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· A~sisiance to member states for the preservation of cultural her.i Lu,;,.

Draft inventory of historic morrn1r1(~11 l ;; . Province, Afghanistan.

by Flemming Aalund ' · (. R . Q_ r ;:. 0 a: Al\lCC \Y ~ f <;IA.ti•\hPC United. Nations Educati1 ,1 kd, \:Jt:G Scientific and Cultural Organization I , DRAFT

Up-dated inventory of historic monuments, Her~t Province, Afghanistan

Report prepared for the Government of Afghanistan by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco).

by Flenuning Aalund

Februarx 1990.

The frontispiece shows the facade of the Ghorid madrassa Shah-i Mashad, survey October 1977 by F. Aalund. LIST OF CONTENT.

Introduction

Draft inventory File no.

Ghorid monuments

Shah-i Mashad 01 Chest-i Sharif. 02 Minaret of Jam. .. ·. 03

Timurid monuments

Qala Ikhtiyar al-Din~ 04 The Musalla ensemble. 05 Gazur Gah ...... 06 Abu 1 1 Valid ...... 07 Abdullah al- Wahid. 08 Shazada Abdullah b. Mu 1 awiyah and Abu 1 1 Qasim. 09 Chehil Sutun ...... 10 ...... 11 Sadr al-din Armani. 12 Barnabad ...... 13 Ziyaratgah ... . 14 Haws-i Karbas...... 15 ...... 16 Kuhs an ...... 17 Qush Ribat. 18

Vernacular architecture and building tradition.

traditional living house .. 19 horizontal windmill.~ ...•. 20 anon~nous caravanseraille. 21 vernacular architecture and housing. • 1 22 INTRODUCTION

1. The historic monuments in the of Afghanistan are a cultural heritage of national as well as international importance. Originating mainly frg_I'!l the I , .. flourishing Ghorid and Tim~rid eras of the 13th and 15th centuries A.D., they represent a cultural achievement of extraordinary beauty and artistic perfection._ \ I :/ i _., • 1,l. 2. It is one'of the grec:;l.t tragedies of fortune that only a minor part of an q.rchitecture, which elicited such admiration from its contemporar~es, have survived. The admirable 'Musalla' ensemble to the nortl1 of H~rat city was destroyed by order of Abd-al Rahman in 1885\ at British insistence. The British advised the destructi9n· ~y artillery fire to prevent the use of the structures as a po,sible shelter by the Russians in the cause of the imperiali~tic warfare between the two powers in Central Asia. Most of the great Timurid monuments in Buchara in Turkestan shared a similpr fate in 1920 during a few days of bombshelling by the Staiinist airforces. The decay of buildings I has been furthered by looting and disrepair, leaving the extant 1/ buildings-~nd rui~s as an\afterglo~ only of the former splendour. \ I .\ 3. Unesco was actively involved in the restoration of historic monuments in the He~at province of Afghanistan from august 1976 to 9~tober 1979 t.;pd~r the framework of the UNDP project AFG/75/022: 'Strenght~eaing Governments Capability for the Preservation of Bistorical\Monuments'. Furthermore, preparations were undertaken for the launching of an Interna­ tional Campaign to assist the A~ghan Government to raise funds for the preservation and presen~~tion of the built cultural heritage of the province. \

4. Most unfortunate these en4eavours came to an abrupt end in 1979 due to the civil war in Afghanistan and the ~onsequent struggle for national· li~eration from the Soviet invafion. During the intermediate ti~e of armed conflict all restoration works has been.stopped.~~~ sad state of affairs has discontinued the training of Afgh~n architects within the field of restoration and put an e·nd tq emergency rescue opera­ tions for structural repairs to ·endang~red monuments. Furthermore, the fighting in the area has caused terrific damage to many of these buildings, whic~ were already in a very critical state of preservation. Lack of ~aintenance has brought the monuments to an even more precarious ,condition. And the habitation and the general housing situation has suffered similar devastation. ' 5. Since the Soviet interventio?>~nformationf on the condition of monuments hav~ been diff1..czult to obtain, but many reports refer to b9!'(\bshelltng in and around the city of Herat and within the pr6vincer:··1t is evident that several monuments have been severely damaged or comp°letely destroyed. The full extent of the damage is not known.

6. The present report is aiming tq provide an overall view of the important builq.ings·· in the province' including up-dated informations on the actual condition of individual buildings to the extent that such informatioRs are available.

7. Several scientific publications on Timurid architecture in Khurasan have -appeared within the last ten years providing a basic documentation and appreciation of the Timurid architecture. The following works are especially important and indispensable reference books comprising extensive bibliographies. (The scientific sources cited in the inventory refer to the bibliography of the Golombek and Wilber publication on Timurid architecture of Iran and Turan.)

(i) Lisa Golombek and Donald Wilber, The Timurid architecture of Iran and Turan, Princeton University Press 1988, vol I-II.

(ii) Bernard O'Kane, Timurid Architecture in Khurasan, Mazda Publishers, ~alifornia 1987.

(iii) G.A.Pougatchenkova, Ch~fs-d'~uvre d'architecture de l'Asie Centrale XIV -XVe siecle, Unesco 1981.

(iv) Terry Allen, A Catalogue of the Toponyms and Monuments of Timurid Herat, Aga Khan Program for Islamic Architecture, Cambridge Mass., 1981.

(v) Rafi Samizay, Islamic Architecture in Herat, Research Section of International Project for Herat Monuments, Ministry of Information and Culture, Afghanistan, 1981.

