MAY, 1916. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR Speedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.

All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From Syd- glorious river scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry, rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip fron- wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular. Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. L. Spurway.

16)1 • • • • atl • •• 41. NIAIMILN.•,412 i7 E ♦ • t4 ' R 04 0 K 4 . l b-P arilr ffiagattur . CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

il VOLUME XI. NUMBER 5. E 11 CONTENTS FOR MAY, 1916. E E Our Art Gallery. 1 The Log of the Snark (continued) — - - - - 417 By Charmian Kittredge London • 1 Around the Island of Hawaii 423 By Dean H. Lake . • Nagasaki Through a Porthole - 429 i • By Magruder Gordon Maury 4 Growing Cocoanuts in the Philippines 435 i By 0. W. Barrett i • Haleakala and the Ditch Country - 441 E By Prof. A. J. Wurts 4 . Cruising Along Australia's West Coast (continued) - 447 1 From the Editor's Diary Taranaki, the Wonderful Land 451 i 1 By W. G. Wilson g— Training the Hula Dancer 457 • By N. B. Emerson '-• E 465 • gl Birds of Australia i By J. J. Leach, D. Sc. • E Picturesque Puget Sound ----- - - - - 471 I • By R. H. Mattison i • i . The Paradise of the Pacific 475 i By Ronald Buchanan • la . A Pan-American Pact - - - - - ----- 479 f • By W. E. Dunn • Progress of Papua - - - ----- - - 483 *. . By Beatrice Grimshaw i .7) E. Athletics in China 487 .5_ By Arthur Shoemaker :2 Fishing in Old Hawaii ----- - - - - - 491 i Compiled by M. G. Maury The Pan-Pacific Luau in Honolulu 495 . Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific.

• 011e II: ib-farifir i agazitte Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. t Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25e. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffiae. i Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given --, — 1 irt■TrellmitrAl• Vi • • fricirear•NlailW ii • MA0411riectirc- ■ 1 - tr,4-Nbilltr ii oil • ritarearidwIrreartarinirivirriiir7tilriefii + + +

The above is the picture of an avenue of Royal Palms in Honolulu. It is but forty years since these palms were introduced into Hawaii, yet many ornamental avenues of the Royal Palm are to be seen in Honolulu, and Queensland in Australia has also adopted this beautiful tree for parking purposes. •:*

Twenty years ago an avenue of iron-wood trees was planted in Kapio- lani Park in Honolulu. These were brought from Australia, and form today a beautiful avenue. These trees have also been planted successfully on some of the barren mountain ridges which they are re-clothing with verdure. While the temperature of Hawaii is not tropical, a truly tropical foliage is obtained by close planting, as may be seen by this picture in one of the by-paths of Jlinahau Park at Waikiki, which was planted as a tropical park for the late Princess Kaiulani. •:*

This is the picture of a crater lake almost at the summit of the island of Upolu, the principal island of the Samoan group. The coconut palm at this elevation of several thousand feet does not bear fruit. Around the crater lake is a path for tourists. ••

The most valuable tree in Hawaii is the algaroba, brought from the Holy Land, where it is famed as the tree from the husks of which the Prodigal Son fed with the swine. Its pods, ground to meal, make the ideal cattle and hog food of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaii has borrowed from the whole world for her wonderful foliage. Queensland claims as her own the beautiful red and purple bougan- villea, yet it grows everywhere most profusely in Honolulu, as does the date palm, which has reached Hawaii from Arabia by way of Southern California. This it not a bit of Japan, but is a part of a Japan ',ark in Hono- lulu, which is being beautified by the children o; ..pan esident of Hawaii. Soon it is expected that this will become a r 2: bit of Dai Nippon, transplanted to the Cross-Roads of the Pacific.

No one visits 'n Samoa without journeying a few miles up-country to the slidi rocs of Papaseea. Here the Samoan maids teach the tourists It to slide down the face of a waterfall which gives a delightful drop of forty feet into a cooling pool below. The aboriginal in Australia is far more rare than is the real Indian in America, and the above picture is one of children of the third generation of Anglo-Saxon descent who have been born in the Southern Continent, and will grow to be real Australians. In Arizona and in New Mexico and in Southern California today, the American Indian may be seen in as almost a primitive a state as when Columbus discovered America. The children grow up as didthei, ancestors, and are as happy as they are naked. The Maori maid speaks almost the same language as does the woman of Hawaii, and she too, is just as fond of the robes that are made of woven rushes upon which are sewn the feathers of native birds. Both the Hawaiian and the New Zealander belong to the Polynesian family. ft is away from the towns, in the country districts of Hawaii, that the primitive Hawaiian is seen at her best, or at least in her most primitive state. There, she smokes her pipe and wears her moo moo without thought of the fashion's changes. The Hawaiian maid with a dash of Portuguese or Anglo-Saxon blood in her veins, is apt to grow into a ravishingly attractive creature, as the above picture fairly indicates, for the maid in question is part Hawaiian and part Spanish, with perhaps a bit of Anglo-Saxon thrown in for full measure. These two ladies of Siberia were born in Russia, but today they live in the Hawaiian Islands, and their husbands have become American citizens, while the entire family speaks excellent English, and the children attend the public schools with a score of races. In Fiji and the New Hebrides, the art of making pottery in its most primitive form spread from far-off Java. Probably the representa- tives of the races carrying this art to the Pacific islands died out and left the art as a heritage 4o the Negroid survivors. Zi-Vartitr flittgazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUAIE FORD

1111111111111 III III I I II II II II I I I VoL. XI. MAY, 1916. No. 5.

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In Southern Waters.

(THE LOG OF THE SNARK) Jack London, Skipper

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON *

Aboard the Snark, Fiji to New Hebrides, it was literally a new adventure. Jack Saturday, June 6, 1908. was captain, Henry (who had had deser- tion in his eye "before Suva") was now OU might think that Snark depart- mate, and the newest thing aboard was the ures had lost their novelty by this spirit that sailed with us. It was "After Y time. Not so. Our departure this Suva," and Jack was happy. Every one morning from Suva had all the snay and was merry; every one had reason to be. go of a new adventure; and rightly so, for The Blight had been wiped out, and Mr. 'I' Copyright by the Author. 417 418 THE MID-PACIFIC

London was skipper. Tohoi for the last in a churning cream of foam. Pretty work week was so happy over the prospect, that, it was, steering through the blowing world when Jack raised his pay, the dear child- of sea, and we not alone in it, for there man begged to be allowed to work for were many little white cutters in sight. nothing; but "Nothing doing!" was Jack's * * ' It's going to be a rough night, reply. Nakata was all teeth, and went and we shall miss Mrs. MacDonald's about his work emitting happy little noises. fluffy, stationary beds! Martin wore a face of extreme content- ment; and Wada hummed in his hot little June 7, 5908-150 miles. galley. And it was. I fell asleep toward morn- Anent Jack's taking command, Martin ing, and was dreaming heavily of a free- tells the following ludicrous conversation for-all fight of the Snark crew with Cap- between himself and the "manageress" of tain Warren, when I was shaken awake a hotel in Suva, who volunteered that she'd by Henry's laugh on deck—a musical yet heard in town that the Snark was going to rollicking gurgle of utter contentment, like sail without Captain Warren. Martin an- an American negro's. And when I came swered that this was true, but that Mr. on deck, gentle Tehei was singing a himine London was going to take command. at his work. Henry unearthed some hith- "I should think you'd all be scared to erto unheard-of (by us) navigation books, death to go without a captain—I would !" and pottered with them at odd moments. "But Mr. London is going to be cap- The morning faces of all hands brought to tain," Martin repeated. our minds that this is the first time we've "My goodness — it doesn't seem right ever had a true "Snarking" crowd aboard. for a little boat like that not to have a Jack had slept but three hours, owing to captain!" she pursued, with feminine dis- a bad cold as well as the responsibility of regard of any one's speech but her own. the boat, and did not try to write today, "Well, we all think Mr. London is a but busied himself getting hold of every- better captain than any the Snark has had thing, and, most important, brushing up on yet," Martin warmed up. "He can navi- navigation. He gave us all a serious talk gate all around Captain Warren, and * *." about our individual responsibilities, at the "Oh, it doesn't seem to me safe ,for you wheel, and such matters. Watching him fellows to trust yourselves at sea in a boat today, it puzzles me how he is going to ac- like that without a captain." complish all he has laid out, in addition to Martin ground his teeth and suddenly his writing. discovered he had business down street, Nakata and I figured out additional lit- leaving the woman to vapor over the dread tle conveniences for Jack in his stateroom future of the Snark. —a pencil rack here, a book rack there. I Our first memory and our last of Suva took the chronometer time for him when harbor will always be of the kindness of he was making observations. I have a feel- Captain Woolley. He saw us safely out ing that he has not been altogether satis- as he had seen us safely in, and rendered fied with the way they have worked out. us a thousand other kindnesses. No land in sight, not even a reef. Wind The northwest trade was blowing a increased until Jack ordered the spinnaker youthful gale, and as our course was south- and headsails in, and in the afternoon we west, we boomed along before it. In order Ted under mainsail and spanker. to make good time and sail free of the We are so full of plans. Adventure looms honeycomb of reefs to starboard, Jack set bigger than ever ; and why shouldn't it, the spinnaker. We rushed along with a with our first cannibal islands but a few corckscrew sort of motion, our copper heel days away ?—and volcanoes. I shall take THE MID-PACIFIC 419 my volcanoes in quite an easy matter-of-fact noon, followed by calm, and the warmth way ere long! Captain Cook—of course! was grateful to us with colds. —discovered Tanna, with its volcano, on The day has ended very joyously for Jack. August 4, 1774. Read what he wrote about Without going into technical details—I it and wonder if we of the Snark are at should promply be swamped if I did—he all bored: has discovered why he was going wrong in "At daybreak, August 4, we saw a low working out his sights since we left Fiji. island (Imer) to the northwestward * * He had forgotten one very important fac- having passed close to it during the night, tor: that a degree—sixty miles—is only and a high one nearlf east (Futuna), at the sixty miles at the equator; and that the distance of eight or nine leagues. The large world is smaller and smaller around the island (Tana), toward which we still farther one is from the equator. Down directed our course, extended from NW. to here, in nineteen degrees south latitude, he SE. and consisted of a high range of moun- had been figuring sixty miles to a degree. tains. Towards the southeastern extrem- As he says, anyone who wants to break all ity, at the end of a secondary range of hills, speed records circling the world, has only we discovered a volcano of which we had to sail around in a fast steamer in the lati- really seen the fire at night. It was a low tude of Cape Horn! hill, much lower than any in the same Just the same, Jack will not feel entirely range, and of a conical shape, with a crater satisfied until day after tomorrow, when, in the middle. Its color was reddish brown, according to his calculations, we should see consisting of a heap of burnt stones, per- our first high New Hebrides island, Fu- fectly barren, but it afforded a very strik- tuna. ing sight to our eyes. A column of heavy smoke rose up from time to time, like a Tuesday, June 9, 1908. great tree, whose crown gradually spread A shark! We lured him and caught him as it ascended. It is the most powerful with all the usual excitement. He was a volcano in the group. The whole island, five-footer, and no one who had a steak except the volcano, is well wooded and con- from him at breakfast had any criticism to tains abundance of fine cocoa-palms; its make, either of meat or cooking. verdure, even at this season, which is the Quite calm all forenoon, with low rain- winter of these regions, was very rich and curtains on the eastern horizon. About beautiful." 3 :30 the wind came out of the southwest, In 1872, Commander Markham visited and the sea made up. Barometer falling. the crater, which was found to be about We play three-handed hearts evenings. 600 feet in diameter. The officers of But Jack and Martin are having everything H. M. S. Pearl, in 1875, found its height their own way, while I mourn my bad to be 950 feet. Mr. F. A. Campbell says: luck. "This volcano is a splendid lighthouse ; there is no mistaking it; the noise of its Wednesday, June 10, 1908. eruptions is heard distinctly upon Aneit- We're all a-tiptoe now to see how right yum, fully 40 miles away." Jack is. We must be near land, for there is a lot of flotsam on the water, and many Monday, June 8, 1908. brown-and-white birds about. We had a The coolness of the weather has made rough night, but all slept well, except Mar- us hunt for blankets at night and warm tin, who has caught our cold. Wind less- raiment by day. I have caught Jack's cold, ened toward sunset, and barometer is 30:10 a sore throat,- and neuralgia in the face. —which we find is normal for hereabout. There was a sharp squall in the after- We have been loafing about the cockpit 420 THE MID-PACIFIC in a burnished gold sunset, talking about joined him just an instant after he had our landfall tomorrow. Jack smiled his spotted the dim but unmistakable high wise little smile at my jibes, and said : cone. And it was exactly where it ought "That's all right, my dear, but you to be! I could have wept with delight, but watch my smoke. I tell you that about kept very still, for Jack was very still, too, six tomorrow morning you'll see the pret- but pleased clear through, with that little tiest classic blue cone your heart could de- half-bashful smile he wears when he sits sire, rising a couple of thousand feet out under praise. It was a great moment, in its of the sea to the southwest." small way, and it is the small things that He altered course so that the Snark make great contentment. This was his first should pass Futuna ten miles to the north- unaided landfall, as captain and navigator ward, and the last thing he said on going of his own little ship, with the burden of below, was to Wada: lives in his care. "Wada San, your watch tomorrow morn- We could not go below again, but sat ing, you look sharp, you see land on wea- and dreamed our dreams in the growing ther bow." day. The west was all silver and rose, the east steel and lilac, with low clouds scrolled Port Resolution, Tana, New Hebrides, back like gargantuan rolls of sleeping mats, Thursday, June II, 1908. and to the south Futuna grew like a mir- We are so proud of ourselves. Not that age on a clear horizon, or a Japanese paint- we mere mortals have anything to be proud ing on gray silk. The ocean, gray and dull- of, except our godlike skipper, one J. L., glossy, and slow like a flow of lava, seemed whose mysterious rites and figurings bore to show the bulge of the earth between us out his prophesy and guided our "frail and the island. The sun rose suddenly, an barque" into this turbulent harbor. Tur- irregular nugget of intolerable brilliance bulent does not refer to the water of Port bursting up from a low gray cloud lined Resolution, but to the bottom thereof. Not with gold. The cloud-mats became bales long ago — inside forty years — large ships of precious stuffs of undressed dyes. Then could anchor here, and now only vessels of the dazzling hurt of color and gilt toned our draft can float free. Each new survey down into the soothing blue of broad has been put out of line by the upheavels of morning, the sea into loveliest azure, and this restless island. And with the volcano we all woke to noisy congratulations over one is never for a moment unconscious of our fair prospect at a ripping good break- its instability. The 1901 Sailing Direc- fast of hotcakes and shark steak! tions are the latest we have; and it would Jack said we would pass Futuna at ten be more interesting than comfortable for us miles. At eight o'clock he took its distance if it were now about time for the bottom by the sextant and found it to be 9.3 miles of the bay again to heave up and strand us away. It is a steep truncated cone, 1931 high and dry. feet high, ten miles around and not peopled The Snark logged a steady six knots all from the New Hebrides, but by some Poly- last night, but Jack confessed he slept little. nesian canoe-drift.. He kept waking and thinking: "Just sup- Henry, aloft, had sighted Tana at seven pose I am wrong, and run into the damned o'clock, dead ahead, and during the day thing!" He went on deck at three, during our unremitting six knots brought us into Henry's watch. The log recorded forty- better and better view of the towering two miles. At 5 :30 he went up again, and smoke of the volcano, Mt. Yasowa. To Wada, at the wheel, had seen no land. Jack the south we had Aneiteum, and to the planted himself on the cockpit and gloomily north Aniwa. stared southwest. I came up at six, and As we approached Tana, Jack had me THE MID-PACIFIC 421 take the wheel and sent Henry aloft and show. All were undersized, except one, a Martin below to be ready to throw on the Futuna boy who was tall and large and propeller. With his glasses Jack swept the handsome, with laughing eyes wide set, and land for miles but could detect no opening a mouth all smiling Polynesian curves. One in the crashing, unbroken rock coast. He Tanese, a spry, slender soul, with near set took his compass bearings—one of Futuna, black eyes, wore sideburn whiskers com- another of Aniwa, laid them off on the bined with a fierce mustache. Another, a chart, and found the Snark's true course to holy-mannered, fanatical-eyed elder of the be straight for this apparent ruin. He had church on the hill, had a fringe of thin me hold on until we were not more than black whiskers halo-ing his rotund counten- an eighth of a mile from the thundering ance, the lower part of the fringe growing surf, much to the concern of Hehei and beneath the chin in a way that made him Henry, who declared there was no entrance. resemble an American backwoods farmer Then I was directed to steer parallel with gone wrong. But he was a lovable chap. the coast. They were taut minutes, I'll The rest of the men were all individuals of own—taking orders over that huge oily one kind or another. Most of them spoke swell, so near to swift destruction. It was English of sorts, and all were connoisseurs not as if this were a solid and dependable of sea-biscuit and tobacco. island of staid habits. Our only informa- And yet, five miles back in the bush, the tion about the reef passage was seven years savages are unreclaimed and ancestor-wok- old, and we did not know what had hap- shipers who eat one another to this day, al- pened since, or when we might grind on though Mr. Watt, the missionary, assures disastrous bottom. us that a European is perfectly safe any- But Jack kept on abreast, and presently where on Tana. It is thirty years since a we recognized certain landmarks described white man was killed here, and he was in the Directions— a yellow sandstone bluff shot, and not kaikai'd. He died in the and a pyramidal rock; then, just where it house where Mr. Watt lives. ought to be, a narrow opening appeared, From the little station in a bight of the but outside of it a line of breakers. Henry bay, came the Scotch trader, Mr. Wyllie, and Tehei regarded it with troubled eyes. with gifts of fruit, and we kept him for As we ran on, still abreast, we saw that supper. He is a vast ashen man, with the line of white water overlapped the line ashen brown eyes very wide apart, ashen from the other side, and a narrow place hair, mobile ashen mouth and a classic showed where the sea was calm. I put ashen nose. He looks as if the tropics have down the wheel, Martin threw on the pro- burned him to this ashen hue. peller, and to Jack's "Steady!" and hand- Mr. Brown, a Christian native, "Joseph movements, I steered in, full of relief, while Brown, please," elder of the Presbytery, the boys took in sail. We rounded a little came out with a message from Mr. Watts, point and saw the mission station, and when that owing to prayers ashore, the supper Wada, at the lead-line, reported "Two hour, and the lateness of our arrival, he fathoms !'' I put the wheel down, Martin and his wife had not come out, and hoped shut down the engine, and the anchor chain we could return with the bearer. Tehei, grated through the hawse-hole. It was five blissful and self-conscious, ran the launch o'clock. Henry gravely paced a few meas- for us. As we climbed up the perfumed ures of a hula, Nakata pirouetted and twilight bank, a woman spoke to our guide flashed his teeth, and then we watched the softly and inquiringly from a gloom of ba- things that were putting out to us from all nanas, then fled before us, white-robed, direction. They looked like an all-star laughing and calling back tantalizingly to troupe of comedians made up for a minstrel him in a love-toned voice. 422 THE MID-PACIFIC

r The Native and His Canoe.

Around the Island of Hawaii

By DEAN H. LAKE.

