J.C. PENNEY SHARES CLIMB/2 LACROIX TAKES OFF/13 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • April 1, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Trading Spaces NEW YORK — Cosmopolitan Cosmetics is trying out new market positions for two of its designer brands. The beauty giant is launching Anna Sui Secret Wish exclusively with Victoria’s Secret Beauty at the end of this month, and is fashioning a high-end luxury positioning for its new eponymous Escada scent, due in May. Sources say Secret Wish could do $25 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter, while Escada could do $30 million at retail in the same period. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Find a Partner: Equity Groups Link Up to Eye Neiman Marcus By Vicki M. Young prices in the market, private equity done extensive due diligence in the NEW YORK — Four partnerships are players are getting a lot more cozy Neiman sale, are: Thomas H. Lee forming among venture capitalists as they search for bigger and Partners and Blackstone Group; eyeing potential bids for Neiman bigger deals. Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co. and Marcus Group. Financial sources said the four Bain Capital Partners; Apollo Driven by higher acquisition partnerships, which have already See Partnerships, Page 17 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY AND MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 WWD.COM Penney’s Stock Soars on LBO Talk By Meredith Derby catalogue/Internet division has ed that the two private equity “double-digit growth potential firms could put 25 to 35 percent WWDFRIDAY Beauty NEW YORK — Amid indications and should command a premi- of the $16 billion to $18 billion that the management of J.C. um to the company itself.” price tag down and borrow the Penney Co. will resist a takeover In addition, Barry wrote that, remainder. The firms would like- GENERAL attempt by private equity firms, because of Cerberus’ ownership ly then prove Penney’s is a cash Four partnerships are forming among venture capitalists eyeing potential the national retailer’s stock shot of Mervyn’s, it could convert cow by drastically cutting costs. 1 bids for Neiman Marcus Group that are expected in the next few weeks. up 8.4 percent on Thursday. some of those stores to Penney’s With interest rates low, the pri- Shares of J.C. Penney Co. shot up 8.4 percent on Thursday based on Myron Ullman 3rd, Penney’s locations and create “value that vate equity group might then bor- 2 reports it could be bought out by at least two private equity firms. chairman and chief executive of- Penney could not do on its own.” row more money next year. “With BEAUTY: Cosmopolitan Cosmetics and Victoria’s Secret Beauty are ficer, said in a statement, “We Barry concluded that he “ex- the money they borrow, they pay teaming up to launch Anna Sui’s latest scent called Secret Wish. have developed a long-range pects [Penney’s] management to themselves a private dividend, so 6 plan that will be discussed with contest the offer, possibly by buy- they take half of their equity out Escada is turning to a girl’s best friend with the launch of its newest our investors at our analyst ing back a large amount of stock.” and then effectively have zero eq- 7 signature scent feature: an ad campaign dripping with diamonds. meeting on April 19 and 20. We Ullman, who succeeded Allen uity in the deal….They still own Sporting a puff of organza at their throats, Air France’s flight attendants are believe this long-range plan lays Questrom at Penney’s last year the company, but they have no eq- 13 ready for takeoff with curvaceous uniforms from Christian Lacroix. out a strong set of goals and when the board passed over Ca- uity in capital investment from strategies for taking J.C. Penney stagna, is a takeover veteran, hav- the stock,” the buy-side analyst to a leadership position in the ing led the unsuccessful fight said. The firms would likely want SUZY retail industry and will deliver against Federated Department to make their total investment in Prince Albert on the throne…The royal wedding on the telly…Jen gets the value to our investors.” Stores’ purchase of R.H. Macy. Penney’s last around two years, 4 mansion…Demi has hamantaschen…Mariah gets Carey-ed away. Ullman did not comment di- Ullman was ceo of Macy’s. rather than the typical expecta- rectly on reports that Cerberus A Carlyle Group spokesman tion for five to six years. Classified Advertisements...... 19 Capital Management LP and the declined to comment on the pos- One reason a deal where Pen- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Carlyle Group, along with another sible deal. Cerberus Capital did ney’s is bought for its cash flow [email protected], using the individual’s name. private equity player, were con- not return calls. potential is possible — even at WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 templating a move on Penney’s in Penney’s shares closed up the expense of hurting the com- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. a $16 billion to $18 billion lever- $4.02 to $51.92 in New York pany — is because the high yield VOLUME 189, NO. 68. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one aged buyout. Stock Exchange trading, just shy market has too much money in it, additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL But Merrill Lynch analyst of a seven-year high. The com- the buy-side analyst stressed. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Daniel Barry said in a research pany’s market capitalization “At a certain point, [Penney’s] Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill report that a potential deal be- rose to $14.1 billion from around can’t turn down a legitimate Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- tween Cerberus-Carlyle and Pen- $13 billion on Wednesday. offer…even if you feel like the President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at ney’s “has validity” because People familiar with the stock company can’t survive in the additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Vanessa Castagna, the former weren’t surprised with its price long run,” he said. “It’s all pred- No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, number two in charge of Pen- increase, but were mixed on icated on what the high yield ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR ney’s, is joining Cerberus as a whether the potential transaction market will swallow.” DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is senior member of its operations makes sense largely because the Yet, a different buy-side ana- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new team and executive chairwoman estimated price is too high. lyst echoed the views of others in subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, of Mervyn’s department stores, If the private equity firms the equity investment market, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild which Cerberus partly owns. paid that much, it would make it saying a buyout of Penney’s does- magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Barry speculated that the difficult for them to realize an n’t make sense because the price screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive deal’s price tag might be higher adequate return on investment, is too high. “I can’t see how a pri- these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED than the $16 billion to $18 bil- should they own the company vate equity guy will get the math MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND lion number floated in the mar- for around five years. to work at that type of level,” said TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ket on Wednesday, citing im- The possible $16 billion to Francis Radano of Gartmore WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE proved margin opportunity at $18 billion price tag would make Global Investments, whose firm ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Penney’s. “EBIT margin was 7.2 each share of Penney’s stock owns shares of Penney’s. “J.C. percent last year, up from 1.2 worth $56 to $63. Still, one Penney is already trading with percent in 2000, and our fore- hedge fund player, who holds a the assumption of 8 percent cast is 7.9 percent this year,” position in shares of Penney, EBIT margins, which are much Barry wrote. “New management hoped for a deal that could go as closer to peak than trough — if Quote of the Week has said that its target is 8 per- high as $65 a share. not at peak levels.” cent to 10.5 percent.” A buy-side analyst at a New — With contributions from “I think designing is Vicki M. Young The analyst said Penney’s York-based hedge fund speculat- something I could get really good at. It comes Benetton Net Up, but Sales Seen Falling naturally for me.” — Gwen Stefani By Amanda Kaiser company said this year’s revenue sual clothing, its core business, should oscillate between 1.62 bil- dropped 4.8 percent to 1.5 billion MILAN — A lower tax rate lion euros, or $2.16 billion at cur- euros, or $1.97 billion at average boosted Benetton’s 2004 profits rent exchange, and 1.65 billion exchange, but the company said on declining sales, but the com- euros, or $2.16 billion. Earnings volumes were constant. In Brief pany warned that 2005 earnings before interest and taxes should The company also said its and revenue figures will drop. come in at about 9.5 to 10 per- board is appointing Alessandro ● COUNTING GROWS: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said Net profit for the year ended cent of sales while net profit will Benetton, son of chairman Luci- Thursday a switch to new International Financial Reporting Dec. 31 grew 14.1 percent to 123 be about 6 percent of sales. That ano Benetton, as co-vice chair- Standards would increase its 2004 net income by 18 percent, million euros, or $161.1 million works out to a net profit of 99 man to flank Carlo Benetton. pushing it further into the 10 figures to 1.2 billion euros, or $1.56 at average exchange rates for million euros, or $129.7 million, The board named a new inde- billion at current exchange. The change is thanks to the suppres- the period, boosted by a lower in the best-case scenario. pendent board member, Giorgio sion of goodwill amortization. The luxury giant said the new tax rate. Pretax profit was flat A Benetton spokesman said Brunetti, to replace interim mem- standards, effective since Jan. 1, do not otherwise significantly at 165 million euros, or $216.2 2005 results will suffer as the ber Sergio De Simoi. Brunetti is a change measures of its financial performance, including its million. company carries out a plan to Bocconi University professor and debt-to-equity ratio. Revenue for the period fell help out its franchisees. The sits on the boards of companies 9.3 percent to 1.69 billion euros, company will sell goods to fran- such as bookstore chain Messag- or $2.21 billion. Benetton blamed chisees at a discount, allowing gerie Libri and Benetton family- unfavorable exchange rates and these retailers to pass on lower controlled restaurant firm Auto- the 2003 sale of its sporting goods prices to final consumers or use grill. In 2003, the Benetton family Clarification unit for the decline, and said rev- the savings to invest in infra- said it wanted to take a step back In an article on men’s magazines on page 24, March 4, circulation enue would have lost 3.8 percent, structure such as renovation or from day-to-day involvement in figures filed by Maxim and Stuff for the second half of 2004 were stripping out those two factors. expansion, he said. the company. compared with figures filed by FHM for the first half of the year. Benetton cut its full-year 2004 Market observers and ana- Meanwhile, Benetton is nego- A comparison of all three titles’ second-half numbers shows that sales estimates three times over lysts said Benetton is losing tiating with banks for a new re- FHM acquired 37.1 percent of its new subscriptions during that the past few months, in Septem- ground to trendier mass market volving credit line worth 500 period through agents, compared with 25.5 percent for Maxim ber, November and February. players such as Hennes & Mau- million euros, or $655 million at and 54.2 percent for Stuff. Additionally, during that period, news- Similarly, net profit forecast ritz and Zara. Benetton has dis- current exchange. The company stand sales constituted 31 percent of FHM’s overall circulation, ranges were revised downward missed this theory, saying it is said it will use operating cash compared with 24 percent for Maxim and 22 percent for Stuff. in September and November. catering to a different clientele flow to reimburse 300 million Maxim had newsstand sales of 601,998, FHM’s were 383,420 and Benetton also is forecasting by focusing on quality over price. euros, or $393 million, of bonds Stuff ’s totaled 291,305. declining numbers for 2005. The Benetton said 2004 sales of ca- due this July. ©2005 L’Oréal USA, Inc. radiant andprismatic pure cardinal#67 Because You’re WorthIt. shimmering haircolour www.lorealparis.com multi-faceted ™ 4 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 WWD.COM Royally Broadcast ● A Semi Demi Wedding? ● Carey-ed Away

