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A Visit to Bolgheri and the Wonderful Wines of Ornellaia and Sassicaia

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A Visit to Bolgheri and the Wonderful Wines of Ornellaia and Sassicaia Vinum Fine Wine List • July-August 2014 A Visit to Bolgheri and the Wonderful WinesBy of Paul LiversedgeOrnellaia MW and Sassicaia Bolgheri is currently one of the most exciting wine producing areas of Italy - and indeed the world. The region first came to the public’s attention as recently as 1968 with the launch vintage of Nicolas Incisa della Rocchetta’s Sassicaia. However, it was only when Decanter magazine voted Sassicaia 1978 their top wine in a blind tasting of 38 different Cabernet producers across the world, and then Robert Parker awarded Sassicaia 1985 100 points, that the region’s huge quality potential began to be properly appreciated. Bolgheri is a small and beautiful DOC in the South West of Tuscany covering 1220 hectares of vines, most of which grow on hillsides about 5 kms inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The scenery and views over the Mediterranean from these hillside vineyards is literally breathtaking, and the climate in this small area has to be one of the most perfect for grape growing in all Europe. It is for this reason that Bolgheri is often referred to as the “California of Europe.” The area is a little sunnier and warmer than the rest of Tuscany - Brunello di Montalcino and the Chianti region – but with a constant refreshing breeze which cools the vines on the hillsides. The best wines from Bolgheri are red and are made principally from the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot grapes; this is NOT top Sangiovese country. Because of the long sunshine hours the red grapes have no problems in ripening to perfection each year and produce wines with silky smooth, perfectly ripe tannins and very concentrated fruit flavours. The grapes grown further up the slopes where the soil is poorer and more clay-based tend to produce the better wines. Currently 50 wineries produce wine in the region, but this figure is increasing rapidly as more and more producers see the potential in the area. Angelo Gaia for example started his Ca Marcanda winery here in 1996 and is now making some excellent quality reds. Vineyard land here is some of the most expensive in all Italy however, costing on average 400,000 euros per hectare. Unfortunately wine prices from this area are as a result never cheap! Of all the exciting producers in this area, none are more famous than Tenuta dell’Ornellaia and Tenuta San Guido. A visit to each is fascinating as they are both so different from one another. Ornellaia seems like the “Mouton Rothschild” of Bolgheri with its picturesque visitor centre, different artist-painted labels each vintage, and state of the art winery. Tenuta San Guido in contrast appears more modest and unassuming – it is considerably smaller and its winery seems more practical and functional than aesthetically pleasing. Both sets of wines were tasted on a visit to the region in May 2014; both were extremely impressive. TENUTA DELL’ORNELLAIA Le Volte 2012 This is the “3rd wine” of Ornellaia, made from 50% Merlot, 30% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon in the southern part of Bolgheri. 2012 was a relatively hot vintage so the harvest needed to be carried out as quickly as possible to avoid picking overripe fruit and retain the wine’s freshness. The wine does have quite sweet, very ripe fruit flavours but is well balanced by moderate tannins and some fresh acidity. A full, New World style red. Le Serre Nuove 2011 Ornellaia’s second wine is usually made from predominantly Merlot and is intended to show Ornellaia’s style but at a cheaper price. 2011 was an excellent vintage in Bolgheri and this wine has 57% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot and 12% Cabernet Franc. It has dense, concentrated fruit, firm supporting oak tannins and good complexity. Long, intense finish; very good. PAGE 1 Vinum Fine Wine List • July-August 2014 Ornellaia 2011 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot. Dark, silky smooth fruit with fresh acidity. Medium to full bodied, wiith firm, very fine tannins. Long, gentle, classy oak-imbued finish. Very fine, with excellent ageing potential over the next 10-15 years. Ornellaia 2010 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. 2010 was quite a wet season with over twice the usual annual rainfall. Ornellaia always has a base of 50-60% Cabernet Sauvignon, but in this vintage there was more Merlot and less Cabernet Franc than usual because the Cabernet Franc did not ripen well enough. With its rich, plush fruit and ripe tannins, full body and some new oak flavours this at first appears to be made in a fairly modern, New World style. But underneath there is a freshness of acidity and some classic tobacco flavours from old oak cask which makes it irrefutably Italian. Long finish. Ornellaia 2009 Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ripe, open cassis fruit on nose and palate. Smooth tannins and medium to full bodied, with quite vibrant underlying acidity to give freshness. Good but not as good as the 2011. Ornellaia 2006 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. 2006 was a warm and very dry vintage. This has intense, dark fruit and licorice flavours, medium to full body but always a pleasing freshness. It is very structured and firm still and needs more time to open out and reveal its full potential. Drink over next 10-15 years. Masseto 2006 100% Merlot from a single vineyard on the “Masseto hill”, which has soils which are rich in clays. The vineyard is split into 3 and the grapes harvested and vinified separately from each section. Masseto “alto” has sandy clay soils which provide elegance and finesse; “central” has very rich clay soil giving the wine power and body – its heart and soul; and “junior” contributes elegance and softness to the final blend. 2006 was on paper a horrendous growing season – at times too hot, at others too wet, and generally extremely dry. Yet the resulting wine is one of the best the estate has produced! It is rich, full bodied and fairly powerful, with delicious dark cherry and cassis fruit. Firm tannins and remarkably fresh acidity are in perfect balance and will ensure this wine a long long life; at least another 20 years. TENUTA SAN GUIDO Le Difese 2012 Made from 30% Sangiovese and 70% Cabernet Franc. Very gentle, elegant, unpretentious style. Well integrated fruit and oak. An intelligent, perfectly balance wine but with an easy manner – Nicola Incisa della Rocchetta describes it as his everyday lunch wine; lucky man! Guidalberto 2012 40% Merlot, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon. Firmer tannins and bigger in structure. Medium to full bodied with fine oaky vanilla tannins. Still very young – needs time for its tannins to integrate and soften a little. Sassicaia 2011 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc Beautifully ripe, elegant fruit and very fine tannins. Perfectly integrated oak. Very fine, amazingly elegant, drinking really well already but has a long life ahead – 15-20 years. Very long, vibrant finish; the flavours continue to grow in the mouth long after the wine has been swallowed; I could not spit this out! A supreme, classic, perfect Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated red; outperforms any of Bordeaux’s 1er Grands Crus Classés from the same vintage. PAGE 2.
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