NE Ford runabout, a tent, cloth- our luck on deck, which is "tabu" to steer- ing and miscellaneous small articles age passengers. It was our good fortune to 0 accompanied "B" and me as we arrive unaccosted and we drank in the boarded the "Mauna Kea" at Honolulu. fresh sea air until late afternoon. As we Our determination to travel steerage was approached Lahaina harbor the purser, spy- somewhat shaken as we attempted to find a ing us, inquired: "What stateroom are you few feet of floor space in the crowded hold ; two in ?" and our answer: "Numbers 1 an we decided, however, to try it as far as the 2, steerage," sent us back into the close at- outside of the harbor. It would be herd mosphere of the dingy hold. We were not for me to describe the sixty or seventy oc- discouraged, however, and a few hours after cupants of that not over spacious room. The dark found us snugly rolled in blankets greater part were Filipinos and Japanese under our Ford. We had at least the ar- who were evidently to become plantation gument that we had paid for the floor laborers, but Hawaii, Portugal, and Korea space. were also well represented. We were not I awoke the next morning with a start long out of Honolulu before the port holes which resulted in a smear of grease and a near us were closed and we decided to try decided bump. For a minute I couldn't

423 424 THE MID-PACIFIC realize what had happened, but the smell gradually turned to an inky black, then of gasoline and oil reminded me of our closed and spouted no more, can hardly fail position and hurrying as stealthily as pos- me. I can not explain the fascination, the sible into the steerage we were agreeably unnatural thoughts that crowd into one's surprised to find that the port holes had mind as great slabs of lava tear themselves been opened and that an hour more would loose from the sides, melt, and disappear. find us docked at Hilo. Certainly the I awoke the next morning in time to see shores which line Hilo harbor : the high the glorious sunrise gild the rising clouds of cliffs dotted here and there with stately steam from Kilauea, and could not resist coco-palms and ever-changing waterfalls, the temptation to watch the lava boil and are wonderful. One of Hawaii's beautiful spurt for another hour. At nine o'clock cloud effects, with the sun slowly creeping we broke camp and spent the day near through the clouds and gilding all in bril- the Volcano House, visiting the lava tube liant morning sunlight, made a scene I shall and the sulphur banks. We had dinner at never forget. At noon we had paid a visit the Volcano House and then crowded to the Rainbow Falls, taken a refreshing around the fireplace and listened to tales swim off Coco-nut Island, and were ready by Professor Jagger, "the guardian of to start for the volcano, Hawaii's greatest Kilauea." attraction from the tourist's standpoint. Early the following morning I visited The country through which the road to Professor Jaggar and was greatly interested Kilauea winds is constantly changing; first, in his collection of pictures taken of through miles and miles of sugar-cane fields, Kilauea. Professor Jaggar and Mr. Wood, where the Japanese laborers are hard of his assistant, are certainly enthusiastic in work, on through a stretch of ruined koa their stduy of the activities of Kilauea. forest, another mile or two of cane fields, Thanks to the work of Hawaii's pris- and then the road winds through a tropical oners, we traveled nearly all day over roads forest of which Hawaii can well be proud. as smooth as glass and arrived at Naalehu, We passed jungles of tree ferns, great where the Hutchinson plantation is situ- spreading koa trees, and ohia trees loaded ated, at about three in the afternoon. We with lucious red and green mountain ap- stopped until nearly dark to visit with ples. It does not seem that we could have friends, and when Waiohino was reached, climbed to an altitude of four thousand six miles farther on, darkness overtook us. feet, and yet here we are on the very edge Waiohino is a beautiful little village, seem- of Kilauea watching a sight so fascinating ingly free from outside influences; we that we can hardly make up our minds to shall also remember it for another reason— leave. We are camped about two hundred the price of gasoline, which necessity cost us yards from the edge of the crater, with the a round forty cents a gallon. Good roads auto as a shield against the strong clouds of ahead were promised us so we sped on, and steam. The volcano is wonderfully active, never before have I experienced such acute and is two hundred feet higher than last thrills as on this joyous night ride. The year. It was so clear an hour ago that winding road leads down through gulches we could see every fissure in the walls, and and over crags, through lava flows and koa the fifteen fountains that were spurting forests and our lights, in climbing an in- gave off such great heat that we felt un- cline, played into the air and left the road comfortably warm. This great lake of dropping off into space. It was great fun boiling lava will be as vivid a scene in my to calculate the repair to the machine mind thirty years from now as it will be Atould we take this or that drop, and hence tomorrow and the memory of the great lava each gulch was named in passing, a two or cone in which the red hot lava spouted and three hundred dollar drop, as the case THE MID-PACIFIC 425 might be. About ten o'clock the good the great Heiau of Refuge stands. We had roads failed us and we stopped for the several references from Captain Cook's and night in the path of the lava flow of 1878. other early voyages in regard to these "B" has decided that the seat of the auto ancient temples of worship and found it of makes an excellent sleeping place, and I great interest to hunt out the places re- am trying my luck in the rut of road, be- ferred to and could almost picture the deeds neath the car. Can you imagine the squeak taking place; the weird incantations of the of the Ford as "B" tries to place himself old native kahuna's and the solemn, awe- in a less cramped position, or the grating inspired movements of all in witness. The of the stones as I remove a young boulder few natives still at Honaunau are the least from beneath my head to make a more changed of any we have seen thus far on comfortable pillow? our trip. We found men, women and chil- Daylight found us nursing stiff necks dren fishing and swimming, wearing little and several aching limbs but breakfast and or no dress, and laid it greatly to their a few miles in the Ford over a road of credit that they seemed so unconscious of rough lava soon distributed the lameness the fact in our presence. It was a lesson in so that all thought of pain left us. morality, which many of us today could It surely is astonishing how many small well take to heart ; at least it is far better churches exist near the country towns of than silhouette skirts and other derivations Hawaii ; certainly if one can judge by ap- of modern fashion. While we were taking pearances the people must be very pious. a swim a little native boy took us for a At two o'clock we arrived at Napoopoo, a ride in his outrigger canoe which he delightful village on the beach, which can proudly told us his father had made a tree certainly boast of a fine sandy beach and a "make" (dead) to build. We were loth beautiful location. On one side, the cliffs to leave this interesting boy, but once again tower over Kealakakua Bay where Captain in the car there were thrills ahead of a Cook, the early explorer, met his death, and greatly different nature. The road wound on the other side, the rocky, sea-washed in and out up an incline which, at its high- shore is dotted with silhouetted coco palms. est point, reached 2000 feet. Each turn We watched a ball game for an hour, which brought a new view, a new landscape, with terminated as a stalwart Hawaiian drove the sea shimmering in the weak sunlight the cover from the one and only ball, and and fading off into the gray and blue of then followed the interesting crowd of the horizon. Above and below the road Hawaiians to the shore, where all hands were acres and acres of the famous Kona thoroughly enjoyed an hour's sport in the coffee, covered with countless green and clear waters of the bay. By all hands I red berries, and here and there Japanese include "B" and myself, for we couldn't and Hawaiian pickers. Homesteads dotted resist that fine sandy beach and clear cool the hillside and we caught glimpses of cof- water. We haven't seen anyone working t fee mills surrounded by great stretchers, Napoopoo all day, but I suppose they must upon which the coffee beans were drying. work in the coffee fields which surround At Kealakakua we managed to make a Jap- the village. I am writing this perched on anese restaurant keeper, who was busy pick- the top of one of the two lumber piles be- ing his coffee, understand that some lunch tween which we are camped—in the heart would be very welcome, the jingling of of the village at that. silver in our pockets producing a great We rode back four miles on the road to scurry, but not a greatly appetizing lunch. Kilauea the next morning, left the machine, All afternoon we ran on through an unin- and took the path which leads down to the teresting country, except in the passing once flourishing village of Honaunau, where through of scattered villages, and darkness 426 THE MID-PACIFIC found us still twenty miles from "Waimea, be sorry to leave we shall feel like getting but we decided to push on and reach that on towards Hilo tomorrow. village, if possible. The road led through At two o'clock the following day we the lava flow of 1859, which appeared al- were at Waimea, and after stopping for most as fresh as the much more recent flows lunch, branched east and arrived in two of Kilauea. The road certainly had excite- hours at Honokaa, in a terrific downpour ment enough for a night ride. Shooting up of rain. The sugar mill at Honokaa is an and down the sides of lava canyons where interesting one, and the village which sur- great gullies of lava were crowned with rounds it very picturesque. A few more jagged edges, the shapes revealed by our miles of fair road and the tracks of the Hilo headlights were the most weird and railroad appeared and we were again in "spooky" I have ever seen. Only a mile direct communication with Hilo, the me- ahead of us another auto glowed its way tropolis of Hawaii. Dark overtook us an along, and arriving at the top of some steep hour ago, as we passed through Oakala, but incline its lights would gild the rugged lava we have ridden nearly ten miles and have for hundreds of yards ahead. The cold struck camp since then. I think we are wind sweeping across the plains as we ap- about two miles from Lapahoehoe; at least proached Waimea chilled us to the bone, bad roads usually warn us of approach to and after a good hot dinner we pitched a town of some size. our tent in the shelter of the Waimea store. We awoke the next day to find a beauti- We awoke at six o'clock the next day to ful scene spread out before us. Lapahoehoe find ourselves in the midst of a curious is a little cocoanut dotted village, shut in group of cowboys. Nowhere could one find on either side by steep cliffs, with the thun- a better study of faces, certainly not with dering surf pounding in onto the rocks as many nations represented. For miles and which line the shore—a scene which would miles around Waimea the cattle lands gladden the heart of any true artist. We stretch out, on one side Mauna Kea, passed Hakalau, Honomu, and Pepeepeo in grandly fading off into the clouds 10,000 the early morning, but it was not until a feet above, and on the other the Kahala f-w miles from Onomea that we again had Mounta'nF, reaching far up into the mist. the steep cliffs, beneath which the surf It is a scene as grand as our western states comes pounding in, flashing all colors of the can boast of. Turning south we arrived in rainbow in the bright sunlight. A storm Kohala after a ride of twenty miles and was brewing as we reached Onomea and stopped at a little town called Hawi, which although we greatly wished to take pictures is situated only about four miles from the of this beautiful spot, we deemed it best sea. All in all, Kohala is as interesting as to reach Hilo before dark. The Arch was any Dart of Hawaii, and certainly no more wonderful, silhouetted as it was against the hcrpitable a community exists. There are Ftormy sky, and a welcome change from the three sugar mills in the district and all have glittering, gaudy colors displayed by the rich lands from which to draw their supply sunlight of a few hours before. Papaikou, of cane. The laborers seem to be better Paukaa, and Wainaku flashed bq and we were again in Hilo. Our speedometer cared for than anywhere else we have been. registered iust 341 miles ; and we could From the head of Kahala Gulch we were but feel that we had been very lucky able to get one of the most beautiful coast to have had neither puncture nor acci- views thus far seen on our trip. dent. We have played billiards and tennis to- "B" took a friend to the volcano in the day, through the kindness of the members auto the day following and I have been of the Kohala Club, and although we shall discovering pictures in the seldom-traveled THE MID -PACIFIC 427 lanes and paths near Hilo. I took a trip He watched good-naturedly while I set up to the four-mile-cave back of Hilo, and my camera and minded not the least my spent nearly two hours exploring the cave picture taking. After we had given him a and taking flashlight pictures of the inte,-- couple of cigars he became quite sociable ior. It was very interesting to follow the and told us several interesting tales of the course of the lava as it had evidently tried "time before Haole (white man) Pilikia" to force its way up through the rocks and (trouble). In fact, we spent so much time roots, but had been rushed on by the for- in this interesting and picturesque bay that ward flow, leaving a cup-shaped dome in the we arrived in Hilo only a few minutes be- present cave. fore the boat sailed. "B" and I took the trip to Onomea the The trip had been a week in fairyland day we left Hawaii, and were surprised in for me, and although many details will walking down towards the sea to find sev- soon be forgotten, it will always remain eral grass huts, badly in need of repair, but as an everlasting dream, a grand collection inhabited, and good records of days gone past. In one an old brown-skinned Ha- of memories. Surely I shall always have waiian was peeling taro roots with shells an "Aloha" for the hospitable people of gathered from the seashore near at hand. the Island of Hawaii. 428 THE MID-PACIFIC

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O A Street in Japan.

Nagasaki Through a Port Hole

By MAGRUDER GORDON MAURY.

ID you ever see a city through its compensations. One does not get so a porthole, or, more properly, tired with sightseeing, weary of dragging D through a pair of binoculars from aching feet from place to place, urged on the deck of a troopship ; the sights and by the restlessness of the tourist. But sounds, with the scents of the flowers, even the method also has its drawbacks. the place, dimmed as it is by distance, liv- The long winding entrance to Nagasaki ing for you only in your longing imagi- Bay is wonderful. U. S. Grant called nation ? That is the way I saw Nagasaki Nagasaki's harbor the most beautiful in the first time. In a way, the method had the world. True, much of it is hidden

429 430 THE MID-PACIFIC

Everywhere in Japan Is the Toni and the one-storey Shinto Temple. from the sight of strangers on the decks grimed with coal dust from the coaling of wayfaring ships which may chance to station, and the crew was busy washing drop anchor within the land-locked har- her clean. If she had half the trouble get- bor, but the gleams of beauty one may see ting rid of the dirt that we did afterward, even from the upper deck of a steamer are I feel sorry for the men aboard. startling in their witchery. Instead of making port in an hour, it Looking back at my first visit to the was nearer three before a spck- and span port, the thing that stands clearest in my little launch, carrying the quarantine of- mind is the mass of dark foliage, out of ficials, chugged alongside and gave us the which peeped the roofs of little Japanese right to steam ahead. But the wait was toy houses—houses which I learned years worth while. Never have I seen such blue afterward were well worth nearer vision. water, and never shall I forget the first The sun was just climbing out of the sight of the island-sprinkled bay of Naga- sea when I was called on deck with the saki. And every island, no matter how information that Nagasaki was right tiny, was being made to do its work in the ahead, and that we would drop anchor general scheme of things, for on everyone within the hour. When I reached the deck, could be seen the villages of the fisher there above the ducking, swinging bow folk, first cousins to the tiny clustering was the coast of Japan, the dream country. townlets that are scattered about the shore It was a brilliant day and hot for the sea- of the bay. It is here that the fisher and son. As we drew closer to the mouth of seaweed-gatherers live. the harbor, protected as I was told, by Back of the villages were the fields. many modern forts, although I could see Even through the glass with which I none of them, so well were they hidden, a studied them, I could see how closely these dull gray man-of-war, flying the Asahi fields were being worked ; and despite the banner of the Mikado, steamed slowly past fact that the sun had but hardly cleared the us. Her decks and sides were still eastern horizon when I first saw them, al- THE MID-PACIFIC 431

rrr wO iii r wrasrare rrrrrrrrerr rrrrrrirrerrrn prrrrrrrrrrr r r i rrrr. rrrr:

The Priest in Japan Is Arrayed Like Solomon in All His Glory.

ready there were men and women at work, ly small, were filled and passed from hand tiny blue and brown dots against the to hand from the yawning barge to the green. gaping bunkers by the endless chain of Down rumbled the anchor, and before sweating, smiling, chattering men, women its splash had died away, up the side of and children. There was not much clothing the vessel swarmed scores of brown, half- on any one of them when the job began, and naked figures. The deck hands tossed lines as the day got hotter and hotter they shed to them from the upper rails, and making most of that and worked nearly naked in fast their bobbing sampans, they ran up the sun. the towering plates like happy children. In I watched them until I was weary and a few moments they were clustered in then moved to the after rail, where I leaned groups in the well of the ship, forward, and looked across the stretch of water that while some worked feverishly to get the lay between me and the shore, marveling hatches off and start the task of coaling. at the sheer beauty of the view. And even as I gazed fascinated at them, The first thing that caught my eye on there banged into us two huge and un- the green, grass-covered hills opposite the wieldy barges, heaped high with coal, on city, was a huge white sign, in Japanese the top of which more and still more cool- characters, full of queer, outlandish curves ies were standing. Then began the work and dots and cross lines. It appeared to of coaling ship by hand baskets. They do have been done with stones whitewashed, it better in Nagasaki now, I am told, but and must have been fifty or sixty feet deep in those days little bamboo baskets, absurd- from top to bottom and about as much 432 THE MID-PACIFIC across. For a time I puzzled over this, un- such as you will see in some parts of San til I learned that it was another evidence Francisco. of the "progress" Japan was making in For two hundred years and more Naga- Occidental culture—a cigarette advertise- saki has been doing business with Euro- ment. As a billboard, that hill was surely peans, but one would never dream it to unique, but the sign was artistic. look at the city from the deck of a ship From the deck of the ship where I in the harbor. There is an aloof feeling stood, much of the city of Nagasaki was about it, as though the city, aged and wise, hidden by masses of foliage that clothed the has looked on with a silent smile at the hills on which the town is built, but enough money-making efforts of these strange for- was to be seen to get a general impression eigners, and ships and things that cluttered of the daintiness of this oldest of the open up her beautiful harbor. ports of Japan. The Mitsu Bishi dock- The Portuguese first landed in Naga- yard, with its new granite dock, its patent saki, which by the by, is built on the rug- slip and its shipbuilding yards, where every- ged peninsula in the Hizen Kuni, or prov- thing that a steamer requires may be pro- ince, on the island of Kiushiu. Three cured, and where ships of five hundred feet shipwrecked mariners they were, these length and twenty-six feet draft can be Dons, picked up by a Chinese junk, which docked, took my eye. The curling smoke was also wrecked. It was a tiny beginning from the chimneys disturbed my sense of of the tremendous change that has since the fitness of things, for, with the rest of swept over Japan, and Nagasaki, sleepy, the view subconsciously in my mind, I in- dreamy, beauty-loving and beautiful Naga- stinctively felt that western innovations saki, has seen it all, smiling serenely could but spoil the beauty of the native among her hills the while. Nippon. Of course, as I stood there at the rail It was with relief therefore that my eye of the troopship I conjured up pictures turned from the bustle of th e engine based on the things I had read of Nagasaki. works to the medieval Japan of the city How it was right here that the Christian itself. Later I found that the foreign part priests made their first attempt to spread of the town is but small and scattered for Christianity in Nippon. How the religion the most part along the waterfront from grew and grew unti 1 there were many the hatobar, or landing place. It did not thousasds of converts, and how, after long intrude itself from where I stood, the go- tolerating it, the priests and the Shogun downs, or warehouses, being mellowed by finally ordered the new faith exterminated, the faint haze that hung over the blue and 40,000 martyrs died in Nagasaki for waters. their faith. For the rest, the city appeared as though Through the glasses I could see the tilted on end, so to speak, a queer freak of roofs of temples, surrounded by trees, and perspective, I suppose, due to the fact that I wondered what tales the courtyards it is situated on the concave sides of the could tell, for I knew that even after the rising, tree-covered hills. And what trees death of the forty thousand and the of- they were, mantling the sides of that inlet, ficial report that Christianity was dead in which was almost steep enough and nar- Dai-Nippon, the religion of the Portuguese row enough to pass muster as a Norse fjord ! fathers lingered in Nagasaki alone of all There are forests of maples and ever- Japan. green oak, with towering, spreading cam- And astern, as we lay tugging at our phor trees scattered here and there among anchor chain in the pull of the tide, I them. And peering modestly through the could see, as through the mouth of a tun- maze of leaves are the roofs of the houses, nel, the open sampans a-fishing in the of- climbing roof above roof in irregular rows, fing. And another picture came to me, of THE MID-PACIFIC 433 the first migration that filled Nippon with catch it. At first it looked with wide, people. For it was the island of Kiushiu, jet black eyes at this stranger, so curiously which was the landing place of the first dressed, and then tucked its little shaven settlers of Japan, men and women from head into the hollow of my arm and went some mysterious land, who took advantage to sleep. But its mother missed it soon of that line of islands which dot the path and came running to me for the child. As between Japan and Korea, barely a hun- I handed it over with a grin, she bowed dred miles away, hardly so far as from deeply, serenely oblivious to her lack of Tampa to Key West. Or they might have overly much adornment, and sucking in come by that other line of stepping stones her breath said something that ended with called the Lu Choo Islands, that stretch "sayronada." from Kiushiu Island, by Formosa down to I repeated it after her, at which she the Malay Peninsula. beamed delightedly, and said it all over as Meanwhile there was a clatter of wood- I turned away. en clogs around me and I turned to see Over the wonder bay there was a hush that it was noon, and the workers were and the faint sounds that had come from resting while the ship's crew knocked off the shore during the morning were stilled. work for their tiffen. It was a nearer view Only in the tops of the camphor trees was of these little people, and I, from my vast there movement to be seen ashore, in the ignorance, tried to get behind the masks tops of the trees and way up above, in the of coal dust and Oriental impassiveness— blue sky, where there circled a lazy buz- and could not. Only with a baby did I zard. I drew a deep breath and the scent succeed in striking up an acquaintance. The of the trees, mingled with odors from the little naked atom, after feeding unblushing- flower-spattered islands, came to me. It ly at its mother's breast, began crawling was the smell of Nagasaki, and! never have about the dusty, grimy deck, gaining new I got it out of my nose. Nor have I ever smudges with every move. Presently it regretted that the first time 1 saw this reached the rail and would have continued quaint Oriental gem of cities, it was its crawl overboard, but I was in time to through a porthole.

Tiles and Paper to the Stranger Seem the Chief Constituents of the Japanese House. 434 THE MID-PACIFIC

The people of the Philippines believe that copra, which is south sea island money. Coconut Trees in the Philippines.

• Growing Cocoanuts in the Philippines

By 0. W. BARRETT.

