Lace Winner NEW YORK — Lace Has a Strong Presence in Spring Fashion, So It’S No Surprise That It’S Bigger Than Ever in Lingerie, Too

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MCQUEEN GROWS BRAND/2 JACOB THE JEWELER’S NEW PLAN/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • November 7, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Lace Winner NEW YORK — Lace has a strong presence in spring fashion, so it’s no surprise that it’s bigger than ever in lingerie, too. Here, Elle Macpherson’s silk and spandex cami, briefs and bra with cotton lace. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Y/JUMP; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN Y/JUMP; STYLED BY

PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY LUCK Riding High: Polo Ralph Lauren Profits, Sales Jump in Quarter By Vicki M. Young company’s profits leapt 31.5 percent percent during the second quarter,

; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREAL ; HAIR BY NEW YORK — Polo Ralph Lauren on total sales that increased 14.7 easily beating analysts’ estimates. keeps galloping along, and Wall Roger Farah, president and chief Street likes what it sees. Seventh Avenue’s Agenda operating officer, said the company Propelled by higher sales in its For NYC Mayor/Pages 26-27 isn’t resting on its laurels. wholesale and retail businesses, the See Polo, Page 20 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: ROBI/NEXT MITRA; ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Alexander McQueen Sets New RTW Line By Samantha Conti Later this week, McCartney WWDMONDAY will unveil a limited-edition Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear LONDON — Alexander McQueen capsule collection for H&M. She is building his brand at break- also has a successful perform- FASHION neck speed. ance sportswear line for Adidas. Ruffles and lace, both seen in the New York and European collections, are The designer, who in The new McQueen line will 6 adding charm to spring’s lingerie selection. September unveiled a footwear hit 600 shop floors worldwide in line for Puma, will launch a sec- June. A McQueen spokesman ond ready-to-wear collection said the stores that will carry the GENERAL called McQ – Alexander McQueen line will include Neiman Marcus Polo Ralph Lauren’s profits leapt 31.5 percent on total sales that galloped for fall 2006. and Harvey Nichols, but not the 1 14.7 percent during its second quarter, easily beating analyst estimates. The denim-based collection McQueen flagships in New York, Alexander McQueen, who in September unveiled a footwear line for Puma, will be for men and women and Milan and London. Prices will will launch a second rtw line called McQ-Alexander McQueen next fall. will include accessories, range from 495 pounds, or $870, 2 McQueen said in a statement late for selected knitwear items to 60 ACCESSORIES: Jacob Arabo, also known as “Jacob the Jeweler,” is Friday. It will be produced by the pounds, or $105, for a T-shirt. 10 making some changes at his diamond jewelry firm revered by celebrities. Italian company SINV Spa. The collection will include INNERWEAR: Problems such as the aftermath of hurricanes and high gas “The focus of this collection denim jeans, jackets, trenches 14 prices are among the challenges facing retailers and vendors. will be younger and more rene- and miniskirts with special treat- Still absorbing the shock of the hurricane season, U.S. employers boosted gade, but always signature ments and washes. It will also in- payrolls by only 56,000 in October, nearly half of what economists expected. McQueen,” the designer said in clude knitwear, T-shirts, woolen 22 the statement. “This partnership coats and trousers made from The House and Senate passed budget packages that would eliminate a will add a new and inspiring di- washed and overdyed cottons. 22 cotton subsidy program ruled illegal by the World Trade Organization. mension to the McQueen world.” The line will be produced Whether Mayor Michael Bloomberg or challenger Fernando Ferrer wins The new rtw line comes hot on and distributed under a five- Tuesday, he will face issues of vital interest to the fashion industry. the rubber heels of McQueen’s year licensing agreement with 26 new collaboration with Puma. SINV, which also makes See by The Alexander McQueen Puma Chloé, DKNY Jeans, Krizia EYE line will launch in 200 to 250 Jeans and Moschino Jeans. They came, they saw, they conquered. Plenty of stars turned out to fete the stores worldwide in January, in- Turnover at that company is 136 4 80th anniversary of the opening of the Fendi house. cluding McQueen’s flagships in million euros, or $161 million at London, New York and Milan. current exchange. Classified Advertisements ...... 29-31 McQueen parent Gucci Group “This new license integrates To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is has strongly encouraged its small- perfectly with the SINV portfo- [email protected], using the individual’s name. er brands to build their business- lio and boosts our presence in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 es by striking deals with outside the high-quality prêt-à-porter FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. companies. Gucci wants the industry,” said Massimo Braglia, VOLUME 190, NO. 99. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one brands, which also include Stella chief executive of SINV. Both additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. McCartney and Balenciaga, to be A spring look from Alexander companies declined to provide PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. profitable by 2007. McQueen. first-year sales projections. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Private Label Handbags Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. 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MONDAY: Accessories and Intimate Apparel Market Week, New York (through Friday).

TUESDAY: Fossil Inc. reports third-quarter sales and earnings.

WEDNESDAY: Cosmoprof Asia, Hong Kong (through Friday).

THURSDAY: The Commerce Department releases the September foreign trade report. Kohl’s Corp. and Pacific Sunwear report third-quarter sales and earnings. COMING THIS WEEK

Clarification Lance Accord was director of photography/cinematographer for the films “Lost in Translation’’ and the upcoming “Marie Antoinette,’’ both directed by Sofia Coppola. This was unclear in a story on page 4 on Friday. Corrections Steve Stoute was incorrectly identified on Friday, page 12, as an executive with Interscope Records, his former employer. Stoute is now chief creative officer for Translation, a marketing and branding consultancy. ● ● ● MAGIC International will be held Feb. 21-24 at the Las Vegas Convention Center. The dates were incorrect in a page 2 story on Oct. 28. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 3 WWD.COM Cookie Goes to Press Model’s Profile in Courage NEW YORK — In the late Nineties, a handful of NEW YORK — Petra Nemcova is not PetraPetra maternity designers revolutionized an industry by just another pretty face — and that’s Nemcova making fashionable, even sexy, clothes for moms- precisely why Rampage has hired her to-be who didn’t want to shed their style simply to star in its spring ad campaign. because of their change in status. While Nemcova has appeared in Until now, though, those stylish moms had little Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and reading matter targeted specifically to them. Sports Illustrated’s swimsuit issue, Enter Cookie, a new magazine hitting news- she is widely known for her harrowing stands Nov. 15, aimed at the sophisticated mother tale of surviving last year’s tsunami. who doesn’t want to give up her Christian She and her boyfriend, fashion pho- Louboutin sandals and exotic vacations because tographer Simon Atlee, were on holi- she has a kid — or even two or three. day in Thailand when the tsunami hit “It’s permission for moms to retain their Southeast Asia, killing more than lifestyle and sense of adventure,” said Pilar The cover of Cookie and four pages from its inaugural issue. 280,000 people. Atlee died, but Nem- Guzman, the magazine’s editor in chief, who has a cova, with a broken pelvis, clung to the

two-year-old son named Henry. ing feature for a first birthday party, and health sto- top of a palm tree for eight hours. JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Covering travel, health, fashion, beauty, food and ries debunking myths about colds and breast-feeding. Watching Nemcova, 26, pose for a photographer in the home, Cookie, according to its creators, is an entirely “I just think people get overly cautious, overly Rampage showroom Friday, the tragedy seemed far away. new take on a category filled with broad, seven-figure precious, overly anxious with their kids. And I Dressed in a Rampage camisole, jacket and jeans, she greeted circulation books like Parenting, Parents and Child. think that ends up having a negative effect, even in two strangers with a triple kiss, as is customary in her native “Those magazines do a great job, but a particular utero,” said Guzman, who described Czech Republic. She was eager to chat. reader was underserved in this market,” said the voice of the magazine as “your Aside from fronting a brand that makes “amazing clothes for Guzman. “The people who read Condé most well-informed friend, who is young women who are about her age” — 16 to 26 — what won her Nast books, where do they go also the least judgmental.” over was Rampage’s parent company, Iconix Brand Fashion for their parenting needs?” Cookie launches with an initial Group’s $25,000 donation to her Happy Hearts Foundation Indeed. Incubated with- rate base of 300,000 and plans to through the new Rampage Relief Fund. in Condé Nast Publications’ publish six times in 2006. “Today it’s Asia and [hurricane victims] in the States that Fairchild division, Cookie, a While its ad page count in the need help,’’ she said. “Tomorrow it could be me in New York sister publication to WWD, debut (92.5) isn’t quite as robust as City. You never know.” has been described by some the two most recent Condé Nast Asked if brands should stand for something beyond their who’ve seen it as “Vogue for launches — Men’s Vogue’s first bottom lines, Nemcova said, “Whether it’s a company or each mommies.” The photography issue had 164 pages and human being, it should not always be about me, myself and I,’’ is lush, the layouts modern and Domino had 106 — Cookie’s she said. “There is this disconnection we have for one another clean. In fact, the only design publisher, Eva Dillon, said it that causes a lot of problems. We need more of a sense of unity.” cue that suggests kids is the was unfair to make that com- Next month Gilles Bensimon will photograph Nemcova in rainbow-colored, bubble-let- parison, considering the new the Florida Keys for Rampage’s $1 million print, outdoor and tered logo on the cover. ground Cookie had to break Internet campaign for spring. She will also be featured in pub- “It’s a nice foil for the rest of the and the fact that it was a lic service announcements for the Rampage Relief Fund. look of the magazine,” Guzman fourth-quarter launch. “We started looking at a lot of personalities and celebrities,’’ explained. (Many potential advertisers said Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive officer of Iconix. A digest section in the front of the didn’t include it in their “Petra kind of rose to the top. She is this amazing woman with book, “Smart Cookie,” opens with a budgets since pages didn’t this incredible story.” short piece on a woman fitting that begin selling until April.) Asked what has been most challenging about this past year, description. (In the launch issue, it’s “In a magazine that is completely new to a Nemcova said it “has been one of many changes and deep per- Lucy Sykes.) A story on the modern category, 92 pages is a smash hit, frankly,” Dillon said. sonal growth. From trying to accept things to going through the mommy tote — “Wonder Bags” — shows day and night The first issue, she pointed out, drew a number of experience of losing my boyfriend to going back to normal life, options, from Balenciaga to Kate Spade. A fashion new advertisers to the parenting genre, including every day was a challenge in the beginning. I learned how to shoot has girls dressing up in their mother’s acces- Burberry, Lexus, Land Rover, David Yurman, Sea appreciate every moment and every second. sories. There are exotic and domestic family vacation Island, Bedat and Neiman Marcus. It also brought “But I love challenges and love to achieve things and to push destinations in a range of price points; meals that new advertisers to Condé Nast, such as Bugaboo, myself,’’ she said. “For me, life is about learning and growing. celebrity chefs eat with their own kids; an entertain- Nestlé Good Start formula, Aaron Basha jewelry, For me, to stop learning is to stop living.” Catimini apparel, Nest bedding and Oeuf furniture. Nemcova will be getting more exposure next month, when Dillon said, so far, response for 2006 has been Warner Books publishes her autobiography “Love Always, Petra.” overwhelmingly positive, and, according to She described it as a story about unconditional love, including the Guzman, reader reaction during focus group test- many strangers who sacrificed for one another in the tsunami. ing has brought more of the same — even among “You can’t really say one thing is black or white,’’ Nemcova women outside the target demographic. said. “There is always both or whole different shades. Any dis- “These were not all fancy ladies,” she said of the aster is horrible. This one affected 286,000 people but it’s also participants. “I would brace myself thinking some brought so much love from around the world. For me, it’s given of them wouldn’t get it, that we were going to get me time to spend with my family, and all these opportunities clobbered. But they loved it. that give me a wider reach. I take this as something that has “That’s the thing about parenting,” Guzman been given to me for a reason and I don’t want to throw that added. “It’s the great equalizer. Everyone wants the away. This gift, I am trying to make the best of it.” best for their kids.” — Rosemary Feitelberg — Sara James

PREMATURE Nicole A FITTING CONCLUSION: Kate Moss won’t be appearing in H&M ads anytime soon, but she EXPOSURE: Richie in can be seen modeling the retailer’s clothes in the new issue of V magazine. Moss was all set Here’s a great Life & to star in the campaign for Stella McCartney’s collaboration with H&M when London’s Daily MEMO PAD way to make Mirror published photos of Style. sure that Kate her snorting cocaine, exclusive celebrity photo shoot you’ve spent Moss causing several advertisers, months lining up doesn’t stay exclusive: Hold it in V. including H&M, to drop on the beach just off Santa Monica pier. The her. The pictures in V are locale, which is part of the world’s most Polaroids that McCartney paparazzi-infested stretch of sand, was where took of Moss at a fitting Ellegirl chose to shoot Nicole Richie for its shortly before the scandal March cover. No sooner had photographer Viki erupted. “For better or Forshee set up than lensmen from the X17 worse, we still think Kate photo agency began circling. Though the looks great,” reads the magazine had hired security for the shoot, the text. — J.B. decision was made not to chase the intruders off, for a simple reason. “She was loving it,” IN DA CLUB: GQ finally has said Ellegirl’s new editor in chief, Christina Kelly, a replacement for Bradley of Richie. “Her face lit up.” Young, the photo director As a result, pictures from the shoot are on who left this summer to prominent display in this week’s celebrity tabloids, become In Style’s director of photography. After an exhaustive search, the magazine has including In Touch and Life & Style (which tapped...its own senior photo editor, Dora Somosi. In other GQ news, editor in chief Jim credited Ellegirl) and Star (which didn’t). Kelly, whose first issue hits newsstands on Tuesday, Nelson will host a screening of “Get Rich or Die Tryin’” tonight, in honor of rapper Curtis “50 said, “It’s still going to be a great cover — just a little less special now.” — Jeff Bercovici Cent” Jackson being named one of the magazine’s “Men of the Year.” — S.J. 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM

Roman Holiday Lindsay Lohan in NEW YORK — They came, they saw, they conquered. Fendi. Tutti Roma — or at least tutti Fendi, including Silvia, Carla, Fé, Alessandro and designer Karl eye® Lagerfeld — turned out Thursday night to fete the opening of the house’s 80th anniversary. Among those who came to kiss the Fendi rings, so to speak, were Liv Tyler, Lindsay Lohan and Giorgio Armani. “My favorite Fendi bag is the one I am carrying tonight,” said the newly brunette Lohan, who employed the services of a male friend to carry her brand-new cream patent B Fendi tote. “It doesn’t match,” she explained, “but I wanted to bring it anyway.” By evening’s end, she was clutching something that went much better: a large silver python Spy bag. Lagerfeld, meanwhile, was impeded in his progress through the airy space by small mobs of camera-wielding Japanese fans. “I was working the whole time in my new photo studio,” he said of his New York stay. “I shot for the Neiman Marcus catalogue, for Japanese Vogue — I was working every minute.” But the high point of his trip? “Always Matsuri. It’s my favorite.” Afterward, Celerie Kemble, Hope Atherton and Amanda Brooks traveled further uptown for dinner at Bernard Arnault’s pied-à-terre to celebrate the new Fendi Rome Prize Fellowship, in partnership with the American Academy in Rome. Sadly, Arnault himself was unable to attend due to the death of his mother earlier in the week, but his shoes were filled by LVMH’s Sidney Toledano Fabiola Giorgio Armani and Karl Lagerfeld Fabiola and Fendi chief executive officer Michael Burke. Yvonne Beracasa Liv Tyler Force, Sophie Dahl and Fabiola Beracasa admired the stunning inin Fendi.Fendi. view from the space, which overlooks Central Park. And what’s in store for the first Fendi Rome Prize winner? “If they are Alexis good, they can work for me,” joked Burke. Not bad, considering he’s Bryan responsible for Lagerfeld remaining with the house. “A lot of people inin VeraVera wanted me to hire someone new when I came,” he said, “but there’s no Wang. one like him.” Meanwhile, across town, a swarm of aspiring socialites, as well as a few bona fide ones, surged into the Metropolitan Museum of Art for its Grand Tour-themed Yo ung Benefits Dance. The main staircase of the museum’s entryway was dramatically lit with hundreds of multicolored votive candles. “I feel like I’m on a cruise ship,” said Dabney Mercer, dressed in vintage Lanvin and bejeweled Ungaro pumps. Inside the Temple of Dendur, Eugenia Silva, Alexis Bryan, Zani Gugelmann and Eleanor Ylvisaker milled around. Though many showed their social circuit inexperience by misinterpreting the black-tie dress code with bouffants, seamed stockings and opera-length satin gloves, some, such as actress Erika Christensen, got it just right. “As soon as I tried this on, I knew it was a winner,” she said of her understated black Escada gown.

Elettra Weidemannidemann and Isabella Rossellini, Fé Fendi in Fendi with both in Fendi. Marcia Mishaan. Eugenia Silva Zani inin Armani.Armani. Gugelmann inin Escada.Escada.

Yvonne Force in Eleanor Fendi with Erika Christensen Ylvisaker Katherine Ross. inin Escada.Escada. inin Chanel.Chanel. FENDI PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; MET BY KEITH SMITH STEVE EICHNER; MET BY FENDI PHOTOS BY it’s coming

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Leigh Bantivoglio’s silk charmeuse nightgown. Christian Dior’s polyester and elastin slip.

Jonquil’s silk and rayon cut-velvet nightgown.

