BACK TO BLUE TOUGH HALF DRESSING DENIM WAS ALL OVER THE PRADA GROUP MEN’S DESIGNER RUNWAYS, CLOONEY? BUT BRANDS ARE BATTLING SALES INCH UP 1 PERCENT, GIORGIO ARMANI IS AN OVERALL SALES DECLINE SAID TO BE DRESSING DUE TO THE POPULARITY IMPACTED BY CURRENCY GEORGE CLOONEY FOR OF ACTIVEWEAR. HIS MARRIAGE TO AMAL PAGE MW1 FLUCTUATIONS. PAGE 2 ALAMUDDIN. PAGE 7

BUILDING FOR THE FUTURE Ralph Lauren Net Hit By Retail Investments

By VICKI M. YOUNG

RALPH LAUREN CORP. appears to be in the early stages of a retail push for growth. That was the gist of comments by Jackwyn Nemerov, president and chief operating offi cer, and Christopher H. Peterson, chief fi nancial offi cer, dur- THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ing a conference call to Wall Street analysts following the company’s report of fi rst-quarter results. While WWD the results were better than expected, profi ts still slid 10.5 percent for the period, owing largely to in- frastructure investments such as store-opening costs. The company will open its fi rst Ralph Lauren lux- ury fl agship in Greater China this fall; its fi rst Polo fl agship on Fifth Avenue at the end of this month, as well as an 8,000-square-foot Polo store in Singapore next month, and two Club Monaco stores are set to open shortly in London. The company is also offi - cially unveiling its Polo women’s line when the Fifth Avenue fl agship opens. Spanish Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief executive offi - cer, said, “Our fi rst-quarter results demonstrate that we are making the right strategic decisions and invest- ments to support our long-term growth objectives.” Nemerov said during the call that despite geopo- litical tensions and macroeconomic pressures over- seas, the company’s “brands and products performed Accent very well in the fi rst quarter. We achieved double-dig- Olé! A subtle Iberian infl uence it growth in Europe led by continued strength in our coursed through resort as retail operation and increased wholesale shipments for the spring-summer season.” designers tempered the look She said the early read on the fi rst collection of in stark black. Here, Juan Polo tailored clothing for men’s as a directly operated Carlos Obando’s viscose and business was “very strong.” Nemerov also noted that the new Polo fl agship on Fifth Avenue is “just the be- linen blouse and pants. Manolo ginning of a global rollout that will take place over Blahnik for Juan Carlos Obando the next several years.” shoes; Patricia Underwood hat; As for what’s trending in the second quarter for women’s, Nemerov said, “We’re seeing that the dress Oscar de la Renta earrings. For SEE PAGE 6 more, see pages 4 and 5.

FASHION SHOWS New York Men’s Week Could Soon Be Reality

By DAVID YI

A SEPARATE New York Men’s Fashion Week may be on the calendar as soon as next July — but there are still some signifi cant hurdles to overcome. Fueled by the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s recent acquisition of the Fashion Calendar, which will streamline the scheduling of fashion shows and events in New York, momentum has been building to set up a distinct men’s fashion week in the city to mir- ror those in London, Milan and Paris. Steven Kolb, chief executive offi cer of the CFDA, acknowledged that there is much interest and support surrounding the idea. “We have a lot of boxes we can check off as of now,” he told WWD. “We have enough designers who could be a collective of talent in both emerging and established that would make a strong statement for American de- signers. The Mayor, New York City and the New York City Economic Development Corp. are very supportive of our work around all the collections. And we have enough venues and locations around the city to hold it.” There is still one major box left unchecked, however. “Funding. Without the money, and a substantial amount of it, it’s not going to happen,” Kolb said. He noted that he and the CFDA have been “actively en- gaged” in the last 18 months in securing sponsorship, but still have a way to go. “We need more funding for venue rentals. Travel for PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE international editors, it takes marketing promotion,

MODEL: LAUREN BUYS/ELITE; HAIR BY DAMIAN MONZILLO FOR ARTMIX BEAUTY USING DAVINES; MAKEUP BY JAVIER ROMERO USING MAKE UP FOR EVER; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: ROMERO USING MAKE UP FOR EVER; FASHION JAVIER MAKEUP BY USING DAVINES; BEAUTY FOR ARTMIX DAMIAN MONZILLO MODEL: LAUREN BUYS/ELITE; HAIR BY SEE PAGE MW8 2 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 WWD.COM Prada Sales Up 1% in First Half THE BRIEFING BOX growth in the 566 directly operated stores was 5 IN TODAY’S WWD By GORDON SORLINI percent, Prada said. In terms of brands, the Prada brand saw sales MILAN — Strong sales growth in some Asian mar- increase 5 percent at constant exchange, and Miu kets and the Americas wasn’t enough to offset cur- Miu sales grew 7 percent. “Except in Europe, the Jessica Alba sports a rency headwinds and a negative economic environ- [Miu Miu] brand continues to achieve high rates of white, sleeveless lace ment in Europe, which tempered Prada Group’s growth in all markets,” Prada said. top and denim culottes sales growth in the first half of the year. Church’s and Car Shoe registered an expansion with a lace trim. For The Hong Kong-listed company said Wednesday in sales of 12 percent and 3 percent at constant cur- more looks from the that consolidated net revenues in the six months rencies, respectively. actress, see WWD.com. ended July 31 rose 1 percent versus the same pe- The fashion house said clothing and footwear IMAGES riod a year earlier to 1.75 billion euros, or $2.4 bil- performed “extremely well,” registering revenue lion. At constant exchange rates, the growth in rev- growth of 18 percent and 23 percent at constant enues was 4 percent. currencies, respectively. Leather goods showed

Figures are converted at average exchange rates weakness, with sales decreasing in the period by 1 IMAGES/GETTY for the periods to which they refer. percent at constant currencies following “the fall in In a note released after the results, Citi analysts the number of tourists whose spending is more ori- calculated that Prada, which didn’t publish sepa- ented towards this product category,” Prada said. rate second-quarter figures, saw sales in the three Chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli said months ended July increase by about 5 percent, in that, against the unfavorable economic backdrop in BAUER-GRIFFIN/GC constant currencies, on the year-earlier period, to the first half of the year, the company has continued BY 927 million euros, or $1.26 billion. “to focus our efforts on medium/long-term growth.” PHOTO The performance was in line with its and con- Bertelli added that “in the coming months, our sensus figures, Citi said. priority commitment shall be towards monitoring Prada said turnover in the Asia-Pacific region market trends and performance without, however, in the first half was up 2 percent in the period at interrupting the implementation of our plans for Ralph Lauren Corp. seems to be in the early stages of a retail constant exchange rates, but results were mixed growth. At the same time, we will implement a rig- push for growth. PAGE 1 on a country-by-country basis. In South Korea, orous cost-control program with the aim of protect- Hong Kong and Singapore, performance was weak, ing margins.” New York Men’s Fashion Week may be on the calendar as while China, which accelerated in the second quar- Prada is scheduled to report full first-half re- soon as next July, but there are still some hurdles. PAGE 1 ter, notched up 12 percent growth in the first half, sults in September and Bertelli said that the com- Prada said. pany might also update its full-year guidance “in Walgreen Co. has acquired the remainder of Alliance Boots “Other markets [in Asia] managed steady rates of light of the results achieved in the first half of the GmbH shares in a $5.29 billion deal. PAGE 3 growth,” the company added, with revenues in Japan year and with a clearer view of the outlook for the jumping 19 percent at constant exchange rates. months ahead.” Deadlock and confusion intensified Wednesday in the garment In the Americas, Prada said the positive trend In a meeting with investors and press in Milan in industry in Dhaka, Bangladesh. PAGE 3 continues, with sales up 14 percent at constant ex- early April, Bertelli said guidance for 2014 includ- change rates, sustained by both strong domestic ed 9 percent sales growth, like-for-like growth of at Accessories brand Lizzie Fortunato is relaunching its consumption and tourist spending. least 3 percent and operating profit margins in line e-commerce site today. PAGE 6 In Europe, turnover was down 1 percent — at with 2013. Guidance for the 2015-16 period included both constant and current exchange rates — as 11 percent top-line growth, 5 percent like-for-like Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. will launch a fall campaign the market was “penalized primarily by a fall in growth and improved operating profit margins. PAGE 6 the volume of tourism and by the negative general In its note, Citi said that Prada’s current guid- called Look Good, For Good. economic environment, which has hit domestic con- ance “looks potentially ambitious in light of weak sumption,” it said. sales and earnings development” in the first half of Giorgio Armani will outfit longtime fan George Clooney for his PAGE 7 In the Middle East, sales jumped 21 percent at the year. upcoming nuptials. constant exchange rates. However, Citi expects the group to be able to de- In terms of channels, Prada said that wholesale liver a compound aggregate growth rate of 9 per- The last few days have been eventful for Stephen Gan, the recovered in the second quarter, growing 2 percent cent in sales over the 2013-16 period and said that it cofounder and president of Fashion Media Group. PAGE 7 at constant exchange rates to 288 million euros, or expects “best-in-class gross margin to improve fur- $391.7 million. ther, to just over 75 percent by calendar year 2016 Activewear is taking a big bite out of the denim business, but Meanwhile, “in a market environment charac- owing to favorable mix. jeans brands are fighting back. PAGE MW1 terized by a general fall in consumption,” the retail “In our view, the current share price probably channel, which represents more than 83 percent of represents an interesting entry point for any long- Moncler SpA on Wednesday said net profit in the first half of the firm’s total sales, “held up well,” with revenues term investor looking for solid earnings growth, the year more than doubled. PAGE MW2 in the first half up 1 percent to 1.44 billion euros, upside potential from Miu Miu and strong balance or $2 billion. At constant exchange rates, revenue sheet/potential for capital returns,” Citi said. Tarun Tahiliani has teamed with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to bring a new dimension to high-end men’s wear. PAGE MW8

