Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ Volume XXXIII, No. 1 BROADWAY MUSICALS at Many Glacier: An Anthology

Phil Reed playing Winthrop in The Music Man, 1974. (Photo courtesy of the Paul Meierding Collection.)

In this issue, we remember the people who helped bring a special energy to Many Glacier Hotel through performance!

In this issue: • The Night Seven Skunks Got Into Glacier Park Lodge • Rebuilding Sperry Chalet • “Manyting Up”: Wrangling from Lake McDonald to Sperry • Walking with a Grizzly • Jammer Tales • A Many Glacier Miscellany • Inside News of the Summer of 2017 Editorial: Support the Sperry Action Fund Last August, the Sprague Fire burned stabilize the chalet walls for the winter The Park Service conducted an the historic main building at Sperry with a trusswork of wooden beams. environmental impact study. In Chalets. The wooden interior and the mid-May, it issued its Finding of No An extraordinary public and private wooden roof, porches and balconies Significant Impact (see story, page effort then expedited the Sperry were destroyed. But the stout stone 3). It also released a plan to rebuild project. It was bipartisan, involv- walls displaying the Great Northern the chalet in two phases, in the sum- ing the Department of the Interior Railway’s logo survived the fire. mers of 2018 and 2019. and members of Congress from both Public opinion overwhelmingly parties. The Park Service solicited The Park Service will spend some $8 favored a prompt rebuilding of the public comments through open million to $12 million on the proj- chalet. The Glacier National Park houses and a scoping process. The ect. The Conservancy has pledged Conservancy (which raises private comments decisively favored rebuild- to raise an additional $2 million in funds to supplement the federal bud- ing the chalet on its original site and private funds. Rebuilding is com- get in Glacier) established the Sperry in its original form (modified to meet plicated by the need to transport Action Fund. In a few weeks, the modern building codes). building materials seven miles from Fund raised more than $120,000 to the nearest road, by helicopter or by pack train. The Glacier Park Foundation strongly supports The Glacier Park Foundation strong- the Sperry rebuilding project. We commend the ly supports the Sperry rebuilding project. We commend the Con- Conservancy for its fundraising efforts, and we servancy for its fundraising efforts, encourage our members to help. and we encourage our members to help. Donations can be made to the Sperry Action Fund through the Conservancy’s website (www.glacier. Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President org) or by checks to the Glacier Na- Minneapolis, MN 55415 Carol Dahle, Vice President tional Park Conservancy at P.O. Box www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary 2749, Columbia Falls, MT 59912. [email protected] Tessie Bundick, Historian Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer Joe Blair Laura Chihara, Webmaster The Inside Trail takes its name Mike Buck Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Tessie Bundick from the famous old trail Laura Chihara which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Park Lodge with the vanished Brian Cross The Glacier Park Foundation was Carol Repulski Dahle formed by Glacier Park employees chalets at Two Medicine, Joyce Daugaard and visitors who have a deep love for Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Ray Djuff this special place. The Foundation is name thus emphasizes the Emily Trapp Hackethorn commited both to the importance John Hagen of wilderness preservation and to publication’s focus on the the importance of places like Glacier Einar Hanson as classrooms where people can lore and history of Glacier Paul Hoff experience wilderness in intense National Park. We invite Mark Hufstetler meaningful ways, learning not only a submission of historical, Jeff Kuhn love for the land, but also a respect Linda Young Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to scientific, or anecdotal ar- Rolf Larson preserve that land. The Foundation ticles, commentary, poetry, Greg Notess has a special interest in Glacier Park’s John Sauer history, traditions and visitor facilities. or artwork for publication in Rick Taylor future issues. Mac Willemssen

2 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail Rebuilding Sperry

The [building] design will rehabilitate the chalet dormitory reflecting its period of significance (1914-1949).

By Mac Willemssen (Swiftcurrent The decision to rebuild the exist- helicopter and pack train), careful 1967, Many Glacier 1968-70) ing stone dormitory building is on-site construction methods and great news to all friends of Glacier final remediation efforts are used. Glacier National Park has an- National Park. To come to this nounced its intent to rebuild the his- The concerns that needed to be ad- conclusion, Glacier National Park toric Sperry Chalet Dormitory. In a dressed included the usual suspects solicited public comment. The press release on May 17, 2018, the such as grizzly bears and avoid- Glacier Park Foundation submit- National Park Service (NPS) stated: ing any needless deforestation. ted the consensus of its Board of In addition, all sorts of esoteric “The NPS will rebuild the Sperry Directors that the dormitory build- endangered species of flora and Chalet Dormitory Building that was ing should be rebuilt as close to its fauna needed to be addressed. The badly burned in the 2017 Sprague original design as possible. The input of the Blackfeet and Confed- Fire. Specifically, the NPS will re- great majority of other comments erated Salish and Kooenai Tribes build the Sperry Chalet Dormitory concurred. The Park Service has was solicited. Even concerns such at its original site within the origi- come to that conclusion as well. as Dark Skies, air quality, water nal stone walls. The design will It is interesting to note all the resources, environmental justice rehabilitate the chalet dormitory environmental and bureaucratic and archaeology had to be con- reflecting its period of significance “hoops” the NPS had to go through sidered. Luckily, for all who will (1914-1949). Some critical updates to come to its final decision. In the enjoy Sperry Chalet in the future, will include meeting current build- good-old-days, when the building the plans to rebuild the dormitory ing codes where applicable, and was designed and built in 1913 and building passed all the tests. improvements to life safety features 1914, there were no such con- including seismic bracing and fire The Glacier Conservancy deserves cerns. The Great Northern Railway resistant materials. The visitor the gratitude of the American pub- Company simply had blueprints experience will be very similar to lic for its immediate involvement prepared and then sent a crew of what it has been for decades by with the preservation of the dormi- men to the site. Using saws, picks, using as much of the remaining his- tory building’s stone walls after shovels, hammers, dynamite, and toric fabric and replicating historic the fire and during the past winter. lots of nails and bolts, that crew finishes where practicable. Con- Over $100,000 was spent to haul harvested the materials needed struction will be completed in two wooden structural beams to the site from the rock and trees right there. phases, proposed for the summers and then construct those beams of 2018 and 2019. Cost consider- With today’s rules and regulations into an interior supporting structure ations and other unforeseen events the NPS had to prepare a detailed to preserve the stone walls from or other conditions could affect the Environmental Impact Statement the ravages of winter winds and construction schedule.” showing all the concerns which snows. That immediate Herculean needed to be addressed. The effort preserved the stone walls The NPS considered two other al- ultimate Finding of No Significant and helped lead to the decision to ternative choices. One was to keep Impact came to the conclusion the rebuild. The Glacier Park Founda- the existing stone walls as a histori- dormitory building can be rebuilt tion recognizes and applauds the cal ruin and build an all new dormi- with little ultimate environmental Glacier Conservancy for its advo- tory building. The other alternative impact, so long as proper meth- cacy and generosity. was to keep the existing walls as a ods of transporting materials (by historical ruin and do nothing more.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 3 INSIDE NEWS of Glacier National Park

Longtime location managers are back at all the main lodges in and at the gateways to Glacier and Waterton: Kathy Eiland at Glacier Park Lodge, Bob Abrams at Lake McDonald Lodge, Eric Kendall at Many Glacier Hotel, Chris Caulfield at the Prince of Wales The 2018 Summer Season got off to a solid Hotel, Helen Roberts at St. Mary start. The chandelier at Prince of Wales Lodge, and Todd Ashcraft at West got its traditional annual cleaning, Glacier Village.