Cut to the Lace WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Spoylt’s satin silk and polyamide bra with Arianne’s nylon and spandex shorts. FOREVER; MAKEUP BY BOBBI QUEEN STYLED BY LUCKY/JUMP; PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: ROBI AND KLAUDIA, BOTH FOR NEXT; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR/L’OREALPROFESSIONNEL AND DOROTA LATA/MAKEUP LATA/MAKEUP RIAD AZAR/L’OREALPROFESSIONNEL HAIR BY AND DOROTA MODELS: ROBI AND KLAUDIA, MITRA; BOTH FOR NEXT; ROBERT PHOTOS BY

NEW YORK — There’s nothing more glamorous than getting down to the basics — that is, when simple shapes are rendered in silk and touched with romance. Ruffles and lace, both seen in the New York and European collections, are adding charm to spring’s lingerie. 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Legwear Report Creativity Steps Forward for Spring By Laura Klepacki American Essentials is also the longstanding license holder for Calvin Klein. The brand is featuring more color, but in softer NEW YORK — The spring legwear market represents the minority share of the indus- tones, like creamy pinks and nude shades. try’s annual sales, but vendor offerings for 2006 are brimming with creativity as firms The brand is also unveiling sophisticated floral prints for the work to boost business. season. Catrinel Popa, vice president of merchandising and design at Kayser-Roth, over- “You need to make sure that your product is really intriguing and seeing the Hue and No Nonsense brands, said declines in the sheer hosiery business that there is a point of differentiation at point of sale,” said Slade. have pushed everyone to closely examine the customer’s lifestyle. Spring news from Sara Lee Hosiery includes the introduction “You try to understand what she wears, what she wants and what she is comfortable of the Donna Karan Body Perfect Collection that comprises with,” said Popa. “And then you start creating and inventing, and designing with those allover smoothing and shaping items in capri and mid-thigh sil- parameters.” houettes that retail at $30 to $34. The items offer a lightweight FOGAL AND HUE MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY Sales of hosiery, including socks, sheer hosiery and tights, fell 5.3 percent for the alternative to traditional shaping hosiery, according to Romaine year ending Aug. 31, according to NPD Group, a research firm based in Port Sargent, vice president, Sara Lee Hosiery. Washington, N.Y. The sheer hosiery category plummeted 15.6 percent to slightly more Its Hanes brand is unveiling the Silk Reflections Transparent than $1 billion, while tights slipped 13.6 percent to just under $113 million. The sock Sheer Collection in late January. Sargent said innovations in segment was the bright light, with sales up 3.5 percent to $1.6 billion. spandex ultra sheer yarns “allow this collection to fit like a sec- Challenges to the hosiery market have been coming from many directions. The ond skin and [be] so light that it is virtually invisible.” fashion trend for bare-legged looks has been a major contributor. And once again, a The line is available in thigh-high, sheer-to-waist and trans- warm September delayed the start of fall buying, several firms said. parent control-top versions, and is retailing for $8.95 a pair. Fogal’s Some retailers have been removing hosiery displays from main floors, Susan Spindell, sales manager for Hot Sox, said its sales for fall fuchsia limiting the opportunity for the impulse sale, which is a key driver of this have been strong so far and have been helped by the August tight. category. Last month, Macy’s Herald Square flagship shifted hosiery up a launch of the Hot Sox Comfort Line, a collection featuring half-flight to the perimeter balcony area, filling the old space with an cushioned soles, relaxed tops and very soft materials. expanded handbag department. The company recently revamped its packaging, Retail prices for the category will be holding steady for spring. One rea- which now calls attention to individual prod- son is that higher gas prices are forcing consumers to spend more cau- uct attributes, such as a seamless toe, and tiously. In addition, an increase in low-price materials imported from makes selection easier for consumers, noted China is causing everyone to keep prices down to stay competitive. Spindell. But intrepid manufacturers are optimistic that the fall/winter season At Fogal, where retail prices for products will have a strong finish and are already looking ahead with a robust average around $32, business has been strength- spring lineup they feel could bring an uptick in sales. ening this fall. Total sales have exceeded plan for For the first and second quarters, legwear brands are featuring the past three months, said Donna Waxman Lane, arrays of bright colors, as well as romantic sheer, lace and crocheted the company’s U.S. agent. socks and anklets. There are also expanding selections of no-show For spring, Fogal is maintaining its focus on pantyhose, but products. Like lingerie, the no-show items are hidden from view, but are always with a high-fashion positioning, with a new take on the designed to provide comfort to the wearer. fishnet. Leg Resource, which produces hosiery under several private label “It is not just a basic net,” said Lane. “It is interwoven with brands, as well as several licenses including Anne Klein and Via Spiga, a leaf pattern.” is focusing on “a lot of crochet in loafer socks, anklets and toe covers,” Additionally, she said, the material contains Lycra span- said Wayne Lederman, president. dex and “feels great on the body.” Its toe covers are being made a little Fogal is elevating the popular polka dot look to the next higher on the foot next season so they can be A selection level with Pois, a pantyhose with a raised dot and delicate glimpsed. There also are trouser socks, loafer of Hue’s lines for a connect-the-dot look. For colors, it, too, is not shying socks and anklets in shimmery and shiny spring looks. away from brights. It expects its number-one spring shade to be a fuchsia. yarns, and collections in bright colors, particu- For the Hue brand, there are styles that speak to “fashion and function,” and larly orange, green and blue. there are also some that are just “pure fun,” said Popa of Kayser-Roth. “The colors are fairly bright, not pastel,” said Lederman. In spring, Hue’s Fabulous Feet collection, introduced a few years ago to address Via Spiga’s Lederman also said there is an entire collection of peds in women’s summer needs, will be freshened once again with new liners, toe toppers and microfiber luxury yarns such as modal, spun rayon and microfiber, tubes. toe cover reflecting an industry trend to using materials with a soft feel. “We continuously look for new materials that are comfortable and absorbent,” said Popa. with ankle Despite market challenges, there apparently is room for New for the coming season is a collection called Super Sleek, comprising anklets straps. new players. that have the fine weight of pantyhose. Popa describes its new delicate sock as “very Michele Slade, vice president of sales and marketing at fashion-forward and European in feel.” American Essentials, the producer of Michael by Michael The socks, which retail for $6, are offered in graphic prints and bold colors. If they Kors legwear, which made its debut in July, said sell- catch on, the brand will likely introduce a version for business wear. throughs of the new collection have been better than Hue also continues to develop its flip-flop business launched last year and is adding expected. footless tights for spring based on its early success with the category this fall. “Socks, trouser socks, tights and knee-highs are really “We see the footless tights worn with a floaty skirt and ballet shoes,” said Popa. “We happening for fall,” she said. used to do it many years back and we are seeing it become important again.” For the brand’s inaugural spring collection, Slade said it It also is freshening up its basic jeans sock for spring with contrasting trim colors. “is going after an updated Palm Beach look.” At No Nonsense, the business is undergoing a renaissance. It is becoming “more The emphasis is on bright colors, including orange coral, multifaceted,” said Popa. “It used to be just a sheer brand and we are changing that lime green and soft pink. In addition to lots of color, there are rapidly.” Indian prints, zebra prints and gold trim carried over from Kors’ The new No Nonsense has a stronger sock business and now includes a collection other accessory categories. equivalent to Hue’s Fabulous Feet. The brand is moving away from socks and knee-highs, replacing Reflecting the changes in the industry, Popa said, “We are being nimble and quick these looks with no-shows, such as liners for loafers. and alert. We are not sitting there idle.” fresh american style SOCKS

SHOP ONLINE AT TOMMY.COM 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005

Accessories Report Jacob & Co.: Beyond the Bling

By Sophia Chabbott Jacob Arabo Helena Christensen NEW YORK — The King of Bling is making some changes at his diamond jewelry inin JacobJacob && house, which is revered by such entertainers as Beyoncé Knowles, Lil’ Kim, Jay-Z, Co.’s new Pharrell Williams and Diddy. campaign. Jacob Arabo, also known as “Jacob the Jeweler,” is looking toward the future of the 19-year-old Jacob & Co. by tapping a former Harry Winston executive to manage the business, introducing a design-driven women’s jewelry line and launching its first jewelry advertising campaign in the spring with model Helena Christensen. Arabo contends that his jewelry is not intended solely for glitz lovers, but that it is suit- able for a range of consumers — from society doyennes to corporate bigshots. Starting next month, his firm is expanding its women’s collection, which may increase the business 20 percent, he said. Arabo would not comment on the volume of the overall business. For the new collection, 30 pieces of diamond jewelry have been added to an existing collection of 20, ranging from a delicate Asscher-cut diamond cross pendant set in platinum to classically feminine French wire earrings featuring a single diamond surrounded by a bezel of pavé diamonds. Retail prices open at $3,000. The jewelry will be sold exclusively at the Jacob & Co. boutique on 57th Street here, and there are plans to wholesale it within the next few years; this will be the first time the pieces will be available at other stores. The company now wholesales its watches in more than 300 department, jewelry and watch stores, as well as at fashion boutiques worldwide such as Colette in Paris and Jeffrey New York. The elegant sensibility of the new collection is not exactly the foundation on which Arabo has built his reputation. However, Arabo, a native of Tashkent, Uzbekistan, has designed classic pieces along with his over-the-top ARABO PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY ARABO custom work since the beginning. “The kind of jewelry I design is for women to wear every Arabo told a story of a ring he only recently custom-designed for a man who has day with jeans,” he said. “I don’t like jewelry that can only be yet to find a fiancée. worn with a black-tie dress. My goal is to promote diamonds.” “He wanted the perfect ring,” Arabo said. Arabo has stuck to his word. The jeweler teamed with As for Arabo’s previous dealings in women’s jewelry, Haag said, “He sells Sneaker Luxe, adding a diamond insignia to silhouettes from a lot, but not as much as he should.” the brand’s footwear. He also partnered with knitwear design- In conjunction with the campaign, the company is redesigning its Web er Lucien Pellat-Finet, transferring Pellat-Finet’s diamond site to include the new jewelry pieces and images from the ads. Previously, hemp leaf and skull motifs that are typically woven into his the site only displayed watches. cashmeres onto the face of two watches. As far as retail goes, both Arabo and Haag have considered opening stores In addition to the expanded women’s collection, Jacob & Co. is in London, Moscow and Los Angeles, among other locations, though there are no launching its first jewelry ad campaign, shot and styled by immediate plans. Rocco Laspata and Charles DeCaro, who also shot the Harry Aplatinum and “Since Jacob is so hands-on, he doesn’t want to spread himself too thin Winston campaign with model Carolyn Murphy. diamond brooch. with too many stores,” Haag said. “Our focus is here right now.” The ads, which bow in the first quarter of next year in na- Arabo, 40, began his career with two booths in the Diamond District, tional and regional publications, have a theme of “edgy romance” and but came to fame when Faith Evans, then wife of rapper Notorious feature Christensen against a wall of dark ivy, accessorized in pieces B.I.G., told her husband about Arabo. The music world immediately from the new line of jewelry. The pieces include a heart-cut diamond took to him, singing about him in their songs and putting Arabo into pendant; stiletto earrings, each set with two cushion cuts; bangles of music videos as the mascot for the Nineties phenomenon of bling. fancy pink and yellow intense diamonds set in rose gold and yellow In 2004, Arabo purchased 48 East 57th Street, a town house with a gold, respectively, and a 94-inch, 73-carat diamond chain inspired by storefront to showcase Jacob & Co. The store has been described by Arabo’s wife and muse, Angela, an active participant in the business. the New York Times as “Austin Powers comes to 57th Street.” Some campaign shots feature only Jacob & Co.’s watches, a bur- Designed to look like a diamond mine, the striated Corian walls geoning business. Musician Thalía was previously featured in the com- are inlaid with seamless jewelry cases that when swiped with an pany’s watch advertisements. electronic card key lower or rise. The sales office, watchmaker and The company also is producing its first catalogue, with images from jewelry repair are located within the building as well. the campaign and jewelry still lifes. The catalogue will be mailed to the “It’s a fully integrated operation,” Haag said. current client base and prospective clients. This effort is en route to Arabo’s ultimate goal: to be inducted into “Jacob shook up the market with a men’s fine jewelry line,” said Jim the unofficial club of Fifth Avenue jewelers, and to count Cartier, Van Haag, managing director of sales and marketing at Jacob & Co., an industry Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston as competitors. veteran who has worked for both the Diamond Information Center and most A white gold and The road to Fifth Avenue status has been a bit rocky, though. Copies of recently Harry Winston. “Any brand needs to evolve to stay young, and that’s diamond bracelet. Arabo’s colorful and complicated oversize watches inundate the stalls on what Jacob has to do.” Canal Street. Also, firms like Tiret, a fine watch company owned by Damon Haag spearheaded the women’s launch and ad campaign, and was brought into Dash, have come out with watches with a similar look: big, obvious and bedecked. Jacob & Co. in August to up the ante and take the brand to a mainstream level. Chris Aire, a Los Angeles jeweler known as the “Iceman,” has been gaining on Haag believes that Arabo’s success lies in his interpersonal communications and Arabo’s turf, dressing Missy Elliott, Foxy Brown, Selma Blair, Lindsay Lohan and hands-on sensibility. Nelly in flashy gems. “Every diamond that is sold in this store goes through Jacob’s hands,” he said, To that, Arabo said, “When you come to Jacob & Co., it’s not just bling, it’s an invi- adding that it’s rare for customers to get personal service from a proprietor. tation. Everything I make, you will never see me copy. Imagine you’re a customer: He said 30 percent of sales are custom orders, which Arabo thrives on. To wit, Why would you go to the second best? I take it as a compliment.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 11 WWD.COM Kieselstein-Cord Prowls for Growth By Jennifer Hirshlag to $1,700, and AKC by Kieselstein-Cord, an ap- dependent woman who is confident, worldly parel grouping made in arrangement with the and well-to-do,” said Robert Burke, senior NEW YORK — If Kieselstein-Cord has its way, it will American Kennel Club that will showcase A sketch of a vice president of fashion for Bergdorf soon be snapping up a larger audience. whimsical canine prints on innerwear and Crocodile Hall Goodman, which houses Kieselstein-Cord’s The brand favored among luxury consumers for its outerwear. handbag. flagship in-store shop. “The brand has a high-end jewelry and accessories, such More could be in the works, very loyal following and continues to add as belt buckles, handbags and eyewear too. Founder, creative director new customers with its new collections.” that sometimes feature a signature and president Barry Kiesel- Burke cited Kieselstein-Cord’s new crocodile, is exploring growth opportu- stein-Cord said the brand, diamond-enhanced jewelry assortment nities to build annual sales from about $50 whose logo was inspired by a that began retailing two years ago, but million to $300 million in the next five years. former pet crocodile named Kieselstein-Cord said he also has en- The brand push is already under way: Herbert, is interviewing po- joyed success with the recent addi- ● Next week, Kieselstein-Cord will add tential investors for the tion of the lower-priced sterling sil- Boston’s reopened Shreve, Crump first time in its 30-year ver Vero collection based on the & Low to its retail distribution, history. macabre icons of Mexico’s Day of and begin construction on an “We confined our the Dead. in-store shop in Hirshleifer’s distribution to achieve “People have a tendency to think of in Manhasset, N.Y., which is true luxury status and it my work as bold, but they are finally get- expected to be open for the Kieselstein- worked,” Kieselstein-Cord said. “We are ting acquainted with my entire dialogue,” Kieselstein- holiday shopping season. Cord shoes. now a known entity to the cognescenti who Cord said. “And my customer has expanded. I used to be ● In January, the brand will begin really understand high-end luxury product. able to say it’s 40 and above, but now it’s 18 and above. I renovations at its year-and-a-half-old, But in the last five years, we have been chafing have reached out to a young market and a broader seg- 1,000-square-foot SoHo boutique on at the bit to unconfine ourselves. We are pre- ment of the population because I think that’s another Prince Street here that is expected to pared to spread our wings.” form of expression for the brand.” boost selling space 50 percent. The Kieselstein-Cord, who worked in film and im- Kieselstein-Cord said he has experimented success- brand also is completing updates in its porting Art Deco antiques, got his start in the fully with other categories, like cashmere and men’s ties, eight-year-old Palm Beach, Fla., bou- business by happenstance. in the past. tique on Worth Avenue, and shopping “I was living with a gal who decided to take a “When I went into handbags, I was asked, why hand- around for a bigger uptown flagship jewelry course, and not wanting her out of my sight, bags,” he explained. “The prevailing thinking was, what after moving out of a year-old boutique I decided to take the course, too,” he recalled. “I do jewelry designers know about handbags. But it be- on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. loved what I was doing, so I decided to take an ad- came a multimillion-dollar business for me. I’m betting ● In the spring, Kieselstein-Cord vance course. The teacher told me I had absolutely someone is going to say, why are you doing footwear. But will introduce three new categories: no talent and there was no way I should continue.” why not footwear, or even perfume and outerwear?” Crocodile Hall, a 20-piece selection of Today, Kieselstein-Cord counts two Coty Kieselstein-Cord said new ideas are always arising. more affordable weekend-ready totes, American Fashion Critics Awards and a Council of “There is nothing in my everyday life that isn’t inspir- handbags and unisex carryalls de- Fashion Designers of America award among his ing,” he said. “It can be everything, from an incredible signed from a colorful logo-patterned credits. His designs are also in the Metropolitan painting and sculpture to the bumper of an automobile to leather; Kieselstein-Cord footwear, fea- Museum of Art in New York and the Louvre in a leftover piece of iron in the scrap heap. It could even be turing alligator skins and gold-plated sig- Kieselstein-Cord’s Four Paris. the arrangement of food on a plate. I’m very visually ori- Elements earrings.

