at hotel. A huge log on a ramp used during the construction hiatus, af- Great Northern’s headquarters to remove harvested timber from ter the opening of the main block on Jackson Street in St. Paul. The the lake leaves no doubt as to the of the hotel in July 1915. post-war period was a busy time physical effort needed for such for the department. The federal When the United States entered a construction project, where so government had returned the the First World War, like other much of the material (rocks and railways to private control after young men Ray Sleeger joined wood) was gathered locally. the First World War and railway the army National Guard. Again, executives were anxious to rebuild Then there are pictures of con- Sleeger recorded his time in uni- their passenger traffic business. struction workers, strapping men form on film. Before long, a new For Great Northern, there were and lean men; some appearing subject captured his eye: Cora new depots to be constructed to slightly exotic, possibly recent Green. There are a rash of photos replace older facilities (St. Paul immigrants who had not yet shed of their “courting” days, begin- Union Depot, 1919-20), hotels their “foreign” ways. There are ning in 1917, leading to their to be built (the Prince of Wales also loggers with axes in forest marriage in 1920.

12 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail in Waterton in 1926-27), and upgrades to the line, such as the new Cascade Tunnel (1927-29). Just how Sleeger came to be selected for the job of head of maintenance/chief engineer for the Glacier Park Hotel Company is not known. The position was senior and required someone who could work alone most of the time, without direct supervision. He was also required to oversee a staff ranging from a half-dozen in the winter to as many as 50 in the summer at more than a dozen locations, co-ordi- Lumber piled for use in the construction of nating all of their activities. He had to have a wide Many Glacier Hotel, 1914. (Ray Sleeger photo) range of abilities, handling electrical, mechanical and construction/repair tasks. Ray Sleeger was obviously a multi-talented and reasonably educated man. Sleeger was also an outgo- ing man, making and winning friends easily. Photos show him with numerous groups of friends picnick- ing and boating along the Mississippi River in St. Paul in the years prior to the war. His organizational and leadership abilities as a soldier would have been noted and the fact that he had past experience in Glacier Park with the hotels would also have helped in his selection. Construction of the hydroelectric power plant for Many Glacier, below Swiftcurrent Falls. Photos from 1916 show that Sleeger was among the (Ray Sleeger photo) chosen employees at the railway’s headquarters to wear Hudson Bay blanket-style outfits to represent Great Northern in the St. Paul Winter Carnival parade. His sister, Esther, also received an outfit. Sleeger must have made some impression with senior officials at Great Northern’s head office. Ray Sleeger took over the job of chief engineer in 1929 from William (Otto) Thompson, who had been with the hotel company for 15 years but was now being relieved. Thmpson was apparently not well, and died later that year, leaving a wife and two young adopted children as survivors. The Many Glacier construction camp, 1914. Sleeger, Cora and their daughter Ruth, who had just (Ray Sleeger photo) turned six, arrived in Midvale (now East Glacier) in April 1929. They stayed in the cabin usually used by the golf course, would be the Sleegers’ home. A Glacier Park Transport Company president Howard place of respite, but never far removed from Ray’s Hays and his family until the Thompsons vacated job. their residence. The duties of head of maintenance/chief engineer for For the next seven years, the third cabin, at the the hotel company were many and varied in 1929 north end of the row of houses in the bluff facing The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 13 Saved the Hotel continued . . . – much as they are today. The lation of a power generating sta- photo albums that Martha Da- tion for Many Glacier, Sleeger got vidge inherited from Ruth Sleeger personally involved. The process provide glimpses into the daily, was documented thoroughly in seasonal and unusual occurrences his photo album. (It’s possible that made up Ray Sleeger’s job. Great Northern head office staff requested the photo evidence: During the summer, much of similar photo records had been the work was delegated to on-site kept during construction of all staff, such as the young Cy Ste- the major hotels and related facili- venson at Many Glacier Hotel. ties.) Stevenson’s photo, and those of his many brothers and sisters, dot Winter is the hardest time of the the Sleeger albums. year on the hotels and chalets. Also for the permanent or hotel For other work, such as the instal- company year-round staff. This, again, is evident in the Sleeger photo albums. Snow drifting into and piling on hotel and cha- let roofs were constant problems. However, only the Glacier Park and Many Glacier ho- tels warranted Sleeger’s regular attention as they A “Glacier Park” outfit worn are the largest, most by Great Northern Railway expensive and most vital employees in the St. Paul Win- to operation of the ho- ter Carnival, circa 1916. (Ray tel company. Accessibil- Sleeger photo) ity was also a problem, so the remote facilities heavy work that went on for were usually ignored weeks. until late spring. The demands of the off-season Sleeger also faced winter gave way to different challenges chores unknown today. during the summer tourist season. At both Many Glacier It was when plans and prepara- and Glacier Park Ho- tions were made with hotel and tels, large supplies of railway company executives for ice were cut and stored upgrades and repairs in the fall during the winter to and spring. Snow drifted in the Grill (now the St. use in kitchen iceboxes Moritz Room) at Many Glacier, circa Ray Sleeger’s discussions and (non-electric refrig- 1930. (Ray Sleeger photo) decisions with the likes of hotel erators to you and me) general manager Adolph Aszmann 14 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail each summer. It was er, on Sunday, Aug. 30, a hot, dry wind fanned persistent and hid- den embers missed by the crews and the fire was quickly whipped up, spreading across the valley and climbing the Garden Wall. By then, it was out of control. The following evening, Monday, Aug. 31, Many Glacier Hotel night clerk Ray Kinley noticed “two ominous red spots, glowing like dragon eyes high on the Di- vide near Swiftcurrent Pass.” The fire had jumped the Garden Wall and was headed down the Swift- Clearing snow from the roof of Many Glacier Hotel. (Ray Sleeger current Valley toward the hotel, “a photo) racing sheet of flame.” All that night and through the and railway president William That spring, he’d been to the early morning of Sept. 1, hotel Kenney would have been a chance Mayo Clinic in Rochester, MN, staff manned hoses, dousing the to renew acquaintances from his for treatment of his high blood hotel, chalets and the Swiftcurrent time at Great Northern’s St. Paul pressure, which was causing Auto Cabins complex. The staff headquarters. The talks were problems with the function of his was able to save the hotel, but often detailed and protracted, for kidneys. He had barely recovered most of the auto cabins and all Sleeger’s time as chief engineer from surgery when he was back but two of the old Many Glacier was during the height of the De- in Glacier and on the job, weak chalets were lost in the blaze. The pression and railway officials were and, according to Ruth, the worse hotel was saved because of its reluctant to spend any more than for wear from the experience. The fireproof slate roof, the fact most necessary on maintenance; they demands of Sleeger’s job sapped trees near the building had previ- often tried to delay or defer work, his stamina and health. ously been cleared, providing a where possible. firebreak, and due to the dedica- Then came the Heaven’s Peak tion of the staff. The slower pace of summer was forest fire in August. The fire has also when Ray Sleeger and his been covered at length in previous I have not discovered what role, if family could entertain. After be- issues of The Inside Trail, espe- any, Ray