ISSN 1854-0805 (business culture environment politics sports) 06 June 09 bidding for its first headquarters of aN european agency contents Veronika Stabej Good relations…

…are important and valuable in every area of life. This is even more true when it comes to relations between different nations. Particularly if they border each other. The old saying “every neighbour is a mirror” holds true more than ever. And because of the people who have remained on one side or the other each time that history has decided to shift national borders, there are many of these mirrors. Although calling them “minorities”, which logically means “less than the majority”, may at first glance appear to assign them a reduced importance, it is precisely these people who enrich relations between nations and represent the driving force behind cross-border and regional interconnection.

Good relations between neighbours are also part of our national anthem – not in vain do we sing “…no more shall foes, but neighbours be!”

In this issue of Sinfo we devote quite a bit of space to good neighbourly relations and to the position of minorities. The ambassadors’ letters in this issue offer a view of Slovenian-Hungarian relations and the position of the minorities on either side of the 43-45 Natural trails 45-47 Cultural trails border. An important guardian of minority rights is the Office for Hiking, south slopes of Krn Pumpkin oil National Minorities, which was founded in 1959 as the Office for Minority Affairs and is this year celebrating its golden jubilee.

12-15 Interview 37-39 Sports 20-26 Art and Culture Good relations between individual countries are also reflected in Dr Ernest Petrič Cycling - 38,000 kilometres and speechless Ballet Days on the streets of mutual support. Slovenia is currently attempting to win the support of other EU Member States for its bid to host the European Agency for the Cooperation of Energy Regulators (ACER). If the bid is successful, this would be particularly significant for us because of Slovenia’s role in the realisation of the philosophy of efficient operation of the energy market. Not only that, but Slovenia is also point of intersection between the EU energy market and the energy market of South-East Europe.

The inhabitants of Goriška Brda could surely tell us a thing or two about good neighbourly relations. Goriška Brda is a magical world of gentle hills dotted with farms and covered with vineyards and orchards. The soil is unique and ideal for the cultivation of vines. Several of the area’s winemakers have vineyards on both sides of the border – on both Slovenian and Italian soil. The wines thus reflect the special characteristics of their environment, and above all they know no borders or hard feelings.

Sinfo – Slovenian information Editorial: Government Commnunication Office, Director: Veronika Stabej, Gregorčičeva 25, 1000 Ljubljana, Government Communication Office:www.slovenia.si tel. +386 (0) 1 478 2630, fax + 386 (0) 1 251 2312, www.ukom.gov.si Government Communication Office:www.ukom.gov.si Editor-in-Chief: Vesna Žarkovič, [email protected] Government Institutions: www.gov.si Editorial Board: Albert Kos, Mateja Malnar Štembal, Valerija Mencej, Jože Osterman, Polona Prešeren, Slovenian Tourist Board: www.slovenia.info Andreja Šonc Simčič, Andrej Savelli, Branko Vidrih Slovenian Chamber of Commerce and Industry: www.gzs.si Photo Editor: Maja Slavec Slovenian Chamber of Craft: www.ozs.si Production: Nuit d.o.o., Translation: Amidas d.o.o., Printed by: Mond Grafika Public Agency of the RS for Entrepreneurship and Foreign Investments: www.japti.si Number of copies: 4600 Ljubljana Stock Exchange: www.ljse.si Available also at: www.ukom.gov.si/eng/slovenia/publication/sinfo Statistical Office of the Republic of Slovenia:www.stat.si Cover photo: STO archives, Sailing in Koper Bay State Portal of the Republic of Slovenia: http://e-uprava.gov.si m o n t h l y r e v i e w

Andrej Savelli International conference Slovenia elects new Members of the Bled Strategic Forum

on Roma education The numerous challenges the world is facing today are Croatia Pulls Out, Slovenia themselves greatly affected by the global economic crisis, On 25 and 26 May, as part of Slovenia’s presidency of the Slovenian voters elected to the European Parliament two members each which has raised profound questions about our current Committed to EU-Sponsored Talks Council of Europe, an international conference on Roma from the SDS and SD, and one each from the NSi, LDS and Zares economic and financial systems and subjected existing education was held at Brdo pri Kranju, entitled “Roma parties. The SDS won 26.65 percent, the SD 18.45 and NSi 16.53 geopolitical arrangements to new consideration. Now in its The EU-sponsored talks between Slovenia and Croatia collapsed on 18 education: achievements, opportunities and challenges for percent of the vote. In fourth and fifth place were the LDS with 11.50 fourth year, the Bled Strategic Forum (30 and 31 August) June as Croatia turned down Commissioner Olli Rehn’s latest proposal, the future”. The aim of the conference was to underline the and Zares with 9.77 percent. Romana Jordan Cizelj (SDS), will be addressing many of these interdependent economic which included some of the amendments proposed by Slovenia, for the importance of education for the successful integration of (NSi) and Jelko Kacin (LDS) were all re-elected. The newly elected MEPs and geostrategic issues. The underlying theme permeating way the countries could resolve their dispute and break the impasse in Roma and nomadic communities in Europe. This was the are Milan Zver (SDS), Zoran Thaler, Tanja Fajon (both SD) and Ivo this year’s event will be relations between the Euro-Atlantic Croatia’s EU accession talks. Slovenia regretted the decision, while Rehn concluding conference in a three-year Council of Europe Vajgl (Zares). All the Slovenian MEPs except for Ms. Jordan Cizelj were community and Russia. Just as in the past three years, guests said the countries must find a solution themselves. “We think this is bad project on the education of Roma. The conference offered a elected through preferential voting. at the Forum will include prominent politicians, leading and we remain committed to this process,” Slovenian Foreign Minister meeting place for the representatives of ministries of Council members of the business community and representatives Samuel Zbogar said after he came out of a meeting with the Enlargement of Europe Member States dealing with issues of Roma of international institutions and forums, the academic Commissioner and Croatia’s Foreign Minister in Brussels. However, education, experts from numerous international organisations, STA photo: community, non-governmental organisations and the media. Zbogar said Slovenia was willing to continue the process whenever Roma organisations and non-governmental organisations. Over the course of two days, leaders will take part in five Commissioner Rehn or anyone else might think it necessary, or see any Conference participants addressed topics such as preschool themed panels and various accompanying events. The chance of continuing the process. Slovenian Prime Minister Borut Pahor education, recognising non-formal learning, recognising central themes will be global governance and the need to said Slovenia sustained the process of talks throughout. “When Rehn Roma culture, policies for ensuring access and high-quality reform it, the role of regional cooperation, institutional decided to propose mediation, Slovenia accepted it, and Croatia didn’t. education, and teacher training. The participants took the reform of the UN and the role of growing market economies When Rehn proposed arbitration, Slovenia proposed amendments, which view that early inclusion in preschool education is extremely as a response to the increasing interdependence of economic, Croatia did not wish to accept and in this way broke off the process.” important for successful learning in all later periods. security, social and environmental issues. Pahor said if Croatia wanted to continue its accession talks with the EU Cooperation between governmental and non-governmental Europe’s security structure is the special theme of this now it should tackle the issue of documents which Slovenia deems to be organisations should promote the cooperation of Roma in year’s Forum. Participants will discuss the strengths and prejudicial to the border dispute. The documents were the reason Slovenia all matters affecting their education. Recognising the history New Slovenian members of the European Parliament. weaknesses of the Russian proposal for a new European blocked the accession talks in October. and culture of Roma and itinerant groups is indispensable security architecture and establish whether a new security in establishing the self-confidence of this minority, and this Government sets up arrangement is necessary, and how this could affect subject must become an essential component of national cooperation between the Euro-Atlantic community and photo: STA photo: curricula. A knowledge of these issues will contribute climate change office Russia. to eradicating stereotypes and prejudices, and will be an The panel on the economic crisis as a threat to security will important factor of integration for the members of this The Government adopted a resolution establishing a climate change deal with the possible consequences of the recession on minority in society. Participants of the conference also agency. The move is significant given the effect of climate change on security in society and in the international community. The touched on the fact that the Council of Europe project everyday life. According the environment minister, , Slovenia panellists will discuss the risks attached to accompanying “Education of Roma children in Europe” is still very little is paying close attention to combating climate change, and has various trends – increasing protectionism and deglobalisation – and known in many countries. It has also been insufficiently strategies and a climate change act in preparation. Establishing a climate expected changes to geopolitical arrangements. exploited in formulating appropriate policies for the more change agency is important for horizontal integration and management The panel on energy security and the effects of the global successful facilitating of equal access of Roma to education of various policies relating to climate change. As Erjavec pointed out, the economic crisis on it will discuss the elimination of the “Until Croatia has found a way to deal with the prejudicial documents so and thereby fulfilling the recommendation of the Council of environmental ministry is not the only one with responsibility for climate they do not threaten Slovenia’s vital interests, Slovenia will not change its uncertainty that accompanies investments in projects to position,” PM Borut Pahor asserted on the sidelines of the EU summit. Europe on Roma education. change. Last year the EU adopted a climate change and energy package, ensure the transit and storage of fuels and the development which the minister said was extremely complex, and included a number of new technologies and projects to increase energy Government Sets Vignettes Prices The aim of the conference was to underline the importance of of directives, which Slovenia will not only have to introduce to its own efficiency. education for the successful integration of Roma and nomadic legal system, but also ensure it reaches all the environmental objectives The panel on the importance of regional cooperation The government set the prices of motorway toll stickers, confirming that communities in Europe. within the directives. Erjavec said that climate change was already having initiatives will discuss challenges in the region stretching the weekly sticker shall cost EUR 15. The price of the annual sticker a major impact on daily life. This could be seen in mid-June, which the between the Baltic, the wider Black Sea area and the Caspian has been set at EUR 95, up from the current EUR 55, while monthly eastern half of the country was affected by large hailstorms, which were Sea. The key questions will be whether these initiatives can vignettes shall cost EUR 30. Motorcycles will have weekly and annual attributed to climate change. combine the approaches of Russia and the European Union vignettes at half the price, while a half-yearly sticker will cost EUR 25. and help countries improve development opportunities and The changes introducing monthly and weekly toll stickers in addition to increase their ability to eliminate destabilising factors.

annual vignettes and abolishing half-yearly vignettes, were passed by the STA photo: The now traditional focus on the Western Balkans is National Assembly end of May, after the European Commission expressed represented by the panel devoted to the concrete challenges criticism over the system. The commission had initiated proceedings According the environment of the region in facing the consequences of the global photo: Ministryphoto: of Education and Sport against Slovenia and frozen EU funds for construction of Slovenian minister, Karl Erjavec, Slovenia economic crisis. Discussion will focus on the development motorways, claiming the system of six-month and annual vignettes for is paying close attention to opportunities of the countries of the Western Balkans this combating climate change, and has EUR 35 and 55 respectively, introduced in July 2008, is discriminatory various strategies and a climate year and next year and on the potential impact of the crisis towards foreigners and that the prices are not proportional. change act in preparation. on the process of integrating the region into the EU.

  Vesna Žarkovič, Government Communication Office On 12 June, at the vote to decide the headquarters of ACER, the new European This Agency in particular means a very great photo: European Communities, STA energy agency, Slovenia received the highest support from EU Member States, deal to Slovenia. It is not just any agency but but it was not enough to secure victory in the first round.G iven that no can- one of extreme importance – and one which didate received a sufficiently high majority of votes from all Member States, a will only gain in importance in the years to decision was taken to defer the final decision to a later meeting, most likely at come. ACER will be something comparable the end of June or in July. Slovakia and Romania are the other two countries to the European Central Bank. that have applied for the headquarters. None of these three Member States are Agency for yet host countries of any of the approximately 35 European agencies, which are largely divided between the old EU Member States and three new members. Mary Veronica All three countries have been lobbying for a number of months. Ljubljana and Bratislava are regarded as the most serious candidates. They are seen as being Tovšak Pleterski, Cooperation of fairly evenly matched. Slovenia is not a member of any similar bloc, but it has Deputy Ambassador to the EU: lobbied intensively around the European capitals, for example in the countries of Scandinavia. It emphasises as its greatest advantage the role it has played in adopting legislation to liberalise the energy market, which is also the basis for the operations of ACER. It is common knowledge that, at the time, Slovakia op- Energy Regulators posed the agreement to liberalise the energy market. Since 2007 our work in the field of energy Matej Lahovnik, has been intense and extremely demanding. Minister of the Economy: Particularly in the last year we have managed (ACER) to make great progress on two most impor- tant legislative dossiers, the internal energy market package and the climate-energy package. It is at this point that we all need to focus on the work to be done for the benefit of future generations. It goes without saying that electricity and natural gas are currently at the centre of the development of Europe’s prosperity. Slo- venia believes that ACER, an independent regulatory mechanism at the EU level, is of Slovenia is endeavouring to acquire its first key importance for the future development headquarters of an European agency – the Agency for of the single energy market. For the imple- Slovenia’s candidacy for the headquar- Cooperation of Energy Regulators (ACER). This new mentation of its demanding tasks, a proper ters of the new European agency ACER We believe that we have a good chance. At the working environment will be necessary. It is unique – especially given the country’s energy agency is to focus on regulation of crossborder technical level, we are the best candidate, but would be a great honour for Slovenia if it role in realising the philosophy of an effi- matters relating to the gas and electricity market, the political dimensions of the process are, as were to become the location of the Agency’s ciently working energy market on which thereby supplementing and coordinating the work everybody knows, a bit like shuffling a pack headquarters. ACER is based. One very specific factor of cards. Different countries put forward their is Slovenia’s motivation in this regard. We of national regulators. Electricity and natural gas are candidacy for various agencies and functions have shared this philosophy seriously and at the centre of Europe’s prosperity and EU Member within other international organisations, but Janez Kopač, for many years, and not just since we began the general political context does also play its Acting Director of the Energy to talk about the Agency. Slovenia will give States all agree that we need a competitive and spirit and heart to the work of the Agency. efficientEU market in gas and electricity. A working part. Directorate at the Ministry of I am in the process of convincing my fellow the Economy: It is worth remembering here that, during single European energy market is a prerequisite ministers that Slovenia is a beautiful country Slovenia’s Presidency in the first half of last for achieving ambitious goals in the area of energy on the sunny side of the Alps, with a great year, the EU reached a key agreement to deal of knowledge in the field of energy. The liberalise the energy market, for the effi- and climate policy. The third legislative package on response on the technical level has, of course, cient working of which ACER will be re- energy legislated the setting-up of the Agency for been very good; everyone recognises that we sponsible. As is well known, Slovakia was at Cooperation of Energy Regulators (ACER), to establish possess the necessary knowledge and condi- that time among those states that opposed tions that make Slovenia the right location for the agreement. Of the other advantages of an independent regulatory mechanism at the EU the headquarters of the Agency. This would its candidacy, we should point out the fact level. ACER will be of key importance for the future be the first time in its history that Slovenia that Slovenia is a bridge between the EU development of the single energy market. has become the host country of any Europe- and South-Eastern Europe, is one of the an agency. It is very important for Slovenia to safest countries in the EU, has one of the be entrusted with this Agency – among other safest environments for foreign investors, things, because it is awaiting a number of ma- is part of the eurozone and the Schengen jor projects in the field of energy. Area, enjoys a very good transport position