8. The cursory informations presented in this report can be considered as the starting point for the preparation of a full-fledged and up-dated inventory, which may be instrumental in assisting the responsible Afghan authorities to formulate an operative action plan for the safeguarding of the cultural heritage and secure its reintegration into contemporary socie­ ty. Any step in this direction will demand a good knowledge of the actual condition of the buildings, including a thorough scientific documentation. 6

9. The draft inventory is by no means exhaustive. Only the major monuments appear in the list and there is no mention of monuments and buildings within the old town walls of the city of Herat, except for Qala Iktiarrudin. The town itself will need a special survey, when working possibilities are restored. Preliminary investigations by Afghan scholars are published by Rafi Samizay in the above mentioned publication from 1981, and by Abdul Wasy N_ajimi, Herat, a study in urban conservatio~, Curson Press, London 1988.

10. rn·view of the present situation. in Afghanistan development of infra-structure, h6using and general health condition will call for high·priority of investments. New efforts to preserve the invaluable historic monuments should be concentrated on emergency rescue operations to the most endangered monuments according to mature considerations and priorities. Essentially it will imply (i) structural consolidations, (ii) that the upper surface of roofs are repaired and stay watertight, (iii) that the safety of decorative features, tile mosaics etc. are secured in situ, and (iv) that movable objects and building fragments are safeguarded for later restoration. works or museum purposes. Assuming a successful completion of these immediate measures, restoration proper may be started on individual monuments according to an established.list of priorities.

'-, U·S·S·R / \ ,. i -...... --·,.. . '··,._.""' ' ,,,,..~ ·..._.-.-. '\ ) 0 ...,. 0 ..~ V I •• , . .i ·, shah-i-mashhed I. -·-· '.j .,.. BADGHIS I ,. •KOH SAN J I ,) khush ribal r,,.._r·,J ...... /._j ("' ·..... --.. ___ .----·-·-,, deh minar KARut-·-·-·) i BARNA ABAD\ hauz_-i-kar bas .... _.... I 0 ~---.,GHOAIAN• • • ZINOAJAN• • HER AT. CHESHT-1-SHAAIF ( -·-- ______-· -·-· -..__::•__ ---,-- •JAM I'° "RUBAT-E-PAI 0 ,,.,·~·-·-·-·-·,.,._.,· ,/ i zia ratgah / I / i • I -----~------) ! HERAT ,./ i. ! i ·, GHOR l \ i .,.·/ z ' ·~·~..r·-·-·-·-· ,·-·-·-. ,\i .-

The map shows the location of the major monuments of Ghorid and Timirid origin within the Herat province of Afghanistan (source: Samizay, 1981). TO QUSHRIBAT (Z.6KM)

012

0 'h. KM., TO ZIYARATGAH (20 K~ t\f ap B Sketch :Map of Heraf and Environs 1. Gazur Gah · 7. f\1ausoleum of Daysunghur (6 & 7: 2. Dagh-i Jahan Ara the f\f u~alla complex) 3. f\1asjid-i Jamie 8. f\f adrasah of Sultan Husayn Bayqara 4. Citadel · 9. Shrine of cAbd Allah 5. Kipchak Gate 10. Shrine of Abu al-Qasim 6. ~1osque and Madrasah of 11. Shrine of Abu al-Valid (Azadan) 12. Shrine of cAbd Allah al-\Valfid

(Source: L. Golombek, 1g69.) Province (Wallayat) : Badghis File no.: 01 District (Uluswali) Location of site Near the village of Jawand, on the bank of the Murghab River, about 2 km up river from the mouth of its tributary

Name of monwnent -Shah-i Mashad 'I'ype of building Ghorid Madrassah Date: 561/1165-6 Main features The building represents on of the first known examples of a madrassah with four iwans. Exquisite eample of Gh_orid masonry with deep relief.

Source (1) : Casi~ir and Glatzer, Sah-i Mashad, a recently discovered Madrasah of the Ghurid Period in Gargistan, East and v{est_, Rome , 1 9 71 , pp. 5 3 - 6 8 . Samizay, 1981, pp. 14-15

Studies and reports

Restorations and present conditiqn no recent records.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed Sketch plan and elevation of main facade, survey october 1977, Location sketch plan, Four B/W photos, october 1977, Inventory prepared by: Date Inventory revised by : Date :

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography.

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Shah--i Mashad, detail of masonry, 1977, F.Aalund. $hah-i Mashad, general view of main facade, 1977, F. Aalund.

Mc1shad, Detail of ma·sonry from inside the entrance way, F. l\.1J1rnc1 Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 02 District (Uluswali) Location of site App. 170 kilometres east of the city of Herat along the Hari Rud river. Name of monument Chest-i Sharif Type of building madrasa/Khanaqah Date: 12th cent. A.O. Main features 1wo domed structures are the only remains of a once extended Ghorid building complex with a quadrelateral plan. There are other ruins in the area and an extended graveyard, whose importance will become clear orily after thorou,h archaeological in- vestigations.

Source (1) Samizay, 1981, pp. 16-19.

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition There is no recent records about the actual building condition

Measures for preservation: Structural consolidation is needed, together with a flashing. for the protection of exposed masonry decor.

Documentation enclosed: four B/W photos, 1978.

Inventory prepared by: F. Aalund Date: february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. Clic::; l:- Sitar-if gc1wrlal v:iew frorn north, 1978 (F. Aalund).