HE world's most important food lows and oils—but several kinds of whole- fruit is the coconut ; the grape and some human food as well. From all indi- Tcoffee are more important only in cations it will be many years before chemists commerce. It is only within , the last fif- can produce cheaply from synthetic oper- teen years, however, that the commercial ations any substances which might take the Interests have realized that in the oil ob- place of the vegetable oils. Such oils are tained by pressing copra, the dried "meat" safe, therefore, from the attacks, so to of the coconut, there is not only a very speak, of synthetic scientists. cheap source of vegetable fats—both tal- Most oils contain a certain amount of

435 436 THE MID-PACIFIC acid which is more or less irritating to ani- typhoon damage in certain provinces may mal tissues and even slightly injurious to slightly reduce this figure for the fiscal metals. On that account certain oils can year 1916. It is expected that the copra not be used, either as human foods or as shipments from the Philippines will con- lubricating media, without expensive puri- tinue to increase at the rate of from 15 fying processes. It follows then that an oil to 20 per cent per annum for a goodly num- such as that from copra, carrying prac- ber of years to come. The copra export tically no injurious acids nor substances shows, for each fiscal year, an increase in which in any way attack either tissues or value of from 20 to 40 per cent. metals, is, and for a long time will be, The ,number of bearing trees is now a highly important factor in the world's about 30,000,000 and of immature trees commerce. about 20,000,000. These occupy about In the Philippines, the coconut crop has 200,000 hectares (half a million acres). been handled until the last few years in a very desultory, not to say reprehensible, Both Java and the Malay States are manner ; the export of copra began to as- rapidly increasing their copra production, sume importance about 1890. The old and may closely rival the Philippines in plantations contain at least 30, and some the amount exported. Ceylon has some even 300 per cent, too many trees for the 60,000,000 trees and could, if the price best results to be obtained, and only a com- were sufficiently attractive, export a very paratively few young plantations in the much larger quantity of copra than is now hands of American or foreign capitalists the case; it appears there is an almost un- are correctly set out and properly culti- believably large number (some 1,500,000 vated. Besides the glaringly wrong system per day) of coconuts used as food by the of close planting noticeable in practically peoples of that island, and from some sta- every one of the Filipino plantations, there tistics it would look as if fully one-half of has been another feature of perhaps no less the total number of nuts produced in Cey- weight in determining the yield of the lon are consumed as human food. Broadly trees—lack of cultivation, and especially considered, it is probable that hardly one- lack of attention to the young palms. It third of the world's coconuts are made in- is a well-known fact that neither orchard to copra. Of the many millions of nuts fruit trees nor even coconuts grow rapidly produced in tropical America, all but about or healthily when grass is allowed to cover one per cent are used fresh. the crop-tree roots; this fact will be ex- In the Federated Malay States, coconut plained in the chapter on soils and locations. planting is proceeding at a remarkable rate. If all the coconut palm trees gave forty Notwithstanding the fact that certain areas nuts a year, we should have a crop of ten have given phenomenally good returns in billion nuts per year, or well over three "Para," we occasionally came across writ- hundred nuts per second—which, if laid ten opinions to the effect that coconuts are end to end, would form a line reaching "more sure than rubber." Recent reports around the earth ninety times, which would from Papua, the Solomons, and the New make .a broad belt some twenty meters Hebrides indicate that coconut planting (sixty-five feet) wide for a boulevard over has come to stay in that section of the land and sea. world, and with European capital behind At present the Philippines are producing these large and well-managed estates, there something like 175.000 tons, or about one- is not much doubt that even with a pre- fourth of the world's total copra output; carious labor supply and a large list of this, the second Philippine crop in export insect enemies, the commercial world will importance, is worth locally nearly thirty soon hear a great deal about copra from million pesos (fifteen million dollars gold). that new region—which, until a few years A very severe drought and more or less ago, was considered about the uttermost THE MID-PACIFIC 437

end of the earth, agronomically and other- high ground, coconuts frequently give a wise speaking. light yield, but not because of distance from The old belief that the coconut enjoys the seashore. In fact, some of the best the proximity to sea water is fast dying coconut plantations in the world are lo- out, though it still remains in the mind of cated many kilometers from the seacoast, many coconut growers. It has even been where no breath of sea wind could reach suggested that the coconut requires the sea them. breeze to attain its best development. The None but an experienced laborer should fact is, all wind movement is more or less ever "set" the young palm, and he should detrimental to plant tissues, since the strain not be hurried. His one or two helpers care- thrown upon the separate cells of leaves fully take the plant from the tray or shal- and stems by the bending and twisting ac- low basket in which it has been brought tion of the wind is injurious to the steady from the seed bed and, locating the exact circulation of sap and may easily result center of the hole„ gently settle it into its in shock to the very delicate, jelly-like, pro- bed of soft fine earth, taking care to save toplasmis contents of the growing cells. all the roots possible and to allow no air Students of biology and meteorology read- spaces around the mother nut. After the ily tell us that the circulation of sap in loose earth has been heaped up around plants does not' to any appreciable degree the base of the shoot, it is trodden firmly depend upon the stretching and straining till the earth at the top of the hole is just action of their tissues, but upon certain fac- a few centimeters below the general ground tors, like osmosis and capillary diffusion; surface, then a light layer of loose earth while "there is about as much need of the is scattered over the top—and the work is wind's stirring the atmosphere to prevent done. the concentration of oxygen over the sur- Throughout the coconut plantations of face of the leaf, for instance, as there would the world, there appear to be only two or he in agitating the ocean to prevent an in- three varieties under general cultivation, crustation of salt on the surface on ac- and these are so closely alike that the or- count of the evaporation therefrom." dinary observer fails to note any differences. Many years ago coconut planters in The exact number of forms and varieties some countries believed that the use of of the species (Cocos nucifera) can never salt around the roots of coconuts was bene- be known until they are all "tried out" side ficial, especially at a distance from the sea- by side, but there are probably in the vi- coast, the idea being that the palm de- cinity of twenty-five; of these not more lighted in sodium chloride, which is, with than ten are sufficiently common to be few exceptions, a violent poison to the worthy of mention as economic varieties. more highly differentiated plants, although Besides the ubiquitous Green and Yellow the nipa palm happens to be a striking ex- forms of the plantations—these two being ception to the rule. The only sensible rea- distinguishable merely by the color of the son, in the experience of the writer, which midrib of the leaf and the shade of the has been given for the use of salt about immature nut—the Pemba probably de- young coconuts is that it might temporarily serves first rank. This variety seems to ward off the attacks of injurious insects. be native to the Island of Pemba in the The real reason for the apparent pref- British protectorate of Zanzibar off the erence of coconuts for the seashore location coast of East Africa. The tree is com- is based upon the fact that all heavy, clayey paratively small, though the writer has soils, which hold moisture well throughout noted 15-meter specimens in the Zambesi the year and upon which falls a compara- Valley.. It is exceedingly prolific. The tively large amount of rain, naturally foster husk is of a distinctly pale yellow color, a far greater number of weeds and grass; with a more or less shining surface and thus in hilly countries or on comparatively without the prominent angles of the con 438 THE MID-PACIFIC mon sorts; the husk is comparatively thin, different from the common types that it while the "meat" .itself is of ordinary might well be regarded as a sub-species. thickness; in other words, the percentage The value of this variety, however, is more of "meat" is very high in the total weight in the line of a curiosity than as an eco- of the nut. There are but very few trees nomic. The unripe husk is more or less of this variety now in the Philippines. A saturated with a sweet sap, carrying a similar, larger-fruited sort seems to be na- small amount of astringent substance. tive here, but is exceedingly rare. The Macapuno is rather a sport, or One of the most striking varieties in the freak, nut than a distinct variety. There Philippine plantations is the Guinaring, or is no question but that the average Fili- Ivory; this appears to exist in two forms, pino coconut grower can readily distinguish one nearly globose, the other considerably by "weighing" in the hand these nuts elongated and with rather prominent an- from others in the pile. Futhermore, it is gles. The color is a pale yellowish white, certain that the coconut pickers know from this feature rendering the tree distinguish- experience which trees in a grove usually able at some little distance. The nut itself produce these nuts. Its remarkable char- is not quite up to the standard as to the acter consists in the cavity being more or thickness of meat, flavor, oil content, etc. less completely filled with meat. When thoroughly ripe; the nuts will The Kalimbahim, or Pink-husk, resem- bles the ordinary Yellow as to habit, but fall of their own accord, sometimes singly, has the interior of the husk rose-colored. sometimes in whole bunches; in the fall, except from very high trees and on clayey The Dwarf, or Dahill (or Mangipud) nut appears to be more or less common ground, there is not much danger of the throughout the Archipelago, and from its inner shell being fractured. In Samoa, in habit of early maturity and apparent pro- accordance with law, only these fallen nuts lificness, it is recommended as a variety for may be gathered for copra; the common planting in town yards, public square, etc. method in the Philippines, however, is Besides this there is still another rare form picking, either by means of a bamboo pole of dwarf coconut, which yields a large bearing a knife at the tip, or by a short number of very small nuts, some of them knife in the hands of a laborer who climbs not more than six to eight centimeters the trunk. There are some advantages (2 to 3 inches) in diameter when husked. with the pole over letting the nuts fall of It is questionable whether the giant nuts their own accord ; in protected localities of Lingayen Gulf (in Pangasinan Prov- where wind has little effect on the ripe ince) and San Ramon Farm (Moro Prov- fruit bunches, the nuts may adhere to the ince) are anything more than vigorous fruit branch so long after becoming fully matured that either germinatiOn or a kind strains of the common Green or Yellow; but the chances are that a nut of this type of fermentation may set up inside the nut, planted in a nursery with the others would and this, of course, is exceedingly injurious not only develop a stronger seedling, but to the meat. the plant itself would tend to show the Of the approximately 1750 tons of character of the parent, even under adverse copra which the world is now consuming conditions. The planting of these giant each day, it is probable that only one or nuts is not advisable, however, for the two per cent of this amount is clean, white, total weight of the yield per tree is prob- dry product. Probably something like one- ably no higher than in the case of the or- half is sun-dried; while the remainder is dinary sorts; less than 200 of these nuts put through some sort of kiln and more or it is said are required to make a picual of less smoked and burned in the process. In the Philippines very little copra outside of copra. the Visavas is sun-dried. The remainder The Edible-husk nut, or Tagnanum, of India and the Philippines is so strikingly is partially dried over the tapahan, or THE MID -PACIFIC 439

"parilla," the Philippine type of drying breaking away from a time-honored cus- apparatus which consists essentially of a tom is somehow a difficult thing to do. more or less elevated latticework flooring At present in the United States there over a partially sunken fire-box or furnace. are only a few factories for the manufac- The sun-drying method requires from two ture of coconut oils, suets, and butters, but to four days of "good sun ;" the kiln takes there will soon spring up, especially on the one to three; and the oven from eight to Pacific Coast and, as soon as the Panama twenty hours, depending on temperaturs Canal is opened, on the Atlantic and Gulf and type; the rotary type is said to turn coasts, numerous plants for handling Ori- out a finished product in less than five ental and Pacific copra. hours. Poonac, or copra cake, is one of the The Filipino planter is likely to use not best feedstuffs for domestic animals that only the shells, thrown into the tapahan has ever appeared in the world's markets. furnace in heaps, but even husks, many of It is such a staple in Europe that the copra dealers there can well afford to encourage which are not by any means dry. This fuel bulk shipments of the raw product instead results in an undue amount of smoke, which of the pure oil, no matter how great the dis- thoroughly impregnates the "coprax" or tance. By the same token, it is only natu- pieces of meat, which are spread at vary- ral that the poonac and wholesale copra ing depths upon the latticework over the merchants should oppose the local manu- furnace. This smoking evil could very facture of coconut oil. The time is not easily be prevented by the mere slipping of far distant, however, when many of the a broad, thin sheet of galvanized iron or Philippine coconut planters will make their other metal just under the latticework own oil, ship it through middlemen or di- while the smoke from the charge of fuel rect, and utilize the cake in feeding pigs, is passing off, removing this, of course, as cattle and poultry ; this will be the highest soon as a good bed of coals is obtained. The economy possible. Manila already has one expense for such an obvious improvement large up-to-date copra oil plant and it is would be • quite insignificant, but the expected others will soon follow.

Husking Coconuts and Extracting the "Meat". 440 THE MID—PACIFIC Picturing the Crater.

Haleakala and the Ditch Country

By PROFESSOR A. J. WURTS, Head of the Electrical Department of Carnegie Technical School of Pittsburg. •

HE Island of Maui is made up of these cones were blown against the west two distinct mountain masses joined wall, offering a slope over which it is pos- Tby an isthmus—East Maui—by far sible to descend into the crater. At the the largest part of the island, consists of a east end there is a fault or break in the single moutain, Haleakala, 10,023 feet high crater wall through which the lava flowed and 100 miles in circumference at sea level. to the sea. This is called Kaupo Gap. It The crater at the summit, the largest ex- is one mile wide and eight miles to the sea. tinct crater in the world, is seven and a The crater may also be entered at this half miles long and two and a third miles point. The lava flow from Kaupo Gap wide. It is 2000 feet deep and on its floor takes a southerly direction and the trail at there are thirteen cinder cones, ranging the sea bends to the east, leading to the from 500 to 900 feet high. These also eastern and northern sides of the island, have craters. Their ruins are red, as which are the windward sides. though still hot from the internal fires, The rainfall there is about 400 inches, or while the sides begin at the top with a soft about thirty-three feet. Millions of dollars gray and shade to nearly black at the have been spent in collecting this water in bottom. a huge ditch and conducting it to the sugar The cinders that were forced out of plantations on the less favored sides of the

441 442 THE MID-PACIFIC island. On the windward side the moun- But our attention was now turned to the tain flanks are tremendously eroded. There west and the setting sun. Below was the are wonderful waterfalls and the tropical great belt of clouds, silent and motionless. vegetation is most beautiful. Parallel with The great mass looked like heaps upon the big ditch there is a trail called the heaps of the softest white. Beyond was Ditch Trail. the ocean, wonderfully blue, and the isl- There were six of us—D. B. Murdoch, ands of Molokai, Kauai and Kahoolawe, the organizer and leader of the party, his and far in the distance the two snow caps son and daughter, Miss Buck of San Fran- of Hawaii—Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. cisco, and my daughter and I. My daugh- And as the sun slowly disappeared we ter and I left Honolulu on the Inter-Island looked down on the glory of it all and steamer "Claudine." At Kahului, on Maui, we looked and we kept on looking with Mr. Murdoch met us with his car and, strained eyes, lest we lose a single moment after a good breakfast, drove up to his sum- of it all. Gradually it faded. We began mer house at Olinda, 4000 feet up the to talk, to move. Somebody said "supper" northeastern flank of Haleakala. At Olinda and we all came down to earth with a thud. the other three members of the party joined Soon a fire was blazing, and how savory it us and after a hearty lunch we mounted our all smelled, the fire and the coffee and the horses and started for the summit, the cra- bacon. That was a good supper, way up, ter, the Ditch Trail and four days in the up in the sky! And then the Hawaiian pine- saddle. apples for desert! Nothing ever tasted The trail to the summit was not diffi- better! cult, though at times tedious and rough on I will hurry over the agony of the night. the horses. When about 2000 feet from After a few ghost stories we rolled up in the summit, where vegetation ceases, we our blankets and pretended to sleep on the stopped to gather fire wood, each one car- hard cinder floor. How glad we all were rying a bundle on his saddle. On our way when someone had the courage to groan we passed through a great belt of clouds, out loud. Then we all groaned — turned dodged the rain and reached the rim at over and pretended to sleep again. At four five thirty, p. m. There are two small thirty in the morning we gave it up and shelters here, one for man, the other for went out shivering into the cool moonlight beast. After dismounting, unpacking, etc., to watch for the approaching day. We felt we started for the rim of the crater and dirty and sticky and stiff and bruised and that first look which seems so impossible to cold, and wondered what we had come here describe. One is literally speechless in for, anyhow. the presence of such a spectacle. It is not But all this was forgotten in the glorious because it is so beautiful. It is too rough sunrise over the windward clouds. The for that. I would rather call it fascinating latter completely shut out the ocean, so that in its immensity, its silence and death. And the sun rose over a vast undulating field of then the imagination quickly runs riot as the softest snow. The beauty of it was one tries to picture the mighty forces at much the same as that of the evening be- work which reared great Haleakala 10,032 fore, and yet how different. One was feet from the sea and 17,000 more feet gathering darkness—this a new-born day. from its base, the floor of the ocean. Great Forgetting our aches and the suppressed lava flows wound their way among the cin- groans of the night, we made a hurried der cones and much of the crater floor was breakfast, tended our horses, and at noon covered with this material. were off for the cinder slope leading into The windward clouds were creeping up the crater. It was a two-hour ride along Kaupo Gap at the far end of the crater. the crater rim and over beds of jagged THE MID-PACIFIC 443

high sea cliffs, deeply eroded with gulches, We were shut in by mighty walls. Our lava. It was nerve-racking, too, and a trail wound along the shore, as it were, of mystery to one how a horse could manage a great, silent, motionless, blank glacier. four feet over such a surface. After an The central mass had advanced more rap- hour we rested the horses and amused our- idly than the sides, thus forming great selves by rolling great rocks 2000 feet down curves of ropy black lava. Huge masses the steep cinder slope into the crater. At had been forced forward. Molten masses first they lingered heavily in the cinders, had forced their way through congealed but soon gaining speed they bounded high surfaces, leaving vast caves behind. Bub- into the air and finally with great leaps and bles and cracks had been formed. It was bounds, they crashed into the crater bot- a wonderful place for the imagination! tom. All the morning we toiled slowly over Another hour brought us to the crater vast cinder planes and the nerve-racking ;trail and dismounting, we led our animals lava. At noon we met some hunters after • down the dusty cinder path. There we mountain goat, and at one o'clock we began to feel the reflected heat from the lunched and rested in the mouth of Kapo crater walls and floor, and as a precaution Gap. We had a cupful of water each, but against severe sunburn, the ladies were none for the horses. heavily veiled and the men's faces smeared At two o'clock we started down the gap, with cream ointment. A short detour led leading our horses most of the way. On us to the crest of a nearby cinder cone, and our left was the broken crater wall, tower- our curiosity was satisfied by gazing into ing 2000 feet above us. On the right was its mysterious depths. All we saw was an the great lava flow to the sea, and beyond inverted cone of cinders. For a moment the other wall. It was certainly an impres- the simplicity of it stunted our imagination sive sight. This heaped mass of porous only to let it loose again in the "where and rock that had once moved like molten slag how" of it all. What struck me perhaps down the mountain slope into the sea. At more forcibly than anything else was the the entrance to the gap moss began to be smoothness and perfect symmetry of both found as the first vegetation in the lava. outer and inner cones. Then ferns appeared lower down, then Starting once more, we began to see the lantana. Then lower down the slopes it crater floor more in detail. We saw the became grassy. The gulches were filled twisted masses, the undulations, the caves with koas, kukuis and bananas, while the and cracks in the great lava flows and ridges were covered with guava. presently in the smooth cinder bottom we Finally we reached Kampo, a few scat- espied a variety of geometrical figures tered houses on the sea. A small house worked out on a large scale by the eddying surrounded with orange trees, palms, air currents. It was a most interesting papaias, mangoes, pigs and chickens, gave sight, and then the "silver swords" came us shelter for the night—the three ladies into view. These are plants of the cacti slept on one bed, while the three men di- family. The leaves are shaped like a vided two beds between them. sword and are covered with a silvery down, Next morning, Thursday, after a good hence their name. They are handsome breakfast of papaia, fried eggs and coffee, plants and much sought after, this being we mounted our horses and by seven the only place in the world in which they o'clock started for Kipahulu, about eight grow. miles distant on the eastern shore. Owing Once on the crater floor we began to to the character of the country the look up instead of down. The cinder cones ride was long and difficult. The far- became mountains—the floor a great desert. reaching slopes from Haleakala ended in 444 THE MID-PACIFIC separated by sharp rigdes, so that our trail out that steady drizzle varied with an oc- led up and down, up over the ridges and casional downpour for good measure. The down into the gulches. main entrance was at the neck and the The ridges were very narrow—one was exit at the toes. But what of it—we were called the "razor back." It was scarcely in the tropics. The air was warm and wide enough for a foot path. It was a the rain was warm. As a matter of fact, thrilling ride over the narrow trails cut I soon forgot that it was raining at all, so into the precipitous rocks. Mr. Murdoch absorbed was I in the marvelous scenes kept singing "It's a Long Way to Kipa- through which we passed. hulu," and we soon understood his mean- "In and Out, In and Out," that was our ing, for it was slow and hard climbing up song. Sometimes we penetrated deep into and down the long zigzags, and our eight the mountain before rounding the gulch, miles lengthened out into many more be- then out again and around the ridge, only fore we reached our destination. But it to re-enter a succeeding gulch. And so was a glorious ride. The views from the we wound our way in and out, into deep ridges were charming and the gulches as gulches, into shallow gulches. No two they opened into the blue waters of the were alike, but all were so impressibly beau- Pacific presented everchanging pictures of tiful that it seemed more like a dream than rare beauty. a reality. We reached Kipahulu, a small hamlet of In many places our trail was cut out of sugar planters, about noon, and after lunch the rocky walls, having a thousand feet and an hour's rest started for Hana, an- below and as many more above. Water other little coast village on the extreme was gushing everywhere, from the cliff end eastern end of the island. Our trail now of the gulch, from the side cliffs and from led us further inland, over undulating crevices and holes. Never have I seen such ground and through a beautiful tropical a display of the water beautiful. Think of a single gulch pouring down great masses country. At Hana we slept in comfortable beds, of water from a half dozen places, making and at seven o'clock Friday morning we falls, bridal veils, cascades of all kinds from started for the Ditch Trail on the north- 500 feet to 1500 feet in height. Think of eastern or windward side of the island. all this water dashing into a narrow gorge Rain was almost certain. The erosions decked with moss and swaying ferns, with on this side are very great and the result- vines and shrubs, and trees so thick that ing gulches are from one to two thousand not a rock could be seen except the great feet deep ; narrow, with precipitous sides boulders in the dashing torrent below; and and clothed with moss, mamoth ferns, wild then imagine, if you please, that all this is bananas and countless vines and trees of dripping, dripping with sparkling water, wondrous beauty. Unlike our trail to Kin- and you will gain but a faint impression of ahulu we now followed the great ditch in what we actually saw. And then remember and out of the gulches, instead of up and that this was multiplied and varied over down as on the day before. For several and over again in each successive gulch. At hours we slowly climbed to the ditch level, times it all looked like some wonderful 1000 feet above the sea, passing through park in the tale of the "Arabian Nights," marvelous tropical grdwth and wild, beau- or like some vast conservatory filled with rare tropical plants. And I have since tiful scenery. At about ten o'clock we entered the rain wondered whethed there can be any scenery zone. And it rained and it rained some more lovely or more beautiful than those more. We were all provided with long water-spouting gulches of the Ditch Trail. oil skin coats, but nothing made could keep But all this was not seen without some THE MID -PACIFIC 445

fear and trembling, on my part, at least. at about five o'clock that afternoon, and From the narrow path in the cliff and on there good friends with two automobiles a horse's back at that, it was simply terrify- met us and drove us fifteen miles back to ing to look at the scenery, the dashing tor- Paia, where such kind attentions as a bath, rent and the tops of trees and ferns a thous- hot tea, dry clothing, comfortable beds and and feet below and then the next moment generally turning your house inside out admire a graceful fall of water from as and upside down were much appreciated many feet above. I say it was terrifying, by six tired, rain-soaked but very happy but it was fascinating. It was irresistible, adventurers. and as I looked I unconsciously leaned to- ward the inner wall. I should like to have The next day we dispersed to our re- walked the whole distance, to have lin- spective homes, but not without expressing gered in each gulch in turn and then do to Mr. Murdoch our appreciation and ad- it over again. miration for his kindness and successful As it was, I had quite forgotten that leadership in thus bringing us through we stopped anywhere for lunch, but we many tight places without an accident, or did, and a mighty good lunch it was, too. even a scratch, and inwardly and behind A cup of .hot coffee under wet clothes will his back we thanked him for his charming make anybody smile—and then I don't personality. think any of us will soon forget that de- And now that it is all .ever I look fondly licious dish of lobster, with just a taste of at my battered hobnail shoes and wonder celery, and then came the thimble berries, whether anything else can be worth while. with a pitcher of cream as big as your Have I not seen the grandest, the most head—I have never tasted anytiling so awe-inspiring, the most interesting and the good in my life. most beautiful scenery in the world? I • We reached the end of the Ditch Trail think I have.

