Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ Volume XXXI, No. 1 A Close Call at Rising Sun 100The Years Reynolds at Creek Fire just misses Lake McDthe Motor Inn

(Photo Chris Peterson, Hungry Horse News) In this issue: • Evacuating Rising Sun • Letters Home from Lake McDonald Lodge • Tales of McD in 1976 and 1978 • Bushwacking on Heaven’s Peak • Many Glacier Memories • Fleeing a Grizzly • Hootenanies in the 1960’s • Louis Hill and Glacier’s Roads and Trails • The Hummel Era • Remembering Alice Edwards • Alumni Reunions at Rising Sun and Lake McDonald Glacier Park Foundation Pursues New History Projects For 36 years, the Glacier Park Foun- Park Service is investing $13.5 mil- Inc. have graciously agreed to these dation has worked to preserve the lion there this year. Te Circular arrangements. In June 2016, GPF history of Glacier’s lodges and its his- Staircase, which was Many Gla- director and historian Ray Djuf will toric red buses. Te past fve years cier’s original iconic feature, will be give talks on lodge history to the have provided extraordinary forums reinstalled in the lobby. Much other stafs at Glacier Park Lodge and at for those eforts, in the centenni- preservation work will be done in the Prince of Wales Hotel. In 2017, als of Glacier Park (2010), Glacier the lobby and the Annex. additional orientation programs are Park Lodge (2013), Lake McDonald planned for Many Glacier and Lake Glacier’s concessioner Xanterra Lodge, Granite Park and Sperry McDonald Lodge. In future years, we wishes to replicate historic furnish- Chalets (2014), and Many Glacier hope to add programs for Rising Sun, ings in the rooms at Many as closely Hotel (2015). We also cohosted a Swiftcurrent and St. Mary Lodge. as possible. We invite members of massive gearjammer reunion (2010), GPF who worked at Many before GPF will supplement these talks and led a successful public campaign 1957 to share any photos or memo- with historical handbooks for the to preserve the red bus feet (2013). ries that you may have of the décor employees. Handbooks for Glacier As Glacier continues its second in the rooms. Park Lodge and the Prince of Wales century, we enjoy more opportuni- already have been compiled. Te GPF also has made arrangements to ties to share the Park’s history. One books are about 20 pages long. Tey give historical orientations to em- is the extraordinary restoration work include a brief history, a timeline of ployees at lodges in and around the at Many Glacier Hotel. Te National events at the hotel, a half dozen good Park. Xanterra and Glacier Park, stories, and sections on Architecture We invite members of GPF who worked at Many and Art and on Personalities. before 1957 to share any photos or memories Te handbooks and orientation talks are meant to enhance the employ- that you may have of the décor in the rooms. ees’ experience and to help them interpret the lodges for Park visi- Glacier Park Foundation Offcers: tors. GPF is pleased to share its P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President resources and the experience of its Minneapolis, MN 55415 Carol Dahle, Vice President members to promote these worthy www.glacierparkfoundation.org Mac Willemssen, Secretary [email protected] Tessie Bundick, Historian goals. Board of Directors: Jim Lees, Treasurer Joe Blair Laura Chihara, Webmaster The Inside Trail takes its name Mike Buck Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor from the famous old trail Tessie Bundick Laura Chihara which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Park Lodge with the vanished Brian Cross The Glacier Park Foundation was chalets at Two Medicine, Carol Repulski Dahle formed by Glacier Park employees Joyce Daugaard and visitors who have a deep love for Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Ray Djuff this special place. The Foundation is name thus emphasizes the commited both to the importance Emily Trapp Hackethorn publication’s focus on the John Hagen of wilderness preservation and to the importance of places like Glacier Einar Hanson lore and history of Glacier as classrooms where people can Paul Hoff experience wilderness in intense National Park. We invite Mark Hufstetler meaningful ways, learning not only a submission of historical, Jeff Kuhn love for the land, but also a respect scientifc, or anecdotal ar- Linda Young Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to Rolf Larson preserve that land. The Foundation ticles, commentary, poetry, Greg Notess has a special interest in Glacier Park’s or artwork for publication in history, traditions and visitor facilities. John Sauer future issues. Rick Taylor Mac Willemssen

2 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail Evacuating Rising Sun

(Diane Sine Photo.)

July 21, 2015 was a typical midsummer day for me at our company offces in Columbia Falls.

By Marc Ducharme (General Man- plan and done tabletop planning. Around approximately 5:00 PM, ager, Glacier National Park Lodges) Each of the members of our Incident we were called by our Rising Sun Command Group had a role. location manager, Hallie Brown. July 21, 2015 was a typical midsum- She told us that the Park Service mer day for me at our company My role was to relay communication had ordered the staf and guests out. ofces in Columbia Falls. Ten, between the National Park Service It was a no-nonsense, leave-your- around 4:00 PM, I got a call that and our team. For about an hour, toothbrush evacuation, which was a fre had been reported in Glacier they deliberated whether to evacu- completed in half an hour. Hallie Park around the head of St. Mary ate Rising Sun. Tat time was very and her managers closed the com- Lake. It was being blown rapidly valuable to us as we waited in our pound, locked the doors, took a roll in the direction of the compound company board room. call of employees, and got them into at Rising Sun. We assembled our Dave Eglssaer, our Transportation vehicles. Tere was no time to pack Incident Command Group. Manager, is responsible to have up anything from the campstore or We’d trained for this sort of a situa- of-duty vehicles ready to assist with anybody’s personal gear. tion. It was a below-average mois- an evacuation. During the hour of Tere were about 65 employees at ture year, and we knew that fre waiting, Dave assembled red buses Rising Sun. Many American em- danger would be high. Te previous and shuttle vans at Rising Sun. ployees had cars. Te international winter, we had developed a master

It was a no-nonsense, leave-your-toothbrush evacuation, which was completed in half an hour.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 3 We visited the kitchen to be sure We’d trained for this sort of a situation. It was that the equipment was turned of. a below-average moisture year, and we knew (Te kitchen crew had dropped their spatulas and left as soon as the that fre danger would be high. The previous evacuation was ordered.) We took winter, we had developed a master plan and perishable items out of the refrigera- done tabletop planning. Each of the members tors. It was quick and efcient work. of our Incident Command Group had a role. About three weeks into the event, with the fre under control but still smoldering, we were authorized to employees joined them or boarded We chose to pay the employees for reopen daytime operations. Tere the red buses and the vans, along 40 hours a week of standby time. was too much smoke settling into with those guests who had no private We didn’t know whether we could the valley at night for us to ofer vehicles. reopen Rising Sun, but we hoped to lodging. We opened the campstore have the staf intact if that proved and provided breakfast and lunch in Te evacuees drove around the south possible. the restaurant. side of Glacier on U.S. Highway 2. Tey assembled at our company’s Day by day, we were briefed by the After a couple of days, we decided recreational vehicle park in Coram, Park Service about the state of the that this plan wasn’t going to work. near West Glacier. (Te recreational fre. Our Food and Beverage De- Te smoke was too thick for em- vehicle park houses employees who partment, Jim Chapman and Jer- ployees to stay in the compound work at Lake McDonald Lodge or emiah Hook, had the duty to feed overnight, and anyone with any sort the Village Inn and prefer not to live the evacuees. Te employee dining of a breathing problem was impacted in the dormitories there.) room staf at Lake McDonald Lodge severely. It didn’t make sense logisti- prepared the extra meals, which then cally to bring employees back and While the Rising Sun staf was tak- were transported to Coram. forth from Coram (a four hours’ ing the long drive around the Park, daily commute). We were able to other members of our Incident About a week after the evacuation, place nearly all the Rising Sun em- Command Group were in action. the Park Service let us make a quick ployees who wanted to stay at other Our Human Relations director, foray to Rising Sun. We took a large locations. Lynette Franks, was in charge of get- warehouse truck and about a dozen ting camping gear. She drove to the employees to the site. Te Park Ser- Great credit goes to our Safety nearest Walmart and bought up all vice granted us two hours there. Manager, Terry Bailey. Terry has the tents she could fnd, along with more than twenty years of experi- We systematically ransacked the sleeping bags and toiletries. ence frefghting in the Great Falls place. We went from room to room, area. He developed our master plan Our Controller, Linda Updike, was quickly packing employees’ belong- for dealing with fre events, trained responsible to organize the frst meal. ings into garbage bags for trans- our staf, and led tabletop exercises She and her accounting staf bought portation to Coram. We gathered for our Incident Command Group. a lot of pizza, salad and soft drinks. the guests’ belongings as well, and His hard work enabled us to respond It was heartwarming to see the Ris- followed our protocol for getting efectively when the Reynolds Creek ing Sun employees arrive and fnd lost-and-found items to the owners. Fire suddenly menaced Rising Sun. warm pizza and tents awaiting them. Te frst hours went by very smooth- ly. Te advance planning really paid About three weeks into the event, with the fre of. Of course, the employees had under control but still smoldering, we were a million questions (“Will I be sent authorized to reopen daytime operations. home?” “Will I be paid?”).