● Mariah Carey Although it is being “officially” denied every which way, it’s still being whispered — loudly — that Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher are in the midst of planning their wedding and that they have already designed their rings. It is also being denied that Demi is pregnant and that Ashton won’t have to worry about supporting a family now that his movie, “Guess Who,” has hit the top of the box office charts. Last week, Demi and Kutchie-kutchie-koo dressed up as an FBI agent and a gangster, respectively, to celebrate the Jewish holiday of Purim at the Kabbalah Center in Los Angeles. They sang and danced the night away with 400 of their nears and dears. Sorta, kinda, sounds like a wedding rehearsal, doesn’t it, sorta, kinda? ● Mena Suvari has always said that she would never increase her breast size via plastic surgery because it would make her look ridiculous. However, for her recent role in “Beauty Shop,” Mena says she “had to wear a padded bra that boosted me to a 36DD. I got a lot of attention on the film set but I still think I look pretty stupid. Luckily my husband thinks that my little boobs are very sexy.” This last bit of news leads the list of “Too Much Information,” by far. ● Maybe even topping Mena is Heidi Klum, who says, “I feel very sexy when I’m pregnant. You’re more feminine when you’re pregnant and femininity is sexy.” When did you first notice it, Heidi? Not just this minute. Heidi already has a 10-month-old daughter, Leni, with Italian titan Flavio Briatore and is expecting her second child in September with her fiancé, singer Seal. Unfortunately, editors at the German mail-order catalogue Otto, the world’s largest, don’t seem to agree. Heidi, who both modeled and designed her own line of clothing for women and Demi Moore Heidi babies for the catalogue, was Klum let go after announcing her pregnancy. But not to worry, supermom Heidi has enough to keep her busy with her recently released self-help book, “Heidi Klum’s Body of Knowledge,” wherein the Teutonic supermodel offers “8 Rules of Model Behavior” Suzy to readers who dote on By Aileen Mehle information on the runway of life. She also promises that On Thursday, Prince Albert of Monaco her clothing line will be assumed the sovereign duties of his father, available again through Prince Rainier 3rd, because Rainier is not another outlet. Let us pray. eye® currently capable of carrying them out. He ● has been in intensive care for more than a In London, Mariah Carey week. Albert, 47, the only son of Rainier and the Hollywood can still claim the title of diva legend Grace Kelly, has been trained from birth to take on of divas. When she arrived the princely duties of his father, whom he has represented there to promote her new around the world for more than 25 years. This Grimaldi album, “The Emancipation family has reigned over Monaco for seven centuries and of Mimi,” she ordered the Rainier is Europe’s longest-serving monarch. Albert has staff at her hotel to lay out a never been married and, in case he doesn’t produce an heir, red carpet lined with lighted his father changed the country’s constitution in 2003 candles for her arrival at 1:30 allowing Albert to succeed but in turn be succeeded by in the morning with eight Rainier’s older daughter, Princess Caroline, followed by her bodyguards plus her MOORE AND CAREY BY WIREIMAGE MOORE AND CAREY BY older son, Andrea Casiraghi, 20. Rainier’s children, including entourage. Carey was Princess Stephanie and all his grandchildren, are at his Meanwhile, Prince Charles has left Camilla to oversee reportedly spending $100,000 for her three-day stay at the bedside praying for his speedy recovery. all the last-minute details and has flown off on a ski holiday hotel. But you know how people exaggerate. ● in Switzerland with his sons, the Princes William and ● It has just been decided to televise part of the wedding Harry. At Prince Charles’ invitation, the three men have Orlando Bloom, who is only 28, is just about ready to festivities of Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles on been joined by William’s girlfriend of the past few years, sign a contract to star in a new movie as the young 007. He April 8 after all. You will not be able to witness the civil pretty brunette Kate Middleton, with whom William will play the British spy as a teenager at Eton, the ceremony in Windsor Castle’s Ascot Room in Guildhall, shared an elegant house while at school in Scotland. When exclusive English school, in what is being called a prequel which has room for only 30 guests, but you will be able to William was asked in Switzerland if there was a second to the James Bond series. The movie will be called “Young tune in to the 45-minute Service of Prayer and Dedication, royal wedding in the offing, the Prince replied, “No.” It’s a 007” and Orlando appears to be thrilled at the prospect, presided over by the Archbishop of Canterbury, which will complete sentence, you know. saying, “I love the idea, as the young Bond can be far more be held immediately afterward in St. George’s Chapel in ● adventurous and do more stunts and I think probably this Windsor. And it will be quite a show. The bride and groom Here’s the absolute latest on the Brad Pitt-Jennifer is as near as I will get to playing the grown-up James for have chosen choral and orchestral music to be performed Aniston divorce settlement: She will keep the $18 the next 20 years.” I can wait if you can. by the Philharmonia Orchestra and St. George’s Chapel million Beverly Hills mansion the couple spent two ● Choir. Ekaterina Semenchuk, a young Russian soprano, years renovating before love flew out the window. It was Kenneth Jay Lane, James Rosenquist, Robert Wilson, will be flown over to lift her beautiful voice in song, a a last request Brad granted her before she filed the architect Helmut Jahn and Cathy Hardwick (she will be wedding gift from the Marinsky Theatre Trust of St. official court papers last week. When they first introduced by Tom Ford,who worked for the designer early Petersburg. The Prince and Camilla, who will by then be separated and Brad moved into a bungalow at the in his career) are receiving this year’s Pratt Institute’s the Duchess of Cornwall, will enter the chapel to the Beverly Hills Hotel and Jennifer moved back into the Legends Awards at the prestigious art and design school’s music of Albinoni’s Oboe Concerto in D Minor and the house she lived in before they got married, Brad said gala at Gotham Hall on April 19. Pratt trustees Marc Rosen service will conclude with Handel’s Water Music and they planned to sell the mansion and split the money. and Juliana Perian are the night’s chairs. CBS anchor Dana excerpts from works by Bach for the organ. There will be Whether she’s paying for half the house or he’s giving it Ty l e r will be the mistress of ceremonies at the event, which 750 guests at this 45-minute event, including Queen to her as a parting gift is not known. But really, do raises money for scholarships for its talented students who Elizabeth and Prince Philip. people still care? need financial aid. The first 3-in-one shopping magazine for fashion/home/beauty announces:

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Contact: Cindy Lewis, VP/Publisher (212) 649-3013 6 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 The Beauty Report Anna Sui’s Got a Secret By Julie Naughton and Brid Costello wants and needs to dream,” she said. “Childlike ele- ments and adults believing in optimism are key ele- NEW YORK — Cosmopolitan Cosmetics and Victoria’s ments of all my collections — and this fragrance fol- Secret Beauty have a little secret for Anna Sui fans. lows that trend.” The two beauty giants are teaming up to launch the Sui’s Secret Wish targets females aged 15 to 25, al- designer’s latest scent, Secret Wish, in Victoria’s though Sui said, “While its initial appeal may be to a Secret Beauty doors later this month, adding to the re- younger consumer, her mom will be buying it too.” tailer’s portfolio of 13 private label scents. The single-page advertising campaign for the new While Victoria’s Secret Beauty has a few other scent — which is being run in Europe and also may third-party scents in its doors — French lingerie run in the U.S. later this year — was shot by Steven queen Chantal Thomass’ fragrance, for example — Meisel and features model Jessica Stam surrounded this pairing marks the first time that Victoria’s Secret by sparkles, butterflies and flowers. There also will be Beauty has exclusively launched a fragrance that is samples, including miniatures and 1.2-ml. vials. In the not branded under its eponymous product line. U.S., initial marketing is being coordinated through The introduction is part of a new strategy by the re- Victoria’s Secret, although the ad likely will run in the tail giant to introduce a wider range of outside brands U.S. this fall and the image will be used on tester units into its Victoria’s Secret Beauty stores. It will be wherever the fragrance is sold. TV advertising is slat- launched in the U.S. in about 50 of the retailer’s doors ed for both Asia and Europe. at the end of April. Industry sources estimate Secret Wish will gener- “These are the top-performing markets — where ate 400,000 euros, or $521,000, in wholesale volume in we believe we’ll have the greatest opportunity to France during its first 12 months. In the U.S., sources win,” said Sherry Baker, president of Victoria’s Secret estimated, the scent could do $25 million at retail in Beauty. “We’re thrilled to have Secret Wish launch ex- its first year. clusively with Victoria’s Secret, and we think the In France, the eau de toilette will be available in beautiful scent and feminine positioning of Anna 30-, 50- and 75-ml. sprays, which will sell for 29 euros, Sui’s newest creation will resonate with Victoria’s 39 euros and 54 euros, respectively, or $38, $51 and Secret customers.” $70 at current exchange. In the U.S., eau de toilette Baker and other Victoria’s Secret Beauty execu- sprays in 1.7-oz. and 2.5-oz. sizes, $48 and $65 respec- tives declined to discuss details for additional tively, will be sold. Also available for the U.S. market: launches, but sources noted that the retailer is talk- a 6.8-oz. body lotion for $30 and a 6.8-oz. bath and ing to a wide range of companies and could add mul- The Secret Wish ad. shower gel for $28. tiple third-party brands across all beauty categories Going forward, noted Baker, Victoria’s Secret will by yearend. The retailer has also established a sepa- added Marine Gaertner, operational marketing man- continue to develop a comprehensive strategy for the rate marketing team to facilitate the entry of these ager in France for numerous beauty brands, including introduction of third-party brands at Victoria’s Secret brands — including color, fragrance, body care and Anna Sui, Dunhill and Trussardi, which are licensed across all beauty categories. “The strategy will evolve skin care — into its stores. As well, Victoria’s Secret to Procter & Gamble’s Cosmopolitan division. It will as we get results from initial tests,” she said. “One of has identified a group of 10 Lab Stores to test various be sold in Asia beginning this spring. the unique competitive advantages of conducting tests merchandising techniques, selling strategies and as- Secret Wish’s juice, concocted by Robertet’s Michel within our stores is that we can allow the customer to sortment concepts. Almairac, is a musky, floral, fruity scent with top notes vote and then adapt the strategy to meet her needs. “Victoria’s Secret is a perfect place for Anna Sui,” of lemon, tagete and melon. Notes of black currant Introducing third-party fragrances aims to enhance said Don Loftus, president and chief executive offi- and pineapple are at its heart, while base notes in- the experience for Victoria’s Secret customers, cer of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics USA. “The customer clude white cedar, amber and musk. whether it’s by offering a new olfactive experience or who will love this product is shopping at Victoria’s The flacon, designed by Marc Wittenberg of providing choice among products with a complemen- Secret today, and this is a perfect way to meet a new Iconomy, has three faces decorated with floral de- tary positioning that leverage Victoria’s Secret brand customer and introduce her to the fragrance.” Sui signs. Its fairy-topped cap, meant to embody the fairy- equities. Whereas Victoria’s Secret products will al- will do personal appearances in Victoria’s Secret tale aspect of Sui’s world, was created by Lisi ways be dominant, third parties provide a unique op- doors for the product at launch and the scent will be Cosmetics. “It’s like a lucky charm,” said Gaertner. “All portunity for accelerated growth. And, with Secret exclusive to Victoria’s Secret at least until August, women think there’s a lucky star above us when some- Wish being exclusive to Victoria’s Secret, we are par- said Loftus. thing nice happens, or wish upon it when we want ticularly excited about the potential.” The scent will also be launched in Europe in May, something to happen.” For her part, Sui is looking forward not only to Sui has a similar view: “With the way launching the scent, but also interacting with her con- that the times are, we’re all looking for a sumer at personal appearances at Victoria’s Secret little fantasy,” she said. “Fantasy is such Beauty and in selected doors in Taiwan and in an important part of my fashion, and it was London later this month. an ideal concept for this brand.” Sui noted “I get to meet everyone from young girls who come in that the popularity of such movies as “The with their mothers to design students,” said the design- Lord of the Rings” and “Harry Potter” er. “I love to meet them — and I love for them to see adds strength to that point. “Everyone that there actually is a person behind this brand.”

telecommunications conglomerate, Hutchison Whampoa Ltd., now holds more than 90 percent of the beauty retailer’s capital and voting rights, TOP NOTES according to a statement released Thursday by the Autorité Marchés Financiers, France’s financial THE END OF A BRAND: Wella-owned Tony & Tina Vibrational markets authority. A.S. Watson had stipulated it would Remedies, the former indie brand of color cosmetics and, settle for no less than 50.01 percent of Marionnaud’s most recently, fragrance and skin care, announced ownership when it launched its takeover bid in Thursday that it is “closing its doors.” In an e-mail sent February. The AMF is expected to publish the final via global public relations director Dana Capone, Cristina results of the takeover by Monday. Bornstein (better known as Tina), who cofounded the brand in 1997, stated “Tony and I really do believe that, LATREILLE APPOINTED: Ariane Latreille has been named when you make room in your life, clear away the old, so to director of international marketing for Decléor and say, you make room for new and wonderful things to Carita, a new post based in Paris. She formerly oversaw happen. We’re very excited at the endless possibilities the brands’ international marketing and training teams. that are presenting themselves.” While Yana Chupenko, Decléor and Carita are both owned by Shiseido. the brand’s director of product development and marketing, cited “unforeseen and unexpected DIOR SALES UP: Parfums Christian Dior reported that its circumstances” in an earlier e-mail, neither Bornstein, sales in France last year rose 5.2 percent. The brand nor co-creative president (and co-founder) Anthony Gill, held 9.43 percent of the French market in 2004, were available at press time for further comment. versus 9.39 percent in 2003, the company said, citing figures from tracking firm Secodip. Dior also said it MARIONNAUD TAKEN OVER: Hong Kong billionaire Li ranked first in men’s fragrance, second in women’s Ka-shing has succeeded in taking over Marionnaud scents and in makeup and fifth in skin care. In unit Parfumeries. A.S. Watson, a subsidiary of the sales, Dior held 9.8 percent of the French beauty entrepreneur’s real estate, shipping and market last year, making it the number-one brand. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 7