Sleeger played in the sav- ing isolated much of the winter, cially in Rolf Larson’s insightful ing of Many Glacier Hotel. His the opportunity to have relatives article “Firestorm” (now posted job would have dictated his pres- and friends from St. Paul visit was on GPF’s Web site) so I won’t ence, but it’s possible he might welcomed. While Ray couldn’t dwell on it at length here. have missed the fire due to its stray too far from the telephone, rapid progress. He was certainly Briefly, the fire was likely caused Ruth and Cora often took visitors there shortly afterwards, probably by a lightning strike Aug. 18 that through the park, sometimes on Sept. 1. Photographs in his album simmered for three days before saddle horse trips. show the still-smoldering destruc- smoke was spotted. Crews quickly We Saved the Hotel con- The summer of 1936, Ray Sleeger had it under control and mostly tinued on page 29. had been trying to take it easy. extinguished by Aug. 24. Howev- The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 15 Blackie Dillon to the Rescue by Bruce L. R. Smith (Many Glacier, 1956-57) Blackie Dillon was the most romantic character I had ever met. With his salt and pepper beard, his black cowboy hat, the leather vest and wran- gler chaps, he looked like a combination of Ernest Hemingway and Tommy Lee Jones as Captain Woodrow Call in Lonesome Dove. There was a certain sadness in his gray eyes which looked at you Blackie from under the wide-brimmed cowboy hat and Dillon caterpillar eyebrows. His eyes seemed sunk very deep Blackie Dillon with Many Glacier Hotel em- in the crinkly, sun-baked skin, as if to suggest a deep ployees, circa 1955. (Photo courtesy of Tom disappointment he wanted to conceal from strangers. Francis) They say he was once engaged to a wealthy Euro- pean woman who threw him to the winds because of remark now and then that showed you he’d been lis- his drinking. Another version was that the woman tening carefully. Everybody loved to talk to Blackie, was an Indian princess who froze to death in the to tell him their problems and get his approval or cruel winter storm that hit Montana in the last year wisdom - or just to be around him. of the war. The drinking only started then, and he “Blackie,” I said one afternoon. “I have something I vowed never to love another woman. Some said that want to discuss with you. It..um...concerns two of Blackie himself was part Indian - that his mother was your guys...and...well...Here’s the situation.” I had a Navajo. We all knew that he spoke several Indian the feeling I shouldn’t have started into the subject. It languages. There were so many stories about Blackie was painful for me and must have been for him, too. that your imagination raced whenever you saw him. But it was too late now. I plunged on, trying to be Blackie’s job when I knew him in the summers of tactful. I told him about the two rather rough-and- 1956 and 1957 was to handle the horses for the ready wrangler assistants (I did not mention their tourists at Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier Park, names) who had tried to buy whiskey. I told him I Montana. He directed a crew of wranglers, drifters, said no. “I assumed you wouldn’t want them drink- and adventure-seeking kids who helped him with ing, not during the day anyway. Was that right?” He the horses. He spent his winters in jail in Butte; he nodded. That was all. Didn’t even speak. It didn’t would go there after having a good drinking spree seem to surprise him or bother him particularly. He when the tourist season ended at Many Glacier. He was a tolerant man. Worldly. Generous with people. would be released from jail in the spring, have one Not given much to righteous indignation. more drinking spree, then would show up for his I didn’t elaborate on what had actually happened. duties at Glacier. He remained sober for the rest of Vince was a tall, powerful-looking cowboy. He had a the summer. I was a bartender that last summer, and sun-baked face but was very good-looking except for when he came into the bar we always gave him a a large scar across his check from his ear to his chin. chocolate milkshake the moment he sat down. I was He had come to the back door of the bar the previ- the newest bartender, having just turned twenty- ous afternoon with his sidekick, Taco, a short and one, which made you eligible for the job. When heavyset man who incongruously wore a battered business was slow, I’d sit down and chat with Black- old Homburg instead of a cowboy hat. ie. Not that he talked much: He mostly listened. But he would put in a carefully chosen and pithy “Hey, man,” Vince said. “You got a bottle? We got a sick friend. Headache, real bad headache. We need ◆ ◆ 16 Spring 2003 The Inside Trail somethin’ for it...bourbon, man.” I said I was sorry, I couldn’t sell to try to find a replacement. Mr. it. He was a very nice guy whom him the whiskey. Vince gave a Sielset looked at me gravely. I’ll call Fred Jones. He was a very look to Taco. Taco pulled out a serious-looking fellow with horn- “I never thought you were the wad of bills and started peeling rimmed glasses and a friendly kind to leave me in the middle of off tens. I shook my head and manner. Fortunately, he had a the summer.” I felt bad and must told Taco to put the money away. fun-loving streak and was very have blushed, for I could feel my Vince noticed that I had paused impressed by the fact that Many face burning. “Will you think it for a nano-second before answer- Glacier Hotel had three female over carefully before you decide to ing, and he had a contemptuous college-age employees to every do anything?” I promised I would. smile on his face as they walked college-age male employee. He off. He muttered something un- As it turned out, my father called had quite a prominent nose which der his breath to his pal, and they me later in the afternoon and told I tried to avoid looking at. both laughed. me to hang onto the job. He had “Well, Fred,” I said, “as it happens talked to the man who offered me The summer went along well I’m going to have to return to the job and there was no budget enough. I saw a few of Blackie’s Minnesota and –.” left and no job. The next day I wranglers with their horses from went to see Mr. Sielset and told “Please, Bruce,” he interrupted. time to time but didn’t see Vince him I had thought it over and “Call me Hose-Nose. My friends or Taco. Blackie came into the had decided I couldn’t leave him. call me Hose-Nose.” bar nearly every afternoon. To- He jumped up from his chair and ward the end of June, I began to Had I offended him? Looked at pumped my hand warmly. feel restless. I’d had an attractive his nose even though I tried not job offer in the Minnesota state “I knew I could count on you,” he to? No, he seemed quite sincere, government for that summer, and said. and I started again. “Well, ah, Hose-Nose, as I was saying. Un- I began to feel that I should’ve I didn’t feel so go good the next fortunately, I’m going to have to taken it. I was making no prog- day, when my dad called back and leave, but I’d like nothing better ress in impressing a certain young said that the Commissioner had woman I liked. I called my father and asked him to see if the posi- tion was still open. I also talked Blackie Dillon was the most romantic character I had ever confidentially to Blackie, asking met. With his salt and pepper beard, his black cowboy him what I should do. After a hat, the leather vest and wrangler chaps, he looked like long and tortured explanation of a combination of Ernest Hemingway and Tommy Lee the situation, I paused and waited Jones .... for Blackie’s answer. He looked at made a special effort to find the than to recommend you to take me with his sad, shrewd eyes, then funds and had a job for me after over my job.” He didn’t need looked down and made a new all. He was looking forward to much persuading, it seemed, once crease in his cowboy hat, and fi- seeing me the following Monday. he’d heard the ratio of girls to nally he returned his gaze to mine. guys on the staff. I wondered what Blackie would “You gotta do what you gotta do,” say to this but I supposed his My departure was set for the next said Blackie. I thought that pretty previous answer was still valid. Sunday afternoon by the train well summed up the matter. As luck would have it, one of my from the East Glacier