The Inside: Store Faves for Holiday Pg. 14 VERSACE GROWS HOTELS/3 BANANA’S EYE LICENSE/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • November 16, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Showtime NEW YORK — Dance fever — it struck more than a few of the recent ready-to-wear collections. Then there’s the real thing, pieces that can be either active day clothes or performance wear. What better way to demonstrate the graceful looks than on cast members from “A Chorus Line,” now back on Broadway. Here, Natalie Cortez, aka Diana, in Alexander Wang’s cotton tank, Cosabella’s rayon and spandex cami and Spring & Clifton’s cotton shorts. For more, see pages 6 to 9. Limited Goes Global: $628M La Senza Deal Gives Firm New Shape By Jeanine Poggi

BYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND DANIELA GILBERT BOBBI QUEEN AND DANIELA STYLED BY GILBERT BYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; fter years spent divesting assets, ALeslie H. Wexner surprised Wall Street late Wednesday with the $628 million acquisition of Canadian lingerie retailer La Senza. The deal reinforces one of the areas Wexner sees as the future of Limited Brands — innerwear (the other is beauty) — and turns the U.S.-focused retailer into an international one in one fell swoop. La Senza operates 318 stores in Canada and 327 licensed units in 34 countries under the banners La Senza, La Senza Express, La Senza Spirit and La Senza Girl, which is a tween brand See Limited, Page 16 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE GERALD SCHOENFELD THEATRE; HAIR BY KATY YUNG AT KATYYUNG.COM; MAKEUP BY MICHELE YURAS AT ARTISTS AT MICHELE YURAS MAKEUP BY KATYYUNG.COM; YUNG AT KATY HAIR BY SCHOENFELD THEATRE; THE GERALD GEORGE CHINSEE AT PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Six singular sensations from “A Chorus Line” give their take on wardrobing and how designers are fueling the dance-driven trend. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 6 GENERAL After years of divesting assets, Limited Brands switched gears with the GETTING THE SKINNY 1 $628 million purchase of Canadian lingerie retailer Le Senza. Fashion Experts Dish on the Future of Skinny Pant Gianni Versace and developer Sunland Group will jointly open 14 more 3 Palazzo Versace resorts around the world in the next 15 to 30 years. This season’s skinny pant may be all the do their research, find the right fit and discover rage, but is it a fad, a trend or a style built to last? the right way to wear it, say with a longer top Banana Republic has signed a fi ve-year deal with Italian eyewear fi rm “A fad is a flash-in-the pan, quickly turning or jacket,” Pao asserts. Women would be wise 3 Safi lo to produce a line of prescription optical frames and sunglasses. type of fashion, a trend is something with a little to invest their time in the fitting room; according DISH: Armani Jeans celebrated its 25th anniversary by laying the more practicality and purpose, to the Monitor, 68% of female 10 groundwork for a global expansion aimed at ensuring more milestones. and a style is something that respondents stated that they The Saks Fifth Avenue unit in New Orleans opens today 14 months after continually re-invents itself over decided to return a garment 12 Hurricane Katrina, the fi rst department store to reopen downtown. time to become a classic,” shortly after purchasing it. Fit/ China and India saw the biggest gains in textiles and apparel exports in explains Linda DeFranco, a size and dissatisfaction with the 17 2005, the fi rst year that global quotas were lifted, a WTO report said. Senior Product Trend Analyst way a garment looked were the with Cotton Incorporated. “I main reasons. “Innovations in today’s fabrics, EYE think the skinny pant could be a The Champagne fl owed as designers and their hangers-on piled into 583 trend that becomes a longer like stretch in denim, make Park Avenue to bid adieu to CFDA president Stan Herman. lasting style, provided it re- it so much easier for a woman 4 purposes itself with little tweaks of any body type to find a from season to season. It could flattering fit,” Pao continues. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 easily evolve to remain relevant Women certainly seem to be to a woman’s wardrobe.” cognizant of cotton’s advantages. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. However women individually According to the Monitor, [email protected], using the individual’s name. define a fad, trend or style, they when asked if they were aware WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. collectively agree to a wait-and- of cotton clothing with stretch VOLUME 192, NO. 104. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one see approach. According to the properties, three out of four additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle “A fad is a flash-in-the pan, female respondents stated in PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: Monitor™, when asked when quickly turning type of fashion, a the affirmative. Other cotton S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David they bought the latest styles, a trend is something with a little more clothing attributes with a high Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- considerable two out of three practicality and purpose, and a level of awareness among dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. female respondents stated on style is something that continually women included wrinkle Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. sale at the end of a season. re-invents itself over time to resistance and an expandable 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS The reason is equal parts become a classic.” waist. “These are properties and CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, economics and uncertainty as to — Linda DeFranco, treatments that go a long way ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four whether a new season’s garment Cotton Incorporated in making a woman happier weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. is fad or fabulous. “Women are with her garment purchase,” Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. seeking a practicality in their wardrobes and that Pao concludes. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, extends to what they wear but also what they When asked by the Monitor if they anticipated and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To spend,” observes Patricia Pao, founder of The Pao more or fewer changes to their apparel in the next subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Principle, a retail consultantcy based in New York. three months, one in two female respondents our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise “It’s about wearability and they will justify indicated more. One in three indicated less. 12.3% us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. a garment’s price with their frequency of said they planned to keep things the same. “Trends WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- wearing it.” may be turning quicker, but there are still appears ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, As for the skinny to be something for every OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED pant, most experts agree woman, no matter what that it will continue, When the Latest Styles Are Bought her fashion proclivity,” albeit with some DeFranco observes. alterations in the future. 05 Q206 Q2 +/– One garment most Today’s thinner bottom, Sale at End of Season 49.3% 50.8% 1.5 experts were quick to In Brief tucked into a pair of Beginning of Season 34.4% 34.7% 0.3 deem a fad were today’s high boots and paired popular thin leg coverings ● GAP INC. EXITS: Two Old Navy executives, Susan Wayne, with a longer tunic, vest favored in particular senior vice president of marketing, and Maureen Watson, vice or layered tops, will give way to next season’s by the junior set. “For anyone who has shuddered president of merchandising for kids, are leaving the $6 billion, slightly fuller pant worn with a flat shoe and at the leggings under dresses ‘trend’, you can relax; 900-unit Gap Inc. division. Gap confi rmed the departures and a classic, cotton tee shirt. Look for washes as spring 2007 will bring a return to length; read: said Wayne would leave around mid-December and Watson would leave around the end of this month. No replacements an important update to tomorrow’s bottoms. no more need for those ubiquitous leggings,” were announced. Last month, Old Navy fi lled a big executive “Come spring, you will also see skinny jeans in Foster predicts. gap, appointing Dawn Robertson as president, succeeding a variety of colors; in particular, the grey wash When asked by the Monitor if they believed Jenny Ming. Robertson will lead the turnaround efforts that will be around for seasons to come in both skinny that current styles did not flatter their shapes, began under Ming. Robertson was managing director of the 60- and boot cut jeans,” says Alana Goldsmith, a considerable 56% of female respondents agreed. unit Myer department store chain in Australia, and before that, Denim Buyer for online shopping destination “Clearly, there are cuts that may not be a Federated Department Store executive. Shopbop.com. “An important trend is with everyone’s first choice,” DeFranco, the trend ● M&S AND RFID: Marks & Spencer will roll out radio fre- washes, classy and clean and nothing too dirty or observer says. “Women need to keep in mind quency identification technology to 80 more stores in the distressed,” adds Pepper Foster, one half of the that a flattering fit is more important than a spring. Following its 42-store test last spring, the London de- design duo Chip and Pepper, a California based trend. If a woman can find a way to adapt an partment store chain extended the mix of tagged merchandise premium denim collection. n-trend silhouette into something that shows off to include fall and winter 2006 collections, bringing the num- Waistlines will also be updated in the form her figure to its best advantage, that defines how ber of apparel pieces tagged to nearly 50 million, said James of higher cuts. “The high rise skinny jean is a a trend can become one woman’s unique and Stafford, head of clothing RFID at M&S. RFID tags affixed to great fashion jean,” Goldsmith adds, noting that signature style.” merchandise enable stores to capture inventory data on a daily higher cut waists are gaining in popularity in other This story is one in a series of articles based on find- basis and ensure all sizes are available. Currently, M&S is tag- ging apparel in six store departments: women’s casual pants silhouettes, aside from the skinny. “High-rise, ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ and jeans, women’s suits, women’s jackets, men’s trousers, wide-legs jeans have sold like crazy these past tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these men’s suits and men’s jackets. The rollout to 80 more stores few weeks.” pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it will be phased in and cover the same six apparel categories, al- Another factor helping a trend transcend to a relates to the American consumer and her attitudes though new categories may be added next fall, said Olivia Ross, style is its adaptability for varying body types. and behavior regarding clothing, public relations manager. Marks & Spencer’s primary contrac- “Believe it or not, I think the skinny pant is appearance, fashion, fiber selection and tor on the RFID project is British Telecom with hardware from one that most women can wear; provided they many other timely, relevant subjects. Intellident and garment labels, embedded with RFID chips and printed with bar codes, from Paxar. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 3 WWD.COM Versace Rolling Out More Hotels Banana Republic Inks By Amanda Kaiser proximately $295, for a standard room to 3,500 Safi lo Eyewear Deal Australian dollars, or $2,676, for an imperial suite MILAN — Versace is getting serious about the overlooking the water. By Emili Vesilind hotel business. Di Risio took advantage of the hotel news to Gianni Versace SpA and Australia-based real give an update on Versace’s business. He said anana Republic has signed a fi ve-year deal with Italian eye- estate developer Sunland Group have inked a deal sales are exceeding forecasts, boosted by high- Bwear manufacturer Safi lo to produce a collection of pre- to roll out 14 Palazzo Versace resorts around the margin items such as handbags bearing six-fi gure scription optical frames and sunglasses. world over the next 15 to 30 years, joining the exist- price tags. The branded eyewear will likely be carried in Safi lo’s 80 ing Gold Coast resort in Queensland, Australia, and Versace’s sales for the nine months ended Sept. Solstice specialty boutiques in North America and in indepen- a Palazzo Versace in Dubai, set to open in 2009. 30 were 229 million euros, or $290.8 million, down dently owned optical boutiques, which command about $3 bil- Versace and Sunland are already business part- 5 percent from year-earlier fi gures because the lion of the $5 billion prescription eyeglass frame industry. The ners for the Australia and Dubai hotels. They fi rst company has eliminated several lower-end prod- collections are to launch late in 2007, and a selection of sun- joined forces in 1999, announcing plans to roll out uct lines. When presenting fi rst-half fi gures in glasses will make their debut in Banana Republic’s 500-plus lo- a chain of six Palazzo Versace hotels. The Gold September, Di Risio said the company is expect- cations in spring 2008, said Marka Hansen, president of Banana Coast resort, which opened in 2000, was the only ing full-year sales to exceed 270 million euros, or Republic, which is owned by San Francisco-based Gap Inc. one realized. $346 million. It is the fi rst time the Banana Republic brand name will be Construction Di Risio carried outside its own stores. on the Dubai said Versace is “It’s a huge opportunity to transfer high-end design and cre- hotel will start designing the ative solutions that [consumers] may fi nd in high-end luxury de- in January, actual struc- signs, but at a price that is lower,” said Claudio Gottardi, chief a year later ture of the ho- executive offi cer of Safi lo. than originally tels — down to Though Gottardi said it is too early to speculate on product expected. It the shape of design, he noted, “We expect that with Banana Republic, the will feature a the windows — product will be somewhat less top-heavy neoclassical rather than just than what we do with Christian Dior and facade resem- providing furni- Gucci. You will still have that fashionable bling Versace’s A Versace hotel rendering. ture and lend- look, but not too much. This transfers into Via Gesu head- ing its name to a longer life for the product. Very often quarters in Milan, three restaurants and three the project. Versace has intensifi ed its focus on its we only have a six-month life span on a swimming pools, one stocked with tropical fi sh. home collection, a trend that will no doubt con- pair of sunglasses. They get worn for a The Dubai property will cost 1 billion Australian tinue as the company furnishes each hotel. The certain period of time, then you can’t give dollars, or $764.7 million, to complete, and each executive said Versace will need to boost design them away. Banana Republic [styles] will subsequent Palazzo Versace will require a similar staff and also hire engineers and architects to have a more friendly, easy-to-wear look, investment, said Sahba Abedian, managing direc- carry out the new hotel project. while staying trendy. We will be able to tor of Sunland Group. During Milan’s last furniture fair in April, sell them for a year, or even more.” Sunland will foot the entire cost of the hotels. Versace unveiled an Art Deco-infl uenced collec- The companies declined to disclose Claudio Versace will benefi t fi nancially through royalties tion of black-and-white quilted leather furniture. financial terms of the deal, but the Gottardi and sales of its home collection items, needed to That shift away from the house’s more colorful, agreement includes a three-year, perfor- furnish the hotel. Baroque past echoes a broader, ongoing evolution mance-based renewal option requiring Safi lo to meet certain Versace chief executive Giancarlo Di Risio at the fashion company toward cleaner lines and undisclosed sales goals. said the resorts, like Versace’s other branding more sophisticated clothes. “It’s a huge move for us,” Hansen said. “What’s so opportune initiatives for private jets and yachts, are part of Abedian noted Versace’s home collection was a about this is taking the whole Banana Republic lifestyle brand a broader strategy to target the highest-spending project for Gianni Versace, who was killed in 1997. and making it available in channels that were’’ previously un- luxury consumers out there. Versace is not shoot- “It’s something that Gianni had created for available. “Safi lo has the opportunity to sell in their points of ing for volume sales of $325 handbags, he said. himself, for his own personal homes and palaz- distribution…and in [its] fully owned stores.” “This is an opportunity to demonstrate how zos,” he said. Padua, Italy-based Safi lo holds an estimated 29 percent market Versace is reinforcing its image as an Italian lux- Fashion houses and luxury brands have been share of the luxury eyewear category in North America, manufac- ury brand,” Di Risio told WWD, adding the house tapping into the hotel business for years. Krizia’s turing licensed branded collections for luxury companies such as and Sunland spent a year hammering out the Mariuccia Mandelli, a pioneer of sorts, opened Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Christian Dior, Stella agreement. her K Club in Barbuda in 1990. Over the past McCartney, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent. The company also Abedian said the third Palazzo Versace hotel couple of years, Bulgari has opened two hotels has a growing portfolio of moderate brands, including Fossil, Nine likely will be in Asia but that it’s too soon to spec- with Marriott International Inc., in Milan and West, JLo by Jennifer Lopez and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Safi lo is ify other locations. Resort locations and “gateway Bali. Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani is set to open a expected to reach $1.4 billion in sales this year, Gottardi said. cities” are probable candidates, he said. hotel in a Dubai skyscraper and a hotel above his Hansen added, “They do [a] very quality product, and we “It has to be an international city. It has to Milan Via Manzoni fl agship in 2008. Labels such as think we’re in very good company. We were looking for someone have a receptivity to high fashion,” Abedian said. Missoni, Byblos and Miss Sixty are getting into the who respects design, loves design and believes in quality. We’re “Obviously, emerging markets are very important hospitality business with their own projects. very concerned with protecting our brand aesthetic….We had a for us.” “Competition is very healthy,” Abedian said. very successful collaboration with Inter Parfums Inc. Between The Queensland hotel features marble fl oors, “No doubt [Palazzo Versace] will become one the two of us, we came up with something even more spectacular a sandy beach lagoon, restaurants and a marina. of the largest chains of boutique hotels upon than we would have [alone]. I think this can be the same thing.” Rooms run from 385 Australian dollars, or ap- completion.”