Tani, the Hong Kong-based luxury underwear and loungewear Vietnam Tops June Apparel Imports manufacturer, is expanding its global reach. PAGE MW8

deal being negotiated between plier to the U.S., had an 11.2 ON WWD.COM By KRISTI ELLIS the U.S. and 11 countries, “that percent increase in imports to may come online in the next cou- 936 million SME, while India WASHINGTON — Vietnam post- ple of years, but it is probably a posted a 12.8 percent gain to 80 CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER: Jessica Alba showed off her ed the largest increase in ap- combination of those factors.” million SME in the month from style while promoting her new movie “Sin City: A Dame to parel imports to the U.S. in June Lamar also said the West Coast June 2013. Kill For” on both coasts. For more, see WWD.com. — up 17.4 percent to 228 million port labor contract talks likely “The big news is that China square meter equivalents — contributed to the big increase in was up 11 percent for the among the top 10 apparel suppli- apparel imports from Vietnam, as month,” said Julia Hughes, presi- ers, followed by India and China, well as from all apparel imports dent of the U.S. Fashion Industry FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA the Commerce Department’s to the U.S., which rose 8.4 percent Association. “When you are the @ WWD.com/social trade report showed Wednesday. to 2.1 billion SME in June com- supplier with a 43 percent [U.S. Apparel imports from pared with a year ago. apparel import market share for TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Bangladesh, beset by problems the month] and you are growing WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. and efforts to improve safety in by double digits, you are defi- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. its garment sector, fell 3.2 per- nitely seeing a huge bump there. VOLUME 208, NO. 27. THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and cent to 131 million SME in June There are a lot of conversations two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine compared with June 2013, while about companies shifting out of Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: 17.4% S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, apparel imports from Cambodia, China because their prices are Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, impacted by months of strikes going up, but clearly that didn’t NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services RISE IN APPAREL IMPORTS Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West over wages, rebounded and rose FROM VIETNAM IN JUNE. affect their imports in June.” Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, 0.7 percent to 76 million SME. Hughes said India’s rise in Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. The overall trade deficit nar- apparel shipments signals a new Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address rowed in June to $41.5 billion “It may be a reflection of peo- commitment from some compa- changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. from $44.7 billion in May. ple bringing in product in antici- nies to source there. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with “One thing we’ve been talking pation of the port and labor issues “There has been a lot of talk your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be about for a while is that Vietnam on the West Coast,” Lamar said. about a resurgence of imports mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request is a very strong competitor and The two sides — the from India and that the new gov- to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse continues to grow,” said Stephen International Longshore and ernment in India was more busi- permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Lamar, executive vice presi- Warehouse Union and Pacific ness-friendly, and that we were Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we dent at the American Apparel & Maritime Association — are going to see a rebound because believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR Footwear Association. “I don’t still in discussions and have not India is home to many terrific DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED know if that is organic growth or reached agreement on a new con- textile and fabric producers,” TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, the expectation about TPP,” the tract that expired July 1. Hughes said. “We are definitely UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Trans-Pacific Partnership trade China, the top apparel sup- starting to see that in the data.” OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 3 WWD.COM Walgreens to Acquire Balance of Boots; HQ to Remain in U.S. largest pharmaceutical wholesale and an inversion and instead provide ben- efficient global platform, and a capital By VICKI M. YOUNG distribution network, is still subject to efits to companies who remain based allocation policy that includes pursuing shareholder and regulatory approvals. in the U.S. to help create more jobs for strategic opportunities including merg- SHARES OF Walgreen Co. fell 14.3 per- Under the new structure, the company American citizens. The Obama adminis- ers and acquisitions and a new $3 bil- cent Wednesday as investors were dis- will be renamed Walgreens Boots Alliance. tration is considering options to curtail lion share repurchase program through appointed that the retailer will remain Greg Wasson will be president and chief relocations for taxation purposes. the end of fiscal year 2016. based in the U.S. following its $5.29 bil- executive officer of the combined entity, In a conference call Wednesday to Walgreens’ guidance for fiscal 2016 lion acquisition of the remainder of positions he currently holds for Walgreens. Wall Street analysts, Wasson said, “We calls for revenue of between $126 billion Alliance Boots GmbH, a move that also Stefano Pessina, executive chairman of consider benefits such as substantial and $130 billion and adjusted earnings had the company lowering guidance for Boots, will become executive vice chair- financial advantages, competitive con- per share of $4.25 to $4.60. fiscal year 2016. man of the combined entity responsible siderations and future M&A opportu- Deutsche Bank Securities Inc. ana- Walgreen shares on Wednesday closed for strategy and M&A, reporting to Wasson. nities.” He explained that the risks lyst George Hill, in early reaction to a at $59.21 in trading on the New York He will also be chairman of a new strategy included possible protracted litigation Walgreens’ Boots update, said of the trans- Stock Exchange. committee of the company’s board. Jim with the Internal Revenue Service that action that “at best [it] could be considered Exercising its option to acquire the 55 Skinner will serve as non-executive chair- could go on for “three to 10 years,” po- extremely disappointing and could lead to percent stake in Alliance Boots it didn’t al- man of the combined firm. tential for dual taxation in the interven- significant pressure on the shares.” ready own was expected back in May. The The new holding company for the ing years, and consumer backlash and The adjusted EPS range is below deal, expected to close in the first quarter combined entity will be headquartered political ramifications. Hill’s estimate of $4.98 and Wall Street’s of 2015, is a cash and stock transaction in Chicago, with Walgreens operations Walgreens’ official statement regarding consensus of $5.08, he noted, adding that that involves 3.13 billion pounds, or $5.26 based in Deerfield, Ill., and Boots re- its decision cited “ongoing public reaction the company’s updated guidance would billion, in cash and 144.3 million shares maining based in Nottingham in the U.K. to a potential inversion and Walgreens imply fiscal 2016 adjusted operating of Walgreen common stock. The company Some shareholders had been push- unique role as an iconic American con- earnings in the range of $7.3 billion to initially acquired a 45 percent equity stake ing for the company to move overseas to sumer retail company with a major por- $7.8 billion. That’s below Hill’s current in Alliance Boots in a cash-and-stock deal lower its tax rate, a move called tax in- tion of its revenues derived from govern- estimate of $8.2 billion and lower than — $4 billion cash and 83.4 million shares — version. For some time, there was a sense ment-funded reimbursement programs.” Walgreens’ earlier guidance range of $9 valued at $6.7 billion in fall 2012. that Walgreens might be leaning toward Connected to the merger, Walgreens billion to $9.5 billion. The planned transaction, which will the move even as critics complained it is initiating a three-year plan that in- “In short, we believe this guidance create a global pharmacy-led retailer would be un-American. Some have sug- cludes an acceleration of a $1 billion would imply an earnings erosion at the with more than 11,000 stores in 10 coun- gested that federal tax rules should be cost-reduction plan at the corporate, underlying business that we are at a loss tries, as well as establish the world’s changed to eliminate the incentives for field and store levels to establish a more to explain,” he said.

Moody’s: Lease Expirations to Free Up Cash Bangladesh Workers By ARNOLD J. KARR Minimum Lease Obligations Reject Payment Offer (in billions) MAJOR U.S. RETAILERS have more than BGMEA headquarters to receive $70 billion in lease obligations coming off the COMPANY 2018 2014 CHANGE By MAYU SAINI their wages at 9 a.m. Wednesday. table in the next four years, opening up sig- Wal-Mart $9.5 $13.9 -31% Workers who were locked in said nificant opportunities for initiatives ranging DEADLOCK AND CONFUSION in- they were not sure who did it. The from e-commerce development to basic store TJX $5.9 $10.2 -42% tensified Wednesday in the garment front gate was locked, and police count reductions. industry in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in- officials alleged that workers them- A study by Moody’s Investors Service found Gap $4.7 $8.8 -47% cited by police action at the site of selves had orchestrated it. Outside the minimum lease obligations for a group of a hunger strike by workers of the the building, more than 100 police 62 U.S.-based retailers — all either publicly L Brands $2.7 $4.5 -40% Tuba Group factory and the release officials gathered, along with water traded or holding public debt — will drop to on bail of the company’s owner, cannons, in case there was violence. $133 billion in 2018 from $203 billion this year Sears $2.3 $5.5 -58% Delwar Hossain, late Tuesday. Meanwhile, at BGMEA head- . S as leases expire. The median for this group is Kohl’s $1.9 $2.0 -3% T Hossain is also the owner of quarters, officials waited to begin OR

a reduction to $1.2 billion in 2018 from $1.6 bil- P Tazreen Fashions Ltd., where a paying workers the two months in

lion this year. Macy’s $1.5 $2.3 -35% RE fire took the lives of 111 workers wages — part of the 40 million taka, The overwhelming majority of these expir- in November 2012. After months of or $516,000 at current exchange — PANY ing rent agreements are expected to be re- Target $1.3 $1.5 -13% protests by worker groups, he was that workers said was owed to them. COM newed and the stores operating under them to arrested in February by Dhaka po- Many of the workers have spent the

remain open. But the rapid growth of e-com- J.C. Penney $1.1 $2.1 -48% ROM lice on charges of homicide. last week on hunger strike and on F

merce and the slowing pace of store expan- ICE More than 1,500 workers of the Wednesday, as they did the day be- J. Crew $1.0 $1.3 -23% V

sion suggest a possible reallocation of capital, ER Tuba Group, which includes five fore, gathered to protest and call for according to Jason Cuomo, lead author of the S other factories that Hossain owns, a settlement of their pay. BGMEA