station. I So I went to Mr. Lloyd Sielset, the friends had a cousin visiting him would get a ride to East Glacier hotel manager, and told him I was who was old enough to be a bar- with one of the “gear-jammers” considering leaving and wanted to tender and might be able to take who was scheduled to take one of give him notice, and I promised my job if I could talk him into The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 17 Blackie Dillon continued . . . the guests to East Glacier Sunday gear-jammers and the rest of them their departing colleague, who morning. Some friends wanted would be leveled a bit. looked composed, sober, and at to throw a party for me, and they ease the whole evening. He gave a In the planning of the party, the teamed up with a group of gear- hug and a kiss to each of the girls question had come up whether to jammers who had decided to have who came up to say goodbye. He invite Blackie and his crew. We a party for one of their guys who shook my hand, and put his arm could not invite Blackie because was also leaving. The movers and around my shoulder and wished there would be drinking, and the shakers decided to have the party me well. You couldn’t help liking temptation for him might be too at what was called the Half-Way the guy. He was a decent person much. Nobody could relax for House, an abandoned ranch about despite being rather full of him- worrying about Blackie, or so it half-way to Babb, the nearest self. was said. Perhaps his presence town. Babb was approximately would be intimidating. None Jerry was full of crackpot theo- twelve miles from the hotel, and of us had actually seen Blackie ries, though, that drove you crazy. the Half-Way House was about in the evening; no one, in fact, He had one notion about boxer five or six miles from the hotel. knew where he spent his evenings. shorts versus jockey-type shorts The gear-jammers’ role was key Probably alone in his cabin, it was that he kept harping on each time since they could use one of the assumed; for he certainly read a you saw him. He repeated it now, earnestly entreating me to follow A ghostly fog had swept in, covering the earth almost doctor’s orders. like a winter snow. “Twenty years from now would you want that guy operating on tour buses to transport the party lot. Perhaps he reflected on the you?” I said to Fred who was guests from the hotel to the Half- past and his lost princess. By a standing nearby. His eyes seemed Way House. We were, in general, similar logic, Blackie’s wranglers to roll around like marbles from jealous of the gear-jammers who could not be invited, either. Some too many beers, and he didn’t were usually a little older than the of them were known to be pretty catch the intended wit in my rest of us; they had their own cha- tough and hard-drinking, and remark. I’d had too many beers let instead of living in the employ- they could not be refused liquor if myself and felt a little sick to my ee dorm; and they were allowed they were invited. stomach. to have their own cars. The party The party several evenings later I went outside for fresh air and was mostly for the gear-jammer was going in full force; there threw up behind a mesquite who was leaving, with me added was much singing and dancing, bush. I felt better immediately. as something of an afterthought. shouting and loud talking, and It was a strange, almost eerie; Most of my friends, though upset of course a lot of drinking. It was night. A ghostly fog had swept at my leaving, were delighted hard to tell how much drinking in, covering the earth almost like at this particular gear-jammer’s was going on because some peo- a winter snow. This often hap- departure, because he was an ple pretended to be more drunk pened at night in the mountains extremely good-looking guy, intel- than they were, while others around Many Glacier. The Half- ligent, articulate—and, to boot, tried to appear more sober than Way House seemed to fade in was a med student. The girls were they were. I tried to enjoy myself and out of view as the fog bank all in love with him, and the other but somehow was not enjoying danced and drifted in the cool guys figured that with him gone, myself much. The gear-jammers air. I started to walk toward the the playing field between the were giving loud toasts for Jerry, 18 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Blackie Dillon continued . . . hill that looked like a large dark Way House had gotten noticeably fast, fast. Get in there!” He turned hump ahead of me, picking my louder; there were shouts and to me. “How’d you get here?” way carefully. Before long I had banging noises from the direction “With Fred Jones. His old truck.” climbed a little, and all of a sud- of the house. This brought me den the moon broke through the back to the moment, and I made “Check the house one more time. patch of fog. There was a clear- my way down the hill and back I think I got everybody. But ing that was dazzling: the black toward the noise, back into the check. For girls especially. Then sky, pin-pricked with bright stars fog. The fog would mysteriously get the hell out of here. I’m head- and the shining moon, looked lift here and there, and I then ing out.” He jumped into the bus, like a poor cover for a luminous moved quickly, only to be then which was already idling. The brightness that sparkled behind plunged back again into the gray gears ground and the bus jerked the blackness and threatened at wetness. The fog seemed to cling forward into the fog. any moment to burst through the to your clothes and to your skin. Fred appeared from somewhere dark shroud. In the night air, the I still couldn’t see the lights of the looking very sober and scared. mountains across the valley were house, and just headed toward “Fred, what –.” I didn’t even get almost close enough to touch. Yet the noise. Suddenly the house out my question. behind me the fog hung thickly was visible, all lit up like an ocean and smudged out everything. I liner in the fog. Only something “Blackie’s guys,” he said. was in an unusual split universe, was wrong. People seemed to be “Blackie’s? But they —” and I sat there entranced. I was running in all directions. overcome with nostalgia for the I came closer, hurrying now, and Glacier Park I’d soon be leaving. I Blackie Dillon continued on saw Jerry the gear-jammer stand- wanted to pray, but I’d gotten out page 31. ing near his bus shouting direc- of the habit and couldn’t find the tions, hurrying right words. people along It was then that I became con- like a general scious of the sound – it was ordering his coming, apparently, from the troops. fog-bank. What was it? A horse, I ran over to many horses – cowboys riding him. “Jerry, through the fog? Vaughn Monroe what’s this? and his ghost riders in the sky? What’s hap- The sounds died away. The fog pening?” muffled them, apparently, and they just sank into the wet sand. He pushed This was all very strange; for some me aside and reason I wasn’t curious enough to practically dwell on the sounds. My mind threw two was still caught up in the starry, girls who split heavens, and in what lay looked terri- ahead for my life. fied into the bus. “Okay, Then came other noises in the Blackie Dillon at Many Glacier Hotel, circa distance. The party at the Half- 1950. (Photo courtesy of Dolores Rose Bryce)

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 19 Mrs. Rhody’s Kitchen

