INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS/SECTION II FACING STRONG HEADWINDS

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WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

Richard A. Baker Tom Murry Norma Kamali

Carol Goll WWDBRAND 2011 CEO SUMMIT EVERYWHERE

Victoria Beckham Firmly Focused

From Calvin Klein to Victoria Beckham, Bottega Veneta to Lord & Taylor, speakers at the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit at The Plaza hotel in New York discussed how sticking to their brand values have enabled them to thrive in these turbulent times of social media, a booming China and an ever-changing consumer. For complete coverage, see pages 10 to 19.

Remo Peter Federico Ruffini Williams Marchetti

Haider Ackermann ALL PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO ALL PHOTOS BY

IN WWD TODAY

Women’s Designer Lags at Saks PAGE 4 Burberry’s Flagship Raleigh Denim’s RETAIL: Reporting strong third-quarter Strategy PAGE 4 Local Taste PAGE 6 results, Saks Inc. admitted that women’s FINANCIAL: Angela Ahrendts, DENIM: Using old machines and USA cotton, designer apparel sales struggled — and Burberry’s chief executive officer, Raleigh Denim is thriving in North Carolina — expressed concerns about the category in said the opening of major flagships and has just opened a store in Raleigh, the fourth quarter. will fuel the firm’s future growth. with eyes to add a unit in Manhattan. 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Comps Rise, American Eagle Taps Hanson more than two decades with Levi Strauss & Co., Profit Falls 2.9 Percent By JEAN E. PALMIERI most recently as global president of the Levi’s brand, resigned from his position. According FORMER LEVI’S EXECUTIVE Robert Hanson to sources, Hanson had been disappointed not By SHARON EDELSON has gotten himself a new gig. to have been named ceo of Levi’s when the San American Eagle Outfitters said late Tuesday Francisco-based jeansmaker appointed Chip PROFIT AT WAL-MART STORES INC., the world’s largest retail- that Hanson will become its new chief executive Bergh ceo in September. Bergh, a former Procter er, declined 2.9 percent in the third quarter, but after nine consec- officer, effective Jan. 30. Hanson will succeed & Gamble executive, succeeded John Anderson, utive quarters of revenue declines the company on Tuesday said James O’Donnell, who who had retired from its namesake division recorded a quarterly increase. has been at the head of Robert Hanson Levi’s after a 32-year Wal-Mart earned $3.33 billion, or 97 cents a share, in the the Pittsburgh-based re- career there. In an e- three-month period ended Oct. 28. That compares with $3.43 bil- tailer since 2002. mail to Levi’s licensing lion, or 95 cents a share, in the year-ago period. Earnings per “After an extensive partners, Hanson wrote: share for last year’s third quarter included a $191 million tax search, we believe Robert “After an incredible, al- benefit, which was about 5 cents a share. is the ideal person to most 24-year career with The retailer said it expects fourth-quarter EPS of $1.42 to build on AEO’s strengths, Levi Strauss & Co., it’s $1.48 and full-year EPS of $4.45 to $4.51. maximize our portfolio time for a new chapter Net sales increased 2.7 percent to $63.8 billion, driven by a of brands across North in my life, time for me to higher ticket, but shoppers made fewer trips compared with last America and propel our ‘Go Forth,’” a reference to year’s third quarter. brands into new markets Levi’s current advertising Consolidated net sales rose 8.2 percent to $109.5 billion in the across the world,” said campaign. According to a third quarter, from $101.2 billion in 2010. The increase includ- Jay Schottenstein, chair- Securities and Exchange ed $2.1 billion in sales from acquisitions in the U.K. and South man of American Eagle. Commission filing, Africa and a currency exchange translation benefit. Without the “He brings extensive ex- Hanson will receive $2.29 acquisitions and currency benefit, consolidated net sales in- perience in the apparel million, payable in install- creased 4.8 percent in the third quarter. industry and global brand ments over 18 months, International net sales rose 20 percent over last year’s third positioning. In Robert, we and a lump-sum payment quarter to $32 billion. have an individual who of $600,000 payable 30 Total comp-store sales in the U.S., excluding fuel, were 1.9 possesses a unique blend days after his resignation percent for the 13-week period. Without inflation, same-store of merchandising, innova- becomes effective Nov. 27. sales would have increased 0.6 percent. Comp-store sales at Wal- tive marketing and strong Hanson, 48 will bring a Mart U.S. rose 1.3 percent, and at Sam’s Club, 5.7 percent, ex- operational skills, with a fresh energy to American cluding fuel. Wal-Mart is forecasting comp sales for the fourth proven ability to inspire Eagle, which operates quarter to be flat to up 2 percent. and lead creative apparel nearly 1,000 stores in the “Every business sector is stronger,” said Mike Duke, chief ex- and retailing teams.” U.S. and Canada and tar- ecutive officer of Wal-Mart Stores.