publications and the design schools. In May, the panel will announce 10 fi nalists, who will each receive 18,000 Mango Sets Fashion Competition euros, or $23,000, to produce a runway collection in four months. Those lines will be presented to judges at a fi nal By Nina Jones like John Galliano, Lagerfeld and Vivienne Westwood, ceremony in September, when a winner will be chosen. with a caption urging candidates to “Be the next...” “[The entries] are going to be a good mixture of BARCELONA — While most fast-fashion retailers are Agostini also stressed the new award would go to commerciality and creativity,” said Chistopher New scrambling to sign big-name designers, Mango is hop- a designer who already has produced and sold two of Central Saint Martin’s, referring to the company’s ing to spot the talent a little earlier. collections. decision not to open the awards to designers who have On Wednesday, the retailer unveiled plans for an “It’s a different award that will focus on entrepre- never sold collections. international fashion competition called neurs, people who have already been Antoni Garell, director of the Escola Superior de El Botón (The Button) Mango Fashion brave,” he said. “Lots of awards target Disseny, agreed. “The problem [for designers] isn’t in Awards. The competition is open to de- brand-new students. I think we’ve found the fi rst two or three years. It’s after that, when they’ve signers 35 years old and younger who an original niche.” tested the market and been accepted and are then hit have produced at least two commercial Mango’s chief executive, Enric Casi, by problems in the manufacturing process,” he said. women’s wear collections. said he wanted the size of the prize to Mango executives said the winner would not necessar- The prize is 300,000 euros, or $385,000 speak volumes. “We wanted this to be the ily produce a collection or work for Mango. “The focus is at current exchange, along with profes- biggest fashion award, and, economically on the award,” said Agostini. “It’s not linked to the impact sional guidance on establishing the de- speaking, it is,” he said. [of the collection] on Mango’s points of sale,” he said. signer’s own label. Five international design schools are Agostini said the company would discuss with the “I like that Mango will be contribut- backing the program: London’s Central winner whether his or her collection should be sold at ing to the world of young design talents,” Saint Martin’s, the Institut Français de Mango, possibly under its higher-end Limited Edition said Ricardo Agostini, creative director of la Mode in Paris, Istituto Marangoni in collection. If the collection does go on sale, a spokes- Mango, during a news conference at the Milan, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts man said it is likely that it would be within Mango’s Palau de la Musica Catalana here. in Antwerp and the Escola Superior de price points, which typically range from $20 to $250. Asked if this was his company’s riposte Disseny in Barcelona. The announcement of the awards comes at a time to H&M’s most recent collaboration with A Mango Fashion Awards ad. The first phase of the competition when Mango is ramping up its expansion plans, espe- Viktor & Rolf, Stella McCartney and Karl began Wednesday: Designers could down- cially in the U.S. The 22-year-old company opened stores Lagerfeld, as well as Gap’s partnership with Roland load an application form from the Web site mangofash- in Costa Mesa, Calif., and Seattle’s Bellevue Square ear- Mouret, he said, “We don’t want to focus on large, im- ionawards.com. lier this year, with 15 more American stores planned by portant designers.” The retailer plans to whittle down the fi eld to 50 ap- the end of the year. An 8,000-square-foot U.S. fl agship But, in a sense, Mango has done just that. The publici- plicants, who will then be judged by a panel including at 561 Broadway in Manhattan is set to open next fall. ty shots for the awards feature models dressed up to look representatives from Mango, various fashion houses and Mango currently operates 1,000 stores worldwide. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM

Oprah Winfrey in Valentino Couture. Stan by Me NEW YORK — Breaking up is hard to do, but a little Champagne always helps. And there was much to be had as designers and their hangers-on piled into 583 Park Avenue on Tuesday night to bid adieu to CFDA president Stan Herman. Even after 16 years, he was not ready for his curtain call. “I’m not retiring to Boca Raton, and why would I? It doesn’t get any Emilio better than this.” Estevez and Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, Francisco Costa, Derek Lam, his fi ancée, Cynthia Rowley, Mark Badgley and James Mischka were Sonja among the many who made their way to the Delano & Magdevski. Aldrich-designed building. Wang told the crowd Herman’s tenure is nothing to sniff at. “As we all know, in fashion, as in dog years, that’s equivalent to 10 lifetimes — 20 even.” Of course, the CFDA’s steersman nearly missed the chance to thank his still-gainfully employed 102-year-old father, Sidney, or anyone else. After waxing poetic about her predecessor, Diane von Furstenberg almost left the stage without introducing him. “This just explains who I am,” she said with a laugh. Across town, a smattering of anchormen and celebs, including Emilio Estevez and Joshua Jackson, traded hellos at a “Bobby” screening, followed by dinner at Le Cirque. “Oh, no, she’s in the scrum,” said a bashful Brian Williams as he was being led to meet Svetlana a mobbed Sharon Stone. Indeed, doing press for movies these days Metkina in is not unlike being on the campaign trail. “I travel with three huge Balenciaga. luggages,” said Russian actress Svetlana Metkina. “You never know what it’s going to be — red carpet, photo call, lunch, tea.” Downtown at the Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique, Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy hosted a book signing for Grace Coddington, whose “Catwalk Cats” is all about fashionable felines, followed by an intimate dinner at Sant Ambroeus. The stylist admitted cats don’t hold up to the Christys, Naomis, Cindys and Giseles of the world. “They focus on all sorts of things, just not on the moment,” she whispered. When the notoriously shy Coddington stood up to speak, the crowd broke out into a chorus of

meows, led by Jacobs. “We have this ongoing thing,” Jacobs explained. “We meet for JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE.COM CHRIS FORD/PMC; METKINA AND JACKSON AND KRUGER BY dinner every once in a while, and she talks about my cats and I talk about my dogs.” On Monday night at the New York Public Library’s Literary Lions gala, grand dames such as Lally Weymouth and Louise Grunwald mingled with Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Henry Kissinger, Elie Wiesel, Toni Morrison, Marina Rust and Oprah Winfrey. Kissinger said he had just fi nished Donald Kagan’s “The Peloponnesian Joshua Jackson War,” while Winfrey said she had no time to read a book recently, much less with Diane Kruger. pick a book selection for her show, because she’s been too busy with a school Marina Rust she’s starting in South Africa. “The last thing I read was about curriculums for girls.” Marc The same night, a young, artsy bunch fl ooded into Prada’s SoHo store to fete sculptor Tom Sachs’ Jacobs Alexander new tome, published by Fondazione Prada. While many of the guests, including Brooke de Ocampo, John McQueen McEnroe and Helena Christensen, may have been more interested in the fashion the Italian house puts out rather than in its reading material, Sachs made it clear his interests lie in art, not commerce. “I’m fairly indifferent to the brand,” he said. A dapper Alexander McQueen made an unexpected and brief appearance before heading back out into the rainy eve. “He was shopping in the store earlier,” explained Miuccia Prada blithely. “So I told him to come tonight.”

Stan Vera Grace Coddington Herman Wang with Karen Elson.

Brooke de Ocampo in Miuccia Miu Miu. Prada NYPL AND CFDA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; PRADA BY KRISTEN SOMODY; CODDINGTON PARTY BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN; ESTEVEZ AND MAGDEVSKI BY CHRISTIAN GRATTAN; BY PARTY CODDINGTON KRISTEN SOMODY; BY STEVE EICHNER; PRADA NYPL AND CFDA PHOTOS BY

Paul Dano in and he is careful to go after roles that he fi nds challenging — and to keep the a scene from less diverse material by the wayside. In “The King,” he was a Christian rocker Burger King “Fast Food who met an early demise at the hands of Gael García Bernal; “Little Miss Nation.” Sunshine” saw him as Dwayne, a Nietzsche-loving teen who had taken a vow NEW YORK — Paul Dano’s critically acclaimed performances in this year’s of silence. And he has just fi nished shooting Spike Jonze’s “Where the Wild “The King” and “Little Miss Sunshine” have established him as one of Things Are,” along with Paul Thomas Anderson’s “There Will Be Blood.” indie fi lm’s must-watch stars. But that doesn’t always cut it in real life. As for “Fast Food Nation,” in which he plays Brian, a disaffected Just ask the actor about the tough time he had while researching his role suburban youth working in a Mickey’s Fast Food in Cody, Ohio, Dano in Richard Linklater’s “Fast Food Nation,” out Friday. was attracted by more than just the politically charged graphic slaughter “I tried to get a job at a few McDonald’s down by me,” says Dano, who scenes. “Normally, you hear about some brutality of animals or you hear lives in the East Village. “I actually wasn’t able to.” people are getting paid minimum wage. But if you don’t get paid minimum While Dano may not have a future fl ipping burgers, his fi lm career is wage, that might be hard to relate to,” he says. “The great thing about the clearly on the rise. Ever since his breakout role as a grief-stricken teen script was how we see a lot of people, normal people, good people, people in 2001’s “L.I.E.,” the New York-born, Connecticut-bred actor has been like ourselves, kind of caught in a system that is way bigger than them and steadily working his way through intelligent, provocative parts in movies controlling them. And sometimes there isn’t much they can do about it such as “The Ballad of Jack and Rose.” Film is actually a relatively new because of their own personal circumstances.” love for Dano, 22, who grew up as a theater kid, acting in school plays and That’s not to say Dano was unaffected by the dark vision of “Fast Food quickly progressing to Broadway by the time he was in middle school. Nation.” An avid driver, he used to enjoy pulling off at exits on road trips “At that point, I took it very seriously, but I didn’t know what it was going for a quick burger. No more. “I have not eaten fast food….It just really to lead to. Certainly, I remember making it to my basketball games was just disturbed me,” sighs Dano. “Now, you know, I’ll just eat granola bars on as important,” says Dano, who is a junior-year literature major at The New these car trips and starve for 10 hours. It’s awful.” School. But the actor now fi nds himself fully taken with the fi lm medium, — Vanessa Lawrence DANO PHOTO COURTESY OF FOX SEARCHLIGHT DANO PHOTO COURTESY SHE PUT “MATERNITY” AND “CHIC” IN THE SAME SENTENCE. SEE HOW.

Liz Lange Designer

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From left: On Mara Davi: Inhabit’s cotton and cashmere vest, Kier + J’s cashmere pullover, Danskin’s shorts and Capezio’s cotton legwarmers. On Deidre Goodwin: Nylon mesh and spandex top from Norma Kamali for Everlast and Lululemon’s cotton and Lycra spandex sweatpants. On Tyler Hanes: Lululemon’s polyester and nylon T-shirt, nylon and Lycra sweatpants and Inhabit’s cotton sweater, tied around the waist. On Alisan Porter: Nylon and spandex leotard from Stella McCartney for Adidas, Capezio’s tights, Danskin’s nylon legwarmers and dancer’s own shorts. J C Theatrical shoes. On Heather Parcells: Spring & Clifton’s cotton bandeau and leggings. Fays shoes. On Natalie Cortez: Twinkle’s silk and cotton cardigan, VPL’s cotton and wool bodysuit, polyester and spandex shorts from Norma Kamali for Everlast and Petit Bateau’s cotton sweater, tied around the waist. Stella McCartney for Adidas shoes. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMEBER 16, 2006 7 WWD.COM Singular Sensations NEW YORK — What do you get when you combine six performers from “A Chorus Line” with several racks of dance-worthy clothes? More than one standout, that’s for sure. Here, and on the next two pages, a look at the cast — and how designers are fueling the performance trend.

ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; FASHION ASSISTANTS: COURT WILLIAMS AND CINNAMON ST. JOHN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND DANIELA JOHN; STYLED GILBERT BY WILLIAMS AND CINNAMON ST. COURT ASSISTANTS: FASHION ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE GERALD SCHOENFELD THEATRE; HAIR BY KATY YUNG AT KATYYUNG.COM; MAKEUP BY MICHELE YURAS AT AT MICHELE YURAS MAKEUP BY KATYYUNG.COM; YUNG AT KATY HAIR BY SCHOENFELD THEATRE; THE GERALD GEORGE CHINSEE AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 Singular Sensati

Who: Alisan Porter Who: Heather Parcells Who: Mara Davi Role: Bebe, an “ugly Role: Judy Turner, a Role: Maggie, a young girl from a duckling” who uses daddy’s girl ready for her troubled home who used to dance ballet to help her feel big break. around her living room with an like a swan. Stats: Has danced on imaginary father fi gure. Stats: Danced in Broadway in “Chitty Stats: “A Chorus Line” is Davi’s “Footloose” on Broadway. Chitty Bang Bang,” and in Broadway debut; played Peggy Sawyer Film credits include national tours for “Some in the U.S. and Japanese tours of “Parenthood,” “I Love Like It Hot,” “Chicago” “42nd Street”; appeared in regional You to Death,” “Stella” and “Thoroughly Modern productions of “A Chorus Line,” and “Curly Sue.” Millie.” “Dames at Sea,” “Baby,” “Gypsy,” On Fashion: “Every girl On Fashion: During “West Side Story” and “Grease.” should spend most of “Thoroughly Modern On Fashion: A fan of Capezio and her money on shoes and Millie,” she worked with LaDuca on stage, off-duty she favors bags. Keep everything costume designer Martin jeans, especially Seven For All Mankind, else simple.” Pakledinaz. “Marty has Lucky Brand and Guess. an amazing eye. We always wore La Perla tights with his outfi ts, because he preferred the texture. Now I love them, too.”

Who: Deidre Goodwin Role: Sheila, a strong, aggressive, aging woman who uses dance to escape her unpleasant family situation. Stats: The Broadway veteran has done “Chicago,” “Nine,” “Never Gonna Dance,” “The Rocky Horror Show,” “Jesus Christ Superstar” and Who: Natalie Cortez “The Boys From Syracuse.” Role: Diana, a Puerto Film credits include “Half Rican girl whose high Nelson,” “Across the school dance teacher said Universe” and “Chicago.” she would never make it On Fashion: Goodwin on Broadway. describes her style as Stats: A graduate of “clean and classic, NYU’s Tisch School of the not crazy trendy. I love Arts’ prestigious CAP 21 Catherine Malandrino. program, this is Cortez’s When I’m rehearsing, I Broadway debut; has usually wear Capezio, Who: Tyler Hanes performed off-Broadway Danskin or Maria Wallace.” Role: Larry, the confi dent assistant to the roles in “Sidd,” “Fame,” director/choreographer. “The Mambo Kings” and Stats: The Broadway regular has “Cinderella,” as well as performed in “Hairspray,” “Sweet Charity,” regional leading roles “The Frogs,” “The Boy From Oz,” “Urban in “West Side Story,” Cowboy” and “Oklahoma.” “Anything Goes” and “On On Fashion: “I don’t really dress up the Town.” that much, but I really like Marc Jacobs On Fashion: “My and Hugo Boss. For auditions, I like to opening-night dress wear Lululemon because its clothes really was BCBG Max Azria, complement my body. Otherwise, a good but Express has good basic is always black dress slacks that everyday clothes. stretch a little, and a fi tted T-shirt that Onstage, my favorite thing shows my upper body. I want to look like a to wear is custom-made dancer, but I still want to look like a guy.” shoes from T.O. Dey.” — Court Williams WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMEBER 16, 2006 9 WWD.COM Dance Fever NEW YORK — As the rack of clothing was rolled into the Gerald Schoenfeld Theatre for this photo shoot, the six cast members from “A Chorus Line” were given just one rule: pick pieces they would ions wear to rehearse in. “That’s so me,” said Deidre Goodwin of a Norma Kamali for Everlast top. “Natalie should get to wear the Bonjours — she’s French, after all,” said Alisan Porter, plucking a pair of Spring & Clifton shorts off the hanger. “This should go to Heather. She could totally get away with it,” said Mara Davi about an- other of that firm’s looks — a skimpy bikini top coupled with cropped leggings. In the end, the selections indicated that dancers have a unique way of mixing pieces together: street with active, traditional dance- of business development, says the fi rm’s ballroom business wear with ready-to-wear. has increased by about 40 percent in the last year; bestsell- After falling for a handful of looks, Natalie Cortez, aka ers include skirts in various lengths and tunic tops. “The ex- Diana, fi nally settled on VPL’s strapless bodysuit, which she posure garnered by these shows has really helped to push paired with roll-top shorts from Norma Kamali for Everlast. our business,” she said, predicting that the current leggings As it turns out, one of Kamali’s favorite things to do is outfi t and layering trends will continue to grow. “As fabrics get performers. “Dancers are so creative, and because they usu- lighter, layering becomes more popular — people are wear- ally don’t have a lot of money, they put things together in such ing two or three camisoles at once now. And that all started an unusual way,” said the designer, whose line for Everlast with dancers.” includes a plethora of dance-friendly pieces. “I love the way Danskin, too, is experiencing an uptick in interest, espe- they personalize their pieces by cutting them up or spray- cially from contemporary stores. “They’re picking up key painting them.” pieces such as dance cover-ups and wrap sweaters,” said Spring & Clifton’s Michelle Zacks says much of her spring Carol Hochman, chief executive offi cer of the fi rm. “People knitwear collection, which she named Practice Performance, are embracing looks dancers have worn for years, such as a was inspired by dancers. It’s little surprise then, that her tunic over a tank with leggings.” She noted that leggings are fl irty shorts emblazoned with the word “Bonjour” were an one of the most exciting items at retail today. “They’ve just obvious favorite at the shoot. “ ‘A Chorus Line’ was actually exploded,” she said. one of the things that was in my head when I was creating While mixing activewear pieces with rtw is not a new the line,” she said, noting that the starting point for Practice trend, Kamali says its versatility will continue to expand Performance stemmed from the do-it-yourself approach that the look. “What I really wanted to do with Everlast was cre- many dancers take with their clothes. “They love to knot and ate a line that took the casual dress attitude further,” she layer pieces, and the things I created are meant to be worn said. “You can mix it with anything. Put a bolero over a ball- that way.” gown. Have fun with your wardrobe. I’m so tired of seeing Thanks to the revival of “A Chorus Line,” not to mention the same thing on everyone. It’s time to express your- hit TV shows such as “So You Think You Can Dance?” and self again, and that’s why I love dancers: They take things “Dancing With the Stars,” the art of dancing is infi ltrating the apart and really experiment with them. They create true fashion masses in a big way. And now, it’s paying off at retail. individual style.” At Capezio, for instance, Deborah Gibbs-Pelton, director — Daniela Gilbert

Fosse, both of whom died in the Eighties. She had met Bennett when they were dancing on the seminal Sixties She’s the One TV music program, “Hullabaloo.” When she asked him “ACTING COMES FIRST,” SAYS SINGER-DANCER what he wanted to be when he grew up, he said, famously, Donna McKechnie, when asked what makes a great “a choreographer.” Collaborating on projects, McKechnie dancer. “I think any inspired performance grows from says, “We were fi nishing each other’s sentences in a acting — that’s what I connect with. The first important choreographic way.” With the character of Cassie, dancer I ever saw was Alicia Alonso in ‘Swan Lake,’ and “He went out of his way to create a role for what my what impressed me most was the talent was.” profound emotional life she brought McKechnie says she has enjoyed to the role.” McKechnie, an energetic, the roles she has done in subsequent ebullient woman of 64 who looks years, most of them not on Broadway. years younger, has been appearing in “I loved doing ‘Annie Oakley,’ Mama musicals since 1959 and is still doing Rose [in “Gypsy’], ‘A Little Night so. At the time of this conversation, Music’ all over, that was great. To be she was about to go to London to able to be in fi rst-rate productions.” appear as one of the Andrews Sisters Her one-woman shows, “Inside the in a production of “Over Here,” which Music” and “Gypsy in My Soul,” have takes place during World War II. also been hits. In 1975, an unusual musical Along the way, the performer was opened at the Newman, part of the stricken with an illness that, for a Public Theater. Called “A Chorus dancer, could hardly have been worse: Line,” it would become, at the rheumatoid arthritis. After many time, the longest-running musical rounds with conventional medicine, she in Broadway history and made Donna McKechnie as Cassie in the tried a strict diet and psychotherapy, many careers, among them that of Seventies, and today. which she claims enabled her to McKechnie. She won a Tony for it and overcome it. “I really want people to married the show’s director-choreographer, her longtime go out there and not take no for an answer,” she says. friend Michael Bennett. This fall, McKechnie published “There’s always hope, I guess.” her autobiography, written with Greg Lawrence, “Time McKechnie is delighted by the Democrats’ recent sweep Steps: My Musical Comedy Life” (Simon & Schuster), of Congress, and “euphoric” about the women taking on which came out just in time to coincide with the revival leading political roles, particularly House Speaker-elect of “A Chorus Line.” Nancy Pelosi. Her London project, “Over Here,” is a Many of the experiences of Cassie, McKechnie’s spoof that features the Andrews Sisters looking for a new “A Chorus Line” character, were based on her own, “sister” to join the act. “I said, ‘I want a big swing number. incorporated as part of the workshop method used to I want to be sweating and out of breath.’ Me and my big create the show. McKechnie attended the opening night mouth!” she says. And there is indeed a major dance of the revival but says that she can’t be objective about number. As for the future, she optimistically cites the long it. She kept seeing the people who originally played the career of actress Lillian Gish. “I see myself continuing as a roles onstage. She admits to particularly missing the two healthy person and growing into parts, so I see no end.” great talents who shaped her career: Bennett and Bob — Lorna Koski PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AT THE GERALD SCHOENFELD THEATRE THE GERALD GEORGE CHINSEE AT PHOTOS BY MCKECHNIE PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; PERFORMANCE PHOTO © MARTHA SWOPE THOMAS IANNACCONE; PERFORMANCE PHOTO © MARTHA MCKECHNIE PHOTO BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM

An ad marking Armani Denim Dish Jeans’ 25th anniversary. Left: Looks Armani Jeans: 25 and More from Armani Jeans celebrated its 25th anniversary this recent ad year by laying the groundwork for a global expansion campaigns. aimed at ensuring the brand will reach many more milestones. John Hooks, commercial and marketing director of Armani Group and president and chairman of Giorgio Armani Japan, said the company plans a “major expan- sion” of the Armani Jeans brand over the next three years. Those expansion efforts, said Hooks, will focus on the U.S. and Asia. “We have big plans to open Armani Jeans corners in department stores and some specialty stores in Japan, the U.S. and Asia,” Hooks said. “However, we feel we have to gear the product for the U.S. and we are getting ready for a big launch in that market.” Armani Jeans was introduced in the U.S. in 2002 and is sold at Barneys New York, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. The brand has proven its strength in other markets and is a signifi cant portion of Armani Group’s overall business. In 2005, the brand generated sales of 274.2 million euros, or $341.4 The Armani Jeans brand has devel- said, Hooks underscored that Armani Jeans is more so- million at average exchange, repre- oped a strong identity and offered a phisticated and expensive than A/X Armani Exchange senting about 15 percent of Armani greater degree of fl exibility than other and produced by Armani’s own factories. The Italian Group’s revenues for the year. In com- Armani brands. Armani Jeans was ini- manufacturing company Simint, which is controlled by parison, Armani Jeans generated about tially a spin-off of the Emporio Armani Armani, is still the core of the brand’s production. The $151 million in sales in the 1995-96 fi s- line, but gradually evolved into a full- new J60/61 jeans are entirely produced in Italy. cal year, when the brand celebrated its fl edged casualwear, active and “sporty, Social responsibility has been another prominent fea- 15th anniversary. outdoors collection with a life of its ture of the brand. Armani Jeans’ ecology-conscious, in- The brand relies on a wholesale own,” Hooks said, adding, “We don’t novative jeans were displayed in 1996 at the Museum of web of more than 3,300 in-store shops want to replicate Emporio.” Science and Technology in Milan, and the brand was a and multibrand stores in 80 countries, Armani Jeans has the benefi t of pioneer of the introduction of hemp in Italy, for which the as well as 18 freestanding stores. Over its products being able to more eas- designer was awarded a prize in 2003. the past two years, Hooks said the ily adapt and refl ect the styles and Ring-spun denim and original selvedge made on tra- focus has been on launching dedicat- trends of a local market, Hooks said. ditional shuttle looms that “maximize the natural quali- ed Armani Jeans areas within stores. Conversely, Hooks noted that Giorgio ties of the cotton fabric” are strong sellers, Hooks said, There are now more than 300. Ninety Armani is “much the same product all as are classic fi ve-pocket jeans. Denim accounts for 35 were opened in 2006. over the world.” percent of the collection, a production of about 6.5 mil- “Armani Jeans is probably the most widely distrib- As a result, Armani Jeans can take advantage of local lion pieces. uted of our brands,” Hooks said. production in Japan or South America, for example. That — Luisa Zargani Seven Bows Web Store Chip & Pepper Expands Seven For All Mankind will take its first steps toward Pepper Foster, co-founder and co-designer of pre- developing a direct-to-consumer business today with mium denim brand Chip & Pepper, just returned the launch of its first e-commerce Web site. home to Los Angeles after a trip to Istanbul where “I think it’s true of any luxury company that’s ad- he was touring factories. That’s no wonder, since dressing a modern consumer — you need to be avail- the company he runs with his twin brother, Chip, is able on the Internet,” said Michael Egeck, who left VF expanding into sportswear. Corp. to become chief executive offi cer of the Vernon, Hitting stores for spring selling, the new Chip & Calif.-based premium denim company in August. Pepper sportswear adds to the company’s denim After taking the reins at Seven, Egeck outlined fi ve Once the redesign was fi nished in September, the num- line, which sells in high-end specialty stores na- growth initiatives that would be the company’s focus ber of visitors to the site increased by double digits, spur- tionwide. for the future, including expanding into other product ring Egeck to move quickly on the e-commerce aspect. “I am really fi red up about this,” Pepper Foster categories, growing its international business and sign- “It seems like we’re doing this quickly, but it would said. “We really wanted to expand the brand to in- ing new licensing deals. Although the company plans have been good to do this a year or two ago,” he said. clude key items, so the sportswear does that for us.” to begin opening its fi rst signature stores during the Egeck also believes the launch signals the begin- The new line is heavily infl uenced by the broth- second half of 2007, Egeck found that the groundwork ning of a new era in the fi rm’s development. ers’ California heritage, with seersucker Bermuda had been done to move forward quickly on launching “This company was growing so rapidly that the shorts, skinny cargo pants, woven tops, supersoft an online store. focus was on servicing the existing demand versus Eighties-inspired T-shirts and denim and jersey “The rework of the noncommerce site was well creating new demand,” he said. “There’s a lot of pent- dresses seen throughout. under way when I got here,” he said. up demand for more and improved information about Available for both women and men, the Chip & our products. We’re really in- Pepper sportswear collection wholesales from $20 terested to see what happens to $60 and is targeted for the company’s existing when we turn it on.” retailers, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Fred Segal, Egeck declined to give esti- Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus. mates regarding sales and traf- “Retailers have been asking us for a line like this fi c targets, and acknowledged for some time now,” Foster said. “We are really con- that consumers looking to buy centrating on keeping the line right, with limited “a fi t-specifi c product like a distribution and great product, with that California jean” may be reluctant to do so sun-bleached look.” online. However, he believes Foster said he and his brother have no interest in the site’s greatest value may licensing. In order to keep full control of what they be in increasing brand aware- produce, they would rather keep the line in-house, ness and displaying the full he said, adding that the collection’s anticipated fi rst- range of Seven products. year sales volume is $7 million to $10 million. The site will initially be de- — Julee Greenberg void of any bells and whistles such as interactive fi t guides, instead focusing on presenting detailed views of the full prod- uct range. However, Egeck said the site will eventually be A look at used to create an online com- Chip & munity and inform customers Pepper’s A screen shot of Seven’s new online about the brand and company- new retail site, launching today. sponsored events. sportswear — Ross Tucker assortment. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 11 WWD.COM The Beat

