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December 2013 COMPLIMENTARY COPY ENTARY COPY READ ME TAKE ME COMPLIMENTARY COPY COMPLIMENTARY COPY COMPLIMENT MY LIFE AS... A Cycling Masseur's Story PAGE 24 VIETNAM DECEMBER 2013 ISTANBUL The Border City Bridging Asia and Europe PAGE 66 BEAN TO BAR Travel to Where Vietnamese Chocolate is Made PAGE 48 SAIGON'S SHOPPING SECRETS THE CITY'S BEST BOUTIQUES 1 2 3 CO M PLIME E NTA N R TAR Y C O PRE Y Y AD C O P Y COMP ME COMPLIMENTARY COPY L I M TAK EN T ARY E COP ME Y COMP L IM E N T MY LIFE AS... A Cycling Masseur's Story PAGE 24 VIETNAM DECEMBER 2013 ISTANBUL The Border City Bridging Asia and Europe PAGE 66 BEAN TO BAR Travel to Where Vietnamese Chocolate is Made EVERYWHERE YOU GO PAGE 48 Director XUAN TRAN SAIGON'S SHOPPING Business Consultant ROBERT STOCKDILL SECRETS [email protected] The CiT y's Bes T BouT iques 093 253 4090 1 Managing Editor CHRISTINE VAN [email protected] This Month’s Cover Image: Adam Robert Young Deputy Editor JAMES PHAM Model: Jenny Lai [email protected] Bag: Jodi bag by Anupa Outfit & Accessories: Banana Republic Researcher GEORGE BOND Stylist: Phi Phi [email protected] Make Up: Kent Nguyen Venue: Crescent Mall, D7 Special thanks to Crescent Mall for Creative Director PAOLO MALING letting us shoot this month's cover [email protected] Graphic Artist HIEN NGUYEN [email protected] Staff Photographers LOC NGUYEN NGOC TRAN Publication Manager HANG PHAN [email protected] 097 430 9710 For advertising please contact: JULIAN AJELLO [email protected] 093 700 9910 NGAN NGUYEN [email protected] 090 279 7951 ƠI VIỆT NAM JIMMY VAN DER KLOET NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN [email protected] Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn 094 877 9219 Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng TRAN HA Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: [email protected] Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd 094 612 0026 231-233 Lê Thánh Tôn, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1 THU VU (HANOI) [email protected] In lần thứ mười, số lượng 6000 cuốn, 090 624 9700 khổ 21cm x 29,7cm Đăng ký KHXB: 1110-2013/CXB/4 -52/TN QĐXB số: 366/QĐ-TN/CN General Chế bản và in tại nhà in Lê Quang Lộc [email protected] Nộp lưu chiểu tháng 9/2013 Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com 4 5 Contents TRAVEL & LEISURE ISTANBUL (NOT CONSTANTINOPLE) A love letter to one of the world's most beautiful cities FEAT66URES P10 DATEBOOK P26 FIRMLY PLANTED P50 STUFFED FOR CHRISTMAS & With these events, you'll never have to Giving new life to disadvantaged kids and tired bored again COUNT DOWN TO NEW YEARS urban spaces Our guide on where to find the best holiday merrymaking P16 TROI OI P28 ARTISTS IN RESIDENCE See why public toilets, airplane calls and the "golden One housewife's quest to bring international artists population structure" made our noteworthy numbers P80 THE WORKOUT COUPLE to Vietnam A match made in the gym this month P90 THE BUSINESS OF TENNIS P18 THE BULLETIN P48 BEAN TO BAR In search of the next great Asian star Checking out the latest promotions and openings The delectable story behind Vietnamese chocolate P24 MY LIFE AS... One of the city's ubiquitous yet mysterious mobile masseurs 6 COVER STORY SAIGON’s SHOPPING SECRETS Oi rounds up the hottest homegrown boutiques for your shopping pleasure 32 7 WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS Oi reviews authentic Japanese food from Ebisu and the recently opened Le Paris for some French fare 44 COLUMNS P31 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P73 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM P92 LEGAL EASE No soy sauce after surgery, and confinement after Tapping into your subconscious for inspiration Know before you rent giving birth? P82 THE SYLLABUS P93 FOUND 404 P70 LIFE'S A TRIP The beauty of growing up bilingual Groceries and beer without leaving the house Some of the year's best and worst travel stories P83 HIGHER LEARNING P95 MONEY TALKS P72 ESSENTIALS Educating children with special needs The history of debt Travel gear to better your journey 8 ISSUE NO. 10 Editor’s DECEMBER 2013 Note Shop Till You Drop THIS SURELY HAS been an exciting year for balcony that I religiously check on daily), I'd all of us at Oi, marking our very first holiday give this article a green thumbs up. season together. It seems I just ate turkey We received tremendous feedback on (for American Thanksgiving) and it's already our article on Mimi, the transgender funeral time for another blowout meal. Last year, I performer. So many of you have written spent Christmas with great friends and great in and commented on this gritty, somber, food (that included a non-traditional