  and transport infrastructure, and offers a of Member States that submit a candidacy. cial Journal of the EU. Publication in the Of- sible from all parts of Europe. Slovenia is good quality of life. There is a whole string of reasons that sup- Background ficial Journal is planned for June/July 2009. an economically well-developed country, is The offer that Slovenia has made as part of its port Slovenia’s candidacy as the location for • Unofficially it is expected that the Agency Slovenia’s stable and enjoys a high quality of life. candidacy is also worthy of mention: privi- the headquarters of the new European en- • At a session held in spring 2007, the Eu- will begin work at the end of 2009/begin- leges and immunity as part of the protocol; ergy agency, including the fact that it has, as ropean Council called on the Commission ning of 2010, after selection of management candidacy • Slovenia is practically ‘in line’ to receive diplomatic status for senior officials (which yet, no European agency. to propose further measures to develop the and specialist staff has been completed. The • The Slovenian government endorsed the a headquarters. The new Member States of is not part of the protocol); newly built A few years ago – specifically, in European single energy market, including the ‘establish- decision on the location of the headquarters candidacy at its regular session of 12 Febru- , Hungary and Lithuania have al- premises that can be occupied immediately, Council decisions adopted in 2003 – Mem- ment of an independent mechanism for co- will most likely be adopted during Sweden’s ary 2009 and first presented it to the Energy ready been allocated a European headquar- with no rent payable in the first two years, to ber States undertook to give new agencies to operation between national regulators’. Presidency of the EU (autumn 2009). Council (TTE) in Brussels on 19 February ters. Slovenia withdrew from its candidacy get the Agency up and running quickly. new Member States, and last year made an 2009. for FRONTEX and the European Institute Slovenia also points out that it has, as yet, no additional undertaking to give priority in al- • In September 2007 the Commission there- for Gender Equality (along with 10 other European agencies. In a European Council location to Member States which as yet had fore submitted the third legislative package for Main tasks of • Slovenia is committed to a principled in- Member States, it is continuing with its can- decision adopted in 2003, Member States no European agencies. the single energy market, which included the terpretation of the 2003 and 2008 resolu- didacy for the Galileo headquarters, which undertook to give new agencies to new Slovenia is a small and safe country with low draft Regulation of the European Parliament ACER tions of the European Council stating that has currently not been established). Member States, and last year made an ad- levels of crime, open to all cultures, with a and of the Council establishing an Agency for the headquarters of newly established EU ditional undertaking to give priority in al- good education system, which is important the Cooperation of Energy Regulators. • The Agency will supplement at the Euro- agencies should be situated in new Member • The Slovenian regulator is extremely active location to Member States which as yet had for the officials that would come to work pean level the regulatory tasks that are car- States, primarily those that have not yet been internationally and is well-respected by oth- no European agencies. here, and has an extremely good quality of • The second reading was completed on 6 ried out at the national level by regulatory allocated a headquarters. er European regulators (the vice-president life. These are things that will attract people April 2009. The Regulation will enter into authorities. of the CEER is a Slovene). Slovenia takes to the country. force 20 days after its publication in the Offi- part in numerous international regulatory Andreja Jerina, • It will adopt binding decisions and will Arguments in forums (Madrid, Florence), and the city of State Secretary at the regulate the European gas and electricity Maribor has hosted the Energy Community Government Office for market (all cross-border issues and network favour gas forum. Development and European codes). Affairs: • During its Presidency of the EU, Slovenia • Slovenia is also the point of contact be- • The Agency’s main tasks will include: (a) played an extremely constructive role during tween the EU energy market and that of provision of a framework for cooperation very difficult negotiations on the new, third South-Eastern Europe, which the EU is between national regulators; (b) regulatory legislative package on the single energy mar- attempting to bring into the fold through supervision of cooperation between trans- ket, which among other things established implementation of the EU energy acquis mission network operators; (c) an authori- ACER. Slovenia was able to foster a political (Energy Community Treaty). Since Slove- sation to adopt individual decisions; (d) a compromise on the most disputed proposals nia is particularly strongly connected with general advisory role. put forward by the Commission. events on the energy market of South-East- ern Europe, as well as being engaged in vari- • Slovenia has the euro and is part of the ous projects associated with it, the symbolic Staff Schengen Area. Slovenia is a safe country value of ACER headquarters is that much with low levels of crime and is easily acces- higher for Slovenia. • ACER will employ between 40 and 50 people (highly qualified staff recruited with- in the European Communities system).

• The Staff Regulations of Officials of the European Communities and the Protocol on the Privileges and Immunities of the Eu- There is a whole string of reasons that sup- ropean Communities shall apply to Agency port Slovenia’s candidacy as the location for employees. the headquarters of the new European en- ergy agency. Submission of this candidacy • Given the nature of the Agency’s work, a does not mean that Slovenia is withdrawing large number of representatives of national its candidacy for the headquarters of Galileo. regulatory authorities from other EU Mem- We are convinced that this Agency will find, ber States will travel to Slovenia, which will in Ljubljana, all the conditions necessary for constitute a major opportunity to promote its work and that Slovenia can be an excel- Ljubljana and Slovenia as tourist destina- lent host, given its natural and economic tions. features, transport links, and the fact that it lies within the Schengen Area and the euro- zone, which will make it considerably easier Financing for people from the Agency to work and live there. Whether the headquarters are al- The annual costs of the Agency shall be cov- located to Slovenia depends on the number ered by Community funds.

  Text and photo: STA

Slovenian minority are more minorities than we previously practice. Second, the lack of recognition considered, and that bilingualism is more for minorities living in Slovenia that do BORUT PAHOR common than we thought. The OSCE not have official minority status. This is (Prime Minister): has created the post of high commissioner almost a taboo subject, but the courage I am starting from the basic finding that on national minorities, and the Council must be found to address it. the position and role of the national mi- of Europe has started to increase the level legislation is among norities today is being defined by a new to which it incorporates minority issues, European culture, and new European val- which require further development, into ues arising from integration, intercultural JOŽEK its human rights activities. dialogue and respect for cultural diversity. Minority problems have been a unifying HORVAT MUC the best in Europe theme throughout the Council of Eu- (President of the Roma rope’s 60-year history, and Slovenia still STANE BALUH Community Council): offers a kind of example in the field. This (Director of the Office for The Roma Community Council has insufficient presence and influence; the One of Slovenia’s priorities for its regulated. One issue that requires also means that the Slovenian state expects National Minorities): I consider that our efforts in the field can parliament has not deliberated a report on chairmanship of the Council of Eu- a new approach to be found is the its neighbours to act in the same manner. serve as a useful example that now, during the status of the Roma community, while rope is policy and legal protection issue of the indigenousness of na- Multiculturalism is a value that enriches the CoE chairmanship, we can offer all the government has not yet adopted the for minorities. Slovenian minor- tional minorities, since Slovenia us rather than threatening us, and minor- CoE members as well as EU member government programme for the Roma ity legislation is among the best in now has – in addition to the indig- ity community organisations must be seen states. community. I would say that the greatest Europe. Discussions were held on enous Italian and Hungarian com- as groups that are addressing the relevant obstacle to better results is the lack of 16 June at Brdo pri Kranju on mi- munities – ‘new’ minorities, which issues. Governments should put condi- trained and qualified staff from the Roma norities in Slovenia and Slovenians the Council of Europe has made spe- tions in place that allow them to express population, since at present there are only living outside the Republic of Slove- cific mention of in its recommenda- their plurality and subjectivity. FRANCO JURI 15 Roma who have completed higher nia. The panel discussion was pre- tions. Relations must also be re- (President of the Italian education studies. pared by the Government Office for evaluated with Slovenians abroad Community in Slovenia): National Minorities, to mark its 50th who no longer speak Slovenian. The BOŠTJAN ŽEKŠ I consider that Slovenia has some anniversary. The basic concept of international conference or panel, (Minister for Slovenians exemplary solutions in relations with the meeting was that conditions in nevertheless, confirmed Slovenia’s Abroad): minorities, though there are still some this field have changed, which must leading role in European legal pro- The Council and Europe are changing. unresolved issues. First, the constitutional be reflected in a change in how it is tection for minorities. We are slowly becoming aware that there and legal position has to be put into

10 11 Dr Petrič, this is a fair number of true sense of the word. It is difficult to de- ture director general, whoever he will be, different functions; which was your fine this using criteria such as education will have to enjoy broad support. favourite? and years of work experience alone. The It is best when one is young. If you are personality of the diplomat – whether he You ascribe great importance to the healthy and if the people around you are or she has one or not – is what is most agency. also healthy, if you are not burdened by important. Because it is important! The peacetime use more serious things, if you grow up free, of nuclear energy is rapidly increasing; 60 if you are relaxed and self-confident, that At a recent closed meeting of the new countries want to make use of this is what I like best. All my experiences and Board of Governors of the Inter- form of energy. It involves both great se- functions were pleasant. I experienced and national Atomic Energy Agency curity risks as well as great potential for got to know a great number of things. I (IAEA), at which a straw poll of the development. There is also the problem of travelled extensively all over the world. All candidates to succeed IAEA Direc- the use of nuclear technologies in health the experiences I gained are a wonderful tor General Mohamed ElBaradei was and farming, not just for energy, although basis for my present work as a constitu- held, you did not gain support. Will this agency – which is 50 years old – is tra- you continue with your candidature tional court judge. Here I deal with asylum ditionally still known as the International

INTERVIEW or do you intend to step down? seekers and Roma people, and without Atomic Energy Agency. But it has been I have not yet reached a decision about covering other areas of nuclear technology my past experiences I would undoubt- this, as quick decisions are not the best for a long time now. All this demands true edly find it harder to reach decisions. In ones. The most votes, 20, were received international cooperation, which is in our this way one matures through numerous by the Japanese ambassador to the IAEA, common interest, so it is a bad thing if the experiences, and this maturity represents Yukiya Amano, with 11 by the South Af- agency is internally divided. A Slovenian a quality which is worth as much as my rican ambassador to the agency, Abdul candidate could have represented recon- expertise in international law. It is nice to Samad Minty. These two candidates were ciliation; we wanted to help overcome this be wise, interesting, educated, or put sim- already present in the first round of voting division. ply: a personality. in March this year, when neither received the necessary two-thirds majority of the In the light of your vast internation- Those are important characteristics vote. This highlighted the divide between al experience, how do you rate the required of a diplomat. the Western member states of the agency reality of present-day international That is true. Unfortunately they are not which support Amano, and developing life? always present in diplomats. The genera- countries which back Minty. In an effort That is a very broad question. Following tion of Slovenian diplomats with which I to overcome this divide, three candidates the fall of the Berlin wall we have been identify myself has unfortunately come to from the EU, including myself, posted faced with a new world, the totalitarian pass. This was undoubtedly a great genera- their candidature. regime has crumbled and a time of opti- tion which played an important role. Now The Belgian Jean-Pol Poncelet, former mism has dawned – new hope for peace. it is the turn of our younger colleagues. vice-president of the Belgian government It seemed as though it would be easier I regret that so much time and effort is and current vice-president of the French to solve humanity’s problems. The end devoted to discussing whether diplomacy nuclear energy conglomerate Areva, and I of world division based on power blocs should be professional or not. Of course did not receive a single vote. After all it brought about new possibilities. But the it must be professional. Diplomats should Vesna Žarkovič Diplomat – ambassador to India, the was Slovenia that put me forward as a can- world remains divided, there are many photo: Michele Drascek train at special institutions set aside for didate, and it will be necessary to wait and long-lasting differences between the rich U.S., the UN and Austria – long-time this purpose. We are one of the few coun- see how things develop running up to the and the poor, we are faced with terror- professor and doctor of international tries which does not have a special dip- formal vote. I am surprised by the result ism, the world as a whole is still far from law, Dr Ernest Petrič has lectured at lomat training scheme, as it is somehow of the vote. I expected the three European enjoying prosperity and many problems scattered across the different university candidates to together receive between are still being solved too slowly. There and been the director of the precursor faculties. In Vienna there is a diplomatic eight and ten votes. is now also the struggle for natural and Dr Ernest academy which produces professional dip- to the present-day Faculty of Social Seeing as there were only four votes in energy resources. The world is definitely Sciences in Ljubljana, a minister lomats. The course of study is recognised support of the European candidates, all of in a better state than it used to be, there all over Europe, and it was only in Slove- them for Echavarri, I wonder who the EU are more possibilities for solving prob- Petrič: in Kavčič’s government, president nia that graduates from this academy had supports. And above all I am disappointed lems, but unfortunately less progress than of the Board of Governors of the problems obtaining recognition for their that this divide, which our candidatures what we hoped for in the 1990s has been International Atomic Energy Agency in studies. Openness between universities is aimed to do away with, persists at the made. I expected more of a community Every effort was essential, as the university by definition IAEA. The members of the IAEA remain spirit. I see European countries which on Vienna, president of the International means variety and diversity. Diplomats divided and polarised, and this is extreme- the outside appear beautiful, ordered and Law Commission (ILC) and now now come from all walks of life; there ly problematic considering that this is an peaceful, but when I travel by plane, for worth making constitutional court judge in Ljubljana. are even actors among them. A diplomat important agency both for the future of example, or in certain public places where must be educated and cultured and must nuclear energy and technologies as well as you are thoroughly searched, I realise how feel that he or she is a personality in the the dangers connected with them. The fu- very much the world has changed since 11