Solange Pollack Hershberger Revamps Shagg and Sally Hershberger By Julee Greenberg Hershberger, who charges upward of $600 A look for a haircut and claims Meg Ryan, Hillary NEW YORK — When Sally Hershberger from Clinton, Jane Fonda and Courtney Love as walks into a room, it is like a storm hit. Shagg clients, said her fi rst love has always been She has arrived late and, not surprising- Downtown. clothing. She said her quest for the perfect ly, has discovered that things don’t measure T-shirt has led her to a tailor, who recuts up to her standards. and sizes the shirts she purchases. At a photo shoot held Tuesday for her newly “This whole thing started because my revamped contemporary T-shirt line, Shagg celebrity clients asked me where I got my Downtown, the most pressing concern was the shirts,” she said. “And really, they were al- hair, which had been done by an underling ways reworked.” from her namesake West Village salon. To help her focus and organize, Hersh- “Wait a minute,” Hershberger told her. berger hired Pollack. “Stop. It’s just too pretty. We need to mess “I needed someone with experience and it up a little.” someone who could be focused on just this,” The stylist on duty emptied out her bag Hershberger said. “I’m just not that focused on a table for Hershberger, but this only and not that organized.” made her more incensed. Pollack said her focus is to create the “Is this it? You don’t have anything else? perfect shirts, whether they are graphic- I don’t like these products you have here,” printed or solid or striped, material- or sili- she said. “You should put in your bag what I con-washed. put in mine. When you hit the big time, you “If the fabric doesn’t have a good hand, can do whatever you want.” then we don’t want to see it in our line,” After a challenging start on the clothing Pollack said. “We want this to be the T-shirt front, Hershberger is relaunching her col- she takes out of the closet and wears all lection with the help of Solange Pollack, a the time because it’s comfortable. It feels former model-turned-designer who worked like pajamas.” with contemporary knitwear designer Wholesaling for $26 to $45, the Shagg Mark Eisen. Together, Hershberger and Pollack have Downtown line is being targeted at better specialty stores. co designed a collection of supersoft vintage-inspired T- Hershberger said in the near future she plans to add sweats shirts with a few key bottoms mixed in. and cashmere sweaters to the mix. Hershberger said she “I’m not looking to compete with the denim lines al- hopes to reach $1 million in sales by the end of the year. ready out there,” Hershberger said. “I am really obsessed “I’m not going to sit here and tell you that I want to with fi nding the perfect T-shirt, so I wanted to concen- keep this line small and focused,” she said. “I want this trate on that.” company to be huge and focused.” Jordi Labanda: U.S. Bound rtist and designer Jordi Labanda is bringing his contemporary sports- Awear collection to the U.S. for the first time. Known mostly for his playful illustrations in ads for Dom Perignon and fashion magazines like Marie Claire and Vogue, the Barcelona native has interpreted his work into a contemporary line, launching in the U.S. for spring selling. “I really felt that it was important to develop the collection and establish ourselves in Spain and Europe, where our roots are,” Labanda said. “We know that the U.S. market is one of the largest, but also one of the most dif- fi cult markets to penetrate. Certainly we are now at the point where the col- lection is ready, and we are committed to building our business in the U.S., in addition to broadening A look from other international markets.” Jordi Labanda’s For spring, Labanda’s line spring line, has an array of styles, from launching in the cotton and silk dresses to U.S. this spring. denim jeans and T-shirts. The collection also includes hand- bags, lingerie and swimwear. Labanda said that for spring, he was inspired by Sixties The interior of the new White House|Black Market icons such as Jackie Kennedy, showcases the store’s white-and-black-only assortment. Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Sharon Tate. Labanda is known in the U.S. for his illus- trations, but he stressed that he is set to prove that there’s Fifth Avenue Gets White and Black more to him than that. NEW YORKERS HAVE A NEW PLACE TO BUY THEIR BLACK AND WHITE. “I realize that the custom- White House|Black Market, the contemporary retail chain owned by the Fort Myers, er knows me as an illustrator, Fla.-based Chico’s Inc., has opened its fi rst Manhattan store at 136 Fifth Avenue. This but I am interested in push- brings the brand’s retail locations to 244, with about 70 more store openings planned ing the medium as an artist in 2007. who designs great clothes,” This is the company’s largest store, at 3,550 square feet. Most of its other units are he said. “I love to use my il- about 1,800 square feet. The design of the Manhattan space is different from the others, lustrations in my clothing de- which are mostly in malls. Although it is still decorated in the signature monochromatic signs in a more abstract, less palette, there are new touches such as crystal chandeliers, a cozy fi replace, large dress- literal way by using them in ing rooms accented with oversized silk curtains and plenty of seats for waiting. accessories — on a button or “I think we are in a greater position of strength,” said Patricia Darrow Smith, execu- brooch — or lining details or tive vice president and chief merchandising offi cer of the company she founded in 1985. by using big prints and de- “So now was the perfect timing for us to come to New York.” constructing the images to be Darrow Smith said the store design shows the evolution of the brand and where it is more abstract. I love that this headed, with upgraded quality at the forefront. medium allows me to experi- “Many of our other stores are a bit harder to shop, simply because of the sizes of ment with my artwork and them,” she said. “But this store is really easy and elegant, which makes the shopping give it a new meaning.” experience better.” The Jordi Labanda collec- Darrow Smith said she expects the Manhattan store to be in the top fi ve performing tion, available at the IMEX locations. The top performer is in Puerto Rico and brings in more than $5 million in showroom in New York, annual sales. wholesales from $50 to $300. The chain began in 1985 as The White House with all-white assortments. It added Labanda said he is aiming separate all-black stores, Black Market, in 1995, and combined the two in 1997. In the the line toward better spe- late Nineties, with around 50 stores, White House|Black Market converted all product cialty retailers. He expects to to private label programs sourced through various manufacturers. Chico’s purchased reach $500,000 to $750,000 in the brand in September 2003, with a mission to expand and open many more retail loca- fi rst-year wholesale volume tions nationwide. in the U.S. — J.G. — J.G. SHAGG PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; WHITE HOUSE BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE CENTENO; WHITE HOUSE BY TALAYA SHAGG PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM Saks Makes Fresh Start in New Orleans By Sharon Donovan NEW ORLEANS — Looted and ravaged by fire, the Saks Fifth Avenue store here was a dark, dank shell when general manager Carolyn Elder assessed the damage after Hurricane Katrina. That moment marked an end — as well as a beginning. Today, about 14 months later, Saks is to become the fi rst — and only — department store to reopen downtown. Executives predict customers will return, even though most people believe achieving normality in New Orleans will take many years. “I never lost faith that we could make a comeback,” Elder said. “But I have to admit I did take a step back and take a deep breath when I realized the extent of the challenge that faced us.” She initially contemplated that challenge from her kitchen pantry in the Uptown neighborhood, one of the few areas that sustained minimal damage. In the makeshift offi ce, equipped with cell phone, BlackBerry and a computer, Elder was the go-to person in the effort to resurrect the 110,000-square-foot store. In a city with nonexistent resources, Saks’ trump card was a Jackson, Miss.-based construction company used by the retailer that dispatched a team of workers and supervisors who sometimes worked seven days a week during the various demolition and construction phases, Elder said. At the peak of construction, as many as 175 work- ers swarmed the building, including teams of 25 architects and engineers and 20 store planners and designers. Saks usually allots about two years for such an extensive project. The New Orleans store had an accelerated timetable for completion. Executives declined to reveal the cost. “It’s worth the investment,” said Saks chairman and chief executive offi cer Stephen Sadove. “Rebuilding the New Orleans store from scratch was as much a busi- ness decision as it was our vote of confi dence in the city. It has been a long process, but we were committed.” The Oscar de la Renta With the two other downtown department stores, Macy’s boutique during SHARON DONOVAN PHOTOS BY and Lord & Taylor, permanently closed, the rebirth of Saks construction. anchor spotlights and dramatic mobilelike chandeliers. has taken on heightened importance to the city, where more “We had a handsome building before, but now we have a than 80 percent of homes and businesses were fl ooded and look that is totally modern luxury,” Elder said. the population is now estimated at 197,000 compared with And 19 paintings from New Orleans artists create whim- 450,000 before the hurricane. sical focal points. Saks’ visual designers uncovered a wealth “Saks’ impact on New Orleans’ recovery is crucial to of contemporary art in the city’s galleries. demonstrating to the outside world that the city is resum- “They were blown away by the range of talent in New ing its vibrancy,” said Darryl Berger, co-owner of The Shops Orleans, where the art is a fraction of the price compared to at Canal Place, a 200,000-square-foot mall that Saks anchors either coast,” Elder said. and where BCBG, Banana Republic and Adrianne Vittadini The rebuilding took fi rm shape in February, when Saks are among the tenants. offi cials convened in New Orleans. Elder planned a day of Many merchants, some of whom reported 10 to 30 per- meetings with representatives of the city’s real estate, tour- cent monthly sales increases in Saks’ absence, are bracing ist, convention and fi nancial industries. The itinerary also for the fallout from the store’s return. On Magazine Street, included a tour of the city during which the visitors fell si- a main shopping thoroughfare, Mimi Bowen, owner of the lent as they viewed the devastation. high-end boutique Mimi, is prepared for the “giant sucking If Saks executives thought reopening was a risky ven- noise” that will represent the drop in her sales. “I’m wor- ture, Elder sought to put that notion to rest by overlaying ried, but Saks’ reopening is far more signifi cant to the fu- the map of the fl ooded areas with the map that showed the ture of the city than my concerns about my store,” she said. predominance of the New Orleans customers’ zip codes. The emphasis of the new Saks will remain women’s She concluded that 20 percent of Saks’ customer base had ready-to-wear, which has represented 60 percent of sales. been severely affected by Katrina. The second fl oor is fi lled with boutiques averaging 800 “That was a huge visual impression that helped balance square feet each and earmarked for newcomers such as the impression created by national news that the city was in Chanel, Oscar de la Renta, Chloé, Etro and Akris. They join worse shape than it was,” Elder recalled. perennial Saks boutiques Carolina Herrera, Prada, Armani It was a pivotal moment for Saks in New Orleans. “Even Collezioni, Escada, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, Piazza though we all thought we would come back, it was really at Sempione, Dusan and TSE. Hermès opted to discontinue that point when everyone said, ‘Okay, let’s do come back, its 250-square-foot presence. and let’s come back in November,’ ” she said. Designer boutiques share the store’s second level with the contemporary category As construction momentum gathered steam, Elder turned to focus on the where- that includes vendors such as Tahari, Theory, Nanette Lepore, Juicy Couture and abouts of Saks’ customers and the 190-member staff, whose eventual return to the Twisted Heart, as well as intimate apparel and shoes. city was key. Customer service fi elded hundreds of calls from displaced clientele The interior design shows off brands amid elegant accents. Walls of silk paper and and then marshaled resources to stay in touch via Internet and phone. The retail- others made of frosted glass face partitions of glossy red-painted panels. Mother-of-pearl er tracked its customers through their credit card purchases as they shopped Saks mosaic tiles offset porcelain fl oors. Sculpted three-level ceilings with rounded moldings stores in other locations. “It showed us that our customers were loyal and continuing to spend at other Saks stores and on the Internet,’’ Elder said. “It was a solid — and encouraging — pattern of success.” Employees were paid full salaries for four months and offered jobs at other Saks stores. With coordination from the Saks human resources department, 60 associates were relocated for jobs in stores from Palm Beach, Fla., to Beverly Hills. Another 60 employees, tied to the region for personal reasons, took whatever temporary employ- ment they could fi nd. Still others, like Gabe Nassar, became an integral part of the recovery effort. Nassar, who had been the eveningwear department manager, was drafted to put on a hard hat and served as assistant to the construction superintendent. As the store relaunches with 115 of its original employees and about 70 new hires, Nassar will be the department manager of contemporary and modern sportswear. “He’s just one of those fl exible, amiable guys with a positive attitude and who vol- unteers above and beyond,” Elder said. While the city’s recovery poses daunting problems, Saks offi cials are optimistic, pointing to a regional customer base that extends in a 200-mile radius from New Orleans to cities such as Baton Rouge, La., and Mobile, Ala., accounting for 60 per- cent of sales. Convention and visitor traffi c generates the remaining 40 percent of sales and is making a slow return. In October and November, conventions attracted an estimated 184,000 people, tourism offi cials said. Although down from a comparable period in 2004 when 356,000 conventioneers attended meetings, offi cials say the number is en- couraging. Across the street from Saks, Harrah’s Casino has reported record revenues each month over the past six months, and a few blocks away, cruise ships have returned to the port of New Orleans carrying thousands of visitors. Before shutting down, Saks’ sales volume in New Orleans had earned it a consis- tent number 10 ranking within the 55-store system. With $500 sales per square foot, it typically posted 5 to 7 percent annual sales increases. Although a fi xture in the market for 23 years, Saks may not regain that momentum The new Chanel boutique. for two to three years. “It’s a conservative estimate and could accelerate depending on how the various departments perform,” Elder said. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 13 WWD.COM