WWD.COM Escada’s Diamond District Dunhill’s Fresh Start NEW YORK — Designer brand Escada is hoping to Escada) is missing a specific “luxury” scent. PARIS — Cosmopolitan Cosmetics is prove that diamonds are, indeed, a girl’s best The new fragrance’s outer packaging is made getting fresh with its Dunhill license friend with the launch of its newest scent, Escada. from a glittery, diamond-inspired material. While this spring. Launching May 1, the women’s fragrance will Loftus would not comment on numbers, industry The new scent, Dunhill Fresh, tar- feature an advertising campaign that is literally sources estimate Escada could bring in up to $30 gets the modern man, according to dripping with diamonds. The print ads, which in- million in first-year retail sales, with about $15 Marine Gaertner, opera- clude the catchphrase, “A Girl’s Best Friend,” in- million spent on advertising. By August, the fra- tional marketing manager clude a two-page spread that features blonde grance will be available in 400 specialty store in France for numerous model Veronica Varekova in a bejeweled Escada doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman beauty brands, including gown holding the simple glass bottle on the first Marcus and Nordstrom, in addition to Escada Anna Sui, Dunhill and page and a picture of the bottle lying in a pile of boutiques. An additional 800 department store Trussardi, which are li- sparkling diamonds on the second page. There is doors will follow by October for a total of up to censed to Procter & also a single-page ad, 1,500 doors by year-end, Gamble’s Cosmopolitan di- which features only the according to Munafo. vision. “[The target user] bottle in the pile of The juice, which was aspires to a balanced life diamonds. Both will developed by perfumer and is happy to discover break in the September Pierre Bourdon of simple pleasures and profit issues of women’s fashion Fragrance Resources Inc., from the present moment,” magazines. in conjunction with she said. Dunhill Fresh In addition, there are Cosmopolitan Cosmetics’ Added Don Loftus, presi- two television commer- in-house fragrance ex- dent and chief executive officer of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics cials planned, one 30-sec- perts, features top notes of USA, which handles the scent in the U.S.: “Dunhill is such an el- ond spot and another 60- bergamot, black currant, egant, quality brand, and this scent lives up to the image of the second spot, in which a leafy greens, cucumber, brand in every way. Dunhill is a key men’s brand for us — and woman discovers a bottle Italian lemon, sea breeze gives us a great opportunity to hit higher-end male consumers.” of Escada in a pool of dia- accord, freesia and honey- Dunhill Fresh’s bottle, designed by Franzrudolf Lehnert, is monds, as diamonds “fall dew; middle notes of mag- square with ridges engraved in two sides and topped by a sil- from the sky,” according nolia, jasmine, muguet, ver cap. to the company. The com- rose, orange blossom and Its juice, created by Symrise’s Maurice Roucel, features top mercials are expected to peony, and bottom notes of notes of basil, freesia and green. Violet, aquatic floral and iris run in November and amber, musk, nectarine, notes are at its heart, while cedar, a woody leather accord, December 2005. vanilla, orris, patchouli amber, coumarin and patchouli notes make up its drydown. “Escada has a diamond and sandalwood. Loftus An advertising campaign, with model Johannes Hubl, will jewelry collection — it’s a said that the scent lends break as single pages in both the U.S. and Europe. In the U.S., very luxurious brand,” itself to a more sophisti- the ads, which will include scented strips, will begin running said Don Loftus, president cated customer than past in September in major men’s magazines. Samples for the and chief executive officer Escada scents. “This is scent are to include miniatures and 1.2-ml. vials. of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics The one-page Escada ad. more sophisticated,” he Industry sources estimate Dunhill Fresh will ring up USA, which handles said. “If there were a spe- 350,000 euros, or $455,900, in wholesale sales during its first Escada’s beauty lines in the U.S., of the choice to cial-event fragrance, this would be it.” year in France. incorporate the pricey jewels into the fragrance’s The Escada lineup will include three sizes of In the U.S., industry sources estimated that the scent could marketing strategy. “Each Escada fragrance stands eau de parfum: a 1-oz. for $45, a 1.7-oz. for $62 do $15 million at retail in its first year on counter, where it for something, and with this fragrance, they really and a 2.5-oz. for $82. In addition, a 6.7-oz. will be available in about 500 department and specialty want to stand for luxury and purity.” Precious Body Moisturizer will be available for stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue “Escada was missing something in the luxury $40, and a Luxurious Bath & Shower Gel will re- and Sephora. segment in its fragrance lineup,” said Nicholas tail for $35. Loftus added that, unlike the brand’s In France, the eau de toilette will be available in 50- and Munafo, senior vice president of marketing, limited-edition, fashion-inspired fragrances (the 100-ml. sizes, priced at 37 euros and 53 euros, or $48 and $69, training and public relations for Cosmopolitan most recent of which is called Escada Rockin’ respectively. In the U.S., the eau de toilette will be available Cosmetics USA. While neither Munafo nor Loftus Rio), this Escada fragrance is here to stay. “It’s in 1.7-oz. and 3.4-oz. sizes, priced at $45 and $60, respectively. would confirm whether there might be a men’s not the first fragrance for Escada, but it is the Also in the U.S., three ancillaries — a 3.4-oz. aftershave lo- “luxury” scent in store for Escada, it is a possibil- one that is most in line with the image of the tion, $42; a 6.8-oz. shower gel, $28, and a 2.4-oz. deodorant ity, as the brand’s men’s portfolio (which current- brand,” said Loftus. “Hopefully we can build this stick, $19 — will be sold. ly includes seduction-focused scents Magnetism into a really long-term classic.” — Brid Costello and Julie Naughton, New York and Sentiment and the more “classic” scent — Bryn Kenny

shades, $22 each, and B. Young Lip Balm with arctic raspberry, $10 for 15 ml. The B. Young line follows a number of recent launches for the brand. They in- Babor Targets Youth Market clude the Sea Creation line, with “stress-activated” ingredients, in January 2004; White Effect, a skin-lightening collection, in November 2004, and two freestand- NEW YORK — Babor, one of Germany’s most venerable skin care brands, is plan- ing skin care products, Stop 3, an anticellulite gel, and Mimical Control, which ning to give its U.S. business a shot in the arm by appealing to the youth market. Cain calls a “Botox-like” product, in January. The brand will unveil its newest product range, B. Young, in May. The range is Babor’s primary focus is skin care, although the brand also produces body geared to 15- to 30-year-olds and will be available in normal, oily and combina- care, sun care and a color cosmetics range, which Cain promises “will also see tion skin versions. new innovations” in the near future. The line’s secret weapon is a trio of arctic berries While Babor has operated a U.S. division since the early Eighties, until 2003 — raspberries, cranberries and blueberries — that it has operated solely in day and destination spas. In late 2003, the brand help shield skin against harsh conditions, noted added to its reach by adding selected upscale specialty store Paul Cain, president and chief executive officer of doors after establishing a new U.S. division called the Babor in the U.S. fashion cosmetics group. The brand’s current U.S. dis- “Arctic berries are able to survive in the harshest tribution now includes a wide range of spas and a line- of weather conditions, yet they stay plump — just like up of selected specialty stores, including Nordstrom you want skin to do,” said Cain. “By studying these and Takashimaya. Its retailer base includes about 100 berries’ defense mechanisms, we have been able to retail doors, 120 resort and destination spas and 2,000 formulate an extremely effective product line.” day spas. Three versions of the skin-protecting moisturizer In addition, Babor sells directly via its Web site, — B. Young Balance Cream for dry skin, B. Young babor.com, and estimates that it has about 1,500 e- Sensitive Cream and B. Young Combination Cream — commerce customers. It also operates a loyalty pro- will be offered. Each retails for $30 for a 50-ml. jar. gram that drives business from e-tail into bricks-and- Each formula is slightly tweaked to address skin con- Part of the mortar stores. cerns — for instance, the combination cream has rice B. Young range. Cain said that in the next few years he sees the starch to control shine, the sensitive formula has vitamin brand growing to 4,000 to 5,000 U.S. doors, with a total of E to help reduce irritation and the dry skin formula has macadamia nut oil to about 500 specialty store doors, including chains. provide added moisturizing properties. Babor operates its own freestanding day spa, the Babor Institut, in Palm Beach, As well, three products suitable for all skin types will be part of the B. Young Fla. The facility opened in early 1997 and allows the company to get a real-life collection. They include B. Young Moisture Gel, an oil-free gel with arctic algae, read on many of its products — and to showcase its brand positioning, noted Cain. $24 for 50 ml.; B. Young Tinted Day Cream, a 50-ml. tinted moisturizer in two — J.N. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 The Beauty Report B&BW’s Golden Opportunity Clockwise from left: Goldie’s Face Bronzer “We like to go to the edge. Some stuff is super By Andrea Nagel and Body Bronzer; Goldie nail polish and sweet and just darling, then some is on the other the Goldie Face Kit; Goldie Box Lips Cheeks NEW YORK — It’s not like Dineh Mohajer to sit on the sidelines and side, like the Kim Petty stuff,” said Mohajer. and Eyes Kit, and Dineh Mohajer and watch newness and innovation pass her by. After all, the creator of While Goldie is evolving into a 70-plus item Jeanne Chavez. one of the best-known nail polish brands to hit the beauty industry collection, what’s most notable are its kits. — Hard Candy — can’t help but be a part of something fast-paced, Decidedly decorative and funky, the kit con- trendy, fashionable and otherwise beautiful. cept is one the duo will continue down the On this day, Mohajer, 32, and her business partner, Jeanne road, especially themed, seasonal kits that lend Chavez, 42, — who joined Hard Candy a year after it launched in themselves to the artwork Chavez and Mohajer 1996 as vice president of sales — were driving track down when scoping out new talent. from a manufacturing plant in New Windsor, Faust, Mohajer said, heavily supported N.Y., to Manhattan’s ultra hip Hotel their initial beauty ideas for a line focused on Gansevoort. While in town from the West the “Everywoman without boundaries” and in Coast, the two will field several meetings and turn made an “enormous impact on our ability likely spend most of their time in conferences to bring it to market.” with Bath & Body Works, their new retail Faust admits bringing in Goldie was partner for their latest venture: Goldie, a cos- “serendipity”, stemming from a casual metics line that looks to make their beauty conversation about what the three women comeback a big splash. loved in their beauty products to what The duo are a complementary pair. could best fit in with B&BW’s new retail Mohajer is Barneys New York-meets Indie prototype of a beauty apothecary. rock. She talks a mile a minute and can’t “We wanted to do beauty differently help but evoke an image of a free spirit with than how we were doing it before, an unusually high IQ as she jumps from top- which is why we supported the kits ics such as music, art, fashion and lip gloss idea. We want it to be more of a fash- formulas. Chavez comes off as country-club ion purchase than a beauty purchase. conservative, the rock of the two, who may Why is it sometimes easier to spend have built some muscle over the years reel- $400 on a handbag than to decide on ing in her business partner’s wild side a lipstick? We wanted that ease and on more than one occasion. emotional appeal and Jeanne and Dineh It may be this blend of sweet and just nailed it,” said Faust. naughty, princess and punk, that In turn, Goldie was meant to be dras- helped the two create Goldie, which tically different from Hard Candy, which comprises feminine, edgy manicure now has different owners (see related kits, cosmetics bags, lip glosses, nail story, page 9.) Some star products in the polishes, bronzers and face and eye Goldie line include Goldie Face, a dou- makeup. ble-decker compact complete with lip It’s important, too, to mention colors that can be mixed and matched, Leslie Faust, a crucial component two eye shades and two face shades. in the creators’ business reappear- “It’s very gadgety,” said Mohajer, who ance, who first became acquainted said she tried to mimic the look of a with them during her years as vice minimalist iPod, both in beauty and in president and general merchandise portability. manager for cosmetics at Neiman There’s also a Lip Kit that folds out Marcus. Faust, who left the Dallas- into three layers and uses every part of based retailer in January 2004 for Bath & Body Works, was charged to help transform the compact’s surface. There’s a lip the chain into an apothecary of wellness and beauty. She is a main character in the exfoliator, a lip plumper, a lip hydrator, script that brought the three together again early last year. a treatment balm, a stain balm, a heavy Chavez, who spent several years overseeing Hard Candy after Mohajer sold it to lip gloss and a sheer lip gloss. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 1999, left the luxury powerhouse in 2002 to Formulas for bronzers were spend more time with her three young daughters. She did keep her finger on the pulse obsessed over, seeing that Chavez and of the beauty industry, however. Frequent calls were made to Faust to discuss new Mohajer wanted aspects of what was beauty brands she’d see in Los Angeles stores and boutiques near where she lived. already available on the market com- Meanwhile, Mohajer lasted less than a year as creative director of Hard Candy bined with characteristics they loved, too. Months of revisions and testing and more revisions, they think, yielded the Why is it sometimes easier to spend $400 perfect Face Bronzer and Body Bronzer. “ Prices range from $9 for nail polish to on a handbag than to decide on a lipstick? $38 for a cosmetics bag. The Lip Kit — Leslie Faust, Bath & Body” Works costs $22, the Goldie Face Kit costs $28, and bronzers retail from $20 to $22. Goldie is merchandised in B&BW’s under LVMH. Rumors were that she didn’t function well in a corporate environment Beauty Room and is part of their overall and soon ran off to make a dent in the fortune she accumulated from the sale of the color assortment, which also includes brand, which she sold for an undisclosed amount. (Reports had the brand generating products by Awake and Nars. Today, $12 million in wholesale sales the year before the deal was made.) A respite at a spa, Goldie is featured in B&BW’s new C.O.

travel, eating too much and racking up an estimated $16,000 hotel bill at The THOMAS IANNACCONE BY CHAVEZ GEORGE CHINSEE; MOHAJER, PRODUCT PHOTOS BY Bigelow concept store in Columbus, Peninsula in Manhattan were among some of her stints, but today the former medical Ohio, as well as in about 70 B&BW student sees the value in keeping her mind busy. stores. Over the next few months, the line will roll out to several hundred more “I hadn’t been in a place where I was expressing any creative juices because I was B&BW stores. B&BW has approximately 1,600 stores. Whether Goldie will launch dormant for so long. Plus, I was pretty young to have a bank account like that. That chainwide is still being decided, Faust said, so annual sales are difficult to estimate. was fancy for me,” she recalled. What also sets Goldie apart is a lack of marketing plans: “We never really did that And in March 2004, the seed for a new business plan was planted. at Hard Candy,” Chavez said. And no, there aren’t plans to get into it now. Growing the After Chavez got Mohajer “to buckle down and get motivated” the two came up brand slowly is how Chavez and Mohajer plan to proceed. with a concept that answered both their “cravings, needs and desires,” in terms of Do the two feel they limited themselves by choosing to launch in B&BW? Not at all. being a woman. “We feel that B&BW represents the best things in beauty right now. There is no bet- “It was just a merging of ideas,” said Chavez of their new line, which tends to ter place to feature your products,” Mohajer said. appeal to women who are as much in love with fashion as beauty products. Indeed, the retailer is making inroads, first with its C.O. Bigelow effort, which Goldie, which “doesn’t mean anything,” is merely a name the two saw as ageless opened in October and packs hundreds of beauty brands in one setting, such as Acqua and nonspecific. “We didn’t want to overthink anything,” Mohajer said. di Parma, Biotherm, Slatkin & Co. and Mercier bath and body products. About six to The line offers elegant color palettes that are wearable and functional, yet there’s seven C.O. Bigelow stores are planned to roll out in 2005. something inherently refreshing about them. Packaging, for one, can be described as Already Chavez and Mohajer are fielding calls from former retail customers look- going head to head with what’s inside boxes: Kits feature sketches designed by Kim ing to get their hands on Goldie, but Mohajer said Hard Candy taught them a valuable Petty, the daughter of musician Tom Petty, and were inspired by a short film she business lesson. developed, “Alice Cooper in Wonderland.” “At Hard Candy we grew distribution at such an alarming rate it came to bite us in The duo spends a lot of time researching young new artists from London to Los the behind. We want to take care of this brand,” she said, referring to the former Angeles to Australia to decorate their products’ boxes and bottles. brand’s inventory shortages and distribution problems that once irritated retailers. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 9