12 13 INTERVIEW vate individual in the U.S. Well, actually I in the country. The people that work here know about the mass murders perpetrated organisation. What is the nature of had a similar status; officially I was a “rep- are very friendly. I realised that my exper- by the communists at Kočevski Rog and your work in this organisation? resentative of a foreign political entity”. tise can be made use of and that I could be Huda Jama; we knew that many people I aim to continue working in this com- That is approximately how I was treated. of help – in a different way than someone disappeared during the war, but we were mission for as long as it is possible. It is in- I had no diplomatic rights, privileges, im- who was a high court judge until yester- not concerned about this. We felt that we tellectually extremely exciting work which munity, nothing. I arrived at the airport day. I have never returned verdicts before, were rebuilding our homeland, that we unites 34 top legal experts. We all have a with my wife and youngest daughter and but the attraction of my work here is the were building a new and more just world. solid grounding in international law. Our went to a hotel. Then, beginning with a combination of university teaching, differ- We said no to Stalin, we drove Hitler out. main task is to ascertain what interna- co-worker who came from New York and ent fields of law and my function as judge. Then slowly seeds of doubt began to grow. tional law is in certain areas and develop other people who joined us a few months One person sees this side, another one the Some of us began realising that we were on it progressively. This is a long-term activ- later, we began setting up our embassy in other. The combination is interesting and the wrong path. The Czech Spring tried to ity; we are trying to conceive international Washington. This was very difficult.- Ex enjoyable from a professional and an intel- bring about a thaw and a consequence of legal instruments which will maybe with tremely difficult, but also exceptionally lectual point of view, and when I realised this was what then went on in Yugoslavia time become conventions. Among other beautiful. Every effort was worth making, this was the case, that my point of view and Kavčič’s government. For me this rep- things, we are currently working on un- because I felt like a missionary establish- and my contribution can also be of use, resented a new start in the right direction. derground water resources which are lo- ing something new for this Slovenian this gave me a feeling of self-confidence. I was fascinated by the practical attitude cated in more than one country. Whether September. When the Berlin wall fell, we EU accession, as solving the dispute also country which we had finally acquired af- of Kavčič’s government – this was when this will become a convention I cannot yet did not of course expect any of this. defines Croatia’s expectations in joining ter a thousand years of fumbling around. I What is a constitutional court judge we planned the motorway network, began say. This year we will decide if we will go the EU. I think it is bad that many coun- felt particularly lucky and privileged to be expected to strive for? What have thinking about a nuclear power station, ahead and include a discussion about how And where in all this are the real tries of South Eastern Europe which have doing this. And in Washington, which in you realised in this first year that founded Ljubljanska Banka, a new re- we will manage sources of crude oil. We you have been at this post? publican computer centre, thought about challenges for Slovenian foreign not taken a deeper interest in the dispute some ways is the centre of global power. are aware of the great sensitivity of this The Americans gave me a good welcome A judge should always be guided by the a gas supply because we did not want to policy, and what are the achievable now believe that accession is difficult and matter. A very interesting open question – for two reasons. They wanted to be very highest values; his or her moral authority depend on Yugoslavia for our energy re- strategic goals? that they too will have to wait longer. is also that of the protection and rights of well informed about what was happening should by nature be greater than that of sources. This was fascinating. I liked Stane Slovenian foreign policy is preparing a people in the case of great natural disasters in the Balkans. That is why informally I others. The Constitutional Court is the Kavčič. There then followed a campaign strategy for its operation which is by all In the course of your outstanding and other such situations which must be had very good access to the State Depart- highest protector of constitutionality, le- by 25 MPs and its failure, which meant means useful, not so much because of the diplomatic career you were always settled according to the new rules of inter- ment, Senate and various other institu- gality, human rights and fundamental the end of a more liberal attitude in Slove- new document as because of the clash posted to difficult, exposed posts national law. tions. The other reason was that - asam freedoms. But above all, the court must nia. I left the Slovenian political scene, or of various arguments and new opinions where you never enjoyed a comfort- bassador to India, I had cooperated very always be honest. Sometimes I find myself rather they expelled me. Luckily I was not Let us end on this note. Thank you which will surface in the discussion. Oth- able shade. You were ambassador to well with the Americans. I had done them faced with extremely difficult decisions: burdened by anything unpleasant which for talking to us. erwise Slovenian politics is by definition India, the U.S. and in Vienna. What several favours. At the State Department the last one, for example, was in con- they could accuse me of and thereby halt stretched between global and local mat- are your memories of this period they were aware of this cooperation. nection with the referendum for solici- my future career. The year was 1972. With like? ters. The latter give us greater possibili- And then Vienna. This was also a new tors. I thought long and hard about how the help of friends in the West I left on ties for success, as well as being of special Wonderful. And again wonderful – above experience; it is close, even too close, to I would vote. I thought purely in terms a mission to Columbia. It was wonderful economic interest. There are always prob- all because of the work, which was inter- home. There were an awful lot of visits of legal logic, with a vision of whom the in this beautiful country. There then fol- lems between neighbours, but relations esting everywhere. India is a fascinating and various meetings. law serves and what is in the forefront. Al- lowed a mission to Iraq, where I worked at with Austria are nevertheless good and the country. It was also a wonderful time be- ways the person. A concrete example is a their Ministry of Science; then I returned same could be said for Italy. We have lived cause that was when Slovenia was born. I And now you are a constitutional person on trial who must have access to home, wrote a book and received a prize side by side with the Croats for 1,300 was the Yugoslav ambassador to India at court judge. For a year you have legal assistance. And I made the decision for my research. Then I went to university years and have never come into conflict. the time when Yugoslavia presided over been in the role of protector of that I made. The court can never satisfy all in Ethiopia and in 1986, when the regime We are burdened with the problem of the the non-aligned movement. And India human rights and the constitution. parties. There is also the independence of began to soften, I became dean of the Fac- border, which we have not yet solved. In was its main partner. My work there was How do you feel about this transi- the Constitutional Court and its general ulty of Social Sciences. foreign policy, the direct connection be- very important and full of responsibility. tion from diplomacy to law? reputation, which are not always as good tween the means you have at your disposal I learnt a lot at that time especially be- Better than I expected. In 1994 I had the as they should be. Ten years ago the Con- You are also the president of the and the targets you set yourself is one of cause I was working from the position of a possibility of becoming a constitutional stitutional Court was more respected than International Law Commission (ILC), the key questions. You can have wonderful country presiding over this movement, no judge, but I turned down this offer because it is today. That is a shame. If the judiciary a helping body of the UN General goals but be without the means needed to matter what the movement was, and in re- my work in Washington was not yet com- begins to have problems, if people lose Assembly whose aims are the codi- achieve them. Both sides are very strongly lationship with a very important country, plete. We were finally becoming a player confidence in the jurisdiction, then this is fication and progressive develop- convinced that they are right, and in such which India undoubtedly is. Then one day and things in the U.S. were getting more very bad for society – much worse than ment of international law. Leading situations there is very little room for Minister Rupel called me and said: “At the interesting. A year and a half ago I again if people, for example, thought that MPs a group of 34 global experts is one compromise. It is like dialogue between Demos meeting we decided to make you received the same offer; several posts for were no good. of the most prestigious functions deaf people. I was personally in favour our representative in Washington.” constitutional judges were vacant. Some in international law. After presid- of mediation, as it is more flexible than people believed that it would be good if How do you remember the begin- ing over the International Atomic arbitration. But arbitration is also a good How did the U.S. welcome you when there was an expert on international law ning of your career as a minister in Energy Agency, this is the second option if we succeed in agreeing upon it. you came? among them. I was a little worried about the executive council in the 1960s? time that as one of a rare number In a way it is not good that the problem Our country had not yet received interna- how I would get on, but I soon found that The young generation thought the- pe of Slovenians you have taken up a is being solved in the context of Croatia’s tional recognition. Formally I was a pri- this is one of the best-ordered institutions riod after the war was idyllic. We did not leading position in an international

14 15 { BU$IN¤SS ...... } Vesna Bertoncelj Popit, DELO, photo: STA over the following two years they rose to Samo Hribar Milič, said that the World inflation in Slovenia would start to fall € 2500/m2, € 3000/m2 in 2005, and now Expo was a great opportunity to increase due to the crisis and that deflation might cost circa € 3350/m2. awareness of Slovenia on the Chinese set in, these fears were not realised, and The largest companies in Slovenia last The Government and energy companies market. The Slovenian president, Danilo inflation remained at 0.6% in May. The year by total revenues were the Petrol oil in Slovenia and neighbouring countries Türk, visited Jordan and agreed with King increase in oil prices may also contrib- company, the Mercator retail group, the have reached agreement on future coop- Abdullah II of Jordan, that progress in ute to an increase in inflation in coming Novo Mesto car factory Revoz, which is a eration in energy and building new over- economic cooperation between the two months. subsidiary of Renault, the oil trader OMV head power lines between Slovenia and countries was particularly significant in According to data from an interest group Slovenija from Koper, and the Merkur Italy and gas pipelines between Slovenia, cooperation between the Jordanian port of software producers, their members lost retail company from Naklo. The high- Croatia and Hungary. Ljubljana is com- of Aqaba and the Port of Koper, as well 36 million euros in Slovenia due to soft- est net profits were achieved last year by peting to become host of the Agency for as in energy and telecommunications, but ware piracy, and if one takes into account the pharmaceutical company, , from the Cooperation of Energy Regulators more had to be done to increase coopera- new jobs not created due to reduced rev- Novo Mesto, and Telekom Slovenije, the (ACER). Slovakia and Romania are also tion in the field of tourism. enues, and which could have contributed Lek pharmaceutical company, Mobitel competing for this agency. Patrick Pélata, Chief of Operating Officer to faster economic growth the loss of earn- and the Slovenian energy holding com- Before summer, Slovenia and Russia are of Renault, said that in future the Novo ings is even higher. pany, Holding slovenske elektrarne, all set to sign an agreement on a southern Mesto-based car maker Revoz would be The Urbana transport payment card is be- based in Ljubljana. The highest added European gas corridor that would cross placing a new model of car on the mar- ing tested in the Slovenian capital, Ljublja- value per employee was achieved by TUŠ Ukraine and the Black Sea and then pass ket, a two-seater cabriolet, which can be na, which is intended to replace monthly Nepremičnine (692,000 euros per em- through Greece, Serbia, Hungary and Slo- produced by the same machines currently bus passes, as well as enabling payment for ployee, with 32 employees), which is a venia. Slovenia has prepared a list of fa- used to produce Twingo and the Clio II. car parking and travel on the funicular to subsidiary of the Celje-based TUŠ retail cilities it would like to include within the However, experts stated that car sales in Ljubljana Castle. A 90-metre building is company. The company with the - high Russian clearing debt programme, which Slovenia continued to fall, and in May planned for Ljubljana’s BTC City retail est number of employees last year, over most countries have already agreed with 24% fewer new cars were registered than park, to be built by spring 2011, which 12,000, was Mercator, though this may Russia in recent years. for the same period last year, while the will be the tallest building in Slovenia. The well not be the case now. Many compa- China presented its World EXPO 2010 in year-on-year fall in April was as much business building, which has already been nies that recorded a profit throughout last Ljubljana, which will be held in Shanghai as 37%. In Germany, however, sales in- dubbed the Crystal Palace, will have 22 years recorded a loss in the first quarter of and in which Slovenia will participate. creased, which is positive for Slovenian storeys. Revoz will be placing a new model of car on the market, a two-seater cabriolet, which can be pro- this year. The general secretary of the Slovenian suppliers of car parts. duced by the same machines currently used to produce Twingo and the Clio II. Slovenia has over 107,000 micro enter- Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Although some economists forecast that prises generating annual revenues of less Director of BTC, Jože Mermal, anticipated that A Government decree came into force at held in Portorož in mid-May, the econo- than 2 million euros, which represents around half the premises in the building will the start of June, according to which the mist Dr Mojmir Mrak offered the assess- 96% of the total number of enterprises be sold in the next two years, while the other half will be leased. Government will pay 85% of basic salary ment that the crisis was not deep enough in the country. However, according to to employees whose companies have been to lead to major changes in the global estimates by the Slovenian Chamber of forced to put them on stand-by (awaiting financial architecture. If the EU and the Commerce and Industry, in the past five recall to work), due to a lack of orders. United States were not prepared to take a months the number of companies has This should help slow down the growth different approach to the developing eco- fallen by more than one thousand, with in the number of registered unemployed, nomic superpowers, Mrak stated, it would over 14,000 employees losing their jobs with small enterprises and entrepreneurs. which went past 84,000 before the end of only lead to an attempt to revise the ex- Among 116 requests submitted to the Slo- May, and by mid-June was already over isting situation. It is very wrong, in his venian Government by micro enterprises, 85,000. opinion, that global trade is growing more the first was a call for a small business om- According to Institute of Macroeconomic slowly than the global economy. budsman. Analysis and Development (UMAD), Dr Jože Mencinger assesses that the eco- The Chamber of Property Trading re- economic conditions in Slovenia im- nomic crisis has brought at least two posi- ported that property trading halved, that proved in May and June, but the Gov- tives; first, that European and Slovenian property prices were falling and sales were ernment remained wary of the estimates, politicians have stopped repeated niceties taking longer to complete. They are in fa- since the Slovenian economy’s significant about the Lisbon Strategy, second, that vour of the Government promoting prop- export orientation – primarily focused on economic policies have abandoned parts of erty sales and establishing an apartment western European markets – means it is the Stability and Growth Pact that he con- renting market. However, the public’s very dependent on economic conditions sidered pointless. Plans that the EU would purchasing power has fallen by 27% over in Austria, France, Germany and Italy, as only deal with services and financial hold- the past four years, and average household well as Croatia, Belgium and the Nether- ings have not happened. Mencinger said it borrowing is now eight times more than lands, and a number of other European has been seen that workers in Europe are monthly income from work. Advertised countries. not prepared to work for just 200 euros a prices for studio flats took five years to At the Ljubljana Stock Exchange’s 26th month, so making shirts, shoes and chairs rise by 500 euros per square metre from Financial and Stock Market Conference cannot just be left to the ‘Chinese’. 1998 to 2003 (€ 1500 to € 2000), while

16 17 Darja Bavdaž Kuret, Dr József Czukor, Slovenian Ambassador to Hungary State Secretary responsible for