In 2017, Glacier Park experienced itors no longer can claim campsites and Todd Ashcraft at West Glacier a surge in visitation. Some 3.3 for third parties not yet present at Village. million people visited the Park – the site. Llamas no longer will be The Glacier Park Collection by Pur- a million more than in 2015. A allowed to serve as pack animals in suit (formerly Glacier Park, Inc.) is million visited in July alone (a Glacier, to avoid spreading diseases replacing large support logs in the monthly figure unprecedented in to wildlife. breezeway at Glacier Park Lodge. any of the western National Parks Renovation of Going-to-the-Sun A local craftsman in Big Fork is – not Yosemite, not Yellowstone!). Road is almost complete, after a de- hand-shaping the four main timbers Vehicular traffic was so intense cade of summerly work. This sum- to replicate historical details. In 2017, Glacier Park experienced a surge in The Glacier Park Foundation pre- sented historical orientation talks visitation. Some 3.3 million people visited the again this summer for staffs at the Park – a million more than in 2015. lodges in Glacier and Waterton. Ray Djuff (Prince of Wales 1973-75, ’78) that shutdowns had to be imposed mer’s projects will focus on turn- and Mark Hufstetler (Lake McDon- periodically in various valleys. outs between Apgar and Avalanche ald 1978-83), the historians and GPF Creek. Some delays in traffic are directors who gave the talks at the Unusual factors may have contrib- anticipated on the Road’s west side. lodges, offer the reports below. uted to last summer’s surge, but the Park Service cautions visitors to be Longtime location managers are Prince of Wales Hotel prepared for crowding during the back at all the main lodges in and (By Ray Djuff) 2018 season. Glacier Park now has at the gateways to Glacier and I got to see first-hand the destruc- a Twitter page, which does not in- Waterton: Kathy Eiland at Glacier tion caused by last summer’s spire universal rejoicing, but which Park Lodge, Bob Abrams at Lake Kenow Fire and how close it will have the benefit of offering McDonald Lodge, Eric Kendall at came to destroying “the Prince.” live congestion updates. Many Glacier Hotel, Chris Caul- The fire was snuffed out within a field at the Prince of Wales Hotel, The Park Service has announced a couple hundred yards of the hotel, Helen Roberts at St. Mary Lodge, few new regulations for 2018. Vis- but it did claim one outbuilding, a 4 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail woodworking shop to the west of ing. While I knew the chandelier Glacier Park Lodge the hotel. Charred trees and bushes is made of aluminum, I had to go (By Ray Djuff) within yards of other outbuildings over to touch it to confirm what I’d Two weeks later I was on the road revealed how close the fire came to been told. again, doing near back-to-back causing more damage, fortunately I’d never seen the chandelier low- presentations at Glacier Park Lodge stopped by the valiant effort of ered, so that was another first. In the (June 3), St. Mary Lodge (June 4) volunteer firefighters from across 1970s, we used to hoist the lightest and Many Glacier Hotel (June 6). southern Alberta. bellman on a boatswain’s chair to Kathy Eiland, again at the helm My presentation to the Prince staff clean each light fixture, with no real at Glacier Park Lodge greeted me was revised this year to include the protective measures. In hindsight, it with a warm smile and embrace Kenow Fire, and many individuals was a dangerous practice, and Caul- upon my return. My talk was rela- told me later that the photos I pre- field wondered how it ever passed tively unchanged from last year, sented were some of the first they’d Occupational Health and Safety although shorter. seen of the intensity of the blaze. regulations. I suspect OH&S never I spent a good three hours with the Many of the staff attended a Parks knew, as it was never told. bellmen next morning of June 4. Canada presentation a few days ear- Following my presentation on May We went over notes that had been lier on the fire, which gave everyone 22, a group of bellman and other prepared in 2013 for walking tours a good backgrounding on the dam- interested employees cornered me of the hotel. I had discovered the age caused and what to anticipate as and I spent two hours answering notes the previous night, and I the park wilderness recovers. further questions about the history made numerous corrections. The number of new people on staff of the hotel. Part of that involved It’s always fun to walk the ho- is higher this year than usual due walking them around to show them tel and annex with the bellmen. to the Kenow fire. Manager Chris points of interest. Returning ones have told me the Caulfield said that the unantici- The next morning, I was cornered details I had pointed out that they, pated early closure of the hotel due by a lone bellman who revealed that in turn, remarked on to the guests. to the fire caused travel headaches a relative of his had worked in the One is how to distinguish the six for many staff trying to head back hotel decades before as the customs John Fery paintings in the hotel to school. from three non-Ferys. You can see brush strokes in the Fery paintings Charred trees and brush within yards of and the layering of paint. You have outbuildings revealed how close the fire came to step back to appreciate his Im- to causing more damage, fortunately stopped pressionistic style. The three other works, by unknown artists, are by the valiant effort of volunteer firefighters from flat in comparison, with no brush across southern Alberta. strokes evident. I pointed out original furniture in Caulfield said that the biggest officer who inspected passengers on the “sun porch” leading to the an- challenge in opening the Prince of the Motor Vessel “International”. I nex, original door hardware and Wales this summer was having to told Brady stories about his relative window latches, and a remaining do two rounds of cleanup. “Every he’d never heard, then took him skylight in one of the third-floor horizontal surface of the hotel was to where his relative’s office was lobby rooms. I explained how tran- covered in soot,” he said. It took a located in the basement of the hotel. soms helped ventilate the hotel. We week to remove the soot and clean When I returned to Calgary, I sent also touched on Blackfeet culture all the draperies, rugs and linens him more information about his an- and stories while looking at Winold before a regular, season-opening cestor, some of which he now uses Reiss prints in the annex. cleaning could be undertaken. in a presentation. Each bellman, on a rotating basis, gives a talk to While wandering the fourth floor of Just before I left on May 23, the guests in the lobby each night. the annex the previous day, I found three-tiered chandelier in the lobby was lowered to the floor for clean- The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 5 one of the original shared bath- rooms. (Prior to Kuntson’s renova- [Mark Hufstetler] decided to shorten [his] tions in the late 1950s, not all guest presentation slightly this year, for a fairly rooms had a toilet, just a sink.) The door to that room had always been remarkable reason: “nearly everyone in attendance locked on previous visits, but was had heard me speak last year!” open this time. The shared bathroom was a novelty to the bellmen, a piece I substantially revised my talk for cooking was done outside. Every- of history under their very noses. Many as Kendall had asked me to one was happy when the kitchen, St. Mary Lodge keep it short, due to the number of lined in stainless steel and outfitted (By Ray Djuff) other announcements that had to with new and upgraded equipment, be made. I also wanted to change was completed. At St. Mary Lodge, I was met by it to focus on the completion of Lake McDonald Lodge location manager Helen Roberts, major renovations last summer. So (By Mark Hufstetler) back for another season. My talk I related, in just over 20 minutes, for the St. Mary staff was much the how the three basic elements of I decided to shorten my presenta- same as it had been last year. nature – wind (driving snow up tion slightly this year, for a fairly Roberts said that the new mini- against the building causing it to remarkable reason: nearly everyone houses, opened last year, have been lean and weighing on balconies), in attendance had heard me speak last well received by guests, with mini- water (flooding and penetrating year! Overall, more than two-thirds mal complaints about the bathroom the building, causing warping and of the lodge’s 2018 employees are for each house being in a separate degrading the foundation concrete) returning from last year, and of course building some yards away from and fire (the1936 Heavens Peak many of the others are partial-season the actual mini-house. Guests are blaze) – had made their marks on employees or international students informed of the bathroom arrange- the history of the hotel and precipi- on work visas. This is in contrast to a ment at the time of booking, to tated the need for renovations. typical Xanterra returning-employee rate of 20-25 percent, according to eliminate any surprise. The arrange- The night I arrived, the musical general manager Marc Ducharme, ment was put in place when there legacy, which the Foundation has and I think is definitely a testament to were rental teepees on the site. been nurturing at Many over the Bob Abrams and his management of past decade, was very evident. A Many Glacier Hotel the facility. (By Ray Djuff) group of about a dozen employees, under the leadership of assistant I had good conversations with both Eric Kendall is back as location front-end manager Cooper, was Bob and Marc, who thanked GPF manager at Many Glacier Hotel, al- practising by the lobby piano. Even for its work. That night, at the Park ways a welcome face. Kendall told at this early stage their efforts were Service segment of the orientation, staff during the orientation that he’s polished and at admirable levels. ranger Bill Schustrom also gave GPF held to as high a standard as any The plan is for a Hootenanny to be a warm shout-out for its history ef- other employee. In fact, for him it’s held weekly in the lobby. forts, with a round of applause. Bill even higher. is turning 80 next month, and is as One of the last major upgrades to engaging as ever. “People say to me that if I’m not the hotel was completed just this up to par, they’ll tell my parents,” spring, rejuvenating the kitchen. Both Marc and Bob talked briefly Kendall said, referring to the fact During the three weeks that the about the events of last fall, when the his parents, one half of whom is the work was being done, a small crew lodge was evacuated due to smoke now-retired “Jammer Joe” Kendall, of kitchen staff produced meals on from the Sprague Fire. I learned that have a long history in Glacier and a smoker under a canopy outside, after the closure, Xanterra trans- are widely known. Kendall said rain or shine. Staff could take their ferred a number of LML employees he’s expecting his parents to visit meals inside to the employee din- to Yellowstone to finish out their later this summer. ing room (EDR) to eat, but all the contracts, while a smaller number

6 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail moved over to Rising Sun. The entire the trailhead. (The trails haven’t yet that. (The food, both in the public property underwent a massive clean- been cleared, though.) dining room and in the EDR, is sev- ing over the winter to remove traces After the orientation, Bob asked me if eral notches above what I remember of smoke, and everything looked I could stay for an extra day, until the from 40 years ago.) The lodge also great. The effects of the fire itself lodge’s official opening, and I happily held a brief opening ceremony on are less apparent from the lodge area accepted the offer. The dining room Friday morning, though the opening than I would have guessed, and the does an employee-only “soft opening” itself was complicated when the elec- Park Service has reopened the Sperry the evening before the season begins, tric substation at West Glacier failed, trail, with new interpretive signage at serving complimentary meals to the cutting power to the Lake McDonald staff, and I was able to participate in area for much of the day. A Many Glacier Miscellany By Mac Willemssen (Swiftcurrent Mr. Tippet cancelled it permanently, (this was against the rules, and we 1967, Many Glacier 1968-70) declaring “No more Bullfrog!” had to duck down anytime a Park That was in response to a deafening vehicle came by us). Reading through the articles in the rendition of “Jeremiah Was A Bull- Spring 2017 Inside Trail called up The driver stopped and showed frog,” which floated up through the some vivid memories from decades us a green speck way down under hotel’s rafters. In subsequent sum- ago in Glacier. Here are a few of Mt. Oberlin. He said it was a Park mers, the Broadway musical held its those reflections. Service truck that had been driven opening night on July 31. by some guy in the early ‘60s who In 1968, the male lead in Fio- I loved Steve Waller’s tribute to was drunk. He went off the road rello (opposite my wife Judy as Maisie Nunan, the elderly and for- and rode the truck all the way to the female lead) was Mark Jacoby. midable First Cook. She could be a the bottom. Then he had to bush- Google him and you will see a tal- bear with the waiters and waitresses. whack back up to the road below ented person who has had a career However, I got along well with her the approach to The Loop. As the on Broadway. This may make him and always made a point of saying story goes, he was drunk when he the most successful Many Glacier “hi” and talking with her. When- left the road and was sober by the alum. I hiked to Iceberg Lake with ever I ate in the dining room and time he got to the bottom!! Over Mark and several others in June of ordered prime rib, the waiters and the years the vegetation at the bot- that year. During the hike, one of waitresses would tell Maisie and tom has covered the truck. our companions slipped and fell into I would get almost obscene blud- Ptarmigan Creek. I jumped into the John Hagen recalled lobby porters geons of beef … sometimes two or creek to keep her from going over sleepily cleaning up the St. Moritz more inches thick. I can remember the nearly one-hundred-foot-high Room at the start of their early- people at neighboring tables telling Ptarmigan Falls. That December morning shift. That sure brought their waiters and waitresses, “I’ll I received a Christmas card from back memories for me. I remember have what he is having!!” Mark, saying “Merry Christmas to how sticky the floor could get and the world’s fastest hiker.” Mac Seymour recalled that jam- how many beer bottles and glasses mers in the 1950s used to have the bartenders seemed to miss at Many Glacier often celebrated their passengers look for an the end of their shift. One of my “Christmas in July” on July 25 with imaginary bus at the bottom of the fellow lobby porters treated the bar a Christmas program in the lobby. valley, thousands of feet below a glasses on the floor as throw-away This festive celebration was followed vantage point on Going-to-the-Sun trash. He would collect the various by a New Year’s Eve celebration on Road. That story later acquired types of glasses and take them to July 31, which was a costume party some basis in fact. When a couple our lobby porter closet at the end of and dance for the employees in the of us hitchhiked to Lake McDon- Stagger Alley. He got boxes from St. Moritz Room. The celebration ald in 1968, we got a ride from was such a blowout in 1971, with a worker in a Park Service truck (Continued on page 26) raucous dancing and singing, that The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 7 The Night the Skunks Got In

