WORLD WINE TEXT NATASHA HUGHES MW ON THE COAST Kutch Wines’ vineyard. Right: Morgan Twain- Peterson of Bedrock. change’ is particularly apt in this context, as most of the new generation of winemakers are working with grapes grown in Califor- y frst car was a Fiat 127, a teeny little nia’s coastal AVAs. Mbox of a car that, as a friend of mine Tis is, of course, great news for anyone CRUISING used to point out, had two speeds: slow and planning a trip to Te Golden State as it dead slow. Similarly, California has long been allows for the perfect combination of winery regarded as being a two-speed wine producer. visits and the ultimate Californian road trip Te state is probably best known for its down the picturesque Pacifc Coast Highway. mass-produced, branded wines, wines that Te best place to kick of your trip is in San CALIFORNIA are largely devoid of varietal character but, Francisco as it also gives you an opportunity fc Coast like Mary Poppins’ medicine, packed with to make the most of its funky restaurant Natasha Hughes MW takes a road trip down the Paci enough sugar to help them slip down easily. scene. State Bird Provisions (1529 Fillmore Highway to check out the wineries that are changing the At the other extreme, California makes St, San Francisco, +1 415 795 1272, www. top-end wines that follow the more is more statebirdsf.com), where intensely favoured model of production. Tese wines have more small plates are wheeled round the restaurant perception of Californian wine by producing elegant drops ripe fruit, more extraction, more alcohol and on dim sum trolleys, allowing you to swoop of lighter bodied charm from cooler regions. more oak than most and, inevitably, they cost on anything that takes your fancy, is a par- more. It’s not unusual for the basic cuvée ticular favourite. I’m also very partial to the from a Napa winery to sell for upwards of $50, relaxed atmosphere and nouveau Mediterra- while the top wines from cult producers, such nean cuisine at Nopa (560 Divisadero St, as Screaming Eagle and Schrader, retail for San Francisco, +1 415 864 8643, www. well over the $1,000 mark. nopasf.com). Te wine list at either place Te focus for California’s turbo-charged gives you a great insight into the mindset of production style has always been Napa Valley, California’s most innovative winemakers. but other regions, such as Sonoma or the Once you’ve had your fll of San Francisco AVAs of the Central Coast, have hardly and its food, which could take a while, it’s bucked the trend. But, as per the Bob Dylan time to begin your exploration of the Cali- song, the times they are a-changin’. In truth, fornian wine regions. Although it’s tempting the times have been changing for quite a to head to Napa if you’re short of time while. Pioneers like Cathy Corison, Ridge’s Sonoma should be your priority; it’s the epi- Paul DraperMAKING and INROADS Littorai’s Ted Lemon have centre of much of the new-wave action. always Dominiksought toHuber create (right) restrained wines, Sonoma County is a sprawling area that lies lookingof to Terroir Europe al for Limit. inspiration rather than to the north of San Francisco, and its diverse Opposite: Monastery ratings offrom Escaladei. Robert Parker Jnr. And, down climates and soil types have resulted in the on the Central Coast, the iconoclastic Ran- creation of multiple AVAs. Broadly speaking, dall Grahm has long championed grapes though, most of the innovative action is from the Rhône Valley, Spain and Italy, focused around cool-climate sites on or near which he believes are ideally suited to Cali- the coast. Like most of coastal northern Cal- fornia’s warm, dry climate. By and large, ifornia, the vineyards are ofen blanketed by MEET RANDALL GRAHM, though, California’s stylistic sea change is dense fog in the morning, but by lunchtime TED LEMON & MORE being driven by a younger generation of win- the clouds part, bathing the area in brilliant To watch the interviews, download the latest version of viewa and scan emakers seeking to create wines that express Californian sunshine. Tis fog, which rolls the page with your phone or tablet. PHOTOGRAPHYCOURTESY OFKUTCH WINES AND BEDROCK WINE CO. every nuance of their terroir. Te phrase ‘sea in from the ocean, helps moderate tempera- 102 WWW.GOURMETTRAVELLERWINE.COM WWW.GOURMETTRAVELLERWINE.COM 103 WORLD WINE RHÔNE RANGER Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Littorai (788 Gold Ridge Rd, Sebastopol, +1 707 823 9586, www.littorai.com, visits by appointment) has vineyards on the Sonoma Coast and in the Anderson Valley, but its winery is situated alongside its Te Pivot tures, particularly in summer