Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 3, 2009 • $3.00

WReady-to-Wear/TextileswDTUESDAY Head and Shoulders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall collection for Dolce & Gabbana had a Surrealist slant, expressed in playful trompe l’oeil looks and amusing visual tricks. Another important motif: strong shoulders. Here, a sheer-sleeve bustier look worn with leather gloves that have morphed into a hat and a clock-face necklace. For more on the MILAN season, see pages 4 to 11. collections/fall ’09

Fighting Back: Istithmar Says Barneys Not for Sale, CEO on Way By David Moin interview from Dubai on Monday. wants to unload the business amid Barneys New York is not for sale, hopes In addition to battling the recession, mounting financial pressures. to resolve its issues with factors in a few sharp declines in luxury spending, and But on Monday, Jackson went on the weeks and intends to have a new chief lately a handful of factors — including defensive, flatly denying the for-sale executive officer in place by midyear. Hilldun Corp. and Rosenthal & rumors and even contending Barneys is So says David Jackson, chief executive Rosenthal Inc. — that have stopped outperforming the competition. officer of Istithmar, the Dubai-based approving shipments, Barneys has been “There are a lot of rumors about parent of Barneys, in a wide-ranging dogged by speculation that Istithmar See Istithmar’s, Page 12 PHOTO BY MAURICIO MIRANDA MAURICIO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 WWD.COM Retail Dragged Down in Market Sell-off By Arnold J. Karr and Alexandra Steigrad ernment will need to complete its “stress tests of the banks,” he said, essentially “telling the The Dow Jones Industrial Average banks to raise [their] own money” or prepare to WwDTUESReady-to-Wear/Textilesday tumbled through the 7,000 mark and kept fall- be “taken over.” ing Monday, hitting its lowest level in nearly 12 Publicly held fashion companies will con- FASHION years and pulling down retail shares 4.3 percent tinue to do what they can to curb costs as they Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Fendi were among in its wake. struggle for scarce disposable income from con- s 4 the notable collections as the Milan fall season Escalating global fears about the fragility of sumers. After seeing its shares fall 18.1 percent the financial sector and the drastic measures that to $2.08 on Monday, The Talbots Inc. revealed it drew to a close. could be necessary to right hobbled world econo- had finalized terms of its $200 million unsecured GENERAL mies dragged the Dow down nearly 300 points, or term loan facility from Aeon Co. Ltd., the parent Vendors are hoping to finally unearth some solid 4.2 percent, to 6,763.29. It started the day below company of Talbots’ principal shareholder. 1 the psychologically significant 7,000 mark, dipped The retailer also noted that its board had information this week about the financial state of below 6,900 before noon and left behind the 6,800 voted to suspend the company’s quarterly divi- Barneys New York. barrier in the final hour of trading. dend, saving it about $29 million this year, and, The Dow Jones Industrial Average tumbled Meanwhile, despite word from the Commerce for an additional $6 million in savings, freeze its 2 through the 7,000 mark and kept falling Monday, Department that consumer spending in January pension plans, which earlier had been altered to hitting its lowest level in nearly 12 years rose for the first time in seven months, the S&P freeze participation for employees hired since Chanel revealed it will close two boutiques in Retail Index finished the day at 241.05, down the end of 2007. 3 10.74 points or 4.3 percent. Earlier in the day, J. Crew Group Inc., which Japan, while Chopard said it has eliminated 36 However, unlike the Dow and the battered announced layoffs and other cost reductions on jobs. S&P 500, which ended the day at its lowest level Friday, had been one of the few apparel retail- A consultant for China’s National Treasure Fund since 1996 after a 4.7 percent decline Monday, ers with stock gains, but the New York-based 3 revealed he had bought the fountainheads at the the retail index averted both near- and longer- specialty chain’s shares ended the day down 0.6 YSL auction, but didn’t plan to pay for them. term lows. percent at $11.19. Market rumors were swirling Monday that the While the Dow briefly fell below 7,000 on Others fared far worse. Among the specialty 13 Friday, Monday was the first day it had closed retailers sustaining double-digit declines in Estée Lauder Cos. had struck a spokeswoman below that milestone since May 1, 1997. The new stock prices were Frederick’s of Hollywood deal with “Slumdog Millionaire” star Freida Pinto. 52-week low of 6,755.97 hit earlier on Monday Group Inc., down 43.3 percent to 17 cents; Eddie The office of the U.S. Trade Representative sub- is 48.8 percent below the corresponding high of Bauer Holdings Inc., 22.6 percent to 48 cents; 14 mitted its annual president’s trade policy agenda 13,191.49 hit last May 2. Stein Mart Inc., 15.8 percent to $1.01, and The Versace to Congress on Monday. The Dow had last closed below 6,800 on April Wet Seal Inc., 12 percent to $2.20. 28, 1997. The somber mood on a snowy day in New The declines on Wall Street are reinforcing York followed similarly negative results in Classified Advertisements...... 15 unsettling news throughout the financial land- markets worldwide. Declines were even steep- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is scape, such as Monday’s disclosure of yet anoth- er in Europe, where both London’s FTSE 100 [email protected], using the individual’s name. er round of bailout money for AIG, and contrib- and Paris’ CAC 40 hit new lows. The London WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 uting to restrained consumer spending. index dropped 5.3 percent to 3625.83, while the FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “You get headline fatigue,” said Craig end-of-day quote in Paris was down 4.5 percent VOLUME 197, NO. 45. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners to 2,581.46. and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division LLC, in anticipation of Wall Street’s top-story In London, Marks and Spencer Group plc’s of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services role on Monday night’s newscasts. “It’s little shares dropped 4.6 percent to 249 pence, or provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage wonder that people are holding their purse $3.49 at current exchange, after Credit Suisse paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. strings tighter. The problem is with all this head- analyst Tony Shiret issued a research note criti- Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian line fatigue, nobody wants to spend anything.” cizing chairman Sir Stuart Rose’s leadership of addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS In a best-case scenario, Johnson sees spend- the company. CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. 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To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. its 16th month, might technically be over by the draw in younger customers. M&S’ share price Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please end of the year, “we will not be entering into a has fallen 36 percent over the past year. advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT period of strength or rapid recovery,” he said. In Asia, the Nikkei 500 fell 3.8 percent to RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, In order for a recovery to begin, Garber said 7,280.15 in Tokyo, while Hong Kong’s Hang Seng UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER investors would have to perceive stability in fi- Index dropped 3.9 percent to 12,317.46. MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY nancial institutions. For that to happen, the gov- — With contributions from Nina Jones WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Snowstorm Impacts Northeast Retailers DAILY “It’s so interesting to By Sharon Edelson ter open if at all possible and takes a philosophi- QUote meet all these different cal view of the weather. “We can only control the A massive snowstorm Monday ham- things we can control,” said Andrea Sanders, people, who eat breaded veal, wear mered the Northeast and Southeast U.S. with up senior vice president and creative director. “We to 12 inches of accumulation in some areas, dis- try to accommodate the stores as best we can. fabulous clothes and look fit while rupting schools, traffic and businesses, includ- Being an outdoor center, we’re used to it. There ing retail. are people shopping today, not that it’s going to doing it. The blizzard-like snow, along with wind gusts be a busy day by any means. We’d certainly rath- of up to 30 miles an hour, forced school closings er this happens on a Monday than a Saturday.” ” — Scarlett Johansson, at the Dolce & Gabbana show, on Long Island, Westchester, New Jersey and New Despite the snowstorm, Bloomingdale’s didn’t on her first trip to Italy. Page 3. York City, which hadn’t cancelled school due to the close any stores. “I’m surprised how clean some weather in five years. Long Island was one of the of the streets on the East Side looked this morn- hardest areas hit, with up to 14 inches expected. ing,” said Anne Keating, Bloomingdale’s spokes- “One of the anchor stores did open late,” said woman. “It was easier to get around than you Vincent Dantone, an assistant manager of the would have imagined in this type of weather.” TODAY ON Roosevelt Field Mall in Garden City on Long “None of our stores have been impacted by Island. Nordstrom’s unit in the mall opened an the storms,” said a spokesman for Target. “It’s hour late, at 11 a.m. instead of 10 a.m. The store business as usual.” expected to close at 9:30 p.m. Wal-Mart said 10 of its stores from Virginia Employees of the J.C. Penney, Macy’s and to the Northeast were impacted due to power Bloomingdale’s units at Roosevelt Field said the outages and other operational issues. By stores opened on time. Asked if Bloomingdale’s Monday evening, only a unit in Richmond re- WWD would remain open until the usual 9:30 p.m. mained closed due to power outages, a spokes- .com close, an employee said, “At this point, yes.” woman said. “Some of the stores closed early or will close Westfield Garden State Plaza shopping center • Ongoing coverage of the early,” an employee of Roosevelt Field said on in Paramus, N.J., managed to open on time, at 10 Milan shows, with reviews, Monday afternoon. a.m. An employee said the mall would close at Fashion Scoops and parties Nordstrom stores in Natick and Burlington, 9:30 p.m. The Mall at Short Hills in Short Hills, • Videos of key collections Mass., and the Nordstrom Rack unit in Danvers, N.J., avoided the worst of the storm. “We’re kind

Mass., opened at noon, a spokeswoman said. of in that middle band in terms of the weather,” iranda • Backstage beauty reports M