no one knows how long that’s going to take. Aveda Opening 2nd Japan Flagship Langmead said Wednesday that it was time for him to move on. He joined Wallpaper four years OSAKA, Japan — Aveda will raise its flag in western Japan Friday MEMO PAD ago and oversaw its reinvention following the when it opens its second flagship in the country in the heart of this departure of founding editor Tyler Brûlé. “I had city’s rich luxury shopping district. NOT JUST A BUILDING: Real estate advertisements a really good time and feel like I’m leaving a The Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa Shinsaibashi in Osaka is meant to are usually so unexciting, they are given back- strong and stable magazine. It’s in safe hands,” serve as a springboard for expanding Aveda’s business throughout the of-the-book placement in most magazines. he said. And the gloves are already off for his salon network and retail community in Japan’s lucrative west. But a new campaign that will appear in Town next venture. He said one of the reasons he took “Western Japan has a different culture, business and customer & Country’s December issue hopes to break the Esquire job was because there’s no men’s base,” said Dominique Nils Conseil, president of Estée Lauder-owned the mold. The eight-page ad spread from the magazine in the U.K. that he wants to buy. So Aveda Corp. at a press conference here on Wednesday. “It is important Talisker Club, a private membership club in Park watch out, Dylan Jones (British GQ), William Drew to have a fl agship here,” he added. City, Utah, was (Arena) and Ross Brown (FHM)). “Esquire is a Aveda has opened more than 100 salons in eastern Japan since en- shot by fashion magazine with an extraordinary history, and I tering the country in 2003 with its Tokyo fl agship. “We have been very photographers want it to have an equally extraordinary future,” satisfi ed with the success of business in eastern Japan. The growth is Peter Lindbergh and he said. Langmead will replace Simon Tiffi n, who faster than expected. For expanding our business into the western part Patrick Demarchelier left earlier this year. — Samantha Conti of Japan, we need a fl agship shop with enough space that can demon- (the fi rst real strate the whole concept of Aveda,” said Conseil. estate/residential TUNED OUT: Gemstar-TV Guide International The two-story shop has 373 square-meters, or 1,223 square feet, of project for each), laid off 40 staffers on Tuesday, including 24 space, including the offi ce. Instead of creating a shop in a department features Lauren from the magazine and 14 from a data services store, Aveda chose to locate the fl agship in the fi rst and second fl oors of Hutton and Angela division of the company, Data Solutions. At the the newly developed resi- Lindvall and appears magazine, layoffs affected both low- and senior- dential building at 1-10-40 between the level workers in all divisions on both the editorial Nishi Shinsaibashi in Osaka. mastheads, near and business sides. “This is not unique to TV However, Conseil signaled a A Talisker Club ad. the front of the Guide,” said a spokeswoman for the company. BEAUTY BEAT willingness to work with de- book. “It’s not just “In a tough publishing marketplace, we needed partment stores in the future. a picture of the to look at ways to operate the magazine more The new shop is a short walk from the center of luxury shopping property and its amenities,” said Jim Taylor, vice cost-effectively. Unfortunately, that necessitated in Osaka, emblazoned with names like Louis Vuitton, Chanel and president and publisher of Town & Country. “It a reduction in staffi ng levels.” TV Guide last fall Christian Dior. has a lifestyle and fashion feel to it. It looks more underwent a radical overhaul when it morphed The Osaka complex consists of an Aveda lifestyle salon, a retail editorial because it tells a story.” He supported from a digest-size magazine to a full size and store, a spa and a cafe offering a healthful menu. Aveda chose the cen- the idea that more real estate companies could slashed its rate base to 3.2 million from 9 tral Shinsaibashi location to provide easy access to salon owners, re- follow Talisker Club’s lead. “This is one of the million. This year through Nov. 13, ad pages tailers and shoppers. fastest-growing categories,” he added, “and it’s a totalled 778, according to Media Industry Design elements category that didn’t even exist a few years ago.” Newsletter (comparables to 2005 were not that are unique to the The ads will be printed on a thicker paper stock available). — Stephanie D. Smith Osaka shop include than the rest of the magazine. For 2006, real recycled glass floor estate ads represented 2.5 percent (36 pages) of SECOND IN COMMAND: Details editor in chief Dan pebbles used in spa Town & Country’s ad pages. Taylor aims to double Peres has fi nally found a deputy editor to fi ll a spot shower stalls, stairs that number next year. — Amy Wicks that’s been open since May. Greg Williams, former and a rock garden editor in chief of Arena and Maxim Fashion, was platform made of re- LANGMEAD LEAVING WALLPAPER: Wallpaper editor named deputy editor, a slot left void by Brian claimed oak wood Jeremy Langmead is swapping the world of design Farnham’s departure to Time Out New York. “He is planks from a de- and Time Inc.’s British subsidiary IPC for a terrifi c editor and a wonderful guy and will make molished Sake ware- designer duds and the Hearst subsidiary National tremendous contributions to Details,” said Peres house in Kyoto and Magazines. Langmead has been named editor on the hire. Before joining Condé Nast, Williams walls fi lled with soil of British Esquire and will begin as soon as his was editorial director at Giant until April, when he and straw mud. successor at Wallpaper is named — although left to fi nish his third novel. — S.D.S. Tamo oak, a mul- tipurpose wood Inside the new fl agship. sourced in Hokkaido, is used in the fi rst retail area for the millwork cabinets, fi xtures and architectural walls; it is harvested locally. A ceiling trellis and shelv- ing in retail displays are made from recycled wood taken from a dis- Marc Jacobs ‘Rises’ to the Occasion at Ballet mantled farmhouse in the city of Fukuoka. On the right, at the entrance, C’s Garden, a cafe operated by Chitose By Miles Socha dancers had to be replaced with fl at bands to Pharmacy in Japan, serves health-conscious food and drink. accommodate their movements. Otherwise, In the salon on the second fl oor, tamo oak is also used for the cabi- PARIS — Low-rise pants styles might be all the the designer said he was “super happy” with nets, fi xtures and walls. Natural linoleum fl ooring is made with lin- rage, but not for the ballet stars at the Opera the fi nal look of the 40-minute piece, per- seed oil and cork particles. Soil and natural straw mud are used as Garnier who are keen to show off their assets. formed to excerpts from Philip Glass’ lushly wall in-fi ll in accordance with a traditional Japanese technique, cho- That’s what Marc Jacobs learned last repetitive “Einstein on the Beach.” sen because it does not require chemical paints. It was designed with week when “Amoveo,” choreographed a modern color scheme. by Benjamin Millepied and costumed by “As the Japanese continue to embrace values of sustainability, ho- Jacobs, premiered here for an eight-per- listic beauty and wellness, this expansion is a natural progression,” formance run, which ends Saturday. says Roxana Daver, Aveda’s vice president of product development for “The tights, they pull them way, way Asian markets. “Our business is based on high-performance, profes- up,” the designer said after attending sional products,” she said, adding that the line is also designed to aid multiple dress rehearsals and making the well-being of the environment. last-minute alterations to his 42 costumes, In Tokyo, the Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa Minami-Aoyama, which mostly tunics, T-shirts and tights in a has won several design awards, was created as a place “connecting range of metallic shades. beauty, well-being and the environment,” according to the company. While dancers ignored his suggestion At the Wednesday press conference, Aveda showed off its apparel of low-slung tights, and some demanded collection Ecoture for Aveda, which was designed by Deborah Milner, more plunging necklines, there were more in a mini-fashion show. serious technical diffi culties with the pas In terms of product, a limited-edition set called Love From Aveda de deux costumes, which were deemed will be introduced Friday to commemorate the opening of the fl agship. abrasive. Jacobs said rolled metallic Marc Jacobs with the company.

The set includes a Damage Remedy series (shampoo, conditioner and piping to suggest the musculature of the BIANCHI STEFANO PHOTO BY treatment), Light Elements Smoothing Fluid, and Love Pure-Fume, which is launching in Japan for the fi rst time. All products will be of- fered bundled inside an organic cotton tote bag. Aveda has two kinds of salons: the concept salon that uses only Aveda products and the family salon that deals in other brands as well as Aveda. Now, the company has 24 concept salons and 96 family Zumiez Sales Soar, Earnings Gain 29.3 Percent salons; by 2009, Aveda plans to have a total of 400 shops throughout olstered by a same-store sales gain of 10.7 to-date.” Japan. Bpercent and a total sales increase of 43.3 He said during the quarter, Zumiez opened — Koji Hirano percent, Zumiez Inc. posted third-quarter 12 stores and “remains on track to open 42 new earnings that climbed 29.3 percent. The re- stores in fi scal 2006, in addition to the 19 Fast tailer also said it can grow the store base to Forward stores acquired in the second quarter. L’Oréal Taps de Brugerolle for SkinEthic Post at least 800 units. “While we are proud of our accomplish- Net income for the period ended Oct. 28 ments so far this year, we believe we are still in PARIS — L’Oréal has named Anne de Brugerolle managing direc- increased to $6.8 million, or 24 cents per di- the early stages of our growth potential, and we tor of SkinEthic, the skin tissue engineering company it acquired in luted share, from $5.3 million, or 18 cents, in continue to strive to improve the store experi- February. the prior year on sales that swelled to $82.3 ence for our customers,” the ceo added. “We L’Oréal said in a statement Wednesday that Jean-Francois million from $57.4 million. had 233 stores at quarter end, and believe we Grollier, its vice president of research and development, selected de Rick Brooks, president and chief executive can eventually operate 800 stores in the U.S. In Brugerolle for the post. She joins the French beauty fi rm from Novartis offi cer, said in a statement that the retailer is fi scal 2007, we plan to open 50 new stores, con- Pharmaceuticals AG. “pleased with our third-quarter results and sistent with our long-term goal of expanding Martin Rosdy, SkinEthic’s founder, will continue to work on new the earnings growth driven by our team year- square footage by 20 to 25 percent annually.” applications for reconstructed skin at L’Oréal. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM If you happen to have done some shopping over the past few weekends, perhaps you noticed the holiday decorations sneaking their way onto the shelves, or the carols beginning to blare over the loudspeakers. Yes, TheWWDList that time of year has arrived once again, and the question is: Where do consumers plan to shop for gifts? In its holiday Gift Tracker survey, Stevens, Pa.-based Unity Marketing asked respondents to select their favorite department and discount store destinations for their gifts this season. Unity Attention, Holiday Shoppers Marketing found a holiday shopper is expected to spend $949 on presents this year, up 9.1 percent from the average of $870 spent in 2005. Below, a The favorite department and discount store destinations for gift look at the top dogs of each of the store types, and what they are doing to shopping this holiday season. prepare for the holiday craze. — Cecily Hall Department Stores J.C. PENNEY Percentage of respondents who will likely buy holiday gifts here: 14 Earlier this month, Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd, chairman and chief executive offi cer, said the Plano, Tex.-based chain is gearing up for the holiday season with its Red Box Gifts program. “The four major categories are electronics and innovations, cozy at home, jewelry and watches and toys,” he 1 said, saying the program is designed to let customers know what gifts are key for the season. Featured items include a women’s red cashmere sweater with ruffl ed-edge sleeves, a diamond accent circle pendant and iPod cases. In addition, staff wearing red aprons will have a specialized knowledge of each gift idea to help customers with their purchases. The chain is planning to implement a quicker checkout process for the items, as well.

MACY’S Percentage: 11 Last week, Terry Lundgren, chairman and ceo, said in a statement, “We continue to view 2006 as a transition year…notably a transition of more than 400 stores to the Macy’s nameplate. With a new brand structure now fully in place, we look forward to a successful holiday selling season.” 2 The Macy’s Herald Square location in New York is showing off its festive spirit with its annual holiday window displays. Macy’s began this tradition in 1862, and this year the windows will allow spectators to participate in the displays by touching special pads that activate animations and other features. And only at Macy’s Herald Square would one fi nd a toy store among its fashion apparel and accessories offerings. SEARS Percentage: 7 WWD reported at the end of October that Sears Holdings Corp. has created a Web site for moms as a “one-stop resource for all of her holiday needs.” The site, readysetholiday.com, is available to shoppers Nov. 1 through Jan. 12 and will provide gift-giving suggestions, decorating tips and 3 other online specials. The site offers electronics, holiday decorations, kitchen items, home furnishings and apparel, among other products. In terms of apparel, popular brands such as Levi’s, Danskin, Apostrophe and Dockers are available at Sears.