Relations between Slovenia and Hungary are In addition to traditional trade, opportunities to link bilateral relations with European countries based on a friendly and neighbourly partnership, transport and energy infrastructure are increasingly demonstrated by regular political dialogue at all levels current. Some of the most important projects in this in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and widespread contacts and cooperation between field include the South Stream gas pipeline, Pan- the countries in many areas. This forms a sound European Corridor V, which is extremely important platform for my work in Budapest, however, relations for the Port of Koper and the development of between the two countries, excellent as they may be, logistics and goods centres, the Cooperation cannot be considered statically, because in a world of Process, and more effective realisation of economic Dear Slovenian Colleagues, rapid change they are influenced by increasing ever potential. We can expect that trade will be affected more varied factors. This means I have two guiding by the economic crisis, but – together with a business Readers of SINFO, principles for my tasks as the Slovenian ambassador to club in Budapest – the embassy and companies from The Hungarian-Slovenian political, economical We are concerned with Hungary’s and Slovenia’s Hungary: taking care to maintain the level of bilateral Slovenia will continue to look for new opportunities. and cultural relations have developed positively co-operation in European affairs. The preparation relations achieved to date, and constantly seeking out We will take care of experience and cases of best along the common values and mutual interests of Hungary for presiding the European Council new opportunities, even outside the bilateral context. practice in promoting economic cooperation and use photo: personal archive since Slovenia’s reaching of independence. The in 2011 is well underway. The necessary photo: personal archive I consider that it is particular important that our all the tools available to diplomats to strengthen that common values, our good neighbourhood, coordination framework has been adapted. The countries make the best use of all the opportunities cooperation. The central and south-eastern European membership in the EU, mutual belonging to majority of the Presidency staff has been selected for collaboration within the EU and Nato, and other region is very close to us in many elements, and both the NATO as well as the historical and cultural and their training launched. We thank Slovenia international – global and regional – forums, which countries realise numerous strategic interests in the heritage reaching back to a common past give us for sharing her presidency experience. brings new content into mutual cooperation and region as well as economic. a good base to maintain the reliable partnership The issue of the national minorities has a great gives it greater dimension. Finally I would make mention of an area that and the privileged neighbourly relations in importance in our bilateral relationship. We There are two key connecting elements within relations can be described as last, but not least – culture, the upcoming period. As former Hungarian appreciate the constitutional rights granted for between Slovenia and Hungary – our minorities and education and science. Cooperation in these areas is Ambassador to Ljubljana, I regard the Hungarian- the Hungarian community in the Republic being neighbours. In my view, the potential that the inextricably connected with the other areas and gives Slovenian relations as excellent and intensive. of Slovenia and continue to provide all the two elements offer has not yet been fully utilised. sense to them. Successful economic cooperation is Hungary is higly interested in maintaining the rights for the Slovenian community granted for Both offer a great deal: being neighbours facilitates inconceivable today without cooperation on science, reliable partnership and privileged neighborly minority self-govenments in the Republic of favourable economic links on the basis of cross- and scientific cooperation cannot take place with relations. With the aim of deepening the already Hungary. The objectives and requests made by border and regional cooperation, while the minorities working together on education. In Slovenia we have established co-operation we continue the intense both communities are understandable and legally offer added value, enriching reciprocal relations in sincerely welcomed the EU decision to locate the high-level political dialogue. The first joint correct. But the demands for increasing financial FROM AMBASSADOR LETTER a very special manner. We would like to continue European Institute of Innovation and Technology government session in October 2007 in Lendava support in the midst of recession requires cautious open dialogue with our Hungarian partners on all (EIT) in Budapest. Slovenia contributed to the and Szengotthárd (Monastir) is regarded as a approach from both minority communities and issues, both theoretical, and those linked to tangible decision as it held the EU Presidency at the time, cornerstone in our dialogue. We plan the second governments. Despite of the crisis, the progress of projects, for which there is a good institutional and and was aware of the opportunities a new agency in joint government session in autumn this year. The business investments in the respective regions can legal framework in place. An intergovernmental a neighbouring country could bring for Slovenian main objectives of the session will be the cross- help the living of both the national communities. agreement was signed in 1992, and recognises special scientists. Efforts must be made in the field of culture border co-operation and better interconnection of Our business relations has developed successfully rights for the Slovenian ethnic minority in Hungary to ensure greater exploitation of the geographic infrastructural networks of both of our countries. in the last couple of years. Business cooperation and the Hungarian national community in Slovenia, closeness and open wide the doors of a rich cultural The next significant event which will take place shows accelerated growth in bilateral trade and established a mixed commission to monitor heritage of the two countries. on 1st of July, 2009 is PM Borut Pahor’s visit to economic relations. Companies from both implementation of the agreement. We want to place I would like to close my letter with the idea that I Budapest. Moreover, President Dr. László Sólyom sides have interests in closer co-operation and development opportunities for the two minorities have arrived in Budapest at a very exciting and very will visit Slovenia on the 8th and 9th of October, investment projects. Hungarian Telecom is at the forefront of cooperation that encompass the important time for both our countries. Slovenia 2009. working on a strategic partnership with Telekom wider region, which should be plentiful in a border has just successfully completed one of its most This year Europe is celebrating the demolition of Slovenije and Hungarian oil company MOL area between three EU member states (Austria, demanding tasks since independence – the six-month the Iron Curtain, that led to the democratic change invited PETROL in the MOL-INA-Slovnaft Hungary and Slovenia). presidency of the European Union and launched of the political regimes and the independence of strategic co-operation. Hungary is interested in Economic cooperation is definitely one of the most new challenges on the international scene, such as some countries in Central and Eastern Europe. the co-operation in the field of energy security. The important areas, and one which the embassy in the current chairmanship of the Council of Europe’s A joint research in the diplomatic and public recent gas crisis had shown that the missing links in Budapest will continue to pay considerable attention Committee of Ministers, while Hungary is preparing archives, historian’s conferences, publishing the infrastructure in Central-, and South-Eastern to in order to strengthen contacts between competent for its own EU presidency in 2011. For ‘new’ EU studies and shooting documentary films can Europe are undermining the creation of unified institutions and economic entities in both countries. members, the presidency is a kind of test of maturity, point out the interaction of the Hungarian and internal energy-market in Europe. Hungary has Hungary is one of Slovenia’s largest business partners, which makes it very important for our two countries Slovenian revolutionary events. As my personal the interest to integrate the three separate gas ranking sixth overall; trade with Hungary represents to display solidarity on the presidency project. initiative, I will further promote the researches markets and strengthen the interconnection of 3.4% of Slovenian trade. Numerous Slovenian Hungary supported Slovenia during its presidency for both Governments, which I believe will be a electric power markets of Europe. companies are present on the Hungarian market, with various forms of practical assistance (seconding worthy commemoration of the events in Hungary As State Secretary responsible for bilateral including the Port of Koper, Krka, Gorenje, Trimo, experts, hosting Slovenian diplomats in the buildings and Slovenia during the establishment of the relations with European countries in the Ministry Aero, Etol, Elan, Kompas, JUB, and Iskra avto- of Hungarian diplomatic facilities, where Slovenia did Slovenian independence and the Hungarian- of Foreign Affairs, I shall continue to further elektrika. The volume of trade is over € 200 million. not have its own infrastructure), and Slovenia is now Slovenian diplomatic relations. develop Hungary’s and Slovenia’s relationship.

LETTER FROM AMBASSADOR Slovenian investments are not high, but are directed sharing its experience with Hungary and assisting in towards strengthening the competitive advantage of preparations to take on the demanding task. We wish the Port of Koper and primarily relate to logistics and them every success. warehousing capacity. 18 19 The phenomenon of the APT and Novo Mesto Mysterious Kluže Jože Osterman, photo: Nada Žgank Jože Osterman, photo: Boštjan Pucelj Kluže is one of the best known tourist attractions in military trenches and military communications of all Compared to the established mode of work of most other economic, political and cultural fields who today are making the Posočje region, with an attractive auditorium and types, and full of thousands of soldiers with enormous theatres, Slovenia’s youngest professional theatre, the Anton a decisive contribution to leading the country. The theatre exhibition spaces which host temporary exhibitions quantities of military hardware. The account of the Podbevšek Theatre (APT) in Novo Mesto, founded in 2005, is merely the last stage in a series of institutions that have alongside four permanent exhibitions presenting the armies that clashed in this part of Europe, their actually prefers what might be described as commando tactics. appeared as the result of an awareness that the time has come history of northern Posočje, in particular the different national and cultural composition, and Named after an “anarchist” poet from the early 20th century, for the town to fulfil its potentials in the sphere of cultural area. Above all, Kluže – like the First World War their battles, deaths and also joys, all of which has left Anton Podbevšek, a native of Novo Mesto and the author of institutions too. Alongside the renowned Miran Jarc Library, museum in Kobarid, just over 40 kilometres to the a unique stamp on the area, is well worth a visit and a provocative collection of poetry entitled The Man with the with its long tradition, and the rapidly developing museum, south – has opened itself to the history of the Soča some quiet reflection. In the Bovec area, historical Bombs, which systematically derailed the traditional artistic which is rightly considered one of the finest regional (Isonzo) Front, which in this valley undoubtedly memory has also contributed to the founding of a practice of the day, the APT constantly and consistently lives up institutions of its type, the founding of a centre which passes represents an event that has left a permanent mark society of enthusiasts of the legacy of the Soča Front, to its name. Led since the very beginning by the controversial from reproduction to creation is a logical step. on the area. In view of the fact that quite a number the 1313 Society, which stages reconstructions director Matjaž Berger, responsible for a number of surprising of the descendants of people who were affected or of various events of the war and conjures up for productions, notably at the Slovenian Youth Theatre, but In Slovenian theatrical circles the opinion prevails that the marked by the Soča Front are still alive today, and spectators the atmosphere of the front from almost at the same time the man who transformed official state work of the APT is a concentrated exploration that is not given that interest in this horrible yet awe-inspiring a century ago. celebrations in the 1990s into an artistic event and drove particularly compatible with the traditional conception of the period of history is growing, events at Kluže represent political discourse out of the spotlight of public attention, the theatre. The difficulties that the theatre experiences as a result an interesting combination of historical facts and Out of these historical frameworks comes the young team of the APT shakes up its environment in the of this are perhaps reflected in fewer invitations to take its modern cultural events, and attract an increasing second, contemporary part of artistic activity at same way that Podbevšek did, but at the same time with a productions elsewhere and fewer opportunities to take part number of visitors and spectators every year. Kluže, most evident in the annual festival at which sufficient degree of elegance and refinement. It has managed in traditional theatre festivals, but the APT accepts that. Even visitors can enjoy contemporary achievements in, to turn the theatre into a magnificent laboratory of theatre as it is, the attention of the public and the willingness of the The first fortification was built above the deep gorge of above all, the dramatic arts, and where children too and film, in which a number of projects have been created best theatrical artists to work in this theatre are extremely the river in the 15th century and prevented come into their own. In just a few years the festival that exploit the convergence of these two media almost to high. In just over three years the theatre has premiered twelve the plundering expeditions of the Ottoman Turks has developed into a highly enjoyable event that in the full. This is joined by theoretical/educational modules in plays, all of which have touched on current social topics that into Carinthia. In 1613 a stone fortress was built. July and August attracts great attention from all who which “Socratic” schools of philosophy have formed. These have been “processed” in Novo Mesto in a completely new This met its end in 1797 when the Austrian garrison come to the Bovec area during the summer season. have been accepted with enthusiasm, particularly by young way through the use of theatrical technology. If we take just holding out against the army of the French general The well-known director Marjan Bevk, who lives in people. Given the difficulty and demanding nature of the this year’s premieres – a dramatisation of Henry James’s novel Bernadotte was defeated and the fortress was razed nearby Čezsoča, is the spirit of the event. The festival material, this is almost unbelievable. If we add to this the fact The Portrait of a Lady and Dušan Jovanović’s actorless project to the ground. In 1882 the Austrians rebuilt it in its will open this July with a concert by Jararaja and that the theatre and its activities enjoy the committed support Confessions, both of which experiment with the new technical present form. After the First World War the fortress will continue in August with six theatrical pieces. of the Municipality of Novo Mesto, and that support is also possibilities of expression provided by film, video and theatre was abandoned for a considerable period and the hand Particularly worthy of attention are Racine’s Phèdre provided by the pharmaceutical giant Krka, perhaps Slovenia’s – we can clearly see that the exploration continues. Other of time did its destructive work. Restoration began in and the poetic musical drama I too sometimes write in most successful company, we see before us the surprising interesting activities include the introduction of so-called 1987. The present state of the fortress is encouraging, jazz performed by guest artists from Italy. We should social picture of an apparently provincial town that, through soirées, evening lectures where the issue of the artistic avant- and with the renovation the fortress has gained a new also mention that from the end of May the fortress the establishment of new artistic practices, has turned on its garde has been addressed by theorists such as Dr Rastko lease of life through cultural events and exhibitions, is hosting the exhibition “Napoleon’s Eagle over the head the generally accepted view that in Slovenia social elites Močnik and Dr Lev Kreft, and, in general, the work of the which have placed it on the tourist map of Slovenia. Alps”, which in honour of the 200th anniversary of can only appear in the capital city. so-called APT Academy, which is systematically broadening Today The interesting permanent exhibition “The the Illyrian Provinces recalls the clash between the the horizons of young social sciences and theatre enthusiasts. Soldier Joined the Farmer”, subtitled “The Soča Austrian and French armies in 1797 that had such a If truth be told, this is not really surprising: over the last thirty If Podbevšek was the man with the bombs, the APT is Front” presents the countryside along the river Soča, fateful effect on the fortress itself. years, Novo Mesto has gained a generation of people in the evidently a theatre with missiles! which in the early 20th century was crisscrossed by

20 21 Ljubljana to be World Book Capital Jože Osterman The national history of Slovenia – like that of many other central European nations – is closely connected to culture and, in particular, to literature. Many consider the two greatest sons of the nation to be Primož Trubar, the writer of the first book in the Slovenian language, and the poet France Prešeren, both of whom worked in the field of literature and books. At one time the national love of books was demonstrated in purely empirical terms by positive figures in the spheres of publishing This year’s and libraries, and in the 1970s Slovenia was the world record holder in terms of both the number of newly published titles Ballet Days per inhabitant and the number of books read per inhabitant. Unfortunately these times have past and Slovenia no longer appears at the top of either of these categories. on the streets Nevertheless, a general love of literature has undoubtedly remained. Writers still enjoy great prestige and the of Ljubljana publication of a good book often attracts not inconsiderable attention from the media. For this reason all Slovenians were Polona Prešeren, photo: SNG opera and ballet archives undoubtedly proud of the decision of the special UNICEF Last year’s Ballet Days at the Slovenian National Theatre Opera committee to designate Ljubljana the World Book Capital, and Ballet were a pleasant surprise for audiences and received a beginning in April 2010. Ljubljana was chosen in the face of very positive response. This event has been organised again this year stiff competition from Vienna, Lisbon, Riga, St Petersburg, for lovers of this artistic form. The main event was the premiere of Wellington and Guadalajara, all of them famous capitals of the ballet Swan Lake, the Ideal of a Romantic Ballet – This Time culture, having convinced the committee with a truly well … According to Prešeren – and where else but in Prešeren Square prepared programme. in the centre of Ljubljana. This ancient legend of the search for Ljubljana set about preparing the programme very an unrequited love, for beauty and for perfection, set to Tchai- Ljubljana Jazz Festival democratically, inviting the participation of the broadest kovsky’s famous score, has been combined with the tragic life story cross-section of cultural figures. A call for proposals was of Slovenia’s most famous poet, France Prešeren. This famous bal- is 50 years old published last autumn. This was of an informative nature let, given a modern touch and a spectacularly designed set, is full of and will be the basis for the invitation to tender for the final symbols – presented on a stage set in Prešeren Square from which Polona Prešeren, photo: archive CD programme. The response was excellent, with 209 proposals the Slovenian poet gazes yearnfully towards the window of his un- Ljubljana Jazz Festival will take place at several Guus Janssen. The festival’s finale will be provided submitted. An organising committee was appointed, including requited love, Julija Primic. The ballet features some of Slovenia’s venues throughout the city at the end of June: by John Zorn, one of the greatest musicians and representatives of the book industry and book associations, finest dancers, including Bojana Nenadović Otrin, Rita Pollacchi, Križanke, Klub CD and the outdoor Gala Hala composers of the last 30 years, who is appearing at experts, public institutions, the Ministry of Culture and the Ana Klašnja, Regina Križaj, Sanja Nešković Peršin, Lukas Zuschlag Summer Stage at Metelkova. This year the festival Ljubljana Jazz Festival for the first time. Zorn will Slovenian Book Agency. The patronage of the project was and Peter Đorčevski, as well as a number of foreign ballet stars celebrates its 50th birthday. Alongside the concerts take this opportunity to prepare a special three- assumed by the President of the Republic, Dr Danilo Türk. – Tomislav Petranović, soloist with the Portuguese National Ballet, are numerous accompanying events to enrich the part festival evening in Križanke. In addition to The main elements of the programme have already been and Alen Bottaini, principal dancer with the Bavarian State Ballet. festival experience. Visitors will be able to see an numerous musicians – from 19 countries and all designed. A new fortnightly cultural publication, projects A roundtable discussion on issues relating to what ballet dancers exhibition of jazz photographs and posters from continents, with the exception of Australia – there designed to spread reading culture and raise awareness of the can do after their active careers come to an end also took place as previous years, as well as film showings with a jazz will also be presentations by record companies. importance of books, a world conference on the theme of part of the 2nd Ballet Days. The interesting promenade exhibition theme. Klub CD will serve as the festival cafe, The festival will present a rich variety of events for the book as a pillar of human development, a literary festival of photographs entitled ‘Elegance in Movement’ at Cankarjeva Uli- where musicians, journalists, guests and visitors the early summer days and nights. featuring authors from every continent, and the new Trubar ca also attracted a great deal of attention. These black-and-white will be able to mingle and chat. More information on the festival programme: House of Literature: all very promising projects. Through photographs, which present the unique story of the perfection and The festival starts with an exhibition by Han www.ljubljanajazz.si them, Ljubljana will also gain a number of permanent wave-like intertwining of bodies in the movement of dancers and Bennink and a concert by Han Bennink and elements that in the future will become a strong support for Arab horses, have adorned the displays of some of the more inter- books and readers. esting bars, offices and shops in the town.