4 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail By the Dawn’s Early Light . . . Rising Sun Alumni Ponder the Reynold’s Fire

(Diane Sine Photo.) By Joe Stevenson (Rising Sun 1970-76) The following day was fraught with ence was a sum of all the parts and any uncertainty and the fire seemed un- loss would have been devastating. When the Reynolds Creek Fire started, stoppable. I felt like Francis Scott Key I was preparing to attend a Rising Sun With the immediate threat reduced, awaiting the dawn’s early light to make reunion. The Motor Inn was built in our thoughts turned to more practical my report. (This was not easy since my 1940, and former employees were about matters. vantage point was in Oregon.) to gather in Glacier to observe its 75th So what does this do to the reunion plans? Anniversary. As the fire raced down the Is Rising Sun still standing? Does anyone - Bill Muth valley and forced evacuation of the Ris- know? - Becky (Chapman) Weaver ing Sun area, we were confronted with Holy crap! We may have to cancel our Rising Sun is in its path? What’s the prog- the possibility that the entire complex trip!!! - Bruce Adams nosis? - Lloyd Anderson might be destroyed. We stuck to the original plan with mi- It appears that Rising Sun is fighting for Even though it has been four decades nor adjustments. We found accommo- its survival. It’s hard to imagine the power since we worked there, the memories are dations at Johnson’s, Red Eagle Motel and danger of fire. - Peter Soli cherished. I tracked the fire’s movement and the KOA in St. Mary. We were six and relayed information to a group of I’m already in mourning for Baring Creek miles from where we wanted to be, but former employees. Here are some of cabin. Please! Not Rising Sun too! - Chris closer than we had been for many years. their responses: (Metzger) Baker With Going-to-the-Sun Road closed at My oh my. Fingers crossed.... - Neshe (Expletive deleted.) - Gus Chambers the St. Mary entrance, the only open North trail in our vicinity was the 3.5 mile Hope they contain the fire soon. Rising Beaver Pond Loop. The trail head was I’m speechless. You never know about Sun will survive! - Bruce Adams an ideal spot for viewing Rising Sun Nature. - Cindy (Boyd) Allgood Although the fire continued to burn, its across the lake. Active flames were pro- Let’s all hope and pray for a positive end to progress was being controlled. Credit ducing columns of smoke from the Rose this mess. - Dick Bridegroom goes to the firefighters for their he- Creek Basin and other points near Two roic efforts and the Park Service, state, Dog Flats. There was a yellowish haze This is not good!! It’s mind-boggling, all of county and tribal law enforcement for in the sky, and we could smell smoke. it! Very scary--hope they can get it under their support. The first hard evidence The conditions weren’t ideal for a hike, control - Sue (Sanders) Prunty that Rising Sun had survived appeared but we remembered what it was like to It hurts to think of a fire in Glacier, espe- in The Hungry Horse News more than a have a single day off per week and made cially here. For all of us, and our memo- week later when they ran a photograph the best of it. ries, a tragedy. - Chester North of the Camp Store. The picture was The trail begins behind the 1910 picked up by the wire services and ran This is a nightmare. It really, really makes Ranger Station and climbs to the termi- nationally. me sad. Just unimaginable. It breaks my nal moraine of the glacier that carved heart. Not our dear Glacier!! - Maggie The feeling of relief allowed for some lev- St. Mary Valley. We followed this low (Rosin) Pelischek ity. We questioned the efficacy of saving ridge through the 2006 Red Eagle burn. the dorm we called “Rat Haven.” Surely It was significant to us because even I think of Glacier as the one place I can a tent in Coram would be an upgrade! It always go back and it’ll be the same, but was tongue-in-cheek because our experi- (Continued on page 13) that’s obviously not true. - Helen Bresler The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 5 A Close Call at Rising Sun Retrieving Precious Items from the Path of the Fire

(Diane Sine Photos.)

By Jacquie Hjelmseth Fennell I booked Sperry Chalet (after hitting available. In our 37 years of visiting (Many Glacier 1978, ‘81-82) redial 167 times the morning res- Glacier, we’d never stayed at that lo- ervations became available!). I also cation, but we were thankful to fnd I was blessed to have grown up in booked a cabin in Polebridge, so that rooms available relatively close to the Missoula, Montana – a beautiful 2½ we could explore a part of the Park Many Glacier valley. hour drive from Glacier. Working unfamiliar to us. Tose hikes to at Many Glacier Hotel in the sum- On Monday, July 20th - 10 days Numa Ridge lookout, Sperry Glacier mers of ‘78, ‘81, and ‘82 gave me before the reunion - David, my and other trails were spectacular and countless memorable experiences husband Scott, my mother, daugh- memory making. But that’s not why and lifelong friendships. I’ve had the ters and I all headed to Rising Sun. I’m writing ... good fortune to visit the Park nearly What a joy it was to see the Going- every summer since, in conjunction In October 2014, one of my closest to-the-Sun Highway through the with visiting my parents. friends passed after a 9-month battle eyes of our friend, viewing its inde- with brain cancer. In November, scribable majesty for the frst time! Almost all the visits have been short her husband, David, expressed an I ended our frst day in the Park by – usually only 2-3 days, due to work interest in traveling to Montana with retreating to the creek behind Rising and kids’ schedules. But last sum- us the following summer. Of course Sun and playing worship songs on mer, using the MGH reunion as a he had to see Glacier! my violin, giving thanks for such catalyst, I carved out time to spend remarkable creation. 10 glorious days in the Park. My I determined to book another trip to dear friend Kathleen (Lawrence) the Park, but I knew that November We rose early the next morning and McPhearson (MGH ‘80,’ 81) and I was late to get accommodations. headed to MGH to hike the Grin- started planning a year in advance to After checking all the lodges, I found nell Glacier trail. Again, it was very hike for a week before the reunion. that only Rising Sun had rooms still enjoyable to share this stunning hike

6 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail A Close Call (continued) with David, who was moved by more [T]he wind apparently shifted and suddenly he beauty at every turn. It was a clear, sunny day - very hot. As we rode the saw fames within 60 feet! (The fames were boat back to the hotel, we noticed coming from the very location where I had played dark smoke clouds over Mt. Allen. my violin that frst night.) Walking into the hotel, we were met with much commotion. We soon Te following day we learned that and she is now a ranger). She had learned about the Reynold’s Creek Rising Sun was in danger. Tere was overheard my conversation with the fre and were informed that Rising absolutely no way that we could get ranger that morning, learned about Sun had been evacuated. Many con- access there to rescue our belongings. my violin, and called to ofer her cerns and questions ensued. Fore- So we decided to drive back to Mis- assistance. She said that she’d give most on my mind was my violin. soula and pray – frst for the safety Sam clearance to go into Rising Sun Was there any way of getting into of the frefghters and rangers, but for us. Help from all sides! also that Rising Sun (and our stuf) Rising Sun quickly to rescue it? And I wish I could have seen “the rescue.” would be saved. also the rest of our belongings – 7 Sam had half an hour to collect all suitcases flled with clothes, personal For two days we were in touch with our stuf from two cabins, as well as items as well as MacBooks and iPads. rangers who kept us informed of to remove his car. While he was in David expressed concern that his conditions around Rising Sun. At our second cabin, the wind appar- prayer journal was left in the cabin – 9 AM on the third day, a ranger ently shifted and suddenly he saw where he had processed the last year called to inform us they were letting fames within 60 feet! (Te fames of his wife’s life. people go in from 11:00-11:30 AM were coming from the very location And where would we stay that night? to collect belongings. But since the where I had played my violin that I knew that all the lodges and motels Sun Road was closed at Logan Pass, frst night.) Rangers began yell- had been booked for months. With we would have had to travel around ing for everyone to get out. Sam the evacuations, fnding alternate Highway 2 - a 4½ hour drive. It was scooped up the last armful of gear lodging would be impossible. impossible to get there in time. and ran to his car. All was retrieved. Everyone was safe. We camped out in the lobby, speak- I called my friend Barb Burch (of ing frequently to the very helpful the Glacier Park Boat Co.) while My husband and David drove to woman at the information desk. my mom called Kristen Johnson Johnson’s that afternoon. Tey We were on the phone often with (of Johnson’s of St. Mary) to see if thanked Sam profusely and enjoyed rangers assessing fre danger at Ris- anyone could go in for us. I couldn’t a great dinner there. When they ar- ing Sun. Around 9 PM, MGH’s reach Barb immediately, but my rived home with our belongings, we assistant manager, Angel, somehow mom reached Kristen. She said that found that the bags included Rising found us two rooms. one of her employees, Sam, was plan- Sun’s towels, information books and ning to go to Rising Sun during that an iron. (Sam was very thorough!) Tis kind, helpful man lived up to his half hour window to get his car. She A few days later I was back in the name many times during our adven- connected us, and Sam said that he’d Park for the Many Glacier reunion. ture, as well as in the following week be happy to collect our belongings. during the reunion. We were ofered I returned the mistakenly evacu- a large room with two queen beds It occurred to us that there might be ated items to Rising Sun. And I and a rollaway on the 3rd foor and an issue with someone else going in was thankful to be reunited with my a lakeside balcony room with 2 twin to claim our possessions. We were violin, playing with good friends at beds. (Since there were 5 women and in the process of faxing a document that amazing reunion. Our family is 2 men in our party, I’ll leave it to you to Johnson’s giving Sam permission very thankful for all the people who to guess who were the lucky recipi- to collect our things when Diane helped us, as well as the frefghters ents of that lakeside balcony room!) Steele Sine called. (I had worked and rangers who risked their safety with Diane at MGH in ‘81 and ‘82, to preserve Rising Sun. The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 7 Lake McDonald Memories

(Alice Greenwald Zimmerman Photos.)