NORDSTROM Percentage: 3 * “One of the interesting results from this study is that nowadays, consumers want a better shopping experience overall,” said Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing. “They’re not interested in running around a huge store dealing with a crowd during the holidays. Places like 4 Nordstrom offer a more intimate, more personal, more fun shopping experience.” A few notable limited-edition holiday gift items from the upscale department store include Narciso Rodriguez’s For Her eau de toilette fragrance, T3’s Winter Wanderer Travel Tote and the Shu Uemura 24-karat gold eyelash curler. The Seattle-based company also recently began pumping up the designer collections area of its Web site, according to WWD.

DILLARD’S Percentage: 3 * On Tuesday, WWD said Dillard’s sales of lingerie and accessories “signifi cantly exceeded” the company’s performance for the three months ended Oct. 28. Dillard’s said it remains committed to positioning the merchandise to a more upscale and contemporary customer, one who is “seeking 5 exciting statements in fashion.” Brands such as DKNY, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein and Ellen Tracy offer plenty of apparel for the fashionista this holiday season. The retailer’s current campaign “Dillard’s — The Style of Your Life,” launched last August, will continue through the holiday season. The campaign features Dillard’s fashion merchandise in a variety of lifestyle scenarios, distributed through multiple media channels. Discount Stores

WAL-MART Percentage of respondents who will likely buy holiday gifts here: 35 Let the pricing wars begin. WWD reported this month that following a few merchandising setbacks and some disappointing sales numbers, Wal-Mart executives said the company intends to implement its most aggressive pricing strategy ever for the holidays. Gift-givers seem to like this idea, as they 6 have selected Wal-Mart as the top discounter this season. For the holidays, the retailer already has begun rolling back prices in core categories such as toys and electronics. Wal-Mart’s “Be Bright” marketing and advertising campaign launched Nov. 1 and focuses on value fashion. The company hopes apparel brands such as Faded Glory, No Boundaries, George and Exsto, its hip-hop inspired men’s clothing line, will attract consumers.

TARGET Percentage: 23 Target has already gotten the jump on the season with its festive Web site. The site has an additional feature that provides product availability at specifi c stores — clearly in an effort to increase customer purchases. On Wednesday, WWD reported that Robert Ulrich, Target’s chairman and ceo, stated, “We expect the holiday season to be [intensely] competitive, and, as a result, we have planned our business to drive traffi c and generate 7 profi table sales.” And according to Greg Steinhafel, president, popular items this holiday will include “stylish handbags, clutch purses and gloves in both day and night designs.”

KOHL’S Percentage: 11 Earlier this month, Kohl’s reported October comps gained 4.2 percent. Larry Montgomery, chairman and ceo, said in a statement, “We believe we are well-positioned for the upcoming holiday season.” Through Nov. 18, Kohl’s is holding a “Secret Santa Sale,” offering deep discounts on products 8 from women’s apparel, shoes and accessories to home furnishings and electronics. Also during the holiday season, 100 percent of profi ts from customers’ purchases of items in the “Kohl’s Cares for Kids” collection will support health and education opportunities for children. The holiday collection includes plush animals and Dr. Seuss books.

KMART Percentage: 6 In addition to plenty of holiday decorations, items that might catch shoppers’ eyes this season at Kmart include the Paris Hilton Women’s Fragrance Gift Set and sleepwear sets from Joe Boxer. Beginning Sunday, Kmart will support “KartWheels for Kids” through Dec. 20. Customers will be encouraged to donate a new toy to a child attending a local Boys & Girls Club every time they visit a Kmart store. The retailer is hoping 9 to acquire extra donations with a series of print ads, in-store signage and through its Web site. The discount retailer carries products sold under labels such as Jaclyn Smith, Joe Boxer, Route 66 and Martha Stewart Everyday.

SAM’S CLUB Percentage: 5 Sam’s Club, a division of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., is the nation’s largest warehouse chain. Coming this week for the retailer: the annual Holiday Taste of Sam’s Club event, held from Nov. 17 to 19, where menu, recipe and gift-giving ideas for entertaining will be on tap. Earlier this month, 10 Sam’s revealed its 2006 holiday catalogue, which included one-of-a-kind gift options, such as the Tranquility 7-Person Spa for $3,998, or an 18-carat Tanzanite diamond necklace — priced at $28,000.

SOURCE: UNITY MARKETING; THE SURVEY TRACKED OVER 700 GIFT-GIVERS (AVERAGE AGE: 43 YEARS, AVERAGE HOUSEHOLD INCOME: $61,700); PAM DANZIGER IS ALSO THE AUTHOR OF “SHOPPING: WHY WE LOVE IT AND HOW RETAILERS CAN CREATE THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE”; *INDICATES A TIE trends into knowledge. intoknowledge. trends numbers andsportswear news,Globally translating Close: Issue:Next executive, Milan,executive, at39-02-7600-3926. director, advertising Paris, European at+33-1-44-51-13-03, Haynes, Elizabeth orElenaDeGiuli, account New York, at212-630-4636; at323-965-7283; Levy, executive, Coast, senior account West Deborah publisher, GusFloris,associate For information, more contact denim and young contemporary, December 12 January 19January Bread &Butter Bread Bread &Butter Bread Fairchild Bonus Bonus Fashion Group distribution at distribution at WWD WWD Style StartsHere ™

PHOTO BY JENNIFER LIVINGSTON 16 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 WWD.COM Limited Buys La Senza for $628M

Continued from page one in the U.S. and to use La Senza to grow internationally.” that sells both intimates and apparel. The Limited hasn’t made a major acquisition since Limited revealed the acquisition after the market the mid-Eighties. Starting in 1998 with Abercrombie & closed and at the same time reported a swing to a third- Fitch, the company began divesting itself of portions of quarter profi t from a loss a year earlier. For the quarter its business, either selling brands or spinning them off ended Oct. 28, Limited posted net income of $23.5 mil- into independent companies. Limited Too was spun off in lion, or 6 cents a diluted share, which compares with a 1999, and Lane Bryant was sold to Charming Shoppes in prior-year loss of $683,000. Sales leaped 12 percent to 2001. In 2002, Lerner New York and New York & Co. were $2.1 billion from $1.96 billion. sold. The company also sold off its interests in Galyan’s Wexner, the chairman and chief executive offi cer of Trading company and Alliance Data Systems, in 2004 and Limited Brands, said in a statement that the La Senza 2003, respectively. deal, which is set to close in January, “is all about Intimate Brands, which encompasses Victoria’s achieving growth for two companies that share similar Secret and Bath & Body Works, was established as an in- values. La Senza is a very well run business, and we dependent company in 1995 but rejoined The Limited to look forward to partnering with its management team, form its current incarnation in 2002. Today, these brands who will continue to operate the company in the normal make up the largest divisions of the company. Recently, course of business.” the retailer has focused more on extending and expand- The transaction caught the market by surprise. At ing its existing brands. the bell, shares of the retailer dropped 0.7 percent to “Our initial focus is to sup- Leslie H. $31.78 but were off 5 percent in the hour after the mar- port La Senza on their growth Wexner ket closed. The Limited said the price tag represented plans and use it as a platform a premium of 47.8 percent over La Senza’s closing price to learn about international on the Toronto Stock Exchange. business,” said chief fi nancial “La Senza is a great strategic fi t with our intimate ap- offi cer Martyn Redgrave on parel business, and their international infrastructure, real the conference call. “Beyond estate expertise and operating model will also be great as- that, I expect we will be able sets to us as we look to enhance our capabilities to meet our to take advantage of the plat- strategic growth initiatives internationally,” Wexner added. form and not only take La The company said the acquisition will be “modestly Senza further internation- accretive” to Limited Brands’ earnings per share in 2007. ally but crack the code to the Banc of America Securities and Financo Inc. served as fi - international expansion of nancial advisers on the transaction. Victoria’s Secret.” “This gives The Limited a second intimate apparel Limited has been extreme- Models in La Senza lingerie. brand with global recognition. The international infra- ly cautious over the years structure will allow The Limited to create a truly global about international expan- intimate apparel company,” said Gilbert Harrison, chair- sion. The only international Regarding its quarterly results, the company man of Financo. retailer it owned before this said total same-store sales increased 10 percent. Harrison said his company introduced Irv was the small personal care Results were buoyed by solid sales at Victoria’s Teitelbaum, chairman and ceo of La Senza, to Wexner chain Penhaligon’s, which Wexner bought in the Eighties Secret and Bath & Body Works, which reported comps and Len Schlessinger, chief operating offi cer of The and subsequently sold. Earlier this year, during a WWD of 17 percent and 15 percent, respectively. Limited, in 2004, but that “serious discussions” didn’t Beauty Summit, Wexner said he expects to “double our For the nine-month period, earnings increased 44 start until last summer. beauty and cosmetics business in the next fi ve years in percent to $236 million, or 59 cents a diluted share, from La Senza once had stores in the U.S., but they were shut- the lower 48 states. We’re not really excited about Hawaii $164.1 million, or 40 cents, in the year-ago period. Sales tered. Harrison doesn’t rule out the possibility of La Senza and even Alaska. We’re Midwesterners, and that’s where jumped to $6.65 billion from $6.16 billion. stores in the U.S. at some later date. “For now, however, The we think our growth is. We think the industry is going to Limited expects fourth-quarter earnings in the range Limited has a huge platform to grow its Victoria’s Secret brand grow enormously.” of $1.07 to $1.14 per share.