(Chris and Bob Baker during their Glacier years. Photo from the Baker family collection.) By Bob Baker (National Park Service my new bride against the rawest ele- “Fine, fine, fine,” Hummel replied. 1977-87) ments of nature. We persevered He said that, really. ... and won. Of all the adventures—and mis- “And we’re honeymooning back at adventures—from the mountains I suppose I was the final GPI em- Belly River Ranger Station the first and valleys of my fifth winter in ployee ever interviewed by Don two weeks of October,” I added. “I’ll and around Glacier National Park, Hummel. The very next day he be able to start as caretaker mid- to I’d guess the defining one was the was off with his Glacier Park, Inc. late-month.” December night in 1980 when the entourage to GPI’s winter quarters “Fine, fine, fine,” repeated Hummel skunks got into the Glacier Park in Tucson, and later that winter my Lodge. paychecks started arriving by Grey- Larry Gordon, of course, changed all hound. those plans, when he got eaten by a That night overshadows getting dug rogue grizzly at Elizabeth Lake at the out of a snow cave by Hudson Bay “Fine, fine, fine,” Hummel said from head of the Belly River on Septem- District Ranger Bob Frauson and his behind his Mission 66-era desk in ber 30. Oak Blair, Goat Haunt Dis- rescue party at Three Bears Lake on the shabby, fluorescent-lit basement trict Ranger overseeing Belly, called the Continental Divide after a four- of the hotel. Chris and me in Wisconsin the day foot New Year’s Eve snow dump. It was late August, I was applying before the wedding to give us the It surpasses the winter this white to be the last winter caretaker of news: the honeymoon was over. guy worked between park seasons the historic lodge (the next year the as night dispatcher and jailer for We’d ridden in to Elizabeth on position was replaced by a string of Browning’s Tribal Police, where two horseback with Jack Potter—then closed-circuit cameras), and I’d just hours after most midnights when the head of trails in the Park—on Sep- explained to Hummel that I couldn’t saloons closed, the jailhouse was like tember 28, the day before we hiked start for him until after I finished up a rerun of Cheers—where everybody out of Belly for Chief Mountain my extended season as Park Ranger knows your name. It even eclipses and the drive to Calgary to catch in Belly River in the extreme north- the winter the cast iron Monarch our prenuptial flight to Milwaukee. east corner of Glacier, six miles in by cook stove exploded like a bomb in Coincidentally, the 28th was also trail from Chief Mountain Customs. the kitchen of the Belly River Ranger the day before Gordon arrived at Station and took out part of the “Plus I’m flying to Wisconsin the Elizabeth from Many Glacier via south wall, pieces of shrapnel land- end of September to get married,” I Ptarmigan Tunnel. We missed Larry ing up past the horses’ feed boxes 25 mentioned. (On October 4, 1980 I by a day. yards away, miraculously killing no married Chris Metzger—GPI/Rising Jack, Chris and I were making the one. Sun ‘70-72, GNP naturalist ‘73-78, final patrol of the season up the Goat Haunt backcountry ranger The night the seven skunks got into valley to pull the three Belly River ‘79-’85, and Swifty and Huckleberry the Glacier Park Lodge was different. suspension bridges before the weight Lookouts forever—at her family It was somehow watershed: me and of winter snows. We left the bridge home on Lake Michigan.) at the foot of Elizabeth for later be- 8 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail cause the autumn wind there that day There’s 20-above cold, of course, and Doors creaked and slammed in the was too ferocious off Ahern Pass. there’s 30-below bitter cold, but then dark. Windows whistled at different Tiny Moke Chalet (later Tippet Cot- there’s inside cold, and inside the pitches. Chandeliers swayed, logs tage) at the entrance to Glacier Park cavernous Glacier Park Lodge, lights settled; the lodge moaned under the Lodge was Chris’s and my home for and heat extinguished for the winter, strain of age and cold and wind. you could hang meat. the next 7 months. Emily Moke, It didn’t help that it was the same Hummel’s private secretary, sum- Which is just what James J. Hill, year The Shining came out in mered there. It looks the same today builder of great park lodges, did. theaters, Jack Nicholson as winter as forty years ago: steep-pitched roof, Buffalo and elk, deer and bear, caretaker of a snowed-in Rocky alpine frills, bright red trim and hang- mountain goat and sheep mounts Mountain lodge. Because on those ing baskets busting with red gerani- were just perceptible on the fringe windy nights, the Sheetheads came ums. Inside, tiny Moke Chalet is even [M]y job, ... as winter caretaker of Glacier Park tinier than it looks. We had to crawl Lodge, was to patrol the premises, inside and over the bed to get to the closet and walk sideways to go to the bathroom. out, all through the dead cold of night, the sole The dining and living rooms comfort- person bridging the gap between Don Hummel ably sat one. Two was a crowd. Did and higher fire insurance premiums. we care? We were newlyweds! “Fine, fine, fine,” we said. of my flashlight beam each night as alive in their lair! Their lustrous The winter of ‘80-81 was brutally I made my rounds, staring longingly white finery flapped and waved, cold in East Glacier Park. One night down from above or maybe ready to fluttered and danced on the winds in December the mercury bottomed leap at me just around that corner. blowing through that great hall. out at 40 below in the bulb of the Sheetheads, I called them, for the It was my own personal Night at thermometer outside our door. Walk- glowing white queen-sized linens the Museum. Teddy Roosevelt and ing outdoors at night, you could hear they wore as their winter drapery. Sacajawea could have shown up at aspen trees end their life in a crashing any moment. split as their heartwood froze. Break Creepy enough, especially when off a nostricle [nostricle: noun. an your flashlight caught the glow of As caretaker I walked a set route icicle hanging from your nostril] and the occasional glass eye, but on several times each night around and you could get a nosebleed. windy nights any log cabin, tight through the historic hotel—Creak! as the craftsmanship might be, is Slam! Whistle! Moan! Dancing But in winter on the eastern slope drafty, and Glacier Park Lodge, built Sheetheads!—checking doors, win- of Glacier National Park, with fero- in 1913 with massive Douglas fir dows, stairs, alleyways, porticos, and cious Chinook winds—the Blackfeet trunks reaching up into the lobby’s window wells for anything out of the called them “Snow Eater”—barreling heavens, was no exception, especially ordinary … which is how I discov- down the Front Range, it could be 40 when the Chinooks roared in at 70 ered seven skunks were inside the below at night and 60 above the next or 80 or even 90 miles an hour. Glacier Park Lodge. afternoon, a hundred degree tempera- ture shift in less than 24 hours. True! Check the Guinness records! .... Doors creaked and slammed in the And my job, it regrettably sank in, dark. Windows whistled at different pitches. as winter caretaker of Glacier Park Chandeliers swayed, logs settled, the whole lodge Lodge, was to patrol the premises, moaned under the strain of age and cold and inside and out, all through the dead cold of night, the sole person bridg- wind .... It didn’t help that it was the same year ing the gap between Don Hummel The Shining came out in theaters.... and higher fire insurance premiums.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 9 unison. I felt like any moment they’d As caretaker I walked a set route several times bust into some chorus line, the June each night around and through the historic Taylor Dancers meet Pepe Le Pew. hotel—Creak! Slam! Whistle! Moan! Dancing Their ingress soon became clear. Skunk tracks (I worked in Belly with Sheetheads!—checking doors, windows, stairs, Ranger Dave Shea, who wrote the alleyways, porticos, and window wells for book on animal tracks) ended at the anything out of the ordinary … lip of the window well. All seven had been making their rounds when they ... which is how I discovered seven skunks were tumbled, one by one, into the deep inside the Glacier Park Lodge. recess. Trapped! Taking advantage of some small chink in the window, If you can picture the Lodge, you discovered a window in one of the they worked and worked until they know it perches on a little rise across big wells out front was busted out. broke through the glass barrier, spill- the way from the old Great North- Peering into the blackness of the ing four feet onto the bed below. ern rail station. Walk down from the room, my flashlight caught the re- And here they were, 14 eyes trans- station and across the highway that flection off shards of broken glass on fixed by my jacklight. winds up past Two Medicine and on a tidy bed, five feet below. (Remem- I ruled out getting my .22 to shoot over Looking Glass toward St. Mary; ber, the front basement rooms were them, of course. I remembered from stroll along the hotel’s glorious half below ground, half above, so I my days as a young teen shoot- perennial gardens with their lupines was peering into the dark room from ing squirrels in upstate New York and larkspurs and gaillardias; climb halfway up the wall.) YRAMRIFNI that getting shot—as in dead—is the few wide steps out front; and the was stenciled on the room’s frosted generally a muscle relaxant. And Bellman opens the door for you into glass door—with kconK esaelP un- I remembered from Zoology 101 the Lodge’s historic lobby. derneath—and a big, broad red cross with Professor Molnowszki back in was splashed below. But what you can’t see is the Lodge Orono, Maine, who occasionally was built like a 1970s split level, I assessed the damage, noted the wildly flailed his left arm over his the basement in front half below time (4:45 AM), and found no head because of damage from a Nazi ground, opening to a full “daylight evidence of well ne’er-do-wells. I prison camp, that a skunk’s sphincter basement” out back facing the pool, was just turning away when, inside, is a muscle. Putting those life lessons golf course, Squaw Mountain, and a skunk rounded a large standing together: combining a muscle relax- Glacier National Park. In 1980, the white cabinet, stopped in the beam ant and a skunk’s sphincter was not dim basement at the front of the of my flashlight, and uneasily stared such a good idea, conceivably releas- building was mostly service areas for up at me. ing the skunk’s bag of delights, and the hotel: Hummel’s and GPI’s of- that—times seven—well, let’s just say “Hm,” I thought aloud. fices, work rooms, the switchboard, the aura of the Glacier Park Lodge storage, guest services … Then came a second skunk, by the would never quite be the same. same path, rounding the cabinet Each of those front rooms has its No. I was duty bound by some pri- and stepping into my beam, next to own huge sunken window well mal code to extricate them, but how? her pal, quickly followed by a third, with big paned windows, half above Leaving from whence they came was a fourth, a fifth, sixth and seventh. ground and half below, to let into out of the question: to coax them up Seven skunks, shoulder to shoulder the spaces what daylight they could. onto the bed, then up four feet of in the spotlight of my beacon, perky Those window wells, checking for wall to the busted window, then up little faces, wet little noses, beady intruders—window well ne’er-do- through the broken panes into the little eyes, luxurious business ends wells—were on my nightly patrols. deep window well where their mis- sweeping back and up in broad esses, haps began? Skunks are poor jump- It was a particularly wintry wee of front paws anxiously kneading in ers, and not quickly trained. the night in late December when I