Andrea Adams Ten I transferred to the “Empire dropped of at Lake McDonald (Lake McDonald 1978-79) Builder” line from Chicago to Mon- Lodge. Soon thereafter, we wandered tana. Tingling with anticipation, I down to “the Stockade” where we One dafodil-strewn May day in soon discovered that my train car met “the Wranglers.” Some were real 1978, a thin letter from Ian Tippet ar- included a park ranger for the Belly cowboys and some were just playing rived in my mailbox. I was a 19-year- River (who entertained us on his the role for the summer. It didn’t mat- old student at University of Massa- autoharp), a jazz musician from De- ter to me. Tey took me under their chusetts. Te letter contained an ofer troit (who looked like he was from wings and I was theirs for the summer of a job at the general store at Lake the band Earth Wind & Fire and (and in some aspects for the rest of McDonald in Glacier National Park. would be working at Many Glacier), my life as one of them is the Godfa- Te idea to apply to Glacier occurred a recent Cornell graduate (who was ther to my now grown daughter). to me fve months earlier when our going to meet his Kalispell room- My boss at the General Store was college outdoors club spent the mate and hike across the Continental Mrs. Twamley. She pursed her lips month of January visiting National Divide), and a girl named Leslie with disapproval regarding my choice Parks throughout the Southwest, who was heading to Lake McDonald of companions. Wranglers, after all, ending in California --- 12 people, Lodge with me, assigned to the Gar- had cars. Tey went to the Belton 2 vans, $200 dollars each. Montana den Court dormitory with Bunny Chalet, drank beer and danced beckoned hard. Te adventure, the Swartly as our housemother. on the tables. Tey played softball excitement, and the sheer joy of set- We arrived at the Belton train depot against the Park Service employees ting forth on my own made every cell and were picked up by the shiny on Friday nights. Sometimes I’d in my body vibrate with electricity red jammer buses. Leslie and I were take my sleeping bag down to the and magic. I started out on Amtrak’s “Lake One daffodil-strewn May day in 1978, a thin Shore Limited” — the train name for the leg from Boston to Chicago. letter from Ian Tippet arrived in my mailbox.

8 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail wrangler beach where the stars hung rolled double sixes in backgammon. Food obtained from the General low, huge and brilliantly in the black His eyes sparked hazel green like the Store for the hikes was abysmal. Te sky, sparking wonder we were part big ponderosa pines as he tossed the cheese substance adhered our teeth of a vast network of interconnecting dice. In the driveway, his old aqua with equal tenacity as it did to the galaxies. Mrs. Twamley especially did GMC pick-up truck held the fsh- pasta. Because of bears, we didn’t not like that idea as young girls like ing pole we’d rowed out with earlier dare to bring anything with a waft- me were supposed to be tucked up at that evening, to catch trout from ing aroma. Te employee cafeteria the Garden Court with Bunny, our Lake McDonald. A sturdy peeled wasn’t much better — lots of mystery darling 80-year-old housemother. log staircase led up from the lake to meat and gravy. I survived on peanut the screened in porch where teasing M&M’s and Dr. Pepper that summer. Nevertheless, I showed up for my passed around among the wranglers shifts at the General Store. I dusted While hiking, we encountered new like a fast ping-pong game. After he of vintage post cards, and moved tastes such as tart, sweet thimbleber- won, we went outside, where the tomahawk toy kits and shot glasses ries that slid like ruby red caps from stars and the lake beamed at each printed with grizzly bears around on rounded heads, melting softly as they reached my mouth. Tiny bursts of Days off were precious and we tried to ft in all favor exploded from wild huckleber- the hiking possible. Often, we’d fnish work at ries that looked like a blueberry with a fat circle versus a star on the end 3:00 in the afternoon the day before our day off. farthest from the stem from which it We’d be likely to set forth on the frst leg of a hike, was plucked. Sometimes the musty say to Sperry . . . . smell of steaming bear scat reminded us that we had competition for those scrumptious berries. the shelves to look enticing. I worked other, dancing across our hearts. with Alana, whose husband was the I ran into competition for my sweaty Days of were precious and we tried Lake McDonald ranger, and she kept t-shirt once. While I was taking a to ft in all the hiking possible. Of- us entertained with her husband’s sto- quick jump in a freezing cold, clear ten, we’d fnish work at 3:00 in the ries of the interactions between bears blue green alpine lake, a marmot afternoon the day before our day of. and tourists. Visitors to the park grabbed my t-shirt with his big front We’d be likely to set forth on the frst loved our store’s cigar store Indian teeth. It was in the process of pulling leg of a hike, say to Sperry Chalet, to and carved mountain man. the shirt down into its burrow when camp and then complete Gunsight my nimble friend entered a tug of Sometimes it got slow and boring in Pass on the full day of, hitchhiking war and got it back, intact except for the store and we’d make bets. “I’ll back before dark. White mountain some small holes on the left shoul- bet you a bag of peanut M&M’s that goats and bighorn sheep populated der. Tat was lucky or I’d have had they’ll ask for a sack, not a bag,” I’d the dry grasses and the steep gravelly to complete the hike wearing my say quietly to my co-worker, as a big- mountain paths with us. We were day-pack across my front. bellied man and his skinny wife ap- lucky that it stayed light until almost proached the cash register. We made 10:00 in early summer. Back at U Mass, after that magical up the norm that Easterners asked summer, I took up horseback riding. Perpetual euphoria was novel for for bags while Westerners asked for For an hour or two, I could pretend me. I had tremendous energy and sacks. And those Eastern women to be down at the horse corral at used it to push my legs up into were more likely to be rotund with Lake McDonald where the snufe the mountains. Te perfume that a skinny husband, whereas Western and snort, foot stamping, leather came in wafts of clean pine pitch men’s odds of a portly physique and saddles and sweaty wranglers mixed was intoxicating. Icy glacial streams a wiry wife were higher. with tangy country music and the highlighted the pink and green rock cold clean water of that beloved Steely Dan’s “Asia” was playing at ubiquitous to Glacier Park. We’d lake’s water lapping the shore. the Wrangler Cabin when the New crunch through duf and sometimes York cowboy I fell for that summer patches of snow in our hiking boots.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 9 Letters Home from Lake McD An employee famously hired an Information Desk clerk to write home for him, after which his mother wrote back to the clerk!)

------from California, appropriately did Last night most of us a juggling act. He ate an apple as it working in the dining came around, juggling all the while. room stayed till about At the end was an employee sing 1:30AM waxing the foor along, which was much fun. and cleaning the room. It was not so bad, because we At next week’s talent show, a few had music and the manag- friends and I will perform our own er brought wine and we all version of “Camp Grenada” by Alan had a good time just goof- Sherman, only it is “Lake McDon- ald.” We made up our own new ing around while we worked. Tank By Jef Yoest lyrics. It will be done at one of the goodness today is my day of. (Lake McDonald Lodge 1976-78) periodic talent shows. ------Editor ‘s Note: Tese passages are ------Last week, Dan, Bruce and I hitched excerpted from an impressive set of We’ve really had problems in the into Whitefsh, a town about 30 to letters Jef Yoest sent to his parents and kitchen lately. Our good cooks quit, 40 miles away. We did it after sup- grandparents during his frst summer for they were defnitely not paid what per so we did not have much time. in Glacier. Many alumni may feel a they were worth. Ten they hired a People are not overly anxious to guilty start seeing the efort Jef put cook they had already fred from the pick you up, but we managed to get into these letters (especially the em- Prince of Wales and a goofy guy as a enough little rides to make it there. ployee who famously hired an Informa- second cook. Tey lasted a big two We threw a Frisbee in between rides tion Desk clerk to write home for him, days before they were canned. after which his mother wrote back to (Dan went to the Frisbee national the clerk!) championships this spring). So we ------had a lot of fun just fooling around Last Friday Dan and I hitched to ------on the road. I think it helped get Many Glacier over the Divide. Te We’ve been working hard lately; the rides, too. Anyone throwing a Fris- change was amazing! At Lake Mc- tourist season is really beginning bee around can’t be too dangerous! Donald it is mild, very lush and to peak. Many tours. Te job gets green. Tere it was very windy and Tere was a party in one of the girls’ kind of old sometimes, but on the very barren by comparison. No dorms which we thought was a whole, it’s great. We have really a big cedars or great forests like here. costume party, so we made makeshift fne cook, but he’s quitting soon (15 When we held up Dan’s harmonica Arab outfts. We went, and were hours a day, no days of, no over- it played by itself. One of our rides about the only ones in costumes. We time pay, etc.). Te concessioner is was an older couple from Utah. felt like fools, but it was a lot of fun tighter than the bark on a tree when Since Dan is studying ecology and and good for lots of laughs! it comes to money — sometimes to I biology, he asked us if we thought the point of foolishness. Tey really ------we should sacrifce “progress” for have a deal with student labor. Last night was a talent show in the ecology. We both said yes. lobby, and one of our busboys, Paul,