22 23 ‘Our rights’ Miha Štrukelj’s Directions – at the Council of Europe ‘Interference in the Sky above in Strasbourg Process’ at the Ljubljana Alenka Ivančič, photo: Tina Ramujkić Biennale di Venezia Text and photo: Barbara Jakše jeršič Between 22 June and 16 July, Slovenia presented itself for the second time Andrej Savelli, photo: personal archives From 23 June to 19 July Cankarjev Dom will be hosting an exhibi- during its six-month Presidency of the Miha Štrukelj is exhibiting his project ‘x=0/y=0 Interference in Process’ at tion of photographs by Stane Jeršič and Barbara Jakše. Involved in Committee of Ministers of the Council of the Biennale di Venezia, one of the world’s most important contemporary art photography since 1989, their reputation both in Slovenia and inter- Europe at the headquarters of the Council events. nationally has been consolidated by solo exhibitions at the Stedelijk of Europe in Strasbourg. This time with an Museum Schiedam in Rotterdam, the Melkweg Centre in Amster- exhibition entitled ‘Our Rights’, devoted The project is conceived as a total artwork based on four thematic and formal dam, Fotogalerie Wien in Vienna, the Prinz Gallery in Kyoto, the to children’s rights, in line with the levels: a painting, a wall drawing, a drawing and a Lego picture. The exhibition Photofusion Photography Centre in London, the Lodz Art Centre, Slovenian Presidency’s priority task. The is a summation of Štrukelj’s concept of the painting process, which is based on the Museum of Modern Art and the City Art Museum in Ljubljana, exhibition of illustrations on children’s a deconstruction of the pictorial surface with the aid of a grid that serves as a and elsewhere. Their photographs have also been sold to public and rights, as interpreted by Matjaž Schmidt, structural and conceptual basis within which the painting is deconstructed and private collections, among them the world’s largest collection of is supplemented with photographs of reconstituted as a form of disillusioned subjective gaze. Thematically, Štrukelj’s prints and photographs at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. In selected artworks by children from the art painting originates from a fascination with images as manipulated by the me- 2004 they presented their book-and-exhibition project Identity of workshop on the topic of children’s rights. dia, and expands to take in the iconography of anonymous urban topography Space at the City Art Museum Ljubljana and the book reached the This took place on 4 June at the premises and the isolated, silent presence of the human form within it. This approach final selection at the Rencontres d’Arles photography festival. of the Art Centre for Children and Young is reflected throughout the series of works on show, with the exception of the In their new photographic project, Directions between worlds can People at Pionirski Dom Centre for Youth Lego picture, where the artist has chosen a natural landscape as the basic motif stand for combination or alienation. Small or big is merely a matter Culture in Ljubljana. Children that attend – a rarity in his work. or perception and, lost in the images we see, we seek the true direc- the Pionirski Dom Art Centre and children tion. The Directions series of photographs combines double images from the Tone Čufar Primary School According to Štrukelj, the theme of this year’s Biennale, ‘Making Worlds’, is shot at an oblique angle. On one side is a tract of landscape or urban in Ljubljana took part in workshops. In closely connected with the work he has been developing in recent years. He area; on the other, a detail found in it. In both photographs, the addition to presenting children’s rights therefore merely had to make a few adjustments in order to install it in the gal- selected larger area or small detail is in focus while the surround- as seen by adults through the eyes of an lery which will serve as the Slovenian Pavilion for the period of the Biennale. ing area remains blurred. The pairs of photographs talk about the artist, the exhibition also aimed to present microcosm within the macrocosm, about the little elements that the children’s rights as understood and Slovenia has another representative at the Biennale di Venezia: Marjetica Potrč, eye, and with it the camera, seeks in the wholeness of the selected interpreted by children themselves. who was invited by the Biennale curator Daniel Birnbaum, to present her se- area, about details, in which, to paraphrase Aby Warburg, we find The exhibition was opened by Slovenian lected drawings from the period 2005-2008 at the main exhibition in the Arse- God or the Devil. foreign minister Samuel Žbogar. nale. This is already her fourth appearance at the Biennale.

24 25 Our excellence Tadej Golob, photo: Rafael Marn/ Ad Pirum Young creatives gather at the Magdalena festival Andrej Savelli Young creatives under the age of 30 from all around the world, who had entered their work in 11 competition categories, gathered at the 11th Magdalena Interna- 11. Mednarodni festival kreativne komunikacije | 21. do 23. maj 2009 | Maribor, Slovenija tional Festival of Creative Communica- 11th International Festival of Creative Communication | May 21 - 23, 2009 | Maribor, Slovenia tion in Maribor from 21 and 23 May. There were 393 entries from 12 countries this year, with the highest number coming from Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia-Her- zegovina. For the period of the festival, Maribor became a centre of modern art and creativity, with numerous exhibitions, Wine workshops, lectures and evening events taking place around the city. The festival started in 1999 as a critique of from and alternative to those advertising festi- vals that were not open to young creatives. Today, the profession, as well as the media at home and abroad, regard Magdalena as the being among the most important events of its type in Europe. The festival is in- tended to present, reward and promote We love you, original ideas and creative solutions from earth young people in various areas of commu- nication. It aims to attract as many young yes! We sat in the shade in the stone creatives from all over the world to attend courtyard in front of a small lectures and take part in workshops given family restaurant with a wonderful by world-renowned professionals. At the view of vineyards all around. I same time, it offers an opportunity for decided to hazard a guess, saying: studios, agencies and other companies, as ‘It’s probably a bit quiet at the well as individuals working in the field of moment, what with there being communications, to identify special tal- not much work to do with the ent and find potential new collaborators vines.’ I guessed wrong. ‘Where among the festival participants. you talking about?’ smiled Jean Michel, creator of wines from the Top prize at this year’s festival went to tourist farm of Kabaj. ‘Right now, Serbian designer Ajna Zatrić. She received this is basically the busiest time. the ‘Magdalena’ award for her ‘Urban cal- The vines are being prepared for endar for the city of Sarajevo’ project. The the next year, which is why we professional jury, chaired by leading Brit- only have a few cherry trees, which ish designer Ian Willingham, also gave a the guests can pick from. We just further 11 ‘Golden Bra’ awards. don’t have time for them.’

26 27 Our excellence Above Nova Gorica, north of the town in France, travelled all over the world with Laški Rizling,’ explains Jean Michel. ‘But which lies on the border between Slovenia his father, who was an architect, trained both Rebula and Laški Rizling are great and Italy, rises the 609-metre-high eleva- as a sommelier, worked at large farms and varieties, suitable for mixing as well as tion of Sabotin. Below it one can see, even vineyards, and got an offer from Califor- for stand-alone drinking. The same thing from a long way off, the stone inscription nia, where they had just started to grow happened to Malvasia, which is not in- ‘Tito’. The locals say that Sabotin is full of their own wine in large quantities and digenous to Brda but is a fine variety and poisonous vipers, some of which are so old needed professionals, but Jean chose near- one that we will help to preserve. We will they have grown legs. Along the southern by Italy instead. ‘So I still haven’t been to no longer make Chardonnay, which is a side of Sabotin, below the snakes and the America,’ says the 43-year-old, adding fine variety but can be found all over the monument to the Marshal, runs the fast- with a characteristic, (although in his case world. When I go to a Slovenian restau- est route to the most westerly part of Slo- adopted) Brda stubbornness and pride: rant, I certainly won’t order Chardonnay, venia, which from the hills has a view of ‘And I don’t know if I’ll ever go. Let them which I would do in Burgundy, where the Po Valley. The contrast could not be come here, if they want something from it originates from. Foreigners who come greater. The road is still enclosed by high me.’ here do the same. They seek out Rebula, wire fencing, designed to prevent ‘tour- Teran, things that no longer exist.’ ists’ from Eastern Europe from deserting And if they’re looking for things that no to the ‘other side’, and the landscape that Kabaj Morel longer exist, as well as things that cannot opens up when the fencing ends is magi- be found anywhere else, Kabaj farm is the cal. Hill after hill, vineyard after vineyard, brandname. right place. cherry trees and peach trees … But before he began, with his wife and a small team, to grow his own wine, which The wine We are in is today marketed under the Kabaj Morel brandname, Jean Michel had to decide be- develops on Goriška Brda, tween two homelands. ‘In France I could have taken over the running of a farm its own in the with Dobrovo which had no heirs, but my wife didn’t want to, so we stayed here.’ They got hold kvevrer. as its centre. of a cement mixer and began building. The mixer and a pile of sand are still there. Jean Michel and his team make wine in It is a tiny village and contains only the ‘If a mixer enters the house, you’ll never kvevrers, which are large clay vessels bur- bare essentials – a shop, post office, fire get rid of it,’ he says. ied in the earth. station, church and cemetery, as well as a They already had a few vines, as well as There are only 25 similar producers in the large wine cellar to which the surrounding a fair amount of fruit, from which Brda world and they are now starting their own farms and cooperatives take their grapes, used to make a living. Now, as fruit arrives association, which will keep an eye on the which the experts then turn into wine. in Slovenia from everywhere and at ridicu- quality and authenticity of this method of Until 1993 they included husband and lous prices – prices at which Brda simply winemaking. wife Jean Michel and Katja Morel from cannot produce – it is no longer done. A kvevrer can hold between 1,500 and the nearby hamlet of scattered houses ‘Same thing with wine,’ says Jean Michel. 4,000 litres. Whole grapes are placed in the that goes by the name of Šlovrenc. At that ‘They say: “Your wine is expensive”. Yes, vessels. They then burst during fermenta- time they only produced between 500 and it is, but it can’t be made any cheaper. tion, creating an emulsion. This emulsion 1,000 litres of wine, for their own needs. There is no ‘hyper-production’ here. We lies in the barrel for a year, without being In 1993, on their homestead at Kabaj, on don’t harvest wine using machines. We touched by anyone. Sulphur (a minimum the farm owned by Katja’s parents, they tackle every vine by hand. The vines have amount) is not added to the wine until it created a small cellar. And although they to be cleared and cared for. The yield is is poured from kvevrer to bottle. have continued to expand it, it is already very small – perhaps a few kilos per vine, Wine made this way has a basic taste. ‘It too small. even less.’ goes from the vineyard back to the earth,’ is ‘If we hadn’t decided to do it when we did,’ The dominant varieties now are domes- Jean Michel’s colourful description. ‘From explained ‘Žan’, as the locals round there tic, indigenous and old Brda varieties. earth to the earth. With natural fermenta- call him, ‘who knows whether it would Tokaj, which can no longer be marketed tion, its own bacteria, its own fungi. The have been done at all. We wouldn’t decide under that name since it has been regis- wine develops on its own in the kvevrer. to do it now. When you’re still young and tered and protected by Hungary, and is You really have to be careful here, select- stupid, that’s when you do it.’ now called Sauvignon in Brda, as well as ing the grapes, which must be healthy and Jean Michel is not a Slovenian name, al- Rebula, whose reputation first had to be ripe, carefully ... This takes quite a bit of though its owner is (at least partly) Slove- rehabilitated. In the past this was a sorely work, but the wine is so much better for nian. He was born in Paris to a Slovenian abused grape variety, producing wine that it.’ father and a French mother, was educated gave you a headache. ‘It was the same with Not all the grapes from the Kabaj farm’s

28 29 Our excellence Our excellence 12 hectares go into the clay vessels – only year and ordering me what wine to make. in Ljubljana by midday.’ At midday, Jean grapes from the high-lying and oldest vine- On that day I’d hammer two nails into the Michel, who loves cooking and cooks bril- yards. This year they have produced wines door of the cellar, close it, seal it tight and liantly, something which the guests who from 65-year-old Tokaj and Rebula vines. never open it again.’ stop or spend the night there soon dis- ‘These vines are so old, but we haven’t got I arrived at the Kabaj farm with a pho- cover, sliced some ham and poured a fresh rid of them, even though some of the vines tographer at nine in the morning. ‘We’ll glass of wine. If a vine can wait, I thought, are missing. It makes you smile in the cel- finish at ten,’ I predicted, ‘and be back so can an editor. lar because the wine makes itself from the vines.’ Grapes from younger vines go into 225-litres oak barrels. Jean Michel searched for his kvevrers in Georgia. He travels there regularly and is thrilled with the country. The journey by road to Istanbul and from there by boat to takes three weeks, but even the gentle pace was no guarantee that all the items would arrive at Brda in one piece. In the first consignment, five of the fourteen vessels were broken. They are now waiting for a new consignment of twelve large and twenty smaller 200-litre kvevrers. Ana Mrzlikar, photo: archive Most of the wine is still being bought up by Slovenians, and primarily by restau- rants familiar with the product. It can also be bought in Bordeaux, in the heart of Burgundy, at a restaurant at which the world’s leading winemakers gather at least sole manufacturer once a year. ‘They love us there,’ says Jean, destroying the myth of the arrogant and self-absorbed Frenchman, ‘because we of- of LPG equipment fer something different.’ in Slovenia ‘I’d like to see At the 29th PODIM international busi- and the best possible functioning of the capital injection and was formally regis- Gness conference in Maribor-1 at the end engine with regulation of LPG injection tered. A production facility was construct- more people of March, the G-1 company from Celje taking place in real time. It is precisely this ed and certificates R67-01 and R110-01Z came first in the competition category for type of injection regulation that we have were successfully acquired, these being making wine start-up companies. They were presented patented.” necessary for sales abroad. The company with an award for the technology built has gradually built up an international the way we into the vehicle, which they developed Systems for conversion to LPG have been sales network. A successful presentation of alone and also patented. The system is in use since the middle of the previous the company at the international LPG fair do.’ the only one in the world that allows the century and technology has since made in Istanbul has also been carried out. regulation of the injection of LPG in real enormous progress, which means that ‘Not by forcing them to do it that way but time, enabling the most efficient combus- nowadays almost all engines can be con- by convincing them to do so because it’s tion, and the highest quality installation verted to run on LPG. This is where G-1, worth it. If someone bought a kvevrer and with a seven-year guarantee. The patented which was founded in 2006, has found a LPG: cheaper didn’t know the first thing about how to system brings about improvements both market niche. It was in 2006 that a group start making wine, they’d dig such a hole in the functioning of the system and with of experts in LPG, auto-electrics, and al- and greener for themselves that they’d never be able to ease of installation. ternative energy sources joined forces to get out of. It’s all about love of wine, not form a team to develop their own system fuel about turning a profit. For me it’s also the Simon Štrancar, director and co- to overcome the shortcomings of compet- The cost of LPG (Liquefied petroleum gas) wine I make, the most important part of founder of G-1 d.o.o.: “LPG technol- ing systems. in Slovenia is currently less than 50% of my life, but I first have to be satisfied with ogy has actually been in use for a very long the price of 95 octane unleaded petrol. G- it myself. I can’t imagine someone com- time. We have changed the way the regu- The team tested the system extensively on 1 has calculated that a driver can recover ing up to me and saying that they’d done lation of LPG injection is viewed and have different vehicles and all tests confirmed the cost of an LPG investment in less than some research and found that this or that developed an innovative way to regulate the flawless functioning of the basic con- 30,000 km, even without bearing in mind would be the flavour of the market this injection, which means easier installation cept. In 2008, the company was given a the resulting added value of the vehicle.