10 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail There was one frosted-windowed construct an impermeable skunk + + + + + + door between my seven minions and chute starting at the top of the We’re not exactly positive if the the cavernous bowels of the grand wide staircase that led up from the skunks ever left. Great winds the hotel. I knew, however, the only basement in the back corner of the next three nights blew away any pos- exterior doors leading to freedom on Lodge’s main floor, winding a path sible sign of tracks. All that’s certain that level were on the back “daylight through the columned grand hall to is, the morning after, ten pounds of basement” side, facing the park, and the hotel’s front doors. We dragged kibbles were gone, every one; we had those exits were tightly battened anything and everything with a flat a lot of furniture to remember where against winter’s fury with heavy surface to line the course: dining and it came from and put back; and the wooden shutters. Besides, even if I coffee and end and writing tables, skunks that got into the Glacier Park managed to pry one of those shutters laid on edge. Mattresses from first Lodge were never seen again. open, those exits were doubly barred floor guest rooms, propped enroute. by dunes of snow, drifts ten and Over-stuffed couches tipped on Of course, the buffalo know for sure. fifteen feet high against the lee of the their backs like beached walruses. And the elk and deer and bear and lodge from the winter’s gales. My Six panel doors off their hinges. All mountain goats, gazing nostalgically wards needed another way out—up! strung in a double-walled gauntlet, from above or watching from around forming a two-foot wide channel to the corner, glass eyes aglow, wav- I had all that day to hatch a plan. funnel seven skunks from detention ing their white gowns in the wind, My night shift was over and my day to deliverance. Sheetheads cheering their fellow job began: rebuilding an old salt- creatures on to freedom. box Great Northern station house It was easy to secure the basement, brought by rail—numbered true 2x4s closing doors and blocking hallways, One morning right before he sold and square cut nails all—in 1880 so there was nowhere for the mal- GPI to Greyhound, Don Hum- from Minneapolis to Summit on the odorous seven to go but up. mel surprised me with a call on the Continental Divide; then relocated to phone from Tucson to check in. Now for the lure: a ten pound bag the southeast corner of East Glacier of Purina cat chow, borrowed from “How’re things?” he queried. “Qui- Park where you can see it on Edkins Rover, our cat, would do the trick. et?” Street. (Edkins Street was named for We spread Ocean Fish kibbles from Helen Edkins, whose adopted uncle “Well…there was a window busted just outside their cell, down the hall, was Tom Dawson, Mountain Man, out in the basement of the Lodge. up the stairs, all along their highway of Winold Reiss litho and Dawson But nothing got in,” I lied. to liberty, not enough for a feast, just Pass fame. Helen, born in 1898 and enough to keep seven hungry stink- “Fine, fine, fine” is what I remember extremely prim and proper in her ers on the hunt for more. him saying. white gloves and fur coat, would stop in and regale us with tales of East All was set. It was time. We gently Chris is still married to me, 37 years Glacier Park in the 1920’s.) knocked on the INFIRMARY door later, even though I’ve brought home because that’s what the sign politely everything from raccoons to weasels The next night Wife-of-a-Hundred- told us to do, flung it wide, propped to owls to a newborn cow (in the Days Chris and I sprang to it. We’d it open with a chair, then bolted. back seat of her VW, rescued from the middle of Highway 2 between Browning and Cut Bank.) It wasn’t We’re not exactly positive if the skunks ever left. too long after the skunks episode Great winds the next three nights blew away any that I diverged ever so slightly from possible sign of tracks. All that’s certain is, the my trajectory in wildlife manage- ment to pursue children’s and youth morning after, ten pounds of kibbles were gone; ministry, where I remain still. every one; ... and the skunks that got into the They say youth ministry is like herd- Glacier Park Lodge were never seen again. ing cats. But then, They weren’t there the night the skunks got in.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 11 The Broadway Musicals at Many Glacier Hotel given the reins at Many Glacier, he The stage on which the shows were acted was decided to stage a musical there. The first production Oklahoma!( built in 1957. It took the place of the Circular In 1961) was hastily improvised, Staircase, a legendary feature of the hotel. . . . It with light bulbs in number-ten cans remained for six decades, until the staircase was for stage lights and a few bales of straw for props. In subsequent installed again last summer. shows (The Boy Friend, Briga- doon, Carousel, South Pacific, and By John Hagen (Many Glacier The stage on which the shows were twenty more) the stagecraft grew 1970-80) acted was built in 1957. It took the more complex and ambitious. place of the Circular Staircase, a One evening in 1971, the musical The logistics required to put on legendary feature of the hotel. The I Do! I Do! was in progress in the stage shows were very demanding. staircase was torn out to expand the St. Moritz Room at Many Glacier Everything had to be done in the lobby gift shop, and a stage was Hotel. There are two characters, off-hours of employees. Rehears- built in the St. Moritz Room down- a husband and a wife. They were als had to accommodate the shifts stairs. It remained for six decades, sitting side-by-side, conversing, in of dining room waiters and cooks until the staircase was installed a big four-poster bed. Suddenly, and room clerks. If the linen truck again last summer. a packrat emerged from the wings broke down and maids had to go and marched across the stage in The stage was used for employee back to work in the evening, a re- front of the audience! The hus- talent shows in its early years. But hearsal might be disrupted. band, (Roger Stephens, who also its era of glory began with Ian Tip- Besides the actors and the musi- was director of the musical) leaped pet’s arrival as manager in 1961. cians, all sorts of employees helped out of bed in his nightgown. He Mr. Tippet was born in Devonshire, with the shows. Backdrops were rushed to the front of the stage and England and went to hotel school painted on old bedsheets. Elaborate shouted down to the conductor of in London. He won a contest sets were hammered together – the the orchestra: “Hey, Mister Leader! that brought him an internship village of Anatevka for Fiddler on You got any D-Con [rat poison] with America’s Hilton hotels. He the Roof, Snoopy’s doghouse and down there?!” learned about the lodges in Glacier Schroeder’s piano for You’re a Good This episode captured the spirit of Park and applied to work there. Man, Charlie Brown, the railroad Many’s Broadway musicals, which He then spent several summers as car full of travelling salesmen for ran every year from 1961 to 1983. manager at Lake McDonald Lodge. The Music Man. Props had to be The venue was rustic, and startling Don Hummel of Glacier Park, Inc. scavenged or purchased in Kalispell. events like the appearance of the acquired the Glacier concession in Old Mrs. Daly, the hotel seamstress, packrat were not uncommon. But late 1960. He hired Mr. Tippet as fitted costumes for the actors. the performers were talented and full-time personnel director and as The costumes were picturesque. spirited, and the shows were al- manager at Many Glacier Hotel. Who could forget the violently- ways impressive. They are a proud Mr. Tippet had a lifelong love colored oversized plaids worn by chapter in the history of the famous of music and had come to en- the salesmen in The Music Man? old hotel. joy Broadway musicals. When

12 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail Or the preposterous marching-band ago –,” and then is interrupted for The guests provided memories, too. uniforms worn by the troupe of for- frivolous reasons. In The Fantasticks, there’s a charac- est rangers in Little Mary Sunshine? ter called The Mute, who wanders One night, the actors playing his The Army-surplus uniforms from about and strikes statuesque poses, audience conspired not to interrupt. South Pacific were kept for years but does not speak. One morning They wanted to see if the mayor in a closet on Fourth Floor Main, during a run of the show, I checked (Alan Robinson) knew any more of and were sometimes pulled out for a couple out of a room. The wife the Gettysburg Address than was costume parties. remarked brightly, “We certainly in the script. Alan was equal to the enjoyed the show last night. We A wonderful spirit of community test. When the first interruption particularly liked the Mutant!” animated the whole enterprise. It failed to occur on cue, he paused emanated from Mr. Tippet. Peo- momentarily and then snapped: The Broadway musicals ended with ple’s willingness to pour off-duty “Our forefathers put forth ‘pon this Mr. Tippet’s departure in 1983. The energy into the musical sprang continent a new nation, conceived St. Moritz Room stage is no more. But from his work ethic and his color- in liberty and dedicated t’ the propo- the memories endure, and the Broad- ful personality. The big red cal- sition-all-men-created-equal!!” He way shows fill a distinguished place in endar of events posted outside his glowered at the other actors, who the heritage of Many Glacier Hotel. office (“Many’s Months of Mad- dutifully returned to the script. ness”) fired employees’ imagina- tions and motivated them to vol- unteer. But the primary motivator [T]he primary motivator was Mr. Tippet himself, was Mr. Tippet himself, striding through the halls and exhorting striding through the halls and exhorting us with us with his British accent and his his British accent and his incomparable diction. incomparable diction. Mr. Tippet introduced every show, standing in a spotlight on the curtain in front of the stage. He disarmingly would welcome guests to our “rustic old barn” of a lodge, describe its musical tradition, and praise the employees for donating time. He loved to describe walk- ing down the hallways and hearing a flute or a cello being practiced in a vacant room. Concluding, “Ladies and gentlemen, I give you Brigadoon!” (or whatever the show might be), he would stride away, as the orchestra struck up and the curtain rattled back. We all have favorite memoriesfrom those colorful shows. One of mine is from The Music Man. There’s a scene where Mayor Shinn attempts to make an Independence Day Charlie Tichenor as Snoopy in speech. Repeatedly, the mayor be- “You’re a Good Man Charlie Brown”, 1971. gins, “Four score and seven years (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.)