SHOE PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT SHOE PHOTO BY nature hardware that will retail from $350 “The Kieselstein-Cord customer is a very in- ented and everything presents itself as an opportunity.” 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005

Accessories Soutache dresses up handbags. Bebe to Open Accessories Chain NEW YORK — Seeking to capitalize on retail concepts devoted to single-product categories, Bebe said Friday that it would launch an accessories store chain called Neda by Bebe. The stores will be devoted to accessories, handbags and shoes with a Bebe point of view—in other words, sexy. Bebe Stores Inc., based in Brisbane, Calif., has been on something of a roll. Demand for sweaters, denim and accessories pushed up first-quarter profits by 18.9 percent and drove a 22.3 percent rise in the quarter’s revenues. Same-store sales increased 17.3 percent. “This decision is consistent with Bebe’s long-term objectives, and we believe the development of new concepts is integral to store growth,” Greg Scott, chief executive officer, said in a statement. “With the launch of Neda by Bebe, the company continues to build customer loyalty to the Bebe brand and the sophisticated lifestyle it represents.” The company said the stores’ name was inspired by vice chairman Neda Mashouf. “She has been our muse for over 20 years,” Scott said. “Her eclectic, sexy and sophisticated style clearly represents the Bebe design aesthetic.” Bebe operates one accessories concept unit adjacent to its store at the Lenox PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY Square Mall in the affluent Buckhead section of Atlanta. The company is set to open a flagship with an expanded shoe and handbag area this month on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The company plans to open its first free- Handbags Ruehl at New Shop standing Neda by Bebe location in the spring. Bebe will assess its performance before rolling out the concept in 2007. NEW YORK — Ruehl’s first Single-category store concepts aren’t always successful. Gap opened several Gap Body stores, but never progressed to a serious rollout, and Neiman Marcus accessories-only store opened discontinued its smaller Galleries stores for jewelry and gifts. Still, the idea re- last week on Bleecker Street. mains popular. Abercrombie & Fitch’s Ruehl last week opened a store here devoted to ac- The line features rugged- cessories. looking belts and handbags Scott said the company plans to open 35 stores in fiscal 2006, including 20 made from sturdy buffalo and Bebe and 12 Bebe Sport stores. The company has also announced plans to launch a branded performance line shearling and decorated with called Bebe SB in its Bebe Sport units. The store bridal-ring hardware. There’s Bebe operates 224 stores, made up of 170 Bebe stores, 35 Bebe Sport stores design was and 19 Bebe outlet locations. inspired by also dyed French rabbit for a — Sharon Edelson a library. softer, more luxurious touch.

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A PUFF PIECE: Sean “Diddy” Combs’ style is often capped off by The watches have a Sixties feel with wooden dial treatments, digital faces encased in a pair of sunglasses, so it was only a matter of time before his fake gold cases and straps of textured metal striations reminiscent of a vintage Hamilton FINDINGS Sean John women’s and men’s sportswear label signed an style. Retail prices range from $95 to $400. agreement to produce the signature accessory. The collection will be celebrated at the company’s New York flagship at 1077 Sixth Diddy announced last week that Marchon Eyewear Inc. will hold the worldwide Avenue tonight and will be available at better department stores and specialty license to manufacture and distribute sunglasses and ophthalmic eyewear for the boutiques next spring. Sean John label and the Sean by Sean Combs women’s label. The collection will debut in the Sean John flagship, specialty stores, ROSY OUTLOOK: Rosy Blue Group, the 117-year-old, Antwerp, Belgium-based fine department stores and sunglasses and optical retailers in the U.S. for spring jewelry and diamond company, is undergoing management changes. Effective this 2007. Prices will range from $90 to $300. January, Dipu Mehta will assume the role of president and chief operating officer for Marchon also holds licenses for eyewear by Calvin Klein, Coach, Fendi and the Rosy Blue Group and Rosy Blue Fine Inc. divisions of the company. Michael Kors. Mehta has been with the Rosy Blue Group division, which designs, manufactures and distributes private label jewelry, for seven years. He will take on YOUR FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS: Verdura’s annual catalogue held a surprise for those who the same responsibilities at Rosy Blue Fine, which launched and oversees the Vera Wang received it last week. Interspersed throughout were insights on the company from the Fine Jewelry and ROSIBLU collections. Unmesh Desai will continue to handle the fine jeweler’s most famous clients and fans. company’s third division, which deals with loose diamonds. “I feel naked as a jaybird until I splash on some perfume and put on a piece of “I thought that with Rosy Blue Group and Rosy Blue Fine catering to jewelry Verdura,” wrote New York socialite Carolyne Roehm. distribution, there was a lot of synergy that could happen between the two,” said An Original There are also quotes from Princess Michael of Kent, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Mehta. “We are going to continue with what we have done in the past, but put a lot Penguin watch. Renta, Mario Buatta, Elaine Wynn, Danielle Steel and Joan Rivers. more effort into growing Rosy Blue Fine.” On another note, the 66-year-old company that famously dressed heiress At Rosy Blue Fine, Mehta will replace Koichi Takahashi, who has been with the division since Doris Duke is lending some of its Sixties-inspired pieces to the film “Bernard 2003 and is leaving the company when his contract expires. and Doris,” based on the life of Duke and being filmed in New York starring The Rosy Blue Group generated about $1.5 billion in sales last year. Susan Sarandon and Ralph Fiennes. Duke’s Verdura collection was sold at auction for $300,000 in June 2004. AT HOME ON THE RANGE: Dallas jewelry designer Dian Malouf’s new coffee-table book, “Seldom Heard,” could hardly be farther ALL THAT GLITTERS: Kenzie is aiming to give women the time and their removed from fashion. jewels, too. Written and photographed by Malouf, the book chronicles the The young contemporary brand is launching an assortment of watches anachronistic lifestyles and histories of ranchers living in near under a license with New York-based Accutime Watch Corp. that feature isolation in the brush country of South Texas. intricate metalwork, antique plating and an array of colorful semiprecious “These are the last of the holdouts,” she said. “Things have stones. The timepieces will begin rolling out to Kenzie’s freestanding changed down here less than anywhere else in the country. They stores, boutiques and better department and specialty stores for spring, do things like their daddy or granddaddy did.” with average retail prices below $50. Over the past 20 years, Malouf interviewed 25 ranchers at their Kenzie, a Vancouver subsidiary of Westcoast Contempo Fashions, has homes and ventured on a four-day roundup to swim cattle across in the last year also signed licenses for jewelry, shoes, eyewear, belts, the mouth of the Colorado River — “the most fun I’ve ever had in A Kenzie bags and cold-weather accessories. It is planning in the next year on my life.” watch. The cover of Dian Malouf’s opening additional stores in the U.S. and China to complement its Malouf, whose designs are sold by Neiman Marcus and Saks “Seldom Heard.” current locations in Seattle and Santa Monica, Calif. Fifth Avenue, is certain the ranchers agreed to meet with her only because she was a local girl, reared in the heart of the brush country in Hebbronville, Tex. BIRDS OF A FEATHER: Original Penguin also is getting into the watch “They live in the middle of nowhere and they don’t trust anybody,” she said. “It was an business.The 50-year-old women’s and men’s apparel brand undergoing a impossible task, and I’m always drawn to impossible tasks.” revival with its “geek chic” styling is expanding into the fashion watch Published by Beyond Words in Hillsboro, Ore., “Seldom Heard” debuts Nov. 10 with a party category under a license with Seiko Instruments USA. at Dallas’ Beretta boutique. 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Cautious Wind Swirls at Market By Karyn Monget “While we and our retail partners still feel confi- Striped cotton dent about holiday business, there are many concerns NEW YORK — Problems such as the aftermath of pajamas by that the recent weather problems and world events Hurricanes Katrina, Rita and Wilma, a warmer and Derek Rose at may have long-term effects on spring ’06 business,” wetter than usual fall and higher gas prices are among NAP and Petit Mitchell said. “The Josie Natori launch has been suc- the challenges a majority of retailers and vendors face Bateau top. cessful and I think to date we haven’t seen people pull during this week’s market. back. But I think people are cautious and waiting to While November typically is not as big a market as see what happens, and what their heating bills are. March and August, it is still a pivotal time for manu- “It’s really a strategic market,’’ she said. “We’ll be facturers to solidify orders for spring, as well as se- previewing warmwear for next year and and will also cure new orders for summer, transitional and back-to- be working on strategies for spring and Christmas school business. 2006. This market will really be a collaboration of But innerwear executives, particularly resources in what’s happening next year.” the moderate range, said they were bracing for an un- Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said, “Everyone certain week as major department and specialty stores is trying to be as optimistic as possible and project out are said to be taking a cautious approach in assessing their future business. We expect it to be a reasonably and completing programs for second-quarter selling. attended market. We’ll be showing a new Anne Lewin Executives acknowledge business at retail has been and Crabtree & Evelyn collection of sleepwear for tough this fall, and large and small operations have summer and transition.” been timing orders as close to scheduled deliveries as “I think people are extremely cautious right now, possible, vendors said. especially with the unusually warm weather, the hurri- A main reason is the uncertainty of consumers’ canes and the price of gas,” said Ying Li, designer of spending patterns during the holiday selling season. luxe sleepwear and daywear that bears her name. “It’s Another factor expected to affect traffic will be all dampened the moods of retailers and business has fewer smaller specialty boutiques from the Southeast, been tough out there. Even larger stores are delaying Midwest and West Coast. Independent shops depend the ordering process.” on consumers’ appetites for fashion brands and mer- Regarding spending habits of an affluent consumer chandise, and fall sales have been generally lackluster. base, Flora Nikrooz, designer of her eponymous col- However, the demand for fashion lingerie has not lection at Age Group, said, “When the product is ex- waned in the luxe and designer arena, a line of business pensive and rich looking, not necessarily a great value, that remains strong at upscale stores such as Neiman the customer is buying it.” Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The licensed character Marcia Leeds, chief executive officer of Richard business also continues to build as consumers look for Leeds International, said, “I have no complaints. products that are fun and humorous, which are generat- People are buying items that put a smile on their face ing strong sell-throughs during difficult economic times. during terrible times. They are looking for fun things to Jessica Mitchell, senior vice president of merchan- wear and we’ll have a lot of that for back-to-school like dising and marketing at Natori Co., said retailers and several DC Originals properties: Superman, Supergirl, consumers have mixed feelings. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY Batman, Batgirl, Catwoman and Wonder Woman.”

Sherry et Cie and Jacques Levine. $180,000. Copies of the the spring-summer 2006 edition will “We got together because we used to show in November be expanded, and rendered in Italian, English, Russian and INTIMATE NOTES either at Lingerie Americas or the Intimate Apparel Salon,” Japanese. La Perla is targeting direct distribution via La Perla NAP UNITES WITH NITCHES: NAP Inc., a 20-year-old sleepwear Scotto said. “But the salon is no longer boutiques, a select number of high-end shops firm, is to announce a merger today with Nitches Inc., a around and Lingerie Americas doesn’t show and eventually hotels and spas worldwide. publicly traded company. In a transaction approved by the in November. We wanted to show spring and The magazine, which is complimentary, boards of both firms, all shareholders of NAP will exchange summer merchandise, but we have no New contains poetry, features and profiles of their shares for shares in Nitches. York showrooms, so we decided to make it as artists and artists’ works. Nitches, which had owned a 28 percent share of NAP convenient as possible for retailers to visit us before the merger, is based in San Diego and has offices in Los near the Madison Avenue showrooms.” JUST GORGEOUS: The 23-year-old Just My Size Angeles and San Francisco. The New York sales and design The collections will be shown today in megabrand at Sara Lee Branded Apparel offices of Nitches will be relocated to the NAP Building at 171 individual hotel suites, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and recently previewed its new Just Gorgeous line Madison Avenue. Tuesday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. of plus-size fashion foundations for spring. Haresh Tharani, chairman of Bill Blass and NAP, headed the The line, which was unveiled at a spa investment group that purchased NAP three years ago. Steve LA PERLA DOES RUSSIA: Italian lingerie brand breakfast at the Bryant Park Hotel in Satin and lace bra by Just Gorgeous. Wyandt, chairman of Nitches, who has been a member of La Perla made its debut on the Moscow Manhattan, features an expanded color NAP’s board since its purchase, said, “Over the past three fashion circuit recently as part of a show dedicated exclusively palette, feminine lace and embroidered details, and scalloped years, we have been aligning the two to Italian fashion brands. More than 400 necklines and lower center-front treatments. companies to make this possible. We expect La Perla people attended the first-time event in a Trisha Bouras, marketing manager of Sara Lee Intimates, that the transition period will be smooth.” hits the “Fashion Tent” in Red Square that was said 54 percent of plus-size women “are not satisfied with the NAP will continue to operate as a Moscow similar to the fashion week shows in New bra styles in her size. We recognized the need for a collection of separate company and maintain its offices in runway. York, a La Perla spokeswoman said. gorgeous bras at a great value.” the NAP Building. Victor Lee will stay as In addition to La Perla, Italian labels on Four styles are an Embroidered Underwire with Satin Straps president, and Eitan Haber as executive vice the catwalk included Pollini by Romeo Gigli, bra, a Lightly Lined Satin and Lace Underwire bra, a Comfort president overseeing production, logistics and Rifat Ozbek, Guerriero and Exte. The show Lace Support Underwire number and a Comfort Lace with Satin overseas offices. was followed by a gala cocktail and dinner Wire-Free style. Sizes range from 40 to 44C, 38 to 48D and Lee said, “NAP will continue to explore party for retailers, media and Russian DD, and 40 to 44 DDD. Colors include black, white, pink lilac, business opportunities with our customers and politicians and their wives. carmine red and a peony pink cross-dyed lace. Suggested retail third parties consistent with our growth strategy.” “Russia is one of the most important is $11.99. NAP’s portfolio includes sleepwear by export markets for Italian fashion today,” said Anne Lewin; the licensed Crabtree & Evelyn, the spokeswoman. “The Italian Day is a way FALLA TO RETIRE: Gloria Falla, vice president of design and Derek Rose, Claire Murray and Vassarette to bring glamour and the quality and research for Sara Lee Branded Apparel, will retire Dec. 31. labels, and licensed loungewear by Dockers versatility of Italian brands directly to the Falla began her career at Sara Lee in 1993 with the Playtex and Bill Blass Lifestyle. It also is the U.S. home of those who consider Italian creativity Co., and is regarded as an expert in the specialized distributor for Princesse Tam Tam and the symbol of a lifestyle.” foundations field. Argentovivo foundations and sleepwear. Meanwhile, La Perla has launched its first Sally Tomkins, vice president of research and development Nitches does sleepwear and loungewear magazine, also called La Perla, which is and design and development, said Falla “has made many by Body Drama, men’s casual apparel by aimed at worldwide consumers, said Anna unique contributions to the world of intimate apparel.” Newport Blue and men’s golf apparel by Masotti, creative and design director of “Her reputation, enthusiasm and drive have allowed her to Skins Games, as well as women’s Western Bologna, Italy-based Gruppo La Perla. “It will become a leader in the industry,” Tomkins said. “Her current wear by Adobe Rose and Southwest Canyon. be published twice a year and it’s dedicated role explored innovation and technology for Sara Lee Branded to the La Perla brands and their values, Apparel. Gloria’s unique gift for translating visionary ideas into MINI SHOW: Six upscale brands will exhibit which include preciousness, emotion and product realities sets her apart from her peers.” lingerie, sleepwear, robes, at-homewear and uniqueness. We wanted to give a body of Falla has been honored with the United Jewish Appeal related accessories through Tuesday at the Affinia Dumont paper, ink and images the special relationship that La Perla Recognition Award, the Good Fellowship Corset Club Award and Hotel at 150 East 34th Street in Manhattan. wants to have with the feminine world, putting an accent on its the Dallas Fashion Award. Most recently, she was profiled in the The resources will include designer collections by Maria Made in Italy identity.” book, “The Moral Advantage: How to Succeed in Business by Scotto, Christine of Vancouver, Carlton Hall, Treesha Inc., The first fall issue printed 50,000 copies with a budget of Doing the Right Thing,” by William Damon.