WWD.COM Food Stores Plan for Makeup Sales Gains

PRINCETON, N.J. — At a six-month-old Whole Foods Market here, shoppers can find all of their beauty needs in one location. Not only can they buy freshly baked organic breads, they can procure all-natural cosmetics and hair care in a large beauty care department located in the center of the store. Over the past few years, health and beauty has become a bigger part of the 169- store Whole Foods equation. But Whole Foods isn’t the only supermarket fattening up on beauty. At a time when drug chains are shrinking cosmetics departments, su- permarkets are beefing them up. Manufacturers also are putting more effort into the trade channel. Revlon, for ex- ample, is continuing on the success of what it dubs the Revlon Express program, a condensed and convenient offering of the brand’s most popular lip, face, eye and nail products. Revlon Express was introduced in 2004 in a four foot wall configuration. New for 2005 is an Express Spinner, which contains the same full category assort- ment as Revlon’s 4-foot Express wall, but on a spinning rack. “Now any retailer with four empty tiles in their store can offer a complete cos- metic category to their shoppers,” said David Gugino, vice president, customer marketing for Revlon. Revlon Express and other manufacturer-driven pro- Critical Mass grams are designed to tempt shoppers while they are on food-shopping trips. Even with these efforts, however, su- By Faye Brookman permarket sales lagged last year. Face makeup sales dropped 4.1 percent to $136 million in supermarkets for the 52-week period ended Jan. 23, according to Information Resources Inc. Nail dipped 5.3 percent to $99 million, lip declined 10.3 percent to $84 million and eye was off 4.2 Whole Foods sells natural beauty products to survive in beauty. percent to $134 million for the same period. All cosmetics categories declined across all mass outlets except eye, according to the IRI statistics. Cover Girl and Sally Hansen nail care. With Revlon’s push into food, more and more Vowing to reverse the drop, supermarkets are adopting three different philoso- stores have added Revlon. In these stores, beauty only represents one aisle and the phies for surviving in beauty. The basic strategies are selling exclusive natural products are rarely promoted. The best examples of convenient sets include products, convenient selections or full-blown beauty presentations. ShopRite, Kings, Publix, Winn-Dixie and Safeway. Sometimes within these chains, Whole Foods represents the natural route — a collection of natural beauty prod- however, there will be certain stores that fall into the full-blown category. “One thing ucts are housed in the all-natural food setting. Most of these products are only avail- you have to remember is that cosmetics are a slow-turning category that the super- able at stores such as Whole Foods or Wild Oats. Whole Foods calls its beauty area market industry is not used to,” said Gary Crawford, who oversees nonfoods at Whole Body. One store in Manhattan has a freestanding area devoted solely to beau- United Supermarkets. But, he said, when done right, beauty can boost margins. ty. Last week, Whole Foods unveiled a new unit in Union Square with a makeup sta- Supermarkets with extensive beauty care departments such as Wegmans and HEB tion featuring a testing area where consumers can select samples to take home. sell almost every brand offered to the mass market. In some cases, these stores have According to a Whole Foods spokesman, plans call for another New Jersey store to more beauty inventory than competing drugstores. One retailer, Kowalski’s, even has open in Middletown this summer. an Aveda salon situated in one of its stores. Many experts think these chains will be The natural beauty products industry has become more sophisticated in the past the next to follow in chain drugstore’s footsteps and add upscale skin care selections. five years. For example, ShiKai makes natural hair care inspired by John Frieda “There are plenty of opportunities for supermarkets to make a bigger connection with formulas to enhance brown and blonde hair. There are also C.O. Bigelow-style between women’s health and beauty,” suggested Roy White, vice president of educa- products under the Maxwell’s Apothecary logo. tion for the General Merchandise Distributors’ Council. “When that’s accomplished, New marketers have joined natural staples such as Burt’s Bees, Ecco Bella, Jason the food channel will show positive cosmetics gains.” and Kiss My Face. The shelves at Whole Foods also feature Desert Essence, Aura ● ● ● Cacia, Nature’s Gate, Bach and Masada. Capitalizing on its food heritage, Whole Ice Box Inc. signed a deal last week for the rights to distribute Tinkerbell Foods merchandises beauty adjacent to nutritionals and distributes coupon books Cosmetics. Created as a safe “play” cosmetics line for children, Tinkerbell has been linking beauty and vitamins. used by three generations of girls. The brand was phased out by Dana after it ac- Convenient cosmetics departments are represented at the bulk of the nation’s su- quired Renaissance Cosmetics. Now, Ice Box’s Isaac Gindi plans to resurrect the line, permarkets. In these stores, the selection is tight and features mostly Maybelline, which includes princess-themed beauty products such as peel-off nail polish. Hard Candy Takes a Back-to-Basics Approach to Beauty

NEW YORK — When Wende Zomnir took over duties as in the brand’s original square bottle and feature the orig- launch in June and features a — you guessed it — lol- creative director of Hard Candy in the spring of 2003, inal simple jelly rings — minus the jewel that has been lipop shape and candy-inspired plastic wrapping. “We try the brand had lost its original luster. “When [Dineh included on the ring as of late — on the bottle’s cap. to have a fun grab-and-go item that’s priced under $10,” Mohajer] founded Hard Candy, it was so right on, and “It’s an iconic item that made such an impact on the she said. This spring, the brand also will launch several then it lost its way,” said Zomnir. “It was trying to be whole industry,” said Zomnir of the decision to return to the other items, including Training Brow Eyebrow Pencil something it wasn’t, it was trying to be edgy like Urban original packaging. Over the years, the bottle had morphed and Gel, a $10, double-ended product, and a $12 Candy Decay, rather than girly, fun and cool.” into a slimmer, more rectangular shape. “When we started Coating Lip Gloss, which features pen-like packaging. In “Girly, fun and cool” are words the founding partner pulling out vintage product to get inspiration, everyone addition, bringing back color names such as Pussy Kat and creative director of the more “edgy” Urban Decay kept saying how much they loved it.” However, and Jailbait while doing away with some of the more brand often uses in describing the direction she’s taking nail polish formulas and colors were updated shocking names is another tactic to keep things young Hard Candy, which was purchased in 1999 by LVMH Moët from more opaque pastels to sheer, iridescent and fun without going overboard, according to Zomnir. “I Hennessy Louis Vuitton from Mohajer and then sold to colors, in line with today’s trends. don’t think we could get away with Pimp or Porno any- Miami-based Falic Group in 2002. Of course, Zomnir’s changes to the brand more,” she said, referring to some former color names. But in the last two years, Zomnir have not always been homage-inspired, such Today, Hard Candy is sold in Ulta, select Nordstrom has not swayed from her vision of as the complete packaging overhaul, price stores and Sephora, and continues to be a strong per- bringing the brand back to its roots, point slashing and the discontinuation of former in the latter retailer, according to Betsy Olum, resulting in strong growth for the more than 80 percent of Hard Candy’s origi- senior vice president of marketing for Sephora. “It’s company, which posted retail sales of nal stockkeeping units. “We felt like the retail doing very well,” said Olum. “The success [of the brand] about $10 million in 2003 and is expect- pricing was too high for Hard Candy’s cus- is driven in large part by their consistency — in the ing to double that number for 2005. tomer,” said Zomnir, who describes the branding of the products, in their uniqueness at a good As part of that back-to-basics strat- brand’s core user as “young, gorgeous and price point. Hard Candy targets a younger client, and it’s egy, and in honor of the brand’s 10th sophisticated at the same time.” nice to see that their products and pricing reflect that.” anniversary, Zomnir will reintro- A more streamlined approach to the Olum added that a palette from the brand, called The duce Sky nail polish, a baby blue Some of Hard Candy’s upcoming launches. brand’s packaging and the decision to Lunch Box, which includes lip, eye and face products, con- color that helped launch the brand do away with more “trendy” items, tinues to do “very well” since its launch over the holiday in 1995, in addition to five other colors (Frigid, a sheer according to Zomnir, have resulted in about 64 percent season, and that Hard Candy’s palettes in general have been light blue; Jailbait, a lavender shade; Pussy Kat, a spark- growth for the brand since she took over. “The first step was “among our top-selling palettes in the month of February.” ly pink; Tantrum, a shimmery lime, and Trailer Trash, a to focus on what the brand looked like with the new pack- Olum’s enthusiasm gives Zomnir all the reason to gunmetal silver) to Hard Candy counters in June. The aging and to try and keep it really consistent,” she said. be very optimistic about the brand’s continued suc- move is a bit of an homage to Mohajer, who used her “Now we’re going to have more fun and be a little more play- cess. “The future is limitless,” she said. “I’m just real- premed chemistry knowledge in 1995 to create the blue ful with the brand — sassier and saucier.” ly excited to put out a complete line for young women, hue, hoping to match her nails to a pair of strappy blue Zomnir said this more “playful” side is evident in new created [with] them in mind.” heels. In addition, the revamped polishes are packaged items such as the Lollipop Lip Gloss, a $6 item that will — Bryn Kenny HARD CANDY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY HARD CANDY © 2005 The Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

12 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM Retail: Antin’s New Reality By Molly Prior Shampoo with a dollop of Volumizing Shampoo — to achieve their desired look. “The theory is to mix and match,” said Antin. “It’s like layering clothing.” NEW YORK — There are few things riskier than reality television and retail. Ten years ago, Antin “cracked open the piggy bank” to create his first hair care Hollywood, Calif.-based hairstylist Jonathan Antin has ambitions of mastering both. collection, called A Jonathan Product. The star product of the line, Dirt — a texturiz- Antin, best known for his headline role in Bravo’s reality TV series, “Blow Out,” will ing paste designed to give squeaky-clean hair a sexy, day-after-washing look — has introduce his eponymous collection, Jonathan Product, to Sephora and QVC in June. been reformulated and is found in the new collection, as well. “This time, I wanted to The hairstylist, who counts Kate Bosworth and Leonardo make the best hair care line possible,” said Antin. DiCaprio among his star-studded clientele, chalks up his celebrity Jonathan That said, he recruited two industry virtuosos for the task: Tina appeal to just being a “normal guy” who is still in the trenches, cut- Antin Hedges, executive vice president of marketing and development, and ting hair at one of his two salons in West Hollywood and Beverly Beth Ann Catalano, executive vice president of sales and education. Hills. The impeccably groomed hairstylist confessed he knows In four months time, the trio developed the Jonathan Product what it’s like to have a bad hair day. As a child, Antin struggled to brand, created 15 products and shored up the line’s retail strategy, tame what he described as his uncooperative, thick Jewish hair. said Hedges, whose curriculum vitae includes a stretch at Parfums Today, his Hollywood good looks play well on television. Christian Dior, various roles with Estée Lauder Cos. and a post Despite his difficult-boss persona on “Blow Out” — a reality show within L’Oréal’s Global Research & Development Team. that documented the opening of his Beverly Hills salon — Antin Hedges emphasized that, despite the “obscenely bullet-fast” has signed on for a second season, which will premiere in June. pace of product development, items in the line boast unique at- This time around, “Blow Out” will chronicle the making of tributes — the most notable of which is essential water. Given the Jonathan Product. Bravo’s Web site for “Blow Out” promises view- typical shampoo is made up of 80 percent water, the makers ers, “more tears, more drama and more celebrity hair.” thought it paramount to infuse Jonathan Product with purified QVC’s director of beauty merchandising Allen Burke acknowl- water enriched with botanical extracts, such as sage, basil, lemon- edged that initially he had some reservations about taking on grass and cucumber rose, explained Hedges. Jonathan Product in light of the blowups on “Blow Out.” As Burke This process will help yield a more predictable result regardless attests, on TV, the person selling the product is nearly as impor- of the type of water — hard or soft — running through the shower- tant as the product itself. Burke said his misgivings were quickly head. That said, the company has other products planned that will mitigated after meeting with Antin in person: help control the water used to wash hair. “He’s a genuinely nice guy” who is passionate Select Although she would not discuss details, Hedges about his work. Burke also commented that he items from declared, “We plan to own the water category.” liked the Jonathan Product message of “simple Jonathan Catalano, who oversees the retail side of the hair and how to get there.” As for Antin’s reality- Product. business, anticipates the line will be available in show ties, QVC will open its studio doors to the 175 doors its first year. And while the company is Bravo camera crew — as it did for Donald entertaining the idea of international distribution Trump and his “The Apprentice” pack — for (after all, “Blow Out” is seen in 55 countries), the Antin’s debut on the network. plan is to contain Jonathan Product within 200 Behind the bright lights, cameras and halo of doors for the next several years, said Catalano, celebrity, Jonathan Product is designed to deliver who built relationships with retailers during her results, assures Antin. The four-tiered, color-coded years at Chanel, La Prairie and Lancôme. collection consists of Shampoo (silver), Condition Though Antin and his team would not com- (gold) and Create and Finish (bronze) products. ment on sales, industry source estimate Jon- Each of the 15 items in the collection is designed athan Product will reap $5 million in the first to balance nature and technology. Formulas are year of retail sales. based on the premise that water is the key element The key component for the company’s retail

