Terroir in Tibet
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TERROIR IN TIBET: WINE PRODUCTION, IDENTITY, AND LANDSCAPE CHANGE IN SHANGRI-LA, CHINA A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE DIVISION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAIʻI AT MĀNOA IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN ANTHROPOLOGY MAY 2017 By Brendan A. Galipeau Dissertation Committee: Jonathan Padwe, Chairperson Alex Golub Ty P. Kawika Tengan Ben Hillman Hong Jiang Keywords: China, Tibet, wine, landscape, identity ©Copyright by Brendan A. Galipeau May 2017 All Rights Reserved ii For Ma Yi, My loving companion in life iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS There are so many people without whom this dissertation would not have been possible and who contributed to its creation. First and foremost I must thank all the many people of Deqin, Shangri-La, and Diqing for allowing me to take part in and tell the story of their lives. The number of people with whom I interacted in the field is extensive, but there are a few who particularly deserve recognition for their contributions to this work. Wu Gongdi, Hong Xing, and their entire family deserve special recognition to hosting me for more than one year in total, introducing me to their entire community, and intimately sharing their daily lives and wine with me. Others include Ani Dom, Li Weihong, Zhouma, my host in Bu Village, Amu and Aya who hosted me Adong, and last but certainly not least my longtime village host and informant in Meilishi, Adong. This dissertation would never have been completed without the support and guidance of many professors and advisors. Thank you all for your advice, patience, and encouragement. I must pay special recognition to my advisor and committee chair Jonathan Padwe for bearing with me though what seems like hundreds of grant applications, recommendation letter requests, and manuscript drafts. Your attention to fine details in writing, argument framing, and theoretical chops in environmental anthropology and anthropological theory have been invaluable. I hope to have done you proud in producing this dissertation. Thank you for all of your guidance and friendship these past five years. Thank you also to my other committee members. Alex Golub was a constant source of support during comprehensive exams, always keeping me on my toes and keeping me abreast of new scholarship and readings of interests, reading and discussing them together with me. Since my first semester at the University of Hawaiʻi, Ty Tengan has made me greatly aware of my role as an ethnographer and the power, responsibility, and importance anthropology holds today for indigenous peoples. Hong Jiang’s knowledge of environmental issues in China and Chinese culture were always helpful along with her support and encouragement in locating my own voice and path in research. I am also incredibly thankful to Ben Hillman as one of the original and most knowledgeable scholars working in China’s Shangri-La for agreeing to advise me as a member of my committee and for contributing his wealth of knowledge and ideas about the region and its people. Outsisde of my committee, I also thank Eugene N. Anderson, a founding father of environmental anthropology iv in China for providing many fruitful and enlightening comments on an earlier complete draft of this dissertation. My time in China would also not have been possible without the friendship and assistance of many. I once again thank Chris and Tingting Carpenter, and Thanit Kunkhajornphan for first introducing me to Yunnan Province many years ago, the three of you changed my life forever. My friend and colleague Sun Fei (Apu) provided incredible field assistance on multiple occasions between 2013 and 2016, and I was fortunate to collaborate with him to publish a photo essay on winemaking in Cizhong. In China, many other academic colleagues and friends were also helpful. From 2014 to 2015, I was fortunate to be hosted as a visiting student by Professor Shen Haimei of The Yunnan Ethnological Research Institute at Yunnan Minzu University who also helped with my visa and research permits. In 2016, Professor Liu Zhiyang of the Department of Anthropology at Sun Yat-sen University provided gracious support for my fieldwork as well as having me provide a lecture there for graduate students. During my time in Kunming in 2014 and 2015 when I was unfunded, I am indebted to Brian Eyler for the opportunity to teach a class on contemporary Chinse society for undergraduate students abroad. I thank Brian immensely for being a great teaching mentor, colleague, and friend along with his wife Vicky. My wife and I both enjoyed all of our times together with them. I also thank Dan Smyer Yu for organizing and inviting me to join an incredibly stimulating international book workshop at his Center for Trans-Himalayan Studies at Yunnan Minzu