16 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM The Buzz on Brazilian Fashion

NEW YORK — The girl from Ipanema is really the girl from Monaco. Bicycle handlebars and tires serve as display fixtures. Stephanie Stephanie Monserrat-Laurent, who was raised in the small princi- Monserrat- pality on the Riviera but says her heart belongs to Brazil, is as good Laurent an emissary as anyone for the South American country’s fashion. With equal parts kitsch and imagination, Monserrat-Laurent has transformed a 585-square-foot space at 946 Lexington Avenue between 69th and 70th Streets here into Buzz Brazil, a store that captures the energy and sex appeal of the beach resort. At Buzz Brazil, Monserrat-Laurent is showcasing a handful of her favorite designers. Francesca Giobbi creates cowboy boots in pony and croc, purple and pink leather sandals with jewelry-like accents, killer red pumps and tan boots bearing the legend: “Please don’t hate me because I’m beautiful.” That pretty much sums up the if-you’ve-got-it-flaunt-it spirit of Buzz Brazil. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Many of the clothes and accessories have a handmade feel, A including hand-crocheted boleros, tops by Adriana Barra that whimsical pins shaped like lips and eyes. Handbags are decorated with felt look like a Hermès scarf, and Annalise de Salle’s peasant-y handbag. appliqués of beach scenes and flowers. They sell for $321 to $900. looking tops in a variety of prints with lace sleeves and rib- The atmosphere at Buzz Brazil is also fun. There’s a bottle bon trim. A best-selling dress by Isabela Capeto is made of cachaça on the counter of the cash wrap lest anyone of a sheer fabric, the better to get a peep of the large miss the point. The lethal sugar-cane liquor is used to polkadots on the attached slip. For summer there make the national drink, the caipirinha. will be bathing suits by Jode Mer, and not those The single dressing room has a curtain made of Brazilian string bikinis known as fio dental, or den- Brazilian chita fabric and the cash wrap looks like tal floss, for their skimpiness. a seaside bar with fake vines climbing up the “I did a special cut for American women and sides. Throughout the small store bicycle handle- myself,” said Monserrat-Laurent, whose father bars and wheels function as fixtures. Part of the ceil- founded the upscale children’s clothing brand Tar- ing is tiled to look like a Gaudi design and a section tine et Chocolat. of the wall is covered with traditional Ipanema tiles. To be profitable, Monserrat-Laurent said she’ll have to do On the wall behind the cash wrap there is a photograph of Rio de $250,000 in sales in the store’s first year. Janeiro’s beach with Sugarloaf in the background, framed to look “The designers are all between 21 and 27 years old,” she said. “I like a window. A sign nailed to the wood frame reads Fiado so aman- found some of them in São Paolo at fashion week.” ha!!, which loosely translates to “pay me tomorrow,” typical of Carlos Miele, who has a store on West 14th Street and shows in the Brazilians’ laid-back approach. tents during New York Fashion Week, is the country’s best known Aaron Gavois of Square Foot Realty brokered the deal for Buzz Brazil. designer. But Brazil is finally getting some recognition. “Last year In addition to Buzz Brazil, Monserrat-Laurent will open a restau- was Brazil year in France,” said Monserrat-Laurent. “Vogue, Le rant, Favella Chic, in the neighborhood at the end of the month. Official, Numero and Nylon focused on Brazil.” She’s hoping for some synergy between her ventures. “We’ll have Monserrat-Laurent’s requirement for accessories is only that they be fashion shows at the beginning of each season,” she said. And, of fun. To this end, she stocks key chains made from stuffed animals course, there will be caipirinhas galore. embellished with ribbons and flowers, crocheted iPod cases and felt — Sharon Edelson The tiled ceiling. Babies ‘R’ Us Looks to Grow in NYC Bottega Veneta to Open By David Moin Honolulu Unit Next Year NEW YORK — There’s another big-box retailer in town looking for real estate. Babies ‘R’ Us opened a 30,000-square-foot, three-level store on Union Square East last month, joining NEW YORK — Bottega Veneta is basking in the Hawaiian sun. the growing contingent of category killers and large-format retailers finding sites in Manhattan and seek- It is opening a 3,600-square-foot store at 2100 Kalakaua ing more. Real estate sources said The Home Depot, The Container Store, Target, REI, H&M, Whole Foods, Avenue in Honolulu. The unit, which will bow next year, is Best Buy and Wal-Mart are prowling for space. among three Gucci-owned brands to take up residence at Babies ‘R’ Us operates more than 200 U.S. stores, but the Union Square space is the chain’s first in the 100,000-square-foot open-air luxury shopping center. Manhattan. “We’ll open more stores in Manhattan — absolutely,” Rick Markee, president of Babies ‘R’ Us, Bottega’s move appears to be an affirmation of Hawaii’s said at the ribbon-cutting ceremony. rebound after the 9/11 attacks and the SARS virus, which However, he said that no additional leases are signed and a second Manhattan unit wouldn’t open until kept some tourists away and damaged the area’s economy. after 2006. Finding sites in Manhattan is challenging, Markee explained, because Babies ‘R’ Us requires The Kalakaua Avenue address is among several high- large formats, preferring 25,000- to 37,000-square-foot footprints. Competition for space is heating up with end shopping centers in Waikiki, including the older and other big-box players. larger Ala Moana Center. The luxury market in Hawaii is “Some retailers have to downsize to enter Manhattan, but they are still big box, and must have usable so strong that brands such as Chanel and Gucci operate lower levels or second levels,’’ said Jeffrey Paisner, executive managing director of The Lansco Corp. “They units in both locations. can’t use the same size format they use in the suburbs because Stores at 2100 Kalakaua Avenue are said to average the operating costs in an urban setting are far greater and it’s Babies ‘R’ Us puts some $3,000 in sales per square foot. tough to find the right multilevel situation. Retailers are further style into diaper bags. “Hawaii is one of the most important luxury shopping limited by community opposition in certain residential areas.” destinations in the world, and it is only natural that Bottega Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at Kurt Veneta have a strong presence there,” said Tomas Maier, Salmon Associates, said, “The high costs are made up by high vol- creative director of Bottega Veneta. “We are thrilled to umes, and if you put in a compelling product story, you are going open our third Hawaii location at 2100 Kalakaua Avenue.” to do a lot of volume.” The boutique will carry the full line of Bottega Veneta Despite difficulties, some retailers have managed to find the men’s and women’s items including handbags, shoes, space. “Just look at Whole Foods. They’ve found locations all over ready-to-wear, jewelry, home and small leather goods. the place,” Aronson said, citing the locations on Union Square The Kalakaua door is the newest addition to the island South, in the Time Warner complex on Columbus Circle and on retail scene. Other boutiques at the three-story town Seventh Avenue and 25th Street, with units set for Greenwich house-style center include Coach, Tiffany & Co., Yves Street in TriBeCa and on Bowery and Houston Streets. Saint Laurent, Tod’s and Boucheron. With the city’s dense population as the key attraction, Markee contended that Babies ‘R’ Us in Union Metropole Realty Advisors, which purchased 2100 Square, on the site of a former Toys ‘R’ Us, should do well considering that 100,000 babies are born each Kalakaua Avenue with Heller Properties, cherry-picks year in the five boroughs. He said the store is heavily stocked with the largest selection of newborn and properties in upscale retail locations. Metropole is under infant merchandise. Babies ‘R’ Us is the sister division of Toys ‘R’ Us. contract to acquire 681 Fifth Avenue here, and its portfolio Pam Wallace, Babies ‘R’ Us general merchandise manager, said the new store reflects the company’s includes buildings at Madison Avenue and East 57th drive to make Babies ‘R’ Us more fashionable, whether that involves cover-ups, strollers, furniture or exclu- Street, as well as Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. sive merchandise. She cited strollers in a range of colors from hot pink to turquoise and black, and added “We remain focused on filling the last remaining space that some key vendors, such as Nautica, are supplying “commodity needs and fashion items,” she said. at the property with a brand of similar caliber,” said In addition, Babies ‘R’ Us has an exclusive collection of nursery decor, furniture, layettes, plush and Robert Siegel, chief executive officer of Metropole, refer- gifts designed by Wendy Bellissimo. She built her reputation creating nurseries and kids’ rooms for celebri- ring to 2100 Kalakaua Avenue.” Now our collection is al- ties such as Kelly Ripa and Mel Gibson, but with Babies ‘R’ Us, she said her mission is “to offer style, qual- most complete.” ity and a collection at an affordable price.” — S.E.

18 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE Fashion Cares, It Delivers RETAILERS 74.10 40.56Abercrombie Abercrombie & & Fitch Fitch 20.8 161334 57.92 8.34 NEW YORK — Fashion Delivers Charitable Trust, Baker, president of Op, will work with firms locat- 35.46 18.05Aéropostale Aeropostale 14.9 84341 22.95 4.30 which has already begun processing and delivered on the West Coast. 34.04 19.67American American Eagle Eagle 13.3 191646 25.32 2.93 28.75 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 73.6 97707 27.83 4.03 ing donated products to hurricane disaster vic- Allan Ellinger of MMG Inc., and chairman of the 30.97 13.45Bebe Bebe 19.4 45914 14.59 0.95 tims in the U.S., is set to expand its focus from do- Fashion Delivers board, said U.S. Customs is advis- 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 14063 1.52 -0.12 mestic assistance to international relief efforts to ing importers that the U.S. government has agreed 23.22 11.12Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 15.5 18258 20.76 4.10 44.08 21.02Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 16.2 8107 39.00 0.80 help victims rebuild their lives with goods from to waive duties on certain categories of imported 18.53 10.90Caché Cache 22.7 17839 18.05 2.34 the apparel and home furnishings industries. items consigned to charities helping victims. 22.53 15.75Cato Cato 17.0 9505 22.32 2.52 The organization had its first board meeting A guest at the meeting was Roger Wilson, an 19.05 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 49.7 35607 17.25 0.40 12.34 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 17.5 39167 11.84 0.71 on Wednesday at the offices of CIT Commercial entertainment executive and New Orleans native, 44.76 18.85Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 45.7 121698 41.86 3.95 Services here at 1211 who was among the first to 52.94 29.90Children’s Children's Place Place 36.5 56436 47.45 6.29 Sixth Avenue. Among experience a Fashion 31.60 21.92CVS CVS 20.2 519848 27.02 1.90 The need down there 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 17.0 5312 27.94 2.66 those in attendance were Delivers contribution. 28.60 18.91Dillard’s Dillard's 15.6 40554 21.80 2.12 representatives from the “ “The need down there 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 17.8 135348 18.91 -0.16 Op Division of Warnaco is unending. It is hard to is unending. It is hard to 28.37 15.25Dress Dress Barn Barn 15.5 27474 28.32 3.33 Group, Sean Jean, Li & explain how sad it is. They 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 56.2 966131 41.58 3.15 explain how sad it is. 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 17.7 91640 23.43 1.92 Fung, ENK International, still haven’t buried the 78.05 50.13Federated Federated 14.2 158625 64.14 4.63 Oxford Industries and Bill — Roger Wilson, entertainment” dead, much less dealt with 29.95 18.74Foot Foot Locker Locker 11.2 94225 19.83 0.64 Blass Ltd. the living,” Wilson told the 23.75 15.90Gap Gap 12.3 310422 17.27 0.40 executive and New Orleans native 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 14593 9.54 0.06 The agenda included attendees. 12.45 6.60Gottschalks Gottschalks 20.3 1312 8.94 0.46 establishing committees to raise seed money for Now a resident of New York, he headed back to 32.91 11.58Guess Guess 29.0 56287 32.82 6.86 the balance of the year, formulating goals to his former home on Friday for his third visit since 2.10 0.50Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 480 0.88 0.13 23.49 13.51Hot Hot Topic Topic 18.0 130555 13.99 -0.19 raise funds to meet operating expenses next Hurricane Katrina to help with relief efforts. 57.99 35.84J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 18.9 130587 53.32 4.31 year and having groups liaise with firms regard- Wilson said the one thing he’s noticed is the “next 58.90 43.63Kohl’s Kohl's 21.0 237775 48.88 3.29 ing the donation of goods. day” cycle time regarding the quickness with 27.89 18.81Limited Limited Brands Brands 15.4 126885 20.68 1.36 18.66 6.72Mothers Mothers Work Work 34.6 857 8.20 0.20 Haresh Tharani, chairman of Bill Blass, will which goods sent from the charitable foundation 100.98 62.12Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus - 0 99.98 0.00 work with former Leslie Fay chairman John are distributed to the churches and schools in the 24.41 11.78New New York York & & Co. Co. 16.3 10515 15.50 2.80 Pomerantz, also a Fashion Delivers board mem- area, instead of sitting in warehouses. 37.96 21.48Nordstrom Nordstrom 21.4 120909 37.18 4.41 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 18.0 120899 27.49 3.39 ber, on contacting women’s apparel firms. Todd Fashion Delivers is allied with Kids in 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 28.7 14441 39.62 2.27 Kahn, representing board member Sean Combs Distressed Situations Inc., and uses the K.I.D.S. 14.34 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 20686 11.96 1.97 and the firm Sean Jean, will work with men’s network to channel goods to where they’re need- 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.9 135369 25.80 -0.08 24.64 12.27Saks Saks 27.6 108944 18.19 1.53 wear companies. Ron Ventricelli, attending on be- ed most. Fashion Delivers can be reached at 212- 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.9 149734 124.00 6.55 half of board member Rick Darling of Li & Fung, 629-6700. 28.85 16.88ShopKo ShopKo 17.0 12073 28.68 0.04 will work with home goods manufacturers. Dick — Vicki M. Young 32.39 22.20Stage Stage Stores Stores 15.2 21218 30.00 3.46 26.47 15.75Stein Stein Mart Mart 17.0 11613 19.56 1.23 15.80 10.35Syms Syms 37.1 593 14.43 0.97 35.34 24.20Tal Talbotsbots 15.5 38599 28.30 3.00 court documents. The lawsuit was prompted 60.00 45.55Tar Targetget 23.3 277020 57.41 2.90 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 16.9 192007 22.23 1.30 particularly by a trademark application made by 10.11 3.30United United Retail Retail Group Group - 4444 9.95 0.95 CIT Group Inc. for real estate investment and 33.30 18.93Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 44.6 129670 31.37 3.85 development. CIT Group Inc. did not return a 57.89 42.31W Wal-Martal-Mart 18.8 735081 47.69 2.19 call for comment by press time. 7.04 1.36We Wett Seal Seal - 75622 4.92 -0.03 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 1.5 28004 4.10 -0.89 NCR Corp. filed a complaint against Avon 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 12.6 17285 26.61 -0.49 Products for alleged patent violations. According VENDORS NEW YORK — A complaint filed by Coast to to court documents, NCR claimed that Avon’s 56.31 41.70Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 17.8 27503 42.95 -1.45 45.66 24.63Avon Avon 13.6 187026 28.38 0.59 Coast Fabrics against I.E. Industries Fashion Inc. Web site allegedly infringed on a number of its 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 27.8 224 21.02 0.19 and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. was dismissed with patents, including an asset-management system 37.87 27.40Cherokee Cherokee 17.6 1727 35.87 2.40 prejudice by a Manhattan federal judge on Oct. and a privacy-enhanced database. The complaint 36.42 23.10Coach Coach 33.0 169340 34.22 2.56 62.18 41.00Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.2 18473 44.91 2.84 19. The original lawsuit filed by Coast to Coast includes 10 claims of alleged patent 26.50 18.28Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 14.6 27413 19.95 -1.00 alleged that I.E. Industries Fashion Inc. infringement in all. NCR asked the court for a 47.50 29.98Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 19.9 99156 33.00 0.58 manufactured and distributed garments to Wal- permanent injunction against Avon from further 32.05 14.96Fossil Fossil 13.2 30289 17.13 1.78 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 30.3 310 10.00 -0.11 Mart that infringed on its fabric design infringing on its patents. The technology 43.20 31.40IFF IFF 14.8 35402 32.41 -0.30 copyright. In September, the court denied a company also asked for monetary damages equal 21.80 12.90Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 19.3 7040 15.06 -0.23 motion for a preliminary injunction against I.E. to treble any actual damages. Avon declined to 37.48 26.47Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 13.3 49550 28.59 1.42 36.17 21.83Kellwood Kellwood - 21283 23.25 1.16 Industries and Wal-Mart, and granted a cross- comment, citing company policy. 35.29 23.81Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 14.8 6438 26.16 1.67 motion for summary judgment dismissing the A final judgment on consent was reached in a 43.82 33.70Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 11.8 55235 36.06 1.13 complaint. lawsuit filed by Gucci America Inc. against 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 19.7 7167 5.74 0.74 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 16.2 6162 17.64 0.30 “Fortunately, the judge was very Loehmann’s Inc. and Loehmann’s Operating Co. 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 17.3 91979 87.80 5.00 knowledgeable about copyrights and trademarks Inc. The two parties agreed to settle the lawsuit 53.49 33.34Oxford Oxford 15.3 13621 52.44 4.05 and he threw [the case] out. We are lucky it was a between them, without admission of liability or 16.25 9.52Perfumania Perfumania 8.1 86 12.61 1.36 judge who was experienced in the field,” said damages, according to court documents. The 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 9.2 1602 21.27 1.13 35.38 23.06Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 16.3 17751 29.71 1.61 Haresh Sajnani, vice president, production, for original lawsuit included claims of trademark 54.99 34.19Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 23.3 61629 54.80 6.19 I.E. Industries. infringement, false designation of source origin 18.12 10.63Quiksilver Quiksilver 14.6 79992 12.27 1.14 CIT Group plc, CIT Holdings and CIT (USA) and unfair competition in relation to Gucci’s 57.75 36.94Reebok Reebok 14.4 34572 57.65 0.65 4.29 1.96Revlon Revlon - 39629 2.80 -0.07 LLC filed a trademark infringement lawsuit interlocking GG, GG, rounded G, square G and 21.84 12.31Russell Russell 15.1 17795 14.75 1.48 against CIT Group Inc., in the Southern District repeating GG trademarks. Loehmann’s could not 28.49 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 28.1 16315 26.70 2.02 of New York on Oct. 21. CIT Holdings is a real be reached for comment. 4.22 0.86Tarr Tarrantant - 52400 1.02 -0.54 18.76 8.83To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 13.7 31173 16.87 1.89 estate funding, investment, acquisition and Cameron Giles, who is better known as 18.25 2.82Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 22.0 12922 11.97 -0.04 development company based in the United Cam’ron, filed a copyright infringement lawsuit 61.61 50.44VF VF Corp. Corp. 11.3 25416 53.56 1.86 Kingdom with business operations in the U.S. against Kanye West, Universal Music Group Inc., 25.88 19.23Wa Warnacornaco 19.3 25981 22.90 1.35 CIT Group Inc. is a finance company that offers and EMI Blackwood Music Inc. in Manhattan clients services such as factoring, debtor-in- federal court. The lawsuit claimed that Giles and possession lending, consumer financing, West co-wrote a song entitled “Gone,” which was equipment leasing and small company loans. subsequently recorded by West and another The two organizations have operated under their artist. Giles asked the court for monetary current names for a number of years in damages. noncompetitive industries, according to the — Liza Casabona

WWDStock Market Index Weekly % Changes Ending Nov. 4

Composite: Retailers: Vendors: 1105.14 1115.04 999.12 Largest Gainers Largest Losers Close Change Close Change Guess 32.82 26.43 Tarrant 1.02 -34.62 Bon-Ton 20.76 24.61 Wilsons Leather 4.10 -17.84 64.99 66.48 52.64 Aéropostale 22.95 23.06 Bluefly 1.52 -7.26 New York & Co. 15.50 22.05 Elizabeth Arden 19.95 -4.77 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Retail Ventures 11.96 19.72 Alberto Culver 42.95 -3.27 of Dec. 31, 2002.

