Gloria Sachs

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FEATURE IN MEMORIAM Gloria Sachs

2 2012 BEAUTY SYMPOSIUM

4 IN MEMORIAM RTW COLLECTIONS Trend Report, Fall/Winter 2012

6 RETAIL SYMPOSIUM With an educationGloriaGloria steeped SachsSachsnamed a member of the in the arts—a degree in fine Economic Council for the City of New York—and 7 arts from Skidmore College, according to the CFDA, SOCIAL MEDIA studies in textile design at Gloria was one of the first IN MEMORIAM Cranbrook Academy of Art, instruction in painting with women .invited to be a Fernand Léger in Paris and member of that group. 8 in architecture with Gió FRONTLINERS Ponti and Franco Albini in The past two decades Italy — Gloria Sachs’ found Gloria involved in life was one of beauty, the contemporary Chinese 9 accomplishment and richly art scene and, at the time NEW MEMBERS deserved recognition and of her death, she was honors. planning to spend a month in Shanghai where she From her start as a model hoped to help set up an for Balenciaga and Balmain exchange program between THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE in Paris, Sachs went on to fashion design students in work as a textile designer New York and China and to and a retail fashion work on the establishment Chair executive, rising to the position of fashion director at of a Fashion Group International region in Shanghai. both Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. In the late Katie Kretschmer Sadly, Gloria Sachs passed away on March 12, at her 1950s, she founded the preteen clothing company Editor / Contributing Writer home in Manhattan. She was 85 and is survived by Gloria Sachs Red Barn and in 1970 established her her daughter, Nancy Sachs; her son, Charles; two eponymous label known for luxurious sportswear and sisters and three grandchildren. Co-Chair glamorous, sporty evening looks: subtle, fluid, simply Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant cut shapes done in her beautiful, signature fabrics. A member of Fashion Group International for more than 50 years, Gloria remained active in the industry Credited as the “inventor” of Capris, the shorter pants Committee of which she was so proud. “Gloria was one of the commonly worn in Europe, which caught her visionary Stacy Lomman, Contributing Writer first female designers to influence the way women eye, she brought them to the United States where she Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer dress,” said designer Stan Herman. “She was a named them after the enchanted isle where she had perfectionist…she really loved fabric… her clothes first seen them. were beautiful. She dressed women in a very elegant FGI Liaison way.” Mitria Di Giacomo A consummate artist, throughout the years Gloria Director of Special Events & Brand Development exhibited her paintings and sculpture at New York’s Gloria Sachs will be so missed by her family, her Museum of Modern Art, Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, the friends, her colleagues, her admirers…all those Art Alliance of Philadelphia and the Art Institute of whose lives she touched with beauty, grace and style. Graphic Design Chicago. Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics With honors that include the Saks Fifth Avenue Creator –– Wendy D'Amico Award and the Woolknit Designer Award, Gloria was Creative Consultant, [email protected]