A unit at the Short Pump Town Center in said Michael McAvenue, general manager of the o and images from Milan Richmond opened on time but closed early at 6 center. “We didn’t get as pounded as other parts • Full runs of show from the p.m., as did The Streets at Southpoint Nordstrom of the state. We opened 100 percent on time. aurcici

M New York, London and

in Durham, N.C. We’re looking at trying to stay open the rest of by o

Americana Manhasset, an upscale outdoor the evening. We had a good crowd in here.” t Milan collections Dsquared shopping center, has a policy of keeping the cen- — With contributions from David Moin Pho • Global breaking news WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 3 WWD.COM Buyer of 2 YSL Relics FASHION SCOOPS STAR BURST: Milan was dry on A-list would help her design costumes for Domenico Dolce,Dolce, NaomiNaomi WattsWatts celebrities until Dolce & Gabbana Giuseppe Verdi’s “Attila,” to be staged and StefanoStefano Gabbana.Gabbana. Doesn’t Intend to Pay opened the floodgates at their show, next spring at the Metropolitan Opera where Hollywood and Bollywood and directed by Riccardo Muti. Herzog By Kathleen McLaughlin and Ellen Groves stars, supermodels and artist Jeff & de Meuron, with whom Prada has Koons spruced up the front row. A worked on a number of projects, will BEIJING — In the latest twist in the tale of two rel- brunette Scarlett Johansson, who be in charge of the set design. ics sold during last week’s historic Yves Saint is the face of Dolce & Gabbana’s Laurent and Pierre Bergé art sale in Paris, a new beauty line, was making her LITIGIOUSLY YOURS: Todd Oldham’s Chinese collector on Monday revealed he had first visit to the Italian city, having departure from Old Navy last month bought the Qing dynasty fountainheads — but he recently directed a short film called might have been relatively quiet, but doesn’t plan to pay for them. “These Vagabond Shoes” as part the potential for dueling lawsuits Cai Mingchao, a consultant for China’s of the anthology film “New York, could soon turn the volume up on National Treasure Fund, an organization cre- I Love You.” “It’s so interesting to the split. L-7 Designs Inc., which ated to buy back looted and stolen relics, said at meet all these different people, who owns the Todd Oldham trademarks a press conference here that he was the mystery eat breaded veal, wear fabulous and lists the designer as its president, brought a suit against the telephone bidder who last week acquired the two clothes and look fit while doing it,” retailer in Manhattan federal court on Feb. 18. Lawyers for the 18th-century bronze sculptures for 15.7 million she told WWD. company filed the complaint under seal. On Monday, the design euros, or $20.3 million at current exchange, each. Freida Pinto was getting used firm would reveal only that the suit lists breach of contract and Cai said he won’t pay — possibly nullifying the to the limelight after the success other claims as causes. Gap Inc. spokeswoman Louise Callagy contentious sale that his institution, plus people of Oscar winner “Slumdog said the company was disappointed by Oldham’s decision to take from the Chinese foreign ministry, various arts Millionaire.” “All the hoopla is what it called a “business disagreement” to the courts. “We are organizations and even action hero Jackie Chan dying down, so I’m getting a confident in our ability to defend ourselves on all points and, in — had protested against. The rat and rabbit sculp- chance to catch my breath after the fact, we plan to file this week our own breach of contract claims tures were two of 12 fountainheads taken by Anglo- crazy period, but I have such lovely against Todd Oldham’s company, L-7 Designs,” she said. On Feb. French forces from the Old Summer Palace in memories,” said Pinto, who has two 20, with little fanfare, Oldham left his post as creative director Beijing during the Opium War from 1839 to 1842. projects in the pipeline — one with for the Old Navy brand, a post he’d taken on in October 2007. At “What I want to stress today is that the money Woody Allen to be filmed in London the time of his hire, the company spoke of eventually marketing cannot be paid,” said Cai, according to a transcript and costarring Josh Brolin, Anthony clothes, and possibly home and beauty products, under the Scarlett JohanssonJohansson of the conference. “Every Chinese person would Hopkins, Antonio Banderas and designer’s name. The branded line never surfaced in his roughly and KateKate HudsonHudson have liked to do like this at that moment, and I’m Naomi Watts, who was also at the 17 months with the retailer. honored to have the chance to make the bid.” show, and another, which was “very Christie’s declined Monday to confirm or deny hush hush.” (For more on Pinto’s projects, see page 13.) LEATHER KICKS: Soccer player Nicola Legrottaglie joined Cai’s claims. “We are aware of today’s news reports,” Kate Hudson kept her brother, Wyatt Russell, and Eva Mendes motorcyclist Fonsi Nieto, “CSI” actor Gary Dourdan and Italian the auction house stated. “As a matter of policy, we entertained with her take on the circle of life, from meeting Mr. TV presenter Simona Ventura front row at Dsquared’s show do not comment on the identity of our consignors or Right, getting married, “then you have a kid, get divorced and Monday morning. Dressed in the Juventus off-pitch suit and tie buyers, nor do we comment or speculate on the next then you’re a whore.” designed by the Caten twins, Legrottaglie said Italian soccer stars steps that we might take in this instance.” Meanwhile, Eva Herzigova was “all ears” in a red gown with didn’t have to look far for style tips. “It’s easy to be fashionable Speaking on the French radio station France exaggerated circular shoulders from Dolce & Gabbana’s spring because we are so connected to the fashion world here,” he said. Info Monday, Bergé, for his part, expressed little collection. “How could you not notice me in this?” Herzigova Meanwhile, Ventura, Italy’s equivalent of Kelly Ripa, coveted the surprise at the latest development, noting China queried. Model David Gandy, a staple on and off the house’s leather jackets seen on the runway. “Every woman has a bit of had seemed willing to go to any lengths to recov- runway, said he would be moonlighting as an editor for new rock ’n’ roll in them — at least I certainly do,” Ventura said, er the heads. If they are not paid for, Bergé said London-based fashion and politics magazine Fashist, which adding, “I am going home now to dig out my leather jackets from he would simply keep them himself. launches later this month. “I’ll be covering all the motoring,” the Eighties.” The rat and rabbit far exceeded their presale Gandy said, adding he would feature in Dolce & Gabbana’s fall ad estimation of 8 million to 10 million euros, or campaign, shot by Steven Klein in June. Ambra ARTS AND CRAFTS: Some girls have $10.2 million to $12.7 million. They figured among Elsa Pataky just wrapped up “Mr. Nice” with Chloë Sevigny and Medda it all, like Italy’s Ambra Medda, the top 10 sales of the entire 700-piece Yves Saint “Giallo,” directed by horror king Dario Argento, in which she gets the young and glamorous director Laurent and Pierre Bergé collection. Meanwhile, kidnapped and goes through other terrifying adventures, while and co-founder of contemporary China’s State Administration of Cultural Heritage former Bond girl Caterina Murino is also about to embark on a nail- design fair Design Miami Basel. declared last week the sale had caused “serious biting adventure, playing a policewoman in the thriller “Die” — She turned up at Fendi’s show damage to Chinese people’s cultural rights, inter- which says it all. Lauren Hutton described herself as “a monster” Monday because “we’re doing a ests and national sentiments,” and warned of re- in the first movie she’s done in 20 years, “The Joneses,” with project together for the Salone percussions for Christie’s operations in China. Demi Moore and David Duchovny, but the genre is entirely different. del Mobile,” she disclosed. Titled Bidders, who are required to provide detailed “It’s about stealth merchandising,” and Hutton plays Moore’s and “Croft Punk,” the exhibition aims bank information, have seven days to settle their Duchovny’s boss. to support emerging industrial payments. The two bronze heads Nadja Auermann said she was as nervous being back on the designers such as Peter Marigold, were bid for last Wednesday. fashion circuit as on the runway, “if not more.” Conversely, Tomas Liberty and design collective Claudia Schiffer just sat back and relaxed. “What fun,” she said. Raw Edges, and features design Later, at a cocktail party to fete the “Extreme Beauty in objects made from discarded For more on the historic YSL Vogue” exhibition, Hudson said she was looking forward to the material at the Fendi factory. auction, see WWD.com. wardrobe for her next film, “The Killer Inside Me.” “I guess I’ll “The world is suffering a little. We be dressing up in Fifties clothes, which will be fun,” she said. need to show how young, creative Orlando Bloom had also jetted in from Los Angeles, where he was talent can make a difference,” filming “Symphony for the Delicious.” “I play a belligerent rock she said. Meanwhile, Lapo Elkann star,” he said, accompanied by his photographer cousin Sebastian said he was working on a new Chanel Closing a Pair of Japan Units Copeland, who was about to head to the North Pole. Watts just joint venture bespoke project, By Katya Foreman wrapped new movie “Mother and Child.” She’s been getting which he will unveil during Paris plenty of practice lately, looking after her 20-month-old son Fashion Week. Elkann also has a PARIS — Two major French luxury brands re- Alexander Pete. Karl Lagerfeld made a beeline for the photos — not few other projects up his sleeve, vealed further cost-cutting moves Monday, as that he needed to see them. “I know all the images and really including a new car and interiors Chanel said it will close two stores in Japan like them,” he said of the 89 photographs from the past 80 years for a new building project. “From and the jeweler Chopard revealed it has of Vogue. Koons said he’s working on a supersize installation in skyscrapers to cars and my own trimmed 36 jobs. Los Angeles: “It’s a large train, which hangs from a giant crane.” Lapo Elkann and Italia Independent label, I’m Chanel plans to close stores in Kyushu and Peaches Geldof said she was working on new fashion and music Bianca Brandolini d’Adda always busy,” he said. Osaka, leaving it with 37 stores in Japan. The magazine Disappear Here and her column in Nylon and, “I’ve just boutiques to be shuttered are in areas no lon- launched an ethical jewelry range called Made.” SPOT ON: A dizzying range of animal prints covered each chair, table ger frequented by luxury clientele, a company French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld brought news channel CNN and even oversize lamps at the Milanese theater where Roberto spokeswoman said. Chanel’s planned store ren- with her, which was filming a fly-on-the-wall documentary. “I am Cavalli held a dinner to launch his first credit card on Sunday. ovations and openings in Japan will go ahead, being followed round all the shows, and they are doing lots of Duchess of York Sarah Ferguson and her daughters, Beatrice however. This includes a big new store in Tokyo’s interviews,” Roitfeld said. “But you won’t be seeing me naked.” and Eugenie; Elizabeth Hurley and her husband Arun Nayar; Milla Aoyama district next spring. The documentary airs later this month, although Roitfeld won’t be Jovovich, tapped as the face of the card; “CSI” star Gary Dourdan, Around 30 openings and renovations are tuning in. “I don’t like watching myself.” and ballet star Eleonora Abbagnato sipped Cavalli’s Tuscan wine planned internationally for Chanel this year, in- Meanwhile, Miuccia Prada, dressed in one of her fall gladiatorial and dined on regional dishes such as rustic, thick spaghetti. And cluding openings in Ekaterinburg, Russia, Dubai dresses, showed it’s not all work now there’s an additional reason to and Shanghai. and no play. “I really do slide down ElizabethElizabeth Hurley,Hurley, RobertoRoberto CavalliCavalli shop: Ferguson said a percentage Meanwhile, Chopard, the privately owned, the slide,” she said, referring to andand MillaMilla Jovovich.Jovovich. of every sale made with the Cavalli Geneva-based jeweler, said it has cut 36 jobs the huge Carston Höller slide she card will benefit the charity she from its Fleurier and Meyrin sites in Geneva. has in her office in Milan. At a has founded, Children in Crisis. The cuts were blamed on the current economic subsequent private dinner, the star “We’ve built 82 schools around situation and lack of visibility for 2009, stated quotient went up even higher, with the world,” she said. Jovovich, in Chopard, which created 400 positions over the David Beckham joining the table. addition to her latest movie, the past three years, including 220 abroad. mystery “A Perfect Gateway,” will The news follows a spate of job cuts and COSTUME PARTY: Miuccia Prada appear in a viral campaign for the partial-unemployment arrangements imple- is not holding a grudge against card alongside the designer and a her longtime assistant Rodolfo Rolls-Royce. Meanwhile, Dourdan