Express $0.9 $1.5 -39% ORS study and Moody’s vice president and senior T have been protesting and on hun- officials told WWD that only half accounting analyst. Claire’s $0.8 $1.8 -56% ES ger strike since July 28, demand- a dozen workers came to receive INV “We haven’t looked at these numbers this way S ing payment of back wages due their money — it had been clearly previously and there’s nothing to suggest that the Bon-Ton $0.5 $0.7 -25% DY’ from May to July and acceptance stated that if they did not come in on reductions are that much different than in the OO of their five-point list of demands. Wednesday morning, they would not past,” he told WWD. “What is different is that, in Neiman Marcus $0.4 $0.5 -17% The five factories involved in receive the payment from BGMEA. “We are just trying to help the situ-

the last five years, retailers have seen so many M SOURCE: the protest are Tuba Fashion, more consumers do their shopping and buying Tuba Textile, Mita Design, Taif ation out by raising funds and to through their smartphones and in other ways on- Sears’ will decline 58 percent to $2.3 billion Design and Bughsan Garments. settle the matter,” said BGMEA vice line. There’s likely to be a greater propensity for from $5.5 billion. International groups and sup- president Shahidullah Azim. retailers to let leases expire and use some of that The other retailers of apparel covered in porters of the workers have been By 1 p.m., about 60 workers money to address online opportunities.” the study with more than $1 billion in reduc- stepping in, as well. The Asia had collected payments. Later Moody’s cited U.S. government and National tions ahead are: L Brands Inc. (down 40 per- Floor Wage Alliance, for example, in the day, the BGMEA extended Retail Federation data showing that e-commerce cent to $2.7 billion); Claire’s Stores Inc. (down has called for international soli- until Thursday the deadline for sales have grown to 6 percent of total sales from 56 percent to $800 million) and J.C. Penney Co. darity to support the Bangladesh workers to come in and collect 5 percent two years ago while, during that same Inc. (down 48 percent to $1.1 billion). garment workers on hunger their back wages. period, the pace of store growth has slowed to less By sector, Moody’s found that office supply strike. It also listed the brands for While some workers had called than 3 percent a year from more than 12 percent. stores have the highest rate of upcoming lease which the five factories have pro- for the release of Hossain so that Meanwhile, with their eyes on the online expirations in the next 48 months, 67 percent, fol- duced garments recently, includ- he could pay the them, others marketplace, stores including Sears Holdings lowed by non-apparel specialty retailers (51 per- ing Wal-Mart, Li & Fung, Cotton claimed that his release was being Corp., Staples Inc. and Toys ‘R’ Us Inc. have cent), convenience stores (47 percent), apparel & Silk Italy, Airness, RedCat USA orchestrated by factory owners. A moved ahead with plans to scale back their and footwear stores (42 percent) and department — KiK and OWIM/Lidl, during the meeting between the government, store counts by nearly 10 percent or more and stores (37 percent). Drugstores have the smallest period of May to July for which the BGMEA and worker leaders on other retailers, such as Office Depot Inc. and opportunity for lease expirations, just 15 percent, salaries are pending to them. Sunday appeared to hold promise RadioShack Corp., have similar plans. with Walgreen Co., CVS/Caremark Corp. and Rite As workers entering the ninth of a settlement, and BGMEA agreed Office supply stores have the fastest rate of Aid Corp. facing four-year expiration rates of 10, day of their hunger strike awoke to make payments to the workers of upcoming lease expirations of the sectors stud- 15 and 28 percent, respectively. on Wednesday at Hossain market the two months in wages. ied, but numerous broadline and apparel retail- Cuomo pointed out that a reduction in in Badda, which houses some of Having rejected the BGMEA ers also will have wide-open real estate options, square footage might be accomplished by some the Tuba factories, they found offer, the Tuba workers are and opportunities to reduce their leverage, in the retailers without a corresponding decline in themselves locked in the build- now planning their next move, next 48 months. store counts. ing. Although they had already mobilized by the Tuba Sramik Wal-Mart Stores Inc. will see its minimum “Retailers should be asking themselves not rejected a compromise offer Sangram Committee, which has lease obligations drop to $9.5 billion in 2018 only if they need particular stores, but if they from the Bangladesh Garment 15 organizations within its fold. from $13.9 billion this year, a 31 percent de- could more effectively operate in smaller units, Manufacturers and Exporters The committee has planned an cline, while The TJX Cos. Inc. will see a 42 such as by opening small fulfillment centers to Association to pay workers for all-out strike if their demands percent reduction, to $5.9 billion from $10.2 complement what they’ve done to build their two months’ salary, empty buses are not met by Wednesday. They billion. Gap Inc.’s obligations will drop 47 per- e-commerce volume,” he said. “The question were lined up outside the build- vowed to begin demonstrations cent, to $4.7 billion from $8.8 billion, while becomes, ‘Where do we need to be?’” ing waiting to take them to on Thursday.

w07a003a;9.indd 3 8/6/14 7:48 PM 08062014194951 4 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014

Altuzarra’s stretch triacetate dress.

FRINGE DETAILS, EMBELLISHED CAPES AND RUFFLES CHANNEL SOUTHERN SPAIN’S Dsquared2’s TORERO embroidered leather cape, CULTURE IN Honor’s GRAPHIC cotton shirt BLACK AND and Agnona’s cotton WHITE FOR stretch RESORT. pants. spanish

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Agnona’s cotton stretch jacket and skirt, with Honor’s cotton shirt and tie. Manolo Blahnik for Juan Carlos Obando shoes; Patricia Underwood hat; Oscar de la Renta earrings.

Viktor & Rolf’s silk shirt and DKNY’s triacetate and polyester skirt. Nanette Lepore belt.

f ly DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: ROMERO USING MAKE UP FOR EVER; FASHION JAVIER MAKEUP BY USING DAVINES; BEAUTY FOR ARTMIX DAMIAN MONZILLO

STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MODEL: LAUREN BUYS/ELITE; HAIR BY 6 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014

Long-term Investments Impact Cole’s New Fall Campaign Ralph Lauren’s 1st-Qtr. Profits {Continued from page one} Lauren’s net income dropped to $162 Promotes Social Action