1 BEAUTY SYMPOSIUM

The era of social media continues to impact the traffic to their brands with unique business of beauty, and brands at all levels are opportunities. She heralded the testing the waters. On May 2, Margaret Hayes, arrival of the new wave of “Social president of Fashion Group International, welcomed Media Editors,” now becoming a attendees to the organization’s annual Beauty ubiquitous part of the landscape, Symposium, held at The New York Hilton Hotel. and characterized the new online Titled, “Changing Lanes: New Model. New engagement, sharing photos with Distribution. New Beauty World.” The presentation Instagram and Pinterest, for provided strategic approaches to an evolving retail example, or providing “Like- economy, consumer values and key issues facing the Gates,” for visitors, which pro- industry today, not the least of which are social vide exclusive content to those media and the impact of technology. The sold-out who “like” your Facebook page. event was sponsored by Self, The Estée Lauder Cos. These digital conversations con- Inc. and Chic.TV. tribute to a new path to what she termed “citizen journalism,” Moderator Karen Young, CEO of The Young Group, allowing readers to weigh-in on introduced panelists Laurie Black, general merchan- product picks and preferences, in dising manager and executive vice president of what is an evolving communica- From left: Caroline Pieper-Vogt, president of The Scent Marketing Institute; Laurie Black, cosmetics at Nordstrom; Mike Indursky, president tions community with a range of GMM/EVP Cosmetics, Nordstrom; Peter Lichtenthal, president, Bumble & bumble: Karen technological tools at its disposal. Young, CEO, The Young Group; Mike Indursky, president, Bliss; Jill Scalamandre, CMO, of Bliss; Peter Lichtenthal, president of Bumble and Chrysallis; Laura McEwen, VP & publisher, Self; Elaine D’Farley, beauty director, Self. bumble, and Jill Scalamandre, chief marketing officer of Chrysallis, and introduced the opening presenta- Panelist Perspectives tion on Social Beauty by Self magazine’s VP and Moderator Karen Young noted the changing technologi- Jill Scalamandre cited Strivectin as an example of publisher Laura McEwen and beauty director Elaine cal environment, saying that access to products and reinvention, as it evolved from a stretch-mark cream D’Farley, which provided an overview of the current services has increased exponentially and become more to a clinical/pharma antiaging brand. “The consumer state of digital media in the context of a community sophisticated. She noted that the era of Instagram, “I for Strivectin wanted efficacious stuff. She didn’t conversation. Can Stream,” Zipcar, Twitter and more have made the want to pay for gold stamping,” she said. “This concept of the DVD rental a dinosaur! brand is reaching a broad spectrum. It goes from The Roots of Social Beauty Ulta to QVC and Costco. It goes where the consumer “The idea of social beauty is not anything new,” said Mike Indursky said, “Not long ago, you did some great is shopping,” she said. Chrysallis, which acquired McEwen, who pointed out that the idea of sharing advertising and promotion, but now media consump- the brand in 2009, knew that “this was a brand that information among a community of women was at its tion has changed. There are flash-sale sites, social was going after the ‘Botox alternative’ audience,” roots the very nature of women’s community building media and blogs. The consumer outnumbers us and said Scalamandre, “We knew we had to get the prod- and socialization. However, in the digital age, it is has the ability to tell our story differently. While we’re uct right.” Scalamandre knew the Strivectin brand clear that social media has taken on new proportions. trying to figure this environment out, everyone else is, needed to keep the DNA of its clinical roots, but too. It’s a bunch of roulette wheels going around and with a modern look and feel. “We changed the “The age of social media is paramount and it is upon there’s no right answer. At Bliss, we have some advertising and communication…and went on to talk us,” said McEwen. D’Farley supported the premise, guidelines, including the fact that strengthening the with consumers via awareness engagement and noting that with the speed of change in the world core of your brand is most important. Make sure keeping the consumer loyal by knowing how she today, it is essential to be nimble and flexible, inspire everyone speaks in one voice to avoid distortion of your ticked. Since there are so many ways to reach her, audience engagement and give brands a way to tell message, and work the message of the brand into we found that the predominantly ‘self-made woman’ their story uniquely. “It’s a platform to write your own everything you do.” audience, who liked to read news magazines, could script,” said D’Farley, who highlighted Self’s “Drop be reached through Time magazine. It stood out 10 Challenge,” which the magazine conducted via An abundance of media outlets make it difficult to from the clutter,” said Scalamandre. She credited Facebook and Pinterest, to engage readers at various choose, added Indursky, noting that it is important to Stephen Denny’s book, Killing Giants, with providing touch points and create an authentic conversation select the means of communication that works for you. strategies to help smaller brands topple giants, stand around exercise and healthy goals. “Social media is “The world doesn’t need another shampoo, it needs up to industry Goliaths and essentially hijack the the new syndication,” she said, intimating that in a different story,” he said. “Doing things differently is consumer with an array of tactics, including events, order to get through all the clutter, brands need to be the most important. Always challenge convention,” sampling, e-mail targeting and in-store approaches. especially creative, engage in partnerships and drive he said. “With every tactic you use today, there is an online

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2 BEAUTY SYMPOSIUM ...... Moderator Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group

Featured members in this issue“Our customer wants Young, “is that having enough budget is still no to shop different ways, and it’s always changing. guarantee you’ll be doing the right thing.” Some days she wants beauty expert advice, and sometimes she wants the branded beauty advisor, or Black said, “We are kept motivated by wanting to the fragrance advisor. We’re looking at ways to keep our customer happy,” and Young noted that Event Chair change the way we offer brands on the floor. We this entails searching for the “news in the noise” to Caroline Pieper-Vogt, offer samples to improve the shopping experience find out what really works among the numerous president, The Scent and have a whole team engaged in that. The offerings available today. Marketing Institute customer also wants to shop online. This is a customer who wants to shop the store the way she and offline component. Using both effectively Lichtenthal said, “We speak differently to our wants, so we’re working to customize the helped us zero in on our consumer,” she said. clients in our salons. For example, our uptown experience,” said Black. salons offer individual color stations, and with our Peter Lichtenthal discussed the evolution of what downtown salons, the younger customers prefer a “At Bliss, we’re a high-touch business,” said started as a New York City salon in 1977, and has communal table approach. We make sure our salons Indursky, “and we’re listening to the concerns of our built on its original pillars, valuing hair styling show diversity depending on the psychographic customers. If they have an issue, we ask them to tell products and education, to become a leading force needs of the customer.” Scalamandre agreed, it to us on Facebook to keep us aware of what their in the salon world, with 97 percent of its product “Knowing and marketing to the needs of the interests are.” Lichtenthal said, “It all begins with business sold to salons. Bumble and bumble joined consumer is more important than the age group, so ‘What do we stand for?” and how we translate that to The Estée Lauder Companies in 2000 and was fully much is psychographic-related.” all channels. We’re at Sephora, Blue Mercury, Space integrated in 2006. “In 2008, when we faced a NK, Bloomingdale’s and Sephora.fr, so we’ve done a changing economy and growing social and digital lot of research about the brand and its distribution. world, we found that the consumer was increasingly –Nancy Jeffries If you’re in a channel, you have to play by that seeking more information,” Lichtenthal said. “We Contributing Editor, [email protected] channel’s rules and translate that into how to win in had 2,300 salons and we looked at the market and that channel and translate the ‘high touch’ into that decided that we broke precedent with our role as a medium.” salon and could do it again. We decided we could reach consumers by partnering with Sephora and Scalamandre noted that each channel has its role, behaving as a professional brand. Our lane-changing for example, to educate and bring awareness on moment with Sephora afforded us a network for QVC, touch and feel with consumers in the clients to locate Bb. Salons around the country and department stores, and to offer varied sizes. For enabled Sephora clients to go to the salon network, example, in specialty stores like Ulta, they offer get a card for a free blow dry, and break down barri- smaller sizes; in department stores, larger sizes. ers between salon brands and retail brands. Win in the lane you’re going to while succeeding in your Black said, “Our buying teams are always connected original lane,” said Lichtenthal. This was key for to what our customer wants and we’re looking at Bumble and bumble, which he said increased sales new brands all the time. At the same time, we’re after the Sephora launch, and now not only brings growing the existing brands, so we’re managing the products to the shelf, but the salon process to both.” Indursky concurred, “You have to have ways the clients. to work together on all the products. With Bliss, its spa, retail and spa services: We have all the parts of Customer Service the business linked up.” “The customer is changing all the time,” said Laurie Black. “We’re focused on customer-centric services Asked what keeps him up at night, Indursky and have created an inverse pyramid to address the responded, “Every day is a street fight when you’ve changing Nordstrom customer. We have the got a small business. You throw a lot of punches customer at the top of the pyramid, sales in the and you also take a lot of punches,” he said. middle and management at the bottom. Many things our customers are telling us are not in line with what Scalamandre noted the importance of deciding how our salespeople are thinking. So, we’re getting you can do more with less and choosing the right everyone in line with what our customer wants. vehicles to accomplish your goals. “The irony,” said