10 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail He kinda got hostile at that and said lowed a little used, but fairly decent for I knew coming down would be if we go along with the foolish ecolo- trail in the McDonald Creek Valley. much more difcult than going up. I gists, we’ll be as bad as the Indians Te dew on the brush was so thick waited behind for about 40 minutes who didn’t even have the sense to that by the time we reached McDon- as Rusty and Dan went up, took a wear pants (I wonder if Aristotle ald Creek to ford it, I had no need to few pictures, and came down. I was wore pants). take of my boots, they were so wet. so relieved they made it. As I waited, I watched a moose in the Camas Val------After crossing we looked for an old ley far below, feeding in Camas Lake. Mom, Dad and Kyle had a really pack trail that led up to the lookout, good visit here. On Sunday the three which was abandoned long ago in Not wanting to backtrack through the of them took a horse ride up to Sper- the 1930s. As we could not pick it hell we had ascended, we decided to ry Chalet. I guess the trip up was up anywhere, we began bushwhack- return via the Camas Valley, across the uneventful, but the trip back down ing straight up the ridge. Te brush ridge from whence we began. Again was unbelievably thick like a jungle bushwhacking, we went straight I guess the trip up was — so that you could only see 20 down the ridge several thousand feet, uneventful, but the trip back to 30 feet in front of you. We kept using gullies as trails and bushes as down was a regular rodeo. from getting lost by simply going up. “railings.” Soon we were in the valley above Camas Lake, a fat marsh with After several hours of scratching was a regular rodeo. Te horses be- many small beaver ponds and dams, bushes, hordes of fies and mosqui- gan acting up, fghting and running which we also used as bridges. Lucki- toes and summer sun, we fnally got of, and the cowboys couldn’t control ly, we encountered no angry moose or high enough that climbing became them. Dad’s horse took of into the bear, though undoubtedly they were easier, and soon we hit the old trail woods at a fast gallop, Dad yelling all around us. (Note. Te valley is a “Whoooooah!” But they all returned Bill, the old cowboy who used concentrated area for grizzly). Tracks safe and sound, although sore, from to lead the pack trains up and dung were everywhere. I looked a fun, exciting trip. there when it was still in use, up from the trail at one point for a second, slipped in a pile of dung, and ------said the trail had to be rebuilt almost broke my neck! Two nights ago was Christmas in every year, even back then. July. After I got of work (10PM) Te valley trail is very sparsely trav- everyone met in the lobby where on the saddle beneath the ridge. It eled and the place where it crossed Christmas carols were sung in antici- was a pretty good trail for a ways. the creek, I almost cried at many pation of the arrival of Santa Claus. We celebrated by eating lunch, then places because I was thought how After a long embarrassing wait, he began our climb again. Te higher hard it would be to follow. We fnally arrived...a little bit “tight” we got the rockier it became, and started, lost it once and were bush- (he was portrayed by a dressed-up soon the trail could only be detected whacking again. We almost did not employee). At this point all the gifts in a few isolated places, for rock have enough time to get back even under the tree were handed out for slides and erosion had obliterated with a good trail. But Rusty found the employee gift exchange. After- most of it. Bill, the old cowboy who it again, and of we went. Soon we wards, there was an employee dance used to lead the pack trains up there came upon Arrow Lake, a beauti- in the “Wreck Hall” (Rec Hall) with when it was still in use, said the trail ful spot, and behold — people! We wine, cheese and good music, not to had to be rebuilt every year, even stopped at their camp... three young mention some beautiful ladies I had back then. men, two from North Dakota and the pleasure to dance with. I haven’t Te ridge here was about 60 degrees one from London, England. had so much fun in a long time! and covered with powdery loose scree We took a short break to talk with ------and rock, with nothing to hold on them, then continued on down the Last Monday, three of us hiked up to to. Here, I turned chicken. I thought valley to Trout Lake and over Howe Heaven’s Peak Lookout. Rusty drove it just too dangerous to go on. Seeing Ridge. I didn’t know if Rusty or Dan us to Packer’s Roost, where we began the lookout was not worth my life, were going to make it, since they our hike about 8AM. Here we fol- were on the verge of blacking out. We

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 11 (Jeff Yoest and Alice Greenwald Zimmerman Photos.)

We weren’t always working.

tramped down to the Lake McDon- its whereabouts. I considered it gone the only ones out on the foor . . . a ald Ranger Station, where we got a for good, when at lunch today one square of just Lake McDers. After lift back home. Te ranger said it of the dorm mothers brought it in a while we went out in the crowd, was one heck of a hike. Some of the to me. Te girl had left it in Cobb pulling people out to get them to rangers had attempted it before and Cabin . . . not her dorm, which is dance. When the dance fnally end- why I couldn’t fnd it. ed, we headed for the jammer buses, our sleeping quarters for the night. I looked up from the trail ------at one point for a second, I added up my tips for the past two Next morning, we hitchhiked to slipped in a pile of dung, and weeks and found that they amount- Two Medicine. Te weather was almost broke my neck! ed to $1.25 short of $100 . . . not quite foul, cold and very windy. We bad for part time money, like an ex- made it up to Dawson Pass, where had to make it a two day hike. To say tra paycheck. I had to turn in 35%, the winds were unbelievable . . . as the least, we were really worn out, $34.47, which still leaves me a good windy or windier than Waterton. although I didn’t feel the full efects bit of money. Glad I won’t have to until work for the next two days. Te wind chill must have been well buy another sleeping bag with it! below freezing. Most of us hiked ------back down instead of traveling the Recently I couldn’t locate my sleep- Last Tursday, seven other Lake ridge to Pitamakin Pass in the ter- ing bag. I had lent it to some girls McD employees and I hitched (in rible winds. My hands were numb who hopped a freight to Spokane. small groups) to Glacier Park Lodge and useless, in late August! When the one who used it returned, at East Glacier. Tat night, we went she told me she had left it some- Work is getting better, for busi- to the bar (sounds like we’ve really where for me to pick up, but I didn’t ness is really slowing down now. It’s been boozing it up here, I suppose, get it then and later forgot where so much more pleasant when you but not really), drank a beer, and she said it was. In the meantime, don’t have to run your tail of, and played hearts. At 9PM there was a she left for Ohio for good. I looked have time to talk to the people and square dance downstairs, so we went everywhere conceivable for it, but give them good service. Take care down to get some dancing started it was nowhere to be found, and at home. See you in less than two (everyone just sat around, embar- everyone I asked knew nothing of weeks! rassed to get up and dance). We were

12 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail Upcoming: A 40th Year Reunion

By Alice Greenwald Zimmerman sightsee, raft, fsh or whatever beckons ourselves immensely, We convened for (Lake McDonald 1976-77) everybody’s hearts, another reunion in August of 2012. It was then that we targeted 2016 for Tis coming summer (Aug. 26 to Tis is not our frst reunion together, our next reunion since that would be Aug. 29) will see the return to Lake although this reunion will see the our 40th year anniversary for working McDonald for many employees who addition of some new faces that have in the park! called Glacier National Park their not joined us for previous reunions. In home during the summer of 1976. 2008, Joanie (Vigil) Saltzberg (Linen We currently have made contact with Tose of us who spent our summer Crew) had a dream that she needed 84 former employees from that sum- waiting tables, changing bed linens, to bring all of the Lake McDonald mer, but we know that there are many waiting tables in the Cofee Shop, employees from that summer together. other employees from 1976 that we preparing salads in the kitchen, serv- Working of our typewritten copy of have been unsuccessful in locating. ing cocktails in the Stockade — plus the original roster from 1976, Joanie, If you worked at Lake McDonald in many other savory jobs — will be Jef Yoest (Dining Room) and I put on 1976 and we have not yet found you, gathering to reminisce about our our detective hats to locate long lost please contact me (alice_izimmer- memorable summer together! Our employees from that summer. [email protected]; (614)738-5445) so schedule will allow for social time to that we can get you onboard with our We gathered for our frst reunion in reconnect, as well as free time to hike, reunion fun! July of 2009. And because we enjoyed

By the Dawn’s Early Light (continued from previous page 5) though there are many dead trees, there has just been published and is available If you receive an invitation for a Rising are also stands of untouched forest. The through the Glacier Park Conservancy.) Sun reunion, I strongly recommend you regrowth is abundant with meadows We talked about the fire, Rising Sun, take the opportunity. Relive memories and and flowers on display, likely to be the and the extremely fresh bear scat on the make new ones. There was never a dull future of the Reynolds Creek Fire Zone. trail. He wasn’t concerned about the lat- moment and very little down time (unless The beavers are no longer at the pond ter because our group had made enough one chose it). A good time was had by all. and it isn’t particularly scenic, possibly noise to send all bears into full retreat. - MoJo Zygmond explaining why this trail is seldom used. I believe the reunion was a success. The I had such a wonderful time hiking, As we turned west to intersect the Red magic was still there; years melted away eating, and sharing memories. It will be Eagle Lake Trail, we crossed paths with as we picked up where we had left off. fondly remembered. - Marilyn (Buffy) Chris Peterson and his son. Chris We hiked familiar and unfamiliar trails, Buffinga is Mel Ruder’s successor as Managing attended the concerts at Many Glacier I can’t stop thinking about the extraor- Editor of The Hungry Horse News. He Hotel and explored old haunts from Gla- dinary days we had together. It was so had been given access to Rising Sun and cier Park Lodge to the Prince of Wales. wonderful to see everyone and catch up took the picture that convinced us the We didn’t make it back to Rising Sun with your lives. It was non-stop yakking, buildings were safe. – the road reopened two days after our (except on the trail when I was too winded Chris also is a prodigious hiker and last departure. That was a disappointment, to talk). I still didn’t have enough time summer accumulated 240 miles in at- but it will serve as an incentive to return with each of you. We look forward to our tempting to retrace the route Mary Rob- and witness the rebirth. Here are some next meeting. - Coleen (Dolan) Lucachick erts Rinehart had taken in 1914. (His reflections from our group: The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 13 book Through Glacier Park 1915-2015 (Alice Greenwald Zimmerman Photos.)

Now & Then (It must be time for a Reunion)

Lake McD employees in 1976 and at the 2012 reunion.

14 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail Many Glacier Hotel Memories

Hootenannies of the Mid-60s By Fergus Prestbye (Many Glacier 1965-66) At the bottom of the stairs in the St. Moritz Room was a small closet with recording equip- ment for anything coming from microphones in the main lobby. Because of this, I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying Monday Night Hootenanny music for the last 50 years from the two years I performed in them, 1965-66. Te frst year, we called our group “Te Society for the

Te frst year, we called our group “Te Society for the Preser- vation of Folk Music at Many Glacier Hotel”. Te second year the group name was “Fergie and His Friends.” In ‘65 we were the only group, other than soloists, including one of the boatmen who performed with guitar and harmonica. In ‘66, our group was made up of all new employees. I was the only repeat performer – and that was after having been fred by Chef Wilson and immediately re-hired by Mr. Tippet and given a diferent job! A college bluegrass group had been hired as bellmen to beef up the Monday Night experience. I remember that during the summer of ‘66 on Hootenanny Night people were crammed into the lobby and hanging over the railings all the way up to the Crow’s Nest. Tey enjoyed such tunes as “Cigarettes and Whiskey and Wild Women,” “Kilgary Mountain,” (the Robert DeCormier Folk Singers version) and “Going Home.” Te Many Glacier Gas Station By Carl Henkel (Many Glacier 1971) I worked at Many Glacier during the summer of 1971, but where I worked no longer exists! Younger folks don’t know that there used to be a gas station above the Many Glacier parking lot. I, a Lutheran seminary student from Wisconsin, was the manager and sole employee of said station. It was a great job, and the whole summer was an absolutely wonderful experience.

