CHAPTER 1. 1965, Directed Reassignment to Glacier National Park, Montana
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1 CHAPTER 1. 1965, Directed Reassignment to Glacier National Park, Montana The day before our move, Mary T. had fallen off a clothes line pole (while hanging by the insides of her knees) and injured her right arm. Dr. Carr, at Mammoth, had examined it and told us it was not broken, but I thought that the pain seemed severe for only a sprain. After the moving van was loaded, we drove out of Mammoth on the afternoon of 20 May 1965. Mary T.'s arm continued to cause serious pain and nausea. We went only as far as Livingston, Montana, and spent the night in a motel on the southern edge of town. The moving van also stopped for the night in Livingston. The night was unusually cold for late May and all of Pat’s house plants in the van froze. Fortunately, she had kept a few of her favorites in our car and we took them into the motel room where they were safe from cold. Driving from Livingston to Kalispell on the 21st, we kept T.’s arm in a sling; I still thought that it was broken. By the time we arrived in Kalispell, 35 miles from GNP, we were convinced that T.'s arm should be x-rayed. Kerry had a cold that had gotten much worse. We arrived in Kalispell well after business hours, but needed to find a doctor. Dr. Baskett, our physician in Livingston, had referred us to a group of doctors in Kalispell. Dr. Gene Hensler was on call and he was a friendly, helpful M.D. He x-rayed Mary T.’s arm and found that it had a greenstick fracture, requiring a cast, which he applied. He diagnosed Kerry with pneumonia and sent him to the Kalispell hospital. With the help of Dr. Hensler we got a motel room in Kalispell for all of us, except poor Kerry, who had to remain in the hospital overnight. The next morning (22nd) we all went to see how Kerry was doing. The nurse reported that he was very unhappy and had climbed out of his crib. They had put a “roof’ on it to keep him in. Kerry was on an antibiotic and the doctor felt that Kerry should remain in the hospital one more night. Our moving van was due to arrive in GNP that day (22nd), so I had to leave the family in Kalispell and drive to the Park to find out where we were going to live and to meet the moving van. Dr. Hensler offered to let Pat borrow a car while I was gone. Our move from Mammoth (YNP) to West Glacier (GNP) was 450 road miles north and 3,000 feet lower in elevation (Mammoth 6,200 feet above sea level (asl) and West Glacier 3,200 feet asl. Approaching West Glacier on Highway 2, the view of the Livingston Range, in the heart of the Park, was very impressive. The moving van had arrived at Park Headquarters and I spent the better part of the day helping to unload it. I spent that first night alone in our new home. The house (#66) was a standard Mission 66, 3-bedroom structure with a full basement, built in 1961. The standard floor plan was designed by the NPS Design Center in San Francisco, where many of the Mission 66 structures were designed. Rent was $24 per pay period (2 weeks). I returned to Kalispell on the morning of the 23rd. Kerry was released from the hospital and we drove to our new home in GNP. Arrival in our new dwelling was followed within a few days by cases of the mumps for Kevin, then for Pat, Jane, and Mary T. (Mary T. had the mumps on one side in 1959). The West Glacier Elementary School, with three teachers (grades 1-6), had been completed in 1961. It was within easy walking distance (about one mile) of the GNP housing area. Beyond sixth grade, students were bussed to Columbia Falls (17 miles). During 1965 and the first half of 1966, the West Glacier access to the Park and the Going-to-the-Sun (GTS) Road was the street that passed by our front yard. The June 1964 Flathead Middle Fork flood had damaged the main Middle Fork Bridge beyond use. This 2 bridge had provided the westside access to the Park. An older bridge, upstream a half mile from the main bridge, had not been used for automobile traffic for many years. It was a concrete arch (a Melan Arch, similar to the old Chittenden Bridge near Canyon, in YNP), with wood decking. The flood had stripped the decking off the arch, but did not substantially damage the arch. After the flood, the decking was rapidly replaced and the old road through the Headquarters housing area was paved. It became the westside access until the main bridge (a metal structure) was rebuilt and opened in summer 1966. Thus, we had heavy traffic passing our front yard for