Mrs. Rhody and her cooks in a Many Glacier Hotel staff photo, circa 1955. (Photo courtesy of By Delores Rose Bryce (Many Gla- a dessert – to the long bank of three or sometimes four hundred cier 1946, 50) ranges across the way. The ranges guests we served at a meal. were nearly always covered with Mrs. Rhody was queen of the The salad pantry was my area, large pots, pans, and roasters, kitchen. She presided over her where we squeezed crates of tended by their women “range wide domain from a corner oranges on a devilish machine riders,” as we called them. throne-desk where she planned whose electrical cone whirled menus and kept her recipe file. The “pearl divers” had their own around while we pressed each half In her starched white dress, white enclave, with steam rising from orange down. We regarded this nurse’s shoes, and white hairnet their primitive automatic dish- as liquid gold because of the ache over silver hair, she kept a sharp washers. The huge wooden trays in our arms and wrists it took to eye on her crew of summer col- of dishes and silver came out produce it. We chopped cabbage lege escapees and older cooks and properly scalded to be wiped and for cole slaw, sectioned grape- waitresses. The former were a stacked on shelves and in drawers fruit and avocado, quartered and constant source of pranks, the lat- that accommodated settings for requartered lettuce heads, and ter her serious backups. the The heart of gold peeped through occasionally as she pretended not to see the watermelon or pie leaving the kitchen in the laundry cart. It was a small price to pay for a relatively happy crew who both feared and adored her. Her throne was a high stool from which she could see the entire kitchen, from the girls turning out the day’s total of trail lunch Mrs. Rhody with 1946 Kitchen workers. (Photo courtesy boxes – a sandwich, a fruit and of Dolores Rose Bryce, at far right) 20 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail after each meal scrubbed down homemade, from the luscious accidentally dropped and hidden the counters and work tables until huckleberry to the dainty Bos- behind the counter. Life in the they were properly antiseptic by ton Cream pies, with cakes and salad pantry did have its tempta- Mrs. Rhody’s standards. puddings for variety. Occasion- tions and satisfactions. If caught, ally a stubborn piece of pie or we hoped Mrs. Rhody would Each meal when we finished the cake would not come out of the understand. salads, we would make up the pan in perfect shape, or would be plates of dessert. Everything was Mrs. Rhody and Edward R. Murrow By Michael Buck (Many Glacier bridge, above the flight deck of an for remembrance’s sake. (He, and Glacier Park Transport, 1960- aircraft carrier. the celebrity, made the request 68, 2001-02) of her – it was not the other way I was a part-time dishwasher in around.) It seems that Mrs. Rho- The photograph which illustrates the kitchen when not handling dy had been the cook in Murrow’s this article shows Mrs. Rhody in responsibilities as a houseman in college fraternity house, and that her 36th season in Glacier Park. the hotel. I was never quite sure he had not seen her since. With her is Edward R. Murrow, just who the “officers of the day” the famous World War II and were who could approach, let mid-century journalist. The time alone climb to Mrs. is 1960. The place is the veranda Rhody’s command outside the lobby at Many Gla- post. Occasionally she cier Hotel. The occasion is the would descend to the National Governors’ Conference, “draftee” level and di- hosted by the National Park Ser- rect her movements to vice and the State of Montana. the Dining Room and confirm that all was in Mrs. Rhody was a person of un- order. compromising quality in service, steadfast dedication to duty and During a meal at the unwavering commitment to her Governor’s Conference position. No one would dare, she strolled into the ever, to invade her domain, her Dining Room on just realm, her “sovereign state,” if not such a mission. One of working there. If you did and the journalists covering escaped, you did so only once, the dinner, Mr. Mur- and never did so again. She had row, caught sight of her created for her an elevated, glass- and did the unthink- enclosed perch at the end of the able – he trailed her kitchen. From there she would back into the kitchen. position herself behind a desk, There he asked if he and oversee the efficient operation could have a picture of of the fiefdom. It was like the them taken together, (Photo courtesy of Michael Buck)

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 21 I Was Don Hummel’s P.R. Man

Glacier Park Lodge employee photo, 1962. Don Hummel is uncharacteristically situated on the far left. John Dobbertin is on the far right. (photo courtesy of John Dobbertin) By John Dobbertin (Glacier Park up, or when they got here found out — mostly coeds. So two of them Lodge 1962-63) it was darn hard work and left.” and yours truly were elected to go see The Man Himself, Glacier Park, Summer of ’62 started out as a And so we went to East. Two of Inc. President Don Hummel. He real bummer. Wrapping up my us — yours truly and Doug Piper was most gracious, and the evening sophomore year at the University of — took employment with Glacier hours were eliminated. Michigan the good news was I had Park, Inc., and George drove the car been named editor of Gargoyle, the back to Michigan. Piper scrubbed It could not have been more than campus humor magazine. The bad pots & pans in the kitchen at East, two weeks after I started in the news: My summer job — it would preparing him for his future job laundry, and shortly after the laun- have been the third year — as a cub building nuclear power plants. dry revolt, that the public relations reporter for the Battle Creek Enquir- director for Glacier Park, Inc. was I started out in the laundry. It was a er & News (Battle Creek, Michigan) summarily fired for some major happy enough place to work. How- vanished in the depths of the Ken- infraction of the rules. Upon hearing ever, the hours grew longer every nedy Recession. this, I immediately made my second day. What did those housekeeping visit to Don Hummel’s office. What is a 19-year-old guy to do? people do with the endless hamper Well, load up a station wagon with loads of linen & towels??? Six days “I understand the public relations two fraternity brothers, a large tent, a week, eight full hours a day wasn’t position is now available,” I said. canoe, something to eat and drink cutting it. We were asked — for no “That is true,” Hummel said. “Well, and take off on the brand new additional pay — to return to the sir, I can do that job,” I said. Trans-Canada Highway. We headed laundry for evening hours. The issue for Banff & Jasper and the third week of June cruised down toward Glacier Park. Hummel looked me up and down, smiled and said: Whoa! Who are those two good “The job is yours.” looking ladies hitchhiking! Of course we gave them a lift. Turned really wasn’t about money ... it was I explained to him I was a journalism out they were coeds working for about our “free” time! And that’s major and had two summers’ experi- Glacier Park, Inc. where this ditty started: ence as a reporter, and several years before that working on a weekly teen “Hey, you guys should go on down “We work in the dark in Glacier page for the Battle Creek Enquirer to East (we soon learned this was Park For Hum-mel, Hum-mel, & News. code for Glacier Park Lodge) and H-U double M E-L!” you can work here for the summer,” Hummel looked me up and down, After about a week of this, there was the ladies told us ... adding: “A lot of smiled and said: “The job is yours.” a general rising of the laundry troops kids they hired either never showed 22 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Hummel’s P.R. Man, continued. . . . I telephoned home for some dress employees needed to improve and was a steady flow of news stories all shirts and suits, and the adventure Hummel agreed to a weekly newslet- datelined “Glacier Park.” All of them began. During the summer of ’62 I ter. So we started “PEN” or “Park moved in the western states — and spent a lot of time looking through Employee Newsletter.” We published several made the national wires. All old files, photos — all of the work every Tuesday. It wasn’t fancy, but of them were great publicity for the the Great Northern Railway had we made every attempt to keep it in- Glacier Park hotels. The convention done to attempt to keep the name teresting. In addition to items from coordinators also loved the publicity Glacier Park — and the lodges — in the hotels, we included a page of for their organizations. It was great the public eye. The summer was so what was happening in the world. It public relations working at its best. far gone, there wasn’t much I could was amazing how fast we all discon- Good publicity, happy customers! do to gear up the publicity. We did nected from world events with no One of the best parts of my job was all we could. television, radio or newspapers! when I traveled up to Many to work By the time I returned for the same Then we made it a point to connect on a convention, I stayed in one of job in ’63, I had taken the one with all convention coordinators the Crow’s Nest rooms way up-top course in public relations (one-half