[W]here I worked no longer exists! Younger folks don’t know that there used to be a gas station above the Many Glacier parking lot. (Fergus Prestbye Photos.)

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 15 MGH Memories (continued)

I don’t recall ever being bored. I had old songs. We adapted the words As I ran shrieking with laughter up plenty of customers, and for “tip of “On Top of Old Smoky” because the stairs, who was coming down? money” I’d wash cars for $2.00. I Mt. Henkel was right outside the Mr. Tippet had not been seen on also had a walk-under oil changing window. I remember telling some lake level that entire summer, but of pit (which was basically a large hole really lame jokes and people actually course there he was. I braced myself in the ground, but it worked!) and a laughing! for the tirade (or even fring?) to come. All he said was “Does anyone supply of oil cans for those wanting Ah, yes! Great memories! Great fresh oil in their cars. My service at all work in this hotel?” I shrieked friends! Great times! station was small but cozy, complete and laughed and continued to run – with a radio that pulled in a Kalispell answering his question, I’m sure! I station and a comfy bench that had Ah, yes! don’t know why he re-hired me, but been pulled from a red bus. Fellow Great memories! I’m glad he did. MGH employees would pop in dur- Great friends! Heavenly Hash ing the day, some staying for an hour By Jana Hjelmseth Baker (Many Gla- or two. Tat summer, I also learned Great times! cier 1980-82) to play the guitar in my little service station on an instrument purchased This story is embarrassing but Bathing a Bellman from another fellow employee. needs to be told – true confessions! By Laura Shearin (Many Glacier In the summer of 1982, the Hjelms- A favorite story: One day a man and 1980) eth sisters (Jacquie and Jana) were his family drove up to the pumps working as waitresses in the Dining For a few weeks in the summer of (there were two, regular and ethyl) Room. If we happened to stay up 1980, we maids carried on a series of and wanted me to fll his empty tank late, there were mornings when we skirmishes with the bellmen. A bell- with regular, but when he saw the skipped breakfast in the Employee man would throw a maid in the lake, price, he changed his mind and hast- Cafeteria to get a few more minutes and the maid would seek revenge. ily decided to go elsewhere. I told of sleep. Alas, by the end of our One morning, I called up the front him it was a long way to the next morning shift, as we were breaking desk from a lake level room, and station, and that the price of 40.9 down the buffet and clearing one using my best old-lady voice asked cents was the same outside the park, section of tables for waxing, we for a bucket of ice. A few minutes but his mind was made up. He found ourselves faint with hunger later, there was a knock on the door. drove of with an empty tank. I’m and exhaustion. The baskets of A bellman stood there in his lederho- glad I wasn’t in the car to hear what club crackers only increased our sen, with a bucket of ice and a win- his wife had to say when they were desperation. sitting somewhere by the side of the ning “please tip me” smile on his face. road, in the mountains, out of gas My accomplice and I fung the door As the chef was usually lurking because of her husband’s stubborn- open, doused him with two big buck- around, we’d surreptitiously claw ness! ets of water, and ran for our lives. some cold corned beef hash onto I was also privileged to lead the Community Sing, which was held each Wednesday evening in the For a few weeks in We’d proceed to very Many Glacier lobby. Janet Jorstad, the summer of 1980, quietly snarf that a fellow midwesterner from Min- we maids carried on famously disgusting nesota, was my very capable piano accompanist and each week guests a series of skirmishes hash like it was would fll the lobby and join in with the bellmen. manna from heaven. singing, by request, their favorite

16 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail a plate and rendezvous in a ladies’ restroom stall. This is where the story gets a little awkward. One of us would sit on the toilet (lid closed), and the other on her lap. We’d proceed to very quietly snarf that famously disgusting hash like it was manna from heaven. Tak- ing a pre-lunch nap after that was even more delicious. Happy times together at Many G! My Memorable Hike with Head Bellman John Hagen by David R. (Dave) Butler, Jam- mer#100, Summers 1973 and 1974 (David Butler photo.) It was June 13, 1974, early in a sum- mer with a lot of snow still lingering. Most trails out of Many Glacier were We got our frst glimpse at the sweeping still heavily snow-covered, but the diorite sill on the face of Mt. Siyeh, and we trail to Cracker Lake was open. I had were quietly looking at that instead of going the day of, and John Hagen, Many Glacier Head Bellman, had time noisily up the trail. of also. We set out together toward Cracker at about 8:15 A.M. could. I was with John step-for-step charge” mechanism to get us to leave At 9:40 or so, we came around a the whole way, although John was a the area - and leave we did! After blind corner on the trail after hav- marathon runner! our hearts came down out of our ing gotten around the base of Allen mouths, we laughed about it, and Mountain. We got our frst glimpse After we stopped, John commented reconstructed the attached photo of at the sweeping diorite sill on the how he’d never seen anyone strip John “running for his life” down the face of Mt. Siyeh, and we were their pack of their back so quickly, trail. We walked very briskly back to quietly looking at that instead of because I was prepared to drop the Te Showplace of the Rockies, and going noisily up the trail. Suddenly, pack in the trail if needed to distract had a story to tell, one I’ve never I saw them, and said something like the bear. Needless to say, the bear forgotten! “John, there’s a bear ahead!” And did not actually pursue us but used then something like “Oh damn, it’s what I later learned was a “bluf a sow grizzly with two cubs!” Te Momma bear woofed her cubs up the hillside, and bounded towards us. John and I, backing up slowly at Needless to say, the bear did not actually pursue frst, violated all Park Service advice us but used what I later learned was a “bluff (but remember, in the 1970s there charge” mechanism to get us to leave the area - was no mandatory bear training) and ran like maniacs back down the and leave we did! trail, running as long and as far as we

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 17 Louis Hill vs. Washington, D.C. The Struggle to Make Glacier Park Accessible

By Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier pace of the government annoyed 1972-73, 76-80) him to no end. Since Glacier was a national park, the United States gov- Louis Warren Hill was the board ernment was supposed to appropri- chairman of the Great Northern ate funds for roads and trails, which Railway in 1912. He had many du- were vital if the new national play- ties in this capacity, but his infuence ground was going to be a success. reached far beyond railroad con- cerns. Some of his many concerns First of all, Hill felt that he needed included oil, transportation indus- to get good information to the ap- tries, land development, especially propriate authorities. He rightly in California and Montana, copper knew that frst hand knowledge mining, fnance and collecting (in of the problems of transportation particular materials associated with would probably hasten the loosen- the Blackfeet Indians). ing of purse strings and cause more federal involvement in the day to day Tose great appreciators of the beau- travel needs of the tourist. Dealing ty of Glacier National Park today are with Washington D.C. on this level lucky that one of his many interests was a source of great frustration to was the development of this gem him. He needed actual, in person of the Parks system. He had a very personnel, on the ground, in Glacier forceful nature and also a wonderful (Great Northern photo.) to see for themselves. And it seemed sense of vision. We are the grateful to him that Washington was just benefciaries of his single minded was paying for the concessions based about ignoring Glacier. th determination to make his beloved on a June 15 opening date. Te Glacier Park a paradise for visitors. Not only were there not enough roads Department of the Interior charged Hill was very instrumental in the and trails, but the ones that existed the Great Northern so much an acre creation of national park status for were in poor condition. In a letter for location,… “So much a cord of this magnifcent Rocky Mountain to Franklin Lane, Secretary of the fuel (wood), royalty on water power, land in Montana, circa 1910. His Interior, dated August 4, 1916, Hill commission on sales, curios, tobacco, railway ran at the southern tip of the complained that the Great Northern clothing, news, etc., and still we are park and he built accommodations (and its hotel company) was unable to unable to reach our camps, although for visitors with a splendid eye for open most of its camps and hotels for an appropriation sufcient to put mountain architecture and charm. most of June (1916) because of the roads in good condition is available.” bad transportation routes. Constructing chalets, tent camps, Another bone of contention con- and magnifcent, enormous hotels No matter if they were accepting cerned the heavy equipment that from 1911 to 1915, was one thing. guests or not, the Great Northern the government was purchasing, However, getting guests from one point to another in this rather primi- tive outback was another. [Louis Warren Hil] had a very forceful nature Hill was a man of action and urgen- and also a wonderful sense of vision. cy and his perception of the snail’s