30 31 Our excellence slovenian delights

depending on the number of cylinders. All G-1: The key advantages of this equipment for running vehicles on LPG are reliability and solid workmanship, savings realised during use, simplicity of installation and later maintenance. material is equipped with safety certificates in compliance with EU regulations. Instal- lation is carried out by mechanics certified by the manufacturer who have undergone Polona Prešeren, photo: Tomo Jeseničnik specialised training to attain proficiency in installing and servicing this technology. LPG as an alternative fuel for personal and goods vehicles has many advantages. These are being successfully enjoyed by millions ri of drivers all over Europe, but especially in Go ška the Netherlands, Germany and Italy. ic Br Simon Štrancar: g “Some people only see d the saving they will make, while others a have broader awareness and also think of a causing less pollution. But considering that M old vehicles that are converted to run on gas can be sold for considerably more and are easier to sell, the saving is considerably greater than it first appears. The cost of the equipment is soon covered and the system is also more attractive for people that are not on the road that often.” What next? Simon Štrancar: “Our company’s busi- ness plan is extremely important for the building up of the company. It allows us to carry out analysis and to find out where we are sticking to plans, where we must make Ecologically minded users are also increas- engines, there would be an outcry. LPG is changes, and where we are running late. It ingly favouring LPG because liquid petro- currently the only technology that allows a also spurs us on to develop new technolo- leum gas is energy efficient and is an -en realistic decrease in emissions of all harmful gies, although we are a little late in enter- vironmentally friendly form of energy. As gases, including CO2. We can use it im- ing the foreign market. We are currently LPG use decreases emissions of harmful mediately and in future can develop other already in the testing phase of developing gases into the environment, it is considered technologies in parallel. Electric power is a diesel system, and also developing other to be a green fuel. Studies have shown that unfortunately not yet a solution. In Eu- components and new technologies for the in converting a modern vehicle to LPG, rope, only 16% of electricity is produced use of alternative fuels.” greenhouse gas emissions are decreased, as from renewable resources, and in the US are other harmful emissions. In LPG com- this figure is 8.8%. And nobody asks about The Slovenia-wide competition for start- bustion, emissions of harmful substances the recycling of batteries after they have up companies is organised by the “Tovarna are up to 50% lower than in traditional come to the end of their service life.” podjemov” together with its main partners, petrol engines, and this means they are also the Public Agency of the Republic of Slo- well below the limits of the strictest EU venia for Entrepreneurship and Foreign In- regulations governing exhaust gases. vestments (JAPTI) and the Ministry of the Products and Economy. It is a step up from regional busi- Simon Štrancar: “We hope that in future ness competitions, which are organised by more attention will be paid to the harmful- services various technological parks, “incubators” or ness of particulate matter (PM) and other The company manufactures kits for con- regional business centres. The expert com- toxic exhausts – not just CO2 emissions. verting vehicles to run on LPG. Profession- mission was impressed by how seriously the The latter is also important but real prob- al installation in the vehicle is carried out work was begun and the potential shown lems are unfortunately sidelined. If people by certified mechanics all over Slovenia and by the highly professional team of founders were more aware of the toxicity of diesel the rest of the world. LPG systems differ and partners of G-1.

32 33 A winding road, running partly through Italian territory, leads and sandstone, is ideal for vines, which have grown in Brda since Gnocchi with sausage toč to Goriška Brda, the far south-western corner of Slovenia. This is Ancient Roman times. Brda is home to autochthonous grapes such Delicious Fruits Ingredients: where the fabulous Goriška Brda awaits us: a little piece of land as Ribolla, and the special microclimatic conditions give a particu- Fruit growing has a strong tradition in Brda. The industrious hands 3 tbsp (olive) oil squeezed against the border with Italy and bounded by the Soča, lar nobility to Sauvignon, Pinot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, of the inhabitants and the favourable weather conditions ensure 1 sausage but with great wines. The gentle Brda hills with their farmhouses the mainstays of the area’s wine production. good harvests of cherries, peaches, apricots, olives and figs. Fruit 1 onion and their slopes planted with vineyards and orchards give you the growing helped the people of Brda survive the difficult times after salt and pepper impression that you have arrived in another world, almost like The wines of Goriška Brda are becoming a fixture on the wine lists the Second World War, when the new national border also repre- 1 tbsp flour something from a fairy tale. Goriška Brda is about halfway be- of the finest restaurants in London, New York, Paris and Berlin and sented an important geographical demarcation and, as it were, cut water tween Ljubljana and Venice. do extremely well on the international wine market. Notable labels Brda off from the world. The roads that led from Goriška Brda to 50 ml wine include Movia, Marjan Simčič, Ščurek, Edi Simčič and Klinec. the markets where they sold their produce were interrupted. As This little piece of Slovenia truly is something special. At every sea- The last of these organises an annual festival of wine in poetry in a result, many people switched from winemaking to fruit grow- Cut the sausage into pieces. son of the year it offers something unique and intoxicating. Most Medana in the last week of August. The winemakers of Brda know ing and transported their fruit by bicycle to the railway station Fry the onion in the oil until golden, add visitors fall in love with it at first sight. Even the climate in Brda is how important it is to create a wine with an international style and and then on to Ljubljana by train. When times improved, they the flour and the pieces of sausage. Stir a special, shielded so carefully in the north by Mount Sabotin, while prove to wine lovers that they can rely on them. They also believe returned to winemaking, which today emphatically occupies first little and add the wine. When the wine the gentle hills gradually descend towards the Friulian Plain. The that a wine must show all the characteristics of its environment. place once again. has boiled off, add water. Brda hills are home to six thousand inhabitants. On clear days the The toč must cook for at least 30 minutes. Dolomites, the Alps, the peaks of the Kanin range, the Friulian Serve with gnocchi. lowlands, the Piran headland and the sea are all visible from Brda. Movia Cherries In spring Brda is filled with fruit blossoms. Summer is the time of Movia is a house with a long and successful tradition. Today it is In this season everything in Brda revolves around cherries. These succulent fruits. Autumn is a feast of colour. In winter, Brda and its headed by Aleš Kristančič. The Kristančič family have been pro- delicious little fruit even have their own festival in Brda. The Cher- inhabitants rest. That is the time for a drop of wine. ducing premium wines on this estate since 1820. Today Movia ry Festival is the area’s biggest and most successful cultural/tourism makes some of the world’s finest wines and the Movia name is pres- event, and every year attracts over 30,000 visitors from all over ent all over the world. The wines are sold under two labels: Movia, Slovenia, Italy and Austria. The Cherry Festival means more than for wines produced from mature vineyards, and Vila Marija for just the hedonistic enjoyment of delicious cherries: it also includes wines made with grapes from young vines. Aleš Kristančič believes traditional elements of local culture, cultural events, entertainment it is right to be bold: “I am not a winemaker who believes that and commercial activities. what we had centuries ago was better than what we have today. People develop and you have to use your head for your own de- velopment.” Brda cuisine The cuisine of Brda is very diverse. Goriška Brda faces the on one side and the and the Dolomites on the oth- Vina Simčič er. As a result, the cuisine of Goriška Brda incorporates ingredients The Simčič vineyards lie on both the Slovenian and Italian sides of typical of the cuisine of the Primorska (Littoral) region and the Brda (called Collio on the Italian side). The Simčič family believe Mediterranean: herbs, plenty of vegetables, olive oil, prosciutto, in their wine and produce it exclusively from the fruit of their own vegetable soups and minestrones. The most notable influence of vineyards. They are committed to growing and processing grapes in mountain cuisine, meanwhile, is polenta. This means that your the most environmentally friendly manner possible. Every decision plate, or tondo, to use the local name, will be filled with dishes in vineyard and cellar is the result of careful thought: nothing is such as fish with white polenta and toč, a special kind of gou- automatic. You will find their wines in some of the best restaurants lash served with prosciutto (a version made with beans is also very The largest settlement and centre of Brda is Dobrova, where the in Europe. They are particularly popular in the United Kingdom, popular). Toč or točanje is a dish into which bread or polenta is cellars of the Renaissance castle conceal a well-stocked vinoteka Scandinavia, Italy and the United States. dipped. Frtaja is also very popular. This is a kind of omelette pre- or wine shop. A place where visitors can fortify themselves with pared with local Brda herbs or with sausage. All these dishes must cheese and cured meats and invigorate their soul with Brda’s fin- of course be accompanied by a glass of good Brda wine. est wines. The friendly locals offer visitors a warm welcome at any time of year. The wine here truly is a “precious drop” and the food Soak the bread in the stock in which an Easter is simple and excellent. It is hard to say which is more intoxicating: Fuje ham or other piece of meat has previously been the wine or the food. Both are wonderful. Ingredients: 500 g stale white bread boiled. Drain and squeeze the soaked bread. 100 g sugar Cut the bacon into small pieces and fry it. Chop Everything revolves 150 g raisins the onion and fry in the bacon fat. Add the grated lemon or orange peel soaked bread and mix all the ingredients well. 1 sachet vanilla sugar Make thumb-sized rolls from the mixture, roll around wine them in flour and boil in the stock in which the Winemaking is Brda’s greatest tradition, since the climatic condi- 1 egg ham was cooked. When they float to the surface, tions here are ideal for growing vines. The low Brda hills are open 50–100 g bacon fish them out with a slotted spoon, arrange on towards the Friulian Plain, which brings the warm sea air, and are green onion slices a plate and serve with boiled ham or boiled protected from the effects of the colder mountain climate by the shoulder of pork. Julian Alps and the Trnovo Plateau. The soil, too, a mix of marl

34 35 slovenian delights 38,000 kilometres and speechless

Pištunj (Puréed Potato Dish) Ingredients: 500 g potatoes 500 g string beans 500 g courgettes 100 g bacon or crackling

Peel potatoes, wash, dice and boil. Cook string beans until soft. Peel courgettes, dice and boil until soft. Text and photo: Metod Močnik Mix all ingredients together and mix well. Season this purée-like mixture with At the beginning of June, elections to the European Liquigas and Ag2r, and they all had their big moment in the main cracklings or fried bacon. Parliament were held. A total of 375 million Europeans role, like Tadej Valjavec. Or in the supporting role of assistants, like elected 736 members to the parliament in Brussels. Jani Brajkovič alongside the most famous cyclist of our time, Lance Slovenia has seven MEPs. There are two million of us. We Armstrong. Lance has yet to cycle a single kilometre in Slovenia. inhabit 20,000 square kilometres. Half of this is forest. But he knows he was close. The second stage of the Giro d’Italia According to official statistics, in 2005 the public road heads to Trieste, finishing just a few kilometres from the border. Yellow or white polenta network in Slovenia covered 38,425.1 kilometres, of which 1 l water national roads extended 6,393.1 kilometres and municipal roads covered 32,032.0 kilometres. We also have a little The road as a shrine 400 g yellow or white corn flour Tadej Valjavec saw the Giro through to the end in the kind of over 660 kilometres of motorways. This is so you know 1 tbsp olive oil outstanding company that is regarded as holy among cyclists. The who we are, where we live and where we (don’t) go. By salt kind of cycling saints, of course, who do not yet have wayside bike. We have everything the big folks have. chapels built in their name. But they do have their own roads. Pour a tablespoon of olive oil salted For Tadej Valjavec the nicest stretch for cycling runs from his boiling water (alternatively, use butter) home village of pri Kranju, and through the hamlet of Reduce the heat; add (yellow or white) Quartet of professionals Jamnik, which is famed for having one of the best viewing points corn flour and stir continuously. in Gorenjska, at the Church of Sts. Primož and Felicijan. The road Cook the polenta for 30 minutes, stirring racing for pink continues to the heroic Dražgoše pod Jelovico, down to Železniki, continuously. If it gets too thick, add In the month of May, there could have been no cycling enthusiast up through Sorica, a village on the sunny side of the Alps on the some milk or warm water. following one of the three biggest three-week stage races in the Soriška plateau, and down to Bohinj, the Alpine jewel with its When it is done, spoon onto a wooden world, the Italian Giro d’Italia, who missed the Slovenian cyclists. crystal lake. From there Tadej turns towards Pokljuka, where he tray and cut with a string Tadej Valjavec, Jani Brajkovič, Jure Golčer and Gorazd Štangelj has used his savings to fix up the magnificent tourist facility called Slices of cold polenta can be fried in were in fact the 11th biggest team in terms of national affiliation. Villa . From there to Bled, which embodies the concept of fat, olive oil, butter, minced lard or For a country with two million total population we are especially Slovenian tourism, and then back home is not far. This cycling prosciutto fat. proud that here too, it seems that Slovenia is a big cycling country. route could actually be named after Tadej Valjavec. This would be This quartet had its job to do in the big teams of Astana, LPR, a fine monument to him.