mented by a number of luxury brands from STEPHANE FEUGERE Switzerland’s beleaguered timepiece industry, Paglialunga, who resigned to said his mother was a seamstress including Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA and become Vionnet’s creative and he’s mulling launching his own

Movado Group. PHOTOS BY director. Prada said Paglialunga apparel line. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 Surreal and Seductive Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went Surreal at Dolce & Gabbana, while Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi had a medieval crusader look and Donatella Versace’s Versace collection was decidedly sexy.

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana

MILAN ’09 collections/fall

Dolce & Gabbana: “There is a need to dream now and go beyond this moment.” So said goings-on beneath it sometimes got lost. Many of the reed-thin, belted dresses and Stefano Gabanna before he and Domenico Dolce showed their fall Dolce & Gabbana suits looked lovely, if wanting in diversity, even if the designers did work in some collection. The designers thus took on the Surrealist movement as inspiration, a strong coats and a delightful Marilyn moment that ranged from a T-shirt to a grandly theme implying mystery, random associations, visual tricks and an abundance of quirky ballgown. ideas, one would think, from which to pilfer. And there were obvious, delightful But the show lacked more than range. Given their motif and their penchants for references: leather gloves masquerading as scarves and hats, shoes cut like a woman’s humor and high drama, one wondered why Dolce and Gabbana focused on such a profile, broochlike buttons featuring golden, gloved hands clasping coral fans. small, obvious portion of the Surrealist lexicon. Such extras decorated lavishly done-up clothes: a pouf-shouldered ribbon-weave checkerboard dress, an LBD with giant ruffled shoulders, an astrakhan coat with Versace: “You can’t run and hide,” Donatella Versace said before her show, referring shaggy goat sleeves of Schiaparelli “shocking” pink (the mostly black-and-white to the recession. But you can and must be who you are. In Versace’s case, that means show’s key accent color) falling from enormous shoulders, a mirrored suit with “sexy, sexy, baby,” as the soundtrack kept repeating, lest we needed a reminder fur pouf shoulders, a jacket with scalelike, scalloped mink shoulders. Virtually of the house of Versace’s raison d’être. And as the designer closed the Milan everything was powerful and pretty. collections on Monday night, her take on sexy felt like a breath of fresh air, even if Yet if it sounds repetitive, it was, and too often familiar. We’ve been seeing some tricky lighting didn’t always flatter the models. shoulders galore all season, a trend Dolce and Gabbana helped jump-start last Donatella’s girls were dressed simply, clearly intent on seduction but neither spring with their fabulous Pajama Baroque outing. Here the shoulder action too tawdry nor tricked out in retro clubwear. Sure, there was a waft of the Eighties, but closely recalled that show, while dominating the runway to the extent that the one reflective of the company’s roots rather than a yen for nostalgia. Versace’s big WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 5 WWD.COM

Fendi

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went Surreal at Dolce & Gabbana, while Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi had a medieval crusader look and Donatella Versace’s Versace collection was decidedly sexy. MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI

Versace Versace Fendi PHOTOS BY

message: dresses, languid gems that draped and skimmed the body, often fastened collection full of chic savages decked in extraordinary furs and skins, as well as with shiny silver belts and cut for a considerable leg show. Most often, these came in modern crusaders turned out like lovely, latter-day Joans of Arc. mesmerizing blues and greens, although a sudden, extended burst of bright orange Things started out dark and intense with a black series of peak-shouldered and pink felt too showroom-merchy. outerwear and faux-distressed looks, such as a high-waisted bubble skirt worn with A racy nod to the biker set offered counterpoint to the dresses, and much of it a T-shirt fitted with a yoke of leather that trailed off the back like the military garb of looked great, provided a girl spends a lot of time on the bike at the gym. There were the old ages. That recurring theme played out in molded leather bustiers worn over also terrific coats, including ultrachic wool degradés seemingly shot with tinsel draped knit dresses, some hooded, as well as in the accessories, namely leather wrist and a pair of deliciously decadent shaved mink coats. Throughout, Versace avoided warmers and knee-high boots cut out across the arch of the foot. Lest it get too armored demonstrative decoration and high glitz in favor of curved seaming defined by silk and monastic, Lagerfeld softened things up with more romantic fare, such as a few or leather ribbon and rows of hardware. Evening offered a lovely parade of the terrific velvet dresses, either plain or draped to simple perfection in crimson red. draped gowns that have become perhaps Versace’s most recognizable signature. If such a primitive motif seems antithetical to Fendi’s cutting-edge principles, And if in the end this very focused show went on a little too long, it still achieved the this was absolutely a high-tech mission in disguise. Any rough-around-the-edges desired effect: Sexy, sexy, baby. effects — and there were plenty by way of shredded hems and raw edges — were intended as part of the illusion. Consider the artfully untamed furs. There Fendi: Barbarians at the gate? Karl Lagerfeld imagined not Wall Street beasts was reversible shearling, 18-karat white gold mink and a gorgeous sable that (relevant though they would be right about now), but the strong types of the Middle seamlessly degraded into silver fox. It was a remarkable construction, fit for an Ages. He turned the house of Fendi into a medieval manor with a power trip of a urban warrior. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009

Roberto Cavalli: Apparently Roberto Cavalli was feeling aggressive even Roberto Cavalli before the last-minute cancellation of his Just Cavalli show and the potential slander lawsuit. His fall runway was charged with Cavalli babes ready for battle, in mostly black fortified with loads of hardware — studs and grommets galore. There were leather jackets, short wrap skirts and fluttery silk dresses worn over skintight ’09 boots that zipped all the way up like leggings. As for prints, they were MILAN scarce, since the designer eschewed animal spots in favor of blurry, sepia- toned photographic patterns. Still, he collections/fall worked the wild-animal angle by way of beastly fur toppers. While it was different for Cavalli, this particular tough vamp and her circle of friends are looking a bit too familiar in Milan this season.

Salvatore Ferragamo: After last season’s overdose of bad taste, there was really nowhere for Cristina Ortiz to go but up. And up she did, if only a small step, with a modestly improved fall lineup that centered on a rose motif. She worked the theme into rose-shaped jewelry and, less obviously so, into gently curved seams and hems. Rather than fall into a floral-print fixation, Ortiz stuck to monotone colors — dark ruby reds, violets and whites — and nodded toward sculptural romance with draped, folded and pleated details on sheaths and ladylike fare. As for evening, for the most part she kept the trashy skin baring to a minimum with added veiling effects, and she put more focus on architectural structure. That said, there were still some missteps: Many of her tailored constructions looked awkward and ill-fitting, and some of those massive sleeves were unflattering.