of great hair. The items are also free of sulfates ARKY DAVID PHOTO BY strategy rests squarely on the shoulders of beau- (detergents commonly used in hair products and household cleansers to create a lath- ty advisers, said Catalano. The company is working with Sephora’s “cast members” er). Instead, the formula contains sugar-derived surfactants designed to clean — and on ways to educate shoppers about sulfates and the role of essential waters. create a rich lather — without stripping hair. Shampoo and conditioner bottles bare a “What’s most interesting is Jonathan’s innovative approach of fusing nature and striking resemblance to the sleek cylinder shape of Voss water. Product labels (in one of technology,” commented Betsy Olum, senior vice president of marketing for three metallic shades) run vertically down bottles and tubes. A quote from Antin ex- Sephora. “The line is 100 percent sodium sulfate-free, vegan and incorporates four plaining how he likes to use the product appears on each bottle. Underneath it, the different types of botanical infused essential waters.” She added that Sephora views company calls attention to natural ingredients, including essential water, protein, ex- celebrity hairstylist-created hair care as a strong growth opportunity. Antin will flex tracts and botanical blends, and lists their particular benefits. Items in the collection his pseudocelebrity muscle by making a few personal appearances at Sephora, the range from $18 for Redo, a mist that freshens hair and absorbs oils, to $26 for Create first of which is scheduled to take place in late May at Sephora’s Fifth Avenue store. Curl serum. Shampoos and conditioners will sell for $20 and $22, respectively. As for Antin’s second season of “Blow Out,” Hedges acknowledged: “It’s a mar- Antin encourages clients to mix products — for instance, a dab of Moisturizing keter’s dream.” Damone Roberts Builds High-Brow Society NEW YORK — Damone Roberts, the self-professed pays homage to his clientele with pencil and brow shadow Damone “Eyebrow King,” is a walking advertisement. His brows are shades, such as Beverly Hills Blonde (blonde), Latte (light Roberts’ so astonishingly perfect that they spark conversation — not brown), Minx (dark brown), Ginger (auburn) and Miss Ross deluxe to mention a flurry of “how-to” questions. His brow-sculpt- (soft black). Roberts, a makeup artist by training, added a Brow Kit ing skills also can be spotted on celebrities such as Brow Highlighter to the mix to accentuate the perfect eye- retails for Madonna and Molly Sims and on TLC’s new makeover brow arch. The highlighter is available in three $150. show, “10 Years Younger,” where Roberts works in shades: Pink-a-Boo (pink), Bling Bling (platinum) tandem with a “Glam Squad” to take a decade off and Gold Digger (gold). participants’ appearances without surgery. A standout product in the line is Brow Gain, He operates out of his eponymous salon in a gel that is much like the over-the-counter hair Beverly Hills — the home turf of reigning eye- growth treatment Rogaine and is designed to brow queen Anastasia Soare — shaping some stimulate hair follicles and thicken brows. 50 pairs of brows a day. In the two years since The crème de la crème of the collection is Roberts opened his flagship salon, his “eye- Brow Kit, for $150. The purple felt-lined kit is brow empire” — as Roberts refers to his busi- filled with tweezers, scissors, Brow Shadow, Brow ness — has grown to include a studio in The Highlighter, Brow Pencil, Brow Gel, Brow Smudge Bellagio Hotel Spa in Las Vegas, which opens this Brush, Brow Angled Brush and a two-ended sharpener. month. His latest endeavor is an eyebrow-styling line Damone Roberts will stock his product line in his salon comprising products Roberts deems essential for brow Roberts and at The Bellagio Hotel Spa for the time being, as care. Don’t expect to find eyebrow stencils in the as- he considers a retail strategy. Though retail distribu- sortment. Roberts cannot bear the site of them because in tion may be on the back burner, Roberts has set his sites on his view, “Every face deserves a perfect frame.” the East Coast. The brow guru was in Manhattan last week Each item in the line — ranging from a $20 Brow scouting out locations for a New York salon, preferably in Shadow to a $30 tweezer — is outfitted in the colors of the proximity to Henri Bendel. Beverly Hills salon: soft teal and eggplant purple. Roberts — M.P. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 13 WWD.COM

Two looks by Christian Lacroix Lacroix’s Friendly Skies for Air France. By Miles Socha tory of enlisting couture greats, from Christian Dior in 1962 to Jean Patou in 1976, who was tapped to dress per- PARIS — Sporting a cloud-like puff of organza at their sonnel for the Concorde in an early incarnation of fast- throats, Air France’s flight attendants are ready for fashion. takeoff with curvaceous new uniforms designed by Design legend Cristobal Balenciaga also lent his tal- Christian Lacroix. ent in 1969, turning out a uniform that recently in- To be worn by 36,000 of the carrier’s employ- spired the house’s current designer, Nicolas ees starting Tuesday, the looks are slated to be Ghesquière, who, incidentally, got his start at unveiled today at the Palais de Tokyo contem- Balenciaga designing uniforms and other licensed porary art museum here. products. In an exclusive preview, Lacroix told WWD As a wardrobing opportunity, airlines long have about his most far-reaching fashion assignment held obvious allure for designers, accustomed to to date, his long fascination with “stew- dressing beautiful young women walking up and ardess” style — and how he managed down an aisle. During the glory days of com- to tame his decorative impulse to mercial air travel, “you never saw a jiggle,” meet the airline’s tradition of neat, recalled Stan Herman, arguably America’s subtly aristocratic uniforms. best-known uniform designer, whose clients “I had to find the simplest every- range from Federal Express to Amtrak. thing in order to convince every- He noted that, during the Seventies and body,” Lacroix said. “I had to find a Eighties, competition to design uniforms reassuring and handsome look was particularly heated. For example, translating comfort, French culture Hollywood costume designer Edith and safety.” Head went hemline-to-hemline with For inspiration, Lacroix was Halston and ultimately triumphed in able to draw on a lifetime’s fasci- a bid to outfit Pan Am’s crew. nation with fashions worn by air- Tastes were fickle and the line personnel. He recalled the stakes were high. Bill Blass once Fifties’ “army-style nurse be- proposed plaid for American having like a mother,” the Airlines “and it never did fly,” trendy beauties of the Sixties Herman noted. and Seventies epitomizing Other famous designers who “Parisian chic with a little have tackled airline uniforms range drop of futurism” and the from Valentino and Calvin Klein to bourgeois style of the Eighties, Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin, con- when flight attendants resem- tracted by Pakistan International to bled elegant French ladies design a pajama-like ensemble with welcoming guests at their head-covering dupatta.

homes for lunch or dinner. Valerie Steele, director of The STEPHANE GALLOIS ACROIX PHOTOS BY Lacroix’s proposition Museum at FIT, said uniforms L for 2005 and beyond is were “more playful and high- Among airlines getting failing grades from journalist neither militaristic nor fashion” in the days when flight and design consultant Tyler Brule are Virgin Atlantic fashion-oriented — and attendants were still known as and China Airlines, both described as “dreadful,” and it’s not even very uniform-like. stewardesses. Air Canada, whose employees are up in arms over a “I don’t like weird, too mannish or too mili- Emilio Pucci’s designs for Braniff International in style endorsed by Celine Dion, but not Brule: “It’s a one- tary looks without femininity,” he explained. the Sixties are widely hailed — including by Lacroix, button jacket: really bad news.” “The idea of seeing everybody clad the same the current designer of Pucci — for their eye-popping By contrast, Korean carrier Asiana gets a big thumbs- is not really my cup of tea. I much prefer colors and bubble helmets that stewardesses lamented up for its taupe skirt suits with a mandarin collar. “If uniforms letting the personality, self-indi- made hearing difficult. (But they also could protect Uma Thurman had been a flight attendant in ‘Gattaca,’ viduality or character appear.” their hair from wind and rain by putting a pillbox hat or that’s what she would have looked like,” Brule said. So Air France personnel — from ticket scarf over their bouffants.) Steele and Brule agreed uniforms at U.S. airlines agents to pilots — will have about 100 apparel In more recent years, uniforms have taken on more generally pale next to their European and Asian coun- and accessories items from which to chose. The authoritative airs, especially in the U.S., where atten- terparts, which view airlines as a matter of national core item for women is a waist-conscious jacket with dants are regarded primarily as safety personnel. pride and branding. what Lacroix describes as “very couture pagoda “There’s no more of that ‘coffee, tea or me’ atti- There is hope, however, Steele noted, with new air- shoulders.” Other key items are slim trousers, redin- tude,” Steele quipped. “Now, flight attendants lines such as Jet Blue and Song seeking the input of de- gotes and parkas, all in dark navy and sky blue with have a more militaristic style. They look more like signers Herman and Kate Spade, respectively. Also, red accents. actual pilots.” Richard Tyler received positive reviews for the uni- The Lacroix uniforms usher in the first major change Observers note that uniforms typically reflect the forms he designed for Delta Air Lines, paraded on the since 1987 at Air France, which has gotten by with a fa- fashions of the times and can be dated easily. Air runway alongside his collection in New York last mous shirtwaist dress by Carven and variations on other France, for example, had short, trapeze shapes in the February. uniforms from that year by Nina Ricci, Georges Rech Sixties, prints and midiskirts in the Seventies and For Herman, Ralph Lauren’s designs for TWA rank and Louis Féraud. Lacroix’s designs for Air France are broad-shouldered jackets in the Eighties. as the best airline uniform of all time since his blazers expected to remain in service for at least 10 years. More recently, as the airport and flight experience oozed class and authority — right up until the airline Despite the recent fashion rut, Air France has a his- has deteriorated, so has the glamour factor. went out of business in 2001.

Balenciaga Stan Herman did Emilio Pucci’s did this these TWA uniforms for Air France uniforms in the Braniff in the uniform in Seventies. Sixties. 1969.