Scenes in the Ditch Country on Maui. 446 THE MID—PACIFIC

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Cruising Along Australia's West Coast (Continued)

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.

Sunday, February 1, 1914. He took us aboard his pearling lugger Sunday morning bright and early Joseph and explained its workings. The Govern- was out in his bare feet walking around ment will not issue any more permits to se- the boat. The tide had fallen twenty-eight cure colored labor, and each boat requires feet during the night. Another small boy seven laborers. The gasoline boats pump on the boat had captured a water snake. air down to the diver by machinery, and on No one seems to know whether these water these boats two divers are used. The little snakes are poisonous or not. They can bunks for the crew do not seem to be more bite viciously however, but the divers do than a foot and a half wide. These boats not seem to be afraid of them. After do not go out very far to sea, as they fear breakfast we called on Mr. Frank Ulrica the "wili wili," and they wish to be within in his little corrugated-iron shanty. Ul- two hours of some creek. Ulrich explained rich is a half Austrian and half English to us that the divers if brought up too who landed in Broome theree or four yea r quickly from a great depth are attacked ago with twenty pounds in his pocket. He by paralisis. The air pumped down to now has about four hundred pounds, as he them under great pressure finds its way is a shell-opener and gets ten per cent for through the pores of the skin and forms lit- all of the pearls he finds. He wishes now tle air globules. These gather into an air to start in business for himself. ball about the stomach and if this air ball

447 448 THE MID-PACIFIC ever reaches the heart it proves fatal. The diver and a chance taken that he would only way to cure the paralisis is to let the not gamble it away and get killed in a victim down to a great depth and then drunken row, for the divers are mostly raise him up by easy stages, letting him Malays. The white men will not take rest every fathom for a few minutes. In this dangerous profession which reaps its this way the air seems to get out of the harvest of death every year. Then there blood. It takes skill to be a good diver. are the wages of the men of about of about He must know how to handle his safety thirty shillings a week and the diver's wages valve which lets the air out at different of two or three pounds and a percentage of times. Should the air be let out too quickly, , the value of the shells he finds. The shells his diver suit would stick to him and he sell for two hundred pounds a ton, which would be strangled. Should he iet the air means but two shillings, or fifty cents, a out too slowly, or let too much air in, he pound for shells. would suddenly begin to rise and from a It takes skill on the part of the opener great depth would shoot several feet above to find the pearls, as they are sometimes the surface and probably be killed, for it in the flesh of the oysters. At Cossack, the is often death to be hauled up too quickly. Government compels all pearlers to bring When divers first go down they suffer a their shells ashore and let the flesh rot - great deal with their ears, but the drums then the pearls may be found. At Broome, soon break and there is no feeling. Great the shells are opened aboard the lugger weights are attached to his feet and every- and the flesh thrown away. There is thing must be strong. Once he is down, plenty of food fish aboard the luggers and both he and the lugger drift with the tide, the divers bring up crayfish. The pearl and as he drifts along the sandy bottom, he oyster feeds on young crayfish and other reaches down and catches the pearl shell in food as it drifts along. Ulrich has brought the rear, lifts it and puts it in his bag out his younger brother as an assistant and which is attached to him. When the bag expects to go in business for himself. They is full, he gives the signal and is hauled took quite a fancy to Joe and loaded him up. He is careful not to put his hand on up with pearl shells. They also promised the front of the shell, which is as sharp as to secure him a number of native weapons. a razor, and then too he might get his fin- After our visit we walked up as far as gers nipped. The diver is not afraid of the jail, and could see the big open yard sharks, and can usually frighten them off, with the prisoners behind the bars. It was but lately whales have proved a great Sunday and we were not allowed to go nuisance, for they swim about with the through the prison. luggers for company and are liable to get Aboard the Paroo there was one adven- fouled with the air pipe. These air pipes turous soul who told Joe the story of a are specially built and cost about a pound native criminal six feet seven inches high, a foot. In the old days, when the Malays and of another who was a black tracker and natives used to dive without helmets or policeman, who had his wife stolen by a and stayed down three or four minutes, white man. Hitherto he had been a faith- there were several cases were divers were ful black, but he killed the man who stole disemboweled by sharks and lost an arm his wife and every other white man he or a leg. could sight with his rifle. He found an It would cost probably a thousand accomplice and they stole many hundreds pounds to properly outfit a pearling lugger. of rounds of ammunition. They hid in a The lugger itself would cost three or four series of caves. The caves were surrounded, hundred pounds. An advance of a hundred but he escaped through a tunnel in an un- pounds would have to be made to the derground well. He defied the authorities THE MID-PACIFIC 449

and killed many men. He was at last sur- The shield is used by the native to ward off rounded, and was fired at, nine bullets tak- spears. He will stand perfectly still and ing effect. He shot a number of .police- ward off spear after spear without moving men and then his ammunition gave out. an inch ; in fact, the natives like duels of Even with the nine bullets in him he still this sort. The boomerangs are made to . defied the white men and said if he had curl several times. ammunition he would kill them all. He soon expired. It was nearly eleven o'clock at night In the afternoon, despite •the fact that a when we got back to the boat. When we seven-foot shark was swimming up and awoke in the morning we were well out down near the jetty, we went in for a to sea. There is an electric fan in the swim. The water was lukewarm but re- room and some nights at-4o this was so turned freshing. At dinner time an alleged Ameri- that the current of air passed directly over can newspaper man called on me. He my uncovered stomach. In the morning I was pretty well tanked. He sat down woke with violent pains in the abdomen, at the table with us, but I escaped and I remembered that every sensible per- with Joe and went to church. A little son in this climate winds a cloth about the church with all windows and everyone in stomach while he sleeps, and the men in white except ourselves. After church, Mr. the army and navy are compelled to do so. Lurich insisted on scrimmaging around Diseases in this climate always begin in the until he got some native weapons. Two stomach, and that must be taken care of. small boomerangs were the most interest- This morning Joe woke up with terrific ing. There was a shield, two feet loin pains in his poi opu, for that night the by about six inches wide, and two heavy direct current of air passed over his stom- clubs. These were all made of mangrove ach. It is a good thing once in a while with mud rubbed in to fill the cracks. The for some force to take a hand in convincing heavy clubs are thrown a great distance Joe. I believe now he will be willing to and when they strike they break a bone. keep his stomach covered at night.

Slone in Australia. 450 THE MID-PACIFIC Beautiful Mount Egmont.

Taranaki, the Wonderland

By W. G. WILSON

OVERNOR HOBSON called the navigator, Kupe, and his crew, who called Taranki country, "the Garden of it "Pukehaupapa," which Mr. Suffern in G New Zealand. Then it was forest his history of Taranaki translates as the primeval. It is still the garden of New "Ice-clad Hill." That is estimated to have Zealand, but much of the forest has ceased happened some six or seven centuries ago. to be primeval. The further description of Cook is in- It is a country typical of the scenic style teresting, because in his usual practical of Maoriland, unique in the scenery of the style. "It lies near the sea, and is sur- world. Like most of the district in these rounded by a flat country of a pleasant ap- "fortunate isles" the scenery is dominated pearance, being clothed with verdure and by mountain shapes. Every landscape cen- wood, which renders it the more conspicu- ters in a wonderful cone, and from the sea ous." He added : "The shore under it forms the traveller has it ever in his satisfied eye. a large cape, which I have named Cape Seen from Hawera the beauty of the moun- Egmont." At the same time he named the tain is greatest. mountain Mount Egmont. Tasman saw it in 1642, and said noth- Mr. Suffern, whose story of this district ing except that he saw a mountain. Cook is so interesting and full, and who loved saw it in 1769 and described it as a "high the mountain as all the district loved it mountain greatly resembling the peak of then and does now and ever will, for the Teneriffe." But the first strange eyes set fascination of the mountain world never upon it were those of the great Maori leaves the people who dwell in the land of

451 452 THE MID-PACIFIC the great hills, has left a fine tribute to and others. There are tracks everywhere, the commanding peak. well graded and safe, and there are guides "What can be more beautiful to greet for those who wish to go off the tracks or the vision at sunrise than Mount Egmont ? to be secure in case of bad weather. The Towering aloft in the clear blue sky, old hotel is in all things modern, and on the Taranaki rears her stately snow-crowned whole, a very pleasant week can be spent head, blushing with rosy radiance beneath here. Those who prefer a more indepen- the golden kisses of the morning sun, and dent method of spending their holiday can below the snow dense foliage clothes the secure the mountain but not far off at giant with a kingly robe of verdure. Later cheap rates, and there they can arrange on in the day a belt of fleecy clouds hovers their picnic in any way they please. lovingly awhile about midway, slowly as- The other great attraction of the Taran- cending they melt away before the ardent aki district is the Mokau River trip. Opin- breath of the noonday sun." ions differ as to whether the Mokau or the The solitude of the mountain much en- Wanganui is the more picturesque stream. hances its grandeur. A fact that may be But this presents no difficulty to the understood from the descriptions of many traveler through Taranaki, as he can easily who have likened the cone of Taranaki to see both, for while the Mokau is all with- the cone of Fugiyama, and though the lat- in the district boundaries, the Wanganui ter rises to an altitude of 16,000 feet (dou- River is a portion of the southeastern boun- ble the height of Egmont), there is no dary, and can be reached from Taumarunui hint in any of their pages of lesser ma- in the ordinary way by the steamers. jesty as the portion of the smaller moun- The Mokau is picturesque and full of tain. From the summit the view is far- memories of the old race which flourished reaching, for it includes the chief moun- in these parts for seven centuries. The tains of the Dominion, the Southern Alps, beauty is of leaf and flower of tree and on a clear day, and the great characteristic shrub, of white beach and sombre rock, shacks of Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngaru- with blue of the water and blue of the hoe. As for the view of the country, tak- sky. The hills on either side are of noble ing in the coast to the Manukau, the whole proportion and glorious outline of con- of the Taranaki district, and a filmy edition trasting and unexpected curves, the special of the bulk of the Wellington province, it characteristic of New Zealand combina- is indescribable, as it is exhilarating to the tion. The reaches are splendid, and the climber to whom it is the pleasant reward gorges are wonderful, the garment of for- of his enterprise. est is rich in the extreme, and the occasional Not that it requires much enterprise views of peak and plain magnificent. nowadays. Dr. Diffenbach, the first to There is a comfortable launch for the climb the cone. made two attempts in 1830, the second of which consumed seven days of traveler, which will take him twenty miles his time. Today you can reach the moun- up the stream, and canoe launches are ready for another ten miles to the head of tain hotel, close to the snow line, in an hour and a half by motor car, and from this picturesque enjoyable navigation, the hotel the rest is easy. There are with- should he so desire. The coal workings in reach half a dozen trips, the best being of the Mokau, very famous now for of course to the crater at the summit, and many reasons, may be seen by the way, and the store of legends makes the Mokau this ladies can accomplish on foot in two to four hours. according to strength and truly a haunted stream. The road from disposition. The other attractions are Waitara to Mokau mouth over Mount Dawson's Falls, Bell Falls, the Ranges, Messenger is one of the most picturesque THE MID-PACIFIC 453

The Lake and Mountain Land of New Zealand.

One of New Zealand's Great Glaciers. 454 THE MID-PACIFIC in the whole Dominion, so rich in scenic lake. But the Maori imagination sees the magnificence. great Kupe reposing with weapons and com- New Plymouth, with its baths, its oil rades of many adventures waiting for the wells, its breakwater, its "Sugar Loaves" signal to call him back to the scene of his —one of these, Paratutu, of 600 feet, offers exploits. a delightful climb, from which stone-cut The next navigator to do geographic steps and convenient roping have removed work was, according to Maori tradition, all hazard—and its beautiful park—t,he Manaia, who came in the canoe "Toko- most fairy place in all New Zealand, and maru," and he surveyed and named the its historic memories—among the most in- points between Patea and the Waitara. A teresting and striking in the Dominion, rising township recalls the first of these offers irresistible attractions to the holiday names, while the second recalls a battle of maker. There are many trips of great doubtful issue between General Cameron's beauty and interest in the neighborhood be- forces and the enterprising Maori. sides. The flowers of this country are of The Maoris established after this first surpassing splendor. There is also mag- coming six hundred years ago or so, grew nificent trout fishing by land and great and multiplied on the lands of the ancient fishing by sea all the way from the break- inhabitants known to their traditions as water up the coast. On the whole, it is the "Ngatimokotorea," whom, finding to safe to say that he who has not dwelt be unwarlike, they exterminated duly. The awhile in in Taranaki knows little of the only sign of them given to the world was best of New Zealand, or of the best of life seen by Cook on that voyage which took therein. him within sight of Mount Egmont. Dur- The history began with the arrival of ing the night he records that he saw "sev- the Maori navigator Kupe in the canoe eral fires" on the sides of the mountain and "Aotea." He stayed awhile in the district, in the country below. A country illumi- began to harry the inhabitants, whose origin. nated, but mysterious three-quarters of a is mysterious, and whose fate was sad— century before the "first ship." Look at it they disappeared before the more hardy and now! warlike strangers. His contribution to the The first authentic account of the race history of the place was his naming of the established in the district is the account of rivers, capes, headlands, bays, peaks, and John Rutherford, the sole survivor of an plains between Wanganui and Patea. This American crew ship, "Agnes"—murdered was also the method of Cook, whose names by the Poverty Bay people before 1817. Be- remain, and whose surveys are as accurate ing expert in hunting and fishing, he was today as if made by the most modern in- admired by the Maori, and eventually made struments. It is one of the wonderful a chief, being given two wives. Very soon things about these Maori navigators that he was bitten with the mania for explor- they had the faculty of going and coming, ation, and determined to cross the island. making many voyages to and fro, between The story of the journey is told in his their starting point and the country of des- book entitled "Narrative of Ten Years' tination. Kupe it is certain made voyage Captivity by the Maoris." He started with after voyage. His figure looms large in his wife Epeka and twenty women slaves, Maori history as the chief captain of the each carrying her own rations and thirty explorers. Even now he is supposed to he pounds of potatoes for the general use, and resting in his canoe, surrounded by his driving before her a "porker" (poaka), crew, at the bottom of Lake Waikaremo- held by a string of flax. (N. B.—Compare ana. To the ordinary eve it is only a with the picnics of today by motor car and big rock seen through the clear water of the train.) There was an armed party of men, THE MID-PACIFIC 455

of course. Traveling "sometimes by land ous to mention. These all did their part in and sometimes by water" (an enigmatical the making of the land. Under their hands sentence), they arrived in a month at "a the constitution came into force sand grew place called Taranaki." All the unpreju- to busy life. Under their hands and those diced pakeha of today who knows the coun- of their successors the breakwater grew out try between, its ranges and its rivers, can of the surf of the ocean, and the dairy fac- say is that either they made wonderful tories rose out of the mullock of the plains. time, or that the record proves them to have In connection with the latter, one instinc- lost all idea of time. The chief point of tively thinks of Trimble—Colonel, and ad- the story is that they found the people of mirer of Gladstone, and strong apprecia- the "place called Taranaki" very flourish- tor of Sir Harry, whom he followed al- ing. But this did not last long. The ways consistently to division and beyond. Waikatoo disturbed their peace and there The railway track has proved more po- were great wars and much fighting, that tent than the rifle or the cannon, and the lasted until long after the coming of the platelayer more formidable than the armed white man. constable. Since then the country has pro- Of those earlier times of the white set- gressed from day to day after the blessed tlers, when Atkinson was fighting in the manner of the land of which it is said that field, the leading names are Bell—Francis it is blessed because it has no history. In Dillon of that name — Carrington, Rich- other words, the only true history is the mond, J. C., native minister, and so forth; story of advancement on lines of self-reliant Carlton, ripe scholar and great parliamen- tarian ; King, descendant of a great sailor endeavor in the paths of peace, through a of the Nelson day; and others too numer- country of natural wealth undeveloped.

Maori Children to the Manor Born. 456 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Hawaiian hula of old was a chaste symm-trical dance that told *n rhythm traditions old. Today, the modern ukulele has crept in as a feature of the dance and the grass skirt that was once the only costume, is now tied above the regular clothing of the present day. The Modern Hawaiian Hula.

Training the Hula Dancer

By N. B. EMERSON.

HE hula' stood for very much to chiefs and people; and it was sung. The the ancient Hawaiian ; it was to Hawaiian song, its note of joy par excel- Tlim in place of our concert hall and lence, was the on; bu it must be noted that lecture room, our opera and our theatre, in every species of Hawaiian poetry, mele and thus became one of his chief means —whether epic or eulogy or prayer, sound- of social enjoyment. Besides this, it kept ing through them all we shall find the lyric the communal imagination in touch with note. the nation's legendary past. The hula had The most telling record of a people's in- songs proper to itself, but it found a mine timate life is the record which it unconsci- of inexhaustable wealth in the epics and ously makes in its songs. This record wonder-myths that celebrated the doings of which the Hawaiian people have left of the volcano goddes Pele and her compeers. themselves is full and specific. When, Thus in the cantillations of the old-time transferred, we ask what emotions stirred hula we find a ready-made anthology that in the heart of the old-time Hawaiian as includes every species of composition in he approached the great themes of life and the whole range of Hawaiian poetry. This death, of ambition and jealousy, of sexual epic of Pele was chiefly a more or less de- passion, of romantic love, of conjugal love tached series of poems forming a story and parental love; what his attitude to- addressed not to the closet reader, but to ward nature and the dread forces of earth- the eye, ear and heart of the assembled quake and storm, and the mysteries of spirit