upon their arrival at their Glacier overlooking the main lobby. I also credit!) offered by the University of Park, Inc. headquarters hotel. First used the offices (and typewriter) in Michigan. The presenter was Mike thing I would do is volunteer to be the vortex of Ian Tippet’s manage- Radock, VP of public relations for certain their important speeches ment operation. The Many office the University of Michigan and a were written up for press releases scene had to be the source for today’s member of the Board of Regents. — including, of course, the fact of TV drama “West Wing.” Nobody His opening line for the class: “Hi, where they were meeting! We estab- ever sat down for very long — espe- I’m Mike Radock. I worked at Ford lished terrific working relationships cially Ian Tippet! in public relations ... on the Edsel.” with United Press International One of the major conventions of and Associated Press and would Good news upon arriving at East in the summer of ’63 was the Regional telephone the releases to them (no early June: My digs would be a pri- Seminar of State Trial Judges held at faxes in the Dark Ages!). The result vate room in the Chalet overlooking the brand new swimming pool. George Plumer had taken the job with Glacier Park, Inc. to both man- age the Glacier Park Lodge and head up advertising and public relations. George warmly greeted me and immediately said: “I don’t know a blooming thing about advertising or public relations. I hope you do!” And that was the beginning of a great working relationship. George and I shared a very capable secretary, Donna Wilcox — who, if I recall correctly was a coed from Texas. I had thought a lot about what should be done to start moving Glacier Park, Inc.’s public relations program forward. First, communi- cations with the Glacier Park, Inc. Famed Blackfeet artist John L. Clark. (photo courtesy of John Dobbertin) The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 23 Hummel’s P.R. Man, continued. . . . Many July 18-20. Keynote speaker very windy day and night. Over attle and then San Francisco. was U.S. Supreme Court Justice cocktails (my “Shirley Temple”) Director of Montana State High- Tom C. Clark. Justice Clark really the manager (whose name is gone way Advertising Doris Stalker had appreciated the article I drafted on from my feeble brain) said: “John, become a “good friend” of Glacier his speech to the group. The press the only problem with the Prince of Park Lodge Manager George Plumer, release — and several others on Wales Hotel is that when the wind and by reference an acquaintance of this convention made the national comes up, we have whitecaps in the mine. She provided me with an open wires of UPI and AP. It also didn’t toilet bowls.” door to the best public relations and hurt that Justice Clark was inducted And suddenly it was past mid-Au- advertising agencies in San Fran- into the Blackfeet Tribe at a special gust. Evenings became downright cisco. I took full advantage and spent ceremony at Many. I received a very cold. You could feel the pulse of three full days talking with some of nice, handwritten “thank-you” on the hotels slowing. And there was a the top people in the business to see U.S. Supreme Court letterhead from 500-mile Model-T race leaving from how I might direct my career. Justice Clark, and that now hangs the front door of East Glacier Lodge in the Davenport, Iowa law office of My one great regret is losing touch and they wanted someone to crank my daughter, Judy. with the Glacier Park Lodge em- up some publicity for them. Just too ployees from the summers of ’62 I started looking for good feature tempting. So off I went. We crossed and ’63. I can’t recall any repeats stories with photos that we could the Continental Divide three times, — other than the central office staff also put out to UPI and AP. Black- ending up on the far eastern side of and higher-up maintenance crews. feet Indian Artist John L. Clarke Montana in a dot-of-a-place by the was a fixture just up the road from name of Circle. I filed daily reports There are some names I do recall! Glacier Park Lodge. Over the two with both UPI and AP and the cov- Does anyone out there from Gla- summers, I really got to know John erage was terrific. cier Park Lodge in ’62 know what and took bundles of photos of him. became of Price (everyone called him After the Model-T race, I still had He was 82 in ’63 (died in 1970). by his last name, and I sure don’t re- 10 days before I had to be back in The release (with photos) on John member his first name). Price knew Ann Arbor for my senior year at the appeared all over the country. everyone in the place by name. And University of Michigan — and my I also was smart enough to purchase second year editing the Gargoyle. So Hummell’s P.R. Man con- one of John Clarke’s hand-carved we headed for the West Coast — Se- tinued on page 30. mountain goats — one I watched John carve. I think I paid $15 for the signed piece in 1963. Last time I heard, it had a collector’s value ap- proaching $10,000. I still am upset I did not rob a bank and purchase the incredible, very large carving of a mountaineer attempting to swing his rifle by the barrel to fend off a charg- ing grizzly. I believe that piece — and several others of great value — were destroyed when John’s old house/ workshop was destroyed in a fire. We toured the park, checking in with all of the hotel managers to see what we might do to be of service. The author on Swiftcurrent Lake before outboard motors were banned. One memorable visit was to the (photo courtesy of John Dobbertin) Prince of Wales on a very stormy, 24 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail ByI LesSaw Davison (Gearjammer Michelle 2001- was uneventful,Smile and we parked at a little shy - but she’s sharp as a tack. 02) (Reprinted with permission of Izaak Walton Inn. My heart went out for her. GPIs staff publication, “The Glacier Montana Project Hope is an organi- As we climbed toward Logan Pass, Grizzlette”.) zation that arranges special events for the mountain peaks played hide-

It was threatening rain, but Rich seriously ill and/or disabled children and-seek among swirling clouds. Bond had us pulling away from and their families. Among the events We talked a little, but mostly it was Glacier Park Lodge right on sched- planned for the kids today were mo- “oooh” and “aaah.” I tried to think ule. We were seven rookie drivers in torcycle rides, highway patrol cruiser of things to say to Michelle, and four vans following Rich on our first rides, tours to Logan Pass (our it had been pretty dumb stuff. She driving assignment; we were head- contribution to the day), helicopter didn’t know me, so she was hold- ing to Izaak Walton Lodge . to take rides, and a cookout at day’s end. ing back like kids do. Then, with a part in Montana Project Hope. I was These are special kids; this would be little help from her Dad, she told Tail-End Charlie as we drove toward their special day. me that her friends at school call Marias Pass. Amid the beautiful her “Cute Brat” - because she is one. There was the usual milling around scenery, I daydreamed a bit as to She laughed when she said that, and at the start, as some children were how I had come to be here. maybe blushed a little, too, and that being suited up for motorcycle rides seemed to break some ice. We talked It had been only four days since and other families were on their way some more. Just little stuff, but she I had arrived from Virginia. The to our vans. Wouldn’t you know, just was warming. Nearing the summit mountains were even more beauti- then it started to rain. No problem at Logan Pass, there was quite a lot ful than I had remembered from my - rain gear seemed to appear from ev- of snow. I turned to Michelle and first visit seven years ago. After filling erywhere. I don’t think a single child asked her, “When we get to the top, out several reams of paper forms changed his/her mind and got off a how about if you and I throw some for HR, Deb Murtaugh logged me motorcycle because of the rain. Big snowballs at your brother?” It started in to the Transportation Depart- burly bikers swathed in rain gear led ment. Then she showed me the EDR, pointed me to the Jammer Nearing the summit at Logan Pass, there was quite a Dorm, and said, “See you tomor- lot of snow. I turned to Michelle and asked her, “When row.” I found the