Award-Winning Cheesemakers Share Their Approach to Craft
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Volume 31 July 29, 2011 Number 27 INSIDE Award-winning cheesemakers F Guest column: ‘More share their approach to craft than one reason specialty cheese is special.’ By Alyssa Sowerwine ers as the ultimate “judge” of tori Reserve Pastorale Blend ers who will feature or highlight For details, see page 4. their products, one of the key — a Spanish-inspired cheese our product line or highlight a MADISON, Wis. — From ways to make products stand out made with a blend of sheep and particular cheese.” F Ecolab enters merger goat cheeses to aged cheeses is by winning contest awards. cow’s milks, dusted with sweet, Cypress Grove’s Purple agreement with Nalco. to soft cheeses, it’s hard to “The awards naturally bring smoked paprika — is most sig- Haze, a fresh Chevre sprinkled For details, see page 7. pinpoint the next big thing in an awareness to those who nificant because it is a cheese with lavender buds and wild the contest world. But several follow them, and to be able to he had a very clear vision of harvested fennel pollen, re- F ACS to bring back award-winning cheesemakers, share with customers that the when it was developed and was cently won both a Gold Medal Academy of Cheese. many of whom have won mul- cheese has been judged best a conglomeration of several and Best of Division at the For details, see page 14. tiple accolades, can pinpoint a by its peers is priceless,” says cheeses he had experienced recently-held California State few aspects of their approach Mike Matucheski, a Wisconsin when traveling in Europe. Fair competition. The com- F Deville Technologies to cheesemaking that have led Master Cheesemaker certified “I always knew it was going pany also was awarded gold looks to future with new them to industry recognition in Asiago and Parmesan with to be a fantastic cheese, and medals for Humboldt Fog, plant, client center. and success. Sartori Co., Plymouth, Wis. we have a great group here an “American Original” soft, For details, see page 28. While many cheesemakers Matucheski, along with that can always be counted on surface-ripened cheese with look to consumers and custom- the help of other Sartori team to make a winner,” he says. “It’s a creamy texture and subtle, members, has grown the com- so humbling when others see it tangy flavor, and Truffle Tremor, pany product line and received the same way.” a velvety marriage of smooth numerous international and Mary Keehn, owner of Cy- goat’s milk and earthy truffles Reduced-sugar formulations U.S. awards. press Grove Chevre, Arcata, in a soft-ripened cheese. SarVecchio Parmesan from Calif., notes the company owes Cypress Grove cheeses of flavored milk enter schools Sartori’s Reserve line has won “our very existence” to cheese- also have been recognized in more than 20 awards over the mongers who keep current on the 2011 U.S. Championship By Rena Archwamety last five years, including first happenings in the cheese world Cheese Contest, the 2010 runner-up at this year’s U.S. and have been encouraging American Cheese Society MADISON, Wis. — Focus on improving nutrition and curbing child- Championship Cheese Contest, customers to try Cypress Grove competition and the 2010 World hood obesity has prompted many school districts across the United grand champion at the same cheeses. Championship Cheese Contest, States to revamp their food offerings, and in many schools, chocolate contest in 2009, and grand “More than ever, consum- among others. and other flavored milks have landed on the chopping block. champion at the 2010 World ers in the specialty food world Maxx Sherman, director of Earlier this month, the Massachusetts Public Health Council ap- Dairy Expo. It also has taken are looking for third-party national sales for Marin French proved new school nutrition standards that include the elimination of several medals at the Wisconsin endorsement when considering Cheese Co., Petaluma, Calif., sugary beverages. The new regulations will go into effect August 2012, State Fair, American Cheese a cheese,” Keehn says. “With says winning awards, par- and after August 2013, no flavored milk that contains more sugar than Society and World Cheese the proliferating of internet ticularly international awards, plain lowfat or nonfat milk will be allowed. Awards contests. searches, bloggers and social impresses upon the public that The Massachusetts Department of Public Health says the goal of Matucheski notes that of the media impacting consumer American cheeses have ma- these regulations is to ensure that public schools offer students food awards won over the years, the