category has been very strong, as has million, or $1.80 a diluted share, from chief creative officer. been the skirt category. We’re seeing $181 million, or $1.94, a year ago. That By LISA LOCKWOOD The ad campaign will include a na- that the customer wants to show their was better than Wall Street’s earnings tional print, outdoor, digital and social legs. That speaks to the femininity of per share estimate of $1.76. NEW YORK — Kenneth Cole media strategy. The campaign was photo- our look and the feel of our product.” Total revenues gained 3.3 percent to Productions Inc. will launch a fall cam- graphed in New York by Gregory Harris, Cole’s New Campaign Encourages Social The company is also assessing fu- $1.67 billion from $1.61 billion, which paign called Look Good, For Good that featuring such models as Mirte Maas, Kai Action ture plans with’’ Macy’s for American included a 3.7 percent wholesale net encourages action, rather than just rais- Newman, Baptiste Radufe and Sung Jin Living, the lifestyle line created by sales decline to $708 million and a 9.2 ing awareness of social issues. Park. In the spirit of social impact, the Ralph Lauren’s Global Brands unit percent retail net sales gain to $960 The Kenneth Cole Foundation cast and crew each donated 5 percent of that was initially an exclusive at J.C. million. Same-store sales on a con- will support specific charitable proj- their fee toward one of the projects the Penney Co. Inc. The line’s sportswear solidated basis rose 3 percent. Lower ects under three company pillars — company is supporting. offering will be rolled out at all Macy’s wholesale revenues were due to shifts Collective Health, Civil Liberties and The company declined to reveal its doors for fall, with a dress rollout at a in timing of certain shipments between Artistic Activism. The charities are the fall ad budget, but said spending was up. limited number of doors. quarters. Wall Street had been expect- St. Luke Foundation for Haiti, Help Ads will run in such magazines as Elle, There are also more retail rollouts ing total revenues of $1.73 billion. USA and the Sundance Institute. In Lucky, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar, ahead, although the timing hasn’t yet Selling, general and administrative addition, Kenneth Cole enlisted three GQ, Details, Out and Wired, as well as been set. According to Peterson, also expenses rose 7.3 percent to $789 mil- photojournalists to chronicle the work T: The New York Times Style Magazine, in the telephone interview, the com- lion from $735 million. The company of each charity partner. The campaign Interview and Flaunt. Images will also ap- pany is optimizing its fleet of Denim & said an operating margin of 14.3 per- will be brought to life digitally at ken- pear outdoors in such cities as New York, Supply stores in terms of merchandis- cent reflects investments in growth ini- nethcole.com/forgood, which goes live Los Angeles, San Francisco and Miami. ing and assortment plans before it con- tiatives. It spent $85 million in capital In a shift from raising aware- expenditures mostly to sup- ness of social issues to encourag- port new retail stores and ing action, Cole is partnering with infrastructure investments. TakePart.com. The digital maga- We’re seeing that the For the quarter, the com- zine and social action platform of pany’s gross margin was 61 Participant Media will produce percent, up 30 basis points. original editorial pieces covering customer wants to show Peterson said the 30-basis- the impact of Cole’s charity part- point increase is likely to ner projects, as well as enable visi- their legs. That speaks to trend for the balance of the tors to take actions benefiting each year, although the actual nu- nonprofit through TakePart.com’s the femininity of our look merical percent may vary. Take Action Platform. TAP actions Based on his experi- include signing petitions, pledging, ence at Procter & Gamble, donating, sending messages of sup- and the feel of our product. Peterson also introduced a port and measuring the influence of low-cost commercial paper social sharing. Cole will provide re- — JACKWYN NEMEROV, program at the group dur- wards for each action taken. RALPH LAUREN CORP. ing the quarter as a capital- Cole’s three projects are: efficient way of financing, I St. Luke Foundation in Haiti: Following a first for the apparel firm. the 2010 earthquake in Haiti, Cole siders rolling out that concept. There The cfo explained during the interview started collecting clothing, footwear are two in the U.S. and a number in that the program is “completely flex- and funds to build The Kenneth Cole Asia and Europe. ible.” It allows the company to borrow Haiti Health Center in Cité Soleil, He said the company has acceler- up to $300 million of short-term borrow- which is part of a medical system ac- ated its pace of store openings for Club ings — for as little as one week to a few cessible to more than 1.5 million peo- Monaco. There are 61 company-operat- weeks — in the commercial paper mar- An image from the Look Good, For Good campaign. ple. The St. Luke Foundation for Haiti, ed stores, with most of the retail loca- ket. So far the company has issued $20 a Haitian-run organization employing tions in the U.S. and Asia. million in commercial paper last month Friday and will highlight exclusive pho- more than 1,000 Haitian people, provides Overall, the company has 436 directly at a rate of 0.3 percent. Peterson com- tographer and video content from Haiti, education, medical care and humanitarian operated stores. As well as the 61 Club pared that interest rate with a five-year Sundance and Help USA, as well an outreach through key programs. Monaco stores, it has 140 Ralph Lauren note the company issued in September interactive timeline to showcase Cole’s I Help USA’s Youth Scholarship Fund: This stores and 235 Polo factory stores, plus that had a rate of 2.5 percent. The pro- philanthropic history. season, Cole will support Help USA’s 503 concession shop locations worldwide.’’ gram can be ramped up or down, and “For over 30 years, we have commit- Youth Scholarship Fund, which will pro- That’s separate from the stores run by li- once the amount borrowed has been ted our resources to making a differ- vide financial assistance to families mov- censed partners overseas. paid down, it can be re-borrowed again. ence by addressing what people wear, ing from transitional shelters into perma- With the focus on retail, the European The company reiterated its expecta- while inspiring them to be aware and nent housing. economic backdrop for the company ap- tion that consolidated net revenues for about what they stand in as well as I Sundance Institute’s Documentary Film pears to be holding steady. According to fiscal 2015 will rise by 6 to 8 percent. It what they stand for. This season, we Program: For fall, Cole will support Peterson, “Our business is doing very also said it expects second-quarter con- are highlighting three charitable or- documentary storytelling through the well in Northern Europe, in the U.K. and solidated net revenues to increase by 4 ganizations by sending notable photog- Sundance Institute Documentary Film Scandinavian markets. At the same time to 6 percent. raphers and filmmakers into the field Program, which provides creative and in Southern Europe, in Spain and Italy, Shares of Ralph Lauren inched up to document the inspiring accomplish- financial support to cinematic feature those markets are stabilizing.” 0.2 percent to close at $156.88 in Big ments from three very different per- documentaries from independent film- For the three months ended June 28, Board trading. spectives,” said Cole, chairman and makers globally.

but won’t see a full Lizzie Fortunato to Enter Neiman’s rollout until spring — is another avenue of growth. introduction to Neiman’s, Clutches currently retail By RACHEL STRUGATZ to drive significant growth for $350, and the majority of for the remainder of this year small leather goods will cost ACCESSORIES BRAND Lizzie and next. Lizzie Fortunato less than $200. Zip pouches Fortunato is taking a measured ap- will be carried at Neiman’s and passport and sunglass proach to growth, relaunching its e- Beverly Hills; San cases will be functional first commerce site today and preparing Francisco; Dallas; Coral — but also embody Lizzie to enter its first department store, Gables, Fla.; Boca Raton, Fortunato’s whimsical, Neiman Marcus, after seven years Fla., and Short Hills, travel aesthetic (think in business. N.J., doors beginning prints with pyramids or “Until now [lizziefortunato.com this weekend. The Lizzie sunglasses). has] been low-maintenance, but a The brand gen- Fortunato Jet Lizzie Fortunato good source of revenue that’s given erated $1 million Set necklace. is carried in more us the conviction to relaunch,” said in retail sales last than 100 doors world- Kathryn Fortunato, cofounder and year, a 48 percent wide, including Kirna head of sales and operations, who increase, and the Zabête; Intermix; Ten runs the company with her twin sis- Lizzie Fortunato’s new e-commerce experience. company is look- Over Six; Hampden ter, cofounder and creative director ing for $1.5 million Clothing in Charleston, Lizzie Fortunato. was designed by Brooklyn-based firm in sales this year and $2 S.C.; Le Bon Marché Even though e-commerce has not Winsome Brave. The site will incorpo- million in 2015. Neiman’s in Paris, and Harvey been a focus for the company, it has de- rate content from Lizzie Fortunato’s so- e-commerce site will carry Nichols in London. The veloped into the brand’s largest point cial channels and blog to create a more the brand starting with the re- business was started with a of sale domestically. Next week, the immersive brand experience. sort collection in November. $10,000 investment from Kathryn company’s fall collection of jewelry and The 29-year-old Fortunato sisters ex- Smaller leather goods — which ap- Fortunato, and has not received any leather goods will hit the site, which pect e-commerce, as well as the brand’s peared in the resort 2015 collection, funding or outside investments.

w07a006a.indd 6 8/6/14 7:19 PM 08062014192045 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 7 WWD.COM

A Hearst spokeswoman MEMO PAD and said the publisher had FASHION SCOOPS nothing to do with CR. “CR has been a GAN’S PLAN: The last few days prosperous venture for me,” Gan have been eventful for Stephen said. “It’s an experiment that’s DRESSING CLOONEY AND HIS worked hand-in-hand with the Gan, the soft-spoken cofounder paid off from Day One.” BRIDE?: George Clooney is sisters to create a premium and president of Fashion Media To back that up, Gan said a longtime fan of Giorgio product line directly inspired by Group, which publishes CR September advertising pages Armani, so it makes sense their iconic styles and individual Fashion Book, V magazine, VMan totaled 154, up from 148 pages that the designer outfit hair needs.” — JULIE NAUGHTON and Visionaire. His split with last September. CR pulled four him for his upcoming business partner Cecilia Dean had more pages than its big launch nuptials. According to PERRY AT A PRICE: The father- become public, but Gan, who issue in 2012, which carried sources, an entire team son team of George and Oscar also serves as creative director 150 pages. Gan offered that V’s from the designer’s Milan Feldenkreis has been a long-standing for Hearst Magazines’ Harper’s September issue has 156 ad office reportedly flew up to partnership at what was once Bazaar, said the breakup “wasn’t a pages, a 50 percent increase over Clooney’s Lake Como, Italy, Supreme International and is now sudden one. last year. VMan, too, had a better home recently to fit him Perry Ellis International Inc. But “For those in the know, it wasn’t September, with 68 pages of ads, and his male attendants for if reports currently circulating a surprise but a clarification of the versus 63 a year ago. his September wedding to in the investment community way we worked,” Gan said of his In order to grow its youngest human rights lawyer Amal George STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE are accurate, the duo might be relationship with Dean. magazine, CR — which Gan Alamuddin. Clooney considering a sale of the Miami- Dean, he said, would continue admitted is in “need of a boost”