457 458 THE MID-PACIFIC and the hereafter, we shall find our-answer art. At that moment in came little Hiiaka, in the songs and prayers and recitations of the youngest and the favorite. Unknown to her sisters, the little maiden had prac- the hula. The hula, it is true, has been unfortu- tised the dance under the tuition of her nate in the mode and manner of its intro- friend, the beautiful but ill-fated Hopoe. duction to us moderns. An institution of When banteringly invited to dance, to the divine—that is, religious—origin, the hula surprise of all, Hiiaka modestly complied. in modern times has wandered far and The wave-beaten sandbeach was her floor, fallen so loyv that foreign and critical es- the open air her hall. Feet and hands im- teem has come to associate it with the riot- and swaying form kept time to her ous and passionate ebullitions of Polynesian provisation: kings and the amorous posturing of their Look, Puna is a-dance in the wind; voluptuaries. We must make a just dis- The palm groves of Kea-au shaken. tinction, however, between the gestures and Haena and the woman Hopoe dance and bodily contortions presented by the men sing and women, the actors of the hula, and On the beach Nana-huki, their uttered words. In truth, the actors A dance of purest delight, in the hula no longer suit the action to Down by the sea Nana-huki. the word. The utterance harks back to the One turns from the study of old gene- golden age; the gesture is trumped up by alogies, myths, and traditions of the Ha- the passion of the hour, or dictated by the waiians with a hungry despair at finding master of the hula, to whom the real mean- in them means so small for picturing the ing of the old bards is ofttimes a sealed people themselves, their human interests casket. and passions; but when it comes to the hula Whatever indelicacy attaches in modern and the whole train of feelings and senti- times to some of the gestures and contor- ments that made their entrances and exits tions of the hula dancers, the old-time hula (the hall of the hula), one songs in large measure were untainted with in the halau perceives that in this he has found the door grossness. If there ever were a Polynesian to the heart of the people. So intimate Arcadia, and if it were possible for true and of so simple confidence are the reve- reports of the doings and sayings of the lations the people make of themselves in Polynesians to reach us from that happy their songs and prattlings, that when one land—reports of their joys and sorrows, undertakes to report what he has heard and their love-makings and their jealousies, their family spats and reconciliations, their to translate into the terms of modern speech what he has received in confidence, worship of beauty and of the gods and goddesses who walked in the garden of as it were, he almost blushes, as if he had beauty—we may say, I think, that such a been guilty of spying on Adam and Eve in report would be in substantial agreement their nuptial bower. In building a halau, or hall, in which with the report that is here offered ; but, if one's virtue will not endure the love- to perform the hula a Hawaiian of the old, old time was making a temple for his god. making of Arcadia, let him banish the myth from his imagination and hie to a In later ,and degenerate ages almost any structure would serve the purpose; it convent or a nunnery. For an account of the first hula we may might be a flimsy shed or an extemporan- such as is used to shelter that look to the story of Pele. On one occasion eous lanai luau. But in that goddess begged her sisters to dance al fresco entertainment, the and sing before her, but they all excused the old times of strict tabu and rigorous eti- quette, when the chief had but to lift his themselves, saying they did not know the THE MID-PACIFIC 459

hand and the entire population of a district the breach of discipline was gross and will- ransacked plain, valley and mountain to ful, an act of outrageous violence or the collect the poles, beams, thatch and cord- neglect of tabu, the offender could be re- stuff; when the workers were so numerous stored only after penitence and concession. that the structure grew and took shape in In every halau stood the kuahu, or altar, a day, we may well believe that ambitious as the visible temporary abode of the deity, and punctilious patrons of the hula, such as whose presence was at once the inspiration La'a, Liloa, or Lono-i-ka-makahiki, did not of the performance and the luck-bringer of allow the divine art of Laka to house in a the enterprise—a rustic frame embowered barn. in greenery. The gathering of the green The choice of a site was a matter of leaves and other sweet finery of nature for prime importance. A formidable code its construction and decoration was a mat- enunciated the principles governing the ter of so great importance that it could not selection. But—a matter of great solici- be intrusted to any chance assemblage of tude — there were omens to be heeded, youth who might see fit to take the work snares and pitfalls devised by the supersti- in hand. There were formalities that must tious mind for its own entanglement. The be observed, songs to be chanted, prayers untimely sneeze, the ophthalmic eye, the to be recited. It was necessary to bear in hunched back were omens to be shunned. mind that when one deflowered the woods Within historic times, since the abro- of their fronds of ie-ie and fern, or tore gation of the tabu system and the lessening the trailing lengths of maik—albeit in of the old polytheistic ideas, there has been honor of Laka herself—the body of the in the hula a lowering of former standards, goddess was being despoiled, and the des- in some respects a degeneration. The old poiling must be done with grace and eti- gods, however; were not entirely de- quette. throned ; the people of the hula still con- Among decorations approved and most tinued to maintain the form of divine ser- highly esteemed stood pre-eminent the fra- vice and still appealed to them for good grant maile and the star-like fronds and luck; but the soul of worship had exhaled; ruddy drupe of the ie-ie and its kindred, the main study now was to make of the the halapepe; the scarlet pompons of the hula a pecuniary success. lehua and ohi'a, with the fruit of the lat- During the time the halau was building, ter (the mountain-apple) ; many varieties the tabus and rules that regulated conduct of fern, including that splendid parasite, were enforced with the utmost strictness. the "bird's nest fern" (ekaha), hailed by The members of the company were re- the Hawaiians as Mawi's paddle; to which quired to maintain the greatest propriety must be added the commoner leaves and of demeanor, to suppress all rudeness of lemon-colored flowers of the native hibis- speech and manner, to abstain from all car- cus, the hau, the breadfruit, the native nal indulgence, to deny themselves speci- banana and the dracaena (ti), and lastly, fied articles of food, and above all, to avoid richest of all, in the color that became Ha- contact with a corpse. If anyone, even by waii's favorite, the royal yellow ilima, a accident, suffered such defilement, before flower familiar to the eyes of the tourist being received again into fellowship or to Honolulu. permitted to enter the halau and take part "While deft hands are building and in the exercises he must have ceremonial weaving the light framework of the kuahu, cleansing (huikala). The kumu offered binding its parts with strong vines and up prayers, sprinkled the offender with salt decorating it with nature's sumptuous em- water and turmeric, commanded him to broidery, the kumu, or teacher, under the bathe in the ocean, and he was clean. If inspiration of the diety, for whose resi- 463 THE MID- PACIFIC dence he has prepared himself by long and rubbing his eyes, rheumy with debauch vigil and fasting with fleshy abstinence, and awa, overhears remark on the doings having spent the previous night alone in of a new company of hula dancers who the halau, is chanting or cantillating his have come into the neighborhood. He sum- adulatory prayers, kanaenae — songs of mons his chief steward. praise they seem to be—to the glorification "What is this new thing of which they of the gods and goddesses who are invited babble?" he demands. to bless the occasion with their presence "It is nothing, son of heaven," answers and inspiration, but especially of that one, the kneeling steward. Laka, whose bodily presence is symbolized "They spoke of a hula. Tell me, what by a rude block of wood arrayed in yellow is it?" tapa that is set up on the altar itself. "Ah, thou heaven-born (lani), it was In ancient times the hula to a large ex- but a trifle—a new company, young grad- tent was a creature of royal support, and uates of the halau, have set themselves up for good reason. The actors in this insti- as great ones ; mere rustics; they have no tution were not producers of life's neces- proper acquaintance with the traditions of saries. To- the alii belonged the land and the art as taught by the bards of your the sea and all the useful products thereof. majesty's father. They mouth and twist Even the jetsam whale-tooth and wreck- the old songs all awry, thou son of age scraps of iron that ocean cast up on heaven." the shore were claimed by the lord of the "Enough. I will hear them tomorrow. land. Everything was the king's. Thus it Send a messenger for this new kumu. Fill followed of necessity that the support of again my bowl with awa." the hula must in the end rest upon the alii. Thus it comes about that the new hula As in ancient Rome it was a senator or company gains audience at court and walks general, enriched by the spoil of a province, the road that, perchance, leads to fortune. who promoted the sports of the arena, so in Success to the men and women of the hula ancient Hawaii it was the chief or head- means not merely applause, in return for man of the district who took the imitative the incense of flattery; it means also a in the promotion of the people's com- shower of substantial favors—food, gar- munistic sports and of the hula. ments, the smile of royalty, perhaps land. We must not imagine that the hula was The performers in the hula were di- a thing only of king's courts and chiefish vided into two classes, the olapa — agile residences. It had another and democratic ones — and the ho'o-paa — steadfast ones. side. The passion for the hula was broad- The role of olapa, as was fitting, was as- spread. If other agencies failed to meet signed to the young men and young women the demand, there was nothing to prevent who could best illustrate in their persons a company of enthusiasts from joining the grace and beauty of the human form. themselves together in the pleasures and, It was theirs, sometimes, also to punctuate it might be, the profits of the hula. Their their song and action with the lighter in- spokesman — designated as the po'o-puaa, struments of music. The role of ho'o-paa, from the fact that a pig, or a boar's head, on the other hand, was given to men and was required of him as an offering at the women of greater experience and of more huahu—was authorized to secure the ser- maturity. They handled the heavier in- vices of some expert to be their kumu. But istrumnts and played their parts mostly with the hula all roads lead to the king's while sitting or kneeling, marking the time court. with their instrumentation. They also lent Let us imagine a scene at the king's resi- their voices to swell the chorus or utter the dence. The alii, rousing from his sloth refrain of certain songs, sometimes taking THE MID-PACIFIC 461

the lead in the song or bearing its whole the bare authority of the kumu would have burden, while the light-footed olapa gave sufficed to maintain discipline and to keep themselves entirely to the dance. The part order, had it not be re-enforced by the of the ho'o-paa was indeed the heavier, dread powers of the spirit world in the the more exacting duty. shape of the tabu. Such was the personnel of a hula troupe The awful grasp of this law, this re- when first gathered by the hula-master for pressive force, the tabu, held fast the stu- training and drill in the halau, now be- dent from the moment of his entrance into come a school for the hula. Among the the halau. It denied this pleasure, shut pupils the kumu was sure to find some old off that innocent indulgence, curtailed lib- hands at the business, whose presence, like erty in this direction and in that. The that of veterans in a squad of recruits, was tabu waved before his imagination like a a leaven to inspire the whole company flaming sword, barring approach to the with due respect for the spirit and tradi- Eden of his strongest propensity. tions of the historic instil ution and to The rules and discipline of the halau, breed in the members the patience neces- the school for the hula, from our point of sary to bring them to the highest pro- view, were a mixture of shrewd common- ficiency. sense and whimsical superstition. Under The instruction of the kumu, as we are the head of tabus certain articles of food informed, took a wide range. It dwelt in were denied ; for instance, the sugar-cane- elaborate detail on such matters as accent, ko—was forbidden. The reason assigned inflection, and all that concerns utterance was that if one indulged in it his work as and vocalization. It naturally paid great a practitioner would amount to nothing. attention to gesture and pose, attitude and The argument turned on the double mean- bodily action. That it included comment ing of the word "ko," the first meaning on the meaning that lay back of the words being sugar-cane, the second, accomplish- may be gravely doubted. The average hula ment. The Hawaiians were much impres- dancer of modern times shows great ignor- sed by such whimsical nominalisms. Yet ance of the mele he recites, and this is true there is a backing of good sense to the rule. even of the kumu-hula. His work too Anyone who has chewed the sweet stalk often is largely perfunctory, a matter of can testify that for some time thereafter his sound and form, without appeal to the voice is rough, ill-fitted for singing or intellect. elocution. It would not be legitimate, however, to The strictest propriety and decorum were conclude from this that ignorance of the exacted of the pupils; there must be no meaning was the rule in old times. Those license whatever. Even married people, were the days when the nation's traditional during the weeks preceding graduation, songs, myths, and lore formed the equip- must observe abstinence toward their part- ment of every alert and receptive mind, ners. The whole power of one's being chief or commoner. There was no printed must be devoted to the pusuit of art. page to while away the hours of idleness. The rules demanded also the most The library was stored in one's memory. punctilious personal cleanliness. Above The language of the mele, which has now all things, one must avoid contact with a become antiquated, then was familiar corpse. Such defilement barred one from speech. entrance to the halau until ceremonial Without a body of strict rules, and a cleansing had been performed. The of- firm hand it would have been impossible to fender must bathe in the ocean ; the kumu keep order and do the work of the or- then aspersed him with holy water, ut- ganization. It may well be doubted if tered a prayer, ordered a penalty, an offer- 462 THE MID-PACIFIC ing to the kuahu, and declared the offender Still another exercise of song and dance, clean. This done, he was again received and the wearied pupils are glad to seek into fellowship at the halau. repose. Some will not even remove the The ordinary penalty for a breach of short dancing skirts that are girded about ceremony or an offense against sexual mor- them, so eager are they to snatch an hour ality was the offering of a baked porkling of rest; and some lie down with bracelets with awa. Since the introduction of money, and anklets yet unclasped. the penalty has generally been reckoned on At daybreak the kumu rouses the com- a commercial basis; a money fine is im- pany with the tap of the drum. After ab- posed. The offering of pork and awa is lutions, before partaking of their simple retained as a concession to tradition. breakfast, the company stand before the The ai-lol rite and ceremony marked the altar and recite a tabu-removing prayer, ac- consummation of a pupil's readiness for companying the cantillation with a rhyth- graduation from the school of the halau, mic tapping of feet and clapping of hands. and his formal entrance into the guild of This was followed by a necessary re- hula dancers. As the time drew near, the past, called olohe. The porkling, called kumu tightened the reins of discipline, and the al-lolo, must needs be without blemish, for a few days before that event no pupil and black. The kumu holds it down, the might leave the halau save for the most pupils place their hands on his while he stringent necessity, and thin only with the expounds the meaning of the ceremony. head muffled (pulo'u) to avoid recognition, After the long ceremony of prayers and and he might engage in no conversation song, the offering is made ready for them. whatever outside the halau. The first duty of the day is the dis- The night preceding the day of ai-lolo mantling of the old kuahu, and the build- was devoted t6 special services of dance and ing of a new. The halau is also decorated song. Some time after midnight the whole afresh, after which the pupils are given a company went forth to plunge into the chance to bathe and refresh themselves. ocean, thus to purge themselves of any lurk- They use their short leave to gather ing ceremonial impurity. The progress to wreaths of maile, crocus-yellow ilima, the ocean and the return they made in scarlet-flaming lehua, fern and what not. complete nudity. "Nakedness is the garb The offering is brought in from the imu, of the gods." On their way to and from and the company breaks out into songs co the bath they must not look back, they the goddess Laka. After these have been must not turn to the right hand nor to the sung comes the pith of the ceremony. left. The novitiates sit down to the feast of The kumu, as the priest, remained at the ai-lol, theirs the place of honor, at the halau, and as the procession returned from head of the table, next the kuahu. The the ocean he met it at the door and sprin- ho'o-pa'a, acting as carver, selects the typ- kled each one (pikai) with holy water. ical parts—snout, ear-tips, tail, feet, por- Then came another period of dance and tions of the vital organs, especially the song; and then, having contillated a pule brain (/o/). This last it is which gives hoonoa, to lift the tabu, the kumu went name to the ceremony. He sets an equal forth to his own ceremonial cleansing bath portion before each novitiate. Each one in the sea. During his absence his deputy, must eat all that is set before him. It is the kokua kumu, took charge of the halau. a mystical rite, a sacrament ; as he eats he When the kumu reached the door on his consciously partakes of the virtue of the return, he made himself known by recit- goddess that is transmitted to himself. ing a mele wehe puka, the conventional The ceremony now reaches a new password. stage. The kumu lifts the tabu by utter- THE MID-PACIFIC 463 ing a prayer—always a song—and declares to make their bow to the waiting public the place and the feast free, and the whole outside, to bid for the favor of the world. assembly sit down to enjoy the bounty that This is to be their "little go ;" they will is spread up and down the halau. On this spread their wings for a greater flight on occasion men and women may eat in com- the morrow. mon. The only articles excluded from tihs The kumu, with his big drum, and the feast are luau—a food much like spinach, musicians, the ho'o-pa'a, pass through the made by cooking the young- and delicate door and take their places outside in the taro leaf—and the drupe of the hala, the lanai, where sit the waiting multitude. At pandanus. the tap of the drum the group of waiting The company sit down to eat and to olapa plume themselves like fine birds eager drink ; presently they rise to dance and to show their feathers ; and, as they pass sing. The kumu leads in a tabu-lifting, out the halau door and present themselves freedom-giving song, and the ceremony of to the breathless audience, into every pose ai-lolo is over. The pupils have been and motion of their gliding, swaying fig- graduated from the school of the halau ; ures they pour a full tide of emotion in they are now members of the great guild studied and unstudied effort to captivate of dancers. The time has come for them the public.

Hula Dancers of Honolulu. 464 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Kokoburro or Laughing Jackass is the real bird of Australia. At sunrise and sunset, gathered in flocks, he sends forth his peal of laughter that makes the country round resound with his long merry taunting peal, that always fools the newcomer. The Black Swan of. West Australia.

Birds of Australia

By J. A. LEACH, D. Sc.

OTWITHSTANDING popular running birds that cannot fly; mocking- ideas to the contrary, Australia is birds and ventriloquists, and birds that N a land very rich in bird life. Not laugh ; screeching cockatoos and chattering, only are Australian birds numerous an I gaudy parrots; noisy babblers and singing varied, but they are of great scientific in- magpies; magnificent eagles and beautiful terest. pigeons; brilliant honeyeaters and noisy There are birds of beautiful and gor- cuckoos, and a great variety of sing- geous plumage, birds of excellence in song, ing birds. There are fern-haunting lyre- birds of unique habits; birds that make a birds and tiny, brilliant tree-top dwell- play-house as well as a nest; mound-build- ers, in addition to close relatives of almost ing birds that never sit on their eggs ; large every common European bird.

465 466 THE MID-PACIFIC

For the following reasons, among others, spread family of birds but two is found in Australian birds are of interest: Australia. The only notable absentees First, Australia is a southern land, and from Australia are vultures and wood- southern lands are the great centers of peckers." Birds are flying animals, and can bird life. Thus the South American re- easily pass over long distances, so that it gion has twenty-three families of birds that is not a matter for surprise that Australia are not found beyond its borders. The is so fortunate in this connection. African region has fourteen families of The fourth reason is that certain birds birds peculiar to it; while to the Australian found in other countries are most numer- region eighteen families are restricted. ous in kinds in the Australian region, On the other hand, northern lands have which includes Australia, New Zealand, few birds confined to them. Thus the New Guinea, and the islands as far west North American region has but one pe- as Celebes. Chief amongst these birds culiar faimly of birds—the three small might be mentioned parrots and cockatoos, wren-tilts; the Indian region has also but kingfishers, pigeons and flycatchers. About one peculiar faimly—the broadbills ; while one-half of the members of each of these the large area of Europe, Asia, and the groups is found in the Australian region. Atlas Mountains of northwest Africa, con- The fifth reason is an unexpected one. stituting the one biological (Palaearctic) Australia is often spoken of as a "fossil region, -contains not even one peculiar fam- continent." It is said to be inhabited by ily of birds. primitive forms and by representatives of Again, the African region contains mem- animals and plants that have become ex- bers of 97 families of birds, the Australian tinct in other lands. While this may be region 94, the South American 93, the In- true as regards mammals—animals which dian 90, the Palaearctic 73, the North suckle their young—it is not correct con- American 69, and the Australian continent cerning birds. True, there are primitive itself 80 families of birds. birds; but Australia has, in addition, the While all but eleven of the families of most higly developed and specialized of birds found in Britain are represented in birds, for, of the four families placed at Australia, 34 of the Australian families are the head of the bird world in Dr. Sharpe's not represented in Britain. Further, while "Hand-list of Birds," containing the latest Britain can claim but one kind of bird— classification, the members of three families the red grouse—as peculiar to it, Tasmania, are found only in Australia and the neigh- which may be considered the southern ana- boring islands; members of the fourth— logue of Britain, claims no less than the crow family—are found almost all over twenty-one peculiar species of birds. the world. These three peculiar Austral- Secondly, the primitive birds—the less ian families are the gorgeous birds of para- specialized forms—are best represented in dise, the marvelous bower birds, and the Australia. They are absent from northern interesting bell magpies (Streparas). Thus lands. These include the emu and casso- Australia can claim to possess the highest wary of Australia, the kiwi of New Zea- types of bird life. land, the ostrich of South Africa, and the The sixth reason for the interest of rhea or South American ostrich. Thus Australian birds is that there is an un- Australia has two of the five families of usual number of song birds. living flightless running birds. The mound- Thus, of the 49 families of birds building mallee fowl and brush turkeys, grouped as "Song Birds," the Australian and the lyre-birds, are also considered region contains representatives of 33 fam- ancient forms. ilies, the Indian region 30, the African 29, The third reason is that "every widely the Palaearctic 26, the North American THE MID -PACIFIC 467