Etro: Veronica Etro’s fall collection was a most approachable affair anchored in strong, classic pieces such as pencil skirts, cropped, pleated trousers and silk blouses, done with a toned-down version of her eccentric point of view. Flashy metallics were tempered by tailoring on skirts and blazers and paired with simple sweaters. Long printed dresses were straightforward by Etro standards, and, except for few overzealous fringe and piled patchwork creations, the collection was clean and controlled.

Max Mara: No tricks, no gimmicks. For fall, Max Mara delivered what everyone wants and expects from it: really good coats. From start to finish, the outerwear, which ranged from cashmere trenches to classic, double-breasted coats, was smooth and sophisticated. Any special details or proportion play were subtle, as in the short kimono sleeves that appeared on voluminous belted styles, long and short, and some tailored coats cut without lapels. All of it, including some excellent double-faced reversible shearlings, was done in basic camel, caramel brown, dove gray and red — colors that won’t be dated anytime soon. As for the rest of the clothes, a few sarong skirts, strapless dresses and backless blouses among them, they didn’t have the impact of the outerwear, but they didn’t detract from it, either. Max Mara Atelier: With this just- introduced capsule collection of 17 coats labeled Max Mara Atelier, this fashion powerhouse further raised the luxe bar on its specialty — coats. “They’re stand-alone, long-lasting pieces and each one is constructed like a couture garment,” said Max Mara ceo Achille Maramotti of the coats, which are priced from $1,890 to $3,152 at retail. Among the standouts: handsome camel coats, a one-button ladylike style with roses dotting the collar and a fur-collared tweed topper with embroidery bordering the hem. WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Etro Salvatore Ferragamo Max Mara Max Mara Atelier MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO DAVIDE PHOTOS BY s Bally: In just four seasons, Brian Atwood has spun a luxurious-cum-edgy template for this Swiss brand. Atwood thinks that in these challenging times designers need to entice consumers, and he hopes to do it with a collection inspired by Helmut Newton photos of Bianca Jagger and Charlotte Rampling in sultry poses, with a bit of early Thirties Sunset Boulevard and an Eighties tough edge tossed in. Shapes were billowy and soft, as in printed chiffon blouses or hand-painted devoré styles tucked into cropped baggy pants. Atwood also swathed his girls in luscious printed furs, marabou jackets with chain inserts and metallic sweaters, all shown with black lace leggings. As for accessories, the house’s core, best were the rigid-frame handbags in python or water snake skin and the T-strap platform with an elaborate gold- encased heel. 8 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009

Dsquared Pringle of Scotland Aquilano e Rimondi

Dsquared: As the double-the-pleasure, double-the- a prop — a celebrity tabloid, where this disheveled-chic indulged it yet again for their own line, which was full fun poster boys of Milanese fashion, Dan and Dean look has been well documented on the young Hollywood of pads, peaks and pagoda sleeves, featured on dresses Caten conceived their fall collection as a kiss-off set. As much as this collection was full of great, feel-good and jackets belted over balloon skirts. The clothes to the recession. “So what?” was the apparent pieces, ultimately it was more about style than design. shared Ferré’s dark, glamorous tone but not its severe attitude of their girls, who arrived straight from last architectural effect; the collection was softer but still night’s party, nursing their hangovers with a grande Pringle of Scotland: Claire Waight Keller capitalized on fash- quite arch in its use of Eighties-inspired silhouettes Starbucks, sunglasses the size of blackout curtains and ion’s current tough-girl complex. Her fall collection for that were trim on the bottom with dramatic flourishes a shameless mix of evening gowns and bits borrowed Pringle was stocked with all the elements: a sober palette, up top. It was sharp and striking on several versions from the boys they spent the night with. precise tailoring, men’s wear influences and shoulders. of le smoking and fur-trimmed coats. Elsewhere, it When they weren’t rolling home, they were headed It was softened by the house’s knitwear angle, which pro- turned brooding and romantic. One black sheath came out in a pastiche of glam, grunge and rock ’n’ roll. Slouchy duced stellar blazers and sweater dresses, some done with belted with fuchsia leg-of-mutton sleeves, a shape that cargo pants were paired with plaid shirts and leather abstract houndstooth and herringbone patterns, as well as appeared throughout on covered-up cocktail dresses, jackets trimmed with feathers. A stonewashed denim vest boyfriend cardigans trimmed with fox fur. some sporting bunchy balloon skirts. That’s where the was slung with bejeweled chains; boyfriend blazers went designers got weighed down. Colors were dark, fabrics with miniskirts, and fur party skirts teamed with beat-up Aquilano e Rimondi: As evidenced by their collection for were heavy — thick velvet and stiff silk — and at times T-shirts. Practically every look was paired with glammed- Gianfranco Ferré, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto dramatically embellished with embroideries sprouting up heels and — as the Catens don’t miss an opportunity for Rimondi have an unshakable shoulder fetish. They from suit shoulders. It felt very serious. WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Tod’s Tod’s: After going on a thematic binge in his last few collections, Derek Lam is bringing everything back to the company’s roots. “We started with the traditional, iconic pieces,” said chief executive of- ficer Claudio Castiglioni, “but reviewed the proportions.” He’s talking about the classic boxy D Bag, for one, which has a new soft and slouchy shape for fall. The driver loafers, meanwhile, are turning downright wild, embroi- dered in tiger, zebra and giraffe patterns. There’s also a soupçon of edginess tossed in: Countering ’09 the largely neutral palette of sands and browns are flashes of electric MILAN Eighties hues, as seen in the black ankle bootie with an elastic band of hot pink. As for the clothes, they collections/fall worked the balance of polish and collections/fall downtown chic deftly, too. For instance: the neoprene coat with Tod’s patent leather trim or the quilted jacket with oversize funnel collars.

Hogan: Hogan declared fall open season on the great outdoors, a theme well suited to the house’s sporty nature. All-weather boots done in a streamlined Sorrel style set a rugged, countrified tone that crossed over to excellent shearling handbags and shoes. The look got more refined on suede mary janes and lace-up wedge booties, some decorated with metallic paint. That effect worked especially well on the new Bi Bag, named for its dual properties: two fabrics, two zippers and two ways to wear it — messenger or hobo style. But even on her most rustic days, the Hogan woman is more of a city girl. Thus everything was done with a slick, urban edge, epitomized by Thakoon Panichgul’s capsule collection of outerwear, now in its third season. Here, spring’s techy anoraks inspired more serious, tailored versions in coated nylon with an emphasis on hardware. The same notions took a brighter turn in a series of bold blue and black knit parkas that showed Panichgul’s softer — though no less functional — side and prescient eye toward the economic climate. “I asked myself, ‘How do we cozily protect ourselves?’” Panichgul said.

Hogan Hogan

Fay: Fay’s slow-but-steady pace is turning this brand into a quiet pow- erhouse, thanks to its buzzed-about designer Giles Deacon and an ambitious new general manager, Giulio Guasco. Best known for its high-end outerwear with hook closures, Fay has grown into a $118 million label with celebrity fans including Katie Holmes, Hilary Swank, Katherine Heigl, Pierce Brosnan and Robert Downey Jr. Chief designer for the past three seasons, London-based Deacon has given the brand a sexier and more international appeal, meld- ing his design vision with the brand’s heritage. He added feminine flair to Fay’s staple nylon jacket this season by festooning its collar with grosgrain rosettes. He also punched up down-filled car coats and fitted blazers with colorful flannel or houndstooth linings. He called a slouchy, padded parka and color-blocked ski jackets “rec- MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO DAVIDE ognizable as Fay, but modern and feminine.” Fay recently expanded its collections to include tops, bottoms and knitwear, plus five-pocket jeans for women and men in an array of colors, along with versions in wool flannel and pinstripes. Coming soon is a new Fay logo that will extend to all of the growing product categories. Fay Guasco joined Fay last September from Ralph Lauren’s European Francesco Scognamiglio GIANNONI, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY headquarters in Geneva, where he ALL was senior marketing director for women’s wear and children’s wear. Francesco Scognamiglio: Backstage, Francesco Scognamiglio described His appointment follows a Tod’s his fall femme as a “future warrior that’s supernatural and super Group restructuring plan aimed at elegant.” Make that spellbinding, too. Scognamiglio’s ultrafeminine streamlining operations at the flag- collection unfolded with flair. He played romance against avant- ship Tod’s brand as well as at Hogan For all garde with severe but exquisite tailoring: Ruffs sprouted from peak- and Fay, with each receiving general collections’ shouldered coats, gilded narrow tea-length dresses and organza blouses managers. Eager to grow outside complete run — the looks topped with fantastical hats by Philip Treacy. At times, it Italy, Guasco is aiming to increase of shows, see looked like something out of David Lynch’s “Dune,” but Scognamiglio’s market share in Spain, Germany, lyrical talent shone through. Great Britain and France, followed WWD.com. by North America, where Fay is Pollini: With his second outing for Pollini, Jonathan Saunders served carried by Barneys New York. Fay up an energetic romp that encompassed Baroque, equestrian and has flagships in Milan, Rome and military themes — and a plethora of sleeve action. There were fit- Naples, and is also available at 300 and-flare military jackets with exaggerated cap sleeves, while wholesale doors, including Harrods minidresses in a Baroque scroll print had leg-of-mutton or batwing in London and Attica in Athens. versions. And his gorilla-sleeved outerwear of fur and flannel had a — Alessandra Ilari

Pollini t tough city edge. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009

Antonio Marras: A tin of Nivea cream. That and the childhood memories it Antonio Marras evoked are what inspired Antonio Marras this season. On the runway, that translated into a vintagey thrift shop-military exercise. Out marched a parade of olive green cotton jackets that suggested uniforms, but Marras gave them the girly treatment, with haphazard applications of rosettes, lace patches, ribbons, gold embroidery and beading. They were paired with soft silk skirts or pencil-slim styles in wool. Marras also flexed his tailoring muscle with precision-cut pin-striped pantsuits, often embroidered, as well as egg- shaped coats. Esprit de corps, anyone?