3 THE FASHION GROUP FOUNDATION PRESENTS FALL/WINTER 2012 LANVIN

TREND OVERVIEW

Margaret Hayes, president of The Fashion Group

International, extended greetings to a packed house ALEXANDER WANG at New York’s Time-Life Building, on Tuesday, April 10, in attendance for the popular seasonal roundup of the latest runway successes from the fashion capitals of the world. Hayes welcomed a panel of industry experts, including Cindy-Weber Cleary,

fashion director at InStyle magazine, Stephanie TURES OF THE WIND Solomon, VP and fashion director at Bloomingdale’s, RALPH LAUREN MICHAEL_KORS Sarah Brown, beauty director at Vogue, Linda Fargo, CREA SVP at Bergdorf Goodman, and Nicole Phelps, executive editor of Style.com. Hayes thanked Marylou Luther for her expert editing, script and narration of Color and Taking Cover the Trend Overview, and welcomed special guest Color tonalities, hot flashes of color clashes, color The little black dress is still big; peplums appear on moderator Stefano Tonchi, editor in chief of blocking and whites for winter, as well as oxblood, dresses and belts, and slits have become fashion’s W Magazine and creator and former editor of T: The New teal, amethyst and emerald bring jewel tones back to latest erogenous zone. Accessories is a strong York Times Style Magazine. Hayes also acknowledged the runway, with such proponents as Vera Wang, category, with Stephanie Solomon, saying, “The the support of the event’s sponsors, MAC, LIM College, Hermès and Valentino showing striking variations. accessory business is driving retail now.” Crocheted Ecco Domani Wines of Italy and Fekkai. Black stays in the picture, Luther noted, and leathers or bejeweled collars, chokers, statement necklaces, are having a moment, both as total garments or as brooches and knitted scarves secured with kilt pins In her unique, inimitable style, Marylou Luther took components with fabric or fur. are big boons in the accessory business. attendees to the runways of Milan, London, Paris and New York with a locomotive metaphor to keep There’s also a hefty dose of Militaria, with khakis, Spats and riding boots, doctor bags, colored bags, everyone on track. Fashion standouts were grouped epaulets, navy peacoats, uniform looks and chain huge fur bags, framed bags and foldovers, as well as into several categories, with Puttin’ on the Glitz the mail making their marks on the runways. “Manning decorative clutches are also strong in the accessory runaway lead. Said Luther, “Marc Jacobs tracked the Up” heralds the man’s influence in women’s wear, category. In beauty and hair, cropped bangs, à la season on the Louis Vuitton Express,” while Ralph and vice versa, with Paul Smith’s impeccably tailored Rooney Mara in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, are Lauren upped the ante with a “Downton Abbey” blazers, Donna Karan’s dandy looks, Hermès’ gauchos setting a beauty trend. Her pale skin, wine-colored interpretation, and Donna Karan traveled incognito, and Isabel Marant’s cowboy shirts. Coats made a lips and dark brown hair have been captured and making it fashionable to cover up with a little mystery. strong statement on the runways, with large, capa- interpreted on all the runways. In addition, brown cious clutch coats, flowing capes, contrasting lapels, hair rules, braids remain big and smudgy black Bejeweled and Gold-Gilded piping and belted styles, while jackets featured color, eyeliner and orange eye shadow created distinctive According to Luther, designers are creating styles for architectural shapes, blazers and kimono styles. looks on the runway. Also popular in beauty were icy the one-percenters, that is, clothing that sends a white accents for eyes, red lips and disappearing lips message of abundance, with fur-trimmed (real or There was fur on skirts and vests, scarves, shoes and that created a neutral palette for the face. faux), bejeweled and richly brocaded and vibrant bags, making it a head-to-toe statement. Goat, fox pairings. Their preoccupation with wealth and status, and coyote were among the longhaired favorites, Best bets, according to Luther, are leather, jewelling, however, is offset by options from those with a bent while sheared mink, nutria and beaver were also part gold, reflective materials, oversize looks, equestrian for discretion in dressing, offering hope and options of the mix. Fur sleeves on non-fur jackets and coats styles, mixed media, coats, color, knits, bags, that allow room for modern expression with higher were also part of the mixed-media looks, which booties, evening shoes and the military look. necklines, protective coloration, tattoo-hiding included a Mallorcan tablecloth fabric mixed with sleeves, and just-below-the-knee hemlines. Minis satins and leather. The Panelist’s Perspective and short skirts are still in vogue, but they are often worn over pants, generally narrow and high-waisted. Prints featured reality looks, stained glass, geometrics, Stefano Tonchi opened the panel discussion with a landscapes and animal prints. There were even some look at the success of Prada’s structure and prints, There’s a lot of glitz and gold, with jewelry ranging art prints by Hieronymus Bosch, and a bouquet of contradictions in the shows, important looks that from big brooches and pant cuffs, which according florals. Fabrics ranged from brocades for day and ranged from minimalist to maximum, and an overall to Prada mean bigger is better, and clutch and cuff night, blue velvet by Balmain, oxblood velvet by season that brought together richness, extravagance bag and jewelry combinations from Chanel. Jeweled Kenzo, lace overlays by Kors, gold embroidered and individuality. He asked the panelists to answer jackets from Prada, faceted jewels from Chanel, leather by Lauren and ample tweeds. Plaids from their hearts when assessing their favorite Sarah Burton’s tulle sprinkled with embroidered appeared with kilts, intarsias and bias cutting, and collections of the season. dandelions for McQueen and Don O’Neill’s goddess shearlings made a strong statement alongside nubby dresses for Theia featuring burnt sequins and crum- knits, pants, jumpsuits and three-piece suits. pled pearls show jewels squarely in the spotlight. CONTINUED ON PAGE 5