“Our overall performance re- “AEO’s brands are gets 15- to 25-year-old flects that we are driving productivity, leveraging expenses and highly relevant to today’s girls and guys. investing in price leadership.” consumers, with incred- Gilbert Harrison, Duke attributed the improved results to expanded assort- ible future potential,” said chairman of Financo, ments — the program to restock stockkeeping units that were Hanson. “I look forward to starting on Jan. 30, 2012 Inc., who spent six years on the board of American previously slashed is almost completed. Also, integration of and working with the talented team of associates Eagle, said Hanson’s “ability to grow American technology with associate productivity programs has improved. to continue to build on the very strong foundation Eagle will be significant and he will create value Health and wellness, electronics and hardlines improved, but that is already in place.” for the brand, especially as it grows globally in its apparel had a low-single-digit negative comp. Men’s and ladies Since March, the retailer has been searching next phase.” apparel, with a focus on core basics, had the strongest sales. for a successor to O’Donnell, 70, who informed Last week, American Eagle revealed sales for the Expanded shoe departments and assortments recorded the first the board at that time of his intention to retire. third quarter ended Oct. 29 increased 11 percent to positive quarterly comp in more than two years. O’Donnell agreed to stay on until a successor was $832 million, compared with $753 million last year. Wal-Mart’s consumer continues to be financially challenged, named and through a transition period. Comparable-store sales rose 5 percent. The retailer trading down to lower price points or trading out of certain cat- About two weeks ago, Hanson, who had spent will report third-quarter earnings on Nov. 30. egories, Duke said. In a Wal-Mart survey, only one out of 10 moms viewed the state of the economy as good, he added. The retailer is gearing up for the holidays, shouting its “Everyday Low Price” mantra in a variety of media, from print to digital. Layaway volume is exceeding plan and there’s a zero Dolce & Gabbana Jewelry Hits Stores percent financing offer on the Wal-Mart credit card. MILAN — Dolce & the Virgin Mary. Precious ma- Wal-Mart, which has opened on Thanksgiving Day for several Gabbana’s first line of jew- terials include tricolor gold, years, will begin at 10 p.m. this year with price rollbacks. elry hits stores today in rubies, sapphires and pearls. The retailer is integrating its stores and Web site and mobile apps Milan, Paris and London. Charms range from hand- and reaching out to customers via social media. Citing the 3,800 Wal- The collection, which bows engraved keys and coins to Mart U.S. units and 120 distribution centers, Duke said, “Wal-Mart in the U.S. in December, hearts, hexes and horseshoes, can offer multichannel access in a way that no other retailer can.” will be available at the dangling from bracelets and necklac- Gross profit dollars were up 1.9 percent over last year’s third brand’s boutiques only. es, or from rings as pendants. quarter to $17.9 billion, while the gross margin rate fell about 22 Retail prices range from The designers presented the col- basis points. Operating expenses dropped 41 basis points as a $975 to $24,500. lection during Milan Fashion Week in percentage of sales and SG&A rose 70 basis points compared to The 80-piece line hing- A piece from September. Gabbana said at the time last year’s same period. es on Domenico Dolce Dolce & Gabbana. that the jewelry is “unmistakably Dolce Wal-Mart International’s net sales for the third quarter rose 20.3 and Stefano Gabbana’s & Gabbana.” According to Dolce, the jewels percent to $32.4 billion. Changes in currency translation increased personal iconography rooted in Sicilian “have an intimate feel, they almost look like you net sales by $1.3 billion. Sam’s Club’s third-quarter net sales rose 9.5 tradition: crosses, black jade rosaries could have inherited them.” percent over last year to $13.3 billion, helped by strong fuel sales. and delicate filigree ceramic images of — LUISA ZARGANI