dorm, brought in we get to the top, how about if you and I throw some my stuff, and then checked my AAA snowballs at your brother?” Guidebook to see how many stars the Jammer Dorm rated. Sadly, it ap- off, each one carrying a small clump kind of slow, but then Michelle’s face parently has an unlisted rating. But of rain gear clutched to his back. If just seemed to light up. That’s got to it seemed comfortable enough. we could have seen inside, I’d bet a be the biggest and bestest smile I’ve Most of the time since then had lot of money there was a big smile ever seen! The whole interior of the been taken up by orientation and inside each of those little clumps. van seemed to be aglow. Wow! We followed the motorcycles in our classroom instruction. We’ve gotten After that, the rest of the day is kind vans. a lot of good information, and it’s of a blur. The van ride was unevent- been a great opportunity to get to A family of four from Billings were ful, the kids absolutely loved the know the other new drivers - but I my passengers for the day, a young helicopter rides, everyone posed for can’t say the classroom stuff has been couple with their son Ryan and pictures, and the cookout at the end a highlight. When we were able to daughter Michelle. Michelle is a of the day was great fun and great drive up to Logan Pass on the first beautiful young lady who just last food for all. Just a fantastic day, for day it opened for the season - that week graduated from elementary some very special children. Thanks was a highlight. So I was really en- school. She is severely handicapped, to Rich and GPI for letting us be joying myself as we headed out: this and has trouble speaking, and she’s part of that. I’m looking forward to is why I came to Glacier. The drive The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 25 She named her operation “Toots’ Sweet Shop.” Toots’ Sweet Shop The Sweet Shop had a crew of four: Toots, Melissa Johnson, 1970 Chris Vick, and me. We all were college undergraduates, and (ex- cept for Toots) we all were in our first season at the hotel. Chris and I returned for many summers, and Chris became a legendary figure in the history of Many Glacier under the nickname “Wizard.” Chris’s sobriquet was derived from “Mr. Wizard,” who was the host of an early television show. The association arose from a mis- by John Hagen (Many Glacier counter lay behind a panel in the hap involving the snack counter’s 1970-80) wall which was raised on coun- ancient and highly dysfunctional terweights during hours of opera- Many Glacier Hotel’s St. Moritz milkshake-making machines. tion. Room long has had a fast food One of them had a short circuit operation tucked away along its I had the good fortune to spend which occasionally dealt out a northern wall. For the past 20 my first two summers at Many stinging electric shock through years or so, it has gone by the Glacier working in this agreeable the steel mixing can. name of “Heidi’s,” and has resem- little shop. It offered the best In retrospect, it was appallingly bled a Quick Stop convenience work schedule at Many, free food, dangerous for us to have used store, with all manner of snacks independence of older supervi- wrapped in plastic packages, self- serve ice cream, hot dogs, coffee, For the past 20 years or so, it has gone by the name of and a solitary cashier. “Heidi’s,” and has resembled a Quick Stop convenience In earlier decades, the St. Moritz store. . . . In earlier decades, the St. Moritz held a held a bustling snack counter, bustling snack counter, much more labor-intensive. much more labor-intensive than the “Heidi’s” form. At one time, sors, and constant socializing that machine. But those were it was known as “the Grill,” had a with other members of the staff. the days before OSHA regula- hamburger menu, and sent clouds Employees from all departments tions, and Glacier’s hotels had a of greasy blue smoke wafting flocked to the counter for milk vast amount of antiquated equip- up to the lobby. The Grill drew shakes, cookies, and pie to supple- ment. We simply held the can business away from the dining ment the cafeteria fare. with one hand when using the room, and was replaced in the dangerous machine, to avoid the In 1970, my first summer, the ‘60s and ‘70s by a soda-fountain risk of electrocution. We posted counter was run by Mary Tudor, a format with hand-scooped ice a scoreboard on the wall (entitled descendant of the English monar- cream, milk shakes, sandwiches, “The Zap Sheet”) to record the chical family of that name. Mary and baked goods produced in number of shocks which each of Many Glacier’s own bakery. The went by the nickname of “Toots.”

26 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail the counterhands absorbed in the The whole crew took part in for- crawled in under the counter. We course of the summer. malized practical joking through then made elaborate revisions of the game of “Freeze!” Each coun- the menu which was posted over- One morning during a rush, terhand was allowed two “Freeze!” head with removable letters. We Chris and Toots were making commands in the course of an added elaborate breakfast items milkshakes side by side. They afternoon. When the word was — omelets, waffles, and the like happened to brush hip to hip at the moment that Chris received a nasty shock from the defective I was standing behind them, and was startled to see mixing machine. I was standing Toots’ pony tail suddenly go flying into the air as the jolt behind them, and was startled passed from his body into hers. to see Toots’ pony tail suddenly go flying into the air as the jolt uttered, the rest of the crew were — to the usual list of donuts and passed from his body into hers. required to stop dead still in Danish rolls. Toots had to sit down for half an whatever they were doing for 10 The next day, Toots had the hour to collect her jangled nerves. seconds. We took great delight morning shift. As she related Upon returning, she shakily told in forcing each other to overflow it, “A flock of tourists walked Chris, “I have a name for you! fountain Cokes or suddenly to fall up to the counter and started Remember the man who did elec- into a trance while waiting on an talking among themselves. I trical experiments on TV? We’re impatient tourist. going to call you ‘Mr. Wizard!’” thought, ‘Hm’m! These peeps The biggest practical joke of the are even more confused than The nickname stuck in part be- summer arose after Chris and usual. They’re looking right at cause Chris was an relentless prac- I discovered a removable panel the menu and talking about all tical joker. Few shifts in Toots’ under the counter in the front sorts of things that aren’t listed Sweet Shop passed without some wall of the shop. It was evidently there!’ So I stepped up and said sort of Wizardian adventure. meant to give maintenance per- condescendingly, ‘I’m sorry; we Chris sometimes would cut small sonnel access to the plumbing. don’t have any of those things.’ holes in the paper cups that were When the panel was off, it was Then they pointed at the menu. used to serve soft drinks, so that possible to wriggle under pipes I gasped. And the lobby porters the cups would spring spectacular and gain after-hours access to the [who were in on the joke, and leaks as they were being filled. He shop. were lurking expectantly nearby] also would sometimes slip scoops collapsed on the floor in a fit of One night, when the shop was of ice cream into the pockets of laughter.” Toots’ apron. closed, we removed the panel and