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 13 The Imaginarium of Ian Tippet 25 Musicals performed over a 23-year period between 1961 and 1983

Pictured from L to R: Cliff Reykdal, Robert Harkins, Tim Chandler, Cathy Crossland The Fantasticks! I Do! I Do! Pictured from L to R: Woods, Fred DeGiovanni, Steve Waller. 1971 Liz Riddell Hallagan, Roger Stephens. (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) 1971 (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) You’re a Good Man, Music Man Charlie Brown 1974 1972

Pictured from L to R: Thom O’Reilly, Pictured: Bill Rollie. (Photo Steve Anderson, Paul Taintor, Bill Rollie. courtesy of Paul Meierding.) (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.)

(Row 1, L to R: ???, William Hamer, Jeff Menzies, Bonnie Brown. Row 2: L to R: Mary Bassingthwaighte, Marlena Osborne, ???, Ron Serlen (w/banjo), Jennifer Downing, Scott Zinter, Deitz Wolfgang. (Photo courtesy of Rolf Larson.)

Pictured from L to R: John Galyean, Half a Sixpence William Hamer, Jimi Defilippis. The Fantasticks! 1979 (Photo courtesy of Rolf Larson.) 1980

14 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail The Imaginarium of Ian Tippet 25 Musicals performed over a 23-year period between 1961 and 1983

Note. There are many wonderful performances not pictured here. This selection is only limited by available photography.

Pictured from L to R: Drew Metcalf, Barefoot in the Park Pictured from L to R: Gretchen Johnson, Tessie Bundick, Chris Liz Riddell Hallagan, Roger Stephens. Vick. (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) 1972 (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) Music Man 1974 What Ian Tippet accomplished when the identity of the spiral staircase disappeared in the mid-1950’s was nothing short of magic! Pictured from L to R: Joel Swandby, Pictured from L to R: Thom O’Reilly, Carol Mabbott,Owen Anderson, Rich Steve Anderson, Paul Taintor, Bill Rollie. 110 in the Shade The artistry of the Larson, Phil Reed, Jeri Bradley. (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) 1975 hotel’s woodcraft (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) was replaced by the Directors and Crew creative energy of those who brought . . .those responsible for everything you don’t see; the magestic chalet (choreography, to life each summer. music, staging, sound, lighting, makeup, etc.)

The Fantasticks! Pictured: Byron Willford. (Photo courtesy of Rolf Larson.) 1980

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 15 The Broadway Musicals: An Anthology of Stories

We were all “created” by Mr. Tippet, and did not fully exist until he plucked each of us from our mortal existence and plopped us into that magical setting, Swiftcurrent Valley.

Glacier itself as the “musical” the summer, he would appear with not from around here.” This time, By Ken Latta (Many Glacier 1974) some snippet of wisdom and instruc- however, the circumstances permit- tion. Somehow we knew that he was ted the speaker to say “Say, you’re I played trumpet in the pit orchestra behind the whole thing! not from around here. Around here for Music Man. Terri Saunders Long we don’t wear our prayer shawls was the Orchestra Director. Fiddler on the Roof around our ankles!” I followed his I think the whole experience of By Clark Bormann (Many Glacier gaze and saw, to my horror, that that working at MGH was a “musical” 1972-73) was exactly where my prayer shawl in our lives. That we had the added In 1973, at Many Glacier Hotel, we was – around my ankles! I don’t dimension of music and theatre arts performed the musical Fiddler on remember what happened after that wonderfully complicates how anyone the Roof. I played the role of the inauspicious beginning! can sort out what wasn’t theatre. young revolutionary from Kiev. We None of the stresses on stage, how- Indeed, the musical was but a side performed 13 shows in 14 nights, ever, equaled the strain of sharing show among a continuum of staging which even then seemed a killing a production with “The Wizard,” and song running non-stop the en- pace. It was a stressful experience. Chris Vick. In Fiddler, Wizard tire summer. John Hagen’s 100-mile One night, after a very long day with played the Russian Cossack who was trek was an epic. Different people the bellman crew, I got backstage, ordered to wreck the wedding of the took on dramatic personas (e.g., put on my make-up and dressed oldest daughter. In this scene, I was “Esteban,” “Nurse Nancy,” “The in most of my costume. before I to confront him angrily before being Wizard,” “The Mad Chef,” and, of stretched out on the floor for a quick clubbed from behind by one of his course, Ray Kinley – in a class by nap before my entrance. This was troopers. himself!). And just who and what a big mistake. I was suddenly and Unfortunately, in the moments was Ian Barry Tippet but the “wise violently shaken awake by another when I had to face the Wizard, he old man” archetype, our Gandalf or actor who said they were ad-libbing had his back to the audience, and no Dumbledore? and awaiting my entrance! one but those of us upstage could see We were all “created” by Mr. Tip- I jumped up, hastily buttoning my his face. There I was, ready to attack pet, and did not fully exist until he vest but forgetting completely about him, furious and violent at the havoc plucked each of us from our mortal checking my prayer shawl before I wreaked on the wedding celebration. existence and plopped us into that raced around the corner and onto What did Wizard do? He made magical setting, Swiftcurrent Valley the stage. The line they were waiting kissy-doll faces and grinned wick- (ice fields and Ursus Horribilis – did to deliver, and the one which first edly at me! At first, I was so startled I ask for this?). To most of us during acknowledged me, was “Say, you’re that I did not react as he had hoped,

16 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail but from then on, night after night, of a TV. The guest further speculated after I left, the bass was stolen from I had a constant struggle to keep a that the evening would be boring the hotel and ended up in the Babb straight face in that scene! and amateurish. News got around Bar! The FBI was called, and the the cast. That evening, every singer instrument was taken as evidence. To Audience Interactions directed his or her songs right at that this day, I don’t know if the bass was By Sean Williams (Many Glacier guest with exaggerated facial expres- ever returned to Kalispell or if it is 1978-81) sions. To everyone’s surprise (and still in an evidence locker somewhere. In the four summers that I worked at delight), the guest came up to the I’d like to thank all those employees Many Glacier, I was involved with the cast afterward and said how thrilled who played in the pit, the regular orchestra just one season. However, she was with the performance. Many Glacier Orchestra, and the everyone learned all the songs every The Wayward Bass Many Glacier brass choir. It was a year because every employee involved By Terri (Saunders) Long (Many Gla- blast! in the musical was singing constantly. cier 1972-74, ’79) Whether from a bellman carrying Editor’s Note. Reinforcing Terri’s bags down the hall while lustily belt- Being a part of the musical was one sentiments, the energy volun- ing out “You’re a Good Man, Charlie of the highlights of working at Many teers injected into Many Glacier Brown” or from one of the ladies in Glacier. For my first two years, by Tippet’s leadership was just the pantry singing “Try to Remem- 1972-1973, I played French horn in one of many sparks that brought ber,” those of us in maid uniforms the pit orchestra under the direction the extra measure of delight to or in the employee cafeteria learned of Roger Stephens. What a wonder- enchant hotel visitors! everything. Many of the people ful experience! Every night was a Vignettes of Brigadoon and The involved in the musicals – being a cre- new experience of laughter, tears, Fantasticks ative bunch – would quickly develop and camaraderie. By Paul Schwendener (Many Glacier parodies that focused on our lives as After Roger left, Mr. Tippet asked 1980-81) Many Glacier employees. Sometimes me to direct the pit orchestra in those new words would supplant the The impetuosity of young love fuels 1974. I was both scared and proud original lyrics in our minds! the fairy-tale plot of The Fantasticks, that he had enough confidence in me the compact little show that was Some of the people in the orchestra to do something that was so close to produced at Many Glacier in 1971 would leave their instruments back- his heart. Working with such great and 1980. A boy and a girl are led stage to avoid carrying them back musicians was a total blast! I even through rituals of love, loss, suffer- and forth, to and from the dorm. had some members who were jam- ing and reunion by “El Gallo,” an One afternoon I found some guests mers who came to rehearsals and omnipotent narrator who is assisted playing instruments that employees performances even when they were by a mute and by two impoverished had left in the St. Moritz! I was in not stationed at Many Glacier for actors: Mortimer (“the one who my cafeteria employee uniform, so I the night. I appreciated all the hard dies”) and Henry the old actor. went up to them and suggested that work and dedication of all the musi- those instruments belonged to other cians … it made my job easy! I played the latter in 1980, and I people. They ignored me and kept recall the following vignettes. Cos- Not everything was rosy, however. playing, so I got very close to them tuming and make-up all had to One year I borrowed a string bass for and stood with my arms folded, happen in the cramped space be- the summer from a high school in staring at them. After about five hind the St. Moritz stage. To create Kalispell so that one our musicians minutes, they stopped and put the Henry’s wing-like hairdo I would did not have to bring an instrument instruments away. lie backwards over a chair with my from home. Everything went well, hair nearly touching the floor as I The female lead in one of the musi- but I had to leave before the season sprayed it white and hard. It had to cals – a waitress by day, lead singer by was over to return to my teaching job. keep its shape while Mortimer (Lisa night – overheard a guest complain- I had made arrangements to have the Carstens) and I were shut up in a ing about having to go watch the string bass returned to Kalispell. But box onstage waiting for the grand musical rather than relaxing in front