seafood touching piece. This month, NPD Khanh does BBQ) and hope to do it all again this year. I it again with My Life as... a Cycling Masseur. was just at the supermarket yesterday and Seeing these men on the city's streets and heard Winter Wonderland playing. While hearing rumors that they didn't just give the weather certainly isn't Christmassy, the massages, I've always wondered what their sentiment is appreciated! Something about life story was and how they got into the the holidays puts us all in a wonderfully business. Whether it's a legitimate one or not cheerful mood. will be up to you to decide. This time of year, for many, means Finally, James Pham writes an impassioned shopping for friends here or family back love letter to Istanbul, a place that's always home. I remember as a teenager, my friends been on my travel bucket list because of and I getting together every weekend to hit its fascinating architecture and history. the malls. My young, materialistic self would More ‘modern’ places like Seoul, Tokyo and beg my sisters to drive me to these endless Singapore simply don't connect with me. outlet malls in neighboring Pennsylvania and Give me a city with cobblestone streets and New Jersey to do some tax-free shopping, towering spires that pierce the sky any day. scooping up wintertime brand name clothes Closer to home, James explores the story for cheap. I didn't care that they were last of chocolate practically in our backyard, in season's fashions or even that they were the province of Ben Tre. One of my favorite irregular items! Now that I'm more budget post-Christmas turkey and stuffing drinks conscious and interested in style and value are mochaccinos, the perfect blend of dark rather than just brands, I pretty much only chocolate and espresso, both homegrown shop at thrift and secondhand shops, in right here in Vietnam. search of that unique piece amongst a heap of Sometimes it's hard being away from other items. family and friends back home during the Shopping for an increasing number, holidays. But however you celebrate this though, means logging on to a computer. I time of year, may you share some wonderful know my niece and nephew in NYC already times surrounded by the people you love. have their Amazon Wish Lists up consisting From all of us at Oi, a very merry Christmas of all things princess or Pokemon. But there's and an even happier New Year! Email me something visceral about going into a shop with your thoughts and stories at christine@ filled with wonderful things that you can oivietnam.com or leave comments on our see and touch. This month, our writers and website or Facebook page. photographers have scoured the city for We'll see you back here in 2014 to explore unique, innovative and even quirky gifts for more of this great country we call home. everyone on your list. Inside the magazine, you'll also find Lolita Guevarra's fascinating article on the Green Youth Collective, an initiative that's part social work, part urban landscaping, where science meets craft. As an avid gardener CHRISTINE VAN (testified to by the rows of plants on my Managing Editor 9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events DECEMBER 5 - 8 What: Food Festival DECEMBER 5 Where: September 23 Park, Pham Ngu Lao, D1 About: A four-day festival displaying foods and specialties from 20 What: Paint like Van Gogh countries and territories worldwide. Performances and events will Where: VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, D2; 6:30pm - 9pm demonstrate cooking methods and traditional art and music from About: Travel back to the 19th century and feel like Vincent Van other countries. A contest to judge wine and the art of bartending Gogh. His use of color, creative portraits and letters have made him will also be held along with a scheduled program on teaching about one of the most famous painters in history. While enjoying a wine food. The festival, which has been held eight times, is organized by tasting, you will be briefly introduced to Van Gogh’s techniques. After the city's Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism and HCMC's that, the canvas is yours to get creative. Tourism Association. Expect 120 booths from the city’s 60 restaurants Contact: Visit www.vin-space.com or call 090 772 9846 for more info and hotels. DECEMBER 6 What: Black Rebel Motorcycle Club Live Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 About: Following on from its recent show with UK headliners The Cribs, Loud Minority has pulled off another major coup, which will see American rock & roll legends, Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, ride into Saigon for an intimate show.
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