Uksl:-i Sh.:.irif, facade of southern ~;truct:u1c, 1978 (F. l\iJlurni). l'·

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Province (Wallayat) Ghor File no.: 03 District (Uluswali) Location of site Jam's minaret is situated in the centre of Afghanistan, 1900 m above sea. level on the bank of the Hari Rud River at the intersection of two deep ·ggorges. Name of monument Minaret of Jam Type of building Ghorid-minaret Date: between 1163 and Main features 1202 A.D The minaret of Jam is a symbol of the Ghorid period of exellent buildings, but also an outstanding monument of the Islamic world in general.

Source (1) A. Bruno, Le minaret de Jam, Afghanistan, MONUMENTUM, no. 3, 1983, pp. 189-200.

A. Marricq and G. Wiet, Le minaret de Jam, tome XVI, Memoires de la q~kga tion archaeologj,gg_e Francaise, Paris, 1959, 90 pages, XVI ill.

Studies and reports:

Restorations and present condition: Intermediate consolidation of the river banks to contain the sur­ rounding water stream was carried out in 1978 as part of the Unesco assistance to Afghanistan for the preservation of historic nonuments.

There is no recent rec6rds of th~ building con~ition.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed two B/W photos, 1978.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date february 1990. Inventory revised by Date:

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. tll Ul rrJ .. D • ....;·i OJ

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The chronology of the various construction periods is not yet verified. Most probably, the plan of the cit~del has been essentially realized before the Timurid period. It is likely that the T1murid work was confined to the extensive redecoration programme, of which the deco­ rative revetment on the NW tower is repre~entative.

Source (1) : Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 301-302 O'Kane, 1987, pp. 115-117. UNDP-Unesco/A. Bruno 1976 (The citadel and minarets of Herat) UNDP/Unesco : Restoration of monuments in Herat, 1981, restricted technical report(FMR/CLT/CH/81/28C) Allen 1981a, no. 51. Lezine 1963, pp. 127-145, plan. Belenitskii 1915, pp. 176-180. Price 1821, rnl. II I. p. E15. Fasih 1962-63, ml. Ill, pp. 220, 228. pp. Studies and reports al-Sarnarqantli 18-11. 20-21. Ferrier 1857, p. 170. --19Hi-49. pp. li4-175, I l!i7. --1860, p. 472. Hafiz-i Abru 1970, pp. 13-15, 30. I !ill and Grabar 1964, fig. 36. Isfizari I ?59-60, ml. I, pp. 78-81. Restorations and present condition: UNDP/Unesco project AFG/76/022 August 1976 - March 1979. No recent reports on actual condition.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed B/W ~hoto general view of nothern facade Isometric drawing, partly restored.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date February 1990 Inventory revised by Date

----~--··::-:--::----;--~-::;-;----~------;.,---=----:-----:---:-:-~----- Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. ()ala rkhtiarrucHn Iler at general view, nothern facade, '1978 (F.l',0lu11'i). -Ii., a) r-- 0,

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Province (Wallayat) : Herat File no.: 05 District (Uluswali) Location of site . NWof the city of Herat

Name of monument The 'Musalla' Ensemble Type of building madrasa, majid and Date : 820-870/1417-1465 Main features mausol~um. The building complex consists of three separate structures situated next to each other; (i) to the north the Madrasa of Sultan Husain, (ii) in the middle the Madrasa and mausoleum of 9awhar Shad, and (iii) the Masjid-i jami of Gawhar Shad to the south. The history of the complex is easier to reconstruct than its physical appearance to­ day, when only six minarets and the mausoleum remain.

Source (1) : Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 302-307. O'Kane, 1987, pp. 339-343. UNDP-Unesco/ Bruno, 1976. UNDP-Unesco, restricted technical report, 1981.

Allen 1981a, pp. 92-93, nos. 431,457. Lal 18:H,p.15. Babur 1921a, vol. II, p. 15. . ULine 1%1. pp. 127-1-15. Byron 1937, pp. 100-101, 257, pl. opposite p. 252. Naimi I 952a, pp. 22-3-L Goya I 9·16, pp. 16-19. Niedermayer and Diez 1924, pis. 157-163. II ill and Grabar I 964, figs. 126-129 .. I loldich 1888. I sfizari I 959-60. l~hanikoff 1860, pp. 537-543.

Restorations and present condition: Restoration works and excava­ 0 tions undertaken by Unesco (UNDP/AFG/75/022) from 1976 to 1979.

Severe damage has occured to the minarets of the Madrasah of Bayqara Husain due to bomb shelling in 1985. The only standing minaret of the M1sjid of Gawhar Shad was destroyed in 1 98 5 due to mi 1 i tary .operations. · No recent records exist about the Mausoleum of Gawhar Shad and the mosaics stored inside the buildin~; a photograph taken in 1987 shows that the top of the ribbed dome has fallen in and damaged has occured to the masonry at the top of the r~maining minaret of the former madrasah.

Documentation enclosed 7 pages.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: l) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. lnjil []. Ca,wl

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McrJresuh of Husayn Bayqara, minaret no. 1 and 3 at the plan by Golombek and Wilber.

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PliotrJ ;1pp. 1966, Tnger l!an~;cn. ThEi min,11-ct is dcst-royccl i II 1 q fl', . i. . ' .

. The minaret of the former masji6 -i jami of Gawhar Shad. The minaret was destroved because of Domb shelling in 1 93::;; '~··-'- abo~t ten meters of the shaf~ is stil: standing. (Photo Stefan

~::.ndgren, ~ 986). The mausoleum of Gawhar Shad and the one remaining minaret of the madrasah of Gawhar Shad.