Christian Dior for Air France in 1962. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 WWD.COM Media MEMO PAD THE WEEKLY GRIND: Brad Weekly? In Touch With the Olsens? At the rate things are going, it won’t be long before there’s a celebrity news magazine for every star in Hollywood. The latest to pile on is Us Weekly publisher Wenner Media, which is incubating a new weekly offering that it hopes to launch toward the end of the year. Wenner officials had no comment, but sources said the new title was likely to take the form of a news- driven lifestyle tabloid along the lines of Bauer Publishing’s Life & Style and American Media Inc.’s soon-to-appear Celebrity Living. Freelance designers are currently at work on a secret prototype. If it wins approval, it will be Wenner’s first launch since the founding of Men’s Journal in 1992 (not counting Us’ move from a monthly to a weekly in 2000). According to one source in the weekly Amy Gross market, Wenner would like to introduce the new title within six months. It’s unclear, however, whether the company could acquire the additional newsstand pockets necessary in such a short time. AMI is said to be freeing up pockets for Celebrity Living by taking them away from two of its old-line tabloids, the Globe and the Examiner. Living in the Shadow of O One factor sure to be figuring in Wenner’s calculations is the expected introduction of OK, a popular British tabloid, into the U.S. later this year. Owner Richard Desmond By Jeff Bercovici women’s magazines, including O. “For announced plans for a U.S. launch in January, but that was before a court scotched me, it feels like philosophy-slash-psy- his plans to have Nicola McCarthy, whom Desmond poached from Us Weekly, serve as NEW YORK — As a preeminent female chology rather than religion.” editor. The court ruled last month that McCarthy remains bound by her noncompete figure in American popular culture, In fact, Buddhism played a part in clause until April 2006. The current rumor is that Desmond has been trying to entice Oprah Winfrey casts quite a long shadow. bringing Gross to O. After leaving her Bonnie Fuller, who is not known for her loyalty to employers, away from AMI. Although Smack in the middle of that shadow is post as editor in chief of Mirabella, her contract runs through June 2006, it only requires her to give 30 days notice to where Amy Gross works. which she held from 1995 to 1997, she resign. But a spokesman for Fuller said she hadn’t been approached and wasn’t In a town where top magazine editors began to study Buddhism seriously, alter- interested, anyway. — Jeff Bercovici are used to receiving movie star treat- nating freelance work with three-month ment (the good kind and the bad), Gross spiritual retreats. As she was preparing cuts a decidedly low profile. This for her third retreat, Hearst asked her to DOMINO DOMINATES: The first issue of Domino has closed with 106 ad pages, making despite her job as editor in chief of O, replace Ellen Kunes, O’s founding editor it the biggest Condé Nast launch in the last five years, according to vice president The Oprah Magazine, one of the most in chief, who departed just two months and publisher Beth Fuchs Brenner. Home advertising accounted for 30 percent of successful launches of the past decade. after the launch. pages in the new shelter shopping magazine. Another third, surprisingly, came from While new titles typically take five years Her first order of business upon tak- the fashion and beauty categories, which means Domino, on sale April 26, is looking to reach the breakeven point, O, with a ing over was to tweak the tone. “It felt to more like a direct competitor to Hearst’s Shop Etc. than previously thought. circulation of 2.15 million and average me like the first two issues were talking “We’ve really been positioning the magazine as where fashion and home newsstand sales of about 1 million, is down to the reader, and I didn’t want to intersect,” said Brenner, who disclosed that clothing items will appear on pages with already believed to be one of Hearst’s do that.” housewares to illustrate current trends. “We want to appeal to people who shop for most profitable titles. It had more ad Gross said she sees her job as essen- their home the way they shop for their clothing, mixing price points, mixing pages last year (1,590, up 10 percent from tially no different from those of her coun- designers. They’ve mastered that with their clothes, but they’re still crying out for 2003) than Marie Claire, Redbook or terparts at other Hearst titles, such as help with their homes.” Harper’s Bazaar, and it even has its own Good Housekeeping’s Ellen Levine and By comparison, precursor Lucky, which started the shopping genre, launched with spin-off, O at Home. Redbook’s Stacy Morrison. “Just as Ellen 90 ad pages. Cargo and Shop Etc. each debuted with 97 ad pages. (Condé Nast, This month, as O marks the fifth inherited a title and Stacy inherited a Domino, Lucky and Cargo are all, like WWD, part of Advance Publications Inc.) anniversary of its launch, Gross will title, I inherited a title, which happens to As for talk that Condé Nast may try to merge the Domino sales team with those of receive a Matrix Award from New York be the name of a woman,” she said. House & Garden and Architectural Digest to form a shelter group, Brenner said, Women In Communications Inc. She “We’ve all had to psych out what the “We’re talking more seriously as a group now. Chuck [Townsend, president and chief won’t be the best-known honoree in a voice is or who we’re speaking to.” executive officer of Condé Nast] is trying to unite a number of groups within the group that includes CNN’s Christiane Of course, the woman whose name Amanpour and actress Edie Falco, but happens to be the title is also the editori- company….If you stay tuned, you’ll see more of that.” — Sara James she will have the most famous presenter: al director and has final say over what Oprah, of course. goes into the magazine. Early reports had BLOWING YOUR BUDGET: For many publishing The idea of being forever upstaged Winfrey micromanaging the content of companies, tampering with a successful formula is would be a deal-breaker for many would- the first few issues, but with Gross in unthinkable. But Budget Living editor in chief Sarah be celebrity editors. Gross says she con- place, Winfrey has felt comfortable Gray Miller doesn’t agree. siders it a perk. allowing a higher degree of autonomy. “The minute it becomes rote, I become bored,” “The best part of my job is, unlike all Gross said she and Winfrey speak on the she said, discussing her decision to change the the other editors, I don’t have to go on tel- phone once a month but e-mail consider- relatively new magazine’s logo and design less than evision,” she said in an interview. “I get ably more often. Winfrey still approves a year after she picked up a National Magazine sick at the thought of being on TV. I have every page and cover line, and communi- Award for general excellence in the 250,000 to a vial of beta-blockers in my drawer just cates many of her thoughts through her 500,000 circulation category. “I think sometimes in case I ever have to do it.” close friend and envoy, Gayle King, who these things can get overthought, especially in a Typical aw-shucks posturing? Jill is at O’s offices four days a week. large company,” she said. “It’s one of the nice Seelig, who has worked alongside Gross “She has sensible instincts, which are things about being small. It’s easier for us to make for the past five years as O’s publisher, very much in line with my own,” Winfrey decisions.” said it’s genuine. said, via e-mail, of Gross. “I trust her. She The new logo, which debuts on the April/May “She is one of the most humble, most taught me everything I know about the issue, takes up less space on the cover, meaning it grounded people I’ve ever met,” she magazine business. Five years ago, I will work with a wider variety of images and allow for said. “She’s incredibly reserved, and she actually uttered the words, ‘Why do we more cover lines. Interior changes will arrive with the listens. She’s ego-less. I don’t want to use need ad pages?’ I also learned from her that word, but she’s focused on the task that you can write about things that are next issue. The magazine is set to go to a 10-times-a- at hand.” meaningful without being somber.” year frequency this fall. The abolition of ego is, of course, the “We’re very different women, but the “It’s not that much different than what we all do ultimate goal of Buddhism, a discipline piece that gives me chills I know will in our personal lives,” said Miller, who stopped short that Gross has practiced since 1997. give her chills,” Gross said. “I answer to of calling the tweaks a redesign. “You get new “Buddhism, to me, is just code for this her in the sense that I am really trying to makeup or you get a haircut or you move the body of thinking I find to be very useful,” embody what she is. I’m always trying to furniture around in your living room. And I think it’s she said, noting that Buddhist-derived stretch the envelope of what Oprah can The old and new faces of important for magazines to do the same thing.” Or at concepts such as mindfulness have contain. Like Walt Whitman, she con- Budget Living. least vacuum. — S.J. wormed their way into the vocabulary of tains multitudes.” 12/4 HOLIDAY T 10/9 DESIGN T 9/18 MEN’S FASHION T 8/28 WOMEN’S FASHION T 5/15, 9/25, 11/20 TRAVEL T 5/1,11/6 LIVING T STILL TO COME IN 2005: A new generation of luxury lifestyle magazines with the confidence and authority of The New York Times.

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05-1412-1 | Copyright © 2005 The New York Times 16 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 WWD.COM Marc Follows the Sun By Rebecca Kleinman tiered, party frocks fit for dancing atop the city’s plentiful nightclub banquettes. With 1,700 square MIAMI — It’s been go, go, go for Marc Jacobs and feet of selling space, Bal Harbour is the smallest of company. After the rose-themed extravaganza to the Collection stores, according to Duffy, who will SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY launch two stores in Los Angeles — Marc Jacobs use its narrow box shape sans historic architectur- Collection and Marc by Marc Jacobs — the design- al details as a prototype for upcoming collection er headed straight to South Florida to kick off stores in London and Paris. another Marc Jacobs store in Bal Harbour Shops Shoppers in sync with famed Miami Beach last week. architect Morris Lapidus’ mantra, “Too much is But Jacobs’ idea of a laid-back, peaceful respite never enough,” caught Duffy off guard. Originally in conjunction with an intimate dinner and soft taking the minimal approach to merchandising, opening was not to be had. such as one handbag per shelf, he soon gave up “I’m not on spring break!” said the designer, all and put everything out. bundled up in a Marc cargo jacket despite the “They kept asking for more and more and want- evening’s smothering humidity. Sipping a ed to see all the options,” he said, pointing to Diet Coke on The Raleigh’s terrace, he stacks of colorblocked cashmere cardigans seemed the antithesis of all the for $895 and rainbow rows of Blake youthful debauchery occur- and Selma leather handbags with ring in South Beach that pockets for $950 and $1,400, John Martens weekend, exacerbated by the respectively. omnipresent thumping bass Duffy reported the first cus- from the annual electronic tomer bought a crocodile bag, music conference. and the second bought a Neiman’s Martens Calls It a Day South Florida had fallen diamond bracelet. “It was off Jacobs’ radar after the so cool, like boom, By Michelle Dalton Tyree mid-Eighties when he partook boom,” he said. “There’s in Miami’s fringe art and a definite glamour here, a BEVERLY HILLS, Calif. — John Martens watched intently as artist nightlife scenes. The company’s A Marc Jacobs handbag. richness that’s not subtle,” Richard Deutsch applied the patina to a bronze sculpture being recent domestic expansion to added Jacobs. installed at the Neiman Marcus store here. nine stores — including four stores in New York, two First-day sales totaled between $40,000 and The piece, “Five Elements,’’ comprises quarter-moon shaped in Boston and one in San Francisco, with a 10th $60,000, according to Duffy, who was surprised pieces balancing each other. It seemed a fitting symbol to conclude scheduled to open in Chicago — has allowed him to handbags and shoes outsold ready-to-wear. Martens’ 25-year run as vice president and general manager, over- rediscover America after years of residing in Paris. Clothing constituted 50 percent of sales rather seeing the intricate mix of 400 employees, 180,000 square feet of “It’s strange to fly domestically, from Los Angeles to than the normal 80 percent. retail space and discerning customers. He must have been doing New York to Miami,” he said, proud not to have The Bal Harbour store also differs in that it’s something right. As Martens retired Thursday, the Beverly Hills missed one U.S. opening yet. housed inside a shopping center, a departure from Neiman Marcus was the luxury chain’s best in terms of sales. While his business partner and company presi- the company’s penchant for off-the-beaten-path “His contribution has been almost legendary,’’ Burt Tansky, dent Robert Duffy planned to hit the beach for locations. Its resistance to malls was partially eased president and chief executive officer of the Neiman Marcus Group, some much-needed rest and relaxation, Jacobs had by the familiarity with Bal Harbour Shops’ clientele said in an interview. “He’s built the business and provided a high lined up a day of visiting the Rubell, Margulies and and setting through ties with Marc Jacobs’ parent level of customer service, and exceeded expectations in what cus- de la Cruz art collections and was disappointed to company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. The tomers have come to know and expect from Neiman Marcus.’’ hear expectant artist Rachel Feinstein couldn’t company plans to continue selling accessories to During his tenure, the store has introduced designer shops, make the dinner because she wasn’t feeling well. the center’s anchors Neiman Marcus and Saks expanded the reach of smaller, specialty luxury brands such as “More than any place or decade, I’m inspired Fifth Avenue, but has pulled all clothing to present Loro Piana and Malo and made a name as a must-shop destina- lately by my friends and clients in the contemporary a complete story on its own. “Built-in traffic and tion for high-end intimate apparel and its vast collection of art scene. They are my realistic muses,” he said. doing windows in front of a crowd is still weird to designer shoes. As in Los Angeles, the company stocked the Bal me, though,” said Duffy, who had piled the entire “The ladies shoe salon to me is a real gem,” said Martens, who Harbour store with an explosion of color and storefront with colorful silk rose blossoms. handpicks shoes from designers such as Manolo Blahnik to bring home to his wife, Bridget (size seven). “I’ve always been particu- larly proud of it. “I also think we have raised our standards by eliminating the sale of bridge designers,” he said. “We’re in a very competitive market with formidable competition and well-traveled clients who fly to Paris and Milan at the drop of a hat.” Martens, a South African native, began his career with Neiman Marcus 30 years ago when merchant king Stanley Marcus poached him from his position as general manager of Stuattaford & Co., a South African department store. After a three-year stint in Texas, Martens became the vice president and general manag- er at the St. Louis store, and transferred to Beverly Hills in 1980. He still addresses customers formally as he greets them in his standard uniform of a dark suit. Donnie Smith, a Beverly Hills resident and socialite who has been both a customer and vendor at the store, described Martens as “charming, debonair and always elegant.” Martens has “taken what is a big corporate store and made it feel like it’s your neighborhood place to shop,” Smith said. “He

PHOTOS BY ROBERT SADLER CLARK ROBERT PHOTOS BY is a real gentleman and sets the standard for everyone.” And he takes matters such as housekeeping seriously. “I like a beautifully presented, clean store,” said Martens. But it’s the the interaction with the staff, which begins as he starts his morning tour through the kitchen, and customers that he said he will miss most. “I’m what you call a floor person…because the floor is where our business is done,” Martens said. Despite his formality, Martens, who is being replaced by Kelly Cole, has an affinity for denim, something that would likely sur- prise customers. Although Martens admits that at his age — ever discreet, he won’t reveal it — he can’t get away with wearing denim in quite the way the younger set does. Earlier this week, the staff surprised Martens by toasting him with a bottle of Cristal and leading him to new window displays facing Wilshire Boulevard that are dedicated to him. They feature a poster-size black-and-white photo of Martens along with crisp, black-and-white fashions from designers such as Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, Jean Paul Gaultier and others Martens has been instrumental in bringing to the store. So, could there be a book in Martens’ future? “It’s a possibility after I thaw out a bit,’’ he said. “Although I have a few stories that people would definitely not like if I told.” Marc Jacobs opened his ninth store in the Bal Harbour Shops in Florida. WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 17 WWD.COM Partnerships Forming to Chase Neiman’s