23, the South American 23, the Indian thought "its wonderfully modulated whis- Empire 22, Britain 19, and the mainland tle was unequaled amongst European of Australia 29 families of song birds. birds." Australia is also rich in the number of The mallee fowl is one of the wonders kinds of song birds. Britain has but 89 of the bird creation, for it does not sit on kinds which, are "permanent residents" or its eggs, but leaves them to be hatched by "regular visitors," while over 460 kinds the heat of the decomposition of the vege- have already been described from Aus- table matter contained in its big nesting tralia. One hundred and fifty-seven kinds mound. of these have been recorded from Victoria. The marvelous bower birds, the most Yet it has been stated that Australia is a extraordinary of bird architects, are fortu- land of "songless birds." nately common in parts of Australia. A. J. Again — Australian birds are of great North, ornithologist of the Australian economic value as insect destroyers. John Musuem, considers them "without excep- Gould, the bird man, said: "In no other tion the most extraordinary and interesting country is there a greater. proportion of group of birds in the world." insectivorous birds, and certainly none in The Australian eagle is one of the finest which nocturnal species are more numer- and largest of eagles, though it is- generally ous." spoken of as an eaglehawk. Gould said it Many Australian birds are identical has a "far more pleasing and elegant con- with British birds. These are mainly birds tour than that of the golden eagle." The that range widely, such as ocean, shore, la- golden eagle is 32 inches long, while the goon, and plain frequenting birds. They Australian eagle is 38 inches from the tip include, amongst others, petrels, grebes, of the tail to the tip of the bill. gulls, terns, plovers, and curlews. Having shown that Australian birds are Some Australian birds are "representa- varied and are interesting, let us rapidly re- tives" or close relatives of British birds. view the chief Australian groups, remarking They are slightly modified, but are still on such as require it. similar in habits and form, and sometimes Birds are divided into two main divisions. even in color. Thus the herons, cormor- In the first division are the more primitive ants, hawks, owls, rails, water-hens, reed- forms, mostly large flightless running bird:;, warblers, thrushes, pipits, and many other such as the emu. In the second division are birds of Australia are closely similar to the flying birds, which have a keel or ridge the corresponding European birds. on the breastbone. As already seen, Austra- Further, Australia possesses some unique lia has two (emus and cassowaries) of the and interesting birds. Thus the black five families of flightless birds. Australia swan has become a favorite the world thus has a full share of these interesting over, the lyre-bird is the "prince of mock- southern forms. ing birds," the laughing kingfisher (kooka- The Australian members of the larger burra) is a jolly bird, and is loved by group of flying birds are divided into twent- Australians; it is adapting itself even to ty orders, which, with the emu order, make city life. Its scientific name, gigas, is well twenty-one of the world's thirty-six orders deserved, for it is the giant of the king- of birds found in Australia. First of the fisher family. flying birds come the "scratchers," which The Australian magpie, the "white crow are known to all. The common domestic that sings," is one of the world's famous fowls and turkeys are members of this songsters. Gould considered it "beyond the group. Quails belong to the pheasant fam- power .of his pen to describe the note of ily, and are also placed in this order. The this bird," while Alfred Russel Wallace Australian mound-builders — mallee fowl 468 THE MID-PACIFIC and brush turkeys—more than compensate Penguins are especially numerous in Ant- for the absence of true pheasants from arctic seas, but are not found north of the Australia. The young mallee fowl leaves Equator. the mound fully feathered, able to run at In order eight ocean birds are placed. once, and able to fly the same day. The southern hemisphere, with its great The third order of Australian birds con- expanse of open water, is the headquarters tains only the 27 bastard quail, which, ex- of these birds, which are grouped into four cept one—the Australian plain wanderer— families: The 25 storm petrels; the 75 pe- have no hind toe. The females are larger trels, stearwaters, and fulmars ; the three and brighter in this group of birds; they diving petrels, and the seventeen noble do the fighting and choosing of mates. The albatrosses. These are true. ocean birds, males do the domestic work, such as sitting some of which visit the land only to nest. on the eggs and educating the young. Storm petrels—Mother Carey's chickens Meanwhile, the female has found another —were considered birds of ill-omen by sai:- mate, and another clutch of eggs is left to on-, for in the wildest storm, when danger the male. threatened, these small birds appeared to In order four the "cooers"—pigeons and enjoy themselves and to walk on the sea as doves—are placed. These birds, as already they topped the waves. They were hence mentioned, are most numerous in the Aus- called petrels, after St. Peter. They nest tralian region. The common bronzewings in large numbers on Mud Island, just in- of Australia are amongst the most beautiful side the entrance to Port Phillip Bay, and of pigeons. en other islands along the Australian coast In order five the long-toed land and wa- Petrels are interesting birds, and are of ter rails, and the swamp-loving water hens economic value to dwellers on the Bast. and coots are grouped. Conditions of life Strait Islands. The remarkable colony of about swamps are probably much the same, people on Cap Barren Island, northeast of whether the swamp be in Australia or in Tasmania, depends on these birds (mutton Asia, for these swamp-dwelling birds are birds) just as our mallee farmers depend almost cosmopolitan. Thus the common on the wheat harvest. The "mutton bird" water hen of Australia is the representative harvest for 1909 oiven by Littler in his of the British moor hen or water hen. Simi- valuable "Birds of Tasmania" as 555,000 larly, the Australian coot resembles the birds, valued at about £4000. The petrels British and American birds. depart each year. Possibly they travel up In order six come the grebes; these birds the Pacific Ocean even to Behring Sea. likewise are almost cosmopolitan. The They nest on Cape Woolamai, less than great crested grebe of Britain is identical 40 miles from Melbourne. with the great crested grebe of Australia. Albatrosses are interesting flyers. They This bird, though a poor flyer, on account have a bigger wing span than any other of its short wings, and ill-adapted for walk- bird, although they are not so large as the ing, has spread throughout the eastern hemi- condors of America. Records of fourteen- sphere, even to New Zealand. Grebes feet span have been made. The birds turn suually called divers, are almost helpless on and wheel around a vessel without a flap land, but are very quick in the water. of the wings. They are said to wait for the flash of the In order nine the shore birds are grouped. cap, and to dive before the bullet can There are two families of these birds: The reach them. gulls and terns (sea swallows) and the Penguins, those interesting southern skua gulls, bold sea pirates. While there birds, occupy order seven. The wines are are but two kinds of gulls on the Austra- modified for swimming, and not for flying. lian coast, nine kinds are found in Britain. THE MID-PACIFIC 469

Some of the British terns are identical with quitoes, abound in myriads. Cranberries Australian terns ; they are powerful flyers, and other fruits have been preserved in and have spread round the world. They the great natural ice chamber. There is retire to lonely islands to nest. It was abundance of food, and birds flock there interesting to see the noddy terns in thous- in immense numbers. As the cold weather ands nesting on a small sandbank named comes on they migrate to the south, and Mast Head Island, near the Great Bar- receive from sportsmen a welcome they do rier Reef, where the members of the Royal not appreciate. Think of the annual jour- Australian Orinthologists' Union camped ney of 10,000 miles each way. Snipe, god- in October, 1910. wits, curlew, sandpipers, golden plover and The skuas that follow the bay excursion other birds know no winter, as they pass steamers to Queenscliff and Sorrento are from hemisphere to hemisphere. The stone the Arctic skuas of Britain. They breed curlew and the bastard (wild turkey) also in the far cold north and travel south each belong to this group; they do not leave Aus- year. tralia in winter. The interesting native companion—the Order ten contains the wading birds of Australian crane—is our one representative shores and lagoons. These are mostly cos- of the true cranes. Large flockg of these mopolitan, for they wander widely. Many birds once indulged in their quaint dances are identical with European birds. Indeed, and corroborees on Australian plains. They these are properly northern forms, for more destroyed some wheat, though they did than half of the fifty Australian plover-like much good for most of the year. Austra- birds nest in far-away Siberia. There, lian farmers often kill a bird which it when the ice melts, insects, such as mos- would pay well to protect. 470 THE MID-PACIFIC

Puget Sound is the water ideal for cruising in small steamers or in launches, only the Inland Sea of Japan in all the world can rival it for beauty, and no inland water is so surrounded with ma- jestic mountains and awe-compelling scenes. LS

11. I I II In.:47 E.71,77.11

One of the Seattle Ferry Boats.

Picturesque Puget Sound

By R. H. NIATTISON

N MANY ways Puget Sound may be and avenues of cherry trees that shed their compared to the Inland Sea of Japan ; pink showers during the month of April. I its scenery is much more majestic and The innumerable islands are tiny, many of awe-inspiring; it is rugged, and grand and them with but a single grotesque pine tree sublime, where that of the Inland Sea is that catches and holds the vision. All is delectable and interesting. the beauty of the painted picture book, and The mountains that surround Puget everywhere the populace and the quaint Sound are snow-capped and seem to dare sailing craft are in keeping with the arti- the most hardy soul to scale their heights. ficial tone. The mountains that surround the Inland As God made the Puget Sound country, Sea are verdure-clad to the summit, and so it stands today, save in a few spots seem to entice and invite even the most where man has disfigured it with the timid to roam up their gentle slopes. Every- "upturned dry-goods boxes" the Ameri- where on the water's edge of the Inland cans call homes. Where there is a Sea are picturesque temples and grass- city, it is all business front, and high build- thatched houses that blend with the scenery, ings, bustle, confusion and energy, and the

471 472 THE MID-PACIFIC racing to and fro. To those who will leave resorts throughout the Puget Sound the cities of Puget Sound behind, and take country. seriously the charm of this wonderful In- From the wild and unexplored Olympic land Sea of America, there is an all per- Peninsula, which is a paradise for sports- vading sublimity which cannot be evaded; men and mountaineers, stretching along the it enthralls more and more the city man western boundary of the Sound waters, who gets away from the haunts of energy through the beautiful and rich country of and delves into those regions yet untouched western Washington, around to the splen- by the hands of humans. did Cascade Moutains, the pleastant valleys and snow-fed rivers of the eastern shores— From Vancouver, Victoria, and Seattle northward to Vancouver Island, and along and Tacoma, there are lines of steamers the coast of Juan de Fuca Straits, there are that take all who would rest, on crui....3 of numberless places to go and an endless va- days and weeks; to where the great inlets riety of things to do, all of which make and fiords and rivers may be studied and special appeal to the habits and tastes of enjoyed from the decks of the steamer. The all classes. These resorts range from the expense of these cruises including food and most modern and luxurious to the camp in service does not exceed five dollars a day, the heart of the wildwood, on the banks of and it is as though you were floating on a a purling stream or close to tide-washed moving hotel. There are ocean racers that shores. The many islands that dot the ply between Vancouver, Victoria and Se- northern waters of the Sound are favorite attle, and daily ferry flyers between Seattle outing spots and have many delightful re- and Tacoma; but the first trip should be sorts for a vacation or an entire summer one of length. There is the panorama of outing—and all of these are within easy the great Northwest city, the ideal summer access to Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, Belling- resorts beyond, in the country homes of ham and other cities of the Sound country. the wealthy of Seattle, and in the distance, the tourist. ever-snow-clad Rainier, rising nearly three Lake Crescent and the Sol Duc Hot miles toward the skies from the placid wa- Springs, with their scenic splendor, consti- ters of Puget Sound. Rainier. or Mount tute the greatest attractions for health and Tacoma, as it is sometimes called,. is not pleasure outings in the Pacific Northwest. so perfect a cone as worshipped Fujiyama Situated in the heart of the Olympic Moun- of Japan, but it is more rugged, and you tains, and surrounded by magnificent snow- know that there are glaciers there that clad hills, there is no more beautiful moun- vie with those of Switzerland. tain-girt water sheet than Lake Crescent. It The country surrounding Puget Sound, is twelve miles long, from one to three miles with the many winding canals and inlets of wide and lies 500 feet above sea level. that commanding waterway, constitute an Dense green undergrowth and heavy forests unequaled summer playground, and one ca- clothe the steep banks, while the clear pable of providing amusement for vacation waters reflect the green hills and the over- seekers from every part of the country. arching skies so perfectly as to make the Its attractive features are as many as the waterline almost indistinguishable. The varying qualities of humanity and include lake is widely famed for its trout fishing, outdoor life of every manner and kind. and the mountains around it are alive with Fishing, boating, salt-water bathing, hunt- big game. ing, mountain climbing, riding, motoring Continuing upward into the Olympic and all the sports that combine to make Mountains, a fine new automobile road summer enjoyable, are found in limitless leads to Sol Duc Hot Springs, one of the number at the various pleasure and health finest and most noted health resorts in the THE MID-PACIFIC 473

West. The springs lie near the Sol Duc send, and proceed through the San Juan River, a tributary of Lake Crescent, whose Islands to the former city, and return by source is far up in the mountains. It is another route, affording the most complete a wild and picturesque stream and abounds enjoyment of this wonderful island cruise. with the largest and choicest varieties of The Beauties of Bellingham are too well trout. The Hot Springs are among the known to require extended mention. To most remarkable curative springs in the the attractions of a charming little city, world, being especially beneficial in rheu- situated under the shadow of snow-clad matic, blood and skin disorders. A perfect- mountains, and sloping to the dancing wa- ly appointed hotel, with sanatorium and ters of Bellingham Bay, are added the many bath houses in connection, will be opened features of a thoroughly delightful summer this spring, affording first-class accommoda- resort, chief of which are a climate that tions and medical attendance. cannot be equaled and ample facilities for The steamers on the Port Angeles line the enjoyment of water sports, fine roads connect with automobile stages for the re- for motoring and good hotels. sorts on Lake Crescent and the Hot Springs, Port Townsend is one of the historic and the drive along the banks of the wild places of the Sound Country. It was estab- and beautiful Elwaha River, ascending lished in the middle of the last century by gradually into the mountains is one of the the United States as the port of entry for delightful features of this trip. all Puget Sound shipping. Several military posts are located in the vicinity. Excellent Bellingham, Port Townsend and other roads, beautiful scenery and a balmy climate ports of call at the head of Puget Sound contribute to the enjoyment of summer life offer attractions of a marked quality to the here. Port Townsend has been designed vacationer, and the trip from Seattle to any The Modern Utopia, because of its many or all of these places is delightful. The attractive qualities and the boundless gifts steamers for Bellingham call at Port Town- of Nature surrounding it.

Moonlight on Puget Sound. 474 THE MID-PACIFIC Diamond Head, Honolulu.

The Paradise of the Pacific

By RONALD BUCHANAN.

HE QUESTION is often asked, officer is to make his inspection, and we must `Which is the more attractive— needs all be present and presentable. The T Honolulu or Colombo?' But there lights are still burning about the harbor, is never any doubt in the mind of the behind which the town showS up dimly, re- traveler who has seen Honolulu. It is the vealing little of its size and nothing of its Paradise of the Pacific." surpassing loveliness. Between us and the So says one of the many pamphlets issued harbor lies "the magnificent new, 14,000- by the Union Steamship Company of New ton, triple-screw, turbine steamer Tenyo Zealand in connection with the increasing'y Maru' " (I quote from the local paper), popular "All Red Route;" and after my just arrived on her maiden voyage from brief day in Honolulu I felt quite prepared Yokohama. We are lying in the roadstead, to accept the statement without much ar- awaiting the arrival of the doctor. The gument, although I had not then seen hour appointed sees us lined up on deck, Colombo. I have since visited the Indian a good-humored company, realizing perhaps port, and am now disposed to stand by the for the first time how many we are. The dictum of the guide book with something ceremony is soon over. The health officer like assurance. I accordingly adopt the passes quickly along the lines, eyeing each designation. of us critically as he goes, and ticking off It is still early morning when the bugle one by one on a little machine he holds in summons all sleepers on board the R. M. S. his right hand. Then a hearty "That'll do, "Marama" to awake, for at 6:30 the health thanks," from the purser breaks up the par-

475 476 THE MID-PACIFIC ade and we adjourn to breakfast and to of Hawaii, but we, have no time to explore preparations for the shore-going. Steaming it. We proceed to see what we can of the carefully up the narrow, reef-bound chan- city in various directions by means of a nel that forms the entrance to the harbor of series of tram rides. Honolulu has a splen- Honolulu, the "Marama" makes her way did electric tram system, and one may to her berth at Bishop's wharf, and before travel for any distance in any direction for long we are wending our several ways about five cents, with the right of transfer, with- the town. out further payment, to any branch or cross With many of us the Aquarium is the line. In this way we traverse quite a num- first objective. We, have heard much about ber of the fine, broad streets, and are de- it—have seen it described as perhaps the lighted beyond expression with the beauty finest institution of the kind in the world, of the scenery that greets the eye in every and so forth. Consequently we expect some- direction. Palms of all descriptions—the thing memorable, and we are not disap- majestic royal, the stately date, the ever- pointed. It would be quite useless to at- graceful cocoanut—line the streets through- tempt any description of the fish on view out the city; while all along the way the there. In form and coloring they surpass beautiful American and English homes look anything that the ordinary mortal has ever out from amidst their setting of tropical ventured to associate with the denizens of luxuriance. I had seen the romantic beauty the deep, and it is hardly an exaggeration of tropical vegetation before in the South to say that no where in the realm of ornith- Seas, but never had I witnessed such a de- ology or horticulture could anything be lightful blending of the best in nature and found to excel the beauty of some of these in art—the choicest works of God surround- piscatorial specimens. There are some ing and transfiguring the finest products things that must be seen to be understood, the culture and skill of man—as in Hono- and the Aquarium at Honolulu is one of lulu. them. And so we go on, from car to car and We are not allowed to forget that we are from street to street—past the Oahu Col- in the territory of Uncle Sam. Here and lege and to the beautiful Manoa Valley; there we remark the quaint intonation and back to the town, with its strange mixture characteristic pronunciation of the citizen of of the peoples of the world ; on again by the Great Republic, and everywhere we are way of the Nuuanu Valley line to the Royal called upon to wrestle with his coinage. It Mausoleum, where lies the greatest of is not easy under the best of circumstances Hawaii's dead. The Mausoleum itself is to mentally convert dollars and cents into closed against inspection. A dusky female he accustomed shillings, but when the visi- face appears at the partially opened door as :or sits down to a meal, a la carte, and en- we approach, and in response to our respect- deavors to keep abreast of his liability as ful enquiry answers somewhat curtly : "No, course by course the cents accumulate, the you can't come in here." Prince David had effort is peculiarly distressing. It is told of but lately been gathered to his fathers, ind one of our number who, in a fit of ill- the wreaths and emblems about the ddor advised generosity, invited three ladies to tell of a grief still unburied. lunch with him on shore, that his digestion Taking the car again in the direction of suffered a permanent derangement as the the Aquarium we stop at Waikiki Beach. result of his efforts to keep figuring things This is the scene of the world-famed surf- out as the meal progressed. canoeing and surf-board riding. The lat- Fronting the Aquarium lies Kapiolani ter, we are informed, is to be witnessed no Park, distinguished by a name that is asso- where else in the world, and we are disap- ciated with much that is best in the history pointed that at the time of our visit this THE MID -PACIFIC 477

particular pastime is not in progress. A It is impossible to attempt all the sights few canoes, however, are engaged in the of Honolulu in the time at a steamer pas- exhilarating game of shooting over the senger's disposal. The Punchbowl Crater, breakers seaward and returning to shore immediately at the back of the town; Dia- on the long sweep of the ocean swell. The mond Head Crater, at the eastern extrem- temperature of the water at Waikiki is said ity; the Bishop Museum, with its unrivaled to average 78 degrees the year round, and collection of Polynesian ethnological speci- as the gradual slope of the beach and the mens; the Capitol, formerly the royal pal- absence of undertow make it particularly ace, with its famous collection of oil paint- safe as a bathing place, a capsize need not ings—all these and much besides must re- be attended with serious consequences form main unexplored. And so we wend our any point of view. way back to the steamer and are given such As already indicated, Honolulu is a most a send-off as will long live in the memory. cosmopolitan city, and in this respect it The Royal Hawaiian Band is there, dis- epitomizes the characteristics of the Ha- coursing sweet music; scores of Honolulu waiian Islands as a whole. Japanese, Chi- ladies are there, all bedecked in the gor- nese, Portuguese, Americans, British, Ger- geous carnation necklaces that are such a mans, and Koreans are all largely repre- striking feature of personal adornment in sented; while of not a few other nationali- ties there is more than a sprinkling, to say this sunny land ; representatives of the sev- nothing of the native population and the eral sections of this most mixed of popu- half-whites. It is said that a certain Hono- lations are there; and amid much waving lulu resident who wished to warn tres- and shouting of farewells we steam out to passers off his section, found it necessary resume our voyage over the broad Pacific. to put up a notice in seven languages. The Honolulu passes into the realm of happy first read, "Trespassers will be prosecuted," recollection. It is a memory that will or something to that effect; the last said linger; a dream of loveliness that will not simply, "Skidoo." soon fade. 478 THE MID-PACIFIC

architecture in Chili.

Cultivation in Ecuador. A Pan-American Pact

By W. E. DUNN

HE Americas are drawing more The invitations for this conference and more closely together, the were extended through the Secretary T work of the Pan-American of State to the various Central and Union is bearing abundant fr.uit ; re- South American republics and were cor- cently the President of the United dially received and accepted by all. States approved a bill appropriating The conference, thus happily con- fifty thousand dollars for the expenses ceived, was duly held, the Secretary of of holding a conference between the the Treasury, Hon. W. G. McAdoo, act- governments of Central and South ing as the chief representative of the America and that of the United States United States and taking charge of the "with a view of establishing closer and arrangements. Meeting at the building more satisfactory financial relations" be- of the Pan-American Union at Wash- tween the countries participating there- ington for a week, the conference held in. continuous sessions, after which the Naturally, Dun's Financial Review Latin-American delegates made a tour of ha given much space to this conference, the eastern part of the United States, vis- but the whole world has also taken no- iting many of the most important cities, tice and it seems as though there may where they were entertained by the mu- yet be brought about a Pan-American nicipal authorities and the local cham- pact or alliance. bers of commerce and boards of trade.