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NM 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM

The holographic Full-Price Selling Aids Saks in Quarter fashion show. women’s designer. The executives would not By DAVID MOIN comment on whether the fourth quarter would be any more or less promotional than last year, SAKS INC. POSTED a good third quarter but, look- citing competitive concerns. ing ahead, there are some concerns about women’s Total sales in the 2011 quarter rose 5.1 percent designer apparel going into the holiday season. to $692.3 million from $658.8 million a year ago. Getting an assist from shoppers buying more at Comparable-store sales increased 5.8 percent. full-price, the retailer posted net income of $17.8 Sadove forecast mid- to high-single-digit compa- million, or 11 cents a diluted share, for the third rable-store sales gains and a mid-single-digit in- quarter ended Oct. 31. ventory increase in the fourth quarter, and added “We had fewer promotions,” Stephen I. Sadove, that sales held up during the third quarter, though chairman and chief executive officer of Saks Inc., they were not as robust as in the first half. In a told WWD. “We eliminated cosmetics from a conference call, he said, “The macroeconomic ‘friends and family’ promotion and we had one environment continues to be challenging and the less day on our point event during October.” financial markets have been especially volatile, Sadove also said that operating income in the which has resulted in deceleration in our sales quarter rose to 5.7 percent of sales from 4.8 per- trends, versus the very robust first half of the year. cent last year. “I am especially pleased with our However, our overall business remains healthy.… 160-basis-point improvement in our third-quarter We will continue to approach the future both cau- gross margin rate,” to 44.2 percent, Sadove said. tiously and strategically.” The best-performing categories last quarter In the third quarter of 2010, Saks earned $36.3 were women’s contemporary apparel, women’s million, or 20 cents a share, but that included a shoes, handbags, jewelry and men’s apparel, $26.7 million, or 14 cents a share, gain related to shoes and accessories. Also, Florida stores did the reversal of certain estimated income tax re- very well. serves deemed no longer necessary. Excluding However, women’s designer apparel had some this gain, Saks would have recorded net income of issues. “There was a little bit of a slowdown in $9.7 million, or 6 cents a share, last year. certain businesses in women’s apparel. There Aside from the good results, executives cited were several delivery-related issues,” Sadove some other accomplishments in the third quarter, noted. “The business had been very robust,” in among them: renovating and recasting the Wear the first half of this year, he said, adding that he Now bridge floor at the Fifth Avenue flagship; en- didn’t believe there was any underlying softness abling visitors to saks.com to now see what Saks in the women’s business. stores carry products they’re interested in, and Forever 21 Readies Having said that, Sadove warned, “We may completing an extensive renovation of the Palm have to take more markdowns in women’s appar- Desert, Calif., store. el” in the fourth quarter. Saks Direct posted a 24 percent sales increase Hong Kong for Store According to Ron Frasch, president, a “mod- for the third quarter, while the Off 5th outlet di- est” decline in gross margins is expected in vision’s comparable-store sales performance was the fourth quarter, related to increased invest- below the company’s aggregate comparable-store By ELLEN SHENG ments in shoes as well as the performance in sales performance. MACAU — Forever 21 brought its holographic fashion show to the MGM Grand hotel here. The show, which was presented Burberry Banks on Flagship Markets to local media, was a curtain raiser for the company’s first store open- ing in Hong Kong, slated for early By SAMANTHA CONTI Burberry’s retail locations next year. Forever 21 is preparing are driving growth. to open a 51,000-square-foot unit in LONDON — Burberry’s burgeoning fleet of retail Causeway Bay, one of the city’s busi- stores in 25 flagship markets worldwide will con- est shopping districts. tinue to be the engine behind growth, said a bull- “It will be one of our largest ish Angela Ahrendts during a conference call after storefronts worldwide,” said Larry Linda Chang the company reported first-half profits Tuesday. Meyer, Forever 21’s executive vice Burberry’s chief executive officer said that in president, who was at the event. the six months to Sept. 30, sales were “very strong The megastore will take up four stories in the Capitol Centre, and balanced” in cities such as London, New a six story building that was formerly home to Hong Kong-based York, Paris, Dubai and Hong Kong, and that retail apparel retailer Giordano. The monthly rent for the store will stores in Burberry’s flagship markets generated come be $11 million Hong Kong dollars, or $1.4 million. more than 60 percent of revenue. Forever 21 is also planning to open similarly megasized stores “We have 25 ‘Londons’ around the world — in Beijing and Shanghai next year. that’s the way we think about it, and that’s where Linda Chang, senior marketing manager, said the company has the business is focused now,” said Ahrendts. been preparing to enter the greater China market for four years. “What we’re talking about are high-demographic Forever 21 currently has two stores in Japan and two in South Korea. markets that have a strong local clientele and that “We tested the markets there and with the really great re- cater to traveling luxury consumers.” sponse we’ve gotten we feel like we’re prepared now to enter Profits at Burberry rose 26 percent to 115.9 Burberry said Tuesday that planned capital China. It’s such a huge market we wanted to make sure that we million pounds, or $187.8 million, in the period. expenditure remains at 180 million pounds to 200 didn’t just enter it haphazardly. We wanted to do our research As reported, sales rose 29.4 percent to 829.6 mil- million pounds, or $286 million to $320 million, for and find the right location,” she said. lion pounds, or $1.34 billion. All figures have the 2011-12 year. Chang, who arrived in Hong Kong only two hours be- been converted at average exchange rates for the A net eight mainline stores opened in the first fore the fashion show, said she’d be staying here for a couple six months. half, and the company said there would be a con- days to check out progress on the store. The store will offer Burberry said that during the six-month period, tinued focus on “flagship openings and refurbish- all of Forever 21’s subbrands, such as Heritage 1981, Love 21 comparable retail store sales increased 16 percent, ments in high-profile markets.” Contemporary plus men’s and kids lines. driven by the monthly flow of Ahrendts named Istanbul, “As we enter, we’re going to keep a close eye on things. That’s new product, enhanced re- New Delhi and Brazil’s major what our strength is. We respond very quickly to what the cus- plenishment processes, the cities as having the potential tomers in each demographic area respond to. What we’ve found global buy, sales and service of New York and London. historically opening in international countries, what has worked initiatives. The balance of “There are pockets all over in the U.S. for the past 27 years really does work everywhere growth came from new stores the world” with pent-up de- else. The age demographic is very wide — from young pre-teens globally, as well as the units mand, she said, adding, “The to grandmothers,” she said. Burberry acquired in China. luxury sector is projected to Chang said the company isn’t planning on designing apparel Ahrendts also swatted be up 10 percent next year, specifically for the greater China market, though “we will be tai- away persistent questions and the flagship markets are loring some of the styles according to what we think will be ap- from media outlets about also projected to rise.” propriate to the market.” the dangers of a slowdown in Burberry said revenue She also said that pricing would be comparable to prices in Chinese demand. from nonapparel — such as the U.S., noting that in the U.K., the company keeps prices com- “China generates 10 per- large leather goods, men’s parable, despite the 20 percent value-added tax by sacrificing cent of our global revenue, accessories and soft accesso- some of its profit margin. so we are not overly depen- ries — remained the largest Chang, Meyer and other Forever 21 executives mingled a bit dent on it. It’s a fast-growing product division, generating with the local Hong Kong media after the 20 minute fashion market, and we are invest- 39 percent of wholesale and show, which replaced real live models with 3-D video images. ing there,” she said. “But of retail revenue. Forever 21’s upcoming store opening in Hong Kong comes as our 25 flagship cities world- Emerging markets, such as a number of global retailers are finding their way to the market. wide, just two are in China. China and the Middle East, The Gap is planning a store opening in the city’s Central district Burberry plays in Beijing accounted for 19 percent of later this month while Abercrombie & Fitch will be opening a and Shanghai. It does not A Burberry ad. wholesale and retail revenue store down the street in the historic Pedder Building bumping play across China.” in the period. out Shanghai Tang, which had been in that spot for 17 years. ª
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Mrs. Lauder, your li le pink ribbon forever changed the world.