GUCCI GOOD WORKS: In another increasingly popular union of Hollywood, fashion and Fashion Scoops charity, Jennifer Connelly hung out in Gucci’s Acquisition Weighs on Talbots Net Madison Avenue store Wednesday night to By Vicki M. Young negative throughout the third quar- promote the Italian design house’s campaign to benefi t UNICEF, providing education and other ter. However, since we closed the vital services to children in Mozambique — this following a partnership last year to help Malawi. As NEW YORK — Despite robust sales, acquisition in May, we have experi- the honorary global representative of this year’s campaign, the Oscar-winning actress wore a black The Talbots Inc.’s third-quarter earn- enced a modest improvement in our Gucci dress and refl ected on the months she spent in Mozambique earlier this year. Gucci creative ings were weighted by acquisition quarterly sales results,” said Arnold director Frida Giannini designed a special 15-item accessories collection for the cause, and from costs connected to its purchase of the B. Zetcher, chairman, president and Nov. 21 to Dec. 31, 20 percent of the sales of those pieces will benefi t UNICEF. The collection J. Jill specialty chain in May. chief executive offi cer, on a confer- includes bags with a new print, Flora Joy, that is a seasonal take on Gucci’s iconic Flora print. For the three months ended Oct. ence call with analysts. 28, net income fell 59.7 percent to $8 The ceo said sales of the Talbots- FASHION THRILLER: Topshop mogul Philip Green treated Michael Jackson to an impromptu midnight million, or 15 cents a diluted share, brand merchandise were healthy in shopping spree in London on Monday. Green, who’d met Jackson at a dinner that evening hosted from $20 million, or 37 cents, in the August, with September particularly by organizers of the World Music Awards, opened Topshop’s Oxford Street fl agship especially same year-ago quarter. The results robust compared with the past few for the singer, who was in town to perform at the awards ceremony. A spokeswoman for Topshop were in line with Wall Street’s con- years in which the company consis- confi rmed Jackson’s visit, but would not say what the singer purchased. With reports of Jackson’s sensus expectations of 15 cents a tently underperformed in September. escalating personal debt, perhaps he’s curbing his enthusiasm for sparkly couture in favor of more share. Excluding acquisition-related He attributed the change to a well- affordable fashion. costs and stock option expense, earn- balanced assortment of updated mod- ings per diluted share would have ern, classic merchandise. In addition, BOSS’ ART SHINDIG: Fashion and the arts, once curious of been 35 cents for the combined com- the company made changes to its one another, are clearly heading for a close relationship. On pany compared with 37 cents posted merchandise fl ow at Talbots, such as Tuesday night, Hugo Boss underscored that point when it last year just for the Talbots brand. an adjustment to its promotional cal- hosted its Hugo Boss Prize party, which honors emerging Total sales for the combined com- endar for the third quarter, which re- artists. For the occasion, the German company turned the pany rose 33.4 percent to $568.6 mil- sulted in robust regular-price selling. Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum into a late-night rave lion from $426.3 million. By brand, “Our new clearance event, which party replete with blaring popular dance music, fl owing retail sales for Talbots rose by 5.5 began mid-August, was also successful booze and masses of people, many of whom hung out percent to $383 million from $363 in moving transitional merchandise in outside for a smoke. Inside, Dustin Hoffman, Dennis Hopper, million and were $77 million for J. a relevant manner. We entered the fall Damien Loeb and Jay McInerney crowded the main fl oor Jill. Sales for the J. Jill brand repre- selling season with clean inventories along with fashion types like Derek Lam and Peter Som, and sent 20 percent of the total combined and pushed back the start of [our] tra- social types like Valesca Guerrand-Hermès, Muffi e Potter company’s volume. Same-store sales ditional midseason sale to one week Aston and Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos. This year, artist Tacita rose 2.3 percent, with same-store later in the period, gaining an addi- Dean took home the Bozz Prize, winning a solo exhibit at the sales at Talbots rising 4 percent and tional week of regular-price selling in Guggenheim in March and $50,000. declining 6.6 percent for J. Jill. September,” Zetcher said. For the nine months, net income fell While there was some give-back FACE TIME: Carolina Herrera Jr., creative consultant for CH 57 percent to $31.6 million, or 59 cents in sales in October because of the Carolina Herrera and Herrera fragrances, will be wearing a diluted share, from $73.4 million, strength in sales in September, Zetcher another hat next season: model. Word has it she’s been or $1.35, in the same year-ago period. told analysts that the company be- tapped as the star of Herrera’s spring campaign, to be shot Consolidated sales gained 20.5 percent lieves that the initiatives put in place later this week by Mario Sorrenti, who is also new to the to $1.59 billion from $1.32 billion. were the right ones and will continue Dustin and Lisa Hoffman house. “Our major Talbots’ brand growth to benefi t the fi rm over the long term. at the Hugo Boss party. vehicle, Talbots’ Woman large-size Zetcher, who said that the stores, WINDS OF CHANGE: Cue Enya’s “Orinoco Flow.” For the concept, continues to be our stron- catalogue and Web site are now fully next exhibition at the Espace Louis Vuitton gallery in gest performer with comps increas- set for holiday at Talbots and J. Jill, Paris, the luxury giant plans to sail away with a yachting theme. Opening Jan. 16, “Winds and ing 5 percent in the quarter and 8.2 reconfi rmed the company’s expecta- Sails” will feature images by some of the top marine photographers as well as seafaring works by percent for the year-to-date....Turning tion that the J. Jill transaction will be contemporary artists such as Ange Leccia. The display is part of the buildup to the Louis Vuitton to the J. Jill brand, sales trends were accretive to earnings in fi scal 2007. Cup sailing race, which kicks off in Valencia, Spain, on April 16. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 17 WWD.COM Aeffe Buys 20 Percent Legal Momentum Fete Raises $1.2M Stake Back from Bank NEW YORK — Legal Momentum’s Equal Opportunity Awards Dinner Tuesday night was By Luisa Zargani the Cheap and Chic line. “It the organization’s most successful ever, drawing was a priority for us at the time 615 people to the Grand Hyatt here and raising MILAN — Aeffe, which controls to consolidate the relationship $1.2 million for the cause. the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and with Moschino,” said Ferretti, Legal Momentum works to advance the rights Pollini brands, said Wednesday referring to the opportunity of and opportunities of women and girls. it has bought back a 20 percent purchasing that brand in 1999. Among this year’s honorees was Karen stake in the group from merchant As for future agreements, Katz, president and chief executive offi cer of bank San Paolo IMI. San Paolo sources here indicate Aeffe is Neiman Marcus Stores, who received the Equal bought the stake in Aeffe in 2000. poised to ink a deal with Dsquared Opportunity Award. She’s held the top job at Karen Katz “The market is very favor- to produce and distribute the Neiman’s since December 2002. with her son, able, Aeffe is growing well and brand’s footwear collection. Neiman Marcus was co-founded by Carrie Alex, and we wanted to be more autono- Ferretti was particularly Marcus, who opened the fi rst Neiman’s in Dallas husband, Alan. mous in order to directly decide upbeat about business in 2006, in 1907 with her husband, Abraham Lincoln and manage our future strate- a year that registered a 34 per- Neiman. She and her brother did the buying and gies,” said Massimo Ferretti, cent increase in pretax profi ts to her husband ran the advertising and sales. “From chairman of the company, who, 12.3 million euros, or $15.4 mil- the time of our founding, women have played very with his sister Alberta, now con- lion at current exchange, com- important roles at Neiman Marcus,” said Katz. trols 100 percent of Aeffe. pared with the previous year, Stephen J. Dannhauser Esq., chairman of While Aeffe’s original plan in on a 6 percent increase in sales Weil, Gotshal & Manges, received the fi rst-ever 2000 was to do an initial public to more than 260 million euros, Champion for Diversity Award and the fi rm was offering, Ferretti said now, “The or $325 million. “We’ve already cited as the fi rst major law fi rm in New York to stock market is not a priority.” booked our orders for spring/ introduce a diversity program. In that spirit, Linda A. Willett, board chair Ferretti, who declined to pro- summer 2007, which shows a 14 Dannhauser said the majority of candidates cur- Stephen J. of Legal Momentum, with vide a fi gure for the transaction percent hike,” said Ferretti. rently being recommended for partnerships Dannhauser Esq. Lloyd G. Trotter. with the bank, said San Paolo Earnings before interest, in his law fi rm are women. “We worked hard to “contributed to the growth of the taxes, depreciation and amor- bring diversity to a real, real higher level. We’ve company,” helping Aeffe take tization rose 8 percent to 30.9 had a long relationship with Legal Momentum,” control of Moschino in 1999 and million euros, or $38.6 million. Dannhauser said. Pollini in 2001. Aeffe developed Ferretti attributed the results to Others receiving awards at the dinner were the Pollini accessories brand into a reorganization of the company, Michele Coleman Mayes, senior vice president a ready-to-wear collection, which additional group synergies and and general counsel of Pitney Bowes Inc., and Neiman’s is designed by Rifat Ozbek. a “signifi cant improvement in Lloyd G. Trotter, vice chairman of GE and presi- Ken “We needed to acquire the retail division.” dent and ceo of GE Industrial. “At GE, we didn’t Downing Pollini’s know-how,” said Ferretti said the company is in- always bring good things to light.” But the attitude with Ferretti, referring to that com- vesting in new stores around the toward advancing women to top jobs has changed, Nicole pany’s production of accessories world, in particular in emerging he added. “Four of our seven ‘P and L’ [profi t and Miller for the brands under the Aeffe markets, which are “increasingly loss] leaders are women, and they’re controlling and Bud umbrella. Pollini also has licens- important for us.” In 2007, Aeffe $18 billion in revenues.” Konheim.

ing deals with Narciso Rodriguez will open Alberta Ferretti bou- — David Moin JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY and Jean Paul Gaultier. tiques in Beijing and New Delhi, Aeffe started producing Moschino boutiques in New Delhi Moschino under license in 1983, and Istanbul, and Pollini stores in and, fi ve years later, launched St. Petersburg and Moscow. Report Cites China, India As Top ’05 Export Gainers By John Zarocostas gained 20 percent to $3.1 billion; Bangladesh was ahead 20 percent GENEVA — China and India to $2.5 billion; Cambodia was up reported the biggest gains in 20 percent to $1.8 billion, and Haiti textiles and apparel exports rose 24 percent to $415 million. GOES EVERYWHERE YOU GO. in 2005, the first year in which Suppliers that experienced global quotas were lifted, a setbacks in exports to the U.S. World Trade Organization re- included Mexico, which regis- port said. Many Latin American tered a 9 percent drop to $6.3 and African suppliers, and some billion and Honduras, down 2 Asian countries, had declines. percent to $2.7 billion. The survey, “International Apparel exports to the U.S. Trade Statistics, 2006,” revealed from sub-Saharan African coun- that growth in textiles and ap- tries also had declines, with parel exports was substantially shipments from Lesotho down less than the average product 15 percent to $408 million. category increase of 13 percent. The biggest declines were re- Global apparel exports in value ported by South Korea, 36 per- terms increased 4 percent to cent, and Taiwan, 26 percent. $276 billion. Textile exports rose The WTO study showed a 13 Get all of this and so much more. 4 percent to $203 billion. The percent fall in apparel exports overall value of global merchan- from Canada to the U.S. and a 6 dise trade reached $10.1 trillion. percent contraction in shipments • 5 days a week Monday through Friday China was ranked the largest originating from the EU. The re- • Morning hand-delivery* exporter of apparel, with ship- port also concluded that China ments valued at $74.1 billion, up and India achieved the biggest • Color photographs 26.9 percent, followed by Hong increases in the EU market, with Kong, with an 8 percent boost to apparel shipments from China ad- • WWDSCOOP (4 issues per year) $27.2 billion, and the European vancing 43 percent to $23 billion Union, with shipments gaining 15 and India gaining 27 percent. • Spring and Fall issues of WWD The Magazine percent to $22.6 billion. Turkey was The report data also clearly in fourth place with $11.8 billion in outlined, however, that a number • Annual market supplements goods, up 18 percent, followed by of traditional EU suppliers re- India with $8.2 billion, a 25 percent ported falls in exports. These in- increase, the WTO report said. cluded Tunisia, down 6 percent; China’s apparel exports to Morocco, 7 percent; Romania, the U.S. reached $21.1 billion, 6 percent; Egypt, 3 percent; Subscribe to WWD today! a 47 percent increase, and ac- Bangladesh, 5 percent; Mauritius, Simply call 1-800-289-0273 or 1-818-487-4526. counted for 26.4 percent share 14 percent; Pakistan, 12 percent, of the U.S. market, it said. and Sri Lanka, 2 percent. You can also subscribe online at www.subnow.com/wd/ad Other big gains in apparel Again, the biggest falls among exports to the U.S. were posted established suppliers were by *Buildings in NYC with delivery access only. by India, with shipments up 33 South Korea, down 45 percent, percent to $3.3 billion; Indonesia and Taiwan, down 34 percent. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