36 37 girl is the world champion in Olympic cross-country cycling Vršič among the juniors. She won the rainbow jersey, emblem of the Statistics In Slovenia the roads wind from the sea to high mountain peaks. best in the world, in the youth section. Last year she repeated this We know that these events are the biggest promotion for both From zero to over 2,000 metres. This provided the subtext for this among the juniors. Slovenia in fact boasts a handful of girls who tourism and sport. This goes practically hand in hand. We know year’s race around Slovenia (Po Sloveniji), the country’s biggest are among the best in the world at this Olympic discipline. Blaža that for Italian cycling enthusiasts there is no better invitation stage race, featuring riders from the Pro Tour class. Virtually every Klemenčič rode in the Olympic Games last year. Nina Homovec than the one during the media-notorious Giro that attracted the year the course runs over Slovenia’s most famous mountain pass is now among the ten best in the world championship races. All Slovenian quartet of professional cyclists. Probably nowhere else of Vršič (1,611 m). It was built by Russian prisoners during the three of them come from idyllic villages. Places where they have a in the world apart from Slovenia is there such a high probability First World War. In engineering terms this road in the Alps is a wide variety of possibilities with all kinds of cycling terrain right at that the recreational cyclist will encounter a top professional veritable masterpiece, and for cyclists it has views to match. On their doorstep. These are the roads and trails that are not included cyclist on the road. In terms of the number of kilometres of road the first Saturday of September every year the road from Kranjska in the earlier statistics. and the quality of the top cyclists, both mountain and road, gora to Vršič has been tested for over 30 years now by more than this theory can also be statistically proven. Let yourself go on 1,000 recreational cyclists. The 12 kilometre ascent, climbing Slovenia’s roads and trails. There are days when for hours on end 800 metres, is a well-known Slovenian cycling challenge, and the Masters of gravitation you will hear nothing but the chirping of birds. And you might quickest riders do it in 33 minutes. But anyone taking an hour or In Slovenia quite a few winter sports centres boast infrastructure sulk a little if you encounter any driver who wants to be Michael Schumacher. Slovenia has not yet had any drivers in Formula 1. more still gets congratulated. Out of respect for all cyclists, Tadej for mountain bikers who are sworn adherents to the gravity-related Valjavec will not say what his best time is on this road of Alpine Well, that is a joke with a hint of truth. adrenalin rush. In June, Slovenia was in fact the destination in explorer Kugy. Unofficially, however, he is reported to have clocked Europe most besieged by mountain bikers of this kind. On the in at less than 29 minutes. (* The Minister of Transport advises: Do European map, idyllic Kranjska gora was most heavily surrounded not try to beat this time in the opposite direction) by downhillers. In the middle of June it hosted the European Slavko and the downhill championship, a test of daring, skill and speed. Ajdovščina, cyclists know, and are Rainbow girl the little town in the wine-growing Primorska region, hosted the But that is just one of the roads in the Alps. Twelve kilometres on European championship in 4Xcross-country. Meanwhile Maribor, speechless the clock. And in Slovenia, as we have found out, there is just one with its nearby Pohorje range, is a traditional host of world cup cyclist deliberately attempting to ride every road in the country. races in these two mountain biking disciplines. Riders tear down In Slovenia you won’t be bored on the social front, either. On Every single one. Slovenia is a country of wide and narrow roads, into the valley on the very slopes where in winter, skiers battle it a mass scale. The Franja Marathon is the biggest mass cycling paved highways or muddy MTB tracks. Some of these tracks are out for the Golden Fox prize, while in summer the odd fox, with event in Slovenia. Well, the most talked-about. More than 5,000 even quite famous. The beautifully idyllic village of Ledine, high real fur, might wander across the downhill trail. In Slovenia we participants saddle up for it. Franja is a symbol of humanity up between Idrija and Žiri, is the home of Tanja Žakelj. This young really do have everything the big folks have. during the Second World War. But ‘Franja’ is far from being the only one. The Alps Marathon in Kamnik and then along idyllic Alpine roads around the Alps. A full circle through neighbouring Carinthia. Then there is the Juriš na Vršič (Rush to Vršič) from Kranjska gora, the Poli Marathon in Ptuj, our oldest city, and the Marathon around Pohorje. The calendar of the Cycling Association of Slovenia (Kolesarska zveza Slovenije), which is headed by a woman, Milena Černilogar Radež, includes more than 150 events. There is practically no event without participants from the areas beyond Trieste and Tarvisio in Italy or Klagenfurt in Austria. Perhaps the invitations are also helped . The attractions for cyclists can also be put into the words expressed a while ago in respect of the wonderful region of Gorenjska by the Slovenian ambassador or popular folk music, Slavko Avsenik, the man who shaped the Avseniki group: “It is not hard to describe the beauty of this land. Whoever sees it will be speechless.”

38 39 people Dr. Bojana Žvan, chair of the Clinical Department for Vascular Jana magazine campaign enthusiastically Neurology and Intensive Neurological Therapy at the Ljubljana and the support from the pharmaceutical company Krka. It enables women to show University Clinical Centre was this year selected from among their scientific minds and to work properly 10 nominated women scientists by readers of the magazine in their fields. Jana as the WOMAN SCIENTIST OF THE YEAR. She studies cerebral and vascular diseases, one of the more prominent Is it hard to be a woman scientist health, medical and social problems of today. nowadays? I think that nowadays more and more wom- You were chosen as woman scientist plasty with the installing of a stent brought en are scientists. One reason for this is cer- of the year by readers voting. What in from abroad; in fact in 2001, in Houston tainly that men have become less traditional do you think persuaded them to vote in the USA I took part in the implementa- and more understanding, and are enabling for you? tion and organisation of this new method, their partners to be scientists. Neverthe- There are essential criteria for the nomina- which involves dilation of the neck veins by less it is difficult because at the same time tion, and I found myself among very strong installing vein stents in patients who have women have families, and usually keep the competition. There were scientists in the already suffered a minor stroke or transient home functioning, and it is a fact that they running who have spent their lives exclu- ischaemic attack (TIA), and in those who are involved in household work… In addi- sively in this field. In the expert selection we, have not yet suffered one. For the latter it tion to my regular work there is also a duty the candidates, had absolutely no influence is purely preventive. At the same time a col- roster, the need to write, read and learn, to on the selection, except of course through league – an intervention neuroradiologist – prepare lectures, give interviews like this one our past work. As for the final result, I was went to study the technical implementation …(laughs). Occasionally this is arduous, and probably helped here by the fact that I am of this new method abroad, so that in 2002 a woman who opts for it must be sufficiently deeply committed to preventive care for in Slovenia we also started treating people tough and sufficiently persevering. cerebrovascular diseases, and I am also work- at risk of stroke through carotid angioplasty I believe that there are many more intelli- ing in that direction. I appear a great deal with the insertion of a vascular stent. We gent women in the world, but many have in the media, I convince people and inform have gradually become highly successful, so not succeeded in focusing their brain power them about prevention, about how urgent that today we can boast excellent results that in such a way as to establish or fulfil them- it is, how quickly we need to react in order compare with the best centres of this kind selves, or rather not all of them face the same to treat an ischaemic stroke with thromboly- in the world. Other research relates to ul- criteria or conditions. In short, when you sis, I make people aware of new methods of trasound diagnosis of the veins in the neck decide on this, you have to persevere, open treatment and how important surgical in- and regression of fatty deposits within them your mind to ideas from colleagues, and you tervention is, where we can enlarge the vein with treatment using certain medications, have to have a good team that works for each and insert a stent, as in the heart. In this way and another project deals with investigating other. I can boast that our team is small but Woman Scientist of the Year I am expanding knowledge about early di- cerebral function before and after insertion good. agnosis and treatment of patients at risk. I of a stent. We are researching to what degree am a fighter, and my motto is that for any cerebral function is impaired after constric- Your favourite quote, with which you patient who has had a previous ischaemic at- tion by 90% or more of the main vein in the also began your speech of thanks at tack, meaning all the signs of a stroke, which neck, which supplies 2/3 of the brain and the post-selection event, is: “The pass in less than 24 hours – this is a warn- how cerebral function improves after inser- broader the mind, the more it suffers Dr. Bojana Žvan ing stroke – we should diagnose that patient tion of the stent … of course there is consid- because of its boundaries” (Edmond within 24 hours and offer them appropriate erable research work still to do. Thiaudiere). What does this quote tell treatment. you? “You have to focus on ideas you can finish” The people who voted for me also probably What does it mean personally for you It tells me about everything that in fact sur- Ana Mrzlikar, photo: Mateja Jordovič Potočnik know me from my other field of work, in to be “woman scientist of the year”? rounds scientific work. The point is, we can migraines. I also speak a great deal about New impetus and recognition for your have a great many ideas, we might want to this, I appear in public, I raise people’s past work? realise a great deal, yet reality is different, so awareness about the causes and consequenc- It seems very welcome to me that someone the benefit of this is just what you can actu- es, and recognising the right diagnosis and has actually thought to notice women scien- ally realise and see through to the end. You treatment. tists, since people generally do not even con- have to focus on ideas that you can finish, sider that women could be scientists, because that lead you to something. A broad mind is What research work convinced the we are still considered to be more “tied to the important so you can use it in the possibili- committee to place you among the home”. Yet since I move in these circles, I ties that you have. ten nominees? see that a great many women are involved Unfortunately we are not America, where I treat primarily cerebrovascular diseases; one in science, and they also deserve recognition. science might bear such fruit as it does there. of the most prominent research projects was So it seems fine to me that there is a selection I am talking about the finance directed to- without doubt when we studied the effec- each year and that new names of women in wards it. In Slovenia we are very limited in tiveness of a new technique, carotid angio- science will keep appearing. I welcome the that field. Nevertheless I must say that in the

40 41 eo e CULTURAL p pl TRAILS lar neurology. We have achieved a great deal, both at home and abroad. I am talking about articles we have published in relevant maga- zines in the area of strokes and migraines. In professional terms we are truly on a par in the area of inserting vascular stents, where we have real results that compare with the best centres in Europe. In cooperation with the association of car- diologists we have also done a great deal in preventive work, in other words to reduce the factors of risk: increasing blood pressure, reducing cholesterol, reducing obesity, rais- Wine and oil making in Prlekija ing awareness to reduce smoking, to live in a healthy way, to eat properly, to exercise… Wine and pumpkin-seed oil as elixirs of life Statistics show that in Slovenia we have al- Jože Prešeren, photo: Tomo Jeseničnik, Darinka Mladenovič ready reduced the incidence of cardiovascu- lar diseases by 20%, but we are not seeing the same thing for cerebrovascular diseases. At the same time as reducing cardiovascular Every region of Slovenia has its own special features that si- tradition is continued by numerous private winemakers. Four “wine diseases, there has been an increase in peo- multaneously distinguish it from and connect it with other routes” lead tourists to the winemakers of Prlekija, inviting visitors to new Neurological Clinic at the University and I am proud to say that we exceeded the ple’s age, and for this reason we have rela- regions. Some have an old industrial tradition and modern stop and sample the local wines and cuisine. This, of course, forms Clinical Centre in Ljubljana we have fan- number of points by a factor of 2.5. The fact tively similar results to those we had, except economic development, others are notable for agriculture part of the area’s tourist industry, which in Prlekija is not only sea- tastic equipment, everything we need and remains, however, that we are a small team, that the age structure of patients has changed based on modern principles, and others again simply for sonal but, thanks to a number of thermal spas, is active throughout that will benefit us in the future for a few just a handful of people, 10 physicians in all – the patients are in fact older. the many curiosities of their dialects. Among these special the year. Wine tourism represents an additional attraction for visitors years, until in fact the further development for the entire vascular department and neu- In stroke prevention we are somewhere near regions of Slovenia is Prlekija, which some consider to be to the spas. of technology makes it obsolete. In the new rological intensive therapy, which is the only the top of the eastern European countries, part of Štajerska, while others claim that it is part of Po- premises a broad mind can at this moment institution in Slovenia that covers the entire but sadly still way down on the list of most murje. For their part, the inhabitants of this region, the The wines of Prlekija were once exported as far as the imperial court truly find more room for expression. territory of Slovenia serving the most seri- advanced Western countries. Prleki, say that they are something special and invite us in Vienna. Today, thanks to a good marketing strategy, doors are ously affected neurological patients. Since it to visit this special land of theirs to enjoy its beauties and, opening for these products in Brussels, London and New York. Prle- As the chair of the Clinical is the only one, it is in itself a tertiary institu- Your work also involves education. above all, savour the good things it has to offer. kija is also famous for breeding excellent trotting horses, and the Department for Vascular Neurology tion, and a considerable section of the rest of What do you teach? town of Ljutomer can boast of being the home of the second old- and Intensive Neurological Therapy the department must be involved with the For 10 years I was a lecturer at the Health Prlekija is part of north-eastern Slovenia and lies between two rivers, est harness-racing club in Europe. Even now, the local hippodrome at the Ljubljana University Clinical secondary health level. The saddest thing College of the for the and the Mura. The centre of the region is the town of hosts at least nine harness races every year. And since we are talking Centre, you are striving for it to for me is that the Ljubljana Clinical Centre, graduate nurses. Now within the Medical Ljutomer. Prlekija is a land of gentle hills and beautiful plains which about Ljutomer, we should mention the town’s most famous son, be a top institution and for top in addition to being a top tertiary institu- Faculty of the University of Ljubljana I teach in the past provided ideal conditions for the development of agricul- the linguist Fran Miklošič, who in the 19th century was such an em- neurological care to be accessible as tion, is also a secondary and care-providing an undergraduate course in cerebrovascular ture, and in fact the area is one of the most fertile parts of Slovenia. inent scholar that he was appointed rector of Vienna University. The broadly as possible across Slovenia. hospital for the entire Ljubljana region, and diseases, as well as teaching research in the Conditions here are ideal for the cultivation of numerous agricul- local people are naturally also proud of many other people from the In all respects I am working to see that the sometimes owing to this we lack space to field of cerebrovascular diseases at the post- tural crops, from vines to fruit and vegetables, and the overwhelming area who have earned themselves a permanent place in the cultural Neurological Clinic is a top institution. take on new and complicated cases where graduate level. I also conduct practicals for impression is that everything here is in the right place: the sunny, history of Slovenia, among them the film maker Karol Grossmann, I must admit with pride that just recently patients need help that they can obtain only students and I do a lot of mentoring for the south-facing slopes are all planted with vines, below them extend the the composer Slavko Osterc, the poet Cvetko Golar, the inventor we received a Decision from the Slovenian in such an institution. For this very reason I neurology specialisation. Two years ago, in orchards, and fields and meadows fill the valleys. The north-facing and factory-owner Johann Puch and many others who have made a Ministry of Health, something we have launched a campaign of outpatient work for cooperation between the Section for Cere- name for themselves at home and abroad. been awaiting for over a year, that we are an TIA patients whom previously we declined, brovascular Diseases at the Slovenian Health slopes are covered with forest. established clinical department within the and now we are trying to attend to them as Society and the Neurological Clinic, with Clinical Centre. This is a kind of certificate in the Express study, in other words within organisation provided by the MŽB Society, Long famous Let’s go to Jeruzalem! confirming that our Vascular Clinical De- 24 hours to provide a complete diagnosis we started the Neurosonology school. Our Many visitors wonder why there is a place called Jeruzalem in Slove- partment fulfils the conditions of being a and immediately provide appropriate thera- school handles all those who want to learn throughout Europe nia, and the name may in fact be one of the reasons why it is one of clinic, and specifically that we can undertake py and in that way reduce the risk of stroke. about neurosonology investigation, and who According to one legend that still circulates in Prlekija, even Napo- the most visited places in Prlekija. Jeruzalem is a vineyard settlement top expert, scientific research and teaching once they have finished all their courses, col- leon was enthusiastic about the wine of Prlekija, after he conquered in the middle of the Jeruzalemske Gorice Nature Park and most work, for which we can also use tertiary How would you compare Slovenian loquia, practical and theoretical exams wish this area. This period is said to have given origin to the name of Prle- tourists get here by following the Jeruzalem Wine Route. The nicest means that are intended precisely for this achievements in neurology with to obtain a diploma to perform neurosonol- kija’s famous wine Šipon (a corruption of the French si bon). Be that way to experience this route is on foot, if you have time, but you can at the University Clinical Centre. These are those in Europe? Are we on a par ogy. The school is set up like other European as it may, evidence of the winemaking tradition in these parts is also also follow it by bicycle or by car. In Jeruzalem itself, everyone feels three criteria that a department must meet to with European neurologists? In which schools of this kind. I also collaborate in provided by archaeological digs, and a variety of wine vessels dating at home – perhaps because of the good wine, perhaps because of become a clinical department. In every field fields are we outstanding? planning the guidelines for neurosonologi- from the time of the Roman Empire have been found here: from the food, and perhaps also because of the powerful energy lines that it must achieve a certain number of points I can only talk about my narrow field, vascu- cal investigation of the carotid artery. amphorae to pitchers, chalices and glasses. Today, the winemaking some people claim run through the area. Visitors are well catered for