And we are forever grateful. 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM denim A look from Raleigh Denim. Denim Habit To Open 3rd NYC Store Just about the only item on Shulick’s to-do list for By ARNOLD J. KARR 2011 that hasn’t been completed is the transformation of the brand’s Web site, denimhabit.com, into an e-com- EVEN E-COMMERCE has had to take a backseat at merce venture. “We got spread a little thin with all we Denim Habit. did with new stores, but we expect to be able to do busi- The Philadelphia-area women’s premium denim ness on the Web very soon, possibly by the end of the specialist, which opened its first New York unit in the month,” the executive told WWD. Meatpacking District last month, opened its second unit Meanwhile, he’s encouraged by the initial reaction in Manhattan, in the Murray Hill section at 525 Third to the Murray Hill store and “beyond pleased” with the Avenue, last Friday, and will pull off the feat of tripling performance of the Meatpacking District unit as it ap- its New York presence in less than one month this Friday, proaches the end of its first month in business. “It’s still when it hits the Upper East Side with a store at 1335 very early, but we’re well ahead of projections so far,” Third Avenue. Both of the stores were previously units of Shulick said, reminded of initial expectations of a store Raleigh Denim Takes National Jean Co. and measure about 1,100 square feet, that could gross $3 million in sales in its first year. about half the size of the Meatpacking District store. Until last month, Denim Habit was strictly a sub- Artisanal Approach urban Philadelphia phenomenon, with stores at The Promenade in Marlton, N.J., The firm’s Meatpacking District store. and Suburban Square in Ardmore, Pa. The brand assortment mirrors that of the original By SHARON EDELSON stores, as well as that of the National Jeans operation, with such premium denim labels YOU COULD SAY THAT Raleigh Denim is a labor as Adriano Goldschmied, DL1961, Henry & of love. Belle, Hudson and J Brand sharing space. The Raleigh, N.C., denim company was started in Denim Habit mixes in a number of exclusive 2007 almost on a whim by Sarah Lytvinenko and her denim and sportswear items, such as Dylan husband, Victor, who happens to be her high school Alexa. Denim accounts for 43 percent of sweetheart. When a pair of pants Victor loved began sales, a number that dips in the summer and unraveling, he took them apart and tried to figure advances in the fall. out how they were made so that he could replicate “I wasn’t completely sold on colored denim,” them. Sarah, who had some patternmaking experi- Shulick said, “but it’s on fire, has turned out to ence, helped. To learn more about how the garment be huge and looks like it will continue.” was made, Victor visited old mills in the mountains Denim Habit has been among the specialty of North Carolina and discovered people who had retailers that have been able to sustain mo- great sewing skills, but not much work. After learn- mentum in the premium denim area by treat- ing everything they could about the construction of ing the category more like sportswear and the pants, the couple decided to make some jeans actively integrating sportswear into its jeans without using automated machines. presentation, much as a number of top brands “When we put our back pockets on, we iron and Denim Habit and National Jean Co. are both divi- have supplemented their denim offerings with compatible then single stitch them,” Sarah said, adding that it sions of NJC Holdings, but it’s Denim Habit, with its sportswear. “Our customers pretty much dictate to us what takes a lot longer than the seven seconds it takes a more contemporary aesthetic and smaller footprint, they want, and this approach has certainly been working,” machine. “We make 150 pairs of jeans in a week and that’s currently the focus of the company. Shulick said. “We’re getting more units per sale than we a denim factory makes 50,000.” “We want to build the Denim Habit brand in the city used to, and average unit retail is pretty good. Our mix is The Raleigh Denim Web site explains that North and eventually become the dominant retailer of pre- better, and the economy is better. That all helps.” Carolina was a mainstay of denim a long time ago mium denim on the East Coast, covering Connecticut to Its next venture might take it out of Manhattan. and that “shuttles carried a single thread back and Washington,” said Wayne Shulick, president and chief Declining to disclose specific details because of nondis- forth, weaving beautiful selvage into denim.” operating officer of the company. “We’ve got a number of closure agreements, Shulick said that the company is The Lytvinenkos found those original selvage other projects we’re looking into right now that should currently in negotiations regarding an acquisition for “a looms at Cone Mills’ White Oak plant in Greensboro. enable us to grow both organically and through acquisi- Denim Habit project in the Tristate area.” Talks are ex- A small fraction of the machines were still running tion, but taking advantage of the opportunity to get three pected to be completed by the first week of next month, and Raleigh Denim began working with the plant. stores in operation in a short time span has certainly with a new concept ready to launch by the end of March. “White Oak has been significantly downsized,” Sarah helped elevate the brand.” “After that, we’ll start