CENTRE ALUMNI TRIP: THE ART OF PILGRIMAGE March 20-30, 2014
For over 1000 years, people of faith have traveled to the burial site of St. James in Santiago, Spain. The Way of St. James, often known as El Camino de Santiago, is the pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago that houses the relics of St. James. The routes to reach Santiago flourished in the medieval era, paths that were walked by princes, kings, and ordinary peasants. As a result each town along the way to Santiago bears vivid material evidence through ecclesial art and architecture that speaks to the popularity of this practice. Participants will walk in their footsteps upon these well-trod routes, specifically focusing on the route in northern Spain.
Lee M. Jefferson, Assistant Prof. of Religion at Centre, has led students on the Camino to Santiago before. He took students on a CentreTerm course to walk the pilgrimage route entitled “The Art of Pilgrimage.” He writes and lectures on early Christian history and art, and will provide discussions about the Way of St. James on the path to Santiago. March is a delightful time to walk outdoors in Northern Spain. This trip is meant to provide a “taste” of the Camino, however participants should be physically prepared to walk several miles on outdoor terrain. Our walking days will entail at least 10 miles of walking in Spanish countryside where the “yellow arrows” of the Camino guide the way. We will have a service that ferries our luggage between stops on the trip. So participants need not worry about carrying their belongings while on a meditative walk.
TENTATIVE ITINERARY Day 1: Arrive Madrid Arrive in Madrid and transfer to your centrally- located hotel. We will be able to explore Madrid, as well as visit the Prado museum with Prof. Jefferson. Overnight: 3 or 4-star central hotel, Madrid
Day 2: Madrid - Santiago de Compostela - Sarria After breakfast, a coach transfer will take you to Madrid’s airport to catch your domestic flight to Santiago. Upon arrival in Santiago, you’ll be transferred to your hotel in Sarria (112 km away). Visit the local Monastery in order to pick up your pilgrim’s credentials (passport). Later in the evening, sample delicious local cuisine over dinner. Overnight: Hotel Carris Alfonso IX, Sarria. 3 star hotel A comfortable and modern hotel located on the banks of the river Sarria and only a few yards from the pilgrim’s trail. The wonderful restaurant is renowned in the area for its excellent local cuisine.
Day 3: Sarria to Portomarin (Walk: 21.5 km) Today’s section of the Camino is one of the most picturesque. Walk through bucolic countryside, traversing enchanted forests and small patches of farmland to the banks of the Miño River. En route to Portomarín you’ll pass the 100 km marker (only 100 km until Santiago de Compostela!) Portomarin is a picturesque village with an interesting history. Most of the old buildings of the town (including the Romanesque Church of San Juan) were moved stone by stone to higher ground in the 1960s when the Miño river was damned to create the Belesar reservoir. Overnight: Casa Rural Santa Mariña, Portomarin, Rural Inn The owner, Mario, is a jovial gallego who owns the simple wooden cabins, runs a restaurant featuring local cuisine, makes his own wine and takes guests horse-back riding through the surrounding countryside.
Day 4: Portomarin to Palas de Rei (24 km) Passing through small villages decorated with cruceiros (carved stone crosses that mark the way to Santiago) and containing only three or four houses, you’ll meet other peregrinos (pilgrims) on the trail. But although you share your quest and a sense of camaraderie with fellow pilgrims from around the world, there are always moments of solitude to contemplate this special journey. Overnight: La Cabaña, Palas de Rei (3 *** pensión). La Cabaña (the Cabin) is a lodging built of wood and surrounded by gardens and pine and chestnut trees. Located right on the pilgrim’s trail.
Day 5: Palas de Rei to Arzua (27.5 km) After departing Palas de Rei stop to admire the tiny 12th century church dedicated to St. Julian – one of the many Romanesque treasures along the Camino. The undulating countryside is studded with meadows and forests of eucalyptus and pine as you approach Melide; a small town with a wonderful square and church and a good pilgrims’ atmosphere. Here, other pilgrims’ trails merge with the “Camino Frances”, and you are likely to see more peregrinos from here to Santiago de Compostela.
Trace the Camino as it weaves along country lanes and ancient stone pathways called corredoiras. Farmers tend their fields and the chimes of cowbells accompany the sounds of your footsteps. In this area of rural Galicia it is not uncommon to see villagers still using scythes to work the land. At lunch, be sure to try the creamy cows’ cheese from Arzúa and empanada; a light crusty pastry-pie filled with beef or tuna. Overnight: Casa Teodora, Arzua, 2 ** Guesthouse This well-established guesthouse is located right on the Camino de Santiago in the busy town of Arzua. The inn features simple, but comfortable lodgings and a restaurant featuring good local cuisine.
Day 6: Arzua to O Pino (Walk: 19.5 km) Today’s section of the Camino will take you past vegetable patches, meadows, forests and tranquil villages with curious names such as Xen, Ras and Brea. In the village of Santa Irene, you can stop to visit the small Romanesque chapel dedicated to the saint of the same name, St. Irene. Finish walking for the day in O Pino (from where there are only 19 kms left until arriving in Santiago). Overnight: Hotel O Pino, O Pino. (1 * hotel) Located only 19 kms from Santiago, the Hotel O Pino is a small hotel featuring spacious rooms decorated in traditional style. The hotel features gardens, restaurant and coffee shop. Located right on the Camino.
Day 7: O Pino to Santiago de Compostela (Walk: 19 km) Excitement mounts as the trail brings you closer to Santiago de Compostela. Walk through rolling terrain towards Lavacolla, where medieval pilgrims traditionally bathed in the river to purify themselves before arriving in the holy city of Santiago. From here you’ll begin to ascend the Monte del Gozo (“Mount of Joy”), the point where pilgrims first catch sight of the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago, these days surrounded by the busy and modern city of Santiago. Arriving in the Obradoiro Square, in front of the immense Cathedral, is an exciting moment, and after performing the traditional pilgrim rituals inside the Cathedral, check in to your hotel for a well-earned rest! Overnight: 3 or 4-star central hotel, Santiago de Compostela (2 nights) Central hotel in Santiago
Day 8: Sightseeing in Santiago de Compostela After a leisurely breakfast, you’ll have a free morning to explore this wonderful UNESCO designated city. Don’t miss the pilgrims' mass at noon in the Cathedral; where you might be lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro (a giant incensory) swung by the priests high above the nave at completion of Mass. After lunch, enjoy a 2 1⁄2 hour private tour of the magnificent Cathedral with a local art historian. You’ll also explore the narrow streets or rúas of the Old Quarter, where the vibrancy, history and magic of Santiago de Compostela come alive. Later in the evening, enjoy delicious Galician dishes as you celebrate your last night in Santiago and the end of your pilgrimage.
Day 9: Santiago de Compostela to Madrid After breakfast, a private transfer will take you from the hotel to the airport to catch your onward flight to Madrid. The rest of the day is free in Madrid personal sightseeing. Later, rendezvous in the hotel lobby tonight to go out for our farewell dinner. Overnight: 3 or 4 star central hotel, Madrid Central hotel in Madrid.
The approximate cost for this trip, including airfare, most meals, and ground transportation is: $3,000/per person.
Interested participants should contact Lee Jefferson at [email protected].