The previous repair to the top of the ribbed dome is evidently to some extend fa]len in and damage has occured to the masonry at tl1e top of the minaret. These damages have occured during the 1980's. (Photo: Leon FJamholc, 1987)

'J'!J(; s Ld nd j. JllJ m:i rw r,2 L of the madrassa of Gawhar Shad. Photo: rn~1er Hansen 1960' s. <.)'

Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 06 District (Uluswali) Location of site : The complex. is located four and one-half kilo- meters northeast of the old walJed city of Herat, in the foothills of the Zangirgah mountains. Name of monument Gazur Gah Type of building : shrine complex Date: Main features ·· The complex is composed of (a) the Shrine of Khvajeh 'Abdullah A~sari, 829-832/1425-1429; (b) the Zarnigar Kharneh, late 15th to early 16th century; (c) cistern 'Zamzam'; (d) the pavi~ion of Namakdan; and (f) the underground mosque. Additionally the village o~ Gazur Gah is located next to the_ shrine complex.

Source (1) Lisa Golombek, The Timurid Shrine at Gazur G~h_, Royal Ontario Museum Art and Archaeology 08C. paper no. 15, 1969. Pougatchenkova, Chefs-deceuvre, 1981, pp. 130-133 Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 307-311 . . O'Kane, 1987, pp. 311-312

Studies and reports:

Restorations and present condition: Structural consolidation of the great iwan of the shrine in the 1960s (Danish architect J. Hertz); restorations by the.Antiquities department in the late 1970s (Afghan architect S. Reha).

No recent records on the"building condition.

Measures for preservation The road constructions in the 1970s were cut through the graveyards situated to the southwest of the shrine complex leaving scattered Timurid tomb stones. Comprehensive restoration plan needed, including measures for the restoration of individual house~ within the village of Gazur Gah.

Documentation enclosed site plan and ground plan of the shrine.

Inventory prepared by ·F •. Aalund Date Febr11a ry 1 '1 ') 0 Inventory revised by : Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. r t.,..,·

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G GAZUR GAH

5111,tchof the Shrine Complex

A . the shrine and its additions ( 1 ... tomb of Khvlljah An~lrl) B . Zarnigir Khinah C cistern "Zamzam'' D. . . . Namakdan

E . site of second Namakdin 10011 1 .. 'e' '•' 1' •,• I I F underground mosque G. recent oratory l\fap C Gazur Gah: Sketch of the Shrine Complex ( from Golombek, 1969).

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A.B,C D.E --:::-===-..c=,n' ' . . ' ~ F,G,H 1)-~ 77. (Cat. l\o. 711 llerat ((;;w1rg.1h)._Shrine ol Kll\,tjch ',\b­ <.-:J Qtl>hh cl1dL1h Ansari. l'l.rn (~ource: Golombek and Wilber, 1988) Province (Wallayat) : Herat File no.: 07 District (Uluswali) : Location of site : The shrine and mosque is sit ated about four kilometres west of Herat north of Hari Rud in the village of l\zuoan

Name of monument : !,_bu' 1 Valig_ Type of building : shrine and mosque Date: 903/1497-98 Main features :_The complex consists of a long rectangular court or maydan with the mausoleum and its additions on the northwest and a covered cistern on the opposite end. The iwan and related mi- narets are rebuilt in 1923 and 1956.

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber 1988, pp. 318-319. o'kane 1Ju7, pp. 271-275 Samizay 1981, pp 75-81. Khvandamir l 954-55, vol. II I, p. 639. Allen l98la, no. 573. -- 1961-62, pp. 23-24. Babur 1921, p. 207. Jami 1957-58, pp. 354,356. Niedermayer 1924, pl. 1H. Saljuqi 1967, pp. 130-138. Studies and reports: Herat International Project/Unesco inventory card HE/01, 1978, including plan and elevation of main facade, scale 1 : 5 0 •

Restorations ·and present condition: The building complex was completely destroyed in 1987 as appears from the enclosed photograph.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed: 3 pa,ges, b/w photographs

Inventory prepared by: F. Aalund Date: January 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. :!O(J-:!111. (C:at. Nu. 7'.J) llnat (.\zad,111) Sltri11c ol ~luli.111111111<1:\IJL1'i \'_did Ii. Alt111,"I. 1/u/') 111ili1.d,. (/,/,,,) 111 1,·1i"1 ol du111c, lta11il,cr, an Ji ·11ctlu1isol,·

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Name of monument Shrine of 'Abdullah al-Wahid Type of building shrine Date: 892/1487 Main features The mausoleum consists of a lage dome chamber entered through a broad iwan on the east. The paintings in the dome chamber is recent although it no doubt follows the original l~nes of the star vaults ( 1325/1907-8):

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 313-314. Sam~ z a y , 1 9 8 1 , 8 2 ·-8 5 . Allen 1981, no. 599. Khanikoff 1860 (monument located on map). Sa!juqi 1967a, pp. ! 2, 95-10 I (commentary). Yate 1887, p. 94 (date on the tombstone read as 890 / 1486). Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed plan and ~ection (sketch), scale 1 :200

Inventory prepared by: F. Aalund Date February ·1 990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. ------,.----- ' ' '