4 RTW COLLECTION ......

Stefano Tonchi, moderator, editor in From left: Nicole Phelps, executive editor, Style.com., Linda Fargo, SVP, Bergdorf Goodman, Marylou Luther chief of W Magazine and creator and Sarah Brown, beauty director, Vogue, Stephanie Solomon, VP, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s, former editor of T: The New York Cindy Weber Cleary, fashion director, InStyle magazine. Times Style Magazine.

Cindy Weber-Cleary cited Jil Sander for her we’re trying to support the young designers and “Fashion used to be an insider’s world,” said modern collection. Stephanie Solomon named we recognize that they may be creative designers, Fargo. “But it has become a huge world, much Derek Lam and Marc Jacobs in Paris, and Sarah but not necessarily the best business people, so like sports,” she said. Tonchi agreed, “Like many Brown picked Marc Jacobs in New York—particu- we try to help and support them by giving them a sports fans who are couch potatoes, there are now larly for his ideas about shape and layering. Linda chance in the market.” fashion fans searching the Internet, like Web Fargo acknowledged McQueen’s show, while potatoes,” he said jokingly. Phelps noted that Nicole Phelps, who also checked Sarah Burton for Weber-Cleary said, “Among celebrities, you have there are new retail models forming, and Weber- McQueen, mentioned Joseph Altuzarra’s collection to be really fearless to take risks, like Tilda Cleary added that she does think that women get in New York, as well as Bottega Veneta, in Milan, Swinton. Because celebrities are so scrutinized, fatigued from the abundance of fashion choices. for offering incredible Red Carpet options. they often take a safe route,” in response to the “As an editor, I need to edit and endorse certain comment that the Red Carpet can often be bor- trends. InStyle has a very grounded voice and I try In responding to Tonchi’s question about the ing. All agreed, however, that the Red Carpet still to select the trends that will resonate with our differences between the shows in the various drives sales. “People are influenced by what audience,” she said. Solomon said the editors fashion capitals, Fargo noted that the culture of celebrities wear, but, thank God, that is not the know how to edit down, for example, the innovation was alive and well in New York. “There only influence,” she said. Edwardian trend. “It is not just dressing up are a lot of veterans in New York in the industry pretty, there’s a responsibility to your readers,” who step up to mentor young designers. You really Solomon added, “As a culture of fashion, she said. don’t get that as much in Europe. Europe is a Bloomingdale’s is a theatre. The young girls shop- world of heritage. New York is supporting ping in the store today are influenced by Lady Wins from the show, according to the panelists, innovation and there is also a price variable that Gaga and Nicki Minaj. That’s what I miss in fashion. were coats and the military statement, coats as a enhances accessibility.” Look at Marc Jacobs’ show, which was wild and way to differentiate yourself, said Brown, citing Solomon, addressing fashion culture, said, “The crazy. I love that the new icons are influencing Burberry as a favorite, for an investment piece, old guard definitely affects the younger consumer, fashion. Even Madonna, at age 53, is telling girls and the new beauty take on brown hair. Brown as well as young designers. The appointment of to throw caution to the wind.” said, “Buy a box of brown hair dye. The idea of Raf Simons to a house like Dior is a badge of the brunette, very glossy and expensive, is a achievement. What really makes me excited is Does Beauty Start On The Street or On The Runway? strong trend this year.” While Solomon noted that watching designers, from Raf Simons and Proenza the accessory business is driving retail, Tonchi Schouler to Rag & Bone, and watching them grow. “Furthermore, makeup artists and hair stylists, added, “If you want to bejewel yourself, you’ll buy I see a shift happening that is changing the way like Pat Mcgrath and Guido, are becoming widely a necklace, not a coat. This is a very big trend at women are dressing today,” she said, noting that recognized for their work,” said brown. Brown W magazine.” Simons started the color-blocking concept. “This is a cited the “Rooney effect,” with cropped bangs shift in terms of fashion culture,” she said. and pale skin, as well as the new dip-dye hair looks that came from the “cool girls” on the –Nancy Jeffries Phelps noted the wealth of media outlets that are street. She noted that London’s hair salon, called Contributing Editor, [email protected] now interested in fashion. She said, “Everyone Bleach, had a strong impact on creating this look. from People, to the blogs, to The New York Times, “Makeup artists are also becoming more as well as everyone sitting on this panel, is recognized, with makeup artists like Pat McGrath interested in fashion. People are eager to discover and hairstylists, like Guido, becoming widely new talent,” she said. Brown added, “At Vogue recognized for their work,” said Brown.