“They’re locked and PHOTO BY based company of which they hold working on Visionaire, which he digitally — the title is relaunching loaded,” the source said. more than one-fifth of the shares. called “more of an art book,” and its Web site on Aug. 28. The print The wedding, which is scheduled for Less than a month ago, activist he would work on V, VMan and version of CR will go on sale on Sept. 20, is said to be taking place in Venice, investment firm Legion Partners took a 6 CR, the glossy he oversees with Sept. 4, while V and VMan go where Clooney has reportedly secured “an percent stake in the firm in tandem with Carine Roitfeld. Dean and James on sale Sept. 10 and Sept. 18, entire island” for the weekend’s festivities. the California State Teachers’ Retirement Kaliardos, both of whom cofounded respectively. The affair is expected to be small, System, looking to bolster its Fashion Media Group with Gan, Although he acknowledged the source said. FOR MORE balance sheet and separate the will expand Visionaire into film, the difficulty that the overall As for Alamuddin’s wedding SCOOPS, SEE roles of chairman and chief digital, exhibitions and apparel, magazine industry is facing, Gan dress, the bride-to-be is believed to executive officer, both currently according to Gan said each book has a 70 percent be considering several designers, WWD.com. held by George Feldenkreis. As for V and CR, Gan denied sell-through on the newsstand. including Oscar de la Renta. Shares Wednesday spiked 7.9 recent reports that the magazines “For larger magazines, there’s a Spokespersons from Armani and percent to close at $20.73, with would fold or go digital only. 30 percent sell-through,” he noted. de la Renta declined comment. most of the gain following The Deal’s “It’s totally wrong and it’s “It’s very promising that seven out — JEAN E. PALMIERI midafternoon report of a possible sale. With mudslinging,” he said, musing that of 10 of our magazines end up in the stock off recent lows, the opportunity the rumors were probably from a someone’s home.” A HAIRY DEAL: Kourtney for a value acquisition might have passed: “disgruntled ex-employee from CR. Drilling down further, CR Kardashian, Kim Kardashian The current ratio of enterprise value “There’s a changing of the will print 65,000 copies for the West and Khloé Kardashian to earnings before interest, taxes, guard. It’s that time of year. People newsstand, while V will circulate are teaming with hair-care depreciation and amortization is 14.3. are on their way out. It’s not the 60,000 and VMan will circulate company Farouk Systems Calls seeking comment from the first time I’ve seen it,” he said, 55,000. Gan also gets revenue from Inc. to create Kardashian company weren’t returned at referring to staffers who recently subscriptions and single-copy Beauty, a hair line that press time. left the company for other jobs. sales bought online. Gan revealed will feature styling — ARNOLD J. KARR Gan also denied that Hearst that V has roughly 9,500 print products, tools and picks up the printing costs for CR subscribers and 40,500 digital accessories. The THROUGH SEVERAL LENSES: — a deal Roitfeld was rumored subscribers. In 2014, according Kardashian Beauty Rag & Bone branched out to make with executives at the to a spokeswoman, V’s total line is scheduled for a with its original content for fall, publishing company when she circulation is 100,000, CR’s is spring debut. “We have commissioning creative director Dilly signed to become Harper’s 65,000 and VMan’s is 90,000. been developing Kardashian Gent, who has worked with Radiohead, Bazaar’s global fashion director. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Beauty carefully with our Tina Turner and Jack fans’ needs in mind as well Items from the White, to produce three as our individual hair-care Kardashian Beauty line. different films based on needs,” said the Kardashian the brand’s fall runway sisters in a joint statement. collection. Gent, in “Our personal desire for healthy, beautiful turn, hired directors Colin Rich hair and hands-on product development has (time-lapse film), Wendy Morgan allowed us to design products we felt were (music videos) and Vern Moen missing in the market.” (documentaries) to film three For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. “The partnership with Kourtney, Kim and videos based on their respective Khloé to introduce Kardashian Beauty was a areas of expertise. The films natural fit,” said Basim Shami, chief executive launch today on rag-bone.com. officer of Farouk Systems Inc. “Our team — JESSICA IREDALE Spaces Nu Skin Shares Drop on Earnings, Guidance COMMERCIAL

REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED $640 million. Earlier, analysts had pro- PRODUCTIONS Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- By Full service shop to the trade. on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ ARNOLD J. KARR jected EPS of $1.68 and revenues of Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 stores. If you sell to fashion accessory $847.5 million. buyers, email: [email protected]. Est. Company hiring an in-house sales SHARES OF Nu Skin Enterprises Truman Hunt, president and chief rep. for Juniors Line. Must have min. 5 Inc. lost nearly one-fifth of their value executive officer, said that conditions in 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes yrs experience & relationships w/ all dept. & chain stores. Send resumes to: Wednesday after the Provo, Utah-based China had begun to “stabilize since we Menswear Showrooms [email protected] D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 direct selling firm missed second-quar- began accepting new sales leader ap- Samsung C&T America is Hiring! ter estimates and offered third-quar- plications in May after a three-month ENCAD OPERATOR in Commerce, ter guidance that fell well below Wall voluntary cessation.” CA. Operate 2 sublimation and 1 direct 389 5th Ave, dye Mimaki machines. Prioritize and Street’s expectations. The company had stopped schedul- New York, NY 10016. manage Encad projects. Match colors, A convenient suite for a showroom, create/correct repeats, fix designs. Ongoing problems in the firm’s big- ing promotional meetings and accepting 977 sq feet, airy witha l ot of light.AC, Communicate with studio and sales gest market, Greater China, figured in applications from prospective represen- shelving and furniture included CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER teams. Manage inventory and Please contact: Dynamic, $70+M NYC-based troubleshoot issues to reduce both the results and guidance shortfalls. tatives in China in January as an investi- [email protected] apparel design& distribution company downtime. 5yrs encad req’d, Ned seeks a CFO to join the team as we Graphics & Photoshop exp. Shares ended the day down 19.7 per- gation into the firm’s business practices restructure our team for growth. Email resume to cent at $46.52 following the company’s began. In March, its Chinese operation REQUIREMENTS:Apparel industry [email protected] experience & CPA preferred report that net income in the three was fined $540,000 in connection with the RESPONSIBILITIES: Oversee all internal financial matters, months ended June 30 declined 73.8 sale of products deemed to lack sufficient including: preparation of monthly percent to $19.5 million, or 32 cents a documentation and activities by unregis- financial statements, development of financial business plans and forecasts diluted share, from $74.4 million, or tered direct sellers of Nu Skin products. & monitoring performance on a $1.22, in the 2013 quarter. Stripping out The company’s previous guidance divisional basis, coordinate accounting software & hardware needs with IT charges for the write-down of its inven- for the second quarter included pro- Staff, ensure legal & regulatory tory in China and other items, adjusted jections for $100 million in sales in compliance regarding all financial functions, bank covenants / tax filings, earnings per share were $1.13, 14 cents China for its Tru Face Essence Ultra manage all company contracts in concert with CEO, including vendor, below the consensus estimate of $1.27. skin-care serum while sales came in at royalty and all other agreements With Greater China revenues off 12 about half that mark. Compensation competitive and commensurate with experience; percent to $229.9 million, overall sales “We believe this was largely due to Email Resumes to: declined 3.2 percent to $650 million from the lack of business promotional meet- [email protected] $671.3 million a year ago. The consensus ings and the suspension of applica- estimate for revenues was $709 million. tions, which impacted the ability of our Third-quarter guidance was set for sales force to build momentum” in the (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] EPS of between 90 and 95 cents with months leading up to the limited-time revenues ranging from $620 million to offer, Hunt said. SPRING into ACTION YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO EARLY—A PREVIEW OF SPRING/SUMMER TRENDS FOR 2015

IN PRINT & ONLINE: 9/22 AD CLOSE: 8/8 RODOLFO MARTINEZ. REPRESENTS, GROOMING USING LVA BY ANDY STARKWEATHER STARKWEATHER AT ORGANIC. MODELS: JAMES LASKY CLICK, IMG, AT SAM AND AT STIRLING FUSION. AT FASHION MERCEDES ASSISTANT: PSL BASS.

M reaches the most influential decision makers, plus the world’s most stylish men. WWD.COM/M ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: Paul Jowdy,Vice President, Group Publisher 212.630.2434 | paul—[email protected] MAN OF THE WEEK In the SPOTLIGHT PLUS Keeping It Weird A look at a number Moncler sees While enjoying a popularity of interesting first-half profits resurgence, “Weird Al” Yankovic collaborations more than double. is still in the fashion doldrums. set for fall retail. Page MW8 Page MW2 Page MW2

August 7, 2014

BLUE NOTES Denim Brands Getting Casual Vendors offer joggers, other options to capitalize on the activewear craze.

by DAVID YI

ACTIVEWEAR IS taking a big bite out of the denim business, but jeans brands are fighting back. After several years of strong increases, men’s jeans sales have struggled with weaken- ing sales and margin-sapping promotions. But knowing that comfort is king with today’s cus- tomers, manufacturers are embracing the jog- ger trend in an attempt to replace some of the business that has migrated to other categories. For the 12 months ended June 30, total sales of men’s jeans were $5.5 billion, down 2.5 percent from the previous year, according to The NPD Group Inc. Unit sales dropped as well, falling to 206.9 million compared with 213.9 million in 2013. The hardest hit were the 18-to-24 and 35-to-44 age brackets, with sales dips of 5 and 8 percent, respectively. Enter the “jogger” pant, better known as the sweatpant. If women are purchasing more yoga pants to fit their active lifestyles, men are following suit, looking to these sweats as a versatile apparel item that can take them from the gym to the office. “It’s a trend, but it’s something that all denim companies are focusing on or should be focusing on,” said Rebecca Duval, vice president equity analyst at BlueFin Research Partners. “There are two versions we’re see- Throwback ing in the market now: the uberstretchy jog- ger, which is like denim but very soft, then this denim that looks like it’s woven terry cloth and everyone is going to that. “It’s a hot trend, but it’s not going to take over all of the other fits. It will be an impor- Thursday tant trend for the season that will keep con- sumers interested,” she said. “A lot of retail-

BADIA ers want it or are chasing it, so much so that the mills can’t even keep up with the sheer Retro-inspired jeans ALEX amount of volume they’re requesting.” BY were trending on the Silver Jeans Co., founded in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, by Michael Silver, is STYLED runways this season — jumping on the bandwagon with the intro- duction of the Joga. The new pant, which re-

perfectly complementing MODELS; tails for $88, is made of a poly-cotton blend American heritage with Lycra and is indigo-dyed. It was intro- MAJOR duced for fall and aims to look like denim denim staples. Contrast AT but feel like a sweatpant. “Our whole concept was not to try to hit stitching and looser GATES the customer over the head, but to subtly

silhouettes were among BAILEY allow them to feel like they’re cheating,” the key features that are Silver said. “It’s not OK for guys to know that they have stretch in the fabric. It’s not expected to give a boost MICHAEL masculine. You almost have to fool them and can’t tell them it’s not real denim.” to the mature denim MODEL: Silver said the company will focus on soft- business. For more on er, stretchier fabrics but create innovations

WILSON; so the Joga has “a real denim construction the denim market, see that isn’t too limp and too soft and stretchy.” Levi’s denim jacket “Today, the term ‘casual’ has become syn-

pages MW4 to MW6. KRISTIINA and Prada’s denim onymous with activewear and comfort,” said BY jeans, both in cotton. Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst.