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SECTION

D I 10 t':'4...-,n... -""''"""',. '""""'"'";,:;;.,.-;,.•~· ~·c~lW~111>~-,.,.~--~·-•:"!'II~ SULTAN MIR ABDUL WAHED SHAHID SHRINE 2 0 I) source:: Sami:c.__,y, 1981 Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 09A Di.strict {Uluswali l • Location of site : The shrine is located on a mound north of the citadel opposite th~ shrine of Abu'l-Qasim. The mound is known as 'Kuhandazh or 'Quhandiez-i Masrakh'. Uame of monument Shazada Abdullah b. Mu'awiyah Type of building shrine Date: 865-893/ 1460-88 Main features : The Timurid shrine is remarkable for the complexity of its internal design, which takes into account the preexisting locations of the tombs. The mound is believed to be the r~mains of earlier city walls and fortifications.

source (1) Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 312-313 O'Kane, 1987, pp. 277-280 Samizay, 1981, pp. 86-91 Pougatchenkova, 1981, pp. 160-161 Allen I '.lHLi. no .. -i(i:2. l'ug;H iil'11km a I !1,1Jli, pp.:\ 1-:\:\. S;t!_juqiI %7;i, pp. 8-10. :\1-:\7 le 0111111L'11ttn i Studies and reports \\'olle I %G, p. '27 (incorrl'tth idelllif1t:d ). Ya'.e IH>\7, pp. \lVJ5.

Restorations and present condition Aside from a repair of the dome, the plaster and painting in 1325/1907, and some modifications of the entrance facade, the building has undergone little change.

No recent records on the actual:building condition.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed Plan and section, sketch, scale 1 :200

Inventory prepared by. F. Aalund Date February 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. ' ',:, ,,11 ii ,,'I, 1, ,, \ ,,'1 :1,, "

J

SECTION

10 'tf!CC , ·SHAZADAABDULAH SHRINE , 2 00

sourcl.!: Sarnizay 7 1981) Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 098 District ( \Jluswali \ : Location of site The shrine is located on a mound just north of the citadel of Herat and next to the Shazada Abdullah Mu'awiyJ.h shrine

Name of monument Shahsada Abu'l Qasim Type of buildfng shrine Date after 835 11:II. Hain features

Source (1) Samizay, 1981, pp. 92-95

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition: The dome was rebuilt in 941-42/ 1540-1541. Originally .the interior of the dome was decorated, but during restoration works in 1325/1905 the paintings were never corn-- plctc,d.

No recent records on the actual building condition

Heasnres for preservation

Documentation enclosed- plan and sections (sketch), scale 1 :200

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date February 1990 Inventory revised by Date

~----·~-,-~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Note: 1) All scientj_fic-sources are cited in the bibliography. ~.,., ,,,,... ,, I I

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PLAN

SECTION

0 I 5 10 ~... wrrw,-•wiiiiiiil ,wwsm , ABUL QASEM SHRINE I: 200 (source,: Samizay, 1981 Province (Wallayat) H.era t File no.: 1 0 District (Uluswali) Location of site Ca. 300 metres south of the Masjid-i Jami of the village of Ziyaratgah, located twenty-one kilometres south of Herat. Name of monument Majid~i Chihil Sutun Type of building Mosque Date : ca . 1 4 8 5 Main features (according to Pugatchenkova 915/1510). The building is composed of five rows of seven domed bays, three rows forming a closed winter P!ayer .hall (Zawistan), the other two being open at the front and sides~ The original mos~ic-faience decoration of the mihrab of the summer mosque is well preserved.

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber 1988, pp.350-351 O'Kane 1987, pp. 303-05 Pougatchenkova 1 981, pp. 128-29 Pugachenkova I %8, pp. ·18-50. -·-· - l 9G9c, pp. '.36--10.(One year prior to Profes­ sor P11gachenkma's \isit to the site in l\Hi7, Co­ lomliek \\'as un;.1lile Iii find 1l1e in,u iption l'u­ gachenkova attributes to the mil1rah, l>e;1ri11gthe Studies and reports titles of Sultan I ltJs;q 11 and the puuling posthu­ mous date.) Saljuqi 1%7a, p. fl:1. \\'olfe I 966, p. 60.

Restorations and present condition

According to AFRANE (Amite Franco-Afghane) the mosque was damaged due to military operation in 1982.

Measures for preservation: Tl1e peripherel walls of the wintermosque were dangerously unstable in 1978, when the mosque was visited by members of the Unesco team.

The actual condition of the building is not known in detail.

Documentation enclosed sketch plan and section photograph of the mihrab.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date January 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: l) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. I / l ..,,--'

!'ll(•rm:r,\1'11 CIILll!:J.:;11 n1;1 I!, •I ( ,1,~

CHEHELSUT'.UN MOSQUE

( so'urce: Sami zuy, 1901 )

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2. Le mibrob Source: Pougatchenkova, 1981. Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 11 District (Uluswali) Location of site Village of Karukh,·ca. thirty-two kilometers west of Herat, beyond the nothern slopes of Diwandar mountains. Name of monument Masjid-i jami Karukh Type of building mosque Date : possibly 16 cent. Main features The structure has similarities to the 16th century khanaqah mosque of Khwaja Zainuddin in Bokara.

Source (1) Samizay, 1981, pp.SO - 55.

Studies and reports

Restorations and present col')dition: In 1978 the front part was leaning towards the outside and the roof was oviously leaking. The outer wall was temporarily supported by timber props.

There is no recent reports on t~e actual building condition

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed four b/W photographs taken jn 19780

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date February 1990. Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific~sources are cited in the bibliography. ~l:li,jJ(l··i J i1 Ill i :intc~rior of wj11l.er Ill() ~i CJI l C: 1 ph\ JI ,1 I 'J'/d ( j'

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\. :y t Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 12 District (Uluswali) Location of site : In a cemetry on the edge of the village of ~~~~Q, now called Dih-i Manar, ca. 20 km SW of the centre of Herat.