479 THE MID-PACIFIC 480 The delegates included groups of lead- countries of legislation, first, to facili- ing financiers and business men from tate the drawing of bills of exchange the Latin-American republics. while upon one another, by the financial insti- abundant opportunity was afforded, both tutions of South American countries and at Washington and elsewhere, for them the financial institutions of the United o meet personally a large number of the States ; second, to make bonded ware- ioremost financiers and business men of house warrants and receipts available as collateralc security for the development this country. A feature of the conference of excep- of international commerce. It recom- kional interest and value was the forma- mended the advisability of permitting the in of eighteen permanent group com- payment of such part of the export du- ties on nitrates from Chile to the United mittees comprising the delegates from States—such part as are now paid in 90- each of the eighteen Central and South days' drafts, sterling, on London—in 90- American republics represented, togeth- days' sight drafts in dollars in New er with a small number of representative York, at such rates of exchange as may American business men. This enabled be periodically fixed by the Chilean au- the visitors from abroad to become more thorities ; also that such changes be made closely acquainted with the men in this in the laws of the United States as will country who were deeply concerned in enable bankers to extend their credit, dis- bringing about closer trade and financial count and rediscount facilities, so as to relations with their respective countries, conform to the trade customs and neces- and also resulted in laying the founda- sities of Latin-America. It also recom- tions for a highly valuable study of the mended that a permanent inter-Ameri- principal problems presented in each can commission be established to study country as a result of the great world commercial problems and conditions. war. As a preliminary to this study each Colombia.—The report of this com- group committee prepared and had mittee reviewed the financial and econo- printed prior to the adjournment of the mic situation of the country and the sub- conference a brief summary of the prin- cipal economic and financial facts relat- ject of public works, and recommended ing to the country which formed its par- that the .work of the conference be made ticular field. In view of the permanent Permanent by the co-operation of special importance of many of these studies, and committees in the various countries, sim- the prominence and authority of the ilar to those appointed at the confer- delegates joining in the various recom- ence, for the purpose of studying finan- endations made, it may be of interest cial and commercial matters, the estab- m to briefly summarize the reports of the lishment of a general executive council to meet at Washington annually, and the Pacific coast Latin-Americanreport of thiscountries. group appointment of a board of engineers to Bolivia.--The investigate projects which require finan- committee presented a succinct review of the finances, trade and commerce of cing. presenting a care- Costa Rica.—After the republic, discussed its principal nat- rvey of the financial situation in ural resources—minerals, rubber, timber, ful survey ublic this report emphasized the fruit and livestock—and considered the that re p subjects of railway extension and of both importance of foreign credit to the ex- tension of inter-American markets, and external and internal communications. Chile.—The group report of Chile rec- discussed the need of improved transpor- ommended the adoption by the various tation facilities by land and sea. THE MID-PACIFIC 481

Ecuador.—This delegation presented It also endorsed the Argentine proposal an exceedingly detailed and instructive for the arbitration of commercial dis- report regarding the needs and resources putes. of their country, and one that merits a Nicaragua.—This report reviewed the place in the permanent collections of all commercial and financial situation of the who are interested in that republic. In a country, described its natural resources later report the financial situation was and opportunities for investment, and reviewed in great detail, together with pending treaty between the governments discussions of the extension of inter- of Nicaragua and that of the United American markets, the improvement of States. transportation facilities, and better regu- lations for commercial travelers and Panama.—This report, after discuss- their samples. ing certain local matters, recommended the free use of the Canal for transporta- Guatemala.—This report also present- ed a variety of recommendations, to- tion between the ports of Panama and gether with a review of the financial and Colon ; the opening of branches of Fed- commercial situation of the country. eral reserve banks in Central and South Among the more important recommen- America; the improvement of shipping dations were the following: Practical facilities ; and that in the sending out of demonstrations in Guatemala of machin- prices or quotations, and in the drawing ery and tools made in the United States, of drafts, computation be made on the that American manufacturers be ad- basis of dollar exchange. vised of the need for portable sawmills Peru.—The sub-committee studying and improved sugar cane machinery in the needs of this important republic that country, that wares be shipped in recommended the establishment of packages suitable to the transportation branches of American banks in that facilities of the various countries, a uni- country, and advised that steps be taken form postal system throughout the by the United States financial institu- Americas, that facilities be extended in tions to facilitate the placing of loans in American schools for young men from South America. It urged uniform cus- Latin America, the interchange of pro- toms regulations, the adoption of meth- fessors and students, that the teaching ods in the United States to place the re- of Spanish and the study of the history sources of the country at the disposal of and geography of Latin America be foreign commerce, the establishment of more generally established. bonded warehouses and the issuance of Honduras.—After a very detailed dis- receipts or warrants which will be ac- cussion of finances, public and private, cepted by banks as security for loans, the including the financing of railways and establishment of exchange on the dollar electric lighting enterprises, this report basis, and the appointment of an inter- recommended improved trade-mark national commission to deal with the laws and the classification of merchan- various questions mentioned. This re- dise, the extension of inter-American port endorses the proposal for the ar- markets by more liberal credits, accept- arbitration of commercial disputes, and ances and discounts and the adoption of also suggests that the pure food and dollar exchange. It strongly urged the drug act be extended to importation and improvement of transportation facilities, exportation of all Latin-American coun- of the postal service and the parcel post. tries.. 482 THE MID-PACIFIC

The maid of Papua is born almost on the Equator, and she is unacquainted with clothing, except that which is absolutely necessary. In a land of frequent warm rains, coconut oil is perhaps after all the most healthful covering for the body of the dark man or woman.

Progress of Papua

By BEATRICE GRIMSHAW.

UCH has been heard about Papua velopment of natural resources, seems to of late, with good reason. Aus- have been considered possible—until Aus- M tralia has tried her hand at colo- tralia undertook the charge of the country. n zing for the first time, and made a not- Tourist traffic was unknown, for the best able success of the job. Since the taking of reasons—the country was not safe. over of "British New Guiena" by the The change that has taken place is known Commonwealth in 1906, the country has to all Australasia. Papua is not, even yet, been made. a health resort for the nervous and deli- Before that date it was no place for cate, or a place where the enterprising white men. They were not encouraged to commercial traveler may take his usual out- come, and when they did come, they found fit of sample cases and long list of hotels nothing to do, except a little precarious oc- and trading firms, with the certanity of cupation in the way of trading about the finding plenty of custom. But it is a coun- coasts for sandalwood, copra, or pearl- try of rapidly growing importance; its shell. No permanent settlement, no de- trade is by no means a negligible quantity,

483 484 THE MID-PACIFIC

and its tourist traffic is as big as the traffic good land suitable for the purpose; the to most of the old, popular Pacifi island total in June, 1910, was only 318 horses, holiday resorts. 1123 cattle, 66 mules, 71 sheep, and 557 Papua has suffered—we use the word goats. The country is well suited to cattle advisedly—from something in the way of in many districts, but it is not all suitable a "boom" during the last two years, which for sheep, and the few in evidence are means that numbers of speculators came merely imported by the steamers for butch- and took up land for which they had no ering use. use, that companies of more promise than The rainfall is one of Papua's strongest performance were promoted, and that a points. It is true that there is an extensive number of gentry who had certainly left "dry belt," some 100 by 20 miles, in which Australia for Australia's good made Port the fall is only about 35 inches annually. Moresby and Samari their temporary But the rainfall over most of Papua is homes not at all to the improvement of heavy and reliable. It runs far over 100 in either place. many places, the highest being 162 inches; This seems to be passing. The specu- 157, 153, 146, 143, 132 are the next fig- lators have not found themselves able to ures, running down by degrees to the 35 comply with the very easy conditions of im- of the dry belt. provement, in many cases, and have had to give up their lands. Various companies The temperature is never excessive. A have been reconstructed on less ambitious hundred degrees in the shade has never been lines. The gentleman of fortune has not exceeded on the mainland. During the disappeared, but his numbers are less, and hot, which is also the wet season, the ther- he is more fully under control than of old. mometer keeps pretty steadily in the high Port Moresby owns a white policeman ; eighties; during the cool season, it ranges there are two banks in the country - in the seventies and lower eighties. branches of the Bank of New South Wales As regards the Papuan population, no and the Union Bank of Australia, respec- census has ever been possible, as estimates tively. There is now a quiet, steady in- are at best guess work, owing to the num- crease of population, trade, cultivated lands, ber of districts that are still partly or imports and exports, which promises bet- wholly unexplored. It is safe, however, ter for the future than the sudden leaps to put it at about three-quarters of a mil- of three or four years ago. lion, more or less. The densest population Rubber, contrary to the general idea, is in the western districts, in the cannibal does not represent the main culture of country, which is as yet only partly under Papuan plantations. On the 30th of June, control. Here there are very large villages, 1910, rubber only accounted for 19 per or towns, some with with apparently as cent of the area under cultivation ; cocoa- many as 5000 inhabitants. The people are nuts took up 67 per cent; sisal hemp, 11 of a fine type, generally speaking. A good per cent ; coffee, 1.7 per cent, and other deal of recruiting for plantation work is cultures, 1.3 per cent. During the year being done in those parts that have been the Government nurseries sold 42,539 Para frequently visited by the Government pa- rubber trees to planters; 60,000 Para rub- trols, and are under some kind of restraint. ber seeds were also imported by the Gov- The cannibal recruits usually make very , ernment for sale; 417,700 sisal hemp good plantation hands ; they give no par- plants, and 600 bow-string hemp plants, ticular trouble during their term of en- were also sold by the Government. gagement, and do not seem to have any Live stock has not yet been raised in desire to attack their employers or to feast large quantities, though there is plenty of upon each other, although they will main- THE MID-PACIFIC 485

tain, if asked, that human flesh is much in the world. General articles to the value more delicate than tinned "bulimacow." of £1,705 are exported. What do the nine or ten hundred whites The ship traffic is not so heavy as resi- of Papua buy, for the most part? dents hope it will be in the future. Two Annually, the buy £35,785 worth of hundred and seventy-six vessels, with an food stuffs, which looks as if they aggregate tonnage of 256,286, cleared the owned somewhat remarkable appetities, un- different ports of the territory in 1909-11 til one remembers that very much of this —Government vessels and ships of war not food stuff is consumed by the native la- included. The mail boats now call at bor; £14,366 worth of drapery and cloth- fairly frequent intervals, the longest space ing, a good deal of which is worn in the possible means of preventing individual and shape of cotton ramies by the natives; £4,- Burns, Philp, and the Royal Dutch Packet 322 for machinery is a fairly large figure Company—share the passenger trade. The for such a small community, but £5,991 for former vessels take about eight days from building material is easily accounted for Sydney, calling at Brisbane and Cairns. when one sees the rapidly increasing size of The latter take about the same time, call- Port Moresby. ing at Brisbane. Of the exports, gold tops the score by a The mining interests of Papua still re- long way, contributing £59,427 — more main somewhat more important than the than half of the total. Copra stands next, planting; it is, even yet, chiefly a miner's at £24,498. Sandalwood is an item that country, though the newly planted areas varies very much in Papuan reports; on the will change all that before very long. Re- whole, it is on the down grade, most of the turns from the copper fields are not yet available timber having been cut out. Gold, large, though it is hoped that these will in the same period, has risen steadily from increase. The total revenue from the £32,926 to £59,427. Astrolabe copper field in 1909-10 was only Beche-de-mer has declined from £6,892 £263. 19. 3, and no very great increase for in 1902 to the negligible figure of £171. this year is anticipated. Of the £60,181 Pearl-shell, at£1,445, is a larger item than of gold won in the territory, £33,594 came it has been since 1902, when £1,872 was from Murua, and £11,250 from the new exported. Turtle-shell accounted for £943 Lakekamu field. These figures are sure of the exports. It is supposed that this to show a good increase in the current item could be considerably increased, as al- year, as Murua has been doing very, and so might the exports of pearl-shell, if a Lakekamu fairly, well. One may note little prospecting were done. Pearls (from here that official figures as to the gold won the Trobriand Islands) stand higher than in the country can never be taken literally. they have ever done before, £4,290. Nat- There are no means of estimating it ex- ural history specimens, since the passing of actly, as the miners are reserved about the laws protecting rare and beautiful birds, amount of their gains, and much of what have dropped from £3,310 in 1907 to £232. they get goes out of the country with the Rubber, though largely planted, has not men themselves, when they go down south been tapped yet on any plantation ; the for a holiday. £904 put down to this item is due to wild It seems clear that "something will have rubber. £654 worth of coffee beans was to be done" some time or other on the la- exported. Copper ore to the value of £1,- bor question. The planters, almost to a 439 left the country, there being, as yet, man, are crying out for imported labor no smelting machinery. Timber accounts from Malaysia, Japan, India, China—any- for only £263 of the exports, though Papua where. so long as it is cheap and biddable, is one of the most richly timbered countries and colored. The Government is in favor 486 THE MID -PACIFIC of taxing a certain proportion of idle na- not likely to acknowledge, or believe, that tives who, relieved of their fomer occupa- he himself is the chief, sometimes the only tions of defense and fighting, have nothing "labor difficulty." to do but loaf and smoke, and live upon The British New Guiena Development the labor of their women. It is held that Co., started in 1909, has done much to- this is the only way to provide labor with- wards the opening up of the country. It out violating the white Australia policy ; holds about 100,000 acres of lanl, and is and it is also believed—with good reason, chiefly growing rubber and coffee. It has if the history of the Pacific isles goes for started seventeen plantations, a sawmill, anything—that such a plan is the only and a large general store; also some fifteen racial deterioration among the Papuans. trading stations along the coast. It owns All Pacific history seems to show that the a small fleet of sailing vessels and several conquered, tamed, civilized, and idle steamers and auxiliary craft. About 100 Oceanian inevitably dies out. All Malay- Europeans and 700 natives are employed sia seems to prove that the working savage by this one firm, which is certainly the lives. most important that has yet started oper- A third course is possible, but, as it is ations in New Guinea. more or less in the nature of a "counsel of It is useless to expect enormous or sud- perfection," one may scarcely expect its adoption. It is simply the selection of men, den developments from Papau, a country as plantation managers, who have proved not more than half explored, and with re- their ability to handle Papuan labor suc- sources and industries all in the experi- cessfully. Such men have no labor diffi- mental stage. But the territory has fine culties. But the manager or owner of possibilities, and will yet be a possession of some plantation which is short-handed is great value to Australia. Athletics in China

By ARTHUR SHOEMAKER, Physical Director Tsing Hua College.

NLY a decade has passed since leadership among the countries of the Far China was convalescing from an East in feats of athletic skill prowess. 0 anute attack of anti-foreign indi- Under the new governmental regime, gestion. Her elaborate system of body gym- China is emerging from behind the veil of nastics and fighting charm as developed by conservatism and superstition and has al- the Boxer organization, had met with utter ready matriculated in the school of modern failure when matched against the more science, education and industry. This is a modern methods of warfare. most encouraging sign of progress, and The subjects of modern physical training moreover, it is a courageous step, when we and track athletics and games were prac- think of her vast ages of schooling under a tically unknown in China, and all physical selfish despotic governmental rule. sport and exercise was officially tabooed as The first competition in athletic sport an occupation invented for coolies only. and games of national importance, along Little did China dream at this time of her modern lines, took place at Nanking in the ever countenancing her sons developing fall of 1909, in conjunction with the Na- their bodies or engaging in such menial pas- tional Industrial Exposition. Invitations times as physical sports. Still further re- were mailed by the committee in charge of moved was the idea of China as a nation the games, to all the government and mis- competing in friendly international athletic sion schools in China, asking them to send competition. But the miracle has been per- representative teams to take part in the formed, and this year China has taken the First National Track and Field Sports and

487 488 THE MID-PACIFIC

Games. About 150 athletes were finally For several months past there had been assembled and a successful meet was con- evolving in the minds of some of the lead- cluded. The Shanghai Sectional team car- ers in the Philippine Islands, the idea of es- ried off first honors with the North China tablishing a Far Eastern Olympic Games, Sectional team not far behind. The games after the order of the modern world Olym- amused and created much interest among pics and ancient Olympic games first insti- the thousands of Chinese who saw them, tuted in Greece in 776 B. C. and the newspapers gave them prominent With this idea in view invitations were space and favorable comment. It was the sent out to all the countries of the Far East, general feeling then that this was a real resulting in favorable replies from three of beginning along this line. them, China, Japan, and the Philippine Isl- At the instigation of the Peking Athletic ands. This show of interest seemed to the Association, the Sectional National Cham- committee to be sufficient for a beginning at pionship Games were held at Peking inside least, and so the committee on sports and the Temple of Heaven enclosure. In this games in conjunction with the annual beautiful old historic place, where the em- Philippine carnival issued invitation to all perors (sons of Heaven), from the time of the Far Eastern countries, to send represen- the Ta Mings, came annually on the first tatives to participate in the First Far East- moon of the fall season to offer up to the ern Olympic Games to be held at Manila, God of Heaven in a formal burnt offering, February 1 to 10, 1913. the great book of all the recorded deeds of After several months of preparation and the past year, here 250 brawny Celestial training these three countries assembled to- athletes had assembled to vie with each gether at Manila on scheduled time, more other in feats of modern track athletics and than 150 formidable contestants. The games. Indeed it was an impressive pic- Governor-General of the Islands formally ture with the great round dome of the Altar opened the games with remarks of welcome of Heaven rising above the long avenues of addressed to the visiting teams and repre- virgin evergreen trees that formed the back- sentatives. Many of the official dignitaries ground of this the modern athletic stage. and influential men of Manila were present, Placing the two motives side by side, the besides thousands of native Filipinos and old and the new, one the beginning of a new Chinese, who had come to see and cheer record sheet under the old regime, the other their countrymen to victory. The final representing the awakening of a new man- score showed that the Philippine Islands hood in China under a new regime; here team had won first honors with a good mar- was a picture full of significance as well as gin to spare, with China second and Japan a picturesque one. third. It might be well to state here that I don't believe anyone had ever thought the Chinese athletes would have given about this interval between the first and much better account of themselves had they second national games as being an Olym- not suffered from a rough sea voyage en piad. Why not carry this Olympiad idea route with its consequent weakening in- out in celebrating the national games of fluence, arriving at Manila only the day be- China and set the next date for 1917? fore the games took place. A meeting of These second national games gave evi- the representatives from China, Japan and dence that the Northern students had made Philippine Islands was held at the conclu- the longest strides forward, as shown by sion of the game, when it was decided that the easy manner in which they carried away the Second Far Eastern Olympic Games the first honors, while the Shanghai and should be held at Shanghai, China, in 1915. Yangtse Valley team trailed along in sec- A games committe was appointed with ond place. headquarters at Shanghai, and the Second THE MID-PACIFIC 589

Far Eastern Championship Games have of the more remote islands, where the na- just come to a successful close, May 15th tives dressed and looked just like the pic- to 22nd. This time China evened up the ture in the geography book. At Manila, score of her old rival, and won first honors, however, we were met at the steamship by with the strong Philippine Islands team a a committee of refined, educated men, rep- close second. Japan, although making a resenting various social, political and edu- much better score than in the first Olym- cational organizations. These gentlemen pics, still had to be content with third extended to our party a cordial welcome place. The time and place for the Third and the hospitality of the island. A com- Far Eastern Championships has not been mittee of Chinese, representing the Chinese decided upon, although it is expected that Merchants Association of Manila, was also they will take place in Japan in 1917. to greet their own countrymen. We soon This brings us to a consideration of the learned that there was a large Chinese real significance of these games. We know population in Manila, also Chinese resi- from experience that to prepare for them dents scattered throughout the islands. We and to carry them on successfully, it re- were further informed that the Chinese quires a large expenditure of effort, time controlled a very large share of the busi- and money. The question arises then, ate ness in Manila and that they were respected competitive sports and games carried on by both the natives and foreigners as be- such a large scale really worth while? In ing good, reliable business people. answering this question let us consider it The visiting Chinese athletes were the from an educational and social viewpoint. guests of the Chinese Merchants Associ- Most of us have studied at school the ation during their stay in Manila, and. subjects of geography and history, -and are everything was done to make them feel wel- supposed to have stored away in some small come and comfortable. Many of the Chi- niche of our cranium more or less facts nese residents paid daily visits to the hotel about the different countries of the world to talk with them, asking all man- and something about the people who in- ner of questions about their home land, habit them. The sum of all this sort of which the great majority of the island resi- knowledge is what we call education. Be dents had never seen. They were also con- assured that every member of our party spicuous by their numbers in attendance who went to Manila had some vague no- at the games, where they came to see and tion about a native Filipino, for did we encourage their native team. They in- not remember pictures of him in the geog- vited us to banquets and chartered special raphy book? He was a "scan of ordinary tram cars to show us around the city. This stature, with a decided chocolate complex- social intercourse and exchange of views, ion all over; he carried a shield and a long this ocular and oral information at first spear, and wore around his loins a girdle hand, was worth more in terms of educa- of cocoanut or palm leaves woven into a tion than books. belt. Since the occupation of the islands by The real significance of all our competi- the United States, efforts were being made tive athletics and games is summed up in of course to domesticate and educate the terms of bodily health, education and effi- native, but then we did not look for any ciency. If they do no more than form the great change in this brief space of years. habit of out-of-door exercise among the On the arrival at Manila, much to the youth of our country they will have been delight of all, we did not find any such well worth while, and will have accom- primitive state of civilization, although we plished their purpose. The most vital and were told afterwards by a reliable resident, important asset to a country is a strong and that very primitive races did exist on some vigorous physical manhood. 490 THE MID-PACIFIC

From days immemorial, fishing has been one of the chief industries of the native Hawaiian. In olden days, the catch of fish was the life of the land. Now famous anglers from America come to Hawaii and make record-breaking catches.

Fishing in Old Hawaii

(Compiled by M. G. MAURY.)