18 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail such as a $5000 White automobile been news to Mr. Hill) for projects Goodwin, out of a Federal govern- tractor, to haul gravel over the roads. in Glacier. Tere was $3000 for im- ment appropriation of $950,000, However, it was of no use because provement of Two Medicine, $6000 for Glacier Park for roads and trails. it was too big to turn around on for the road from Old St. Mary’s to It was specifcally earmarked for the narrow routes. To Hill, this was Many Glacier and so on, including Belly River country, to connect with a squandering of the Glacier Park $4600 for trails. Also, any money Waterton Lake and nearby points. appropriations. Tere was already a that the Great Northern had spent Louis Hill must have been gratifed lot of expensive machinery that was was to be reimbursed. to know that a congressional com- mittee arrived in Glacier in July of not being used because it was not Very slowly, the trails and roads of 1920 to oversee this expenditure, the correct purchase for a place like Glacier Park took shape as the years since he was so adamant about more Glacier Park. Hill suggested that a went by. Certainly, way too slowly involvement by the Feds. large tractor could be just the thing for Louis Hill. By 1916, Glacier to haul gravel. was being heavily advertised, which However, it was still apparent Trails were also being neglected. meant an increase in visitation. that Hill (and the Great North- Tere was very little signage, so hikers Funds were being spent on improve- ern people) did not really trust the and trail riders got lost. Tere were ments, but Chairman Hill felt that, government to do a decent job. A few foot bridges over streams. In not only was the government too letter sent to him by Great Northern another August, 1916, letter to Lane, negligent in doing the necessary Vice President W.P. Kenney dated Hill claimed that four men from work to make roads and trail acces- July 19, 1920, seemed to express Chicago walking from Cut Bank to sible to this infux of vacationers, but some doubt about the efcacy of Red Eagle currently would endanger that the appropriations were being this congressional oversight group. their lives because there were not foot incorrectly channeled. Kenney explained, “I enclose a copy of the itinerary of the Committee bridges over Red Eagle Stream! Hill complained that money ear- on Appropriations of the House marked for transportation needs was Te federal government was actually of Representatives while in Glacier the one responsible for making sure that trails and roads were built and maintained. But according to the [Louis Hill] was always thinking of the impatient Mr. Hill, “Your people experience that the tourist would have, and in charge in Washington have not he realized that new trails needed to be built made proper use of last year’s ap- propriation, no prompt use of this as those guests returning year after year would year’s.” He was always thinking of get tired of the old ones. the experience that the tourist would have, and he realized that new trails going to government employees that Park … Mr. Goodwin feels that it is needed to be built as those guests did not do their jobs. Rangers, for ex- very important that either you or I returning year after year would get ample, who accomplished practically be with this party while in the Park tired of the old ones. “nothing during the year in the way as their attention can be directed to of helping tourists by building and Te government, for its part, was the necessities of the Park to much maintaining roads and bridges.” He full of excuses. Joseph Cotter, acting better advantage than if it is left felt that the local park superintendent superintendent of the Parks, and entirely to government people. I should be given more confdence and Horace Albright, assistant to Stephen can appreciate how Mr. Goodwin or authority. Tis would go a long way Mather (superintendent on leave) other government people would be towards solving the problems. claimed that “up until the 1st day of hesitant about pushing forward too July their hands were tied because Tings did improve. By 1920, Hill much their ideas of the necessities there was no money available for the was still calling for better trails. of the Park, which could be done by needed work.” Actual funds HAD During that summer, $17,000 was someone connected with the Glacier been appropriated (this might have set aside by acting Superintendent Park Hotel Company.”

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 19 THE HUMMEL ERA The End of the Line for the Great Northern Railway and a Tumultuous Two Decades

By John Dobbertin, Jr. (Glacier Park Lodge 1962-63)

Almost from the beginning, the of all these parasites as quickly as railway’s Glacier operations fail possible.” Whether he is referring to to produce profts. From 1918 to some of the chalets that have fallen 1933, there are just three proftable into disrepair, or the whole Glacier years—1923, 1925, 1931—and loss- operation is not clear…but the senti- ment cannot be disputed. It has been my opinion since the es in all the others totaling $258,659 summer of 1962 that had Don ($4,731,000 in 2016 dollars). Other Te hotels and lodges close for three Hummel not purchased in 1960 documents show losses continuing years during World War Two. Fol- the Glacier National Park conces- through the late 1930s. lowing the war, vacationers travel to sions, we would most likely have Tere are internal memoranda among Glacier Park by automobile. Recre- lost several of the great properties senior Great Northern ofcials about ational train travel to Glacier Park we have today. More recent research how to constrain the losses, or move dries up. reinforces my earlier view. them over from the hotel com- To reduce costs, the railway gives Following the establishment of Gla- pany to the railway. A 1940 railway Sperry and Granite Park to the Na- cier National Park in 1910, a great memo reports the IRS rules it will tional Park Service, sells Belton Cha- chain of lodges and chalets is envi- not permit the railway to write of lets, razes chalets at Two Medicine, sioned by Louis Hill, son of Empire the losses of the Glacier Park Hotel Cut Bank, St. Mary and Sun Point. Builder James Jerome Hill. Yale- Company “therefore, no beneft has In 1946 the railway begins trying in educated Louis Hill is instrumental been received from this contract by earnest to sell the renamed Glacier in behind-the-scenes infuence in the GNR for tax purposes.” Park Company. Tere are no buyers. establishing the park, and personally supervises construction of the Great Northern Railway’s Glacier Park It has been my opinion since the summer of properties. 1962 that had Don Hummel not purchased in Louis Hill believes Glacier Park and 1960 the Glacier National Park concessions, we the Great Northern’s lodges, hotels, would most likely have lost several of the great and chalets will bring proft to the properties we have today. railway. He said: “Every passenger that goes to the national parks… represents practically a net earning.” William Kenney serves as president of Railway Merger Forces Sale In 1914, the Great Northern creates Great Northern from 1932 to 1939. To understand the timing of the the Glacier Park Hotel Company In the depths of the Depression he December 1960 Hummel purchase “to take over the investment which is challenged to constrain costs and of the Glacier Park concessions— has been made in Glacier National complains about the Glacier Park and what a close call it was—it is Park.” hotels, saying “we must rid ourselves important to look at an enormous

20 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail merger involving the Great Northern Company concession only if the rail- sible to sell an enterprise that is run- Railway. Tis has a direct impact on way will subsidize him for a period ning huge annual defcits. You have the railway’s money-losing, wholly- of fve years. Great Northern notes: to fnd a customer who believes a owned subsidiary the Glacier Park “During the four years under Knut- turnaround is possible. And that cus- Company. son corporation’s management sub- tomer will have a nagging question: If stantial sums have been spent on the an enterprise like the Great Northern In 1955 Great Northern President properties while gross revenue has can’t make this work, how can I? John Budd and Northern Pacifc increased expenses have also risen.” President Robert Mcfarlane agree to Great Northern considers selling Te railway incurs losses from 1956 merge the two railroad companies. of individual properties. Tey turn to 1959 of $477,000 average per Tessie Bundick states in Te Inside down an ofer from Brewster Trans- year ($3.8 million in 2016 dollars). Trail, Spring 2004: “According to port of Banf for the Prince of Wales Tey turn down Knutson’s ofer. the terms of the merger, the Federal Hotel and the bus company. government insisted that they (the railroad companies) divest them- At the eleventh hour in 1960, with the selves of all unproftable subsidiaries except raw land.” cancellation date of the Glacier Park concession Once the merger discussions begin, contract imminent, railway executives reach out it is clear Great Northern will soon to a person with experience operating National have to rid itself of the Glacier Park Park concessions: lawyer and Mayor of Tucson, Company. Tey could cancel their contract with the National Park Arizona, Don Hummel. Service and walk away, or spend a great deal of money in a short time Bleeding money from their Glacier Following years of discussions with and upgrade the Glacier Park hotels, Park Company—and under pres- Federal agencies, the ofcial agree- lodges and motor inns to increase sure to comply with Federal regula- ment to merge involving the Great the chances of fnding a buyer. Great tions for the proposed merger—the Northern, the Northern Pacifc and Northern President John Budd— Great Northern in 1960 notifes the two other railroads is announced in with a soft spot for the Glacier Park National Park Service “that efective 1960. Te incorporation of the new operation—opts for the upgrades. December 31, 1960 Glacier Park company named Great Northern Pa- Company will terminate its op- cifc & Burlington Lines is scheduled Te railway retains the Don Knutson eration of the properties within the for January 1961, to be immediately Hotel Company in 1956 to manage Park….” It is my belief that certainly followed by the formal merger ap- and modernize the Glacier opera- would have been the end for Many plication to the Interstate Commerce tions, budgeting $3 million ($25 Glacier Hotel, Swiftcurrent and Ris- Commission. million in 2016 dollars) to make ing Sun. It would most likely also Great Northern Turns to Hummel them more attractive to a buyer. have been the end for Glacier Park Lodge, the Red Buses, and possibly At the eleventh hour in 1960, with In his book View With A Room, Ray the cancellation date of the Glacier Djuf notes: Most guest rooms have the Prince of Wales Hotel. It is dif- fcult to see how any of the Glacier Park concession contract imminent, shared baths. Some kitchen refrig- railway executives reach out to a eration is provided by blocks of ice Park Company entities—inside or outside the Park—could have person with experience operating cut from Glacier lakes in the win- National Park concessions: lawyer ter. Cooking stoves are old navy oil survived without the core support of a centralized reservations system, and Mayor of Tucson, Arizona, Don burners. Gift shops are tiny or non- Hummel. Great Northern believes existent. Electrical systems are almost warehouse, transportation center, laundry, and management team. Hummel would be acceptable to the a half-century old. All this changes. National Park Service. Toward the end of the moderniza- Great Northern scours the nation’s fnancial centers in search of a buyer, In his book One Man’s Story, pub- tion project, in 1959 Don Knutson lished in 1988, Hummel notes that ofers to take over the Glacier Park with no results. It is almost impos-