Harne of monument Khanaqah of Shaikh Sadr.al-din Armani Type of building Date: after 889/1493-4 Main features Both in form and size its resemblance is close to the Khanaqah of ~ulla Kalan.

Source (1) O'Kane, 1987, pp. 265-266 Pugachenkova an? Zakhimov, "Khanaka Shcyka Sadrcddina," pp. 1-10-4. Pugachcnkova, "A l'etudc,· pp. 41-5. Eadem, Zodchestvo, pp. 78-9. Eadem, Chefs-d'oeuvre, p. 48. SaljuqI, pp. 119-22. Ball, Gazetteer. No. 278. Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition very poor condition; no recent records.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed Plan and elevation, Photos, east facade

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date February 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific-sources are cited in the bibliography. :::j ------.:=::~+----:~ =--~~ ·1

.. -- I - .1 0 • • 1' •• .. l:~ II . ,:.. ,. ~·,--·-··~JI 0 o 0 o 0 --·,r·- ·~· ' I' 0 • ,, 11 ,, .. .. II ·,, : ~~-- : . ~ fr:: I <' I

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ca,;t: L1cc1clc J~)";'cl, tc, i\,111111,1 Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 13 District (Uluswali) Location of site Within the ~eneral region of Herat some thirteen kilometers northeast of the larger village of Ghorian, which is located about sixti-six kilometers to the west of Herat. Harne of momunent Barnabad Type of building Khanaqah, mosque and Date late 15th cent. Main features : maosoleum The village of Barnabad has numerous historic monuments originating the Timurid period, the most noticeable are: (i) the masjid-i jami of Barnabad; the mosque stands in the very centre-of the town. (ii) Khan­ qah Kvajel1 Vahid al-Diri, mosque and cemetary of Mulla-i Kalan; the group of bt1ildings is situated to the north of the village. The ce­ meta~y has about fourty Timurid tombstones, among which thirty-one are carv2d in black stone with th~ marvellous florish design of the Timurids. Source (1) : Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 297-298 Samizay, 1981,. pp 38-41. Saljuqi, 1967, pp. 147-148

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition No recent information 6n the actual building condition is available. According to a informations dating from 1986 the Masjid-i jami of Barnabad is destroyed durin~ the!arly 1980's.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed B/W photo, general view of the village. B/W phote 1986 of the masjid-i jami.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date February 1990. Inventory revised by : Date

Note:T) All scientific sOLirces are cited in the bibliography. ( Tni(!riuc of Lile Ma.~3jid--j j(1rni of Barn,1\JcJd :,howinq 1c'<'c'ril destructions. (photo: Stefan Lindgren, 1986). Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 14 District (Uluswali) Location of site The village of Ziyaratgah is located twenty-one kilometers south of Herat, -ca. twelve kilometres west of the airport.

Name of monument Masjid-i jami Ziyaratgah Type of building mosque Date : 887-89/ 1482-85 Main features The court with its four axial ivans is over- shadowed by the soaring portal screen of the sanctuary ivan. The em­ bellishment of the structure was kept to a minimum. The concept of the whole is a grandeous example of the Timurid masjid.

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber 1988, pp. 351-52 Samizay · 1981, pp. 42-45 Pougatchenkova 1981, pp. 176-77 Niedermayer and Diez. 192·1, fig. I ti:i. Pugachenkova I 9ti8, pp. -11-·!8. -- 1%~. pp. 30-'.l7. Saijuqi 1967a, pp. 11 :!-113. Studies and reports \\'cilfe I %6, p. GO.

Restorations and present condition No records of the actual condition of the building

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed sketch plan and section, scale 1 :500

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date January 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. . r-1 I I L

.JJ.1 Zi}dratgUh. MaJjid-i 1mm': see1ion scale 1 :500 (source: O'Kane, 1987)

I D

102. (Cat. No. 1~3) Ziyaratgah. l\fasji

Harne of monument Haws:..i Karbas Type of building masjid Date: 845/1441-42 Main features Most striking is the decoration and inscrip- tion of the mihrab of outstanding quality. The present facade has been rebuilt in recent times.

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber 1988, pp 311-312 Pugachenkova 1981, pp. 148-149 Allen l98la, p. IOI.. Ghawwas l 968, p: 39. llaravi l9i0a, p. 39. --- l Cli'Ob,pp. 32-3-1. ·1'ltg,1cl1t·11kCJl'aI ~liOI,, pp. '.28-:11. ---- l 9i'6a, pp. 6-1-65. Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition:

The building was damaged due to military operations in 1982 according to informations from AFRANE ( amit~ Franco-Afghane).

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed: Sketch plan and section, b/w photograph, Mihrab, b/w photo 1986. Inventory prepared by: F. Aalund Date January 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. ( ..~('ti'-! '' ( • i I

WIl!dWS···j I,arbas 1 ~rab, 1978 (1,llc,lo F. l\ a l u ml )

[J]c][l c.1lld;- Sl" ·,t·. ( :c3J:.e:Lch) l:i\/::;-j r ._c_1on I ". 1 t· LJd ., ( Poue· ,_ - .., _Jd Lc:henl'·· "OVct} • ·~' ''.: ,, l ; ij I . \ It·,,: ' ...•t

l I i. ~ I .,,\I rI I i ~. ,1 I I. 1 'I .