revisiting Manhattan again,” he said. said. “When we started, the machines weren’t run- ning all the time. Now, they’re running constantly. We have our own selvage with a white stripe. We’re working with a dye house in Farmville, N.C. We have colors like felon orange and artillery red. We do use Alberto Distressing Jeans With Nature’s Help some denims that are not ours.” GERMAN BOTTOMS specialist Alberto chain. By testing its washes in natural weather Sarah said the company occupies a niche be- is taking its pursuit of the “green jean” conditions, Alberto’s trial methods are now tween standard production and being small enough to the extreme. also becoming more sustainable. to be considered artisinal. “We could triple in size The men’s bottoms firm has a de- “A traditional wash simply replicates a nat- with the addition of one or two people,” she said. cidedly low-tech experiment going on ural process in an artificial way,” Lanowy ex- “There are resources we could tap to help us with up on the roof of its headquarters in plained. “So why not use the natural resourc- production.” Raleigh Denim’s sales for the year will Mönchengladbach, Germany. In an ef- es we have to discover interesting effects?” be $1.2 million, Sarah said, adding that the compa- fort to explore new washes, it’s now nine The managing director added that the brand ny plans to double its sales volume next year. months into a one-year weathering project was planning to continue testing more styles Raleigh Denim’s prices range from $240 to $285 for its ADenim jeans line, one that scraps after the first prototypes have gone into produc- for men’s jeans, which are sold at Barneys New York, low-ozone and low-water-consumption tion, perhaps giving a glimpse of what the future Need Supply, Union Made, The Bureau and Oak, Leaf technologies in favor of completely natu- of denim washes could look like at the house. + Acorn. The women’s jeans are a younger product ral practices in pursuit of what could be ADenim’s collection currently includes and the couple is talking to retailers about carrying considered purely “green jeans.” around 25 washes, and with its rooftop mod- them. All jeans are hand-signed on the pocket and “We were left with a lot of roof space els launching for spring 2013, the managing stamped with a number on the leather patch. here,” said Marco Lanowy, one of three director is hoping to add five more finishes To further build the brand, the Lytvinenkos managing directors at Alberto. “So we to the line. Retail prices have yet to be final- opened The Curatory, whose name comes from the wanted to test our jeans and find out what ized and the company declined to provide words “curated” and “laboratory.” The store-cum- would happen to the denim fabric if it an overall sales volume. Manufactured in showroom behind the Raleigh Denim workshop is was permanently exposed to the weather. Casablanca, Morocco, ADenim is operating in in the warehouse section of the city that’s populated What do jeans bleached by the sun look six markets: Germany, Switzerland, Austria, by restaurants and art galleries. In addition to their like? What happens during heavy rain- Canada, Benelux and Russia. Its roof-wash own brand, the Curatory sells Band of Outsiders, fall or snow? How much can these jeans jeans will be distributed across an estimat- Billy Reid, Epice, Ashley Brodie Jewelry and stand, and how soon do they weather?” ed 120 doors. Also, still up for discussion Organic by John Patrick. Sarah said Raleigh Denim Manually secured by stones or tied to are dedicated information boards about the is collaborating with Patrick on women’s wear for the building’s fire escape, some of the project at point-of-sale, but Lanowy said that fall. There’s a collaboration with Eco Domani win- 12 prototypes on the roof are already whether or not these come to fruition, the ner Native Son in the works for men’s wear. Raleigh revealing unique washing effects. “We Jeans weathered on the roof weathering tale is a good anecdote for retail- Denim is also working on a collection beyond denim took a few of them down, and there are of Alberto’s headquarters. ers to discuss with their customers. “There’s a that will include shirts for men, and skirts, dresses some nice transitions and distinctions story behind those jeans,” he noted. and shirts for women as well as a leather shift dress showing up,” Lanowy noted. “A summer-bleached pair, Meanwhile, the prototypes from the roof will be auc- with a drop waist and jackets in leather and canvas. for example, is basically white in the front now, whereas tioned off for a charity benefiting homeless kids. Or, as Raleigh Denim is looking for a home in the back still looks brand new.” Lanowy put it, “children without a roof.” Manhattan, a 900-square-foot (or smaller) space. ADenim has already taken steps to use organic ma- This week, Mönchengladbach is expecting highs in the Sarah said she’s leaning toward NoLIta or the terials certified by the international Oeko-Tex Standard low 50s and lows in the low 30s, with sunshine early in Meatpacking District. Initially surprised by the 100, which provides criteria on potentially harmful sub- the week and an increasing chance of rain Thursday and rents, Sarah said, “So far, we’re self-financed, but stances for products at all points throughout the supply Friday. Good weathering weather. — JENNIFER WIEBKING we have interested parties we may need to call on.” A life lived beautifully.