20 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Polo Ralph Lauren Profits Surge 31.5%

Continued from page one on increasing full-price sell-through, improving presen- “We believe that with the successes that we’ve had tation and gaining market share. year to date, through the two quarters, which has been “We will use the back half of the year to accelerate beyond our own expectations, that we can push harder reduction of off-price across all wholesale brands and in a variety of initiatives to help us long term,’’ he said in we feel we will end the year with the right and ongoing an interview. “We’ll be investing additional capital in ratio of full to off-price,” Farah said during the call. growth initiatives.” Despite the stronger than expected second-quarter Among the initiatives is an investment in the compa- results, the company kept its earnings per share outlook ny’s European operations, such as capital spending for a for the fiscal 2006 at $2.85 to $2.92. luxury showroom to follow the success of the Milan Jennifer Black, an analyst at the firm bearing her name, store, as well as to help elevate the brand further. said in a research note Friday, “In our view, Polo Ralph “Over the past few years, our sales have doubled and Lauren is well positioned. The company has extremely our profits have more than doubled,’’ Ralph Lauren, strong brand equity and timeless classic styling, which has chairman and chief executive officer, said in a state- enabled it to post strong performances against myriad ment. “Our focus on building new brands, such as Rugby, challenging economic and retail specific factors. and luxury accessories, expanding our retail and “In our view, it is these attributes that will keep the extending our international business has proven to be company’s product in high demand from retailers even the right investment for our company.” as consolidation in the industry takes effect,’’ the The designer and company founder said Polo Ralph research note said. “It is also important to note that Polo Lauren continues to solidify its “leadership position as has already exited May and Federated’s underperform- the largest luxury apparel company in the world.” ing doors, so closures of those locations should not The quarterly numbers sent shares of Polo up 5.1 per- impact the company’s financial performance.” cent to close at $54.80 Friday on the New York Stock Regarding the holiday shopping season, Farah said Exchange. In intraday trading, shares of Polo rose as the company has the right merchandise mix. “We’re high as $54.99, hitting a new 52-week high as 1.7 million planning for a pretty good holiday season. One of our shares changed hands, or almost twice the three-month Roger Farah said the strategies is to push harder for key items in gift giv- average of 944,274 shares. firm will be investing ing...For holiday, we expect to see more gift buyers than For the three months ended Oct. 1, net income was additional capital in full collection buyers, so our stores and wholesale part- $104.2 million, or 97 cents a diluted share, compared growth initiatives. ners will be much more focused on gift giving.” with $79.3 million, or 77 cents, in the year-ago quarter. On the conference call Farah spotlighted the increase Total revenues rose to $1.03 billion from $895.6 million store sales rose 6.2 percent, which reflected a 3.6 per- in Polo’s men’s wear sales. He told WWD that the last year. The revenue gain included a 15.8 percent spike cent rise in comps at Ralph Lauren stores, 7.6 percent in strength in sales was because of a turnaround in the in sales to $964.7 million from $833.5 million, which its factory stores and 2.4 percent at Club Monaco stores. men’s wear market, which caught everyone’s attention included an increase of 14.9 percent in wholesale sales, Ralph Lauren Media revenues, which includes its since it followed a prolonged period of lackluster sales. to $577.6 million from $502.6 million, and a 17 percent dot-com business, surged 52 percent for the quarter, “Women’s also saw strong sell-throughs, with Lauren rise in retail sales, to $387.2 million from $330.9 million. driven by categories ranging from Lauren to the firm’s terrific for fall. I think [Lauren] gained market share,” Big Pony products. The balance of the income gain in the Farah said. Our focus on building new quarter represented an 0.8 percent rise in licensing Meanwhile, the women’s business in Black Label and income to $62.6 million from $62.1 million. Collection, at wholesale and retail, has been strong. brands,“ such as Rugby, and luxury In the six months, net income climbed 68.4 percent to With the Lauren brand, the company spent the past 18 $154.9 million, or $1.46 a diluted share, compared with months profiling every one of its doors for the brand so accessories, expanding our retail $92 million, or 89 cents, last year. Total revenues jumped it could fine-tune distribution this fall. Sell-throughs 18.5 percent to $1.78 billion from $1.5 billion, which improved as a result. and extending our international included a 20 percent increase in overall sales, to $1.66 “The other thing that’s been successful is Lauren’s billion from $1.38 billion. active line,’’ Farah said. “While in [fewer] doors, it is business has proven to be the right The company said wholesale sales rose 23.4 percent, expanding very successfully. We’ve got misses, special to $914.8 million from $741.6 million, while retail sales sizes and active all working at the same time.” investment for our company. were up 16.2 percent, to $744.6 million from $641 million. Among its different business segments during quar- ” Licensing royalties increased 0.8 percent, to $120 mil- ter, no performance matched the 52 percent growth rate — Ralph Lauren lion from $119.1 million. of Ralph Lauren Media. “We’re obviously very pleased with the first-half “Ralph Lauren Media is about convenience,’’ Farah Earnings per share for the quarter beat Wall Street ana- results,’’ Farah said during a conference call. “It represents said. “We’re finding that the existing customer can shop lyst estimates by 7 cents. outstanding performance, driven by great product and ter- at 10 p.m. and from home. It [also] gives us new cus- In the wholesale business, the increase came prima- rific execution, which [combined] delivered strong profit tomers who don’t have a store near them. The Web site rily from gains in men’s wear, children’s wear and the margins. What makes it even more exciting is that our offers the widest assortment possible, with product cate- company’s European business. Also included were strategies and results are working across all segments.” gories that you would not normally find in our stores. We results from its footwear licensee business, Ralph Farah said the gains were the culmination of a strat- also sell so well [through polo.com] because we have a Lauren Footwear Co. Inc. At retail, total company same- egy implemented over the last several years that focused high level of service.”

her before: “She was completely a gracious he was instantly guest,” said Jacqui Getty. surrounded by Fashion Scoops reporters hoping PEARLS OF JADE: Jade Jagger blew into New York for a sound byte. COSTUME BALL: Perhaps Hedi Slimane was to host a luncheon at the New York Garrard Turns out, channeling a Munster when he decided to come headquarters in SoHo on Tuesday. While Claire Timberlake was as is, accompanying pal Liz Goldwyn (in a cute Bernard, Zani Gugelmann and Petrina Kashoggi more than willing antique burlesque costume of a tomato) to nibbled on blini with caviar and lobster salad, to speak. Jacqui and Peter Getty’s Jagger showed off her latest obsession: pearls. In “I never really annual bash Monday night. her first collection working with these undersea thought I would He was, after all, the only treasures for the company, she incorporated a be in fashion, not one to skip the Halloween mélange of freshwater, cultured, natural baroque really,” he said. drag at what’s become the and Tahitian pearls with colored stones on pastel “But things have a hottest ticket every Oct. 31 strands. Jagger has just relocated from Ibiza to way of coming out — even on a school night. London full-time. “I’m happy to be back,” she of nowhere.” And, in part, it’s because of said. While she’s on her whirlwind U.S. trip He admitted TY PHOTOS BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; TIMBERLAKE BY KEVIN SMITH TIMBERLAKE BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; TY PHOTOS BY all the effort put into the (today she is in Houston), her two daughters, that he’s still R PA fancy dress. “I mean, I’ve Assisi and Amba, stayed behind, ensconced in learning the Justin Timberlake shows been contemplating my their proper British schools. business, paying off his new line, William costume for a week now,” more attention to Rast, at Bloomingdale’s. enthused Heather Graham. TALKING JUSTIN: Bloomingdale’s public relations detail in clothing Those who also obliged in Nicole Richie, Rachel Zoe Rosenszweig and an person made it clear that Justin Timberlake’s design, but mostly he doesn’t have to do too costume were Demi Moore uncostumed Hedi Slimane. appearance at the 59th Street store on Tuesday much of the serious stuff. and Ashton Kutcher, Kirsten Eisner, Sean Lennon and a very sexy Eva Mendes evening was to celebrate the launch of his new “I feel kind of bad for Trace; he has to deal Dunst and Jake Gyllenhaal, as a cop. So, too, Jacqui’s family, Sofia Coppola, clothing line, William Rast. He wasn’t doing with all the business stuff,” he said, looking at Nicole Richie with Rachel Jason Schwartzman and Roman Coppola. The interviews. But when Timberlake arrived, the racks of jeans, T-shirts and jackets from Zoe Rosenszweig, Rose surprise guest, however, was Paris Hilton. Hilton, straight from his surprise performance with the the new collection. “I just get to sit back and McGowan, Ione Skye, dressed in little more than lacy bra and panties, Black Eyed Peas at Madison Square Garden, design clothes that I like, which is really fun.” Anthony Kiedis, China Chow, and fluffy pink bunny ears and tail, turned out with his friends-business partners Trace Ayala Next up, Timberlake said he will launch a Paris Hilton Johnny Knoxville, Lisa to be a surprise for the hostess, who’d never met and Danny Guez, as well as Timberlake’s mother, new album, due to hit stores next year.

22 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Hosts Symposium, Congress Votes to End Subsidy Program Releases Economic Studies By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — The House and Senate passed By Kristi Ellis ties and the national economy as budget packages Thursday that would eliminate a a whole. Global Insight’s study, ti- cotton subsidy program ruled illegal by the World WASHINGTON — Wal-Mart tled “The Economic Impact of Trade Organization. Stores Inc., in a move to shore Wal-Mart,” painted the company In the House, the budget committee also voted to up its image, attempted to an- in the most favorable light. repeal another law deemed illegal by the WTO be- swer its critics Friday with the Focusing on Wal-Mart’s con- cause it compensates U.S. companies hurt by under- release of several economic tribution to lower consumer valued imports dumped in the domestic market. studies, highlighting the impact prices, Global Insight concluded The Senate and House legislation will now go the retail giant has on prices, that the expansion of Wal-Mart, to a joint conference committee. jobs and wages. from 1985 through 2004, led to The Senate approved a broad package to slash Maintaining it is seeking more the cumulative decline of 9.1 $35 billion from the federal budget over the next “transparency” and balanced percent in food-at-home prices; five years by cutting spending programs such as Cotton growing face the dropping of a key subsidy program. coverage, Wal-Mart held a tightly a 4.2 percent decline in com- agriculture supports, prescription drugs and stu- controlled symposium here at modities prices; and a 3.1 per- dent loans. It would also eliminate so-called Step 2 trade rules. the J.W. Marriott Hotel and recent decline in overall consumer payments by mid-2006 that aid cotton farmers, tex- “There was a lot of sympathy from members to leased nine independent eco- prices as measured by the tile mills and exporters, which stand to lose mil- continue the program, but they are in the minority nomic studies — some of which Consumer Price Index, a federal lions of dollars in subsidies. Payments to the sec- in the House and Senate,” said Neal Gillen, execu- revealed negative findings — government gauge of inflation. tor under the program totaled $2.4 billion between tive vice president and general counsel of the from academics and economists. This impact, according to the 1995 and 2004, according to the Environmental American Cotton Shippers’ Association. “They un- Critics accuse Wal-Mart of de- economic research firm, amount- Working Group, a consumer advocacy group op- derstand the administration’s attempts to comply pressing retail prices and wages ed to $263 billion in savings — the posing agriculture subsidies, based on Department with the WTO ruling.” and driving U.S. jobs overseas. equivalent of $2,329 per house- of Agriculture figures. The House Budget Committee voted to approve To bring their point home, the hold — to the consumer by 2004. The move by Congress stems from a WTO case its broad budget-savings package that contains the United Food and Commercial Global Insight also concluded brought by Brazil in September 2002, which it same provision to eliminate the Step 2 payments Workers Union and its the company created 210,000 net eventually won, alleging U.S. cotton subsidies by Aug. 1, along with repealing the trade law WakeUpWalMart.com organiza- new jobs by 2004, adding it had depressed global cotton prices and were illegal. known as the Byrd Amendment. The repeal is ex- tion staged a small protest in front “not found evidence that Wal- Brazil filed a request in October for authoriza- pected to generate opposition in Congress. Shortly of the hotel Friday and announced Mart pays below market wages.” tion to retaliate with more than $1 billion in after the WTO found the subsidies to be illegal, 70 it was launching a new group — There was evidence, howev- punitive sanctions against the U.S. because of its senators sent a letter to President Bush opposing Wal-Mart Workers of America — er, that Wal-Mart negatively im- failure to respond by Sept. 21 to the panel’s find- the ruling and asking that the issue be addressed and a Web site to assist workers in pacts employment in certain ings that U.S. cotton subsidies breached global as part of the Doha Round of global trade talks. protecting their rights. sectors when it opens a store. The groups claim Wal-Mart In its analysis of the company’s exploits its workers, discrimi- impact on counties, the research nates against female employees firm revealed Wal-Mart affects and breaks child labor laws. the structure of county-level re- Job Growth Less Than Expected Wal-Mart has denied such tail employment. When Wal-Mart claims and went on the offen- opens a 150 to 350 person store in By Evan Clark Katrina continued to skew the 218,500. Textile product mills sive and defensive Friday at the a county, retail employment overall figures, but the declines added 300 positions to employ symposium, which attracted “tends” to increase by 137 jobs WASHINGTON — Still absorbing in retail employment might 179,600. about 75 economists, academics over the short term and levels off the shock of a devastating hurri- point to some economic soften- “The moderation of job and and journalists. to a 97 job increase over the cane season, U.S. employers ing, JPMorgan Chase economist production losses this year may The nine studies revealed a longer term, although it leads to a boosted payrolls by 56,000 jobs James Glassman said. be the result of administration wide range of findings that were net job decline in apparel and ac- last month, about half the num- “Consumer spending is going actions to slow the glut of im- inconsistent with one another in cessories stores of five jobs, a de- ber anticipated by economists. to be very flat in the fourth ports from China and uncertain- some areas. cline of 32 jobs in food stores and The unemployment rate quarter overall,” he said. “It’s a ties over future trade and other “We, for a long time now, have a decline of 30 manufacturing inched down to 5 percent from little hard to figure what’s going actions,” said McMillion. seen a number of studies that jobs, the report revealed. 5.1 percent in September, the on. You’re looking at the foot- Since December 1994, the purport to be an economic look at David Neumark, a senior fel- Labor Department said. print of Hurricane Katrina.” textile and apparel industry has our company,” said Bob McAdam, low at the Public Policy Institute Despite reports from retailers Domestic apparel and textile lost 58.3 percent of its work- vice president of corporate af- of California, and two econo- last week showing high energy producers continued to shed force, or 907,900 jobs, he noted. fairs at Wal-Mart, in an interview. mists, studied Wal-Mart’s impact prices did not derail the con- jobs in October, though the pace “Those jobs are moving over- “Many of them are fairly narrow on local labor markets and sur- sumer and that October sales has lessened compared with a seas and nothing’s stopping it,” in their scope, look only at specif- mised that Wal-Mart lowers re- were solid, stores cut their pay- few years ago, Charles said Standard & Poor’s chief ic data, or start with a bias, tail employment and total payrolls during the month. Depart- McMillion, president and chief economist David Wyss. “The frankly. We decided it was time to rolls per person. ment stores slashed 18,100 jobs in economist of MBG Information cost of employment overseas is do this in the most holistic fash- “The evidence is, on balance, October, reducing employment to Services, said in a report. just so much lower and those ion we could and try to get a real- more consistent with the claims of 1.6 million, while apparel and ac- Apparel producers cut 3,400 are not generally high-skill jobs. ly good picture and do it with as critics of Wal-Mart, although ques- cessories stores eliminated 3,300 jobs for total employment of You can hire someone in China much integrity and honesty as we tions remain,” the report stated. positions to employ 1.4 million. 250,500, while textile mills re- to do the same work for a quar- could possibly muster.” In the South, which has the The impact of Hurricane duced payrolls by 1,100 to ter of the price.” While McAdam acknowl- highest concentration of Wal- edged the unfavorable studies, Mart stores, there was a more he stressed that the methodolo- overall adverse effect on retail Obituary gies used in all of the studies is employment, total employment open for debate. and total payrolls per person. “There are studies presented Emek Basker, assistant profes- Kleinfeld Bridal Partner Marvin Goldstein, 70 this afternoon which have some sor of economics at the University items that are in some ways con- of Missouri, who holds a Ph.D. in NEW YORK — Marvin J. Goldstein, 70, general Kleinfeld Bridal. trary to this [Global Insight’s] economics from the Massachusetts counsel, investor and partner in the renowned He served as personal attorney for Rothstein study and in some ways certainly Institute of Technology, suggested Kleinfeld Bridal Corp. died Nov. 2 at Greenwich and Mara Urshel, president of Kleinfeld, for more what people would consider nega- in her paper that the growth of Hospital in Greenwich, Conn. than 20 years. tive,” he said. “Each of these stud- retail chains, particularly Wal- He died of unknown causes, according to his “He was the kind of guy who if you called him ies, I would argue, has a challenge Mart, is partly responsible for daughter, Aimee Goldstein Beldock. with questions at one, two or three in the morn- in them — something they looked the growth in imports and ulti- Up until the time of his death, Goldstein was in ing, he’d take the call as if it were nine in the at — maybe they compared apples mately the shift of U.S. manufac- private practice and practiced corporate and se- morning,” Rothstein said. “He was a corporate and oranges versus looking holis- turing jobs offshore. curities law. lawyer but he became part of everybody’s family.” tically the way Global Insight did. Basker cited a Wall Street Earlier in his career, he worked with well- “He was an absolutely brilliant devoted attor- This is such a healthy discussion Journal article in the study, known apparel companies. Goldstein helped or- ney,” Beldock said. “Every memory revolves and one would hope that from this which stated that Wal-Mart ac- chestrate the purchase of Kleinfeld Bridal from around that, and he was a wonderful father.” we could come up with what the counted for approximately $18 Gordon Brothers Capital of Boston in 1999. Born in Brooklyn, he graduated from New York standards are…and from that we billion in goods imported from Goldstein represented Ralph Lauren, when he University. From 1959 until 1965, he served in the can have an honest debate about China in 2004 and is responsible was just starting out in business, and also XMI, a U.S. Army. His first job was working for an attor- what the role is that we play.” for approximately 10 percent of manufacturer of neckties and shirts, his daugh- ney, Miles Rubin, who was partners with Carl The retailer hired Global U.S. imports from China. ter said. Rosen of Puritan Fashions. Insight, a reputable economic re- “We tell a story that would He and Wayne Rogers, the former “MASH” He is survived by his wife, Linda Simonton search, analysis and forecasting suggest the rise of chains leads actor who is now chairman of Kleinfeld, negoti- Goldstein; his daughter; and his son, William company, to conduct a long-term to more imports and to fewer ated with Gordon Bros. for more than a year be- Garnett Simonton Goldstein. A private memorial study on the economic impact manufacturing jobs in the U.S.,” fore settling on a deal in July of 1999, said service will be held today. Wal-Mart has on local communi- Basker said in an interview. Ronald Rothstein, co-chief executive officer of — Cate T. Corcoran