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 21 when he saw the books his enthusi- in that the operation of Glacier had Since I am under the legal drinking asm for the Glacier Park operation been entailing losses up to $580,000 age and unable to join the nightly cooled. He sees the railway had not a year….I took that over in 1960 and procession of several GP, Inc. ofce made a proft on the Glacier Park have been operating it ever since… folks over to one of East Glacier concessions since 1940. Without losses, I might say. Any Park’s better known watering holes, I single kind of loss of that kind would am not privy to prime ofce gossip. With the clock ticking, Great have been the end of my career.” One item was shared once in 1962 Northern property manager James by an ofce exec: “Hummel acquired Kenady tells Hummel the railway Hummel possesses several positive the Glacier Park concession for less is informing employees they will strengths that make him able to see money than you have in your pocket not operate the park facilities in the there is opportunity in the Glacier right now.” It didn’t take a lot of following year. If Hummel is really Park operation. It started when he calculating to know Hummel had interested in the Glacier operation, was young and with friends built acquired the concession for zip. the key employees need assurances the concession at Lassen Volcanic they will have jobs at Glacier. In late National Park. Te concession at Purchase Made With No Hummel summer, Hummel meets Kenady in Mount McKinley National Park had Money Montana and takes a one-day tour been a loser before Hummel took Hummel goes into great detail in his of all the Glacier Park Company over, the prior concessionaire having book about the negotiations with holdings except the Prince of Wales gone bankrupt. Hummel knows how the Great Northern. Here is the Hotel. Hummel is overwhelmed by to identify losing parts of a conces- short version of how he acquires the the beauty of Glacier Park. sion and turn them around. Glacier Park concessions with no personal money involved. Ian Tippet—at the time gen- Hummel is no doubt one of the eral manager of Lake McDonald more controversial persons in Glacier t
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Lodge—remembers his frst meeting Park history. I know some found him Northern and Hummel agree on a with Hummel on this tour. Tippet to be cold and stern. I have person- price of $1,300,000 for the Glacier recalls it is a Sunday and “Hummel ally always attributed much of that Park concessions. Te deal: $250,000 already seemed to know a lot about to Hummel the businessman strug- down payment and the balance over me.” Hummel invites Tippet to gling with the challenge of making 10 years. Hummel names his com- manage Many Glacier Hotel, to be the Glacier operation at least break pany Glacier Park, Inc. his personnel manager, and to come even…and we employees doing our t
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to Tucson for the winter. best to enjoy a summer in the most Cut Bank, Montana and wants its magnifcent place in the world. In an oral history for the Lyndon Ba- products sold in Glacier Park. Te ines Johnson Library taken January My opinion of Don Hummel may president of Union Oil meets with 13, 1969, Hummel states: also difer from that held by others. Hummel. Hummel ofers to have In 1962 Hummel provides me one their products sold by Glacier Park, “During my last term as Mayor of of the greatest professional breaks a Inc. And he ofers Union Oil 25 Tucson…I was called by ofcials of 19-year-old could have. He promotes percent of preferred stock in Glacier the Great Northern Railroad, advis- me from the laundry to be his pub- Park, Inc. in return for $250,000. ing that they wanted to get out of lic relations director. Much later I Te deal closes and Hummel has his the operations in Glacier National learned the old-school-tie probably had down payment for the Great North- Park and wanted to know if I was in- a hand in my landing that job. When ern. terested in purchasing their interests. I walked into his ofce at Glacier Park t
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After negotiating with them I de- Lodge and told him I could do the of the Glacier facilities at the end cided to take over the operation and suddenly available public relations job of December 1960. Now Hum- set up the company, Glacier Park, and that I was a student at the Uni- mel needs operating cash to carry Incorporated. I had some difculty versity of Michigan I had no idea he through until cash fow begins in raising the money in that many of my was a Michigan Law School grad! the 1961 season. He fnds $100,000 friends thought I had lost my marbles cash in Glacier Park Transport

22 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail Company, operated by the railway Before the 1961 park season begins, tory. Hummel believes the Knutson as a separate company and part of to cut costs Hummel reduces the Company—which managed Glacier the concession deal. He asks Great employee head count by 400. As the Park Company from 1957 to 1959— Northern to leave the $100,000 vast number are seasonal jobs, and intended to take over the Glacier in the account and increase the most young people sign up for just operation and loaded up inventory purchase price to $1,400,000 ($11 one year, this is not a mass layof. Te for the gift shops. Hummel holds a million in 2016 dollars). Great impact of the reduced stafng is felt 50% of gift shop sale and dumps the Northern agrees and Hummel has by returning and full-time employees. merchandise, retiring the debt. his operating cash. According to Ian Tippet: “Lodge staf At the close of the 1961 season had their work ethic tested in 1961. For their time and efort in at- Glacier Park, Inc. has accumulated We were expected to work our butts tempting to fnd investors and other $200,000 in cash on a total income of. Great Northern didn’t make a assistance, Hummel apportions his of $1,400,000. Hummel is quick proft, where Hummel had to.” brother Gail and his old University to point out that is not proft, but of Michigan roommate Don Ford 1961 positive cash fow. Tis is a fantastic each seven percent of the Glacier In 1961 Hummel is mayor of Tuc- achievement in view of the an- Park, Inc. stock. son, and actively involved in na- nual losses stacked up by the Great tional mayoral issues. Tis includes Northern. To the plus side for Great Northern a visit to President Kennedy in the on the sale to Hummel, “the tax Union Oil wants out of their stock White House Rose Garden on May beneft from loss of approximately ownership in Glacier Park, Inc. 28, 1961. $700,000 from (below) book value ($5.6 million in 2016 dollars) could be recovered by the Glacier Park At 1:30 a.m. Glacier Park, Inc. Chief Company in two or three years.” Engineer Cy Stevenson calls and tells him: Hummel Challenged Tere are many fnancial and mana- “Hummel, you’re out of business. They just gerial adventures ahead. One of the blew up the power plant.” more trying is almost continuous governmental discussions that pre- Being mayor of Tucson, Hummel Hummel secures a bank loan by clude Glacier Park, Inc. from secur- visits Glacier Park every other week- mortgaging property at East Glacier ing bank fnancing for long-term end. He later recalled the visits were for $100,000 and that—together improvements to facilities inside the very frustrating. “I was disturbed with $150,000 from accumulated boundaries of Glacier Park. Banks to see the lack of organization and cash—buys out Union Oil’s 25% believe those holdings inside the park control, the failure to control costs stock ownership. Hummel appor- are not secure as they are subject to and the overabundance of employees tions 10 percent of that stock to his the whim of the government. When for the amount of business we were brother Gail, and 10 percent to his Hummel needs funds, he mortgages doing.” old college roommate Don Ford, East Glacier Park holdings—includ- keeping fve percent for himself. ing Glacier Park Lodge—as these are But Hummel is afraid that if he dis- outside Glacier Park. It does not help misses employees in the brief times 1962 that there is growing pressure from he is there, the word will spread and In the early part of the 1962 sea- environmental groups to eliminate he will “lose control of the employ- son, Hummel fies to Washington, buildings inside the National Parks ees.” In an efort to control costs, all D.C. for a meeting of the Advisory and to return everything to wilder- expenditures—other than routine Commission on Intergovernmental ness. Hummel struggles with this expenses—require his approval. Relations (he is a member). He through almost the entire time he has Another challenge is the obligation checks into a hotel. At 1:30 a.m. the Glacier Park concessions. to pay $52,000 a month for four Glacier Park, Inc. Chief Engineer Cy months for the gift shop inven- Stevenson calls and tells him: “Hum-