42 43 CULTURAL NATURAL TRAILS TRAILS here: a hotel, several agritourism farms, and wineries where visitors Pumpkin-seed oil can be produced by the traditional or hot press- can taste the local wines and have something to eat. And where ing method but Oljarna Kocbek is the only oil mill to also use cold does Jeruzalem in Prlekija gets its name from? One story, which pressing. Gorazd Kocbek: “With traditional or hot pressing, you is perhaps not far from the truth, tells of how in the 13th century first have to grind the pumpkin seeds, then mix them and roast the local seigneur Frederick of Ptuj granted the hills in this area to them and then finally press them. Oil produced this way has a the Order of the Teutonic Knights, who built a number of towers characteristic dark colour. It is dense and has an intense aroma. containing sacred images. In one of these towers they placed an With cold pressing, the process is different, because the seeds are image of Our Lady of Sorrows, which the crusaders were said to not processed first. Whole seeds are poured into a special press and have brought directly from the Holy Land, from Jerusalem itself. the oil is squeezed out. Despite the friction and the pressure, the The painting still hangs on the high altar of the local church, and temperature must not exceed 40°C, for only in this way does the from it the place got its name: Jeruzalem. Whatever the origin of oil conserve all the nutrients contained in pumpkin seeds, and of the name, the place is well worth a visit – because of the wine route course its characteristic aroma. As a result of this process the oil is that brings us here, the fine wines, the holy name, the wonderful lighter, slightly reddish and has almost no smell, while the flavour views and the little pilgrim church that has led some to call the is the same as the flavour of pumpkin seeds.” Oil produced in this place “heavenly”. way can be taken cold, as a preventive medicine, used as a con- diment for various dishes and salads, or used in the preparation of various hot dishes, sauces and even desserts. Oljarna Kocbek Prlekija cuisine – also produces a hand-made dark chocolate with pumpkin seeds and pumpkin-seed oil, sold under the name Strast (Passion). This pumpkin-seed oil is a must chocolate has attracted considerable attention, especially as a new Prlekija is also a land with a rich cuisine. Its numerous gostilne and way of using pumpkin-seed oil. agritourism farms take pride in serving up local specialities. One of THE SLOVENIANS AND THEIR MOUNTAINS these is meat from the tünka (lard barrel), and another is prleška Albert Kos, photo: Darinka Mladenovič gibanica, a layer cake that is quite different from the better-known prekmurska gibanica, a speciality of the Prekmurje region. Naturally, though, every family has its own special way of preparing prleška gibanica. One particular feature of the cuisine of Prlekija, rather as in neighbouring Prekmurje and elsewhere in Štajerska, is the use of pumpkin-seed oil. It is mainly used in salads and in the preparation In response to the question, where Grintovec (2558 m), followed by the third Early human relationship with of certain other dishes. Owing to the growing popularity of pump- they are going to spend their holi- group, the Karavanke, which comprise the mountains a long high-mountain ridge along which kin-seed oil, which was originally mainly popular in the north-east days, Slovenians usually reply: “In In the past, the high Alpine areas were not runs the national border with Austria. of the country, rather as in Austrian , while in recent times it the mountains and by the sea”, which attractive for any dense settlement. Settle- Only the Kamniško-Savinjske Alps are has been making inroads into the cuisine of other regions of Slove- is for many a set holiday pattern. ments remained packed into the valleys, almost entirely within Slovenian territory, nia, quite a number of new oil mills have opened in Prlekija, where Slovenia has both, although in truth and only in places did hamlets and indi- with just a short section touching the Aus- pumpkin-seed oil is produced alongside other oils. The best known much less coast than neighbouring vidual farms appear at higher elevations, trian border, while the Karavanke range is mills in the area are Oljarna Kocbek in Sveti Jurij ob Ščavnici, found- We should also point out that a new type of pumpkin-seed oil, Croatia, so in contrast it offers abun- where the conditions for survival, espe- shared about evenly between Slovenia and ed in 1929, and the Središče mill in Središče ob Dravi, while the “extra virgin pumpkin-seed oil” is primarily the fruit of Slovenian dant opportunities for spending an cially in winter, were tough and inhospi- Emil Sušec mill in Boreci pri Križevcih and the oil mill of Zalika and Austria, and a distinct dividing line, with know-how and, owing to is special qualities, commands a relatively almost obligatory part of one’s holi- table. For a long time, therefore, people Marijan Zanjkovič in Gibina enjoy a growing reputation. the mountain pass of Predel, divides the high price. This oil is particularly popular with passionate gour- days in the mountains. had no special desire or reason to climb Julian Alps into a smaller western section, mets. As well as the dark chocolate mentioned above, they enjoy into the mountains, apart from hunters Gorazd Kocbek of Oljarna Kocbek, where they produce the purest other dishes containing pumpkin-seed oil such as cheese spread the main body of which is in Italy, and a The Alpine character of and herders, who sought profit higher in oils using natural processes, says that pumpkin-seed oil is now being with herbs and pumpkin-seed oil, cream of cauliflower soup with larger eastern section, which is in effect en- the mountains, and since the earliest times used more and more not only in salads but for other purposes too, pumpkin-seed oil, leaf salad with a potato and pumpkin-seed oil Slovenia tirely within Slovenian national territory. knew countless ascents and access routes for example as a condiment or seasoning for other dishes. “Pump- dressing and, to end a meal, a wonderful dessert: vanilla ice cream Slovenia is indeed a highly contoured land. into the high mountains, but were not kin-seed oil is one of the few oils to contain omega-3 fatty acids, with pumpkin-seed oil. Pumpkin-seed oil is also a very valuable Only a fifth of its territory could bede- With these three groups, which form part drawn to the peaks. The mountains were, which are essential for the normal functioning of the human body. It foodstuff from the point of view of healthy eating and physiol- scribed as plains, while the rest is hill coun- of the Eastern Alps – although their peaks on the other hand, rooted primarily in the is also rich in delta-7 sterols which help prevent enlargement of the ogy, since it contains many of the essential fatty acids and a large try, rising ever higher towards the north- no longer rise above 3,000 metres and mythological consciousness of the inhabit- prostate,” he explains, emphasising the healthy qualities of pumpkin- amount of vitamin E and selenium. It is useful for preventing very west, until in the extremities close to the they are therefore markedly lower than ants, in witness of which is the name of the seed oil. He also claims that the unsaturated fatty acids in the oil have common health problems and helps in the treatment of various borders with Austria and Italy it becomes many peaks and ranges in the Central Alps a positive effect on the metabolisation of cholesterol, while the high conditions. Popular medicine has long known the healing power high mountain terrain, with peaks reaching – the Alpine chain ends and merges into highest peak, Triglav [‘Three-head’], whose vitamin and mineral content helps water secretion and has a posi- of pumpkin-seed oil, while more recently much of this knowledge over 2000 metres high. This area compris- the Pannonian Plain in the east and the three-headed summit represented in the tive effect on the nervous system. “Pumpkin-seed oil also protects us has been confirmed by mainstream medical research. es three high-mountain groups, the most Dinaric Alps in the south. Yet despite the folk tradition a three-headed pagan deity. from free radicals and prevents premature ageing, circulation disor- extensive and highest of which are the Ju- more modest heights, Slovenia’s Alps retain ders, arteriosclerotic changes and other problems. The oil is easy to Some people claim that in order to live well two important elixirs lian Alps and their highest peak of Triglav completely a high-mountain character, for The founders of modern digest, does not irritate the mucous membrane of the stomach and is are necessary: wine and pumpkin-seed oil. In Prlekija they are well (2864 m), while not far behind in height which reason alongside France, Switzer- Slovenian mountaineering therefore particularly suitable for people with gastric disorders.” aware of this and know how to use both. are the much less extensive Kamniško-Sav- land, Italy, Germany and Austria, Slovenia The last decade of the 19th century and injske Alps and their highest mountain of is ranked equally as an Alpine country. the period up until the First World War

44 45 NATURAL TRAILS were marked primarily by two mountain- Beginnings of organised own, and especially at the weekend it is a hikers who are regarded as the founders of mountaineering in Slovenia rare thing to be able to stand on a summit modern mountaineering in Slovenia, Dr. without the company of others, so today An important mark was left on Slovenian Julius Kugy and Dr. Henrik Tuma. They there is less of the romantic high-moun- mountaineering from the last decade of were contemporaries and in a way com- tain solitude than ever before, although of the 19th century up until the First World petitors in reaching numerous hitherto course there are fewer visitors in the more War by the ethnic struggle between the remote and less accessible areas. However inaccessible mountain peaks. The former, Slovenian and German-speaking inhabit- there have been increasing numbers, espe- who was an ethnic German merchant in ants of Slovenia, a struggle that was car- cially in recent times, of hikers who avoid Trieste, but partly of Slovenian origin, was ried into the mountains. With the begin- the marked and well-trodden trails, and guided in the mountains by Slovenian nings of tourism, the first people to go in prefer to seek out unmarked routes and guides from Trenta, who knew from ex- large numbers into the mountains were north face, as well as the construction of a terrain without trails, and information on perience many secrets of the mountains, Germanic people from the Slovenian cit- hut at Kredarica, just 400 metres below the this can be found in a number of more re- and he wrote a series of books in German ies, who organised themselves into an eth- summit of Triglav, which was one up on cent mountain guidebooks. Nevertheless about his ascents and mountain experi- nic German mountaineering society and the more distant and lower-lying German there has been a noticeable trend of far ences with them, emphasising his aesthetic set up their own huts in the Slovenian hut. In subsequent decades the Kredarica less multi-day mountain expeditions with by the bigger ones, and in abundance, ex- and emotional response to the mountains mountains, arranging a number of moun- hut was enlarged several times, and at a intervening overnights in mountain huts, cept that it is in a more condensed yet per- and the discovery of their secrets. The tain trails which they marked in Ger- height of 2515 m it is still today the high- haps even more attractive form. It is easier but significantly more single-day trips into latter, a lawyer and Slovenian politician, man. The Slovenians felt deprived, since est of the numerous Slovenian mountain to find ones way around them than in the the mountains, meaning an early morn- was the opposite, for such ascents meant they had the feeling that their mountains huts, and it also houses a permanent me- bigger high-mountain expanses, so hikers ing start from the highest possible point to him primarily the development and were being appropriated by the Germans, teorological station. The priest Aljaž also do not need guides, and can roam around accessible by car, and often involving a consolidation of a sporting spirit, wherein who were trying to give them a German wanted to mark Triglav symbolically as a alone, although for the less experienced whole-day hike to the chosen peak and he also demonstrated a scientific interest, character. For this reason they founded Slovenian peak, and so that the Germans such guides are recommended. then down and returning home – all on since he was the founder of Slovenian Al- the Slovenian Mountaineering Society in could not stop him, he bought the plot of the same day. This kind of ‘express’ moun- pine nomenclature. In the Kamniško-Sav- 1893, with the aim of shoring up the Ger- land on the very summit, where he had taineering is enabled by their increasingly Accidents in the mountains injske Alps, similar pioneering work was man influence in the mountains. A lead- his famous tower, Aljažev stolp, erected. easy access, the modern pace of life with An inevitable consequence of people visit- done by Johannes Frischauf, a professor at ing role here was played by Jakob Aljaž, This was a cramped shelter from storms its continuous lack of time, and for many ing the mountains is the sadly quite fre- the University of Graz. Both dimensions parish priest in the village of Dovje, before for earlier climbers, and to the present day also an individualism, which seeks to quent accidents along mountain trails, of mountaineering, the aesthetic and ex- the entrance to the Vrata valley, which is it is the recognisable sign of the highest avoid the overly collectivist atmosphere of either because visitors set out improperly periential approach of Kugy and the rec- the closest starting point for an ascent of Slovenian mountain. and inadequately equipped, or they overes- spending the night in mountain huts. reational and sporting one of Tuma, have Triglav. He promoted and organised the timate their own psycho-physical abilities, Protection of the mountains driven people in their masses into the construction of a Slovenian mountain hut Visiting the mountains today while of course there is no shortage of ran- An additional problem caused by mass mountains up to the present day. at the end of that valley below the Triglav For several decades now, the Slovenian The fame of Slovenia’s dom accidental occurrences where people visits to the Slovenian mountains is eco- mountains have recorded increasingly mountains abroad fall or slip, and occasionally the rescuers logical in nature, and there are certain ar- high numbers of visitors, something aided It is pleasing to note that those visiting the find them, alive or dead, several hundred eas accessible by mountain roads that are by the ‘manageable’ nature of the Slo- Slovenian mountains include increasing metres further down. A major contributor overloaded with traffic, with the accom- venian mountains, the relative simplic- numbers of foreigners, those who come to such accidents is the sudden changes of panying noise, litter and other intolerable ity and short time required to reach their for the first time and those who have been weather conditions, which surprise many encroachments on nature. The vulner- peaks, and this in turn is enhanced by the returning here for a long time. The fame people along the trail. Mountain rescuing ability of the high mountains, especially frequency of the serviced mountain huts of the Slovenian mountains stretches far has a long, almost hundred-year, tradition its flora and fauna, and the threat of over- and the even more extensive network of across Europe, and not just among the in Slovenia, and is well organised. The aggressive human encroachment on them mountain trails. Each visitor can choose neighbouring Germans. An enchantment highly trained mountain rescuers always was something recognised by a number of for himself the difficulty and effort- re at the beauty of the Julian Alps was ex- respond unstintingly to calls for help, people right at the beginning of the previ- quired for ascents, since the trails are for pressed by the famous British physicist voluntarily and without payment. Where ous century, when the first initiatives were the most part well marked and main- Humphry Davy, who spent three holi- the weather conditions allow, rescuers are launched for establishing Triglav National tained, and where necessary they are also days at the beginning of the 19th century also offered helicopter transport by the Park in the core area of the valley of the secured with cables and pitons. Each year in the village of Podkoren near Kranjska Slovenian Police and Armed Forces, and Triglav lakes, while today the protected Triglav records the greatest number of vis- gora, and zealous work in popularising this reduces the time needed for rescuing area covers almost the entire Slovenian itors, from all sides and all routes, and par- the Slovenian mountains abroad was per- and transport to hospital, and saves many section of the Julian Alps. ticularly at the peak of the summer moun- formed by the Scotswoman Fanny S. Co- lives. The number of such accidents is still taineering season it experiences proper peland, the Reader in English at Ljubljana far from negligible, and sadly many are The mountains are indeed a vital asset for crowds, while the huts surrounding it are University between the wars, and herself the product of recklessness. This also ap- the Slovenians, so human encroachment often overloaded, and there is frequently an enthusiastic mountain walker and Al- plies to numerous foreigners, who are not on them must be extremely limited and little room at the summit by Aljažev stolp pinist. Although in comparison with the familiar with conditions in the mountains regulated by law, if their unchanged ap- for everyone who wants to rest a little Alpine ranges of Switzerland, Austria and and who think the path from the valley to pearance and their wealth, not forgetting there and enjoy the view. Yet the major- elsewhere the Slovenian Alps seem minia- the peak will be easy, and then find them- their reserves of clean drinking water, are ity of the other peaks are not left on their ture, they actually have everything offered selves in difficulty. to be preserved for future generations.

46 47 Extreme kayaking on the Soča river Photo: J. Skok