24 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM

Tom Evelyn and Ford William Stars Hold Key to the Cure Lauder NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue has been stepping out with high-profile and frequent special events for a year and now the activities have accelerated. The retailer kicked off the annual Key for the Cure campaign last month benefiting the Entertainment Industry Foundation’s

Women’s Cancer Research Fund. KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY On Oct. 28, Saks hosted an English afternoon tea to celebrate an exhibit of Prince Saks vice chairman Steve Sadove with wife Karen Charles’ watercolor landscapes, and spotlight Sadove, Debi Mazar and Saks’ Terron Schaefer. its new HTwo restaurant/cafe on the second Ford, Lauder Tatum floor. Saks is selling signed lithographs of the O’Neal royal paintings, to benefit the Prince of Wales’ Charitable Foundation, and has been on a restaurant rollout, in the past couple of weeks Light Up Saks opening Snacks on the fifth floor and Chocolate Cafe on eight, selling Charbonnel et NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue and Estée Lauder took Tom Ford Walker from the U.K. out for a spin Thursday night — with record-breaking results. For the Key to the Cure event Oct. 26, Saks More than 1,000 consumers packed into Saks Fifth Avenue’s transformed its third floor into a dining hall seat- Manhattan flagship to meet the designer and see his new Tom ing 200, with music, dancing and a live auction. Ford Estée Lauder Amber Nude collection. Ford, who signed a “Here we are on the third floor with beauty deal with the Lauder brand in April, was said to have absolutely nothing to buy — yet,” said Pamela broken the store’s existing attendance records for a personal ap- Fiore, editor in chief of Town & Country, as pearance with his event. Sources estimated more than $30,000 she readied the crowd for the live auction. worth of the collection was sold during the event. “Thank you for keeping this great cause top of “I love meeting consumers — it’s great to see their enthusi- Fred Wilson mind and close to your hearts.” asm,” Ford said after finishing the signing. The line eventually Helen and Patricia Fiore hosted the evening along with Saks had to be cut off, as Saks sold out of four of the 13 limited-edi- Hunt Clarkson chief executive officer Fred Wilson, who dis- tion products — the eye gloss, face gloss, bronzer and lip polish closed that Saks had raised more than $20 million in the seven years that it has been at the forefront for (Lauder execs promised to hand-deliver more in time for week- the cause. This year’s campaign alone, he added, would raise $4 million to $5 million. end selling). “I’ve heard of “It’s a very focused effort,” Wilson said, and also Saks’ biggest fund-raising effort. Five percent of all things that go in and out, sales last Friday and Saturday at Saks stores and the Saks Web site, and 2 percent of Off 5th sales on the BEAUTY BEAT but this collection really same days were donated to the cause. Also, $33 of the $35 price of the glittery T-shirt created by Diane did,” added Thia Breen, von Furstenberg for the cause was donated. It’s been a sellout, according to Saks. president, Americas, for Estée Lauder. Among the stars that attended Key to the Cure were Helen Hunt, Tatum O’Neal, Debi Mazar, Ally Sheedy Quipped John Demsey, global president for the Estée and Patricia Clarkson, along with Mark Badgley, James Mischka and Diane von Furstenberg. Also among Lauder and MAC Cosmetics brands, a few minutes later: the crowd were Carmen; Kelly Chapman Meyer, co-founder of Women’s Cancer Research Fund, and Jaime “Thia’s in the back with her calculator now.” and Steve Tisch, who are also activists in the cause. Chapman Meyer said the support would help the fund’s The first collection, a reinterpretation of Lauder’s original biomarker project, which is working to develop a blood test to help detect breast cancer early. gold fluted cosmetics and gold packaging, included a fragrance, — David Moin Youth Dew Amber Nude and color cosmetics. One of the hottest items, however, was a $550 gold minaudière with lip polish and Tea time with Saks face powder, toted Thursday night by Evelyn Lauder, Aerin president Andrew Lauder, Carolyn Murphy and Maggie Rizer, among others. Jennings, seated with And Ford is not resting on his laurels: He is now putting Ira Neimark. the finishing touches on Azurée, his spring collection for the Estée Lauder brand, which is his play on Lauder’s iconic “Estée blue” packaging. He also plans to be finished with the first installment of his freestanding Tom Ford collection by Christmas; the whole collection is due in early fall 2006. — Julie Naughton Marionnaud Investigated PARIS — Marionnaud Parfumeries is in hot water — again. The French perfumery chain is undergoing a preliminary ju- dicial inquiry into claims it sold products that had been des- tined for use as in-store testers. A court spokeswoman said an inquiry was opened in 2004 when 3,600 items were seized in a Marionnaud storage facility. The inquiry’s outcome is expected by mid-December. Former executives at the chain, which was acquired by Hutchison Whampoa’s A.S. Watson division earlier this year, are already facing legal proceedings over er- rors in its accounts reported in 2002 to 2003. A Marionnaud spokeswoman declined comment Friday. PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

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26 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 Election ’05: Fashion’s

By WWD Staff NEW YORK — Voters in this largest U.S. city will choose between Mayor Michael Bloomberg and challenger Fernando Ferrer in the Tuesday election, and who- ever occupies City Hall will face issues of vital interest to the fashion industry. A WWD survey of top executives suggests that creating an environment to help New York retailing flourish, keeping some manufacturing base, furthering a declining crime rate, putting a lid on property taxes and boosting the overall quality of life should be high on any may- oral priority list. One of the political realities is the di- minished clout of the industry, as the center of the apparel universe has shifted on a global scale. The 2001 contest in which Bloomberg, the Republican self- made billionaire, defeated Democrat Mark Green may have been a turning point of sorts. It was overshadowed by the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks and marked the first time that Seventh Avenue played little or no role in choosing New York’s chief executive. The city’s mayors have a history with the fashion industry and retailing. As the industry matured and became a commercial force in the Fifties and Sixties, political fund-raising flourished. Seventh Avenue became closely aligned with the Democratic Party and successful candidates such as Robert Wagner and Ed Koch. John Lindsay created a special garment industry liaison, and the FCBID was established during the administration of David Dinkins. Rudolph Giuliani had close ties to the fashion crowd. Nicole Miller ceo Bud Mayor Michael Bloomberg greets people Konheim became a major fund-raiser, outside of his new Chinatown election office. and Giuliani started a “Made in New BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY MARIO TAMA/GETTY IMAGES; FERRER BY BRYAN SMITH-POOL/GETTY IMAGES BRYAN IMAGES; FERRER BY MARIO TAMA/GETTY PHOTO BY BLOOMBERG York” campaign to try to boost apparel manufacturing in the city. He helped se- Bloomberg has again self-financed his SUPPORTING THE INDUSTRY of the Garment District to allow for more cure Bryant Park as home for New York campaign and has spent at least $66 mil- Konheim said he is a Bloomberg support- residential and nonmanufacturing build- Fashion Week by smoothing out the per- lion as of Oct. 27, according to the city’s er and would like to see the mayor set up ings that follow the needs and changes in mit process and convincing the Bryant Campaign Finance Board. In 2001, he an agency devoted to the fashion indus- the neighborhood. Park Restoration Committee to allow the spent a record $74 million on the cam- try’s needs and concerns. Barbara Randall, executive director tents to be constructed. paign. Ferrer, the former Bronx Borough “The fashion industry is at a cross- of the FCBID, said the district is operat- Giuliani referred to the fashion indus- president who unsuccessfully sought the roads and is having the manufacturing ing under zoning regulations put in place try as part of the city’s “heart and soul” nomination four years ago, has spent base disappear as the showbiz side in 1987 that require 50 percent of build- in his first-term inaugural address in less than $8 million and trails grows,” he said. “Between the fashion ings on side streets to be preserved for January 1995. Bloomberg in the polls. The latest New shows and the trade shows, New York production facilities. The zoning was The FCBID was created to help meet York Times/CBS survey shows has become a world fashion capital.” part of an effort by city officials and unions to keep businesses and jobs in the area. However, Randall said the zoning It’s now too late to think about restoring the past, but it would be has done little to stem loss of jobs and is “ hindering further development. productive to understand what the importance of New York is to the fashion “Production in this city has been de- creasing for 30 years,” Randall said. “The business and invest in it. space that is affected is far in excess of ” — Bud Konheim, Nicole Miller the need.” Randall said after 15 years of little ac- demands for cleaner and safer streets, Bloomberg with about 52 percent and Konheim noted how the city’s sewing tivity, the city has begun enforcing the but the dynamic of the industry contin- Ferrer at 29 percent. labor force has gone from 400,000 jobs to zoning regulations, issuing violations to ued to evolve. Consolidation of the retail Bloomberg, a former Wall Street trad- fewer than 30,000. “It’s now too late to owners building new-use facilities in and wholesale sectors resulted in the er who made a fortune with his name- think about restoring the past, but it areas zoned for production. fashion industry occupying and employ- sake media and information services would be productive to understand what “If you really did enforcement, you’d ing less than 50 percent of the Garment company, Bloomberg LP, has focused on the importance of New York is to the have 50 percent of buildings in the District by the turn of the century. overhauling public education, crime and fashion business and invest in it.” Garment District empty,” she said. Fashion industry employment in the security and economic redevelopment. Stan Herman, president of the Having discussions with City Hall and 10018 zip code totaled 25,384 in 2004, or He gets high marks from many industry Council of Fashion Designers of union officials about changing the zoning 28.9 percent of total employment in the executives, though his administration America, characterized Bloomberg as “a regulations is a priority for FCBID. area. Just four years before, industry em- may have focused less on the fashion friend to our industry.” Abe Chehebar, chairman and ceo of ployment was 36,925 and accounted for community compared with some of his “He understands where our industry Accessory Network Group, who is one of 40.6 percent of jobs in the district. predecessors. is going and where the growth is,” the few industry executives to have given Total fashion industry employment for Bloomberg declined requests for an Herman said. “It’s not necessarily in money to Ferrer with a $4,950 contribution, the five boroughs of New York — includ- interview. And Ferrer, who in his cam- manufacturing jobs. It’s about polishing said: “Bloomberg has been somewhat neu- ing textile and apparel manufacturing paign has paid little or no attention to the image of the industry, as well as mak- tral toward the fashion industry. I believe and apparel wholesaling — stood at the industry, did not respond to inter- ing the city a fashion destination for the there is more that he can do to make New 68,241 in 2004, a decline of more than 38 view requests. world. He is approaching our industry Yo r k the fashion capital of the world.” percent from the 111,029 reported in However, the WWD survey of about 20 the way he approaches all businesses.” Chehebar wants to see incentives 2000, according to New York State Labor executives pinpointed these key areas of Herman said he hopes Bloomberg will given to New York-based manufacturers Department statistics. interest: support proposed changes in the zoning that employ New Yorkers. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 27 WWD.COM s Message for City Hall