PHOTO {Continued on page MW7} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 Men’s Week

KEY TAKEAWAY FOR THE SEASON: Armed with the Seppou knife and titani- um spork, the hand-forged Japanese steel In the SPOTLIGHT blade and durable utensil can be a reus- able option for lunch or camping.

NAME: Wings + Horns x Porter travel collection. IF TWO HEADS are better than one, that two colors: wheat with lime green accents HISTORY: To mark its 10-year anniversary, same rule can be applied to apparel brands. and brown with bright orange accents. Canadian-based lifestyle brand Wings + Come September, there will be several in- RELEASE DATE: Sept. 15 Horns partnered with Japanese brand Porter novative collaborations being released PRICE POINT: $160 on a travel-inspired custom backpack and at retail. These include an automobile KEY TAKEAWAY FOR THE SEASON: company teaming up with an outdoor Made of 50 percent recycled plastic heritage brand on luxury goods for the bottles and breathable materials, this Wings + Horns x masses, and two sportswear brands particular boot has a shock-absorbing Porter zippered wallet. pushing the design envelope to revamp EVA midsole, ideal for warm-weather a classic footwear silhouette. Here are a hikes and treks. few standouts: NAME: Nau x Snow Peak utensils. NAME: Vault by Vans x Diemme and HISTORY: Eco-friendly apparel brand Horween footwear. Nau and outdoors brand Snow Peak de- HISTORY: The West Coast signed a special capsule that marries Nau’s skate brand Vault by Vans Portland, Ore., roots with Snow Peak’s and Italian handcrafted Tokyo-inspired craft and design. The cu- footwear manufacturer rated assortment of utensils features Diemme are teaming up Japanese influence and mobil- on a two-tone sneaker that ▲ Palladium x Alpha ity that speak to the road warrior will come to life in the Industries MA-1 jacket. foodie. “Our customer is always form of the Sk8-Hi LX and moving. They’re in the city, fight- the Era LX. In this fourth ing the elements, at work, out installment of the Vault Pampa boot. The boot for a drink. It was impor- zippered wallet. Made in by Vans’ partnership with is co-labeled by the U.S. tant that the collection be Japan, the backpack com- Diemme, the sneaker will Department of Defense, able to move seamlessly bines leather and suede incorporate Chicago-based which awarded Alpha Industries between whatever adven- with a waterproof lining, Horween leather and will the contract to produce military- tures your day throws at flight satin and canvas; be assembled in Italy. inspired outerwear 50 you,” said Nate Borne, the wallet is made of Known for its craftsman- years ago. general manager at leather and suede. ship, Diemme footwear RELEASE DATE: Sept. 1 Snow Peak. RELEASE DATE: has been manufactured PRICE POINT: $175. RELEASE DATE: Sept. 1 Aug. 15 in Montebelluna, KEY TAKEAWAY FOR PRICE POINTS: $10 to $70. PRICE POINTS: $175 Italy, since the 1870s. THE SEASON: Color- for the wallet and Horween Leather blocked and military $875 for the backpack. Co. was founded outerwear is the per- KEY TAKEAWAY FOR in 1905 and continues to fect combination to THE SEASON: Wings make all leathers by hand. combat cold and gloomy + Horns was born be- RELEASE DATE: Nov. 1 weather. tween trips to Canada Barbour x PRICE POINTS: $300 to ▲ and Japan and the collec- Land Rover $350. Vault by Vans NAME: Stüssy x Timberland Euro tion reflects those roots. jacket. KEY TAKEAWAY FOR THE x Diemme and Hiker boot. SEASON: A simple and sophis- Horween shoes. HISTORY: Stüssy teamed up with NAME: Barbour x Land Rover ticated sneaker that can be worn Timberland to revamp the tradi- HISTORY: British heritage with trousers or jeans. tional Euro Hiker boot. The collabo- brand Barbour and Land Rover ration is comprised of nubuck and features partnered for the first time on a collec- NAME: Palladium x Alpha Industries tion that reflects rural traditions through MA-1 flight jacket. Stüssy x a playful and functional apparel line.

HISTORY: Designed to complement the Timberland boot. The collection, for both men and women, Palladium x Alpha Industries boots, the ▲ is a modern interpretation of rural tradi- collaboration will introduce the MA-1 tions as evidenced by Country Lux, which flight jacket in a fresh color-blocked form. was inspired by the British countryside Made of the same nylon fabrication used and offers an exclusive new tartan. in the boot, the jacket is updated through RELEASE DATE: Sept. 1 a slimmer fit and bears Palladium’s rub- PRICE POINTS: $729 for the Grindon ber-patch logo. jacket and $269 for the Craglough sweater. Founded in 1920 to make aircraft tires, KEY TAKEAWAY FOR THE SEASON: Palladium later utilized its canvas and rub- Nau x Snow Designed to appeal to city dwellers, the ber expertise to dress the French Foreign Peak utensils. collection focuses on family activities and Legion, birthing the signature canvas fitness in the great outdoors.

Santel said that the group’s most important store openings Moncler Profits Jump in First Half in the second quarter were trav- el-retail locations in airports in by GORDON SORLINI In the second quarter, rev- also did well in Europe, with the 28 percent, to 21.6 million euros, Hong Kong, Milan (Malpensa) and enues jumped 27 percent on the Italian market making a recovery or $29.6 million, while the Europe, Rome (Fiumicino), as well as a MILAN — Italian high-end sports- year-earlier period, reaching 72.9 in the second quarter, “in line with Middle East and Africa (exclud- new store in Moscow. wear maker Moncler SpA on million euros, or $99.9 million, our expectations,” he said. ing Italy) group revenues grew 16 Pointing again to the group’s Wednesday said net profits in the while the net loss narrowed to In the three months to end percent, to 82.6 million euros, or financial performance, Santel first half of the year more than 5.4 million euros, or $7.4 million, June, sales in Italy increased 14 $113.2 million. pointed out how Moncler’s gross doubled on the back of strong rev- from 8 million euros, or $10.5 mil- percent on the year-earlier pe- In terms of channels, both margin — at 155 million euros, enue growth in all markets except lion — a loss linked to the season- riod, to 14.9 million euros, or wholesale and retail put in a or $207.7 million — reached 71 Italy and strong performance in ality of the business. $20.4 million. Italy remained the strong performance in the first percent of sales in the first six stores open at least 52 weeks. The three months to end June group’s largest single market, half, with the former registering months of the year, up from 70 In a statement released after marked “another very good quar- representing 21 percent of total 9 percent growth, to 96.4 million percent in 2013. The gross mar- the close of trading here, where ter for Moncler,” chairman and revenues, although this was a bit euros, or $132.1 million, and the gin improved mostly as a result the company is listed, Moncler said chief executive officer Remo less than its weight in the second latter up 28 percent, to 121.9 mil- of “channel mix,” which led to that net profits for the six months Ruffini said on a conference call, quarter of 2013. lion euros, or $167 million. Retail higher retail sales. However, ended June 30 reached 18.1 million boosted by the 10 percent com- In the first half, sales in Italy sales also benefited from the Santel added that the flip side to euros, or $24.8 million, compared parable-sales gains as well as the expanded by just 1 percent, to 47.5 company’s store-opening cam- the retail expansion campaign is to 8.3 million euros, or $10.9 mil- rollout of new stores. In the first million euros, or $65.1 million. paign, which will continue into higher expenses. lion, in the year-ago period. half, Moncler opened seven new Asia and Rest of the World the second half. The company, meanwhile, is Total revenues increased 19 per- monobrand retail locations, bring- put in the strongest sales growth On the conference call, chief gearing up for a new advertising cent in the period, reaching 218.3 ing the total to 114 worldwide. in the first half, with revenues corporate officer Luciano Santel push, which will include a cam- million euros, or $299.1 million, Ruffini pointed to double-digit expanding 38 percent on the said Moncler will open another 18 paign developed with the help while like-for-like sales increased sales gains in Japan in the second year-earlier period, to 66.6 mil- stores by December, with an ad- of Annie Leibovitz, to start in 10 percent, driven by strong perfor- quarter, along with “solid results” lion euros, or $91.2 million. The ditional 10 locations already “se- November and which will also air mance in North America and Asia. in Hong Kong and the U.S. Moncler Americas followed, with sales up cured” for 2015. on digital platforms.

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 Men’s Week

C-of-H Man’s denim jacket and jeans with Michael Bastian’s shirt, all in cotton.

The return of runway denim, blended with the indigo- blue trend and Westernwear references, is shining a new light on the denim arena. Denim — ALEX BADIA Forever

PHOTOS BY KRISTIINA WILSON Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 MW5

Cult of Individuality’s cotton vest and AG’s denim jacket Dsquared2’s cotton and and Michael Bastian’s spandex denim jeans. denim jeans, both in cotton. Fossil belt.