research and buying behaviors, tured to the point that they can and beverage choices that enhance learning, contribute to healthy Reserve line is one he is most winning an award catches the compete worldwide, noting the growth and development and cultivate lifelong healthy eating behaviors. proud of, adding that the Sar- attention of online or print writ- Turn to ACCOLADES, page 27 a “This has to be a priority for the Commonwealth, because one-third of Massachusetts children are obese or overweight,” the department adds. “This puts them on a trajectory for numerous chronic conditions in adulthood that we know are preventable, including diabetes and heart disease.” Debates continue in states U.S. cheese stocks Last month, the Los Angeles Board of Education voted 5-2 to stop hold steady from buying chocolate- and strawberry-flavored milk in its 2011-2012 school that allow raw milk sales previous month year dairy contract. As a result, flavored milk no longer will be offered By Rena Archwamety in the Los Angeles Unified School District (LAUSD) when the schools WASHINGTON — Ameri- open in August and September. WASHINGTON — Proposals to legalize sales of raw milk to can cheese in cold storage “Encouraging healthy choices will lead to healthier students,” says as of June 30 totaled 619.0 LAUSD Superintendent John Deasy. “Eliminating chocolate milk and consumers have been introduced in a number of states in recent years, but little has changed among states that prohibit these million pounds, down less strawberry milk is good for all youngsters, and is especially beneficial than 1 percent from May during an era of rampant childhood obesity.” raw milk sales, according to a survey recently conducted by the National Association of State Departments of Agriculture 31’s 621.8 million pounds Other California school districts, including Berkeley, Compton and and down 1 percent from San Diego, already have enacted flavored milk bans, as have schools (NASDA). The survey, conducted in cooperation with the National the 627.1 million pounds in in Minneapolis and Washington D.C. cold storage at the end of Many in the dairy industry have anticipated this trend and the Association of Dairy Regulatory Officials (NADRO), gathered current information about the regulation and sale of raw milk June 2010, according to data need to address sugar and calories in flavored milk. In 2006, Dairy released recently by USDA’s Management Inc. (DMI), in collaboration with the Milk Processors in the United States. It is NASDA’s third collection of this data since 2004. National Agricultural Statis- Education Program (MilkPEP), brought together industry members tics Service (NASS). Turn to SCHOOLS, page 18 a In 2011, 50 states participated in the survey and 30 states Turn to RAW, page 26 a Turn to STOCKS, page 25 a Reprinted with permission from the July 29, 2011, edition of CHEESE MARKET NEWS® © Copyright 2011 Quarne Publishing LLC; PH: (509) 962-4026; www.cheesemarketnews.com 2 CHEESE MARKET NEWS® — July 29, 2011 MARKET INDICATORS Chicago Mercantile Exchange CHEESE FUTURES* for the week ended July 28, 2011 Cash prices for the week ended July 29, 2011 (Listings for each day by month, settling price and open interest) Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Fri., July 22 Mon., July 25 Tues., July 26 Wed., July 27 Thurs., July 28 July 25 July 26 July 27 July 28 July 29 JUL11 2.112 245 2.112 245 2.112 245 2.112 245 2.112 245 Cheese Barrels AUG11 2.096 323 2.096 323 2.096 325 2.096 325 2.096 325 SEP11 2.000 288 2.006 287 2.006 287 2.017 287 2.040 297 Price $2.1250 $2.1250 $2.1300 $2.1300 $2.1300 OCT11 1.926 322 1.926 322 1.926 322 1.938 303 1.938 303 Change NC NC +1/2 NC NC NOV11 1.855 338 1.855 343 1.855 343 1.855 343 1.855 343 DEC11 1.801 308 1.797 308 1.782 308 1.782 308 1.782 308 Cheese 40-lb. block JAN12 1.742 121 1.742 121 1.742 121 1.742 121 1.742 136 Price $2.1550 $2.1550 $2.1550 $2.1550 $2.1550 FEB12 1.732 180 1.732 180 1.732 180 1.732 180 1.732 195 Change MAR12 1.720 178 1.720 178 1.720 178 1.720 178 1.745 195 NC NC NC NC NC APR12 1.719 81 1.719 81 1.719 81 1.719 81 1.719 96 Weekly average (July 25-29): Barrels: $2.1280(+.0115); 40-lb. Blocks: $2.1550(+.0150). MAY12 1.715 97 1.715 97 1.715 97 1.715 97 1.715 112 JUN12 1.710 86 1.710 86 1.710 86 1.710 86 1.710 101 Weekly ave. one year ago (July 26-30, 2010): Barrels: $1.5585; 40-lb. Blocks: $1.6025. JUL12 1.718 43 1.718 43 1.718 43 1.718 43 1.718 43 Total Contracts Traded/ Extra Grade NDM Open Interest 8/2,737 7/2,741 2/2,743 52/2,724 109/2,826 $1.6100 $1.6100 $1.6100 $1.6100 $1.6100 Price Daily market prices are available by visiting CME’s online statistics sites at http://www.cmegroup.com.