Alessandro Dell’Acqua: Alessandro Dell’Acqua opened the show with Raquel Zimmerman sporting a relatively tame oatmeal-colored blazer, soft and slouchy with gently frayed edges. It made for a refreshing moment, especially after all the tough- as-nails Eighties tailoring seen on the runways this season. But Dell’Acqua, who threw in a few other sportif-chic moments, isn’t exactly your casual go-to guy. His girls are the steamy sort, and the collection that followed was much ado about seduction in a lineup that channeled a primitive-meets- medieval femme fatale. There were chain-mail references aplenty in knits and body-conscious bustier dresses, as well as a mélange of metal hardware, feather accents and mink, muskrat, beaver and fox pelts. And to top it all off, how about handbags embellished with swingy fur tails?

Luisa Beccaria: She may have swapped her usual showroom venue for the grand Villa Necchi but, fashionwise, Luisa Beccaria stuck to her lyrical aesthetic. That meant lots of alluring girly frocks done up with the designer’s signature draping, ruching and pleating. Jackets also got the feminine Luisa Beccaria treatment with shirred collars and daintily ruched bell sleeves, while sexy Giuliana Teso sheaths, strapless columns and tiered lacy numbers came in dusty rose prints and steely grays.

Giuliana Teso: The traditional fur coat is not part of Giuliana Teso’s vocabulary. She prefers to treat furs like fabric, leaning more toward the edgy than the status-y. And that’s what she did in her Sixties-inspired fall lineup. There were swingy mink capes, many boldly showered with colored rhinestones, sure to please high-wattage partygoers, while whipstitched broadtail coats had a more urban feel. Another strong point was her use of mixed furs, as in a terrific three-quarter-sleeved coat in chinchilla and shaved mink. Elsewhere, a blurry rose pattern on silk was used to line the coats or was fashioned into dresses with bows sculpted at the front.

Gabriele Colangelo: Last year’s winner of Vogue Italia and Alta Roma’s Who Is On Next award, Gabriele Colangelo, delivered a terrific fall collection that radiated elegance. The soft, feminine clothes included belted silk dresses and billowy wool coats, both artfully lavished with inserts of papery shaved mink or plissé panels, and some coated with a patina of shimmering crystals. Though the lineup had hints of Lanvin, Colangelo’s effort showed plenty of promise.

Debora Sinibaldi: Pretty, concise and luxurious — that was Debora Sinibaldi’s take on fall in a well- balanced lineup of edgy knits, charming dresses and tony outerwear where details made the difference. For the wovens, Sinibaldi shone with cropped jackets, linear coats and appealing shifts, enriched with jet- bead sprinklings, while her cream- colored knitwear — slouchy sweaters or cardigans with ruffled stand-up collars — were endearing must-haves. WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 11 WWD.COM

MILAN ’09 collections/fall

Alessandro Dell’Acqua

Gabriele Colangelo

Debora Sinibaldi MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY more from the shows... Brioni Agnona Isabella Albino Tonchi Brioni: The chime that jolted the audience out of their seats clearly signaled Brioni’s Japanese theme, delivered in sharply cut kimonolike coats over constricting skirts in a sophisticated but at times overwrought collection.

Agnona: At Agnona, the design team worked cashmere into sporty gray crochet knits, a reversible double-breasted felted coat and an array of chic, easygoing shift dresses.

Isabella Tonchi: Her own handful of shisha-embroidered vintage dresses from India was the starting point for Isabella Tonchi, who photographed them to create prints for a small group of romantic puff-sleeved frocks and ruffled blouses.

Albino: Albino D’Amato punched up simple shapes by manipulating fabric into knots, folds and drapes on soft-shouldered coats and jewel-colored satin dresses, in a collection that demonstrated his élan for stylish clothes.

Ermanno Scervino: The “ooh-la-la” heard on the sound track echoed in Ermanno Ermanno Scervino’s parade of sexy jewel-colored dresses that came short Scervino with lashings of lace, or floor-length with a ruffle that trailed down the back. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 WWD.COM Istithmar’s Jackson Comes to Barneys’ Defense Continued from page one said. “There’s the normal [capital expenditure] plan for these stores.” Barneys, about what’s going on. All of these are unfounded and unwarranted,” Barneys’ last major capital project at the Madison Avenue flagship was a men’s Jackson said. “Barneys is owned by Istithmar and will continue to be owned by made-to-measure suite that opened on the seventh floor last September. It was the Istithmar and will do everything it can to protect that investment. first time the floor had undergone renovation since the store opened in 1993. “I would say most of those [factor] inquiries are general things, about the overall Rumors that Barneys was up for sale began with a media report earlier this year on health of the industry…. Some of the requests coming from factors are unwarranted.” Bloomberg. Subsequently, Reuters ran a report quoting the chairman of Istithmar that So what do the factors want? “Some of it is as simple as providing some informa- Barneys was not up for sale. “Our chairman did say that it is not for sale,” Jackson tion; some things are more tangible in terms of support,” meaning financial support. noted. “We have reiterated that it is not for sale. [The rumor] is completely wrong.” Asked how many factors are at issue, Jackson replied, “Management has indicated to Jackson stressed that it was only after the first news report that some parties us there are four or five conversations they want us to have. showed interest in the company. “We don’t have any agenda to sell this company. We “I most want to put to rest any concerns that these factors have so Barneys’ man- recognize it is a difficult environment, and we don’t think people are going to pay agement can focus on running the business and not on idle speculation about the what is the true equity value for Barneys. Nobody has showed up with an offer for a financial strength of Barneys or concerns about Istithmar standing behind Barneys,” $1 or $1 billion.” added Jackson. Meanwhile, the quest for a Barneys ceo has continued since Howard Socol re- While there have been a few reports of pay- signed last July. “We are still searching, con- ment delays, Barneys, Jackson argued, “has templating,” Jackson said, adding, “We are not met all of its obligations. Barneys continues to ready to appoint anyone at this step. We think pay people. We have done all of the things we we are in a state of flux around the retail en- are supposed to do. Some of the factors have vironment and want to see more data” on the made requests for additional support. It’s not company’s performance to determine the skill universal. We will do what we think is reason- set required to lead the business. able [regarding] those requests,” to ensure “We have seen some tremendous candi- timely deliveries to Barneys stores. dates. We think that any number of them could “Factors play a major role in the indus- make a great ceo. A lot of it depends on where try. We’re hopeful they will be responsible the market for luxury retail shakes out through here and recognize Barneys is a major player. this economic crisis. We got a list of candidates Barneys has continued to pay the factors and that covers the spectrum of what we [might] will continue to. Everyone is on edge given the want,” from a merchant to a financial execu- state of the economy. We don’t think [the fac- tive to a general strategist. tors issue] is Barneys specific. It’s the industry He said the company is down to a “short that’s suffering now…. If appropriate, we will list” of three or four people, all currently gain- provide some level of support to make sure fully employed, and that one will be selected Barneys is not at a competitive disadvantage.” “within the first half of 2009.” So far, the issues with certain factors “have “Searches for ceo’s often take a year. It’s not not affected us from getting merchandise to easy to find people to put in these positions. the stores,” Jackson said. Barneys in The difference was we had hoped Howard “We look at Barneys and benchmark it against Manhattan. might have stayed longer, and that there was a all the major competitors. In the time we have more structured succession plan. owned Barneys, we certainly think Barneys has consistently outperformed its competi- “Not to minimize the value of a ceo, but people don’t seem to realize there is an ex- tive set,” he continued, though he declined to cite any statistics to back up the claim. tremely talented, capable group of individuals [at Barneys] who have been together for Still, reports have proliferated that the four Barneys flagships built within the past a long time,” Jackson added. He said Barneys is currently being run by a committee of three years — in Las Vegas, San Francisco, Dallas and Boston — have been very slow five executive vice presidents along with some senior vice presidents, and “is not handi- since they opened, hampered by the retailer’s narrow appeal with sometimes esoteric capped” by not having a single person in charge. The committee reports to him. Jackson labels that take time for the public to grasp, and of course the economic headwinds. does not run the business but does get involved in financial and other matters. But Jackson argued the verdict on the expansion isn’t in yet. “My view on all of Barneys had sales of over $780 million for the year ended Aug. 2. It’s widely per- those stores is they haven’t been open long enough to make that judgment.” ceived Istithmar overpaid for the retailer, that it will be tough for the investment to He said it takes time for sales to ramp up, even in the best of times. “There isn’t be recouped and that any global expansion would be difficult given Barneys’ unique enough cause for concern to take steps to shut any of them down, he said. “The stores concept and some formidable competition, such as Lane Crawford in Asia. are new; they are operating in a difficult environment.” Istithmar’s issues are compounded by Dubai’s financial turmoil. Late last month, Asked if any Co-ops could be closed, Jackson replied: “We don’t have any immedi- the Dubai government launched a $20 billion long-term bond program which is de- ate plans to close any Co-ops. In a difficult economic environment, we are evaluating signed to replace the funds that have dried up globally in the last 12 months. Dubai, all options. We don’t want to make any decisions based on the market in 2009.” The unlike many of its Arab neighbors, relies on real estate investments for its financial company needs to reflect on assortments, the marketing and other aspects as well, he growth rather than oil. These financial difficulties leave observers wondering just added. “We just need to be patient before we make any draconian decisions on store how much more money Istithmar is willing to pump into Barneys. closings. Our bias is we shouldn’t make any decisions based on market conditions we So far, Barneys has not announced any major layoffs or cutbacks, in sharp con- find ourselves in today.” trast to its luxury competitors, including Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus Inc., He characterized the Madison Avenue, Beverly Hills and Chicago units as “more which have each laid off hundreds of workers. seasoned stores that are doing better,” adding, “They have deep customer bases and As one former executive said, the retailer’s strategy over the past few years has are more known in their markets.” been “flawed. You can still do huge revenue with a few stores, but the Barneys con- When Istithmar bought Barneys from Jones New York in September 2007 for cept can’t be exported everywhere; the merchandise is very special.” over $900 million, expansion in Asia, Europe and the U.S. was a hot topic. The new Estimates of how much the business is currently worth vary widely, from $450 mil- Barneys owner was eager to recoup its investment and prosper from it by growing the lion to much to less. size of the chain and its volume. Since then, the strategy, largely involving building According to retail consultant Jack Abelson of Austin & Associates, “Barneys has a big flagships in major cities, has simmered down. “We are not ready to announce any perception problem. It doesn’t play outside of New York and L.A.” of those expansion plans,” Jackson said. “We continue to believe there are opportuni- Abelson is surprised that Barneys’ ceo post is still vacant. “Does no one want the ties both domestic and international.” job?” he asked. “You’ve got to believe someone wants it. It’s a high-profile position The only imminent development is a replacement flagship in Chicago, which is and could be a terrific job.” That said, however, any chief executive would face enor- expected to open in May, though there are some “normal ongoing” enhancements oc- mous challenges. “You need a leader, especially today. Their lack of leadership has curring, including a few men’s shops in the Madison Avenue flagship, which should really hurt them.” be completed this year. “I wouldn’t characterize them as major renovations,” Jackson — With contributions from Jean E. Palmieri