Burberry Prorsum’s denim jacket, Palmer Trading Company x Dickies 1922’s shirt, Rag & Bone’s T-shirt and MSGM’s denim jeans, all in cotton. N.Y. B&B, BROOKLYN, URBAN COWBOY CAMPUZANO; LOCATION: LUIS ASSISTANT: FASHION HAIRCARE; ALTERNA AND CHANEL USING ARTISTS EXCLUSIVE AT BUTTERFIELD JESSI BY GROOMING MODELS; MAJOR AT GATES BAILEY MICHAEL MODEL: MW6 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 Men’s Week

Visvim’s denim G-Star Raw’s shirt, jacket, Palmer Denim & Supply’s T-shirt Trading Company and Kenzo’s denim jeans, x Dickies 1922’s all in cotton. underjacket and Denim & Supply’s denim jeans, all in cotton.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ menswear-news.

Acne Studios’ shirt, Mills Supply’s T-shirt Levi’s shirt and and Alex Mill’s denim denim jeans, jeans, all in cotton. both in cotton. Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 MW7 Denim Brands Branching Out {Continued from page MW1} will include shades of khaki, olive and navy. more innovation,” he said. Thanks to the I need?’” said Cohen. “If there’s not innovation “As a country, we’ve gotten so casual that The brand also introduced a No Fade denim new products, the company said Baldwin or technological advancements, the denim we can wear one step above pajamas out line this past spring, which retails for $198 Denim has grown by 80 percent each year market will continue trending downwards.” in public now. Denim is now considered and guarantees the indigo and black colors since launching men’s in 2009. Uniqlo, owned by Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., dressy, which is one reason that the indus- will stay the same shade for up to 40 washes. Hudson Jeans, now owned by Joe’s Jeans said it is on the upswing with men’s denim, try has lost its momentum — the consumer “I’m optimistic about the denim indus- Inc., saw 16 percent sales growth in the sec- thanks to technology such as Heat Tech fab- is gravitating toward more loose and com- try and we need to continue to innovate and ond quarter, with men’s denim now compris- rics, the antiodor line and windproof jeans. fortable fits.” offer something new to continue the conver- ing about 20 percent of overall sales. In the past year, the company has reported Seven For All Mankind, owned by VF sation,” he said. “Our men’s denim is still The biggest and most profitable denim sales growth of 120 percent in its denim cat- Corp., is also seeing the importance of the going strong and we project an optimistic style is the Byron fit, retailing from $165 egory alone, according to a spokeswoman. jogger and introduced a version this sum- future ahead.” to $220, which comprises 80 percent of the “From our perspective, we see strong mer as it continues to grow its men’s divi- To stay competitive, brands like Baldwin business. The price points of the entire line growth in this category in the next few years sion. “I think it’s important for us as a fash- Denim are no longer focusing solely on range from $175 to $300, with prices of the and sales have grown over the past six to 12 ion brand to reflect trends that are right for jeans. For instance, the company is con- most expensive jeans rising $40 since 2010. months,” said Justin Kerr, Uniqlo’s global se- our customer,” said Barry Miguel, president stantly introducing products to its lineup. The rise in price is due to treatments nior vice president of merchandising. “We’re of Seven For All Mankind. Three seasons ago, it introduced its ver- and details, said Dina McCaffrey, senior seeing that our customers aren’t going to TRACK Seven For All Baldwin Denim Mankind FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Xxxx Xxxx Xx WWD.com/ menswear-news. xx Xxxx Xxx X Xxxx xxxxx xxxxxx xx xxxx xxxxxxxxx xx xxxx xx xxxx xxxx xxx xxx x

by DAVID YI

Activewear is taking a big bite out of the denim business, but jeans brands are fighting back. After several years of strong increases, men’s jeans sales have struggled with weak- ening sales and margin-sapping promotions. But knowing that comfort is king with to- day’s customers, manufacturers are embrac- ing the jogger trend in an attempt to replace some of the business that has migrated to other categories. For the 12 months ended June 30, total sales of men’s jeans were $5.5 billion, down Uniqlo 2.5 percent from the previous year, according to The NPD Group. Unit sales dropped as For fall, the company will move into a sion of the jogger pant, retailing for $298. vice president of sales at Hudson. “Price these $300 jeans now and that it’s difficult to well, falling to 206.9 million compared with cargo jogger. For fall, the firm will expand into knitwear, has never been an issue with our customers, justify that price. Instead, they’re spending 213.9 million in 2013. The hardest hit were “We have now in our collection knit-based printed shirts and more, while actively even with the slight rise,” she said. “With the money on technology as an indulgence.” the 18-to-24 and 35-to-44 age brackets, with denim that [has] a lot of attributes of the jogger, using its signature triple-stitch logo for rest of the brands going up in price, we don’t The retailer said it is seeing the most in- sales dips of 5 and 8 percent, respectively. but still has the appearance of a jean,” he said. branding purposes. feel pressured to keep it low.” terest in its Japanese selvage denim, which Enter the “jogger” pant, better known But the bread and butter for the com- Matt Baldwin, founder, said that other Still, affordable denim reigns supreme. retails for $39.90. as the sweatpant. If women are purchasing pany remains its mainstay premium denim. than jeans, it’s his trouser categories in kha- Men are becoming a little more wary about “We’re very confident in this selvage more yoga pants to fit their active lifestyles, Realizing that for the men’s market a con- kis and peppered canvas that keep custom- buying jeans, and when they do, Cohen said, space,” Kerr said. “There’s so much inno- men are following suit, looking to these stant flow of innovation is absolutely nec- ers coming back. He also introduced tech- they are turning to commodity denim with vation and it’s real Japanese denim. We sweats as a versatile apparel item that can essary to maintain excitement and sales, nical fabrics with wicking properties to his price points of $17 to $25. According to NPD, don’t make a big deal about it, either. For take them from the gym to the office. Miguel said the company is researching new five-pocket jeans, while creating utility trou- the under-$25 jeans market has been the another brand that would be their entire “It’s a trend, but it’s something that all technology to keep customers coming back. sers with cell phone pockets, a place for tech only sector of the industry that’s growing, as marketing campaign.” denim companies are focusing on or should For instance, along with cargo denim for equipment, ear buds and pens. more upscale jeans, from $75, are taking the As for joggers, Uniqlo isn’t paying too be focusing on,” said Rebecca Duval, vice fall, Miguel said the brand would introduce “That’s how we get our customers, by of- biggest hit. much attention to the trend: “We’re not fo- president equity analyst at BlueFin Research a color program for the new season, which fering more sku’s [stockkeeping units] and “Men are saying, ‘How many more pairs do cusing on [them] because we don’t need to.” Partners. “There are two versions we’re see- ing in the market now: the uberstretchy jog- ger, which is like denim but very soft, then this denim that looks like it’s woven terry cloth and everyone is going to that. “It’s a hot trend, but it’s not going to take Tahiliani Collaborates With Savile Row Tailor over all of the other fits. It will be an impor- tant trend for the season that will keep con- by MAYU SAINI The company was founded 10 as the only Indian-born, British- own line, with bandhgalas starting sumers interested,” she said. “A lot of retail- years ago by Mahesh and Suresh driven duo employing the finest A look at about 150,000 rupees, or $2,450, ers want it or are chasing it, so much so that NEW DELHI — Indian designer Ramakrishnan, who are two of a tailors to keep up the bespoke tra- from Tarun and sherwanis from about 200,000 the mills can’t even keep up with the sheer Tarun Tahiliani has teamed with set of Indian triplets. Suresh had dition of the area. Tahiliani’s rupees, or $3,275. amount of volume they’re requesting.” Savile Row tailor Whitcomb & been an investment banker in New “Savile Row craftsmanship is collection. Noting the “big changes” in the Silver Jeans Co., founded in Winnipeg, Shaftesbury to bring a new dimen- York, and Mahesh a strategic con- itself a benchmark of how things way men dress today, Ramakrishnan Manitoba, Canada, by Michael Silver, is sion to high-end men’s wear — tra- sultant there, living a lifestyle in should be made; it’s very English; believes things are looking up for jumping on the bandwagon with the intro- ditional sherwanis and bandhga- which they searched for high-end it’s become a kind of a byword in the men’s market. “The late 1990s duction of the Joga. The new pant, which re- las updated with modern styling. suits for work, hunting through the dressing. If you look at what it is, and early 2000s were very disrup- tails for $88, is made of a poly-cotton blend “The modern man is more fit- top department stores, and looking a Savile Row garment is one that tive — everyone wanted to dress with Lycra and is indigo-dyed. It was intro- ness conscious, he wants his clothes at bespoke options. conforms to a very exacting set of like a teenager. Now people are duced for fall and aims to look like denim to fit as well,” said Tahiliani. “Also, “When we went shopping for standards, very much like a Swiss more health conscious and want but feel like a sweatpant. formalwear for men often has em- our suits, we educated ourselves watch,” said Ramakrishnan. clothes that fit them better. Men are “Our whole concept was not to try to hit broidery and with embroidery, the about the options. It started out as Outside the U.K., the broth- embracing color a lot more. The un- the customer over the head, but to subtly outfit loses a lot of the give,” he ex- a pastime, soon became a hobby ers started an outpost in Chennai derstanding that you don’t have to allow them to feel like they’re cheating,” plained, adding that the collabora- and very soon, an obsession,” said in South India from which they be a woman to wear color has really Silver said. “It’s not OK for guys to know tion will bring outfits that are essen- Mahesh Ramakrishnan. launched a Classic Bespoke line. begun to come in,” he said. that they have stretch in the fabric. It’s not tially plain, and cut so that they feel The name of their company itself Still cut in London and tailored in For this season, royal air force masculine. Yo u almost have to fool them like “a skin on your body.” is easily explained, Ramakrishnan India by specially trained work- blue will be the color of choice, he and can’t tell them it’s not real denim.” The sherwani is a longer, often told WWD. “Many of the people on men, the Classic Bespoke is about said, noting that he believes Indian Silver said the company will focus on soft- knee-length coat, and the bandhga- Savile Row name their stores after half the price of the Savile Row men are open to experimentation er, stretchier fabrics but create innovations la is a high-collar, button-down coat themselves, Henry Poole & Co., for Bespoke garment, starting out at with the color and style of their suits. so the Joga has “a real denim construction with a more Western cut — a sort of instance. But we could hardly call it about 104,000 rupees, or $1,700, “Men’s wear is still a small that isn’t too limp and too soft and stretchy.” British compromise for Indian wear. Ramakrishnan and Ramakrishnan. for a suit. The Savile Row bespoke percentage of our business,” said “Today, the term ‘casual’ has become syn- Whitcomb & Shaftesbury So we chose the names of two is made entirely in London. Tahiliani. “It’s not something onymous with activewear and comfort,” said brings to the concept an inter- streets in the vicinity.” The new line will retail at a we’ve paid enough attention to. Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst. esting international connection. On Savile Row, they stand out slight premium over Tahiliani’s But now, it is time.” {Continued on page MWX}