Evelyn H. Lauder

We celebrate a remarkable spirit whose beautiful life is measured in the countless lives she touched. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 Retail Sales Slip in October Apparel Inflation Eases merchandise stores were 3.8 percent WASHINGTON — Pressure from high earlier. Wholesale prices on U.S.-made By KRISTI ELLIS higher than a year earlier. The only cotton prices abated in October, as U.S.- dresses rose 0.2 percent in the month weakness was in department store made apparel prices fell for the month, and 0.7 percent for the year. WASHINGTON — Consumers pulled sales, which were down 0.2 percent although there were still some signs of “Inflation pressures are easing as com- back on spending on apparel and acces- year-over-year. inflation year-over-year. modity prices have fallen,” said Nigel sories in October, as sales at specialty and “It’s sort of like defining the law of Prices on domestically produced Gault, chief U.S. economist at IHS Global department stores fell, a U.S. Commerce gravity, because the consumer is spend- apparel dipped 0.4 percent in October Insight. “That’s good news for manufac- Department report said Tuesday. ing money and showing signs of keeping compared with September, but were up turers who aren’t seeing the same sort of Sales at clothing and accessories the economy going, despite the fact that 3.9 percent over October 2010, the U.S. cost pressures as earlier in the year.” stores dipped a seasonally adjusted 0.7 the housing market is still weaker than Labor Department’s Producer Price The PPI for apparel is not con- percent to $19.1 billion in October com- a year ago, wages are weak and there Index showed Tuesday. sidered a key indicator, since a vast pared with September, while sales at has been very little income growth,” In the overall economy, wholesale department stores declined 1.2 percent Regan said. prices fell 0.3 percent in October, driv- to $15.3 billion last month. General mer- In the overall economy, retail sales en largely by declining gasoline prices. chandise stores, which include discount- edged up 0.5 percent in October to The core PPI index, excluding volatile ers and department stores, had a flat $397.7 billion, beating economists’ ex- food and energy costs, was flat. month with sales holding at $53.1 billion. pectations and signaling some strength Men’s apparel prices fell 1.3 percent “Apparel specialty stores have been in broader consumer spending, particu- last month, but were still 7.2 percent 7.2% growing quite strongly, and a pullback in larly in the electronics and appliances, higher than October 2010. Prices for INCREASE IN MEN’S APPAREL PRICES one particular month is not overly con- building supply and online sectors. U.S.-made women’s apparel were flat COMPARED WITH OCTOBER 2010. cerning,” said Scott Hoyt, senior direc- “Even though the American con- in October compared with September tor of consumer economics at Moody’s sumer faces strong headwinds — low and were 1.3 percent higher than a Analytics. “Department stores have been consumer confidence, high unemploy- year earlier. majority of goods are imported. The trending flat, and the flatness in gener- ment rates, higher prices and poor wage In men’s, wholesale prices on work Consumer Price Index, released al merchandise sales suggests there is growth — they are still willing to splurge shirts dropped 9.2 percent in the Wednesday, is a more important gauge, pretty good growth at warehouse clubs on that one expensive item every once month and 0.8 percent for the year, since it includes all goods sold at retail. and supercenters, which offset the de- in a while,” said Chris G. Christopher while prices on jeans fell 3.4 percent Further down the pipeline, prices cline in department store sales.” Jr., senior principal economist at IHS in October compared with September, on U.S.-made finished fabrics and knits October is traditionally a clearance Global Insight. but were 1.8 percent higher than a were still showing signs of inflationary month as retailers gear up for the holi- Christopher attributed the strength year earlier. Prices on U.S.-made pressure. Wholesale prices on finished day season, said Kevin Regan, senior in overall retail sales in part to the work clothing fell 1.8 percent last fabrics rose 0.6 percent in October and managing director of FTI Consulting. release of Apple’s iPhone 4S, which month, but were 3.9 percent above a were 8.6 percent higher than October “I think retailers took the position helped drive up sales at electronics year earlier and prices on underwear 2010, while prices on knits rose 1.1 per- that October is not a critical month any- stores by 3.7 percent in October. But, he and nightwear declined 2.9 percent cent last month and were 14.6 percent way,” Regan said. “It is usually a clear- warned it was not necessarily a boost in in October, but were 5 percent higher above a year earlier. Wholesale prices ance month for retailers who are pre- overall consumer demand. than a year earlier. on U.S.-made yarns fell 2 percent in paring for the holiday season, but the “Department and clothing stores took In women’s, wholesale prices on tai- October but were still 15.9 percent numbers are still holding up.” a major hit in October, indicating that lored jackets and vests fell 1 percent above a year earlier, while prices on On a year-over-year basis, apparel demand for a particular set of products, in October, but were 5.9 percent high- U.S.-made gray fabrics fell 0.9 percent and accessories stores sales were up rather than an improvement in overall er than October 2010, while prices on in October but were 16.8 percent higher 5.8 percent last month compared with consumer demand, is driving the in- swimwear fell 0.3 percent in October than a year earlier. October 2010, while sales at general crease in retail sales,” Christopher said. but were 2.6 percent higher than a year — K.E.