own comprehensive environment in stores. “[Target] is embracing the entire picture and trying to stay true to Target’s Intuition: More Styles From Hersh the brand, which is kitschy and celebrity-driven,” said Hersh. By Sharon Edelson “We took the trends coming to the market and tried to Thomas noted there will be marketing behind make them accessible to the Target audience based Hollywood Intuition, but provided no details. The closest customers of Jaye on the celebrities that come into my shop,” Hersh said Intuition will bring an element of the Hersh’s trendy Hollywood boutique Hersh said. “I build my relationships with “inside Hollywood secret” to Target stores. “It could be Intuition came to Target was in 2006 my customers and they keep coming back about what celebrities have in their handbags — for ex- when she launched her Target Couture because they like my taste. I’m very ap- ample, a scarf that can be worn as a headband,” Hersh collection with the mass retailer’s proachable; I’m a working mom. That’s said. “The products that we’re featuring will actually be blessing, priced from $25 to $3,000. the Target customer. I’m not a design- very instructional to the guest. ‘This is how you wear a boye Target Couture, (with the accent Jaye er; I’m actually a shopkeeper.” belt bag and turn it into a shoulder bag.’ We’ll present over the “e” for French snob-appeal) Hersh Hollywood Intuition will be sold at all that as a story. The way it’s merchandised will be un- was sold exclusively at Intuition and the Minneapolis-based Target through like anything Target’s done before.” rendered the bull’s-eye in diamonds spring 2010, considerably longer than Thomas said Target was eager to “leverage Jaye and and precious stones and on cashmere tyler photo by the three to four month cycles given her retail expertise and how she’s known for spotting sweaters and high-end jeans. to Go International designer collabora- and exploiting trends.” Now Hersh is getting ready for the tions. In addition to her boutique, Hersh has a show on QVC July launch of a more mass-priced line, “Each designer collection is a little bit where she sells a line called ShopIntuition. “I’m doing a Hollywood Intuition for Target, which different,” said Joshua Thomas, a spokes- how-to book that will be launching with the Target col- includes of-the-moment sunglasses, hand- man for Target. “Go is very much on a short lection,” she said. “It’s going to be really fun.” bags, jewelry, small leather goods, scarves, time frame. The programs vary.” Not bad for a woman who started her business out headbands and hats, priced from $2.99 for a headband Hollywood Intuition will also be merchandised dif- of her car. “I called the store Intuition because it was a to $29.99 for a handbag, and sold only at Target stores. ferently than other brands. The collection will have its way to pay for my kids’ tuition.” WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 13 WWD.COM UNITE HERE Infighting Continues MEMO PAD By Kristi Ellis WIDENING THE WEB: It’s been three years since the true multimedia cross-platforming, the pop star will creation of Hearst Magazines Digital Media and the wear Candie’s apparel, footwear and accessories in a WASHINGTON — In the latest twist in the infighting between the tweaking goes on. After relaunching its own brands music video off her current album, “Circus.” “There two factions of UNITE HERE, the HERE faction has filed a law- online, and acquiring a few along the way, the is a perfect synergy between our Candie’s girls and suit against UNITE as some joint boards and locals begin hold- operation will relaunch Cosmopolitan by the end of Britney’s fan base, and to be able to partner with ing votes to disaffiliate. the year, and there are plans to debut another content her during such a monumental time in her career is Some of UNITE’s 19 joint boards and several locals have al- vertical, although Chuck Cordray, senior vice president very exciting for the brand,” said Dari Marder, chief ready voted to disaffiliate with HERE, and the votes will con- and general manager, declined to say what it will marketing officer, Iconix Brand Group Inc. — without tinue across the country over the next two weeks, according to include. Since breaking off from the iVillage platform any hint of irony. — A.W. Edgar Romney, executive vice president of UNITE HERE and in 2007, sites that were given significant facelifts or manager of the New York area metropolitan joint board. UNITE relaunched last year include Redbook, Esquire, Marie THE RESTRUCTURINGS GO ON: Rodale on Tuesday laid HERE represents 400,000 workers in the apparel, textile, hotel Claire, House Beautiful and Good Housekeeping. So off nearly 20 sales employees as the company shifted and restaurant industries. far this year, Veranda’s site debuted in February and its top sales executives across Men’s Health, Women’s Romney said HERE has filed a court action seeking to block Marie Claire was relaunched. Health and Prevention, and consolidated the sales staffs the disaffiliation process. A spokeswoman representing John Hearst is also planning to introduce a wireless for Men’s Health and Women’s Health into one team. Wilhelm, president of UNITE HERE’s hospitality division, con- electronic reader, which will be the size of a standard One of those departing will be Prevention publisher firmed a lawsuit was filed on Friday but declined to comment on piece of paper. According to a report on fortune.com, Bob Ziltz. To succeed him, Mary Murcko, who had been its substance. Hearst and its partners plan to sell the e-readers to publisher of Women’s Health since 2006, will move Wilhelm went on the defense on Monday with the release publishers and take a cut of the revenue from selling over to Prevention to become senior vice president, of a nine-page white paper, rebutting many of the accusations magazines and newspapers on the devices. A spokesman publisher. Meanwhile, Men’s Health publisher Jack Essig the UNITE faction, led by general president Bruce Raynor, has at the company said there is no launch date yet and was promoted to senior vice president and will serve as made in two federal lawsuits, particularly those relating to al- the device is being developed out of Hearst Interactive publisher for both Men’s Health and Women’s Health. leged failures in increasing membership. Media, which invests in technology companies. The reshuffling is the second round of layoffs for Rodale UNITE, formerly the Union of Needletrades, Industrial & As the company’s interactive media division as nearly all publishers have retrenched in recent Textile Employees, and the larger HERE, the Hotel Employees & works on making an ad-friendly wireless device, its months to battle the economic downturn; the publisher Restaurant Employees International, combined in 2004 with the advertising on its digital brands is moving along. in November dismissed 111 employees across several goal of creating a well-funded and growing labor organization. Cordray expects advertising to be up 30 to 40 percent divisions, or 10 percent of the company’s workforce. But the two unions have been embroiled in a tense power strug- for the first quarter, although comparisons with the The changes come as Men’s Health and Prevention have gle for the past several months between Raynor and Wilhelm, previous year are difficult given relaunches and lost a quarter of their ad pages during the first quarter whose faction represents the majority in the merged union. acquisitions. Ad revenue was up 73 percent in 2008 of 2009 compared with the same period a year ago; The dustup has culminated in three lawsuits — two filed in over 2007 and ad impressions have doubled. Cordray Women’s Health has performed slightly better, reporting federal court by executives of the UNITE faction and the latest said the division is on a trajectory to becoming a 19 percent decline in paging, according to Media filed by HERE — as well as a minority vote by 25 members of profitable by 2010, and Hearst Magazines has 7 to 10 Industry Newsletter. the union’s general executive board approving a resolution to percent of its revenues coming from digital. Meanwhile, further restructuring has been unveiled dissolve the merger. New advertisers this year include Wal-Mart, at Hachette Filipacchi Media U.S., home to Elle, Elle Raynor’s group alleges in one lawsuit seeking dissolution Sears, Gap, Target Beauty and Levi’s. According to Decor and Women’s Day. The company is dividing its that HERE has acted in a fraudulent and deceitful way and has ComScore, all the sites operated by Hearst Magazines women’s titles into three brand groups, led by Carol hijacked financial resources and exerted undue control over the Digital Media see 20 million Smith, senior vice president and union. Wilhelm’s group has denied the allegations and claimed unique visitors a month. And the chief brand officer of the Elle the UNITE faction is “shunning the democratic processes” of digital efforts at Hearst — as Group, Deborah Burns senior the union and violating its constitution. at other magazine companies vp and chief brand officer Romney said he doesn’t believe HERE’s Wilhelm will — continue to be a significant of the luxury design group, be successful in the attempt to “prevent the UNITE side driver of new subscriptions. A which includes Elle Decor and from disaffiliating.” Romney is a former executive of the spokeswoman said 25 percent Metropolitan Home, and Carlos International Ladies Garment Workers Union, which com- of its subscription business is Lamadrid, senior vp and chief bined in 1994 with the Amalgamated Clothing & Textile online now, and more than 90 brand officer of the Woman’s Workers Union to form UNITE. percent that order online are Day Group. Alain Lemarchand, He said there have been discussions on the UNITE side, first-time subscribers, while 30 president and chief executive, which claims to represent 150,000 of the union’s 400,000 mem- percent buy more than one title. said this move is about updating bers, about becoming a division of the Service Employees In total, Hearst had 2.2 million the company’s structure and International Union, which has some two million members, if subscriptions from the Web in its evolution from publishing the breakup and dissolution is successful. 2008, versus 1.1 million the print magazines into becoming “The constitution very clearly prohibits secession from the year before. — Amy Wicks a media company. The changes union,” said Wilhelm’s spokeswoman. She said UNITE HERE were first reported in The Wall has a “very open democratic process” and a convention in June PART OF THE PLAN: As the Street Journal Monday. that will serve as a forum to address UNITE’s issues. attempted rehabilitation of The following editors In the white paper, Wilhelm defended the union’s organizing Britney Spears’ reputation goes in chief of women’s titles drives and said he expects significant gains in the gaming indus- on, the singer-tabloid star has have also been named vice try in the near future. He also raised questions about Raynor’s just signed her first apparel president, brand content: ability to organize workers on a large scale in the industrial endorsement — with Candie’s, Roberta Myers, vp for Elle laundry industry and his record of managing union funds. which is sold exclusively at Group; Margaret Russell vp for Wilhelm alleges Raynor ran up a $328 million operating Kohl’s. In conjunction with her Elle Decor; Donna Warner vp for deficit from 1999 to 2003, liquidated $59 million in union real upcoming tour that kicks off Metropolitan Home and Jane estate to finance the deficit and spent $427 million during the today in New Orleans, Spears Candie’s is Britney Spears’ first apparel Chesnutt is senior vp for the five-year period, for which he was forced to sell the ILGWU’s will be featured in a campaign endorsement. Women’s Day group. The Elle real estate assets. that will run in print, TV, in- Group is looking for a vp, brand Wilhelm also denied the accusation in a UNITE lawsuit that store at Kohl’s and online. Kohl’s and Candie’s will publisher, and vp brand development, which are both HERE was “in perilous financial condition” before the merger. also be part of Spears’ promotional activities, and, in new positions. — Stephanie D. Smith and A.W.