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 27 Toot’s Sweet Shop, continued. . . . filtered through a rancid old cigar. The whole crew took part in formalized practical joking But the cranky man took a seat through the game of “Freeze!” Each counterhand was and drank it down without any allowed two “Freeze!” commands in the course of an further complaint. afternoon. When the word was uttered, the rest of the Although work at the Sweet crew were required to stop dead still in whatever they Shop was great fun, it was not were doing for 10 seconds. an uninterrupted frolic. It brought my first experience of Tourists were a source of fascina- fresh today?” she piped at us, in a death. One afternoon, we served tion to us, since we met a great shrill and suspicious tone. “Here, an elderly couple hot dogs and variety over the course of the bring them over and let me feel they sat down to eat them at a summer. One who especially them!” Toots picked up a baker’s table nearby. Suddenly, the wife stood out was The Cookie Lady, tray of sugar, molasses, chocolate collapsed on the floor. She had a character who visited Many chip, and oatmeal cookies, and suffered a massive heart attack. A Glacier every year. I was on duty brought them over for inspection. group of us immediately began to with Toots one quiet afternoon The Cookie Lady then felt each give cardiopulmonary resuscita- when the telephone rang in the cookie, patting and poking them tion (CPR). back room behind the counter. obsessively, like a miser fondling Toots answered, then rushed back coins, before finally purchasing a We continued the effort to re- with an air of breathless excite- few. suscitate her for about an hour. ment. “That was the front desk! Park rangers were long delayed in Another guest I recall was a The Cookie Lady has just checked arriving (probably due to emer- cranky man who abusively com- in!” she exclaimed. gencies elsewhere) and the hotel plained to me that the coffee was nurse was away. Boy Scout first- Moments later, an elderly lady too weak. I went into the back aid courses served us well, but I appeared, her fingers gripping the room of the shop, ostensibly “to was amazed at how squalid and countertop. She was well-dressed, brew another pot.” In fact, I messy the CPR experience was in an old-fashioned manner that took a packet of Sanka instant compared to sanitized training included a little hat. Despite coffee and stirred it into the sessions. The poor old woman’s her advanced age, she wore no cranky man’s original cup. The ribs were cracking audibly as glasses, and her eyes were bright result must have been an absolute we pressed on her sternum, her and intense. “Are your cookies witch’s brew, like a cup of coffee stomach inflated grotesquely with

28 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Toot’s Sweet Shop, continued. . . . air, and gastric juice belched up two (Dennis Dunne and Jerrilyn Lady and other colorful guests, into her mouth. We began to Johnson) were bar employees who and the idyllic shifts behind the rinse our own mouths with Coke worked next to us in the old St. counter. Many Glacier Hotel in to purge them of the gruesome Moritz bar. We held an aching the Tippet Era was full of Dicken- taste. We felt completely helpless memorial service for them in the sian charm, and we were like the and wretched with the grieving St. Moritz Room, in front of the waiters in a Dickensian inn, full husband close by. At last a doctor stage where we showed the care- of merriment and rollicking good arrived with a portable electro- free musical “Little Mary Sun- fun. encephalograph. It showed a flat shine.” The summer’s memories reading, and he instructed us to are a poignant combination of stop the CPR. joys and sorrows. At about the same time, two fel- Thirty-three years later, I still low Many Glacier employees were find delight in thinking of Toots’ killed when their car spun off a Sweet Shop — the Zap Sheet, the rain-slicked mountain highway “Freeze!” commands, the Cookie coming back from Kalispell. The Saved the Hotel continued from page 15. tion. the townsite, Great Northern dis- When Kenney sent the “Why?” patched Sleeger and five other ho- reply in 1935, however, he was It was in the aftermath of the tel company men to protect “our not joking. The Depression had fire that the “We saved the ho- property” – namely, the Prince of seen Glacier rail passenger arriv- tel” telegram was sent. While Wales Hotel. als, both individuals and tours, the telegram may have had hotel plummet. The effect was imme- manager Omar Ellis’s name on it, Sleeger’s “I saved the hotel!” tele- diate and most pronounced on it was almost certainly the idea gram remained a private company hotel bookings and saddle horse of Ray Sleeger and sent at his matter until 1939 when, just days trips. Business was so slow at the suggestion. Of all the people on after William Kenney’s death, Prince of Wales Hotel that Great site, they were the only two who an article appeared in a St. Paul Northern did not bother to open would have had the familiarity newspaper containing humor- it for three summers: 1933, 1934 with headquarters staff, William ous recollections about Kenney, and 1935. Added to that was Kenney in particular, to feel com- including a reference to Sleeger’s the repeal of Prohibition in the fortable in addressing someone so telegram and Kenney’s “Why?” United States. “With the removal high up in railway management response. of Prohibition, there is not the in such a manner. Great Northern Railway president reason for this hotel, nor will What makes Ray Sleeger the Frank Gavin wanted to know the there be any possibility of making likely inspiration for sending truth of the story and had a staff it of any particular value,” Kenney the telegram is the fact he’d sent member dig through the files, groused in a July 1935 letter. nearly the same message a year confirming that the infamous Just two weeks before the Bound- earlier and gotten the same re- “Why” telegram had been sent ary Creek fire, a hotel company sponse. It had happened during August 11, 1935. “It is hard to executive had suggested to Ken- the 1935 Boundary Creek fire understand how this gets out to that threatened the townsite of the newspaper men at this time,” Saved the Hotel continued Waterton Park. As the fire neared the memo to Gavin stated.

The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 29 Hummel’s P.R. Man, continued from page 24 then there was B-B-B Bob (worked We also had a “famous-by-associa- in Asia Minor and Western Europe in the laundry) from the Bay Area, tion” employee — waitress in the for Copley News Agency; briefly a a guy who never let a slight speech dining room whose older sister was reporter for the Kalamazoo Gazette, impediment slow him down! Bob married to a U.S. Supreme Court Kalamazoo, MI; was in public rela- had made a quick departure from Justice. tions for Johnson Outboard Motors, Yellowstone employment in ’61 after then Zenith Radio Corp.; directed The experience in the two summers he and a friend pulled a memorable the Chicago Boat Show and a large working for Glacier Park, Inc., were stunt. They found a length of pipe trade show for the marine industry; a super boost for my career. How and attached an old steering wheel to co-founded Professional Exposi- lucky can one guy be? it. Bob drove it in the ground near tion Management Company, Inc, the Old Faithful viewing area and his Life after Glacier: Fulfilled a Uni- producing trade shows and public pal stood about 100 feet away. When versity of Michigan Journalism events, which 1 sold to Capital Cit- they knew Old Faithful was about Department internship as a reporter/ ies/American Broadcasting Compa- to blow, the friend hollered to Bob: sub-editor at the Beirut Daily Star, nies, Inc., allowing me to take my “OK, Bob, let her go!” And there Beirut, Lebanon (1964-66); taught “I Quit Money” and quit in 1987 at was a football player from Washing- English-as-a-second-language at the ripe age of 45. ton State (bellman) and his “steady” Hagazian College, Beirut; freelanced who was also an employee (laundry). Some Off-trail Excursions continued from page 9. walked halfway around the north- We found that dead alpine larch before reaching the game trail to west side of the lake, then found branches burn up faster than Forum Peak. Alice and Jane and a faint trail up to a peak overlook- cardboard. I hiked up a major trail to the ing the lake. A monument there Alberta/British Columbia border We got a good sleep, had break- said that it was Forum Peak (at two years ago, and followed a fast, and then packed up and the junction of Montana, Alberta, very crummy trail from there to headed to a notch in the wall and British Columbia). Forum Peak. It was an interesting southwest of us. We walked hike, but I can’t recommend it. We looked down long scree through that notch and suddenly slopes southwest of that peak, there was a human trail! We were I’m eager to repeat the short, and it looked easy. We ran down scree to a small stream (we later found that it was the headwaters I’ve never repeated that trip, but would like to. of Kintla Creek). A faint game trail angled up a hillside south of on Boulder Pass! Needless to fast route from the lakeshore to the creek, and we walked up it say, we walked the trail to Goat Forum Peak. Canada is so “eco- until we reached a waterfall. We Haunt and took the launch to friendly” now that we might be climbed a cliff by the waterfall Waterton. Norman didn’t com- arrested if we went beyond the and entered a weird flat basin plain, but he drove back to Cali- “trail closed” marker beside the filled with alpine larch around fornia the next morning, while I lake. However, if we quickly con- two small ponds. Most of the led my hike to Grinnell Glacier. tinued into the Kintla Valley they ground was still snow-covered. would not capture us. But I have I’ve never repeated that trip, but We camped there, with no idea of too many dreams! where we were (we had no map, would like to. The trail around as was usual for me at that time). the lakeshore is now blocked