and early County. Although temperatures in southern Vineyard, which lies just outside Sebastopol. autumn. Some sites are so cool that it can be California are generally higher than those in A visit doesn’t come cheap (from $25), but it’s a struggle to ripen grapes, but like many the north of the state, this particular area is a great opportunity to visit one of the pio- marginal climates (such as Burgundy, the cool thanks to a corridor formed by the hills, neers of California’s new-wave wines. spiritual homeland of many of California’s which funnels the ocean breezes inland. Proprietor Ted Lemon worked for many of coastal winemakers), the very best wines pro- Temperatures rarely exceed 27°C, even at the Burgundy’s greatest domaines, including duced here have an elegance and poise that height of summer, but nor do they fall much Dujac, Bruno Clair, Georges Roumier and de seems almost impossible to achieve in sites below 12°C in winter. As a result, the grapes Villaine (the family winery of Aubert de with a gentler, more consistent climate. can remain on the vine for as long as it takes Villaine) before returning to the USA. He For Sonoma’s producers (with a few to achieve full ripeness. Santa Rita didn’t established Littorai in 2008, where his char- exceptions), pinot noir – and, to a somewhat attract much viticultural interest until the donnay and pinot noir have become national lesser extent, chardonnay – is where it’s at. 1970s. Te pace of planting began to quicken benchmarks. Biodynamic principles govern VINE FORM Tis is a distinct point of diference from in the ’80s and ’90s, when growers realised viticulture here, and a visit incorporates a The Hirsch Vineyard neighbouring Napa, where Bordeaux grapes that the climate aforded them a particularly tour of a garden designed to attract native at Kutch Wines. Right: rule. Having said that, Sonoma has some fne long growing season. Tere’s growing excite- pollinators, as well as insights into the crea- Kutch Wines owner Jamie Kutch. Most of the innovative action is old vineyards planted with gnarly zinfandel ment about the area’s potential to make tion of plant-based teas to maintain the vines. bush vines, as well as a growing portfolio of focused, mineral-laden chardonnays and A tasting of the elegant wines follows. focused on or near the coast. varieties that range from Rhône Valley reds pinots, as well as syrahs that express cool- Jamie Kutch began his working life on the to sauvignon blanc and semillon. climate notes of cracked pepper and violets. trading foor at Merrill Lynch in New York HELPING HAND Ted and Heidi Lemon Tis vinous variety continues as you Somewhere around Santa Rita, the Pacifc before chucking it all in to make wines on the of Littorai. Left: Chris travel south, down past San Francisco and Coast Highway merges into the stream of West Coast. Te frst release from Kutch Brockway and Sam on into the Santa Cruz Mountains and the freeways heading east into downtown Los Wines (21660 8th St E, Sonoma, +1 917 270 Baron of Broc Cellars. Central Coast. Perhaps the best-known Angeles. Vineyards give way to sprawling sub- 8180, www.kutchwines.com, visits by producer in Santa Cruz and the most irrev- urbs and broad surfng beaches. Although appointment) came in 2005, and 10 years erent is Randall Grahm. His reputation was your road trip may well be at an end, your later, his elegant pinot noirs are considered made thanks to his work with Rhône grapes, love afair with California’s new style of wines to be among California’s best. Kutch sources and he’s a founding member of North Amer- will probably have only just begun. his fruit from some of the coolest sites on the ica’s Rhône Ranger movement. In the past Sonoma Coast. His aim is to fnd impeccable couple of decades, though, he’s broadened his Where to Taste fruit in order to allow him to practice mini- portfolio to include Iberian and Italian If you want to get down with the hipsters, mal intervention winemaking using varieties. And, where Grahm leads, much visit Broc Cellars (1300 5th St, Berkeley, indigenous yeasts. Punch downs are done by of the Central Coast ofen follows. Tere’s +1 510 542 9463, www.broccellars.com). hand (or, when I visited, by foot), and Kutch a good chance that, in years to come, the Te winery is located in an industrial tries to use as little sulphur as possible – in region may become as well-known for its warehouse in downtown Berkeley. Owner some cases, no sulphur at all. Te result is a malvasias, picpouls, albariños and nebbi- and winemaker Chris Brockway buys in series of restrained, sophisticated wines that olos as it is for its syrahs and grenaches.