, . ..) ,- ... I I -~;,:~;' ...' :J Pi:ovince (Wallayat) : Herat File no.: 1 6 Di::.:;Lrict (Uluswali) Location of site The masjid is situated on the eastern edge of tho town of Ghorian, about sixty-six kilometers to the west of Heral.

Name of monument Masjid-i~mi 1 Ghurian •1ype of building ~jmurid mosque Date late 15th cent. A.O. Main features The plan is strikingly similar to the masjid-i jami of Ziyaratgah, only the scale is smaller. There are no traces of any decorative material being used. The mosque is anepigraphic.

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber, 1988, pp. 300-301 O'Kane, 1987, pp. 351- 352. Samizay, 1981, pp. 22-26.

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition: By 1978 the overall structural condition of the mosque was in a very poor shape. Cracks that are the result of earthquakes and water leakage was visible all over the building.

No recent records of the buildini condition.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed: two B/W photos, 1978. B/W photo 1 986. ( exterior and interior)

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note:-f) All sci.entif ic sources are cited in the bibliography. i

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Jlc1:;jid ·i :i:rnli of Churian; actual conc1iLion 19f:l6. ACL'.Cll.l1j1](J l u I;, loc.11 l"Jf,ul,:ilic,n Llw da111EUJC~, c1rc, not· tlic d.irecl 1·L):,;ult'., (JI. \•/,i I ,;cl:ic,11:;, b11t U10 buj lc1inrJ condition has changed c]ramaticci l I y \,1 j I I I l I, llk lc1::t <~iq!JL ye,ic, .. (photo: St:Qfan Lindq[cn, 19136). Masj iu-i jami of Cliurjan · inLerior of cupola. (photo: Stefan Lindgren, 1986). Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 17 District (Uluswali) Kuhsan Location of site Ca. 10 kilometres East of the border with Iran in the nothern part of the village of Kuhsan.

Uame of monument Madrassa of Tuman Agha_,Kuhsan Type of l)uilding Tomb/mausoleum Date : 844/1440-41 Main features The structure is known today as the tomb or the madrassa of Gawhar Shad.

The complex is consisting of ij maosoleum, a ziyarat Khaneh and a masjid. The structure was visited by Khanikoff_in 1858. He saw the original complex in ruin. The ribbed dome was the one of only two domes of this type existing in Afghanistan.

Source ( 1) : Golombek and Wilber 1 988, pp. 325-327. Pougatchenkova 1981, pp.1 44-1 47 O'Kane 1987, pp.197-200 Pugachenkova 1%8, pp. 27-·l l. Dupree, N., 1971, pp. 18G-187. -- 1970b. pp. 2:i-27. Haravi 1970b, pp. 32-'.H. -- 1976a, pp. 21, 89. Khanikoff 1860, pp. :°>:37-5"1:3. --1861, p. 122. O' Kane I '.ml, P· IO l. II. 8 I. Studies and reports: Herat International Project, Unesco, inventory card He/014, December 1978. Survey drawings by Unesco/F. Franchini containing plan, section and elevation, January 1979.

Restorations and present condition: Although the original complex was ruined already before 1858, the remaining parts are of great im­ portance representing a u~ique structure originating from the Timurid period. The mausoleum, including the high tambour and the ribbed dome was destroyed by bomb shelling in 19&5.

Measures for preservation The edifice can only be preserved as a historic ruin. It will be important to prevent looting of glaced tiles, which should be rescued for museum purposes. When the site is being cleared the remaining structures need intermediate consol•dation until definite plans fof future measures can be de sided. Archaeolog.ical excavations will be desireable. · Documentation enclosed ·B/W photo 1976 B/W photos after destruction in 1985.

Inventory prepared by: F. Aalund Date January 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: l) All scientific·sources a~e cited in the bibliography. t,ladrassa of 'l'uman Aqha, I5husan; also referred to Gawhar Shac1. BuilcJinq coric:litjon in 1976 (Photo: F. Aalund, 1976).

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I I .SLCTIDr1(il-l' C i'lar1 and ~:iect.jon of mausoleum (~~ource: Unesco/F: F'ranchird, inv,·111,JL/ ca rd TlE/ 0 H , 1 9 7 9 ) l-ladrasah of •rurnan i'}.qha, Khusan, also referred to Gawhar Shad.

DestrucUons due to Soviet and government war a c U on ~' .i n I l) il"i • (photo: Stefan Lindgren, 1986). Made a sah of Tuman Aqha, I<:husan, al so ref erred to Gaw ha r Sha cl. L.1estn1ctions due to Soviet and government war actions in 19B5.

(plt\)lo: Stt:cf:in Lind9ren, 1986). .:!:··

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f.l,HL .,sah of 'I'uman Aqha, Khusan, also referred to Cc1whar Sli,1d. lJc•struction~ due to Soviet and ()Overnment war actions in JCJfJ",

( r,l Io Lo : S h? fa n L j n d 9 re n , 1 9 8 6 ) • ... ;,: :r, .! :'1'/ fl 1

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tL1rJ1·a:~al1 n[ r1•uman Aqlia, Khusan, also referred to Gc1v1har Shad. lh:,~;t~ruct ionc; clue to Sovje:;t and government war act ion~, in I 9U',.

(plloto: Stefan Lind,Jrcn, 1986). Province (Wallayat) Herat File no.: 18 District (Uluswali) : Kushk Location of site : Some 40 kilometres north-northwest of Herat along the road leading towards on the border to USSR.