Continued from page one In regard to the flurry of activity in the fashion and Advisors and Leonard Green & Partners, and Texas retail sector, a financial source skeptically remarked, “I Pacific Group working with an unnamed strategic partner. have great doubts that many of these firms are truly for Calls to Thomas H. Lee, Blackstone, KKR, Bain, sale, or would command a premium multiple. Because Apollo and Leonard Green for comment were either not everything seems to be for sale, you have many people returned or officials said that the firm’s policy is not to in the investment banking business trying to create op- provide comment. portunities. For Brad Martin, chairman of Saks Inc., the Bids for Neiman Marcus are expected to be submit- prize possession is Saks Fifth Avenue, and I doubt he ted within the next two to three weeks. would be happy to part with it.” Meanwhile, there’s a growing possibility that Saks Several of the firms interested in Neiman’s — such Fifth Avenue is being eyed as an acquisition target by a as KKR, Bain and Apollo — also have been mentioned consortium of private equity firms. This follows a report as possible suitors for Saks Fifth Avenue. KKR and Bain in WWD that the Saks Department Store Group is being teamed up last month, along with Vornado Realty Trust, put on the auction block. to purchase Toys ‘R’ Us Inc. for $6.6 billion. Cerberus Merrill Lynch analyst Kevin Boler issued a research teamed up with Sun Capital Partners Inc. and Lubert- note saying Saks Inc. — including Saks Fifth Avenue Adler/Klaff Partners to buy Mervyn’s from Target Corp. and the department store group — could carry a price in July for $1.2 billion. tag of $3.5 billion to $4.5 billion. “However, we feel that One private equity executive observed, “The pur- the company would rather sell the department stores chase prices are getting bigger, and while there’s lots of separately and run Saks Fifth Avenue as a stand-alone talk about major firms raising $10 billion for a fund, no company,” Boler added. one in their right mind is going to put more than 10 per- There are also ongoing murmurs that equity players cent in any single investment. If things go wrong, it will are teaming up for a leveraged buyout of J.C. Penney, al- blow up the entire fund.” though executives at Penney say the company is not for But there is enormous pressure to invest the fund’s sale [see related story on page 2]. money. And while there’s talk about a paucity of quality Private equity players teaming up to scout and then The Neiman Marcus flagship. opportunities in the market, there’s also the sense that acquire target companies is a bit of a departure from everything is on the auction block. prior years when these types of firms tended to make maker, to help finance Lenovo’s purchase of IBM’s PC The private equity executive said Sarbanes-Oxley, acquisitions on their own. division. Also this week it was announced that TPG was the 2002 Congressional act of accounting and disclosure One financial source said while the private equity part of the big consortium, including Bain Capital, regulations, is fueling part of the so-called “for sale” firms are constantly looking for possible opportunities, Blackstone Group and KKR, that agreed to take over signs popping up. “We see a trend that many public he doubts many get to the more extensive, due diligence SunGard Data Systems. companies want to go private. Sarbanes-Oxley is a round — the exception being the firms involved with Texas Pacific has offices in San Francisco, London nightmare for many firms because of [Wall Street’s] Neiman Marcus. and Fort Worth, Tex., and manages more than $13 billion focus on the short term. By going private, companies One of those financial players, The Texas Pacific in assets in a variety of industries including retail, can concentrate on a long-term strategy.” Group, is said to be showing increasing interest in health care, technology, consumer products and airlines. Of course, getting snapped up by a financial investor Neiman’s. “We have absolutely no comment,” said a Neiman’s would be a different kind of investment for usually means a new owner within a three- to seven- spokesman for TPG. TPG, considering it has frequently taken over distressed year time frame, and for many private equity firms that However, a source close to TPG said Thursday, companies with the intention of turning them around means an exit strategy, which entails taking the invest- “Several groups are interested. You can throw Texas and years later selling them. The firm’s investment port- ment public. Pacific into the mix. It’s advanced to a stage where they folio includes: J. Crew Group, the Bally luxury brand, While fashion and retail initial public offerings have are in the mix.” Seagate Technology, Burger King, Ducati, Petco and had mixed success rates, they can sometimes be suc- As reported by WWD on Monday, due to its high Continental and America West airlines. cessful, particularly if the company’s operations can be share price, Neiman’s is expected to command around As far as TPG’s criteria for investments, “They invest improved. Two recent IPOs in fashion retail that have $5 billion. Texas Pacific could easily be included in a in all kinds of industries, but it’s got to make economic done well are Aeropostale and New York & Co., both consortium of buyers. Just this week, TPG said it was sense and there has to be a feeling TPG could add value. brought to market by Bear Stearns Merchant Banking. part of a partnership, including General Atlantic, that Size is not necessarily a criteria, but they do tend to do — With contributions was buying into Lenovo Group, a Chinese computer larger deals. The company is flexible with the capital.” from David Moin

thing they didn’t make.” Gunn also noted that students had to employ both a women’s and men’s sensibility to Phat Farm Remixed their collections, something his students are not regu- larly required to do. The three finalists presented their collections to NEW YORK — Russell Simmons got some help from Simmons, who deliberated for a few moments before

Parsons School of Design students with his latest remix shouting, “I got it!” to signify he’d selected Statham as HEITNER MARTY PHOTO BY Thursday. the winner. Simmons, founder of the Phat Farm clothing line, “I kept it urban, but made it sleek,” Statham said of and Kimora Lee Simmons, founder of Baby Phat cloth- his collection that featured a graffiti-inspired shorts set ing, participated in The Style Remix contest in con- for men and supershort denim shorts for women, which junction with Parsons. Students were asked to take pre- prompted Simmons to say, “You’ll get arrested in those.” existing collections of Phat Farm and Baby Phat and Statham, 21, won $2,000 for the best women’s wear restyle them. Each student created six looks —three for and men’s wear collections, which will be featured in the women’s collection and three for the men’s. the Phat Farm Store in SoHo here. Simmons visited Parsons to select the winner, “These kids aren’t restricted by the marketplace, so Christopher Statham, from three finalists: Arthur it wasn’t stale,” Simmons said while Statham posed for Pogosian, Lok Lam “Lum” Yeung and Statham. photographers with an oversized check for his win- “We wanted to see how our students would reinvent nings. “We judged them on what feels good. There are a and remix these collections,” said Timothy Gunn, lot of subtle details here that I could do a whole collec- chairman of the fashion design department at Parsons. tion off of.” Lok Lam “Lum” Yeung, Russell Simmons, “The challenge for the students was starting with some- —Lauren DeCarlo Christopher Statham and Arthur Pogosian.

tools and technical skills to make this a multimillion-dollar Chabot worked in Ralph Lauren’s European press office. business,” while Santana said the Versace venture “is an Fashion Scoops opportunity to build a luxury segment in the group.” Though he DRINKING IT IN: Lulu Guinness and her chic and cheeky handbags said Timex would concentrate on its collaboration with Versace attract a more diverse crowd than one would think. At ON TIME: Versace and Timex unveiled the first fruits of their for the moment, he said the company was interested in pursuing Wednesday’s party honoring her exhibition of collectible handbags nascent collaboration at the Basel Watch Fair on Thursday, other upmarket collaborations. Timex and Versace in January at Sotheby’s were the usual industry folk, plus a few teenagers, saying they expect to have sales of 15 million Swiss francs, or cemented a 17-year licensing agreement. Meanwhile, at a former Texas Gov. Ann Richards, some Brits from London, model cocktail party later, Donatella Versace wore a white ceramic $17.9 million, this year. At a news conference, Timex president Anouck Lepere and even downtown designers Alice Roi and diamond-encrusted watch. “It’s a masculine style watch for Joe Santana and Santo Versace said they would double sales in Behnaz Sarafpour (both friends and fans of Guinness’). During the 2006 and generate at least 40 million Swiss francs, or $47.8 strong women,” she said. live auction that benefited the Children Affected by AIDS million, in sales by 2007. The duo also revealed the collaboration’s name — Vertime — and said 75 percent of sales NEW SHOES: Alix de Chabot, managing director of Calvin Klein Foundation, one perfume and two bags raised roughly $1,000 this year would come from watches, with jewelry contributing 20 Europe, is headed to fast-growing Roger Vivier, the footwear each and a one-of-a-kind Going, Going, Gone bag brought in percent and lighting instruments kicking in 5 percent. They said firm owned by Diego Della Valle, WWD has learned. De Chabot $2,000. Guinness herself, wearing red in contrast to the black- Paolo Marani would start as president of the Manno, Switzerland- is slated to join Vivier as a senior consultant for strategy and and-white dress code, was surprised and pleased with the based operation on Monday. Versace said Timex “brings us the public relations in France. Before joining Klein in 1997, de turnout. “It’s extremely overwhelming,” she said. 18 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 WWD.COM Tod’s Net Up 18.9% in ’04 Pam Planning Apparel, Fragrance? By Amanda Kaiser By Julie Naughton Herald Square from noon to 1 p.m., she will head to the New York Stock Exchange to ring the clos- MILAN — Tod’s saw its 2004 profits and sales grow as it bolstered NEW YORK — Pamela Anderson has big plans for ing bell on behalf of the MAC AIDS Fund. its distribution network and kept costs in line. herself — and they don’t involve her bustline. “I think the guys on Wall Street are more excited Net profit for the 12 months ended Dec. 31 grew 18.9 percent to After a news conference Thursday announcing about this than about the latest oil deposits found in 30.6 million euros, or $37.9 million. Revenue for the period ad- her involvement with the MAC AIDS Fund, the ac- the North Sea,” said John Demsey, MAC’s president. vanced 12.9 percent to 425.4 million euros, or $527.5 million, but tress, model, novelist and for- Anderson also will appear the company said it would have risen 15.1 percent at constant-cur- mer Jane magazine columnist in mid-April at Selfridges in Pamela rency rates. Dollar figures are at the average exchange rate. revealed that she might add a London on behalf of the MAC Anderson “The full-year 2004 showed the return to growth of operating women’s apparel line and pos- AIDS Fund, around the time margins and net income, in line with the group’s plans and strat- sibly a fragrance to her licensed that her Fox-TV show, egy,” Diego Della Valle, Tod’s chairman and chief executive offi- products, which include lin- “Stacked,” begins to air. The cer, said in a statement. gerie, accessories and jeans. program, which also stars