TJX Profit Up in Third Quarter

BETTER SALES LED off-price giant ship fresh gift assortments continuous- The TJX Cos. Inc. to a 9.2 percent rise ly throughout the season; we are ready in third-quarter profit. with great gift initiatives [and] our mar- Net income increased to $406.5 keting campaigns will be seen by more million, or $1.06 a diluted share, from people than ever before.” ALWAYS $372.3 million, or 92 cents, a year earli- For the full year, TJX expects adjust- Our Inspirational and er. Earnings per share met Wall Street’s ed earnings per share of $3.93 to $3.97, expectations. narrowing the range from its previous Compassionate Partner Sales for the three months ended guidance, which projected profits of Oct. 29 rose 4.8 percent to $5.79 billion $3.89 to $3.97. from $5.53 billion with a 3 percent rise “We believe the off-price business in comparable-store sales. model has proved to be quite resilient “Although it’s still early, November and expect continued market share We Celebrate is off to a strong start,” said Carol gains over the years,” said Randal Konik, Meyrowitz, chief executive officer. analyst at Jefferies. “Further, TJX’s ag- Your Life Meyrowitz said the company was gressive advertising strategy heading bullish about the fourth quarter, in into holiday is expected to drive traffic Your Love part, because “our inventory position gains and shows the company remains allows us to buy into current trends and on the offensive.” — EVAN CLARK Your Leadership Your Vision Your Friendship Benetton Net Drops 33 Percent

MILAN — Italy’s Benetton Group SpA kets continues in an encouraging way,” said net profit for the third quarter the company said, citing “excellent re- dropped 33 percent to 31 million euros, sults” in Mexico, India and Russia dur- EVELYN LAUDER or $44 million, from 46 million euros, or ing the first nine months of the year. $59.3 million in the year-ago period, as Dollar amounts have been converted at 1936–2011 high raw material costs and a decrease average exchange rates for the periods to in revenues impacted the bottom line. which they refer. The group’s chief executive officer for The company said that, while pres- operations, Biagio Chiarolanza, said the sure on raw material costs has eased

§ company faces a “very critical” situation in the last few months, prices remain in its main reference markets. Operating “well above the historic average and profit for 2011 “will be in line with fore- will therefore continue to impact on casts, lower than in the last financial margins in coming quarters.” year,” he noted. Chiarolanza noted that the fourth Revenues in the three months ended quarter started “in an environment Sept. 30 fell 5.1 percent to 575 million of growing uncertainty in established euros, or $816.5 million, compared with markets, which are the countries of 606 million euros, or $781.74 million, a greatest importance in our portfolio. year earlier, as sales in the company’s Margins remain under pressure, and traditional markets of Western Europe robust control of costs is a priority in contracted, and after “rationalization of order to defend profitability, in line the stores network” in the U.S. and Japan. with what has been done in recent However, “development of new mar- years.” — GORDON SORLINI WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 9 WWD.COM Presidential Pool Stirs Tax Debate