Name of monument : Qush Ribat Type of building caravansarai Date : 905/1499 Main features - a large brick caravanierai· consisting of two adjoining structures:

,l ,:r1111 I lnii l di ri

Source (1) Golombek and Wilber 1988, pp.341-342. 1 0 Kane 1987 1 pp. 359-361. Golombek 1969b, pp. 88-90, 99, n. 65. Pugachenkova 1970a, pp. 45--19.

Studies and reports: Visited by the Herat International Project team in 1978 and found in a faily good condition.

Restorations and present condition: The ·complex has been in use for many years as a garage and a workshop. Most lately it has been in use by the military. No recent reports on the actual condition is available.

Measures for preservation: It is imperative that the complex is evacuated and the edifice will be used for some pertinent functions, which can ensure its future preservation.

Docwnentation enclosed plan, Golombek and Wilber 1988. photo, view from the west

Inventory prepared by: F.Aalund Date January 1990 Inventory revised by : Date:

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. i l f 1 I'l l • I t \

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9:1. (Cat. No. I 117) (lmli Ril1;11.( :.11 ;i1·;111,;11) 1'1.111 (source: Colomb(::k zrnd 1·/i lbc•r, I CJfJH)

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Na.me of monument Vernacular architecture and building tradition. Type of building Date : Main features :

The local building tradition of the Herat region represents a genious adaptation to climate, availability of local building materials, etc. The traditional way of building was still dominan.t in the 1970 1 s, providing an appropriate housing of exeptional high architectural Qualities.

Source (1) Samizay, 1981 Naj imi, 1988

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition: The knowledge of the spatial organization and building techniques of vernacular housing in the region is very important for the formulation of future rehabilitation programmes in consideration of the extensive destruction, which has occured to town and village during :fhe last ten years of war.

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed -two B/W photos showing traditional house in the village of Ghorian. sketch survey of traditional house in Herat.

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1.) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. ~- V N~VA,..,..! .. l.L

Sketch survey of traditional house, Herat, march 1978 (F. Aalund). ~t { 11~· . ' i ~t,J •..,. -~ I · .• ii 11

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l.ic'.i,k Lu11<11d~, U1c cot11:Lyard, prival(c~ ho11,,c~, Chorid11, )lJ/cl (I ... i,,111111:i). :{, -~...... r\flJ ...... * ,, ...... ·.J,,

J.;;, [<'I j nJ ,.1 I ll 1 n t=.2r o c , r a 1· J.. r.,r·1 C'J ] }·1L-J 11 " , , J1 ') 1· 1· ·) 11-··· i l i t d l • ,, ,. f cJ· C . c I I 978 (I'. l,al 1111d)

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i • :'.,~· .... \ '! ) i Province (Wallayat) Hera t File no.: 2 0 Di.strict (Uluswali) : Location of site : Still operative in the 1960s in the regions west of Herat, on the outskirts of Herat, near the village of Ghorian and halfway between Herat and the frontier at Islam Qal'a close to the main Name ot monument : Horizontal windmills road. Type of building : vernacular architecturEDate: uncertain Main features The horizontal windmills represent a vernacular building type of ingenious intervention in areas where water-power plays a minor role - in the dry and fairly level plains which lie mainly between the spurs of central Afghan mountain ranges and the nothern frontier moun­ tains of Iran. The tradition of the use of wind-mills goes back about 1000 years or more. The mills somtimes stands alone, or in pairs, but most often about 10-12 mills were built together. Source (1) : K. Ferdinand, 'The horizontal Windmills of Western Afghanistan', Folk,vol~S,pp. 71-89, Copenhagen 1963.

(,;' --'

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition

Measures for preservation

Documentation enclosed: B/W photo 1978

Inventory prepared by F. Aalund Date: february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note: 1) All scientific so~rces are cited in the bibliography. Pa i r of ho r i z on L:1 l w i n d - rn i l l s , genera l v i e w 1 9 7 8 ( photo F • A it I u n ll )

I h n· i .1 o n t a 1 w j n d rni 11 s , d e t a i l 1 9 '/ 8 photo F. Aalund) Province (Wallayat) : Herat File no.: 21 District (Uluswali) : Location of site : Between Chest-i-sharif and the villag of Ob~, appoximately 150 kilometers east bf Herat city along the river Hari Rud. The site is visible from the present road. Name of monument : 'l'ype of building Caravanseraille Date: Main features

Source (1) no records, personal observation 1978

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition

Measures for preservation:

Documentation enclosed one b/w photograph (1978).

Inventory prepared by-. F. Aalund Date february 1990 Inventory revised by Date

Note :-1)-All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. Province (Wallayat) Herat. File no.: 22 District (Uluswali) Location of site

Name of monument vernacular architecture and housing Type of building Date: Main features

Source (1)

Studies and reports

Restorations and present condition:

The destructions of the habitat ~ithin tHe Herat province during the last eight years of war has:peen devastating. 'I'he Soviet and government war actions in the province has been tremendous due to heavy and constant shelling of the villages. The actual extend of the damage ~nd destruction is not known. Measures for preservation:

Documentation enclosed: Recent photographs from Herat city and villages in the province of Hera t.

Inventory prepared by -· F. Aa 1 und Date february 1990 Inventor.y revised by : Date

Note: 1) All scientific sources are cited in the bibliography. Village of Kawarzan, west of Ilerat (Photo: Stefan Lindgren,198G)

~illage of Maladan, outside Herat city (Photo: S. Lindgren, 10Uf,) Bazaar~e Kandahar, Herat city (photo: Stefan Lindgren, 1986)

Village of Serkuche, outside Herat (photo: Stefan Lindgren, 1986) \0 CD m

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