box at the Galleria at Trident in Freida Pinto Mumbai. “The timing is right to Lauder Said in Talks With Freida Pinto bring Estée Lauder to India,” John Demsey, an Estée Lauder group By Julie Naughton president, said at the time, adding that the goal is to “introduce the Market SPECULATION swirled in Milan on Monday that the Estée brand to a whole new generation Lauder Cos. Inc. is in talks to do a spokeswoman deal with “Slumdog Millionaire” maestri davide photo by of women.” star Freida Pinto. The company’s first freestand- An Estée Lauder spokeswoman said the company does not comment on market ru- ing store in the country, for its mors. Pinto’s agent at Creative Artists Agency (CAA) also declined comment Monday. MAC Cosmetics brand, opened in The 24-year-old Bollywood-turned-Hollywood star certainly would be a catch for Mumbai in July 2005. The com- any brand aiming to increase its fortunes in India: she has global awareness and is pany’s Clinique brand, among oth- seen by many as a hometown girl-made-good. In addition to starring in the 2008 sur- ers, is in freestanding distribution prise hit — which gathered eight Academy Awards on Feb. 22, including Best Picture as well. The Estée Lauder brand is — Pinto has signed on to Woody Allen’s latest project, an as-yet-untitled film which sold at more than 18,000 locations will also star Naomi Watts. in 135 countries and territories. In November of last year, WWD reported that management consul- tancy McKinsey estimated India BEAUTY BEAT was expected to maintain gross do- mestic product growth of between And the Estée Lauder Cos. is making moves designed to spike its business in the 7 and 8 percent in the next several country. According to Euromonitor, India’s total beauty business generated sales of years, even with the economic about $4.45 billion in 2007, marking a 47 percent increase over 2002. Last July, the downturn. The McKinsey report Estée Lauder Cos. acquired a minority stake in Forest Essentials, an ayurvedic manu- also stated this could transform facturer of skin, body and hair care products, which is based in a suburb of Delhi. In India into the world’s fifth-biggest June, the first Estée Lauder brand store opened in India — a 485-square-foot jewel consumer economy by 2025. 14 WWD, tuesday, march 3, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