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 17 sword fight. Let the world grow cold around us, Bill Rollie was an actor, the Man Let the heavens cry above! Who Dies. It was arranged that he The darkness of that box was light- Brigadoon, Brigadoon, should die a different death at each ened by the ethereal music provided In thy valley, there’ll be love! performance. My favorite episode by harpist Nick Newcomb and the was when he choked to death on a John Damberg Trio. My favorite Death by Potato Chips bag of potato chips. (I wonder if memory is of a moment of calm that By Steve Waller (Many Glacier 1969, they were brand name or generic?) occurred each night after Mortimer ’71, ’76) and I made our final exit following The Fantasticks I was in two of Many Glacier’s a raucous romp through Venice and By Cathy Crossland Woods (Many Broadway musicals, Threepenny Bombay. Rushing through the star- Glacier 1971) Opera in 1969 and The Fantasticks tled audience, we burst out the side in 1971. The best part of participat- Playing the role of Luisa in The Fan- door of the St. Moritz Room. There ing in both was to be involved with tasticks was on my bucket list before we suddenly found ourselves alone so many (pun intended!) talented I had ever heard of a bucket list! It on the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake, people with great voices and acting was a double thrill since actually get- under a canopy of stars, or bathed ability and putting together a quality ting to do the show meant that Texas in moonlight. As we walked around production with limited resources. Tech University was well-represented to the backstage entrance (via the Threepenny had a large cast and I two years in a row. My TTU room- Lucerne Room) I would look up at was in the minor role of a cop in ie, Terrie Stewart, had played the the peak of Mt. Henkel that seemed the chorus numbers. The leads were title role in Little Mary Sunshine the to lose its outline in the Milky Way. very good and we cast members had summer before, and she had con- Fantastical indeed. a great time together. vinced me to apply for a job in 1971. Mt. Henkel also conjures up a I’m so thankful that she did! In 1971, I was fortunate to play El memory from the following year’s Gallo in The Fantasticks. While that I remember so clearly standing on production of Brigadoon, for which role was that of a narrator/scoun- the small stage rehearsing at lunch- I conducted the orchestra. The drel, it had one of the great songs. time or late in the afternoon after play’s story concerns a magical com- “Try to Remember” was a treat to getting all my rooms cleaned – with munity in the Scottish highlands sing, accompanied by a harp. And a my maid partner extraordinaire, that appears out of the mist, and all fantastic harpist made that a musical Joyce Daugaard. Looking out on the too quickly vanishes – rather like memory I’ll never forget. beautiful lake and the mountains cer- a summer at Many Glacier. In the tainly helped spark my imagination midst of the show’s run, several of us That was a wonderful show with as I sang lyrics such as “I’d like to decided on a lark to climb Mt. Hen- fantastic (also pun intended) per- swim in a clear blue stream where the kel after one of the performances. formers overall and excellent musi- water is icy cold…” or “Hear how Thus on a midnight in August we cians in the small orchestra. One the wind begins to whisper. Smell set out from the St Moritz Room, particular number which I sang was how the velvet rain is falling out and under a full moon made our entitled “Rape.” The play made clear where the fields are warm and dry...” ascent, reaching the peak sometime that the word was used in the sense after 3:00 am. The air was warm of “abduction,” and we went ahead Luisa is such a fanciful character, but and balmy, and we slept soundly on and performed it as written. But I another joy of doing that intimate top of the world. After watching the have noticed that the song was wisely little show was being the only girl sunrise, we descended quickly to re- cut from the movie, and it probably in the cast! Bill Rollie, Steve Waller, port for our morning shifts at Many. has been removed from the musical Cliff Reykdal, Chris Vick, Tim altogether in later years. Chandler, Fred DeGiovanni, and Brigadoon, Brigadoon, Robert Harkins were a hoot to work Blooming under sable skies. Cathy Crossland Woods played the with – and so talented! The musi- Brigadoon, Brigadoon, daughter, Chris Vick was another cians who played for the show were There my heart forever lies. scoundrel, and Fred DiGiovanni incredible as well. Imagine trekking and Cliff Reykdal were the fathers. across the country with a harp! (And

18 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail I don’t mean a harmonica!) After the budget, with a minimal set and a few Moritz Room stage was tiny with last performance, I learned another musicians, or just a piano. But it no fly space and hardly any wings. of the many crazy fun traditions of worked, and for us kids it was great! Our dressing room was a bathroom. MGH: the throwing of the cast into We got to stay up well past our None of these obstacles seemed to the lake!!! BRRR!!! bedtime, which was quite a treat for matter, however, as we had a won- a 9-year old! derful director, Roger Stephens, for Tom Jones and Harvey Schmidt many of these theatrical ventures. wrote another great small cast show For the kids, it was a special ending Roger also helmed the full orchestra that was also presented that sum- to an unusual summer. The 1964 which was crammed to the gills with mer: I Do! I Do! The two characters season was the year of the great marvelous young musicians. The were well played by Liz Riddell and flood. It started with the Many Gla- student actors and singers were so Roger Stephens. Roger was the as- cier Road being washed out partially talented. Many of them went on to sistant manager of the hotel and the or totally in several places, as were stellar careers in the arts. director of the musicals for many several key trail bridges. Everybody years. I think I enjoyed watching had to get a series of three Typhoid In 1973, we mounted a memorable their performances as much as I shots. And for me, it was the last production of the beloved musical, loved being in The Fantasticks! full summer I would spend in Gla- Fiddler on the Roof. I was cast as cier until young adulthood, when I Golde and I enjoyed every minute Carousel spent five summers working for GPI, of the whole process. There was a By John Mark Sanman (Many Glacier culminating as Many Glacier’s Night great spirit amongst the cast, crew 1975-76) Auditor in 1976. and musicians. Everyone worked My recollection of the 1964 musical, so hard under sometimes trying Carousel, was from the point of view The Entertainment Experience circumstances. We rented the cos- of a child – because I was one in By Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier 1972- tumes, scenery was made on site and that show. There were several Many 73, ’76-80) somehow placed on the small stage Glacier rangers and ranger natural- When I remember my participation leaving enough room for the actors. ists that year who had children, and in the entertainment programs at We had good lighting equipment. we were recruited for the play. This Many Glacier Hotel in the 1970’s, The production was a resounding was not a big deal as there were but I recall great joy and fun. Mr. Ian success. Fiddler was just one of many two scenes in which we were needed. Tippet, the manager of this Rocky musicals and plays presented in the The first scene was the Overture, Mountain inn, instigated these St. Moritz Room. I was personally where Billy Bigelow is shown to be diverting amusements to give the cast in two more shows and did tech- a great carnival barker. The second guests a happy experience while on nical work on others. scene (pictured) was Mr. Snow’s their vacations in this isolated Glacier “fleet of little kids” that taunted Park location. He hired collegiate The actors were not paid with Louise Bigelow years after the death theatre and music majors and we all money, just delightful memories. We of her father, Billy. convened in those magic summers to happily gave up many hours of hik- ing and personal time to devote to The cast was wonderful. I recall one do hotel jobs and put on shows. the entertainment programs at this guy who had particularly devilish- Conditions were not ideal. Re- wonderful, historical hotel. The pro- looking makeup serenading us with hearsals for the full blown musicals ceeds were used to buy new equip- “There’s No Business Like Show that we produced were often at late ment for future presentations. Business” at post-show cast meetings. hours in cramped quarters. Our St. Carousel was one of the early mu- sicals that took place just a few years after the “reign of terror” that Indeed, the musical was but a side show among eliminated the spiral staircase, which a continuum of staging and song running non- made room for the St. Moritz stage. stop the entire summer. Performances were on a shoestring

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 19 Producing the Musicals By Ian B. Tippet (Glacier Park career planning placement offices at makeup, programs, printing, and 1955-2014) colleges nationwide. It advertised fees for shipping instruments “Summer Jobs in Glacier National (harps, etc.). I was the location manager in 1960 Park,” with an emphasis on stu- at Lake McDonald Lodge. One The director was paid a $500 fee. dents in hotel and restaurant work, sunny Sunday afternoon, I was No other employees were paid at culinary arts, accounting, transpor- approached unannounced by a all. The actors, musicians, and tation, and music and theater. gentleman who introduced himself others generously donated thou- as Don Hummel. He told me that I used Peterson’s Guide for my mail- sands of free off-duty hours. We he was the new concessioner for ing to placement offices – a massive had great community solidarity. Glacier, starting in 1961. task. The mailing brought me over Many guests planned their hotel 25,000 application requests every reservations every summer around Mr. Hummel had plans for me, year. The mail came in daily in grey the dates of the Broadway musical seemingly mapped out weeks postal bins. It took two of us three performances. before. He told me that I would hours or so, daily, to open be his Vice President for Personnel and organize the mail! and his location manager at Many Glacier Hotel. I would be his I selected the Broadway Many Glacier Hotel Musicals “chief right hand,” along with his musical for Many Glacier 1961 Oklahoma! nephew and General Manager, Al one year in advance. That 1962 The Boy Friend Donau. My first responsibility was way, I knew what instru- 1963 Brigadoon to eliminate 400 of the 1,200 jobs ments were needed for the 1964 Carousel in the Glacier/Waterton operations. pit orchestra when I hired 1965 South Pacific staff for the hotel. I had organized amateur talent 1966 Guys and Dolls shows by employees whilst man- Don Hummel gave me a 1967 How to Succeed in Business aging Lake McDonald Lodge. I fat loan each year to cover Without Really Trying decided that such programs could royalty and rental fees to 1968 Fiorello be vastly improved at Many Gla- New York agents. The 1969 Three Penny Opera cier if I recruited performers for the loan had to be paid back 1970 Little Mary Sunshine staff there. from box office receipts. 1971 The Fantasticks / I Do! I Do! The most we charged was 1972 You’re A Good Man, Charlie In the fall of 1960, Mel Ruder of $3.50 per seat for around Brown / Barefoot in the Park The Hungry Horse News took his 175 to 200 seats. After 1973 Fiddler on the Roof Leica camera aloft on a mission paying back the loan, 1974 The Music Man for me. He took an aerial shot of profits went to purchase 1975 One Hundred and Ten in Many Glacier Hotel, which I used lighting equipment, sound the Shade on a brochure that was sent to all equipment, costumes, 1976 Promises, Promises 1977 Company 1978 You’re A Good Man, I had organized amateur talent shows Charlie Brown by employees whilst managing Lake 1979 Half A Sixpence 1980 The Fantasticks McDonald Lodge. I decided that such 1981 Brigadoon programs could be vastly improved at 1982 How to Succeed in Business Many Glacier if I recruited performers for Without Really Trying the staff there. 1983 Kiss Me, Kate