w07b007b.indd 7 8/6/14 6:51 PM 08062014185206 MW8 WWD THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2014 Men’s Week Men’s Fashion Week Tani Sets Expansion Plan

by SHARON EDELSON believe it will be the fastest-grow- priced from $40 to $95. Undershirts In N.Y. Gains Steam ing segment of the business.” and tanks are $60 to $145. TANI, the Hong Kong-based lux- Yarden Gagnon, creative direc- The collection has a simple, {Continued from page one} ury underwear and loungewear tor, said Tani’s customers, who are clean design with discreet logos. production costs and more. I feel like I’m halfway there, but I need to get manufacturer, is expanding its in the 25- to 30-year-old age range, “There are no hidden pouches or a little bit more there,” he said. global reach. The company, which are “sophisticated men who see panels,” Dinkes said. The event also may need a media partner like what British GQ and its operates some 300 branded stores underwear not as an accessory The brand uses European per- editor in chief, Dylan Jones, have done for London Collections: Men. Jim in China and broke into the U.S. or extension of their wardrobe. formance fabrics that deliver a Moore, American GQ’s creative director, who in the past has been vocal this year, is talking to distributors The market is oversaturated with soft hand. Tani’s collections each about the need for a men’s fashion week in New York, declined to com- in Spain, the U.K., France and brands that are all competing for target a different need and offer ment about the push for one now. But Kolb said the CFDA has reached Germany about selling its line in the same market share. That’s a solution, from Air Fitness to out to all the major men’s magazines. specialty stores. Fresh Cooling Performance “We are open to a media partner. We involved men’s magazines early “We have seen a lot of to Free Cut. on in our initial discussions. We got input from editors at GQ, Details, T interest in the product in Everyday Silk Touch, magazine and Esquire, and also the American retailers,” he said. those countries as well as the most popular collection, American men’s wear designers have been complaining for years Canada,” said president keeps wearers cool with about being on the women’s schedules during New York Fashion Week. Adam Dinkes. Tani, which MicroModal Air, a natural While the timing is less of a problem in February, since it is only a few has a young demographic water-wicking fiber. The weeks after the shows in London, Milan and Paris, the schedule is un- in Europe and the U.S., is collection includes con- workable in September. Because the men’s buying cycle begins in June in the process of adding to toured briefs, trunks and with the London runway shows, moves to Pitti Uomo in Florence, then its e-commerce platform boxer briefs in black, white, Milan and Paris before returning to New York City for the trade shows in in Spanish, French, Italian navy and heather gray with July, waiting until September to show their collections becomes a virtual and German. Tani is also seasonal colors and fashion roadblock for designers and their businesses. working on developing a prints offering variety. The “By the time you get to September, buys are put to bed,” said Billy duty-free business. Luxuriance collection is Reid. “It would be extremely helpful if we were able to get a slot in July.” The brand entered the soft with advanced knitting Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth U.S. market with the launch technologies and superfine Avenue, agreed. of Tanius.com in January. fibers such as MicroModal “July is critical from a retailer’s point of view — any later than that and Nordstrom.com began sell- and MicroModal Rainbow. there’s no chance for new designers to get into the store,” said Jennings. “If ing the line in May. Tani Imported from Austria, the you want to get press, that’s fine, but if you want to do business in a retailer, projects first-year U.S. vol- fibers are lighter and dens- it’s impossible. If we’ve been in market since June — to wait for September ume of $5 million. er, making Luxuriance du- is ludicrous. It makes no The 11-year-old com- rable and rich in color. sense for the men’s cal- pany, which is known for “With our thermal- endar. It kicks [designers] IF YOU WANT TO GET the fit, modern design and based loungewear, we see so far past the men’s cal- comfort of its men’s prod- an opportunity for the endar, the brands get zero PRESS, THAT’S FINE, ucts, still has a strong focus brand to capture the imagi- retail business.” “ on the U.S., with plans nation of the consumer Jennings said Saks’ BUT IF YOU WANT TO DO to launch innerwear and who is looking for comfort- team of buyers do not at- loungewear for women in able, luxurious loungewear tend September men’s BUSINESS IN A RETAILER, 2015. In men’s, the big push A look for travel, work and lei- fashion shows in New will be at the luxury level. from Tani. sure,” Dinkes said. York because their time to IT’S IMPOSSIBLE. IF “Virtually the entire “We examine every place orders has passed. men’s underwear market component of our product “There is no point of WE’VE BEEN IN MARKET is priced at $39 and below with why the department stores all to make sure we’re using the going to these shows for over 150 brands,” said Dinkes. look the same. There has not been finest fabrics and that the prod- our buyers,” he said. “It’s SINCE JUNE — TO WAIT “American men have been taught much innovation in the category ucts are comfortable and long- not efficient and not a that underwear is a commodity. and the customer is bored.” lasting,” Dinkes said. “Men are good use of their time.” FOR SEPTEMBER IS There has not been much inno- Tani makes four types of un- more discerning with their taste For this reason, vation in the category. We see the derwear: tailored, athletic, natu- and more knowledgeable about quintessential American LUDICROUS.” $40-plus range for men’s under- ral and innovative. The company’s fabric. Luxury underwear plays men’s wear brands like — ERIC JENNINGS, wear as uncharted territory and briefs, boxers and boxer briefs are perfectly into that.” Calvin Klein and Thom Browne have chosen to SAKS FIFTH AVENUE show in Europe. Others Man of including Michael Kors, Rag & Bone and Michael Bastian have recently opted out of September THE WEEK ‘WEIRD AL’ YANKOVIC: C New York Fashion Week for their men’s collections, choosing to hold pre- sentations of their men’s lines in July. “Look, I love a good show and I would hate to say that we’d never do a If he chooses to wear a show again,” said Bastian. “If we could figure out a men’s week happening shirt as the epicenter in July I’d be the first onboard. I have no intention of showing in Europe. I Although the Bernadette Peters of the outfit, he love New York. We’re a New York brand, we love the models here, the cast- hairstyle is his trademark, it was should choose a ing directors here. It’d be weird to show outside of New York.” never good to start with. A bit of a better-fitting option. But would a New York show entice any brands to return across the Atlantic? layered cut would help. Representatives for Klein did not respond to requests for comment, but Browne said, “I am an American designer no matter where I show. But, of course, I am supportive of a men’s fashion week in New York. I am not sure yet what I would do, but I intend to support it in one way or another.” Suspiciously, he has no Even so, timing would still be critical. With the European runway wrinkles, but he looks shows nearly blending into the New York trade shows, planning could eerily like the Mona Lisa. prove a challenge — especially for European editors and press unwilling to make the trek to New York after a fatiguing summer fashion season. A bit of a rolled-up “I think that it’s quite feasible for this to happen come next July,” sleeve would help said Tommy Fazio, president of the Project trade show. “We always talk improve the casual “I don’t care” about perfect timing, but I think we all agree that the week of the men’s This is the right length for attitude. trade shows is the best time, when Europe couture is over and before the an untucked shirt. August holiday for Europeans.” Fazio proposed that the trade shows could happen by day, and men’s shows by night. The skinny straight “Unifying the marketplace is my number-one concern,” he said. jean is fine, but it does According to Nick Sullivan, fashion director of Esquire, “I’d say that if nothing to improve we were to have a men’s week, which is necessary, my personal opinion the overall look. He would be holding it after the Fourth of July. I know that the earlier you Although his album was a should explore a can do it, the better. Some people say maybe before London but I think dressier pant in the it’s too early then. But in either case, there is immense interest world- same silhouette. S wide regarding American fashion brands, and international buyers and surprise hit, he continues

editors would be very supportive.” IMAGE Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman’s, said a to fail on the fashion front men’s fashion week in New York would create more excitement than ever Although he wore because of the international interest in American men’s wear designers. — although, thankfully, a very similar pair of boots for his hit

“People have admired the tradition of American sportswear for years DEMANO/GETTY as it’s an important and vital part of the men’s wear fashion landscape,” he’s retired his renowned “Fat” in 1988, a pair he said. “New York is the fashion capital of fashion and the world. of black sneakers Americans invented the entire sportswear category. That being said, Hawaiian shirts. would be more 2014. ROMMEL BY American men’s wear is only growing and there’s been so much buzz in-

ternationally about what’s going on here.” PHOTO