a year; this meant concern for the childrens’ safety, especially bike riding, or any activity in the front yard. The Superintendent required that no toys o f’junk” be left in front yards, so that incoming visitors would see a tidied-up community. The NPS fenced our back yard, providing a measure of safety. On the morning of 24 May, I entered on duty as a Supervisory Park Naturalist, GS-9, with a salary of $7,710 per annum. My supervisor was Chief Park Naturalist Francis Elmore. Francis was hyperactive and seemed to agonize over every decision, no matter how inconsequential. I had the feeling that Francis never seemed very “comfortable” as my supervisor, perhaps because my position in YNP had been abolished and so my transfer to GNP was involuntary. However, Francis and his wife Toni (an accomplished artist) tried to be very welcoming and friendly to us. Soon after our arrival, they invited us over for dandelion wine(Taraxacum officinale), apparently one of Francis’ specialties. I was not much of a wine drinker anyway and the dandelion wine was too much for my stomach. I did not want to be rude, so I waited until they briefly left the livingroom and I gifted the wine to a house plant. I always wondered if the plant survived. Assistant Chief Naturalist John Palmer was scheduled to move to St. Mary for the summer, to serve as East Side Interpretive Supervisor. That apparently had been the tradition, i.e., the Assistant Chief supervised the East Side activities and lived at St. Mary in the summer. Compared to the westside program, the summer interpretive program on the East Side was much more complex, with activities at Goat Haunt, Many Glacier, St. Mary, and Two Medicine. The duties at Logan Pass were shared by the east and westside staffs. My role on the west side was that of supervising the interpretive activities out of Headquarters: conducted trips (e.g., Apgar Lookout, Sperry Chalet, Fish Lake, Avalanche Lake) evening campfire talks (at Apgar and Fish Creek Amphitheaters, and Lake McDonald Lodge), talks on the concessionaire boat (from Lake McDonald Lodge), and information duty (at the Apgar Visitor Center). My immediate assignments involved becoming familiar with the Park and hiring a staff of seasonal naturalists for the westside program. Most seasonal naturalists would be returning from the previous year, so there were only a few positions to fill. Doug Follett (“Ranger Doug”) was returning as a very experienced seasonal; he continued to work through 2011, his 52nd summer. He had an unusual ability to immediately “connect” with park visitors; he was a good naturalist and a terrific story teller. Other westside naturalists included Neil Nutter, John Mees, Linda Flueckinger, Richard Huckill, Maynard Bowers, and Dick Rensel. To my disappointment, Rensel, who was principal of the West Glacier Elementary School, turned out to be unreliable as a seasonal naturalist. One day when he was assigned to lead a trip to Avalanche Lake, I headed up the trail expecting to meet the group at the lake and see how he was handling the assignment. Instead, as I headed up the trail, I immediately encountered Rensel, who was running down the trail. I thought there must be an emergency 3 and he was seeking assistance. In reality, he had hurried his group of park visitors to the lake, abandoned them, and was rushing home to work on his house. He was very defensive when I questioned his abandoning the group. He stridently argued that he had to meet a critical building deadline. That was, of course, irresponsible. If he had a problem with the schedule, I would have worked something out for him, but he had not asked and obviously thought that I would not be monitoring his walk. And so it went throughout the summer. I could never be sure that Rensel would carry out his assignments. I was too lenient with him and the program suffered from it. I also was responsible for the museum collections (study skins, mounted plants, slide and print files, and numerous archival collections). I supervised seasonal museum curator Dan Harlow and also did some plant collecting and mounting. With the arrival oflate spring, occasional periods of thunderstorms began to appear in the GNP area. Especially with nocturnal storms, attempts to photograph lightning became a family affair. On some occasions, when lightning flashes began to show up to the west, often long after dark, Pat and I woke the kids, hustled them into the car (in their pajamas) and made a dash to the Camas Entrance Overlook, 13 miles north of West Glacier.