20 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail Directing the Musicals In our youth, we had the energy, In our youth, we had the energy, drive, and love drive, and love of performance of performance that made the experience of those that made the experience of those Many Glacier musicals magical. Many Glacier musicals magical. Rehearsing during off hours for a month and a half while putting in a By Chip Smith (Many Glacier 1975- portunities for students to learn by full day’s work, then doing evening 76, 78, 84) doing and to grow from experience. shows that started around 9:30 (if My friend Tessie Bundick has The summer of ‘75 began with a the dining room got out on time), always described Glacier as “magi- huge flood. Roger came to Mon- with the quality and joy it took, was cal!” Having spent the prime of tana in the midst of it on what was remarkable. Those of you who know my youth in Glacier, I think that my supposed to be a quick trip to cast how demanding it is to do a full soul has an understanding of that the musical. He could not get to the production even if you are resting word. To experience the physical hotel due to washouts on the road for most of the day will understand. beauty of the park is one thing, but from Babb. A group of us hopped But it was certainly one of the best to spend a whole summer working into the laundry truck and drove times of my life. Sneaking into the hard, with no TV or radio (or, God down as far as the road would take kitchen to scarf leftover desserts in forbid, social media), you had to us. We crossed the washout on foot the wee hours of the morning with rely on interpersonal communica- and hiked the rest of the way into cast mates is a lasting memory that I tions. Friendships were made that Babb. I met Roger at Thronson’s have always treasured. last for a lifetime. Motel and sat down for a crash I’ve been blessed with many won- course on how to cast a musical. I have spent my life being able to derful students in my teaching create music as a singer, conductor, The talents of so many fine per- career. Students that I have so much teacher, and director. I was blessed formers made the job of casting pride in. Students that I have had to have as a mentor Mr. Roger Ste- difficult. However, we assembled the privilege to see grow and turn phens at the University of Nebraska- a superb cast, and rehearsals were into fine young men and women. Lincoln. Roger set my path to being soon underway. Roger came back a musician when I was a freshman taking a music course. I had come [My Glacier family] has always held a great piece to UNL to play football but found of my heart. Roger [Stephens] left this earth a few my way into the Men’s Glee Club for an easy A. I thought that maybe years ago. I have been so blessed by his teaching I could sing, and I found my way. and his gifts and by so many Glacier experiences. In 1975, Roger cast me as the King Mr. Tippet, you are in my heart and soul. You are in The King and I at UNL. Then he the reason that there is music in the Rockies!!! told me about Many Glacier Hotel, where he had worked for years as a month later to stage the show and Students who have been successful Musical Director. He needed an as- prepare the orchestra. But he unex- raising their own families. sistant to help prepare the music for pectedly had to go home to Nebras- My family of Glacier friends has 110 In The Shade. He said that he ka, and so I was given another crash always held a great piece of my would recommend me for a position lesson in how to conduct a show. heart. Roger left this earth a few if I was interested. So I signed a That summer set the foundation years ago. I have been so blessed contract as a Bellman/Lobby Porter for my forty-year career teaching by his teaching and his gifts and (normally a 2nd or 3rd year job) with college music and directing college by so many Glacier experiences. the added position of Musical As- musicals. Meanwhile, I returned to Mr. Tippet, you are in my heart and sistant. This was a major life lesson Many Glacier for Promises, Prom- soul. You are the reason that there for me – good teachers provide op- ises in ‘76 and Company in ‘77. is music in the Rockies!!!

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 21 “Mantying Up:” Wrangling to Sperry Chalet

Lake McDonald wranglers of 1976: Ed Guers, Dave Gant, Bill Yenne, Jim Scottorasano, Rusty Hendrickson, and John Gilbert. Photo courtesy of John Gilbert.

ingenious chained link harness designed By John Gilbert (Lake McDonald 1975; ment of the early American West. Rusty by Rusty. Wrangler 1976-77) will go down in movie history as one of the most influential horsemen of our These boxed supplies were dropped During the summers of 1976 and 1977 I generation although you will never hear off the night before by Lanny Luding, was part of a team that worked the horse him say that. organized in 100 pound stacks. Then concession at Lake McDonald Lodge. the science of “mantying up” was taught We were employed by Rocky Mountain Other team members included Bill to us by Rusty and Bill Yenne. The word Outfitters, owned and operated by Bud Yenne and Dave Gant, both from Mon- “manty” is derived from a Spanish word Ellman of Columbia Falls, Montana. tana, Jim Scottorasano from California, that means “blanket.” For a packer, these Bud was a classic Montana cowboy right Ed Guers from Pennsylvania and my large pieces of waterproof canvas are used out of central casting; tall and lean, with childhood friend Dan Lennon from to wrap boxed groceries and supplies. an omnipresent black Stetson always Buffalo. Debbie Schoenfeld Hendrick- cocked to the side, mischievous grin and son was our amazing cook and house Supplies are weighed and organized for wicked sense of humor. manager. Rusty had assembled a terrific similar shapes and sizes with the heaviest group of solid individuals who always boxes on the bottom and lighter at the We were led by Rusty Hendrickson, a had each other’s back. top. Manty ropes are then used to tightly native son of Montana and an amaz- wrap supplies into a waterproof cocoon ing horseman who went on to have a One of our main responsibilities was to using rope and diamond hitch knots. legendary career in the movie business supply both Sperry and Granite Park participating in literally every major Chalets with fuel and food throughout Rusty had done this work the summer western over the past 35 years. His lat- the summer. Every week we would before and Bill had spent fifty years of est and last project, a Netflix miniseries refresh their cupboards and pantries his life packing horses and repairing entitled “Godless,” showcases his broad with 2000 pounds of supplies including trails in Glacier. He was 67 years old talent and skill over seven hours of film. eggs, flour, butter, meat and propane. when he worked with us. He is a mem- This work reveals all that Rusty brought Transport was made via horseback – ten ber of the Cowboy Hall of Fame and to the art of story telling, incredible packhorses, 200 pounds each. Eggs were worked as hard as the rest of us twenty horse training and the impact that this carted in panniers, groceries mantied in year olds did. He was also a great story- four legged animal had on the develop- rope and canvas, while propane tanks teller of the history of Glacier. We were were secured on pack saddles with an all better people having known him. 22 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail These were amazing days, filled with At that moment I knew I must have of bear, eagle and moose and squealed sweat, anticipation and ultimately the done something right. with delight when they saw the moun- smiling faces of the lucky women that tain goats that thrived around the chalet. Kay was petite, not even five feet tall, worked the chalets all summer. Rides had long silver hair and wore wire Some visitors did the round trip in a day up were filled with constant fear of a rimmed glasses. She had a quick wit, and others hiked on to Lake Ellen Wil- wreck. The two one hundred pound clear focus on what needed to get done son and Gunsight Pass, using the chalet packs on each horse had to remain bal- and a really strong opinion on how to as a base camp. Sperry Glacier was a anced throughout the ride. You had to do it. She never hesitated to let people unique highlight enjoyed by many, and constantly monitor the D-rings on the know how she wanted things done and due to its close proximity, the original ten pack saddles behind you or trouble people always listened. I am not sure reason for the chalet’s location. These would ensue. Wrecks were really ugly when she instituted the policy of women were people who yearned to drink up and dangerous and avoided at all cost. employees only but I am sure it was the Sperry’s ancient spirit, to sense the en- Once the successful trek up the moun- result of some larger strategic plan. ergy of those that had come before and tain was complete, time spent at either to feel the power of nature at its finest. There is a plaque at Sperry in Kay’s of these magical places was always mem- This is the legacy of Sperry – not stone, honor quoting her saying to a guest in orable and epic. Each had a unique mortar, wood and glass but Sacred mo- 1981 how important it was to “pay at- energy and vibe and both stirred ancient ments of clarity and love shared among tention” while at Sperry because “what- emotions rooted deep inside one’s soul family, friends and strangers. ever happens to you today will never The Sprague Creek Fire last summer and happen again.” If nothing else, Kay was I firmly believe that every time I left the ultimate burning of Sperry Chalet always in the moment. She left us in Sperry I had become a different person, brought back many memories. As I 2000 in Fort Collins, Colorado but I am enriched with a new found energy and monitored the fires from my office in confident her gentle spirit will be guid- humbled by the majesty that was and New York City via the Internet, I was ing the carpenters and other craftsmen still is Sperry. Always so grateful for the struck by the fact that although the phys- as they rebuild the chalet. opportunity to have been there. Always ical side of Sperry burned, this special a bit sad to leave. Despite the fires this As wranglers, we were the chalet’s lifeline place was so much more than just a stone spirit of nature cannot be taken away. to the outside world, bringing not only walled building with a wood beamed In fact, in the future it will become more supplies but also mail and messages from supported roof. It had its own spirit and poignant than ever. There is a reason the valley below. In appreciation of us energy derived in part from the people this place was chosen to be what it is being reliable couriers, several of Kay’s who had worked there, the hardy folk and it has nothing to do with architec- employees would fill Sprague Creek that visited, and all the collective, cher- ture, engineering, roofs or walls. It has Valley with the wafting music of flute ished moments people had experienced everything to do with what connects all and fiddle as we made the final ascent while visiting. Its physical location deep of our hearts as One. through the pines, past the waterfalls of in the wilderness that is Glacier National Sprague Creek and finally to the stone Will the chalet be rebuilt? I believe so. Park allowed generations of people to walled chalet. On horseback, reaching Will it be difficult and expensive? With- experience the serene power of nature for the crescendo of the ride and hearing out a doubt. But when the final nails more than one hundred years. this heartfelt serenade still warms my attach the last shingles to a rebuilt chalet Kay Luding ran Sperry for decades heart today, over four decades later. and its new support timbers (lumbered beginning in 1954. We would take her from this year’s national Christmas tree In addition to our weekly pack trips, crew up in the late spring and bring in Washington, DC) once again provide round trips were made daily to bring them down in the late summer. She was shelter to hikers and riders of all ages, families from around the United States an amazing leader and ran the chalet new stories will be created and new ad- and world to Sperry. We brought up with a firm hand. This was her happy ventures experienced. Most importantly soon-to-be brides and grooms, families place and nothing tasted better than a the spirit of Sperry will continue to live on reunion and urns filled with the ashes big piece of her fresh baked pie after a on and grow ... available to all those who of loved ones to be scattered in the west- successful pack trip. are blessed to see and feel her wonder. erly winds. People wanted to hear stories I never really knew where I stood with Kay. She was all business, but one trip These were people who yearned to drink up after I had finished lunch and went to Sperry’s ancient spirit, to sense the energy of check the horses, there was an extra piece of pie waiting for me when I came those that had come before and to feel the back into the Chalet to say good bye. power of nature at its finest.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 23 “One Small Step” at Sperry Chalet By Dr. Albert Manville (Many Gla- class in Glacier for Johns Hopkins Chalets. The guests and the staff cier 1969) University. (I’ve been an adjunct were all tightly gathered around a professor for Johns Hopkins for 18 battery-powered radio. To our as- I’m a wildlife biologist. All told, years.) I hope to teach this class tonishment and surprise, we heard I’ve spent all or parts of seven sum- again in 2019. the live transmission from Neil mers doing independent grizzly bear Armstrong on the moon: “… one research in Glacier National Park Glacier, for me, is an incredibly small step for man, one giant leap (primarily on human-grizzly inter- special place with some wonder- for mankind.” It still sends shivers actions). My interest was first moti- ful memories (and yes, some very down my spine. vated by two summers in the Many frightening, too-close, too-personal Glacier valley, where my father was encounters with grizzly bears – for- To have lost the Sperry Chalet a Park Service ranger-naturalist. tunately, just bluff charges). One bunkhouse to the Sprague Fire is memory, however, truly stands out. deeply saddening. I only hope that During the late 1960s I worked with this loss will provide a wake-up colleagues on the challenges of griz- On July 20, 1969, a friend and I call for our urgent need to address zly management. This coincided who had just “limited out” on our climate change. I will continue to with issues leading up to and fol- quota of brook trout fishing in Lake do my part as an educator, biologist lowing the “night of the grizzlies.” Ellen Wilson arrived at Sperry and advocate to make this happen. In 1969, I worked as a bartender at Many Glacier Hotel and played there in a mediocre rock band (“Cra- zy Al and the Midnight Raiders”). To have lost the Sperry Chalet bunkhouse to the Sprague Fire is deeply saddening. I only hope During the 1970s and 1980s, I continued field research in Gla- that this loss will provide a wake-up call for our cier. During the summer of 2016, urgent need to address climate change. I taught a graduate Wildlife Man- agement and Conservation Biology Thanks to our generous donors! The Glacier Park Foundation Don Day Joseph Lozon gratefully thanks the many gener- Henry Elsen and Andree Larose Gary McKercher Lynda Morin (in memory of Donald ous donors who’ve contributed Norbert and Cheryl Fante Margaret Fishbeck Beatty) funds beyond their membership Sondra and William Fondren Sally Mueller dues. GPF remains an all-volun- Sylvia Geshell Ken and Marnie Myhre teer effort. We deeply appreciate Guy and Joan Gunzberg (in honor of Gary Newgard the extra contributions which Don Rubovits) Judy Pigott Mark Schneider help fund our projects and our John Hagen Douglas Hill Steven Schultz publications. Phil Holtegaard Paul Schwendener Rick and Mark Beatty (in memory of Robert and Sheila Jacobson Jane Scribner (in honor of Homer and Donald Beatty) Kristin Kavanagh Kassie Rae Owen Scribner) Peter Bechtel Jim Kelly McNeil Seymour George Bristol Beverly Kennedy Benjamin and Kristan Sias Tammy Kuntz Jim Thompson Rolf Larson Carl Van Valkenburg 24 Summer 2018 The Inside Trail ☐ ☐ George and Carolyn Woodbury CORRECTION: Walking with a Grizzly The Fall 2017 Inside Trail included a photograph (on page 6) of horses approaching Granite Park Chalet. The In the confusion of scrambling to get on the boat, photo, mistakenly credited to my daughters ended up with both bear sprays, the Ray Djuff Collection, was taken by Chris Peterson, editor but for such a short hike we weren’t concerned. of The Hungry Horse News. We sincerely regret the error.