HE recent capture of a great niuihi In color the niuihi is a leaden gray, with 3n the windward side of the island the tips and edges of the pectoral fins black. Tof Oahu, where it had undoubtedly It is found in all temperate and tropical been driven by stress of weather, aroused seas and attains a length of thirty feet. In considerable interest among the older na- the stomach of one caught near Soquel, tive fishermen. In the olden times the California, a young sea lion, weighing more catching of the niuihi was made a great than 100 pounds was found. event, but there has been no regular fishery Of recent years the niuihi has been re- for it in the islands for nearly one hundred ported off the coast of Puna, south of Hilo, years. whither it was attracted by the body of a The niuihi (carcharodon carcharias) is dead horse. The shark's natural home is one of the most dreaded of the man-eatiing believed to be in the warmer waters of the sharks, and is regarded as the largest and Equator, and the Gilbert Islanders, when fiercest of all the sharks. It is the shark here, said that it is very frequently seen which is said by natives to be seen a long and captured in their group. way off at night by the brilliant greenish Local tradition has it that the niuihi is light of its eyeballs. seen only just after or during a heavy

491 492 THE MID-PACIFIC storm, when the disturbed waters drive it In fact, every part of the niuihi's bones away from its natural haunts. and skin was supposed to confer unflinching When the Hawaiians of old wanted to bravery on the possessor. go fishing for niuihi much preparation was Every now and again fishing with lau is made for the adventure. The common prosecuted off Waikiki beach. Of late kind of shark was caught in vast quantities, several lau fishing parties have been held and the liver, and a little of the flesh, was and some good catches made. wrapped in ti leaves, and baked under- The lau fishing as followed today is a ground. Then from firty to one hundred modification of lau kapalili (trembling of the largest single and double canoes leaves.) were loaded with baked meats and large Lau kapalili is one of the old-time meth- quantities of the pounded roots of the awa, ods of bag-net fishing, which used to be mixed with a little water, and contained in followed greatly in Hawaii in the days of large gourds. the monarchy, and which have been entirely The fleet would sail many miles out to abandoned, or, at most, only rarely used. sea in the direction in which the niuihi was known frequently to appear. Arrived at a This style of fishing was called the "fish- comparatively shallow place, the canoe con- ing of kings," as they only could command taining the head fisherman, the priest and a sufficient number of canoes, men and lau. the kahuna, or sorcerer—who was supposed Kamehameha V, whose favorite resi- to be indispensable—would cast anchor; dence was at Waikiki, frequently ordered meat and the baked liver would be thrown it, and Prince Kalanianaole is a keen de- overboard, a few bundles at a time, to at- votee of the sport. tract the sharks. Lau kapalili is the use of a large bag- After a few days the grease and scent of net, smaller than the kolo ; larger than the cooked meats would spread through the ohua or iiao net, but of the same general water many miles in radius. The niuihi shape, and called a papa. would almost always make its appearance The upena kolo is the largest net in use after the third or fourth day, when bundles in the islands, and owing to its size it can of the baked meat were thrown as fast as be used at only a few places around the the shark could swallow them. After a islands. Honolulu harbor, before the anti- while the great fish would become com- netting law was passed, was an excellent paratively tame and would come up to one hunting ground for the kolo fishers. or other of the canoes to be fed. This great net is fine meshed, so that Bundles of the liver with the pounded small fishes cannot escape, and-is sixteen to awa would then be given it, when it would twenty-four fathoms in depth, very narrow become not only satiated, but also stupefied at the extreme end, but widening into an with awa, and a noose was then slipped immense flaring mouth. Attached to the over its head, and the fleet raised anchor mouth on each mouth. Attached to the and set sail for home, the shark following mouth on each side are wings sixteen to a willing prisoner, the people in the nearest twenty fathoms deep. canoes taking care to feed it on the same This net used to be swept around the delectable mixture from time to time. It harbor by Chinese and Japanese, using two was led right into shallow water where it boats built specially for the purpose, wh was stranded and then killed, a victim of pulled the nets with ropes, scooping up misplaced confidence and gluttony. everything in its path, the principal specks The actual captor, that is, the one who taken being the hahalalu, the young of the slipped the noose over the niuihi's head, akule ; and the amaama or mullet. would also, ever after, be always victorious. A few years ago immense hauls of mul- THE MID-PACIFIC 493

let and hahalalu used to be made in the certain distances on the lau and helping to harbor by means of the upena kolo. pull it. But in the old days the natives used the When the lau was all paid out the two lau kapalili. Two rope laus of 300 or 400 leading canoes then curved in to form a fathoms in length, with ti leaves attached, semicircle, at the same time always moving the same as in lau ohua, and generally the toward the shore. When either end was lau of two or more ohua nets, were joined landed the men immediately leaned out, together, and piled on a large double canoe, and taking hold of the line pulled on it, at which was taken out two or three mile; the same time going toward each other, from shore, attended by as many canoes as which had the effect of narrowing the semi- could be mustered. In the old days of the circle, while most of the canoes kept back- kings a fleet of from 60 to 100 canoes ing on to the double canoe which always would follow the lau off Waikiki. had the center. Arrived at a suitable place, always a The head fisherman always went on the clean, sandy spot, a few rods from shore, canoe containing the net and lau. Arriving the laus were untied and attached to each at the proper distance, which had to be just end of the papa net. Men, women and opposite the final drawing place, the end of children then gathered closely on the lau, one rope was joined to that of the other•, especially where it joined the net, and made and two canoes, manned by eight or ten a great disturbance with their feet, which strong men, took the other end of the rope had the effect of driving all the fish into or lau, one each, and started in opposite the net. Lau and net were finally drawn directions and exactly parallel to the shore, ashore. while the double canoe remained stationary Then, as now, lau kapalili fishing could until all the lau was paid out. be carried on only on a clear, bright, sunny In the meantime the rest of the canoes day, so that the shadows cast by the leaves were divided into companies and followed could be seen that they might serve to drive the leading canoes, stationing themselves at the fish inshore.

494 THE MID-PACIFIC

The world has seldom seen a more artistic and beautiful array of build- ings than those at the California-Panama Exposition at San Diego. Everywhere there are vistas of beauty from graceful porticos, and it is a pleasure to spend day after day in this wonder- ful sub-tropical country of Southern California. The Lei-Bedecked "Luau Girl."

The Pan-Pacific Luau in Honolulu

URING the Carnival week in United States, and here at the festive Honolulu, when guests were gath- board residents of Honolulu, but born in D ered from every land about the the United States, met visitors from their great ocean, the local Pan-Pacific Club home sections who had come to attend the held two international banquets, each at- Carnival or to visit Hawaii. The speakers tended by five hundred interested well- voiced many happy suggestions, one being wishers of the cause of Pacific Patriotism that, the Pan-Pacific countries, having now and a co-operative effort of the Pacific combined for a joint display in the build- races to plan together for their joint ad- ing set apart for the Pan-Pacific Club at vancement. San Diego, they organize permanently and At the first of these banquets there were acquire Pan-Pacific exhibits that may be tables for every state or section of the sent from state fair to state fair thruout

495 496 THE MID-PACIFIC the year for local exhibition and the educa- in their splendid brotherhood and lack of cation of the American people as to the at- race hatred demonstrated on a small scale tractions and opportunities offered by Pa- what is possible on a large scale, and that cific lands. the gathering together of all Pacific ex- We quote from The Pacific Commercial hibits in one building in a harmonious Adveritser concerning the second Pan-Pa- whole at San Diego was merely extending cific banquet : to the mainland a movement that has had "Nearly five hundred persons of every a splendid beginning in Hawaii. nationality in Hawaii sat down at the "Mayor Lane extended the aloha of the second Pan-Pacific luau yesterday noon at club to the visiting guests and introduced Bishop Square. The tents were decorated A. Akana, who made a stirring address on beautifully with the flags of all Pacific the part the Hawaiians are taking in countries and the Australian table particu- the Pan-Pacific movement. Judge San- larly was tastefully covered with flowers ford B. Dole welcomed the malihinis and reminiscent of the Southern continent. On stated that the kamaainas wished them to sizzled the Siberian table real samovars remain forever in Hawaii and become co- and about this board gathered sons and workers in the movement for a brother- daughters of Siberia in brilliant Russian hood of Pacific people. One of the most costume. At the Filipino and Korean brilliant oratorical efforts was that of Dr. tables also the women were in native cos- Dai Yan Chang, who spoke of the inter- tume, and altogether the Pan-Pacific gath- ests China is taking in the Pan-Pacific ering of yesterday was one of the most movement, branch clubs having been in- picturesque events of Carnival week. "From an oratorical standpoint the Pan- troduced there, even in Peking itself, Pacific gathering was an intellectual treat. where all races mingled at weekly lunch- Harry L. Strange, who fought through the eons. Boer war and who goes to the front this "C. C. Ramirez, the Filipino orator, week, spoke eloquently of the work of the spoke of the efforts of his people in Ha- Pan-Pacific movement to bring the races waii and in the Philippines to forward the of the Pacific so closely together in co- new get-together movement, and L. W. de operative plans for each others advance- Vis-Norton told how it had been born in ment that they would never think of war Australia at a conference between Alex- with each other. ander Hume Ford and Percy Hunter, re- "Lorrin Andrews, who has lived in sulting in the agreement that Mr. Hunter China, on the Pacific Coast and in Ha- would work for the Pan-Pacific movement waii, told of the work of, the Pan-Pacific from Sydney westward to London and Club in securing a fine and well located Mr. Ford would work from Hawaii east- building in San Diego for the 1916 Pana- ward. ma-California exposition and inviting all "In eight years both had done much of the countries of the Pacific as its guests work and Australia now was sending a to send their exhibits there, and expressed good exhibit to the Pan-Pacific building in a hope that this would be a beginning of San Diego. The speeches were closed all Pacific lands uniting to show their joint with a benediction from Jack London, who exhibits at every fair and exhibition in occupied the seat of honor, Alexander Amerca, and even further abroad. flume Ford was toastmaster. "S. Sheba, retiring president of the Ha- Messrs. Ford and Strange will depart waii Shinpo and a director of the Pan-Pa- for the Coast Friday and will take part cific Club, took for his text the title of in the opening ceremonies of the Pan-Pa- "The Adopted Sons," declaring that the cific building in San Diego, March 15. races in Hawaii were all adopted sons and ADVERTISING SECTION Among the Hawaiian Islands

Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.

HAWAIIAN ISLAND S scoie iirch=2.0400.2A4, Cum:rho Av- ilk /loom, ihtmewitry Comovhbe ey E Ner...7eus i,os. Sceshe us Miles

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The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat ( S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island Mondays and Fridays there is a boat fleet leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest on Wednesday arid Saturday afternoons of the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails Fare to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail for Honolulu . This is the most conven- and auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the rates at Volcano House, about $6 a day.' famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. r-7Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in fact, of this wonderously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. When Honolulu was ready for her is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid markable Polynesian collection in the world. Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfers are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating several of :he wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park. The Island of Oahu

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- kAVCOUVCR latial ocean greyhound service between San SEArT 5 Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, • 040 / 4C/F/C 0 0 , have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & YOKOHAMA Cooke, Ltd. .; e HAWAI IAN / ,00 - IS LANDS 7 fRA This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- ONGKONG 996/ lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo OCEAN Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- S4MQ4 fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. sravh-r Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for Ack4;on 1t many of the plantations throughout Ha- of waii, and here may be secured much varied awa.77an - • islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- 21 phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Alafts by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

OAHU nSaktft Square Milts 598 HONOLULU NCOMAL SCHOOL Length of Island 96 Milts sokti. Dr MIAS 13,00dd of Island 25 WO 14,gliesith,,t.tir1{0014,,,,030 Fti. PREP' OLD A7) CODYKI6e1YDD BY Po,LDILL,on over 60,000 Pope wILL,s T. POPE. .1)0105“ fran Cal,forold Nt155, (NM Iipan 3,9oo Mdes cc f14555A4551,15i4,44 Orle5 Do ro11505 Roqd crowd Island Firdorloss RatIro4d Stistem I Sotor Crop for I907 loon MIL,

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The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian Group. Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin.

1I

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The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. On the island of Maui, on which Alex- to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- movements of the large ,Inter-Island est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is steamers. This truly American concern Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- has diversified interests in all of the isl- ful extinct crater in the world, as on ands, and is therefore interested in the Hawaii, Kilauea is earth's largest ac- development in every way of every part tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, of the Territory. where this firm also has its interests, The Hawaiian group is composed of there are canyons as varied in color and seven large and a number of small isl- variety of scene as any in Arizona, while ands. The largest island of the group- on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- does the State of Connecticut, and boasts genwald building in Honolulu, there is an unbroken sugar-cane area more than the famous Pali or precipice which is a hundred miles long. It is the home of visited by every tourist, and is the pride the two highest island mountain peaks of the Hawaiians themselves. in the world. The going and coming of people in The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- southwest of San Francisco, and have able monthly calendar in red, white and a population of 200,000, the very living blue, issued by the firm of Alexander & of whom depends upon the growing of Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance sugar cane, the islands shipping over agents. This large calendar, it is safe 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America to say, hangs in every business office annually, thus creating and supporting the in the islands, and in many on the coast. two largest American steamship com- It shows each day just what steamer is panies.

The Island of Maui

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

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Area in 51aSuie Sz[uare Files 728 Length 48tkiles. Breadth 3o [vides -Highest Elevation 1003: Feet rgesit Exiinct Crater in the Works pfianEiton over Zoo Ditiance from EltYen

The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chili, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. Around the Pacific

American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and via the Panama Canal and San Francisco. Approximate time in transit, 38 days.

TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King "William Street, Adelaide, and the From San Francisco, Vancouver and government has printed many illustrated from Honolulu there are two lines of fast books and pamphlets describing the scenic steamships to Sydney, Australia. and industrial resources of the state. A From Syney to Adelaide, South Aus- postal card or letter to the Intelligence and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the which concession fares are granted tourists books and information you may desire. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to the Australian Commonwealth can afford ON TO JAPAN. to neglect visiting the southern central state The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or japan of Australia; for South Australia is the Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 State of superb climate and unrivalled re- vessels, and tonnage of 450,000 maintains It sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- South,' is the capital, and there is a Govern- nese, Philippine and Australian ports to ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a where the tourist, investor, or settler is European service, fortnightly from Yoko- given accurate information, guaranteed by hama to London and Antwerp, and from the government, and free to all. From Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river toria, B. C., and Seattle, "Wash. Be- and motor excursions to almost every part sides these main services the Nippon Yu- of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to through the magnificent mountain and all of the principal ports in Japan, pastoral scenery of South Australia. The Korea and China, etc., thus making it government makes travel easy by a system the ideal shippers' service from Aus- of coupon tickets and facilities for caring tralia, America and Europe, as **well as for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions the most convenient around the Pacific are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- and around the world service for the viduals or parties are made familiar with tourist or merchant. There are branch the industrial resources, and the American offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at as well as the Britisher is made welcome if all the principal ports of the world. The he cares to make South Australia his home. head office is at Tokyo, Japan, and its The South Australian Intelligence and telegraphic address Morioka, Tokyo. Wonderful New Zealand I

I

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50.000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most ship Co. also transfers passengers from scenic glaciers in the world. In these . Government Tourist Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Touri: t Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. New South Wales

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date, well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. The climate of the State ranges from In the south, among the Australian the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- which contains the highest peak in the ers, and withal is one of the most equable Continent, and is said to be the oldest in the world. Its eastern shore is washed land surface on the globe. The Hotel by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 the rim of the setting sun. feet. In Summer, the mountaineer and Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of bag with fish caught in a handy stream, rare magnificence. Through countless and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- dous gorges, comparable only to the nivals conducted on the glistening snow- famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- fields. tus covered slopes give off health-giving The Government Tourist Bureau, a odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping splendidly equipped Institution at Challis valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. For the Tourist and Visitor

The Alexander-Young Hotel (under same management as the Moana and Hawaiian.)

CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. concern is constantly adding new features will Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- and new stock. The business man press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island find his every need in the office is supplied a and S. S. Co., Honolulu for special in- by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on clusive excursion rates. call over the phone, and this is true also THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- of the fashionable society leader, whether posite the Alexander Young, is the her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. singers and players, and here at every The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Machinery Merchants and leading auto- prices the delicacies of the season. mobile dealers, have their offices and store THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town in the Alexander Young Building, at the hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and, $20 their magnificent automobile salesroom and a month up. Phone 1267. garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Honolulu is so healthy that people don't street. Here one may find almost any- usually die there, but when they do they thing. Phone No. 4901. phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, "Maile" Australian butter from the 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, Metropolitan Meat Market on King and he arranges the after details. If you Street, stands at the head for flavor and are a tourist and wish to be interred in keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is your own plot on the mainland, Williams here you also get the tender meats and will embalm you ; or he will arrange all fresh vegetables of which an abundant details for interment in Honolulu. Don't supply is always on hand. Heilbron & leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- other, but if you must, let your friends derful business until now the Metropolitan talk it over with Williams. Meat Market is the central and popular The largest of the very fashionable market place in Honolulu. Phone 3445. shops in the Alexander Young Building, Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, occupying the very central portion, is that Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest from the oven, the delicious baker's bread design is kept in stock. Every kind of and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery well as printers' and binders' supplies. crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come There are musical instruments of every from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the most complete and up to date machin- and the Angelus Player Piano and this ery and equipment in the territory. B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading woman's store in Honolulu, on Fort Street, between King and Hotel Streets.

E. 0. Hall & Son, corner Fort and King Streets.

A part of the interior of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Sts. The Power Factory, where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is ar-ranged for.

horsepower, with another two hundred and ELECTRICITY IN HONOLULU. fifty horsepower to the Federal Wireless In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Station, fifteen miles distant, besides cur- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per rent for lighting all private residences in month per lamp, and six cents thereafter. Honolulu, as well as for operating its own From the Hawaiian Electric Company extensive ice plant. A line is now being plant, power is furnished to the pineapple built to furnish light and power to the canneries (the largest canneries in the great army post at Schofield Barracks, world) to the extent of seven hundred twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

Entrance to Lewers & Cooks' large establishment. Lumber, hardware, etc. Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond Z;c. Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Streets, is the actual center of life and leading enterprises, doing a flourishing activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- lumber and mill business. section of the tram lines, the shoppers, business men, and tourists await their cars, Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the chatting at the open soda fountain, that is chief port, and from Hilo excursions are the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here made up to all the points of interest. The the tourist and stranger is advised as tc, Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the sights of the city, and supplied with the matter of home promotion work and is any perfumes, candies or drugs he may developing the wonderful scenic surround- need during his stay. Chambers Drug ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo Store is one of the institutions of Hono- Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation lulu. Phone No. 1291. of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- recently extended its rails thirty-two miles soected Chinese business man, is a director along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe of the Home Insurance Co., and head of and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the is one of the scenic trips of the world. The corner of King and Maunakea St., which Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite supplies the local dealers of the territory direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a with drugs and general merchandise. branch with the Auto Service takes the Whatever you do, do not fail to visit tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King of the ever active Kilauea. Street. Early morning is the best time for The leading music store in Hawaii is this, when all the multi-colored fish of on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom Hawaiian waters are presented to view Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and every nationality of the islands is on lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the talking machine. The Bergstrom Music leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Company, with its big store on Fort Street, Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- will provide you with these—a Chickering, tion of which the city is proud. a "Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a A monument to the pluck and energy of tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the if you are a transient it will rent you a City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, and manager. This plant at Queen and phone 2331. LIGHTING THE HOUSE. BUILDING THE HOME. There are 4100 consumers of gas in The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- Honolulu, and the price of gas in that ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank Building, are engineers and constructors city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- cording to amount consumed, is a lower of buildings of every kind, from the smallest private residence to the largest and most price than that charged for gas by any imposing blocks. Being composed of some other American city having not more than of the most prominent men in the islands, 4100 consumers. it is not surprising that it has secured When the Honolulu Gas Company first large and important contracts, including began business the charge for gas was the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- sumers were secured the price was lower- The City's great furniture store, that or ed, and will be lowered considerably as J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of the people of the city become educated to the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. the fact that gas is the most economical Here the latest styles in home and office fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, furniture arriving constantly from San that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. Francisco are displayed on several spacious The gas mains of Honolulu are con- floors. Phone No. 2111. stantly being extended to the outlying With the wood that is used for building tricts. The brightest and cheapest street in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen lighting in the city is that secured from Street, Phone 2105, have for generations gas in connection with the latest inven- supplied the people of Honolulu and those tions in incandescent hoods, these giant on the other islands ; also their buildings hoods made incandescent by a small jet of and paints. Their office is on Queen St., gas giving a marvelous light that seems as near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, bright as day. The smaller hoods are and their lumber yards extend right back used in the office and in the home, greatly to the harbor front, where every kind of reducing the gas bills of consumers. hard and soft wood grown on the coast is The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its landed by the schooners that ply from spacious show rooms and offices at the Puget Sound. corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, and here the public is invited to meet with Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen the staff of experts in gas lighting and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed cooking devices. They know how to aid rock used in the construction of the mod- in saving on the gas bill to an extent that ern building in Hawaii. They also main- will induce all to use gas, both in the tain their own stables and drays. Draying kitchen and in the parlor. in Honolulu is an important business, and Every new gas consumer aids in lower- Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, ing the price of gas to all. They gladly and keep drays of every size, sort and de- send men to give estimates for the use of scription for the use of those who require gas in the home. Write them or phone them. They also conduct a rock crusher 3424. and supply wood and coal. The Banks of Honolulu .

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of. Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $7,555,975.03. Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial in- stitution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda the central bank of Honolulu, with a water. The Consolidated Soda Water capital, surplus and undivided profits Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the amounting to nearly a million and a half, largest in the Territory. Aerated waters or more than the total of any other bank cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root magnificent building at the busiest busi- Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and that is delicious, besides a score of other Fort streets; has a savings department and flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a was organized in 1897. bottle at any store. -- '",..T7

Financial Hawaii

A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, the Capital of the Company was $200,- now has $140,000 in cash capital and earn- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided ed surplus, and gross assets of $390,000. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- company business in all its various lines ganized and managed by the same people, with offices in the Stangenwald Building, Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. has assets in excess of $200,000. The splendid growth of these concerns has been The Mutual Telephone Co. works in due to careful and conservative manage- close accord with the Marconi Wireless, ment and to the unbounded confidence re- and controls the wireless service between posed in them by the people whom they the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- phone service throughout Hawaii. For a ecutor and Trustee under Wills, Adminis- dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- trator and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary five words may be sent to any part of the Agent, and as Attorney and Agent for non- territory. Honolulu was the first city in residents and others needing such service. the world to install a house to house tele- Its offices are centers of activity in real phone system, and Hawaii the first country estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- to commercially install wireless telegraphy. cles. The Company is a member of the Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Street is the Office Supply Co., the home of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book is the most recently incorporated Trust cases. Every kind of office furniture is Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as are closely identified with the largest well as a complete line of office stationery. business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, There is a repair shop for typewriters, and integrity and high standing in the com- every necessary article that the man of munity. The Company was incorporated business might need. Phone 3843.

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the business center of the city; here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance and real estate handled. Here is the home 4 the Kaimuki Land Company, and safety vaults. OE uGARDEN.N D Tasmania THE OF AUSTRALIA

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Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New ZealandG ov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. t3V,WAIP k,nti MIZUNIKTASPAKILN RAM V.O A ~4 M, lag .",!1aj t

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