5 Fashion Group International Retail Symposium ......

Sadove said a key way that Saks strives to be truly customer-centric—that is, reach her wherever she wants to be reached—is by culling data from across all channels and looking at who is shopping, and how and why. One surprise, Sadove said, is that they assumed their “diamond-level customer” was primarily shopping in-store. But the data showed that that customer was actually shopping on-line. “You have to shift your marketing,” he said. “For the marketing department, buyers and tech, it’s a transformational time for all.” Above, from left: Martine Reardon pointed to the motto of Macy’s first Marie Claire’s Nancy woman manager, coined in 1866, “Be everywhere, Cardone, Richard do everything and never fail to amaze the customer,” Dickson, president & CEO branded businesses, It was a full house on March 20th for FGI’s annual underscoring the point that as much as things The Jones Group, Inc., retail symposium and luncheon, a C-level summit change, they stay the same in retail. Macy’s also Stephen I. Sadove, CEO, co-hosted by The Robin Report to examine the studies data closely to understand where the Saks Inc., Robin Lewis, convergence of art and science at retail. Titled “The customer is shopping. “The data is a myth buster,” CEO, The Robin Report. Jobsian Era is Upon Us,” the seminar was led by she said. “She’s not just online or in-store. We are Martine Reardon, Robin Lewis, CEO of the Robin Report, who putting our focus on the ones doing both, and are chief marketing officer, Macy’s moderated panelists Martine Reardon, CMO of Macy’s; trying to transform all.” Steve Sadove, CEO of Saks Inc.; and Richard Dickson, Dickson said it’s “all about relationships. Millennials, president and CEO of branded business at The Jones Reardon said they use data to understand Gen X, Baby Boomers: They are widely different. Group, in an examination of how they are innovating preferences and the choices the customer makes on And the amount of information we have is daunting— and integrating technology and creativity to elevate line or in-store. “They used to be two very separate even paralyzing.” He said at a certain point, you just the consumer experience both online and in store. businesses, but they are now seamless.” need to jump in, and start acting on the information rather than worry about the best way. Especially In a smart flip, lunch was pushed to after the presen- As both a retailer and a wholesaler, Jones Group has because the ways to target the customer are tation, allowing attendees on a tight schedule to eat a unique perspective, said Richard Dickson. “We sell constantly changing. and run without missing the meat and potatoes. a lot of stuff,” he said. Recently, the company has Another change-up in keeping with the theme: Lewis put new focus on developing distinct brand identities So, Lewis asked, “Is the technology ahead of our introduced Yorn, a feedback tool that works with for its many businesses, shifting the emphasis away ability to use it? Are we playing a game of catch-up?” mobile devices to allow the audience to post questions from categories. “Language and messages are very Reardon believes that while the technology is moving and comments in real-time, replacing (or supplement- different across brands,” he said, pointing to the very, very quickly, it all goes back to the consumer. ing) the old index-cards-placed-on-the-tables method. example of Rachel Roy versus Easy Spirit. “Rachel “The challenge is to stay local,” she said, describing Roy sees lots of Facebook interaction with customers, direct-mail programs with thousands of variations to “Steve Jobs didn’t create it, but he helped define the new but there’s not so much with the Easy Spirit target local markets and customers. She said one of science and art of retail,” said Lewis, jumping right in to customer. On the other hand, the Easy Spirit the biggest challenges is buying the best, most the discussion, pointing out that the innovation and customer is much more likely to purchase online.” pertinent merchandise mix for each store, but still approach to retail at Apple Stores continues to lead in One customer wants a purchase to be smooth, easy enable the customer to get what she wants in sales per square foot, with an average of $6,000 per and perhaps cut a trip to the mall out of her busy whichever door she is shopping. “We use ‘search and square foot—more than Tiffany’s, to give some perspective. schedule. For the other, social interaction is a big send’ technology to help her find what she wants and driver—Facebook allows her to communicate directly complete the transaction.” “The irony,” Lewis was quick to point out, “is that with the brand but also with her peers, but a trip to the brick and mortar stores are now one-upping the the mall and the in-store experience is part of the Looking to the “art of retail” versus technology, pure-play online retailers, using the same technologies to satisfaction of the purchase. Lewis asked the panelists to address the human side enhance the in-store experience.” Now, he said, the of the equation. “Once you connect, how do you e-commerce players will have to open their own stores in Lewis then steered the conversation to research: How compel her to act?” he asked. order to compete—to add the “touchy-feely” did each of the businesses represented use research component that the digital experience lacks—and tools to analyze and understand the customer, and Reardon pointed to Macy’s Fashion Star project—the pointed to the fact that Amazon, the Goliath of Internet sell- how do they use technology connect with them and reality show in which designers vying for the title ing, is looking to open stores in the not-too-distant future. compel them to the store or site. create styles for each episode, and winning designs are available either in-store the next day—or even Lewis opened up the discussion by asking each Sadove said Saks, like Macy’s, uses data to under- online, immediately after the show airs. “There’s an panelist to talk about how the art of retail is converg- stand who is cross-shopping, and to understand and element of discovery, and we can also get the brand ing with science and technology in their businesses. tap into her behaviors with “data-driven customiza- out. At first, it wasn’t even about the commerce tion.” He explained that they try to use every tool aspect, but that came later—it was not about ‘How “The most important word today is omnichannel,” available to communicate—social media, e-mail, much business can we do’—it’s probably a pretty said Steve Sadove, pointing out that the goal for retail local media: “Everything is metric and can be small piece in the grand scheme—but about engag- has moved beyond multichannel in order to reach the counted, measured and analyzed—that’s what’s so ing the customer,” she said. customer and meet the constantly evolving demand. exciting,” he said. CONTINUED ON PAGE 7