By Sarah Gates (Visitor 1965- at the dock, we headed out on a away. I kept talking loudly and, 2017) short hike down the lake, thinking after the next bend, told the girls we might meet them on the trail. to run all the way back to the boat I’ve had a long history with Glacier dock. Charlie, my husband, with Park. When I was sixteen, I took a In the confusion of scrambling to get a partial paralysis, is only able to summer geology course taught by on the boat, my daughters ended up walk slowly, and every time we had an Explorer Scout leader at Lewis with both bear sprays, but for such a short straight-away, I would look and Clark High School in Spo- a short hike we weren’t concerned. back to see the bear following us. kane. Afterwards, he led twenty of After twenty minutes of running It took us about ten long minutes to the students on a two-week back- and jumping, Scarlet (12) and Annie reach the boat dock to find the girls packing trip through the park. It (5) were still full of energy and I alone and hysterical, because they was an arduous hike. One day we felt wary, asking them to stay close thought the bear had killed us!! walked twenty miles, each of us in case there was a “bear”, which carrying our own tents and clothes. I spelled out so I wouldn’t alarm Meanwhile, Kimber and Wendy We spent one night sleeping in the Annie. She paid no attention and a were hiking up the lake towards campground at the Granite Park minute later was skipping down the us when they saw fresh bear tracks Chalet, where they fed the bears at trail twenty feet in front of us when which finally exited the trail shortly dusk so the tourists could see them. I saw a grizzly bear coming around before the cut-off to the boat dock. We shined our flashlights in their the next bend in the trail only thirty When we saw them, my greatest eyes from the campsite. Two years feet in front of her. fear was telling Kimber that her later, two girls were killed by a five-year-old daughter had literally In a firm, low voice, I said, grizzly near the same campground. almost run into a grizzly bear! “There’s a bear! Get back here to Our son and daughter both worked me right now!” Oblivious that she It was a beautiful bear, probably 2 at Many Glacier Lodge the summer was headed right into a bear, she years old, with a perfectly round after their first year in college. Sev- turned, stalled, and then walked head and small round ears, and eral years later, Wendy taught math towards me. We hustled them in a golden hump. We didn’t get a to the Blackfeet Indians in Browning front of us, and told them to walk photo. Didn’t really care to at the and bought a home in East Glacier as fast as they could without run- time! Charlie said it was almost Park. She now rents out two VRBO ning. I looked back and the bear cute, and it never threatened us. houses and we visit her often. was still coming only fifty feet Just walked down the trail with us! We just finished a trip there with our older daughter, Kimber, and It was a beautiful bear, probably 2 years old, her two girls. On the last day, my with a perfectly round head and small round husband and I decided we would take our grand-daughters on the ears, and a golden hump. We didn’t get a boat ride to the north end of Two photo. Didn’t really care to at the time! Charlie Medicine Lake, while our daugh- said it was almost cute, and it never threatened ters hiked up the trail to meet us at the boat dock. We knew it would us. Just walked down the trail with us! take them longer, so after arriving The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 25 An Unscheduled Stop By Dan O’Connor (Jammer 1964-65) be a memorable trip, folks, and I He got good tips, and his peeps had doubt you will ever forget it!” Then a story to tell. Soon all the jammers It was the summer of ‘64, my first he used EVERY bit of the material knew and were telling the story, and year as a jammer. When we arrived that we’d been studying the last few it became jammer lore forever. the park had had massive flooding, weeks, and a lot of improv! and we weren’t even sure that we The other jammer and I have re- would have a job. But after a long When we got back with the new mained friends over the years. We delay, the Park finally opened. We bus, he and his passengers climbed even attended the 2010 jammer re- had been studying our geology and aboard, and off we went. His peeps union together, where he reluctantly park history and funny park stories, were very nice and understanding. allowed me to tell this story on him! because as you know we often had to entertain our peeps for hours at a Of course, my poor fellow jammer had to time. entertain his passengers all the time that I was When our first trip finally arrived, off I drove from Glacier Park Lodge gone. He told them, “I told you that this (our headquarters then) with one fel- would be a memorable trip, folks, and I doubt low jammer. We nervously headed you will ever forget it!” Then he used EVERY out on our very first adventure. bit of the material that we’d been studying the About 40 minutes out, but before last few weeks, and a lot of improv! we got to anything really scenic, the other jammer pulled over and stopped. I wondered, why would he (“Many Glacier Miscellany” from page 7) stop here in this flooded barren spot? the Gift Shop and would collect a one. I ended up looking all over After a minute or so, he sheepishly boxful of each type of glass and the place and through the trash for walked back to my bus, leaned in, then ship them to his home. He that earring. No luck with the ear- and said in total embarrassment, “I was still working on his box of ring; lots of luck with Judy!! We ran out of gas.” I had to laugh at brandy snifters when Mr. Tippet celebrated the 50-year anniversary that. After all of our extra time to inspected our closet and discovered of that meeting on June 17th. prepare, he had forgotten the most what he was doing. Mr. Tippet had basic essential – FUEL! to explain the fact that the glasses could be washed and used again!! I had to explain to my peeps what had happened, and then I had to My other, and more dear, memory drive them back to our point of of sleepily cleaning the St. Moritz departure. I told Deacon, the trans- is seeing and meeting my wife Judy port agent, what had happened. He for the first time. I groggily looked had quickly to send another bus (full over towards the employees’ side of gas this time) to pick up those of the room early one morning, and poor folks who were stuck! there was this good-looking girl I had not seen or met. She seemed Of course, my poor fellow jammer to be looking for something. So to (Photo of the Moke / had to entertain his passengers all help, and more importantly to meet Tippet cabin in East the time that I was gone. He told this girl, I went over to her. Judy Glacier. Photo from the them, “I told you that this would had borrowed earrings and had lost Baker Collection.)

26 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail You’re a Good Man, You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown Charlie Brown 1972 1978

(Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) (Photo courtesy of Rolf Larson.)

For 23 years, casts large and small filled the St. Moritz Stage six days a week during the month of August. The experience was live. Be it poignant or bewildering, it was alive with drama, music and youthful practical jokes.

The Fantasticks! 1980

Music Man (Photo courtesy of Rolf Larson.) (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) 1974 The Fantasticks! 1971

(Photo courtesy of (Photo courtesy of Paul Meierding.) Half a Sixpence Rolf Larson.) 1979

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ 27 Diane Steele Sine worked at Many Glacier Hotel as a pantry girl and waitress 1980-1983. She has worked for the NPS as a seasonal ranger since 1984 and currently supervises the interpretive division at Many Glacier.

Sperry Chalet dormatory, June 2018, after burning in the Sprague Fire nine months before. The outer walls made it through them winter. Now is the time to add the structure within those walls. (Photo courtesy of the Glacier Park Conservancy.)

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law. (Panorama by Christine Baker)

28 ☐ Summer 2018 ☐ The Inside Trail