relation to other cities, there’s the same Fernando Ferrer with DNC problem. In terms of helping retailing in chairman Howard Dean and the city, however, the high price of real es- Councilman Bill Perkins at a tate is wiping out the specialty stores.” City College rally. Danskin ceo Carol Hochman said Bloomberg has done a lot for the city. “Manhattan has become safer, and more financially viable, and people want to come here now. It has become a better place to do business,” she said. Hochman noted that she would like to see lower sales tax in the city to spur more shopping, adding, “Anything done to help get rid of sales tax is a good thing.” Josie Natori, ceo of Natori Co., said Bloomberg “has done a fantastic job for New York.” She cited Bloomberg’s record includes “improving the quality of life in the city, thus increasing the number of visitors and shoppers.” Natori said the main factor in helping the retailing sector in New York is the ability to “keep New York City the center of the world for business.” QUALITY OF LIFE Giuliani made “quality of life” a major issue when he became mayor, with a focus on a statistics-driven battle against crime, and ridding the streets of panhan- dlers and squeegeemen, who became a symbol of New York’s perceived decline. Bloomberg has tried to follow that same path and has been credited with keeping the city vibrant. But there are a variety of lifestyle issues on people’s minds. Graziano, for example, said even though Bloomberg has focused on education, there isn’t enough of a skilled workforce. “Sometimes I receive résumés over e- mail and the e-mail address is something like hotgirl2005,” he said. “Maybe I don’t get this because there’s a generation gap, but how do they expect me to respond to that? And then I interview many candi- Robert Burke, senior vice president of sire to enhance retailing in the city. Bloomberg has boosted the confidence of dates and they can’t even write two words. fashion and public relations for Bergdorf There is concern that high property taxes those in the fashion industry, he thinks Children need to be more aspirational.’’ Goodman, said, “I think the candidate are having a negative impact. Bloomberg is a proponent of overdevel- Janet Goldman, owner and ceo of who is better for the industry is clearly Ron Klein, chairman and ceo of the opment. Fragments, said the biggest positive Bloomberg. Besides being a good politi- Macy’s East, said there are several ways “Ikea, Wal-Mart and other big-box trend she has noticed during cian, he is an excellent businessman.” the next mayor can enhance the climate stores dilute the cachet of New York City Bloomberg’s tenure is the growing per- However, Burke said, “The support for for retailers. shopping,” he said. “Small boutiques add ception of the city as being a safe place. the fashion industry could be better. The “This city needs to reduce or eliminate character and they’re a great way to be One issue she wishes would be ad- real future for New York is young designers the sales tax, continue to support Macy’s introduced to young talent. In my opin- dressed more aggressively by the city and we need to promote young designers.” as it has done with our Thanksgiving pa- ion, these retail concepts don’t fit into government is street vendors, especially Susan Fields, general manager of rade, our Fourth of July fireworks and our the traditional urban landscape of the those selling knockoffs. Everlast women’s at Jacques Moret, said of Bloomberg, “He is running the city as a business and it’s working. He has also Ikea, Wal-Mart and other big-box stores dilute the cachet of New York City made the city safer and more secure. “ Democrats have not given me a candi- shopping…these retail concepts don’t fit into the traditional urban date who I think would do a better job.” Fields said there isn’t too much the landscape. mayor could do to help apparel manufac- ” — Chris Gilbert, Paper Denim & Cloth turing in the city since much of it isn’t done here anymore, and she isn’t expect- Flower Show, and continue to support the city. Overall, though, as a small business “Street vendors hurt the business of ing it to start again. New York Visitor & Convention Bureau,” owner, my business has been thriving the stores nearby who are paying rent “The reality is that it’s not possible to Klein said. “The bureau has done a terrif- and I will back Bloomberg, to ensure its and paying taxes,” she said. “They take manufacture here anymore,” she said. ic job and needs to continue to do so. continued steady growth.” up the sidewalks and inhibit traffic. “We are so price-driven with everything National and international tourists have Jewelry designer R.J. Graziano said, There is a law that says that street ven- we do in this business.” flocked to New York City and have made “Bloomberg has continued to do what dors need to be 15 feet away from store- an important contribution to Macy’s.” Giuliani started in terms of making this a fronts, but it’s rarely enforced. And then TAXES AND RETAIL As far as cutting the sales tax, Klein said better city. Fifteen years ago, for exam- these street vendors are often selling Giuliani led a push to repeal the state sales when there have been moratoriums on the ple, nobody wanted to live in Hell’s knockoffs. For example, we have a Louis tax on apparel during his second term and tax, there has been a positive impact on the Kitchen or the East Village. Now all of Vuitton on our street and right around retailers cheered the move as a way to keep store’s business. “The city has to continue Manhattan has become a luxury area. It the corner there is a street vendor selling shoppers from traveling to New Jersey and to be receptive to new ideas,” he said. points out to me how alive New York is L.V. knockoffs. It’s annoying.” Connecticut to avoid the extra 8.5 percent Chris Gilbert, president of Paper and that is great for business.” Stacey Bendet, president and designer charge. But this year, the state legislature Denim & Cloth, said because of Graziano lamented the side effects of of Alice + Olivia, said of the mayor, “I re- reinstated the 4 percent state portion of the Bloomberg, doing business in New York the booming luxury economy in the city, spect him tremendously as an entrepre- tax for the revenue it generated. It did, City has never been better. however, specifically the high price of neur. He has exhibited an extraordinary however, allow the city’s 4 percent sales-tax “I do think the quality of life is defi- real estate and property taxes. penchant for getting things done. His em- exemption for clothing and apparel costing nitely improving,” Gilbert said. “I think “Our bridges are crumbling and our sub- phasis on tourism and visitors is impor- less than $110 to stay in effect. he has a proven track record and I’m ways are deteriorating,” he said. “I under- tant for the retail business. He’s also bril- Many executives want to again get rid sticking by him.” stand they need to keep real estate taxes liantly banned smoking in clubs, which of the state tax as part of an overall de- On the down side, Gilbert said while high to rebuild the infrastructure, and in has done wonders for my cashmere.” 28 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 WWD.COM Writing the Book on Alwaleed Denim, Color Lead StyleMax By Beth Wilson Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal CHICAGO — Midwest retailers were surprisingly exuberant at Bin Abdulaziz Alsaud the four-day StyleMax spring market at the Merchandise Mart here, responding to refined, embellished pieces and flirty, colorful styles. “I was expecting a lot of retail woes with gas prices so high, but that hasn’t happened,” said Susan McCullough, vice president of apparel for Merchandise Mart Properties, which runs the show. “I was surprised. Everyone’s been pretty positive.” Donald Johannesson, creative director for FDJ French Dressing, said the atmosphere here — the market ended Oct. 25 — was decidedly more upbeat than in other regions. “The mood of the buyers is up,” Johannesson said. “In the South, they’ve had a tough fall with the hurricanes.” He said this StyleMax show was one of the best for the company in the past two years, noting that it picked up about a dozen new accounts. Hot items included denim trumpet and cotton tiered skirts, along with denim and stretch twill gauchos in earth tones. Cropped cargo pants and rolled-up denim capris continued to sell well for the Canadian line. Sue Hale, co-owner of Hale’s, a specialty store in South Haven, Mich., used the market to buy immediate pieces such as asymmetric fleece jackets and fleece ponchos with appliqués from Aug 27 A.M. Inc., as well as butterfly print and circle skirts with different strips of color from Tribe for spring. Hale also ordered linen separates from Flax, a top-selling Arts Riz Khan label with her resort customers, shrugs from Willow and matte PRINCE HONDA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; KHAN STAN PHOTO BY KYLE BY SAMPERTON jersey tanks from Nomadic Traders. NEW YORK — Riz Khan estimated Alwaleed has a down-to-earth side. Carla Patton, owner of LuLu’s Unique Boutique in Omaha, en- he has interviewed about 10,000 “I’ve seen people at his table who aren’t joyed finding edgy items such as raw-edged embroidered blazers people in his journalism career at & famous,” Khan said. Of course, his royal for spring from Johnny Was and double-zip hoodies and cotton the BBC and CNN — and that billion- People highness is usually in the company of very sweaters bearing the likeness of Curious George, Superman, aire Saudi Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal rich and powerful men such as Sanford Superwoman or Batman embellished with Swarovski crystals Bin Abdulaziz Alsaud is the most fascinat- Weill, chairman of Citigroup Inc. — the prince from Raw 7. ing of them all. bailed out the troubled Citibank in 1991 with a $590 Embellished skirts and coordinating tops from Basil and Khan was so intrigued by the royal, whose $24 million cash infusion and is its biggest investor — Maude continue to be must-haves, she said, adding, “It’s a line billion fortune qualifies him as the fifth richest Richard Parsons, chief executive officer of Time we can’t keep in the store.” man in the world, that he wrote a book about his Warner Inc. and Microsoft founder Bill Gates. To satisfy more immediate needs, the retailer also ordered life, “Alwaleed: Businessman, Billionaire, Prince” “He’s connected,” Khan said in a bit of under- bohemian skirts and beaded embellished jackets and tops from (William Morrow). statement, recalling the prince’s last U.S. visit, a Lucy Paris. Khan broached the idea of doing a documentary whirlwind that included meetings with Bill The trends for spring seem to be an extension of what was on Alwaleed after meeting him at a conference in Clinton in New York, Jimmy Carter in Atlanta, and popular for fall, but with more subtle embellishment, she said. Dubai, United Arab Emirates, several years ago. lunch with George H.W. Bush and former secre- “I’m just feeling really good about the lines here,” she said. “I But Alwaleed didn’t think celluloid could do his tary of state James Baker in Houston. don’t feel like I have to run to New York. I can get it all done here.” life justice. “ ‘My life is very multifaceted,’ ’’ Khan In Saudi Arabia, Khan said Alwaleed is different Krista Kaur Meyers, who completes most of her buying in recalls the prince saying. “ ‘How do you expect to from other royals. His parents divorced when he New York and Los Angeles for her popular Chicago boutique, know my whole life? You have to travel with me. was a child and he spent much of his life living with Krista K, said it’s easier to connect with some vendors locally at Why don’t you write a book about me?’ ” his Lebanese mother in Beirut. “At school, he was StyleMax. The journalist took the bait. While his book shows torn between two countries,” Khan said. “He’s dif- Meyers placed orders for some 100 pieces from Velvet, includ- that Alwaleed has an eye for a bargain — especially ferent from the other Saudi princes because he has ing T-shirts, skirts and sweaters, as well as some wide leather when it comes to picking up distressed companies — that Lebanese blood. As a youngster, he wasn’t con- braided and studded belts from Linea Pelle to be worn on the he clearly prefers to surround himself with luxury, be nected to the wealth stream.” hip over tunics and longer tops. it a brand or a Boeing 767. The prince is the single Alwaleed made up for that through shrewd invest- Krista K also expanded its collection of maternity wear, a cat- biggest foreign investor in the U.S. economy. ing. “If a strong brand is down on its knees, he thinks egory that is posting double-digit sales increases at the Alwaleed gets fashion guidance from his daugh- that’s the time to capture it,’’ Khan said. “He risked LakeView store, she said. ter, a recent graduate of the University of New his money on Citibank. He’s like Warren Buffett. In In particular, Meyers sought out pants, shorts, skirts and Haven in Connecticut. At her urging, he bought fact, the two have become something of long-distance evening tops from Tummi and Ripe, noting that the boutique shares of Donna Karan International several years friends. They’re both buy-and-hold types.” sells a dozen more maternity lines than last year. ago, but sold his investment when Karan was ac- So loyal is the prince to his favorite brands, he quired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton be- only carries Motorola cellular phones and drinks cause the company’s wines and spirits division is Pespi, no Coke. His stake in Planet Hollywood, he in conflict with his religious beliefs. admitted, was a bad move, but he insists that his Through a $100 million investment, Alwaleed in investment in Disneyland Paris, in which he sank 1993 bought about 10 percent of Saks Fifth Avenue. around $345 million in 1994, will prove prescient. Prato Trade to Show at Unica The retailer was subsequently purchased by Alwaleed bought the George V Hotel in Paris in Birmingham, Ala.-based Profitt’s and renamed 1996 for $175 million, acquired 5 percent of the MILAN — It took a season, but textile organization Prato Trade Saks Inc. shares of News Corp. the following year and raised has decided to participate in the next edition of Unica, the “He’s very proud of Saks Fifth Avenue,” Khan an earlier investment in AOL Time Warner to $1 Italian textile supershow, set to run from Feb. 14-17. said. “He brought it to Riyadh [to the Kingdom billion in 2001 and 2002. Launched this fall to great response, Unica brought together Center] and wants to open a store in Jeddah. He Despite his understanding of U.S. business, the four of Italy’s largest textile shows under one roof. Ideabiella, may expand it further in the Middle East.” prince at times seems out of touch with U.S. cul- Ideacomo, Shirt Avenue and ModaIn all participated in the first Khan, who will host an interview program on the ture. Khan begins the book with a scene of the edition here in September. Prato Trade, the organizing body be- new Al Jazeera International network launching prince, a self-avowed news junkie, watching the hind Florence-based textile show Prato Expo, was the only hold- next year, is clearly sympathetic toward his subject, Sept. 11 attacks unfold on CNN. Alwaleed canceled out. whom he sees as a businessman first and foremost. an appearance at a high-end shopping center he Initially, exhibitors from Prato Expo didn’t want to move to “The opulence is all relative,” he said. “He’s had built in Riyadh and started thinking of a digni- Milan. But after a drop in show attendance this past season, not wasteful. He says he uses money efficiently to fied way to react. members agreed it was the best solution. Prato Expo realized it have a good life.” That good life includes a 317- Eventually, Alwaleed decided that a donation of not only would suffer by remaining a sole entity, but saw how the room palace, a desert camp outside Riyadh re- $10 million to the city of New York was appropri- other trade shows benefited from the united format. More than plete with elaborate tents and satellite TVs, and a ate. He flew to New York to deliver the check to 25,000 people attended the four-day Unica show. 283-foot yacht once owned by Donald Trump. then-mayor Rudolph Giuliani. But a line in the “Prato Expo will maintain its own image and strategy of pre- Alwaleed, a nephew of Saudi King Fahd Bin prince’s press release about the donation, urging senting products with a high content of fashion, research and in- Adbul-Aziz, makes a good case for the money-does- America to “adopt a more balanced stance to the novation designed for women’s wear and casual men’s apparel, n’t-buy-happiness school of thought. Thrice divorced Palestinian cause,” was offensive to Giuliani and with its own separate management and trademark,” Prato Trade and living in a 400,000-square-foot home, the prince he returned the gift. said in a statement. seems to be all work and no play. “He doesn’t have Alwaleed was dismayed, but he learned a les- The next edition of Unica will move from the Milan fair- much time for a private life,” Khan said. “His son of American business: the value of notoriety. grounds to the newly constructed convention center in Rho- lifestyle is very focused and regulated.” “Suddenly, everyone knew who Alwaleed was,” Pero, less than 10 miles outside the city. Milan has expanded its On most of his business trips, Alwaleed stays up the prince is quoted as saying in the book. subway line to reach the new venue. until 6 a.m. working. The prince thinks sleep is a “Giuliani did me a huge favor, actually.” — Courtney Colavita waste of time and survives on about four hours daily. — Sharon Edelson WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 29

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Knitwear Jr. Sweater Co. has the following open positions: A.B.S / Allen B. Designer - JEWELRY 1)Production Assistant FREELANCE / FULL-TIME By Allen Schwartz Exciting new position open, Well est’d., upscale fashion Jewelry Co. fast paced And room to seeks creative & exp’d. Jewelry Designer Vice President Sales / Merchandise Director to join our team. Must possess a strong grow. Must be computer lit- sense of color, & have the ability to spot &translate trends. Exp working with A.B.S, a leader in contemporary/designer clothing, erate, Photoshop, illustrator semi-precious stones/crystals necessary. has an incredible opportunity for a highly creative in- skill a plus. Must be able to Portfolio req’d. Salary commensurate w/experience. E-mail resume in confi- dividual with strong sales and merchandising skills. Do multi task, minimum ed- dence to: [email protected] This person should be able to drive sales in all prod- ucation required, associates uct divisions, and must be able to lead by example. degree.No experience All replies kept confidential. necessary full time only. Email: [email protected] 2) Technical Designer Organized Tech designer for our import cut & sew line/knits. Must be able to grade For Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. the current junior market. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT Call CLOTHES-OUT: Minimum 5 years experience. (937) 898-2975 Tommy Hilfiger Handbags and Accessories, Inc. is seeking a product development assistant/associate. Candidate should possess three years experience. Responsibilities include daily 3)Design (Technical Assistant communication with suppliers and factories, tracking/monitor- Jr Knitwear Design) ing of raw materials, samples and maintenance of fabric library. Assistant needed in Design Positive Energy, strong organizational/communication skills a must. Department duties include assisting in development Please send resumes only to: [email protected] and technical design must Designer have knowledge Of sketch- ACCESSORY PROFESSIONALS ing, specing, and basic com- *High Level Handbag Designer $$$$$ EXCITING puter c apabilities, some *Travel Bag Designer $$$ Sales $$$+Comm OPPORTUNITY! Photoshop/illustrator preferred, *Planner Walmart $$$$ Kahn-Lucas-Lancaster, Inc., a 115 yr [email protected] old childrenswear co. is seeking a dynamic, creative, & talented licensed Fast paced friendly environment. product designer to work out of its Alan Wolf NYC location. Resp from concept to Apparel Staffing, LTD design of the product. Must be Fax resumes to: A leader in the apparel field proficient in CAD. License exp preferred. 212-391-0881 Ph 212-302-0216 We offer full benefits and a great work Fax 212-302-1161 environment. Fax: 717-537-4180 Since 1971 Email: [email protected] Logistics Manager Recruitment Staffing Specialist Pvt. label mfr. seeks individual w/ 3+ years exp. for LDP business managing ASSISTANT DESIGNER Designer - Handbags all phases of logistics. Must work with Swimwear mfr. is seeking exp. asst. w/ Independently develop seasonal bag customer on compliance issues, coor- strong flat sketching skills in Adobe collections for major clients in the dinate between overseas factory and Illustrator, Freehand a plus. Highly cosmetics industry. Must be articulate, public warehouse, communicate w/ organized, detail oriented, team player. detail oriented, personable, & fashion freight forwarder & oversee billing / Fax: (212) 354-5314 savvy. E-mail resume & work sample receiving. Must have excellent com- to Tomer Tal: [email protected] puter skills & knowledge of require- Crouch & Fitzgerald, one of New York’s Asst Designer ments of major US retailers. Salary most est’d. Leather Goods & Accessory commensurate w/ exp. Great oppty for Boyswear DESIGNER growth. Fax resume: 212-643-0593 stores on Madison Ave., is having an 2Yrsexperience required. Must have “Open See” for designers who want to Leading Children’s Wear Mfr. seeks an CAD GRAPHICS/DESIGN STUDIO strong computer skills On a Mac using exp’d. Designer to develope an exciting Merchandise Manager showcase their wares during the holidays. Illustrator and Photoshop Fax resume All merchandise will be taken on con- All markets - 1 on 1 fast service new collection. Must have experience The Bell Group seeks a dynamic, 5th Avenue - Office for Lease 212 840-2155 to: 212-868-9279 Attn: EFK 1,400 sq. ft. to 2,500 sq. ft. signment. The “open see” will be on in marketing and designing a line that self-motivated Merchandise Manager Wednesday, Nov. 9th from 9 am to 4 pm. [email protected] involved character & licensed product. to join our team-oriented company. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 For further information, please contact BOOKKEEPER Sizes Infant, Toddler, and 4/7. Boy & Girl. Responsibilities include selecting, www.dumann.com Kevin Slattery at: 212-755-5888 Part-time full charge bookkeeper for Applicant must be well organized, detail marketing, pricing and promoting NYC based consulting/recruiting firm, oriented, and proficient in Photoshop specialized products. Apply online at Crouch & Fitzgerald quickbooks a must. Please submit &Illustrator. Call/Fax/E-mail all resumes www.BellGroupJobs.com For Space in Garment Center PATTERN/SAMPLES 400 Madison Ave. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast resume to [email protected] to: drosenstock@ generalsportwear.com T: 212-764-5820 x 215 / F: 212-764-5826 MERCHANDISER $60,000 Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Between 47th & 48th Sts. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 ACCESSORIES 212-880-0414 Mon-Fri. 9-7; Sat. 10-6; Sun. 11-5 CAD ARTIST PROD DEV, SOURCE, PRICE... Missy sportswear mfg seeks creative Designer to $150K Current exp in JR [email protected] U41A CAD artist for high volume, fast Search For Space In Garment Center tops, knits + wovens. Must have fash- Patterns/Samples/Beading paced design room. Must be proficient ion vision of Urban Outfitters, Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee at designing repeats, developing color MERCHANDISER WANTED www.midcomre.com Duplicates Cut & Sew Harajuku, Ella Moss, Juicy Couture, ways, creating watercolor prints and etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy for costume Jewelry company Must Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Fast & Full Service- Production constructing yarn dyes. Min 3 yrs ex- have experience in this industry or Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 perience required. Fax resume to: Designer to $95K current exp in better similar fashion industry.Must commu- Showrooms & Lofts Infant/Children’s Clothing 212-869-4437 Attn: C. Fields branded boys coordinated sportswear. nicate w/ orient on development.Must Sizes 4-7. For Saks, Lord&Taylor + better be able to spot trends; creativity is a BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Est’d. Retail Store - 2 locations in North CAD designer to $70K min 3 yrs exp. must.Must be organized, energetic and Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Proficiency on U4ia, Illust, Photoshop boutiques. Fashion vision inspired from NJ. $2M gross sales/year. Private label museums req’d. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY a team player. Send resume to ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 business. Strong corporate gift division. PRODUCTIONS req’d. Womens or mens apparel exp [email protected] Website e-commerce ready, completely All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. O.K. Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 computerized. Ready for expansion - Call Sherry 212-719-0622. DSN DIRECTOR (2) KIDSW’R HI $ Est’d impt’rs seek exp’d managers for: Merchandising Asst turnkey operation. For info, E-mail to: CUSTOMER SVCE REP $45K Seeking experienced Merchandising [email protected] Min 5 yrs Allocating exp to be right 1) Licensed playw’r boys/girls 0-7, 0-6X 2) Branded sptsw’r boys 2-20 girls 2-16 Assistant. Must be detail oriented and hand to Cust Svce Mgr w/leading inti- extremely organized. Must be able to mates co. Tremendous growth oppty! MUST HAVE ACTUAL DESIGN BKGD PATTERNS, SAMPLES, AND GOOD MANAGEMENT SKILLS. multitask. Needs knowledge of Excel, Established Garment Manufacturer Communicate w/Whse, Sales team & Word and e-mail. Please fax resume to with prime BROADWAY showroom PRODUCTIONS custs. Heavy order entry & follow up. A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. 646-277-5370 space and design facilities and Full service shop to the trade. Must be proficient w/EDI/AS400. 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 excess capacity will share with a Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. E-mail: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Office Assistant PT/FT compatible fit. Factory MGR to $100K Current exp Fine jewelry co. seeks mature office Fax to: (212)-268-6838 Design Assoc. to $40K Bi’ling in managing factory of men’s or women’s assistant. Must have general office Lectra Professional Chinese or Korean req’d. Exp on MAC, woven shirts/ blouses. Supv. 250 in N. skills including Microsoft Office. Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. Prod’n. Patternmaker/Grader w/6 years PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Illustrator, Photoshop. To design ski E. PA area. Will relo. Call 973-564-9236 Italian speaking preferred. Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light exp. in bras, underwear, sleep/lounge- High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- outerwear.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Please fax resume to: (212) 223-9335 wear. Seeking permanent/PT/freelance or E-mail: [email protected] Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Designer $100-$120K Current exp in Search- www.manhattanoffices.com opportunities. 914-582-8253 leave msg. Fashion Jewelry Designer bras. Thorough knowledge of bra con- Company seeks an inspired Designer OPERATIONS MANAGER struction, patterns, + creative design with min. 1 year exp. Applicant must Apparel and accessories distributor vision. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency be creative and able to design forward seeks an experienced team leader to Designer $125-$150K current exp in fashion jewelry trends. Must be self oversee warehouse operations, sys- better handbags. Must hang w/ Ralph motivated and able to work in a team tems, customer service, traffic and Lauren, DKNY, Michael Kors, Kenneth environment. Please send resume to: office. Able to solve ongoing issues Cole NY, Juicy Couture etc. Call 973- FAX: (212) 337-9593 relating to all aspects of the growing 564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency fast-paced business. Computer literate Graphic Designer amust. Fax resume 212-774-1855 or DESIGNER $33,000 Missy Sleepwear/Intimates $35-50K e-mail [email protected] DESIGN ASST Flats, repeats & emb. DO EVERYTHING AND LEARN Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Operations Manager [email protected] [email protected] Hot accessory company seeks Ops Mgr. DESIGNER $45,000 Responsible for providing direction and WOMENS Graphic Designers to $70K current exp coordination of critical operations ACTIVEWEAR, KNITS in Infant to 4-6X or 7-16 tweens. initiatives, including Shipping, EDI, [email protected] Illustrator, Photoshop on MAC. Compliance and Import/Export proce- Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion AGCY dures. Must have strong PC/ Technical DESIGNER $60,000 skills in MS Excel & Word, Retail SWEATERS Distribution experience and knowl- LOOKING FOR CLASSIC LOOK Junior Account Exec. edge of EDI systems, with financial/ [email protected] Luxury consulting/recruiting firm based factor experience a plus. Send resume to: in NYC is in need of an analytical agatto@ helenwelsh.com DESIGNER assistantforgrowing office. Must be Patternmaker Designer $100-$120K Direct handbag import supplier seeks self-starter. MS office skills a must current exp in bras. Thorough knowl- experienced designer for all markets. Please Submit Resume To : edge of bra construction + creative E-mail [email protected] [email protected] design vision. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2005 31