6 FGI CONNECT Social Media in Fashion and Retail ...... Retail Symposium . . . . . Saks is also participating with Fashion Star (H & M is the third retailer involved), and Sadove acknowledged that it isn’t an obvious tack for the upscale retailer, but said they did it “for the surprise of it. What do Lady Gaga, Diet Coke and Pampers have The most common social tactics deployed by And to bring in a different customer base.” He said in common? They’re all on Facebook. Lady Gaga brands are: it’s like a 10-hour commercial for the store, with • Ratings and Reviews is the second-most “liked” living artist on the pieces Saks offered online selling out by 9:30 the • Microblogs and landing pages social-media site (behind rapper Eminem) with morning after the first show, and those shoppers (i.e. Twitter, Pinterest) nearly 50 million fans on her page. Diet Coke has also purchased other products once they were on the • Social recommendations 1.8 million Facebook fans and Pampers, just over Saks site. 1 million. Clearly, people want to engage with • Company blogs • Client-generated comments brands online—pop stars and consumer goods Winding up, Lewis pointed to the fact that—after • Product sharing on social sites alike. seasons of warning traditional retailers to watch • Social shopping aggregator sites their backs—brick and mortar stores now seem to (deal sites like Groupon) Alex Romanovich, speaking at the FGI CONNECT: have the competitive edge, having learned from their • Ability to engage open APIs (Application Social Media in Fashion and Retail Seminar on online competition how to use technology to Program Interface) March 7, emphasized that no brand can afford to enhance the shopping experience and increase pass up the opportunity to drive sales online. sales, but also maximize their experience with According to Romanovich, ratings and reviews are service and personalized attention that go beyond Romanovich is the founder and chief marketer the most important social-media tactics; they data mining. Opening up the panel to audience of Social2B International, a company that provide measurable information as people questions showed off the Yorn technology, with specializes in advising enterprise clients on social volunteer critiques and share experiences, acting questions displayed on a screen on stage. media in order to help them build an appropriate as “citizen shoppers.” The success of a campaign social infrastructure. He argues that social media can be measured in a detailed way. Trillions of The event was generously sponsored by Cotton Inc., and e-commerce strategies are no longer just bytes of data can be analyzed. For example, Me-Ality, Marie Claire, Kurt Salmon and Master beneficial, but essential for growth. A recent Facebook allows brands to survey, poll and feed Card. Shop.org study (online retail experts who back the results to their followers. The estimated provide reports and analysis on a variety of value of one review shared on Facebook is industry issues including sales, consumer shop- $15.72. Romanovich also mentioned that there –– Katie Kretschmer ping trends and retailers' marketing plans) showed are companies marketing the option to purchase Editor / Contributing Writer, [email protected] that 58 percent of U.S. adults follow six retailers friends (on Facebook) for approximately seventy on average on Facebook, and 28 percent of cents to one dollar each. But, he warned, while Facebook’s 800-plus million users have thousands of friends or fans on a page may look purchased something online via the site. impressive and may fool people for a while, it’s Another study, by Forrester Research, found that imperative to be authentic and transparent. The IN MEMORIAM the social-commerce market generated $5 billion consumer is intelligent and will eventually see in sales in 2011; this number is expected to through the veneer. That will cause a loss of increase to $30 billion by 2015. loyalty toward the product and/or brand. Alden Clanahan, a member of Fashion Group International, Because blogs, instant messaging, Facebook, Romanovich explained that the Internet and social Dallas, passed away unex- Twitter and other social platforms have become a technology act as enablers for the marketing tools pectedly in his sleep on way of life, Romanovich said, the integration of and activities utilized by companies. He February 5th, 2012. the real world and social world will only escalate. compared this to a funnel that starts with In fact, social applications, games, local deals and awareness of content creation and branding. Alden began his career of mobile technologies are driving new addictive more than 20 years with the As the funnel narrows, consideration is the next behaviors. And it’s not just the tweeting tweens or stage in which companies target, engage and Dallas Market Center as a freelance designer, the message obsessed Millennials who caught the became a DMC associate and rose to the incentivize potential customers. Once the fever—the trend includes Baby Boomers and consumer is aware and engaged, the next step is position of vice president of trend direction and Generation X. design. conversion. And finally, at the narrowest part of the funnel, and therefore the smallest group, is Romanovich said the U.S. has led the way, but Admired and respected for his imagination and the loyalty bracket. This refers to repeat customers social media is a global phenomenon. With a the extraordinary design aesthetic reflected in and brand advocates. worldwide audience, companies should want to DMC’s events and displays, Alden’s sense of engage. vision and creative leadership benchmark Dallas Market Center as a testament to ideas and ––Stacy Lomman inspiration. Contributing Writer, [email protected] Alden Clanahan will be sorely missed by his colleagues, friends and his fellow members at Fashion Group.