BRIGGS NEW YORK

The First Finish offers a creative forum for denim A major women’s Sportswear Company designers to work hand in hand with the creators is looking for an experienced & energetic professional. of finishes, allowing them to achieve new finishes or perform testing required in the design and DESIGN DIRECTOR MISSY-KNITS pre-production stage of denim and denim related garment GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO JOIN OUR TEAM manufacturing. Customers working with off shore Your primary role is to direct a large design team to producers find our services most convenient and practical. Our services execute the planning of updated lines and develop private label collections. SOURCING COORDINATOR - Candidate should have vast are geared to assist in the incubation of new brands and production knowledge of fabrications & garment construction required from sourcing for larger companies. Candidate must have 7-10 years proven management pre-production thru final production. Work closely with Design & experience in apparel and private label design. Ability Merch Dept, as well as follow up w/overseas offices & factories. Our Services Include: to build and motivate an enthusiastic knits and • Wash/Finish Development • Sample Duplication wovens design team to meet timelines is necessary. CAD - Must be proficient in Photoshop Illustrator (knowledge • Wash Formulation • Chemical Sales and Technical Service Individual needs to interpret trends and key items. of Primavision a plus) exp. required on technical sketches, be • Contractor/Manufacturer Sourcing in US and Mexico This exciting position will offer the right candidate able to construct y/d stripes, plaids/ prints & place in repeat. For more info. visit us @ www.thefirstfinish.com or the opportunity to work in a dynamic and fast paced SALES - Min 5 yrs exp self-starter w/proven track record in Knits. contact us at 310-631-6717 X106 environment. € EXCELLENT BENEFITS € Position based in Boston w/ travel to New York. E-mail: [email protected] or Fax: 212-382-1469 We offer a great work environment, PATTERN/SAMPLES excellent salary and benefit package. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Please E-mail resume: [email protected] CAD DESIGNER or Fax: (617) 783-4395 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DEPA INT’L, INC. - DCC PRODUCTIONS Design All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Chargeback/Specialist Fast paced, high energy, growing Seeks a talented CAD Designer Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Est’d mfr seeks C/B specialist w/min 3 with strong skills, Proficiency in yrs exp in APPAREL ONLY to join our Women’s Apparel Co seeks: Account Executives fast growing team. Must have strong Sportswear Designer Illustrator & PhotoShop, Ability to PATTERNS, SAMPLES, CHILDREN’S WEAR commun/ comp skills, be aggressive in with min 3 yrs exp in Sportswear design print/stripes, knowledge Vol #1 J.T.B. Cocomo Apparel pursing customer deductions. Must design. Exp w/ cut & sew knits and PRODUCTIONS We are a rapidly growing company and GRAPHIC of Style-way. Must be a team Full service shop to the trade. have exp in dealing w/ majors (JCP, woven tops a must. Must have strong player, willing and able to work Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. a leader in trend sportswear in all Kohls, Fed) Resp: resolution of C/B, computer illustrator skills, be a self- major stores. We are looking for key follow-up of RA’s, POD’s, posting of C/R, starter who thrives in a fast paced DESIGNERS with tight deadlines. 2-3 yrs exp. account executives with major store cust service calls. Great atmosphere & environment. Great opportunity for Great work environment with PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD and chain following to launch our new benefits! Fax resume: 212-221-1353 growth. Excellent benefits package. Seeking creative individuals High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- kids’ division (girls 7-14). You must Email resume: to work with design team excellent oppty’s for growth sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 have a strong following & the ability to [email protected] or on Juniors and girls 7-16 Email: [email protected] merchandise & run your own division. Fax : 212 827 3344 Attn: KS Please fax resume to 212-398-5177 denim collections. Attn: Charles Marino (President) CHILDREN’S COMPUTER DRAPER Min1-2 years apparel expe- Product Manager Accounting & Finance Designer Eveningwear. 10+ years exp. rience. MAC Photoshop & Leading women’s apparel co seeks Fast-paced, good salary/benefits. Illustrator skills a must. prod mgr w/ min 5 yrs exp in overseas Professionals ARTIST Please fax info to (212) 463-8224 production, labdip approvls, trim Major Childrenswear Company seeks a approvls, product development. Com- Better Wmn’s Sportswear Business Are you currently working within the talented & experienced Girls Artist to Excellent salary, benefits For Sale. Well est’d NYC base business Retail, Wholesale, or Luxury Fashion Fabric Coordinator puter literate good communicator work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must and a great working both - written and oral. w/large existing customer base & exp’d. industry & looking to take the next step be able to draw flats, create prints, Fabric Stylist environment. sales force. Pls call: 646-752-8727 in your career? We are actively recruiting plaids, appliques and embroideries. talented individuals for Accounting, Production Coord Min 2 years experience in Girls appa- ECI New York Please e-mail resume to: Min 2-3 yrs exp. Import exp a plus. Analyst, Controller, & CFO positions rel. Need to see a strong portfolio that A better manufacturer of Women’s in the NYC area! Our clients range fro m [email protected] or Computer literate and detail oriented. includes boards. Good working condi- Branded & Private Label Sportswear Great atmosphere, great sal w/package int’l firms to publicly held $1B tions plus benefits. and Dresses currently has career fax to: (212) 354 - 4418. corporations. To learn more about Avail immediate. Email resume: Email resumes to: opportunities available. [email protected] specific opportunities, contact: [email protected] [email protected] Must be exp’d in fabric development with overseas factories. Responsible Design for recoloring prints, managing textile Production Dept SAMPLEMAKER - Couture Administrative Asst. artists, identifying fabric and color Vol #1 J.T.B. Cocomo Apparel Women’s Couture Company seeking European Fashion Company seeks Assistant Designer trends and developing fabric with We are currently looking for several highly skilled Samplemakers. Talents experienced Administrative Assistant Major Apparel Co located in NY seeks overseas vendors. Must have contacts experienced people in our preproduc- must include: knowledge of all high end who is highly motivated/detail oriented detailed oriented and organized indi- with domestic, Asian, and European tion dept. Individuals should have at fabrics, cutting, eveningwear, tailoring, Showrooms & Lofts individual. Computer savvy in Microsoft vidual. Illustrator and Photoshop a fabric mills. corsetry, & all hand finishings, including BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS least 3 years experience and have total Office (Excel, Word, Powerpoint, Out- must. Strong written and verbal com- Email: [email protected] knowledge and understanding involved appliqué. Great opportunity for the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail look). Knowledge of Adobe programs munication. Entry level to 1 yr exp. Fax:212-382-0237 right individual. E-mail resume to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 in all preproduction issues. Time and such as Acrobat and Photoshop a plus. Fax resume: Attn: Aida 212-768-3588 action calendar, fit and fabric trim [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th approvals, monitoring from start to SAMPLEMAKERS 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built or Fax resume to: (212) 246-0034 finish in a highly detail organized Merchandiser/Designer manner. You must be computer liter- 6 yrs exp in designer /couture evening- Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 wear. Chiffon & delicate fabrics. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com ALLOCATION/ DESIGN ASSISTANT/ Established intimate apparel company ate. Knowledge of Korean & Chinese looking for energetic and motivated as 2nd language a plus. Fax all resumes Please call: 212-764-0840 CUSTOMER JR. FIT MODEL sleepwear merchandiser/designer. 2-3 to: 212-398-5177 Attn: Charles Marino. SERVICE REP Leading importer of knits and years experience and CAD experience SAMPLE MAKER MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP sweaters is looking for a full-time a must. Fax resumes to (212) 689-4082 Women’s Couture Company seeks highly Seeks candidates that can work directly Design Assistant/Jr Model: skilled exp’d individual. Knowledge of all types of fabrics. Emphasis on with sales on allocation reports, Bust 35” – Waist 27” – Height 5’7” Production Manager customer service & order editing. Must Merchandiser/Designer evening. Stable F/T position. Great Oppty! Showroom & Office Sublet Bra Size 34B – Low Hip 37” Large accessories co seeks Merchan- Contemporary clothing line seeks an Call (212) 869-2296 or have at least 3-5 years exp. in apparel. Great salary & benefits with opportunity exp’d, motivated, individual to take charge 37th & 7th Ave. 3000 Sq. Ft. Showroom & E-mail resumes to: diser / Designer to head up product Fax resume (212) 869-2236 Office - Fully Built. Rent below current for growth. Must be computer literate. development dept. for large costume of all aspects of domestic production. [email protected] Fax resume to VP Design: 212-221-8569 Must be hands on and detail-oriented. market price. Call 646-752-8727 or Fax to: 509-757-7814 jewelry div. Must have 3-5 years exp including overseas travel. Fax resume: Fax/email resume to (212) 947-6480, Swimwear Sample Cutter 212-302-2753 [email protected] F/T position for an individual exp’d in ASSISTANT DESIGNER Design Attn: Human Resources. dealing with stretch fabrics. Swimwear Leading better separates co. looking for exp. a plus. Call Roberto at: 212-398-7290 organized, motivated, creative firecracker Operations Manager willing to do whatever it takes. Must High end mid size Acc manufacturer Tech Designer/Patternmaker to $100K. have 2 yrs exp working with China, seeks hands on exec to oversee all PRODUCTION OPPTYS Current exp in womens dresses/ drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical Asst. Footwear Designer back office functions (data entry,cust Est’d Missy Contemporary Co seeks: sprtswr, missy. Send tech pkgs to Far packages, EMB layouts. Fax resume to: Branded footwear co. seeks asst. dsgn. serv, inventory ctrl, factory personnel Production Patternmaker East. Involve w/ fittings of fully lined 212-302-3872 / MRS. KRAMPF for sandals, slippers & shoes. Must have management etc). Must have min 5yrs beaded dresses. Georgettes. Call 973- Large private label div seeks pattern 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] following skills: organized, illustration, Operations exp plus full command of maker w/ min 3 yrs exp to work from BILLING quick sketching, tech. spec. drawing, EDI & Dept Store regulations. A proven Tech Pak, give sewing instructions & Established garment manu. requires Photoshop and clerical skills. Bronx loc., track record in a leadership position have knowledge of factory procedures. Tech Designers Needed billing/data entry person with some close to public transportation & parking, for MFG, prof attitude with exec verbal Production Coordinator EDI exp. Please fax: 212-382-3623. developed business district. Great oppty & written communication skills a Junior Knit TD…………...... $65K for growth. Send resume to: 718-620-3600 must. No travel req. Would interface w/ Min 3 yrs exp. Import production re- *5+ Yrs Exp Required* or [email protected] dom and foreign production. sponsibilities incl: prepare prod status Jr Sweater Tech Assist…...... $40K reports, follow the time & action calen- Buyer Email resume w/ salary req to: *1 Yr Exp Required* [email protected] dar to insure deliveries, follow up on EXPERIENCED BUYER "DESIGNER ASSISTANTS" all aspects of approval process. Profi- E-Mail: [email protected] Missy or Jr. or Contemporary Sptswr cient in Outlook/Excel with excellent KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Men’s Wear/Ladies’ Apparel/Children’s 1-2yrs Exp-Illustrator-Photoshop comm skills. Store contact exp a plus. Wear. Fax resume to: 201-943-4290 PATTERNMAKER Call (212)643-8090-Fax 643-8127 (agcy) COUTURE P/T,F/T Production Associate 1st and production pattern. 6 yrs exp Min 2 yrs exp. Domestic prod responsi- Technical Designer BUYER / WOMEN’S draping and working with design bilities incl: processing new orders, room. Fax resume and salary to: 212-398-6185 order & traffic fabric & trim, write cut- Dynamic Childrenswear Co seeks Tech DESIGNER RTW DESIGNER ting tickets, work closely w/ tri state Designer with 2+yrs experience. Must Luxury designer fashion brand seeks a factories & maintain prod status report. have experience in patternmaking and seasoned Buyer for their women’s con- Leading woven Blouse Company seeks Great Co. atmosphere! Great benefits! grading. Comp skills essential, Web PDM creative and highly motivated head temporary collection. Must have at Production Assistant Fax your resume to: 212-221-1353 exp. preferred. We offer a generous least 6 years exp. buying for stores and designer. Our candidate has five years compensation package including health / of moderate design experience along Seeking highly motivated person to strong fashion sense. Outstanding worked in our Production Dept. dental / 401K, vacation+personal days. analytical skills a must. Salary $100K+ with a well-developed knowledge of If interested, please email resume to fashion trends and fit. Responsibilities Computer literate with good follow-up Production/ Sales Assist: w/bonus and great benefits. Email skills. typing skill of 45 WPM, knowl- [email protected] res: [email protected] include; establishment of line plans, Pvt. Label - Ladies div.of large Co. mfg’s fabric sourcing, developing seasonal edge of garment and fabric preferred casual spst. specializing in denim & non color palettes, prints; initiating tech but not necessary. Company paid denim. 2 yrs exp req, must be able to TECHNICAL DESIGNER packs & first sketches, & communicating benefits. Fax# (212)209-4406 multi task, organize, be a team player & Well est’d women’s apparel importer CAD DESIGNER with the Far East. Outlook, word and desire to succeed. Verbal, writing and seeks exp’ d, efficient candidate. Pattern Perm opportunities available ASAP! excel required. Join a hard working computer skills req. Track production making/private lbl exp a plus, excel Photoshop/Illust a must. Highly organ- team in a pleasant work environment, PRODUCTION submits, shipping, prd dev communicate experts. strong communication skill in ized. Able to create bodies, original excellent benefits, 401K & competitive *Coord Better Woven Sprtwr $45-70K w/overseas office & customers. Great fit corrections, grading, technical prints and embroidery layouts. Email salary; Email Resume to: *Source Coord Bi-Ling Chinese $55K oppty! Email resume to: sketch. Team player. Great oppty! resume to: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 [email protected] Please fax to (212) 302-3872 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2006 19 WWD.COM Merrell Expands Into Active By Khanh T.L. Tran comes two years after Merrell started a Ferré Helps Boost IT Holding Sales bag business with messenger bags, back- LOS ANGELES — Merrell, the outdoor packs and wheeled luggage. By Luisa Zargani accounted for 17 percent of sales. IT shoe brand that is a more common sight Leading the 16-member product de- Holding’s production of young lines for on the hiking trail than the runway, is sign and development team is Tobin MILAN — A 40.4 percent increase in re- the D&G, Just Cavalli, Versace Jeans jumping into the increasingly competi- Teichgraeber, the former vice president tail revenues at Gianfranco Ferré and a Couture, Versus, Extè and C’N’C’ brands tive active apparel market. of product development at Helly Hansen, 45.9 percent hike in its accessories busi- accounted for the bulk of revenues — a Norwegian-based maker of outdoor ness helped IT Holding stay in the black 59.7 percent, or 345.7 million euros, or clothing that has U.S. offi ces in Seattle. and post double-digit growth in sales in $442.4 million. Now we can dress As creative director, Teichgraeber su- the first nine months of the year. Last year, Dolce & Gabbana severed “ pervises a staff that came from Burberry, The company, which controls the its 12-year partnership with IT Holding people from head to toe. O’Neill, Modern Amusement, Juicy Ferré, Malo and Extè brands, posted a for D&G, taking production of the diffu- Couture, The North Face and Marmot. net profi t of 3 million euros, or $3.8 mil- sion line in-house. IT Holding’s produc- We all know retailers Maintaining a strategy to bring fash- lion, compared with a year-earlier loss of tion contract for D&G ended with the fall ion to the outdoors, Merrell said it will 10.5 million euros, or $13.4 million. 2006 season. The fi rm has since inked a prefer to buy from exhibit its clothes at trade events, start- The company started its return to prof- production deal for John Galliano’s new ing with Bread & Butter in Barcelona itability in the fi rst quarter of the year. diffusion line, Galliano, starting with the complete brands. in December, Outdoor Retailer in Salt Sales grew to 579 million euros, or spring 2007 collection. ” Lake City in January and Project Global $741.1 million, up 11.7 percent from 518.3 In the period ended Sept. 30, the Ferré — Tobin Teichgraeber, Merrell Tradeshow in Las Vegas and Ispo in million euros, or $663.4 million, in the brand accounted for 15.5 percent of sales, Munich, both in February. same period a year ago. Dollar fi gures or 89.8 million euros ($114.9 million), fol- The Portland, Ore.-based subsidiary Teichgraeber declined to provide were converted from the euro at the cur- lowed by Malo, which represented 6.8 of Wolverine World Wide Inc. plans to sales forecasts for the apparel business. rent exchange rate. percent of sales, or 39.4 million euros launch its fi rst line of women’s clothing “We expect it to be a signifi cant part In a statement, Tonino Perna, chair- ($50.4 million). Malo is currently engaged next fall. The 50 styles will range from of our business in the future,” he said. man of the group, said: “The strong re- in shedding its historical image as a cash- hats and scarves made of sustainable “Now we can dress people from head to sults achieved in the fi rst nine months of mere knitwear brand and expanding it to merino wool to a double-weave soft- toe. We all know retailers prefer to buy the year and the orders received for the a more contemporary collection with the shell foam jacket and a fully waterproof from complete brands.” fall/winter 2006/2007 and spring/summer help of designers Tommaso Aquilano and car coat. With a focus on eco-friendly Founded more than 20 years ago and 2007 seasons allow us to confi rm the pre- Roberto Rimondi of the 6267 line, tapped fabrics and eye-catching hues such as acquired by Wolverine in 1997, Merrell viously announced expectations for the last summer. plum, scarlet and a bright blue dubbed opened its fi rst store in the U.S. on Long full fi nancial year.” Geographically, Italy continued to “pool,” the line will retail from $25 for Island in New York last year. It also has IT Holding attributed the expansion be the group’s main market, with sales an organic cotton T-shirt to $400 for a a branded store in Frankfurt and 870 of its accessories business to the suc- growing 20.7 percent and accounting for performance Gore-Tex shell jacket. shop-in-shops worldwide. cess of the new Plus IT franchise stores, 45.8 percent of revenues. The remainder Joining a growing circle of shoe com- Wolverine World Wide, based in which regroup accessories produced by of Europe followed, accounting for 32.1 panies that have expanded into apparel, Rockford, Mich., owns other brands the company for the D&G, Just Cavalli, percent of sales and showing a 5 percent Merrell will compete against athletic including Hush Puppies and Sebago, Versace Jeans Couture, Versus, Extè, growth in the period compared to the heavyweights such as Nike, Puma and and produces footwear under license C’N’C’ and GF Ferré brands. The Plus same period last year. Sales in the rest of Adidas, and seasoned outdoor clothiers for companies such as Patagonia and IT stores were launched in the fall of the world grew 17 percent to 119.6 mil- including Columbia, The North Face Harley-Davidson. Wolverine posted rev- 2005 and now total 32 units. Accessories lion euros, or $153 million. and Patagonia. The move into apparel enue of $1.06 billion last year.

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