Executive Recruiter Growing executive search business serving the Luxury Watch and Jewelry industry seeks an Executive Recruiter. Cellini Inc. EXPERIENCED AGENT Assistant Planner Industry knowledge a plus. Sales Account Executive Hong Kong Manfacturer is 2(X)ist, a dynamic leader in Men’s seeking agents who have Fashion underwear seeks a highly Please forward resumes to Nationally recognized, well established sterling silver resource is seeking good connections w/ buyers motivated, detail oriented individual [email protected] enthusiastic, highly motivated, Sales Representation. Candidates should for Casualwear/Jeanswear. with 2 + years of retail planning exp, have strong relationships and contacts serving Major retail, Department, Production will be offered on strong analytical, quantitative and Mass, Specialty, T.V., Catalogue, as well as other volume users of sterling FOB or CIF term basis with communication skills a must. Re- SALES ASSISTANT/ silver jewelry. Immediate Positions available serving the South West region flexibility to work on salesman sponsible for seasonal annual plan- of the U.S. Retail buying experience a plus, excellent communication, samples. Please contact: ning and maintaining both branded & ADMINISTRATIVE analytical, organizational, and follow-up skills a must. E-mail resume to: [email protected] private label inventory. Interface with ROSETTI HANDBAGS [email protected] for brochures. Due to promotion another great oppor- production and warehouse on a daily tunity! We need an individual with exp basis. Must have advanced PC skills (1-2 yrs) as buyer or from wholesale in Excel and Word. Full medical, Fashion industry. Must be highly mo- dental benefits and 401K. Salary to tivated & extremely organized to assist Acct. Exec - Juniors Walmart Sales w/major Type accounts, diversified re- Jr. Clothing Co. seeks dedicated, profes- Eyewear Sales Production Coordinator sponsibilities include: Interacting commensurate with experience. FREELANCE sional Sales Acct. Exec for major East Eyewear design team is looking for Email resume in confidence to: w/sales, customers &production. PC Coast Jr. accts. Position works out of Assistant Needed outside sales reps in various established Rapidly growing Women’s Designer spreadsheets (Excel) & showroom [email protected] Label looking for a qualified/energetic our NY showroom. Must have strong Must have experience. Must regions. Must have sales exp and an functions. Jr. background & minimum 3 years interest in fashion. Willing to travel. candidate to oversee production. Liaison Please Email resume to: or fax 212-741-7932 between Design/Factories in NYC. Must exp. Fax/E-mail resumes: 323-375-1361 be familiar with Walmart E-mail resume: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] have 2-3 yrs exp. in the apparel industry. or fax to 646-452-5571 and their systems. Must be Some knowledge of pattern making, a keen eye for Q/C & be fluent in English familiar with the CTL process. & Chinese are a MUST. Anna Sui Please e-mail resume w/ salary req’d to: Sales Assistant Please Fax resume to: [email protected] Salesperson 212-221-1278 Perlina Handbag Co. seeks highly Fast paced Apparel Company has open- Aggressive, Energetic Individual 3-5 aggressive, exp’d Independent Sales ing for Sales Assistant/Analyst. Respon- Years Exp.- Communication Analytical/ Reps with proven Dept, Boutique and sibilities include order placements, Organizational and Follow Up Skills a must. Patternmaker Production Coord. to $55K min 2 yrs Specialty store handbag and small sales analysis and follow up, communi- Fax Resume to 212 768 2358 leather goods sales for Mid Atlantic, Full time or Freelance, must be able to exp. in production. Strong exp in gar- cation and interfacing with retailers, SALES ASSISTANT do 1st sample thru prod’n patterns. Must ment and fabric construction. Bi’lingual Licensed Apparel Co. seeking exp. New England, Canada, North East and and directly working with production Florida territories. Excellent opportunity be able to comm w/ domestic & overseas Chinese/English req’d. Call 973-564-9236 and design. Computer literacy and individual who is detail oriented, highly factories. Duties: patterns, fitting, Handbag Sales Rep organized, proficent in Excel & other awaits individuals committed to familiarity with Word, Excel, and servicing accts w/ personal sales visits. specing. Excellent Comp skills a must. Access database are a MUST. This Florida based Int’l Handbag Co w/ general computer programs. Must Fax resume: 646.349.4506 Production Sourcing MGR $175-200K exciting new line for moderate to bet- work well with others, be self motivated, E-mail: [email protected] person should be inspired, motivated Fax: (212) 563-3043 Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits and extremely detail-oriented as well as ter customer seeks Sales Representa- eager to learn the industry & able to Patternmaker to $80K current exp in and wovens. Strong relationships with be prepared for some domestic travel. tive w/ 5 yrs boutique and dept store multi task. Prior experience with Wal- lined and unlined womens jackets. factories WW that produces kidswear. Five years experience required. FAX exp. Must be self starter willing to Mart or Kmart A+. Strong in micro-dynamics or Gerber, Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. resume to 212-842-4020 Attn: Antony manage existing accounts & grow w/ Please fax resume to (212) 944-1181 or Lectra computer patterns. Long Technical knowledge of construction Jacobs. Equal Opportunity Employer. co. Many opportunities. Send resume Attn: LUCY Island city loc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy of garments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY to: [email protected] SaraMax Sales Key Acct Exec $125-$150K +++ Current exp in kidswear or kids outerwear req’d. Must hang w/ Weatherproof, Penny Preville, a leading, successful PRODUCT MANAGER Rothchild, Columbia, Northface, Pacific fine jewelry design company has posi- Men’s Specialty retailer seeking a Sales Executives Trail, etc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY tions open for enthusiastic, highly product manager w/ knowledge of organized people in the fields of: product development process from Wearealeader in the women’s and Lund Trading llc needs a strong Sales concept to approval of pre-production children’s accessories and fashion jewelry Pro to assist us in aggressively grow- SALESPERSON ACCESSORIES: • SALES samples. Must be organized, detail industry and are currently looking for ing our lines with large commercial • CUSTOMER SUPPORT accounts through face to face solicita- A licensed intimate apparel co. seeks Senior Sales Exec. 20 years experience. oriented w/ strong computer & email highly motivated Sales Executives to aggressive salesperson with experience • PRODUCTION - must have strong communication skills. Background in join our growing organization. tion of targeted commercial prospec- Connected with Majors. Looking for com- computer skills ting. Must have existing key account & accts, to sell license & other brands. pany that wants to grow their business. fabric & trim development initializing Successful candidates must possess a Fax: (212) 481-5787 or • DESIGN ASSISTANT - must be able garment development, tech pack crea- relationships. Commission based sal- Call Jordan: 609-519-1399 to render designs minimum of 3 years experience in the ary with base salary. Please fax or E-mail: [email protected] tion follow-up on design & production accessory market and be able to manage If you have a passion for jewelry, details a must. Specific exp. in slacks email all resumes to: 410-290-7921 accounts independently. Additionally, [email protected] ambitions to succeed, and a desire for and outer wear a plus. the ideal candidates must be team growth, email resume, indicating your Please fax resume with salary players, computer literate, organized, interest to: [email protected] requirements to 917-777-0510 detailed and energetic, possess a proven track record in seeking and develop- PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ing sales with mass market accounts. Regional Managers Now hiring Regional Managers through FABRIC /TRIM PURCHASING MGR Weoffer an excellent compensation -out the country. Fast growing men’s & JONES NEW YORK INTIMATES and benefits package. For immediate women’s national retailer. Exp. in sales Division of Madison Intimate Brands MAX LEATHER GROUP / consideration please fax resumes &merchandising needed. Will be re- Established Sleepwear Mfr., seeks CIPRIANI ACCESSORIES including salary history and require- sponsible for opening new stores, hiring individual expd in both wovens and ments to: 646-219-7202. & training excellent staff to drive sales knits from Asia. Responsible to work NASSAU COUNTY/ &stimulate growth & profit! Salary + with designers, overseas factories, FAR ROCKAWAY LOC. Bonus incentive. Email resume & cover mills, agents; track fabric/color/print Sales Key Account $100K +++ current letter to: [email protected] Max Leather Group/Cipriani Accessories , exp in Junior or Missy knit or woven developments, lab dip/print appvls; leading designer belt, small leather coordinate/ resolve production related tops for low end discounters market. goods & cold weather accessories co, Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency issues. Must have excellent computer seeks Purchasing Mgr for our Nassau skills, be able to communicate effec- County/Far Rockaway loc. Successful tively with overseas on a daily basis; candidate will oversee activities of be highly organized, detail-oriented Purchasing Dept. Resp will include: with 3+ yrs in Sleepwear. Excellent Tech Designer Needed benefits. Email resumes with Subject •Daily PO placemt w/ suppliers/ 2 years experience specing childrens Header: Fabric Mgr- Your Name, to: follow-up, ensure timely deliv garments, good communication skills. [email protected] •Maintain nec records of confirmed Must work on Mac using Illustrator. purchases, prices/deliveries to support Fax resume to 212-868-9279 sales/shipping needs Att: Girls Dept Product Devel/Product Mgr (2) •Provide monthly projection report * Innerwear/Daywear $60-90K •Confirm all order revisions & cancels * Teen Bed & Room Décor $60-90K •Obtain/monitor weekly open Call Laurie 212-947-3399 orders reports from suppliers Technical or e-mail [email protected] •Heavy interaction w/China vendors Assistant Tech Designer KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Successful candidate must be well- Fast growing co seeks highly motivat- orgnzd, detail oriented capable of ed indiv for Import dept w/entry level PRODUCTION $60,000 to 2 yrs exp for sweater/cut + sew div. TEXTILES working in fast-paced envir/wear variety of hats. Excel. commun skills/ ability to Duties incl. specs, lab dips, fittings, fol- DOMESTIC AND LATIN SOURCING low up. Excel, Photoshop a must. Good [email protected] work independently/use sound judgment essential. Min 5 yrs’ purchasing exp in work environment. Pls e-mail resume: [email protected] PRODUCTION $80,000 related industry w/excel computer skills MANAGER req’d. Strong supervisory exp a must. MASS MARKET EXP Compet starting sal based on bkgd/exp [email protected] coupled w/comp employee benefits pkg. TECHNICAL Pls submit resume/ cover letter w/ sal hist/req’ts as a Word doc to: DESIGNER Production Assistant [email protected] Men’s Specialty Retailer seeking a Major apparel company seeks Production technical designer who is organized, Assistant with a minimum of one year detail oriented w/ strong computer & experience working in a production email communication skills. Must department. Responsibilities include Quality Control Technician have at least 10 yrs of technical design handling POs, price tickets, care labels Est’d manufacturer seeks consultant exp. w/ a background in pattern making, and shipment follow up. Individual for quality control technician position. detailed spec & tech pack construction, must be able to multi-task and be detail Must have extensive knowledge of fit evaluation and grading. Specific exp. oriented. Must possess computer skills. men’s structured suits and dress in tailored clothing and pants a plus. Excellent benefits. pants. Overseas travel required. Salary Please fax resume & salary requirements Please Fax resume to 212.239.2766 commensurate w/ experience. Pls fax 917-777-0510 resume in confidence: 212-643-0593. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Receptionist/Office Asst Temporary Sales Asst. Est wholesale accessories co seeking A leading women’s casual sportswear Great opportunity for a Sales Assistant exp hands on indiv to act as a liaison co seeks an exp’d Office Asst / Recep- who possess a strong work ethic in one of between sales, design, overseas & traf- tionist to perform a range of basic the fastest growing divisions within our fic on a daily basis. Job Description: office support functions such as direct- corporation. Requires 2 years experience Track orders from inception to coming calls, meet & greet clientele, data in the following: customer service, sam- pletion, Follow up w/private label ac- entry and Word Processing. Will assist ple order & follow-up, catalog mailings, counts, Sample approvals, Label verifi- company Chairwoman w/daily needed etc. Competitive salary and good benefits. cation, Excel costing, Working w/print support. Occasional modeling of Fax resume & salary requirements to: &product development, Research lab sportswear clothing; not a must. Great 212-764-4342 dips & print approvals. Must have benefits and fun atmosphere. Fax strong analytical, organizational & resume: 212-354-3051 Attn: HR time mgmt skills. Must have the ability to multi-task in a busy environment. Textile Print Devel Director to $150K cur- Must be able to coordinate & resolve rent exp in supervising 3 in surface de- RETAIL FASHION sign. Laison w/ mills. Strong in color styl - production related issues. Store Mgrs/Madison Av & Wstchstr $55-65K Email resume & salary history to: ing. Large co exp req’d. Strong in Excel , Asst Store Mgr/Hi-end Fshn Base+%=$70K+ Photoshop, Illustrator. Call 973-564-9236 [email protected] FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR ES eitrdSrieMr/rdmr fCto noprtd Cotton Incor © Mark/Trademark Registered Service of Cotton Incorporated. ® TERS.

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