Furniture designer Tucker Robbins hosted FGI’s Chender noted that ABC Carpet & Home provides Frontliner on sustainability in celebration of Earth lots of education for the consumer: Signage is Day in his beautifully furnished gallery at the New prominently displayed, stories are written about the York Design Center on April 19. It was a perfect products to help consumers become engaged in the setting to kick off a conversation about sustainable stories behind the brands. The company has made practices: a light-filled space furnished with pieces a key investment in quality products that are designed by Robbins, who draws inspiration from sustainable. “If you buy a quality sustainable the past and travels the world to buy his wood in mattress, you’ll have it for 20 years! People don’t tropical jungles. His love of trees and wood is think that way any longer,” she said. apparent in each hand-crafted furniture piece. “Quality means efficacy. People who buy beauty On the panel sat a collegial group of industry products will pay a bit more if it works,” L’Heureux experts who have made sustainability a key part of said, and added that when she went to Morocco, she their business: Amy Chender, COO and director of spoke to the Berber women about how she could be social responsibility at ABC Carpet & Home; of help. She found out that the women needed Katharine L’Heureux, founder of Kahina Giving goats, and that they’re now using the wool from the Beauty; John Patrick, designer of John Patrick for goats to create rugs that have provided an additional Organic; and Tucker Robbins. Keith Recker, editor in source of income for the women. chief of Hand/Eye magazine, a print and online publication that discusses the intersections “Be fair and kind to our world around us,” Tucker between art, craft, design, philanthropy and enlight- Robbins exclaimed. “The economy is shaky. Get ened consumption, was moderator. back to reality, do things that save the earth. People forget that we can get by with less.” As a former The event, which focused on how the current con- monk turned furniture designer, Tucker ironically versation around sustainability has to start with the lived with almost no furniture for close to ten years. environment, how people and planet are inextricably As a world traveler, he now looks to improve the intertwined, and how this unbreakable link needs to carbon footprint each step of the way. Moderator; Keith Recker, editor in chief of include social and environmental aspects in the Hand/Eye magazine discussion, provided attendees with a world view of In closing, Recker reinforced that there must be a how all of us in the higher purpose to business. Value needs to be chain from manufac- placed on hand-made, we need to understand the turer to designer, from value of people to enterprise, and, ultimately to work beauty entrepreneur to for change through a process of reflection and retailer, must work continual improvement. together to bring the needs of the people and planet into harmony. Patrick told –– Mitria Di Giacomo the audience “I think Contributing Writer / Director of Special Events that consumers buy & Brand Development, FGI products because [email protected] they’re beautiful. It’s up to the manufac- turers designers to do Guests at the Tucker Robbins Gallery for FGI’s Frontliner, Sustainability that Doesn’t Crunch: the correct thing. People are always surprised to Getting to Green hear that I think Chanel is a sustainable business. It’s sustainable because it’s made in France, using European fabrics, the workers are all paid fairly, the garments are long-lasting—people keep them forever!”

8 ...... Featured Members in this issue ......