30 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail Blackie Dillon continued from page 19. “Mad as hell they weren’t invited. back door was yanked open and could make out a single figure on They were already drunk when someone had a grip on Betty’s a horse. The horse slowed from a they arrived. Things got ugly fast.” ankle and was dragging her out of trot to a walk, and we could make the truck. “Wait, Fred,” I yelled. out the black hat and a poncho A mattress flew out of the up- “Hold it.” wrapped around the shoulders per story window and landed at against the night air. The white our feet. A whiskey bottle sailed I got out of the vehicle and saw horse snorted out little foggy, over our heads and I ducked Betty being dragged across the steamy breaths as it came to a instinctively, pulling Fred down sand by Vince and Taco. Taco was stop near the group of six or seven with me. Another object whistled still wearing his Homburg hat. wranglers standing behind Vince. by. Something, perhaps a rock, Both were very drunk. clanged against the side of the “Boys, get on your horses,” Black- “What the –.” Fred came running bus as it ground its way along the ie said. around the side of the truck. He bumpy road. and I and Charlie, the other guy The wranglers moved around like “Get your truck started, Fred. I’ll in the back of the truck, started ghosts of Hamlet’s father in the check the house. We’d better get after Vince and Taco. fog. They seemed rather meek out of here fast.” all of a sudden. They mounted “Let her go, Vince.” I said. and formed a procession of black When I got to the house, several Vince dropped her leg and mounds against the gray fog. wranglers were banging on the squinted at me. A patch of fog Blackie wheeled his horse around old piano in the corner of the came between us and then slid and dismounted; he walked living room and singing. Two away. I advanced a few steps. Fred slowly to where Vince was stand- others were wrestling, or dancing, and Charlie took Betty back to ing – as it were, frozen. He said in the middle of the room, barely the truck. She was shaking and something that I couldn’t hear able to stand. A waitress, Betty, unable to speak. Vince crouched and took the knife from Vince, was slumped on the battered old down like a wrestler, moving his who just seemed to droop. I couch in a stupor. I shook her and arms and circling. There was a noticed, maybe for the first time, dragged her to her feet. The wran- knife in his right hand, the blade that Blackie was very short. Black- gler with her was Vince. “Hey, held so that about two inches ie carefully put the knife back man, what are you –.” He made stuck out below the knuckles. into the leather holster on Vince’s a grab for Betty but I had her out belt, fastening the strap over the the door before he could react. “Put it down, Vince.” I said. handle. He helped Vince, who I practically carried her along Vince continued circling, still in was staggering now and having to Fred’s old delivery truck and his crouch. I picked up a rock difficulty standing, onto his horse. pushed her into the back of the and held it in both hands in front He may have tied him somehow, truck. She was wide awake now. of me, circling away from Vince. for Vince seemed to slump for- There were three other people And then both of us seemed to ward against the horse’s neck, his crouching in the truck. I jumped hear it at the same time. We froze arms appearing to embrace the inside and shouted for Fred to in some kind of insane still-life animal. Blackie took the reins of take off. pageant in the fog. The sound Vince’s horse and led him slowly “What?” Fred turned his head and was still distant but it came more to the head of the ghostly proces- was looking through the partition distinctly: Clop-clip-clip-clop- sion. They began to clop-clop into at us. pity-clop-clip-clip... Blackie continued on page 32. “Get going!” But just then the We looked at the fog-bank and The Inside Trail ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ 31 Saved the Hotel continued from page 29. ney that “it might be possible to Ray Sleeger’s death would open to learn Peggy’s fate. dispose of it (the Prince of Wales the door for a young understudy, While there’s more research to be Hotel) to other interests. . . . It Cy Stevenson, to take over the done on Ray Sleeger and Otto can only operate at a heavy loss.” job. Stevenson remained as chief Thompson, I’m extremely grateful engineer of the hotel company Such was not Kenney’s thinking for Martha Davidge sharing her until the 1980s, by then under regarding Many Glacier Hotel. information with me. Now we new management. Many was vital to the railway’s all better understand the circum- hotel operations in Glacier, its Even the Thompsons came out stances behind that most famous backbone. Kenney revealed as okay, despite the tragedy of Glacier incident, “We’ve saved the much just days after the Heaven’s Otto’s death that marred their hotel! – Why?” Peak fire when he said that the initial departure from Glacier. “only worry I had about the Otto Thompson’s wife, Margaret Many Glacier Hotel is that it is Thompson, went on to write the the key to the whole thing and if book High Trails of Glacier Na- we did not lose the other hotels, it tional Park (1936) – one of four would be a serious loss to us.” books she would author – and became superintendent of the It seems obvious that Sleeger and Benton County School System Ellis were toying with Kenney’s (1950-1963) in Washington state. emotions when they fired off the She died in 1969. Of her adopted “We saved the hotel!” telegram, children, William went on to live recalling the earlier incident. And a full life. He died in 1984; his Kenney recognized it as a practi- children live in California. I’ve yet cal joke, fulfilling his role with the “Why?” reply. Blackie Dillon continued from page 31. The telegram was Ray Sleeger’s the mist. Then Blackie dropped Blackie turned his horse and last hurrah in Glacier. By Octo- the reins of Vince’s horse and held rejoined the procession. They ber, Sleeger was hospitalized at the up his arm. The line of dark fig- disappeared into the fog, and we Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn., ures halted, and Blackie wheeled heard the strange mournful clatter with complications from his high his horse slowly around and came of the horses’ hooves dying away blood pressure. He died Oct. 12, over to where we were standing. in the night air. 1936, three days after suffering a He appeared to recognize me and So ended the encounter and my stroke and just a month and a half leaned forward in the saddle. after the Heaven’s Peak fire. summer. I never saw Blackie after “I want you boys here the first that summer. Yet I do see him Cora and Ruth Sleeger moved thing tomorrow morning. You still, these many years later, disap- back to St. Paul following Ray’s clean up.” He motioned with his pearing into the fog at the head of death and remained there for the head toward the house. “Take his ghostly procession. rest of their lives, Ruth eventually tools from my work shed. Fix Bruce L. R. Smith is Senior getting a job in the Immigration anything that needs fixin’. Any- Scholar at the Heyman Center for Service and looking after Cora, thing you can’t fix that needs the Humanities, Columbia Uni- who lived to be 100. Cora died in fixin’, you tell me. Is that clear?” 1991; Ruth in 2001. versity. “Yes, sir,” I said.

32 ◆ Spring 2003 ◆ The Inside Trail