Obama Outlines Trade Policy Agenda 10 Best Performers By Liza Casabona administration inherits a pending case the U.S. filed against China late last year DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt WASHINGTON — President Obama laid out over its “famous brands” program that a trade agenda for 2009 that affirmed allegedly uses subsidies to help promote High Low Last %Change many of the priorities he outlined while Chinese brands in violation of World campaigning, including the elimination Trade Organization rules. The report of unfair trade practices in China and a said the administration will continue to 4.63 4.06 Finish Line (FINL) - 746284 4.56 9.88 willingness to review existing and pend- engage in formal and informal talks with ing free trade agreements. China about its policies, but would not 0.19 0.15 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 2575 0.18 5.88 The office of the U.S. Trade shy away from further actions, like WTO Representative released its first an- proceedings, when necessary. nual president’s trade policy agenda on In keeping with previous statements 1.55 1.54 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 300 1.55 1.97 Monday after sending it to Congressional about the North American Free Trade leaders on Friday. The confirmation Agreement, the agenda indicated the 24.00 22.98 Aeropostale (ARO) 11.1 4133273 23.48 1.25 hearing for Obama’s nominee for USTR, administration would like to work with former Dallas mayor Ron Kirk, is set for Mexico and Canada on ways to improve it. 28.13 27.02 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.0 4618336 27.7 0.95 Monday. Obama inherits a number of pending The report pointed out the agenda trade deals from the previous adminis- 16.84 16.10 Carter (CRI) 12.6 1149424 16.43 0.74 was established “within the context of tration. The agenda indicated the new a financial crisis and rapidly changing administration will move quickly on the economies,” adding “eliminating bar- Panama Free Trade Agreement, but that 9.22 8.43 Hot Topic (HOTT) 22.2 1487751 8.92 0.45 riers to trade in the face of serious tur- additional work was needed on both the moil in our economy and financial mar- Colombian and South Korean pacts. The 5.23 4.755 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 2.3 415947 5.18 0.39 kets will be a challenge.” administration also indicated it would Kirk’s confirmation process became continue to work toward a successful 2.86 2.59 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 4081511 2.7 0.37 a little more complicated on Monday outcome to the Doha Round global trade when the Senate Finance Committee talks seeking to eliminate tariffs on a 8.80 8.15 Orchids Paper (TIS) 15.0 49563 8.73 0.23 announced that Obama’s pick for the wide range of industrial products. top trade chief had underpaid his taxes The ability of the President to nego- from 2005 through 2007. The staff es- tiate trade agreements before bringing timates that total tax adjustments on them to Congress for an up or down vote, Kirk’s amended tax returns for the known as trade promotion authority, is 10 Worst Performers three-year period will be approximately set to expire soon. The USTR report said $9,975. Kirk has agreed to promptly file the White House would only ask Congress DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt amended tax returns. to renew that authority after consulting The Obama administration will con- with the House and Senate on the right High Low Last %Change tinue to address U.S. concerns with constraints to place on it. Democratic China, according to the report, which Congressional leaders have also indicat- included a focus on addressing trade- ed they would like to overhaul how the 0.28 0.12 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 290794 0.17 -43.33 distorting industrial policies. The Obama so-called “fast-track” authority works. 0.80 0.47 eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 406222 0.48 -22.57 Claire’s Sees Uptick in Same-Store Sales 0.59 0.45 General Growth (GGP) 5.9 3931670 0.46 -22.03 By Alexandra Steigrad million. Excluding currency fluctuation, 2.85 2.28 Developers Diversified (DDR) 3.4 7281104 2.34 -20.68 Claire’s said revenue would have de- Claire’s Stores Inc. REPORTED creased 5.4 percent. 11.31 8.91 macerich (MAC) - 3436353 9.3 -18.56 that its same-store sales improved in Comparable-store sales were down January and moved into positive terri- 7.2 percent, including a 7.8 percent de- 1.26 1.01 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 1298239 1.02 -18.40 tory in February. cline in North America, but began to However, in its preliminary report on improve in January and were “slightly results for the fourth quarter ended Jan. positive” in February. During the quar- 2.60 2.08 Talbots (TLB) - 262642 2.08 -18.11 31, the privately held value-priced jewelry ter, Claire’s, which closed 118 under- and accessories retailer said sales and performing North American stores, said 1.17 1.01 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 68448 1.01 -15.83 earnings were pressured down in the final it saved roughly $9 million, and it has quarter of 2008 by declining same-store identified about $20 million in new po- 6.89 5.86 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 119462 5.9 -15.71 sales and damaging currency fluctuation. tential reductions for 2009. The Pembroke Pines, Fla.-based com- For the year, the company expects op- 0.35 0.23 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 0.3 7100 0.28 -15.15 pany, acquired by Apollo Management erating income of between $77 million and LP in 2007, said it expects to record $80 million, versus $114 million in the pre- operating income of between $39 mil- vious year. Claire’s anticipates adjusted lion and $42 million, down from $78 mil- EBITDA of $212 million to $215 million, * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on lion in the year-ago quarter. Excluding compared with $300 million in the previ- the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss cost-cutting initiatives and other items, ous year. Revenue is expected to dip 6.5 francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. adjusted EBITDA (earnings before in- percent to $1.41 billion from $1.51 billion. terest, taxes, depreciation and amor- The company said it is analyzing the tization) is anticipated to be in the $75 “recoverability” of its goodwill and other million to $78 million range, compared assets and expects to record a mate- with adjusted EBITDA of $115 million in rial noncash impairment charge for the Birks & Mayors Posts $42.7M Loss the 2007 quarter. quarter, which will be disclosed when it Claire’s projected net sales to fall releases its audited fourth-quarter re- A pullback in luxury spending collided with an impairment 12.2 percent, to $393 million from $447.4 sults in April. charge and damaging foreign currency fluctuation to throw Birks & Mayors Inc. for a third-quarter loss. For the three months ended Dec. 27, the Montreal-based jeweler posted a net loss in brief of $42.7 million, or $3.76 a diluted share, compared with net income of $12.7 million, or $1.09 a share, in the year-ago quarter. Excluding the impact of a goodwill impair- • ASPEN CLOSURE: Even though Aspen, • WATERFORD WEDGWOOD FINDS BUYER: ment charge and deferred tax asset valuation allowance, net income slipped 77.7 per- Colo.’s climate seems like a suitable en- The U.K. and Irish businesses of cent to $2.8 million, or 25 cents a share. Revenue slid 28.2 percent to $88.1 million vironment for all kinds of fur, J.Mendel Waterford Wedgwood, the 250-year- from $122.6 million, and comparable-store sales decreased 23 percent. decided not to renew its lease at 461 old company that produces Wedgwood Quarterly gross margin fell to 42.6 percent of sales from 48.5 in the prior-year pe- East Hopkins Avenue there. The unit tableware, Royal Doulton china and riod. The retailer said the 590 basis point decline was in large part due to the com- is expected to close at the end of this Waterford crystal, has been sold to KPS pany’s decision in November 2007 to lower the retail prices of certain products sold month. President and chief operating of- Capital Partners, a New York-based pri- in Canada to reduce price disparity with the U.S. market. ficer Susan Sokol said that the location vate equity group. Closing of the trans- “The entire luxury retail sector was dramatically affected by the abrupt and se- “was far too removed from where the ac- action, which requires KPS to purchase vere nature of the economic downturn, banking crisis and unprecedented drop in tion is in that town. We have been very some of the company’s overseas assets consumer confidence during the quarter,” president and chief executive officer Tom focused on improving our retail mix of and is believed to include its U.S. busi- Andruskevich said. “As a result, our company experienced significant decreases in locations. J.Mendel is only interested ness as well, is expected in March. The store traffic, average sale, net sales and operating profits.” in opening freestanding boutiques in company was placed into administration In the nine months, the net loss came to $46.6 million, or $4.11 a share, versus the most prime locations in the world.” — the U.K. equivalent of Chapter 11 — in net income of $7.2 million, or 61 cents a share, last year. Stripping out the impact of J.Mendel has freestanding stores in January after failing to execute a finan- special items recognized during the third quarter, the net loss was $1.1 million, or such locations as Madison Avenue in cial restructuring due to poor market 10 cents share. Revenue fell 11.5 percent to $221.7 million from $250.5 million, and New York, Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, conditions. A spokeswoman for Deloitte, comps fell 14 percent. North Michigan Avenue in Chicago and the company’s administrator, did not dis- The company operates 69 jewelry stores in the U.S. and Canada. Stoleshnikov Pereulok in Moscow. close the price KPS would pay. — A.S. WWD, TUESDAY, MARCH 3, 2009 15 WWD.COM OBITUARIES Penny exciting and so stimulating for everybody.” Proddow together Proddow and Fasel curated exhibits for the likes of Jewelry Editor, Curator Penny Proddow Fred leighton and also co-authored books on jewelry. on her own, Proddow also wrote children’s books based on the classics. Penny Proddow, a jewelry editor, curator and educator, died in “She was a great woman,” said efraim Grinberg, chairman and her Manhattan home on Saturday at the age of 65. chief executive of Movado Group inc., who worked with Proddow the cause of death was ovarian cancer, according to Marion Fasel, her business since the mid-nineties. “on top of how nice and sweet she was, colleague with whom she was a contributing editor of fine jewelry and watches for in she was always discovering trends in jewelry and watches. She Style magazine, as well as co-author of several books. had an elegance and class that everyone can look up to.” Born in washington, d.c., Proddow grew up in Greenwich, conn., and graduated tiffany chairman and ceo Michael j. Kowalski said, “working from Miss Porter’s School in 1961 and Bryn Mawr college in 1965. She began her ca- with Penny was a joy and an inspiration. Her unrestrained pas- reer in the classics, focusing on the study of Greek and roman history. She moved to sion for jewelry was always uplifting and never failed to remind Manhattan in 1967, where she lectured children ages eight to 15 on the classics at the us of the beauty and joy that is the heart and soul of what we do.” Metropolitan Museum of art for over 35 years. Proddow was also known for supporting emerging talent. in 1967, she met ralph esmerian, the third-generation arts and antiquities col- “She was so enthusiastic and had so much knowledge,” said de- lector, for whom she helped determine the provenance of over 5,000 cameos in his signer Philip crangi. namesake collection. Proddow worked until just a few weeks ago alongside Fasel. “She was a magical person,” said esmerian, who owns vintage jeweler Fred “Penny was the most humorous and witty person, and that was leighton. “She spanned worlds and could go from the renaissance to the ancients. how she viewed our work,” said Fasel. “She was the most up- She also spanned the worlds of new designers and new jewelry. with that she retained beat person and had the most unique sense of style.” the marvelous freshness that only children have.” a private burial for Proddow will take place on Saturday in Martha nelson, director of time inc.’s Style and entertainment Group and found- nantucket. donations in Proddow’s name are being accepted ing editor of in Style, concurred. “Penny was just the kind of person that you dream at the development department of the Metropolitan Museum about meeting in new york city,” said nelson, who hired Proddow and Fasel at in of art. a memorial service is being planned. Proddow has no Style as contributing jewelry editors in 1996. “She took this incredible intellect and immediate survivors. intelligence and passion and focused it on jewelry, fashion and style and made it so — Sophia Chabbott

ager there, the company plans to continue manufactur- the formalwear company went through a bankruptcy, ing suits under the lebow name. the rights to the brand were acquired by abraham Suit Maker Alan J. Lebow lebow’s grandfather, abraham, was a garment maker Zion. However, Zion let the trademark lapse and alan j. leBo w, a tHird-Generation Men’S whose son, joseph, founded lebow clothes in the early lebow regained control of the family brand in the wear veteran and owner of the lebow clothes tailored 1900s and built it into a major men’s wear manufacturer. eighties and licensed it to Hartz & co, which created clothing brand, died on Feb. 23 of a heart attack at his at its peak in the Fifties and Sixties, lebow clothes em- a luxury suit and sportcoat collection sold to promi- home in Palm Beach, Fla. He was 81. ployed several thousand workers and sold its suits to nent men’s retailers like Guffy’s in atlanta and james over 500 people attended his burial services at the many independent men’s specialty stores that flour- davis in Memphis. temple emanu-el in Palm Beach on Friday. “He spent ished during that era. “alan was a born-and-bred clothing guy from the old his entire life in the men’s clothing industry,” recalled alan lebow got his start in his father’s business school,” said john carroll, owner of the three upscale his wife Patricia lebow, an attorney. “He was the con- at the age of eight, sweeping fabric remnants from carroll & co. stores in Beverly Hills, Pasadena and summate men’s clothing salesman.” the company’s Baltimore factory floor. after study- Montecito, calif., which did business with lebow dur- lebow was best known for running the high-end ing at Pennsylvania Military academy (now widener ing the Hartz & co. days. “i don’t ever remember a day alan lebow and lebow clothes labels while they were university) and the Philadelphia college of textiles, he when he wasn’t in a suit. He loved the product and un- licensed to Hartz & co. from 1986 to 2006. when Hartz was drafted into the u.S. army in 1945 and served in derstood clothing better than most.” & co. went out of business three years ago, lebow li- Germany. at the close of world war ii, he joined lebow apart from his wife, lebow is survived by a daugh- censed the brands to Bremen, Ga.-based Sewell clothes, clothes, where he spent his entire career. ter, amanda. a division of the Sewell cos. according to a sales man- in 1969, lebow clothes was sold to after Six. when — David Lipke

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