Laurie Black Mike Indursky Marylou Luther Keith Recker Jill Scalamandre Nancy Cardone Robin Lewis Laura McEwen Tucker Robbins Cindy Weber- Cleary Richard Dickson Katharine L’Heureux John Patrick Steve Sadove Karen Young Linda Fargo Peter Lichtenthal Caroline Pieper-Vogt Stephanie Solomon

THE FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL NEW MEMBERS

Ne w Yor k Eric Russack Colombia Kansas City Philadelphia Omar Ahmad Nancy Sachs Claudia Benjumea Gena Atzenweiler* Elizabeth Hanson* Kristen Allan Norma Sepenuk* Tattiana Echeveria Elizabeth Ermgodts Kristin Huxta Emma Ancelle Casey Sharbaugh* Yeimy Marin Patrick Froman Myrna Kresh Lisa Arbetter Sarah Shirley Melissa Osorio Garnet Griebel Rakia Reynolds Rebecca Beard Elena Silenok* Maria Pala Christina M. Marks Clare Sauro George Bezhanishvili Ashlen Snellen* Marcella Perez Kayla M. Mosel* Leah Simpson Jacqueline Bloom* Simon Spurr Juliana Restrepo Wendy Steinnagel James Broadbent Elizabeth Uss Camila Restrepo James Utt Saint Louis Victoria Rivera Elina Bromberg Harika Ustaoglu Gina Faust Los Angeles Stephen Burrows Elena Vasilevsky* Dallas Colleen Krask Kristan R. Carrizales Katherine Wadhams Ashley Anthony* Christia Parker* Brenda Carlson Marina Berberyan Kanika Chadda* Christina Wallace Leonardo D’Almagro Quinn Smith Stephen Cox Carla Chalmers Lisa Walters Monica Daniec* Christian Guernelli Suma Chander Katy Wang Emily Farrow-Mueller San Diego Joanna Hadfield Sarah Chianese Deborah Weinberg Cindy Fischler* Lupe Ahern Coco Johnsen* Emily Cohn Stephanie Winston Arthur Freeman Charlene D. English* Desiree Ojeda* Dana E. Cooper Wolkoff Yvette Lax* Ann Hardee* Jamie Ruiz GiGi Downs Sandra Yang Josephine Maduagwu* Kit Kuriakose Deborah Sawaf Dwayne Dunlevy* Ammara Yaqub Chelsea Stumo* Morgan Myrmo Carlos Zuniga Anna Lundback Dyhr Kelley Young* Members-at-Large Jennifer Rosson Melanie Fascitelli Melanie Brown Linnea Zeiner John Favreau Arizona Denver Julie Butler* (The Netherlands) Jennifer Fox* Natalia Acosta Dayna Jahnke Corwin Seattle Alexandra Fritsch-Gil Amy Bailey* Donna Christopher Shanelle Allen Caroline Corey (Oregon) Rochele Gloor* Mina Hernandez* Todd Berard Brittin Karaffa Jessica Joyce Diana Good Shanon Park Mary Clark Brooke Rinehart (The Netherlands) Deborah Poland Jenny Gorenstein Pimtheera Rojanavongse Jan-Peter Mout Cat de Montjoye* Edward Gribbin Katie Rausch* Fallene Wells* (The Netherlands) Cynarah Ellawala Anna Gulick Erin Southards Rachid Naas Cameron Levin Mark Gumm Detroit (The Netherlands) Mimi Levitas Julia Hawkins Atlanta Marion McAlister Kate Wallace (Singapore) Mike Indursky Courtney Albert South Florida Kerry Kinney Melissa Murdock Dominican Republic Minneapolis/St. Paul Dominique Artstondo Magdalena Klasnja* Shaunell Robinson* Anny Abate Jennifer Cermak Lawnette Lucille Mundy* Maria Alberto Colette Komm Staci Schaffman Jillian Jung* Michelle Rofe Fernanda Alberto Katharine L’Heureux Erin White* Helain Pesis Meg Sasaki Norca Amezquita Ji Yun Lee Alina Villasante Ivelisse Vasquez Amezquita New Orleans Frederick Magner Boston (provisional) Sofia E. Montes C. Lee Ali Cheryl Mainland James Mason Toronto Cherny Reyes Lois B. Anglin Maria Giulia Maramotti Ron Ranere Perry Bahniwal* Ana Karina Rosa Jolie Bensen Sebastian Masmela* Nadine Parsons Diana Minerva Suriel Nunez Julie Branden Charleston Erika Dalya Massaquoi Manuel Tarrazo Monique Davis James McAra Betsy Callas Sarah Elizabeth Dewey Washington, D.C. Brigid Merriman Lori Castle Houston Phylicia Foreman* Maurielle Balczon* Yvonne Leak Stephen Millikin Ashley Cebulka Carrie Keelty Jessica Bird* Fallon Jude Lewis Jeffrey Molinaro Val Enquist Gina Mancuso Angela Ferrer Bebe Marchal Soteria Kontis Sarah Ogden Ann Hellewell-Walmsley* Dean Merceron Sobeidy Vidal Aaron Owen Gail Salomon Joy Kennedy* Sheree C. Milliet Latisha Winston Cheryl Palacios Stacy Smallwood Frances Logan Glenn Michael Milliet Elizabetta Papuckoska Anna Summers* Jay Marroquin Suzanne Perron John Patrick Jerri Moore Salvador Scaccia * associate member Connie Pirrone Chicago Racheal Okotie Katie Schmidt Keith Recker Sarah Eichhorn Victor Quinteros Molly Stackhouse Tucker Robbins Samantha Rosati Jasmine Richardson* Berkeley Stone-Simmons Cynthia Rose Turie Von Tungeln* Toni Whitaker Anne Timmons-Harris