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 23 mel, you’re out of business. Tey just hours has a boiler crew on the way to Four days later…storms dumped blew up the power plant.” Glacier Park. Tey work round-the- up to 13 inches of snow across the clock and the boiler room is put back western half of the state.” Cyril “Cy” Stevenson was a longtime in operation. Hummel is profuse in employee of the GNR. He stays on Ten come warm weather and the his thanks to the Great Northern. at Glacier after Hummel takes over, deluge. On June 7 and 8 Essex gets and Hummel considers Cy one of 1963 11 inches of rain in 30 hours. Te his most valued employees. Hummel Tis is my second season at Glacier combination of the heavy rain and knows Cy’s summation of events is Park. If Hummel has a worried look rapidly melting snow brings on the always terse. it is for good cause. A threatened rail worst fooding in northwest Montana strike has been hanging since early in in modern times. Hummel immediately heads back to the year. Te threat teeters on-and- Glacier Park. Here is his description At 4:00 a.m. June 8, Cy Stevenson pounds on Hummel’s door with the Later in the morning Hummel begins learning news that “there is a torrent of water coming down Midvale Creek.” the extent of the fooding. At East Glacier it Later in the morning Hummel be- takes out the water system. All communications gins learning the extent of the food- within Glacier Park are cut off. ing. At East Glacier it takes out the water system. All communications within Glacier Park are cut of. of what he fnds: “Te boiler room of. Te end result is one-third of the was a total disaster, with the roof tour groups intending to arrive by Hummel’s friend Stewart Udall, raised some three feet and all of the rail cancel for fear of being stranded Secretary of the Interior, is sched- sides pushed out, except the one in in Glacier Park by a strike. Hummel uled to speak that day in Browning. front of the boiler. Fortunately, this makes adjustments, but it hurts the Udall takes Hummel by U.S. Army was the place where the boiler engi- fnancials for the season. helicopter to Many Glacier Hotel, neer stood and he was uninjured. landing in the hotel parking lot. On the plus side, Hummel installs Hummel learns that Swiftcurrent “Te man on duty was a professor a swimming pool out by the Cha- Lake rose and put one-and-one-half who had every type of certifcate for let. Even that is not accomplished feet of water in the lower foor of the boilers that you could get, but he without difculty as the contractor Many Glacier Hotel. Manager Ian did not have much common sense. skimped on the cement mix. Hum- Tippet has furniture moved to ban- An electrical storm had cut of the mel cancels the contract and suc- quet tabletops, saving the furniture. igniting fame and the warning in cessfully defends against a lawsuit Te Many Glacier water system and the boiler that the fre was out was a brought by the contractor. Hummel sewer systems are out. Swiftcurrent large Klaxon sound. Instead of fol- has the pool fnished. Motor Inn is completely fooded. lowing procedure of shutting of the 1964 fuel and starting the exhaust fans, As Udall and Hummel fy south this professor put a torch down into Tis is the year of Te Flood. they follow the rail tracks and see the boiler and promptly blew up the Others have covered this subject in vast stretches of washed-out Great entire system.” prior issues of Te Inside Trail. From Northern roadbed. Further south, Don Hummel’s viewpoint the food parts of U.S. Highway 2 are de- Cy and his assistant Howard Olson stroyed for a distance of 15 miles. temporarily patch things together to of ’64 is an enormous fnancial blow. keep the Glacier Park Lodge kitchens In a 2011 article recalling the food, Lake McDonald rose six feet in eight functioning so the guests can be fed. Te Daily Inter Lake said: “As of May hours, putting the Village Inn’s frst Cy knew the Great Northern still 1, gauges across Northwest Mon- foor under water to a depth of three had specialist crews to repair boil- tana were registering snow depths as feet. Lake McDonald Lodge took a ers. Hummel calls the president of much as 75 percent above average, major hit when Snyder Creek turned the railway, John Budd, who in two with above-average water content. into a river wiping out half the kitchen, the dining room freplace, 24 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail and leaving four feet of silt in the en- continues with the fres of 1967 and tion. Te deal closes in March 1981. tertainment building. the tragedy of Te Night of the Griz- Hummel is no longer a national park zlies. concessionaire. To add to the disaster, the manager of Glacier Park Lodge is found wan- Upon leaving HUD in 1968, Hum- (Tanks to Tessie Bundick and Ray dering the halls saying: “Gee, what a mel is invited to merge his three Djuf for their help with historical beautiful hotel.” Hummel believes he National Park concessions—Las- information. Te opinions expressed has had a stroke and sends him home. sen, McKinley, Glacier—with U.S. are strictly those of the author.) And the manager of the Two Medicine Natural Resources. USNR is an oil Sources for information in this article Camp Store, Mr. Sweet, dies of a heart and gas exploration and develop- are: Don Hummel’s books One Man’s attack trying to drive from Two Med ment company, which had branched Life and Stealing the National Parks; to East Glacier. out into investments in recreational Ray Djuf and Chris Morrison’s book lands. Hummel sees this as an op- Trough herculean eforts of many Glacier’s Historic Hotels and Chalets— portunity to have stock in a hot agencies, Glacier Park opens June 29. View With a Room; Ray Djuf’s book company providing security for his And Glacier Park, Inc. opens the facili- High on a Windy Hill—Te Story of the family, something the concessions ties one-by-one. A signifcant part of Prince of Wales Hotel; Christine Barnes’ could not do. the season—and revenue—is lost. book Great Lodges of the National Hummel agrees to merge Lassen Parks; Tessie Bundick, Te Adven- Te great food makes national news. and McKinley, but not Glacier, and tures of Harlan Bernston, Renovating Doris Stalker, the director of the signs a fve-year contract to manage Glacier’s Lodges 1957-1959—Te Montana Highway Commission’s Lassen, McKinley and Yosemite. He Inside Trail, Spring 2004; Chronol- advertising department— a friend of fnds that USNR is good at mergers, ogy of the Northern Pacifc & Related Glacier Park, Inc. and a friend of mine but poor at operational ability, and Land Grant Railroads, July 24, 2001; in 1963—calls in some favors and is heavily leveraged. When he departs Missoulian, March 28, 2010, Paral- able to place articles in major newspa- U.S.N.R. and returns to Glacier in lel Tracks: Glacier National Park born pers. Glacier Park Still in Business is the May 1974, he says “the stock made from Great Northern Railway; Hungry headline in an article appearing in the attractive wallpaper.” He loses the Horse News, Oct. 2, 2013, Concession June 28 Chicago Tribune travel section: McKinley and Lassen concessions. Contract Will ‘Pull Apart the Lodges’; “Widespread reports that Glacier park facilities will be closed for the summer Three of the four major hotels—Glacier Park Lodge, are completely untrue and damaging to one of Montana’s most popular va- Many Glacier Hotel, and the Prince of Wales cation areas,” Stalker said in the article. hotel—are open and in complete operation.” “Tree of the four major hotels—Gla- It is another tough year for Don Hummel and cier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, and the Prince of Wales hotel—are Glacier Park, Inc. open and in complete operation.” By 1977 Hummel is ready to sell Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway It is another tough year for Don Hum- Glacier Park, Inc. In his book he (p. 106), by Brian Solomon; Minutes mel and Glacier Park, Inc. says: “Watching private enterprise in from Great Northern Railroad Executive the parks being eroded by govern- Committee meeting August 24, 1960, 1965 and Beyond ment zealots pained me.” and various GNR internal memo- In 1966 Hummel is appointed Assis- randa, Minnesota Historical Society tant Secretary for Housing and Urban Hummel comes close to a sale to Library; General Services Administra- Development. He hesitates to accept, TWA Services. Trough tortuous tion National Archives and Records of but his wife encourages him to do so. twists and turns, incredible battles Service, Gift of Personal Statement by Hummel’s nephew Al Donau—who with the National Park Service, and Don Hummel to the Lyndon Baines had been running the Lassen opera- another deal almost made with Del Johnson Library, January 13, 1969. tion—agrees to take over at Glacier E. Webb Corporation, Hummel Opinions expressed are strictly those of while Al’s wife runs Lassen. Turmoil fnally sells to Greyhound Corpora- the author.

The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 25 Remembering Alice Edwards (September 26, 1924 - July 17, 2015)

For the many of us who were welcomed into the Edwards’ Glacier family over the years, Alice you are missed!

A shot from the summit of Mount Gould. This group was a collection of Summer visitors together with Many Glacier and Swiftcurrent employees. Alice is circled. (Rolf Larson photo.)

Rolf Larson (MGH 1975, ‘77-80) Shortly after Alice received her Bach- much, their adopted summer home. elor’s Degree in 1946, the couple was Gordon led climbs, hikes, and al- Alice was the spirit within a family married. Teir daughter Jane was ways sought alpine insects, especially of climbers who gathered each sum- born in 1952. beetles. Also, during this time, with mer in Swiftcurrent Valley of Glacier Alice’s support, Gordon pioneered National Park. For the better part of Upon earning his doctorate in ento- routes to more than 70 peaks and 50 years, the Edwards’ family shared mology, Gordon accepted a teaching authored “Te Climber’s Guide to their enthusiasm for exploration position at San Jose State University. Glacier National Park”. with others who shared their love of Teir life together centered around Glacier. Te magical days spent with living in San Jose during the aca- Originally, Alice joined Gordon on them in the backcountry were “a demic year and spending summers as adventures because she was worried slice of life” of shared by young and a Ranger Naturalist for nine years in about him. She didn’t worry as much old, alike! Glacier Park. when she came along. She quickly found that she enjoyed climbing. Alice Althaus Edwards was born in Tereafter, summer after summer, Tis became a family tradition. By Kuhling, China, of missionary par- the Edwards just kept on com- age 8, Jane became a full partner in ents. When she was two years old, ing back to the place they loved so these family expeditions. the family returned to the United States and settled in Bethel, Ohio, Thereafter, summer after summer, the Edwards where she grew up. just kept on coming back to the place they Alice attended Ohio State University loved so much, their adopted summer home. where she met J. Gordon Edwards.

26 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail Alice was a quiet, soft-spoken person. All three members of the Edwards Just remember, the soul of the Ed- She never sought out the spotlight family were also excellent musicians, wards family was in just that – the but do not be fooled, once you saw playing the piano for their own family. Gordon and Jane were Alice’s her on a mountain, she was very enjoyment, as well as for friends and inspiration, her joy in life. Together, capable. She was always in control of family. I remember Gordon occa- they chose to celebrate their lives herself and surely one to be consulted sionally playing the piano in the St. as a family experiencing wilderness when working out a route or recall- Moritz room on stormy nights. Alice adventures. It was their genuine love ing details of a day in the mountains. and Jane were also coaxed to show of the mountains, their open view of She was a true mountaineer. their keyboard skills. If my memory what makes a family that enriched is correct, Jane also accompanied an and expanded so many of our lives. She climbed all of the 10,000-foot occasional Serenade or Band perfor- For the many of us who were wel- peaks in Glacier, as well as a major- mance in the St. Moritz. comed into their Glacier family over ity of the peaks that found their way the years, Alice you are missed! into ‘Te Climber’s Guide to Glacier After her husband and daughter National Park,’ She also climbed the preceded her in death (Gordon dy- (My thanks to Sylvia Geshell for her Matterhorn in Switzerland, as well as ing in 2004 and Jane in 2005), Alice assistance writing this tribute.) many climbs in the Grand Tetons.

Alice was a quiet, soft-spoken person. She never sought out the spotlight but do not be fooled, once you saw her on a mountain, she was very capable. She was always in control of herself and surely one to be consulted when working out a route or recalling details of a day in the mountains. She was a true mountaineer.

Occasionally, she didn’t go with Gor- remained in San Jose for the rest of don, but if the destination proved her life, maintaining a beautiful gar- to be special, Gordon would share den. As was true throughout her life, it with Alice. In Gordon’s words, “I she shared her garden with the local climbed a ridge behind Clements wildlife and neighbors. A photo from an exciting day and found another route that con- In early 2015, she moved into a care following a goat trail along the tinued on over to Mount Cannon. I back side of the Ptarmigan Wall. In facility, where she died peacefully on liked the trip so much that the very characteristic fashion, Gordon led, July 17th after a brief illness. next day I took Alice over the same followed by Alice. Jane was always at the back. (Rolf Larson photo.) double climb. She liked it as much as I.” Tey were a special team! The Inside Trail ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ 27 The soul of the Edwards family was in just that – the family. Gordon and Jane were Alice’s inspiration, her joy in life.

The Edwards’ family enjoyed climbing as a family unit. Here they are on the slopes of Mount Gould. (Rolf Larson Photo.) JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in fve installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonproft corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law. (Panorama by Christine Baker)

28 ☐ Spring 2016 ☐ The Inside Trail