He said that, based on sales figures for the first months of this Clad in a pale gray Gucci PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN Christopher Lloyd, premieres year, he forecasts full-year 2005 growth “in line” with that of 2004 blouse, unbuttoned to show off on April 13. MAC is providing and a “further improvement” in profitability. a flesh-toned La Perla bra, the makeup, Anderson point- Tod’s opened 11 stores in 2004, including the Omotesando flag- and pale gray Stella McCart- ed out. “Free stuff is great!” ship in Tokyo. Those shops brought the directly operated store ney linen pants — not to men- she said. count to 106 as of Dec. 31 and helped boost full-year revenue. tion a towering pair of Fendi The MAC AIDS Fund, which Still, older stores posted double-digit growth rates. Tod’s said stilettos — Anderson told has raised almost $45 million that sales accelerated 10.9 percent on a same-store basis for di- WWD that she likes to juggle since it started 11 years ago, rectly operated stores. The company said that same-store sales in multiple projects. generated $12 million alone the first 12 weeks of this year are up 13 percent. “I always have to be in- last year, said Demsey, a goal Earnings before interest and taxes advanced 23.7 percent to volved in a million things at he hopes to meet or beat this 54.1 million euros, or $67.1 million. once,” she said, laughing. An- year. Anderson is the latest ad- On a geographical basis, a strong euro-to-dollar exchange rate derson kept mum on details dition to a quintet of celebri- bit into North American sales, which dropped 5.6 percent to 50.1 surrounding additional licens- ties who represent the fund; million euros, or $62.1 million. Tod’s said that sales there would es, saying that she is dis- the others, named last year, have grown 4 percent at constant rates. cussing with “several compa- are Chloë Sevigny, Christina Sales in Italy, Tod’s largest market, grew 12.7 percent to 204.5 nies” the possibility of doing a Aguilera, Missy Elliott and million euros, or $253.6 million, while those in the rest of Europe women’s apparel line. She also Linda Evangelista. advanced 11.5 percent to 116.7 million euros, or $144.7 million. has been approached to do a Unlike the other four women Revenue from Asia and the rest of the world grew 53.9 percent celebrity fragrance, though involved, however, Anderson is to 49.5 million euros, or $61.4 million. Tod’s said it is seeing ex- she wouldn’t name names. topless (with the MAC logo in cellent growth in Asia, where sales would have increased 60 per- “I don’t necessarily want to bronze crystals on her back) in cent at constant exchange rates. slap my name on something one of her two ad visuals. Turning to product categories, shoe sales advanced 12.7 percent that’s going to stink up the “How is it that I always end to 268.2 million euros, or $332.6 million, while revenue from leather place,” Anderson added, saying that she’s not a up naked?” she asked rhetorically during the news goods and accessories increased 21.1 percent to 84.7 million euros, huge fragrance wearer herself. conference. or $105 million. Sales from apparel, a much smaller category for “I think if I did something, it would be more That’s the R-rated version, Demsey said. There the firm, rose 6.2 percent to 67.2 million euros, or $83.3 million. aromatherapy-related — and also something that I is a PG version in which Anderson is wearing a The Tod’s name generates more than half of the company’s don’t have to worry will be tested on animals.” shirt, albeit a scrap of one. consolidated sales. Sales from that brand grew 12.2 percent to Anderson has a full slate for today. After mak- Later, Anderson came up with the naked truth 239.9 million euros, or $297.5 million, while those from Hogan ing an appearance at MAC’s counter at Macy’s herself: “I’m an exhibitionist,” she said wryly. rose 18 percent to 102.3 million euros, or $126.9 million. Fay rev- enue increased 5.9 percent to 68.7 million euros, or $85.2 million. Mizrahi’s Target: A ‘Supermodelhero’ EU Prepared to Impose By Marc Karimzadeh “She has such an incredible quality and a real ability when it comes to acting.” NEW YORK — For Isaac Mizrahi, it’s no longer The films feature spring looks from Mizrahi’s Import Sanction on U.S. enough for a modern-day supermodel to just strut collection for Target. According to the designer, and strike a pose. She also must be able to maneu- browsers can click on a look and then will be By John Zarocostas The list includes cotton sweaters, ver herself through high-speed chases in stiletto guided to the place on the site where they can women’s and girls’ cotton shirts, heels, fly through the Manhattan sky and protect purchase the item. “It’s the sophisticated technol- GENEVA — The European Union cotton dresses and jeans. the world from all things evil. ogy every heroine understands moved on Thursday to slap $28 A spokesman for the U.S. Today, Target is launching except for me,” he quipped. million in import sanctions on Trade Representative said in a the first of four installments of The first film, “Dream,” will U.S. products, charging that statement, “We’re disappointed “Supermodelhero” on its Web launch today. The three-minute Washington has dragged its feet that this step is being taken. The site. Mizrahi wrote and directed feature shows Haqueensha as a in repealing a law that the World U.S is working to comply with the online video streams, which young girl, praying to “fit in” as Trade Organization found to be the WTO decision regarding the feature the trials and tribula- she falls asleep. She dreams in violation of global commerce Byrd Amendment.” tions of Haqueensha, a super- PHOTO BY JAMIE MCCARTHY about life as a supermodel, strut- rules more than a year ago. The Bush administration on model-cum-action heroine who ting her wares on an all-white cat- The law, known as the Byrd March 3 introduced legislation had been abandoned by her par- walk and posing at a photo shoot Amendment, compensates U.S. in the House to repeal the Byrd ents as a child and grew up with in a navy and white floral-print companies that are hurt when Amendment, Deputy U.S. Trade her grandmother. coat, a bright green top or a short foreign firms sell goods into the Representative Linnet Deily The idea sprung up when Miz- orange jacket. When a friend is U.S. market at below cost or less told WTO delegates last week. rahi and the Target team were threatened by a group of black- than their price in the home The U.S. legislation was working on a new hook for the clad thugs, she escapes with him country, a practice known as found in breach by a WTO panel dumping. The law calls on the in September 2002, a ruling up- U.S. to collect antidumping du- held by the higher WTO appel- We talked about making a behind-the-scenes look at ties and pay the money collected late body in January 2003. Last “ to the affected U.S. companies. November, a WTO arbitration the collection, but I got bored with that thought. While the WTO allows import- panel gave the EU and seven —” Isaac Mizrahi ing countries to impose punitive other countries the go-ahead to tariffs on dumped goods, it ruled slap retaliatory punitive tariffs pages devoted to the designer on the Web site. to the roof and flies off with him into the sky. the U.S. cannot pay the money it on the U.S. “We talked about making a behind-the-scenes Landing on a distant roof-top, she takes out her collects through those tariffs di- Between 2001 and 2003, the look at the collection, but I got bored with that compact, then looks at herself, asking, “Am I shiny?” rectly to injured firms. U.S. collected about $728 mil- thought,” Mizrahi said. “I had started writing the Mizrahi remained tight-lipped about the con- Several apparel categories lion in duties under the provi- Webisodes about a girl who discovers her super- tent of future Webisodes, other than to say that would be affected by the 15 per- sion, which was then paid out to powers through coming of age as a supermodel.” “Hair,” “Shoes” and “Transformation” will launch cent tariffs beginning May 1, in- U.S. companies. Mizrahi enlisted Christine Vachon, who pro- on the site in the next two weeks. He added that he cluding most classes of man- Apparel classifications ac- duced movies such as “Boys Don’t Cry,” “Hap- intends to turn “Supermodelhero” into a feature made fiber or cotton pants and count for 10 of the 18 products fac- piness” and “Far From Heaven,” and the duo movie. “Anybody who knows me knows how much shorts. The EU also published a ing the punitive duties, with some worked on the four short films starring budding I love films,” he said. “It’s the karma of my life. I reserve list of additional cate- paper, agricultural and machin- model Yaya Da Costa, a runner-up in “America’s feel like I am an idiot cinematographer. I don’t gories on which it might impose ery products also getting a hit. Next Top Model.” know how to operate a camera, but give me a cine- additional duties if the amend- —With contributions from “I preferred her to the winner,” Mizrahi said. matographer and I turn into Renoir.” ment is not repealed by Congress. Kristi Ellis, Washington WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 1, 2005 19

Men’s Apparel Buyer

Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. We are currently seeking candidates for the position of Men’s 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views Clothing and Apparel Buyer. Reporting to the Divisional Merchandise SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT DKNY Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Manager, this individual will be responsible for all aspects of category management and purchasing relating to the Men’s Sales Executive categories. Category mix consists of basic, promotional, and Major outerwear manufac- seasonal items. turer offering an excellent sales opportunity for dynamic The ideal candidate must possess the following: individuals with min. 2-3 7th Avenue - Prime Chelsea •Minimum of 5 years buying experience in a retail multi-store years experience. Great 2,750 sf ground floor + partial bsmt environment. working atmosphere and Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 •Ability to travel. opportunity for growth. www.dumann.com Fax resume: 212.768.0140 For Space in Garment Center E-mail resumes and salary history: Helmsley-Spear, Inc. [email protected] 212-880-0414 WWW.FARMANDFLEET.COM Accessories/Bath/Cosmetics Looking for sales person with strong An Equal Opportunity Employer Tobacco / Drug - Free Environment following. Good opportunity. No phone or agency calls, please Email resumes to: [email protected] Account Executive Designer Richard Leeds International TRIBECA PRIME Assistant Embroidery Leading intimate apparel co looking for 15,000 sq ft. ground and upper floors. Designer acct exec based in NY. Must have 3-5 yrs Hot Fashion Showrooms of all sizes of understanding midtier & mass accts. Fast paced sportswear and dress company Excellent analytical skills; team player on Greenwich St. Gorgeous Celebrity seeks embroidery designer with min 2 Landmark Building (212) 966-9939 working w/ merchandising on product yrs exp in imports. Should be able to develop. Proficient in Excel or Lotus. prepare product packs for Asia and follow Buying exp a plus. Competitive benefits up on all design details. Must have ex- pkg. Submit resume: fax 212-696-8450 cellent sketching skills. or email: [email protected] E-Commerce Manager Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318. Famous Historical Restaurant Jamaica, Queens, for lease-approx seeks E-commerce Manager DESIGNER 40,000 sq. ft. fully equipped garment with 3-5 years minimum Established Sportwear Co. is developing warehouse with racking system, a/c offices experience. We offer a unique designer collection. Great op- & loading docks. Available immediately. portunity for a designer with a CON- CHILDREN’S APPAREL Call landlord 516-997-2442 competitive salary and benefits package. TEMPORARY or DESIGNER background. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Must have exp. working in a sample room. SHOWROOM LOCATION If interested fax resume: Fax resume to Joyse: 212-302-3318 Weare seeking a motivated children’s to (212) 877-7869 Fashion Designer Level 1 wanted by apparel Account Executive for our midtown Sportswear Manufacturing (Preteen) showroom location. This candidate company in NYC. Must have BA in any will be responsible for developing and maintaining new and existing sales ADMINISTRATIVE ASST field plus 2 years of exp. as Fashion De- signer. Must read, write & speak Korean. accounts. This individual should have Kearny, NJ Spts. Mfr. seeks a bright aminimum of 2 years of showroom individual w/ min 5 yrs exp in the Apply to: Cherry Stix, Ltd., 1407 Broad- way #1503, New York, NY 10018 sales experience. This individual garment industry working w/ major should be professional, organized, retail chains. Complete knowledge in detail-oriented, and able to multi-task tracking orders, preparing pick tick- Graphic Designer across a wide spectrum of duties. Candidates MGL Associates, LLC ets, bills of lading, as well as perform- MGL Associates offers outsourced back IS NEEDED must have excellent written, verbal, ing all necessary EDI tasks a must. E-MAIL: [email protected] and telephone communication skills. office management including Customer Extensive correspondence with show- Service, Inventory Planning & Control, FAX: 212-564-5830 Excellent salary & benefits. room. Competitive salary & benefits. Please email your resume to: Accounts Receivable/Cash, Accounting. Email resume to: [email protected] With MGL backoffice in place, clients can Marker Maker [email protected] or fax to: focus on business growth & development. 212-643-2826. Please no telephone Leading Dress Mfr. seeks person with calls. EOE E-mail all inquiries to: ADMIN SINCE 1967 knowledge of Lectra Digitized System. [email protected] W-I-N-S-T-O-N High volume. Fax resume/salary reqs: 646-366-0626 GREAT OPPORTUNITY Patterns / Samples APPAREL STAFFING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Any Style, Perfect Fit DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Merchandiser Assistant Young, aggressive women’s apparel ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION company that specializes in European Good Quality - Fast Service Updated sportswear & dress manufacturer Call (212) 398-7700 or (917) 520-5377 (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 designed knit sweaters, novelty tees seeks entry level asst. Must be able to and denim has an exciting opportunity multi-task, be highly organized, and available in our New York showroom. hard worker. Must be proficient in Excel, Weare looking for an aggressive Account Work, Photoshop, and Illustrator. Will Executive with 3-5 years experience with prepare production packages, line sheets, contacts in major and specialty stores. and pricing. Salary, incentives and/or commission Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318 based on experience and sales volume. Retail Please fax resume, Attn: Ronen (954) 965-4443 or SOHO STORE MANAGER Email: [email protected] Premium SoHo boutique seeks exp’d. Manager. Must possess communication ASSISTANT OUTWEAR DESIGNER &organization skills, and be able to work Branded Junior manufacturer seeking in a busy environment. Compensation Assistant Designer. Candidate must be well above industry standard for right New Europenian (Danish) Co. in the Better organized, detailed, strong communica- candidate. Fax resume to: 212-965-9494 Womens Sportswear Fashion Apparel tion skill with overseas factories and industry is seeking represantation in the ability to do complete design tech packs. US Market (New York and Boston area Excel, Illustrator & Photoshop a must. plus California). 5 years of experience Sales Legwear req’d. in the better Womens Speciality Please send resume attn: Jacquie at Est. Legwear co seeks a sales professio- Fax: (212) 473-4281 Store market. Please E-mail resume only Group Show Director nal to sell our branded & private label to: [email protected] Lines to active & new accounts Con- Leading tradeshow mgmt. tacts with majors a plus. company seeks: Group E-mail resume to: [email protected] Sales Reps & Designer CAD Artist/Junior Dynamic & Growing Co. seeking strong Show Director for our Experienced CAD person wanted for Sales Reps, who is always on top of his/her high-volume showroom. Must have Couture Jewellery Collection game, to promote sales and represent MAC05-9 Illustrator V.9, Photoshop V.6 SAMPLE SEWER high-end women’s apparel brand. Min. 5 and Conference Group in and color matters systems experience. Selia Yang Inc. seeks highly skilled years experience in sales. Major Fax resume to: Jackie 212-768-7856 sewer w/ exp. in fittings for custom Dept./Specialty Store contacts a must. A NYC. Req’s: Financial and made. Call 212-941-9076 or 941-9073. dynamic compensation package is offered budget mgmt., 10+ years to that unique individual. Also freelance women’s apparel designer wanted. E-mail in either luxury tradeshow Customer Relation Spec Tech resume: [email protected] industry or specific luxury Senior Spec Tech or jewelry product markets, Returns Reps Great opportunity! Great company! Seeking an exp’d individual w/extensive B.S./B.A. MBA a plus, 5+ yrs. knowledge of processing returns and Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks credits, effectively deals with customers experienced & highly organized Spec mgmt. exp. Extensive and resolving issues, call center experi- Tech for Ladies, Mens & Kids product. sales and mktg. exp. ence w/inbound/outbound calls, 2+ years Resp incl.: Daily communication with of relevant experience. Please E-mail overseas office & factories. Conducts EMAIL: resume to: [email protected] fittings with the ability to translate changes necessary to specifications. [email protected] Must possess strong technical knowl- REF: WWD - GSD edge, flat sketching and be computer literate. Strong follow-up and analytical www.vnuexpo.com Design Assistant skills along with Bra experience is man- Established children’s wear firm seeks datory. Knowledge of Spec/Design Independent Sales Rep awellorganized and highly motivated packages helpful. Experience with An upscale apparel company seeks team player. Resp. include: production Walmart, JCP & Regionals a plus. motivated, aggressive and independent packages, sample requests, design de- Please fax your resume to: B Farrell Sales Rep with industry exp and proven tails. Must be proficient in Illustrator. (212) 842-4032. EOE. record to launch new high–end woman Fax salary and resume to fashion. Commission only. Please send 212-594-2604 Attn: HR Dept SARAMAX resume to [email protected] WWDBEAUTYBIZ

PHOTOS BY BRUNO GAGET, STEPHEN SULLIVAN AND GEORGE CHINSEE June Issue

It only takes one issue to ensure mass reach for your brand. Advertise in the issue that will Save reach mass retailers at NACDS Marketplace the and uncover the major factors that will shape Date the beauty business over the next five years.

Issue Date: Special feature: A first look at the second June 3 half’s most significant launches. A Closer Look: Hair care and styling Close: The It List: Television producers May 2 Bonus distribution: NACDS Marketplace and ECRM Cosmetic, Fragrance and Beauty

For information on advertising, contact Sarah Murphy, publisher beauty & marketing WWDMediaWorldwide, at 212-630-4656.