University in July 2015. I thank both Dan and Jean Michaud for all of their guidance and assistance in the book chapter that has emerged from that workshop and portions of which appear in this dissertation. In Shangri-La, my home away from home for many years, I had the pleasure of sharing in lively discussions and friendships with many people including but not limited to the Richmond Family, Sonny Gyalzur, Jason Lees, Joel Simbrow, Ashu, Gonpo, Tsebho, Adong, Neil and Wendy Kirkland, Hannah Klepeis, and Jop and Ells. Guillaume de Penfentenyo, Qi Lian, Constantin de Slizewicz and Frank at Flying Tigers Café were also always wonderful hosts and provided a great venue for my wine tasting event. Portions of my research also took place in archives in Paris France and Martigny Switzerland, and I must thank the archivists at each location for providing me with great support v and hosting me graciously. In Paris, at the Missions Étrangères de Paris, Lucie Perrault and Ghislaine Olive provided invaluable assistance in helping me arrange my visit and locating various materials. In Martigny, archivist Cannon Jean-Pierre Voutaz of the Congrégation du- Grand-Saint Bernard warmly welcomed me for ten days and provided me with open access to materials and his invaluable assistance, uncovering many treasures for my research. I thank Jean-Pierre and all of his colleagues for their hospitality and the honor of joining them for lunch each day while conducting my research, even having the opportunity to experience the annual Feast of Saint Bernard. I have benefitted from the support and friendship of many during my studies and writing at the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa, often discussing and decompressing graduate school over many glasses of beer. I in particular wish to thank Eric Cunningham, Adam Lauer, Brian Lane, Sovatha Ann, Phoebe France, Zakea Boeger, Maura Stephens, Piphal Heng, and Michelle Daigle. Thanks especially to Sovatha for flying to Kunming to be a best man in my wedding. In addition to these classmates in anthropology in Hawaiʻi, I have also greatly benefitted from being part of a wonderful worldwide group and contingent of young anthropologists and geographers working in contemporary China, in particular on environmental issues and topics. Colleagues who have in particular contributed to this work in various ways include Adam Liebman, Bo Wang (with whom I lived in Shangri-La conducting fieldwork together), Loretta Lou, Xiaoyue Li, Karlis Rokpelnis, Alex Nickley, Jesse Rodenbiker, Michael Long, Alessandro Rippa, and Andrea Pia. From the above group, it is necessary to single out Eddie Schmitt as one of my closest friends and colleagues for many years, constantly providing me with new ideas and literature as we exchange ideas together over email. Thank you also for flying to Kunming for my wedding while we were both “in the field” and always being such a gracious host whenever Ma Yi and I were in Chengdu or Hong Kong. Thank you for being a wonderful friend and colleague. When we next meet again we will be able to celebrate both having completed this PhD journey. A second colleague I must single out and whom I must thank for originally introducing me to Eddie is my master’s advisor Bryan Tilt. I continue to value your friendship and advice as I create my path as a scholar of contemporary China, anthropology, and the environment. I hope we may continue to work together in the future in locating xiaokang. vi During my second stint of fieldwork and archival research in 2016, I greatly benefitted from funding provided by the Confucius China Studies Joint PhD Research Fellowship Program of the Confucius Institute (Hanban) in Beijing, and facilitated by the Institute for International Education in New York. I especially thank Wang Xinsheng of Hanban for providing much in the way of invaluable logistical support throughout my research, and Professor Liu Zhiyang and the Department of Anthropology at Sun Yat-sen University in Guangzhou for agreeing to facilitate as my in country hosts during my fellowship period. Last but certainly not least, I must thank my family and loved ones. My parents Steve and Tia Galipeau have been supportive and a constant source of love and care for my entire life in more ways that I can ever say, without them this dissertation would have never been possible. I cannot thank them enough and know that much of my curiosity with nature, culture, people, and the world comes from them. Thanks also to my brother Owen for always being there even though we do not get to talk as often as we should. Over the past six years, my wife Ma Yi has become a continual source love, inspiration, support, and encouragement. Despite all of her own struggles and difficulties, she has been a rock of faith and belief in me whenever it seemed as though this project might be tanking due to lack of funding or other reasons.