Mitt Romney Cain’s that include a national sales tax, he said. By KRISTI ELLIS “We believe that would actually reduce con- sumer spending and would be harmful at the WASHINGTON — Reforming the U.S. tax sys- retail level,” Hughes said. “We think a national tem has become a key topic of the 2012 presi- sales tax is anathema to growth in retail sales.” dential race, and some proposals could have As for Cain’s proposal specifically, Hughes major implications for retail investment and said 45 states currently collect sales tax, hiring, as well as consumer spending. ranging from 6 to 10 percent, and a 9 percent On Capitol Hill, lawmakers are consider- federal tax on top of that would cause “peo- ing several proposals aimed at easing the bur- ple to buy less and retailers to sell less.” den on businesses and families while avoid- “We don’t like it,” Hughes said. ing adding to the nation’s staggering debt. As for Romney’s support of extending the The National Retail Federation and Retail Bush tax cuts, Hughes said on the face of it, Industry Leaders Association welcomed a it would give more people more disposable plan last month by House Ways & Means income, but a concern is finding an offset so Chairman Dave Camp (R., Mich.) that would as not to increase the national debt. lower the top corporate tax rate to 25 percent Rachelle Bernstein, vice president and from 35 percent and eliminate certain tax de- tax counsel at the NRF, said the organiza- ductions and credits. tion is opposed to consumption taxes but has Wal-Mart Store Inc.’s president and chief not taken a position on any of the GOP candi- executive officer Mike Duke, testifying before dates’ proposals. the Senate Finance Committee in July, pressed A PricewaterhouseCoopers study for the Congress for a reduction in the corporate tax NRF in 2000 concluded that a flat tax as re- rate from 35 percent to the “mid-20s.” He said Herman Cain Rick Perry placement for the income tax would lead to Wal-Mart paid $4.7 billion in corporate taxes in a decline in consumer spending for six years the U.S. last year, a 32.2 percent effective cor- after enactment and a decline in gross do- porate tax rate, representing about one-third mestic product for six years. Similarly, a flat of all corporate income taxes the Treasury national sales tax as replacement for income Department collected. taxes would lead to a decline in consumer “We’re not here to ask for sympathy,” Duke spending for eight years after enactment and told the senators. “The question is not wheth- a decline in GDP for three years. er Wal-Mart as a company can get by under “NRF is opposed to consumption taxes the current tax structure. The real question because it will be such a big burden on con- is whether this structure is the best approach sumer spending,” Bernstein said. “We have for our country. We believe it is not.” done studies on replacing the income tax To varying degrees, the tax reform propos- with a consumption tax, and they showed that als advanced by the GOP presidential candi- depending on the type of the tax, consumer dates address the issue and call for reducing spending would decline six to eight years.” the corporate tax burden on companies. John Lonski, chief economist at Moody’s While President Obama has not made a for- Capital Markets Group, said a flat income tax mal proposal to overhaul the current tax sys- rate, such as the one proposed by Perry, could tem, he has focused on more short-term tax re- help spur spending by the middle-income lief for businesses and individuals and families. and upper-income consumers over time, but As part of his job plan unveiled in September, he warned the inherent risk in depriving the Obama proposed several tax cuts, including government of revenue and a deeper expan- a tax break of up to $4,000 for employers who sion of the nation’s debt could lead to further hire workers unemployed for more than six turmoil in the financial markets. months, a payroll tax cut for employers on the “[Perry’s plan] would help luxury retailers, first $5 million in wages, a temporary elimina- President Obama and the hope would be that, given the depen- tion of the 6.2 percent tax that firms pay for any dency of job creation on smaller businesses growth in payroll up to $50 million above the with fewer than 50 employees, which account prior year and a tax break that will allow com- for 45 percent of private sector jobs, cutting panies to immediately deduct the full value of the marginal tax rate significantly would also new equipment and plants in 2012. cut the tax rate of small businesses…and pro- The president said he would pay for his vide a boost in hiring activity,” Lonski said. plan in part by allowing tax cuts implement- Many small businesses pay taxes at the ed by former President George W. Bush for rate approximated by the highest marginal high-income wage earners making more than tax rate on personal income. $250,000 a year to expire in 2012. “The Cain proposal would provide a At the center of the debate among major boost in spending by the middle- and Republican presidential hopefuls is the flat upper-income households [because it would tax — a perennial conservative favorite — and lower the individual tax rate from a high of the proposals contain a variety of ideas, ranging 35 percent to 9 percent],” said Lonski. “The from a flat individual income tax to a national increase in after-tax income would offset sales tax. Retailers and economists are warily higher national sales taxes.” evaluating the potential impact of the proposals. But he warned that lower-end retailers Luxury retailers and brands — and high- like Wal-Mart could be negatively impacted, income earners — stand to benefit from a flat as opposed to high-end brands and retail- income tax that would lower the highest mar- ers such as Coach or Nordstrom, because ginal personal income tax rate from its current the savings derived from a lower income 35 percent, but discounters and low-income tax might not help lower-income consumers, earners would likely be hurt if a national sales who would then be faced with paying more tax was enacted, according to some economists for consumer goods. and industry experts. Many feel a sales tax Andrew Fitzpatrick, director of investments puts a greater burden on low- and middle-in- at Hinsdale Associations, said he believes re- come earners, since people need to purchase tailers and businesses will “warm up” to some basic needs regardless of what they earn. of the proposals, which “could spark an im- The economic plan of presidential candidate provement in their climate, and that could Rick Perry, governor of Texas, calls for individu- lead to a good environment for retailers.” als to have an option of staying within the cur- He said the Perry plan will help all retail- GETTY IMAGES; PERRY BY RICHARD ELLIS/GETTY IMAGES; OBAMA BY SPENCER PLATT/GETTY IMAGES RICHARD ELLIS/GETTYSPENCER PLATT/GETTY GETTY IMAGES; OBAMA BY IMAGES; PERRY BY rent income tax structure or moving into a new DARREN MCCOLLESTER/GETTY TOM WILLIAMS/ROLL CALL/ IMAGES;ROMNEY PHOTO BY CAIN BY ers “because it puts more money into the hands flat-tax system that would cap the individual in- of consumers, and it is a plan that will be more come tax rate at 20 percent. Perry’s plan would cash-flow positive for consumers and lessen also reduce the corporate tax rate from 35 to 20 percent and has overtaken coverage of his tax proposal. The plan their tax burden.” eliminate taxes and dividends as well as capital gains taxes. would reduce the personal income tax to 9 percent and Fitzpatrick said the Cain plan would ultimately Former Massachusetts Gov. Mitt Romney, considered reduce the corporate tax rate to 9 percent but create a lower the tax base and tax payments and called it “tax the GOP’s current front-running candidate for presi- new federal sales tax of 9 percent that would be added friendly” overall. dent, has called for extending the tax cuts implemented to existing state and local sales taxes. “The component of a national sales tax is certainly under President George W. Bush, as well as lowering “We are in favor of closing loopholes and eliminat- something that is front and center, and there is probably the corporate tax rate to 25 percent. ing deductions to lower the overall corporate tax rate going to be a bit of a pullback in terms of spending and Perhaps the biggest eyebrow-raising plan causing to make more companies more competitive and allow the fear around actually incurring that,” he added. “But consternation in the fashion industry is the “9-9-9 plan” them to invest in growth and jobs,” said Bill Hughes, se- I think the initial reaction to it may be a little overblown proposed by Herman Cain, former ceo of Godfather’s nior vice president of government affairs at RILA. because when you do the math, ultimately the tax con- Pizza, whose candidacy has been besieged by recent al- But the organization, which represents a large swath sequences will be beneficial compared to where we are legations Cain sexually harassed several women, which of the mass-merchant sector, is opposed to plans such as now. That could bode well for luxury retailers.” 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

VICTORIA BECKHAM WHEN VICTORIA Beckham launched her ready-to-wear collection in 2008, she knew what industry people were think- ing. A Spice Girl-turned-soccer wife had dared to put herself in the same sentence as designer? “I’m very aware of people’s preconceptions,” said Beckham in a question-and-answer session with execu- tive editor Bridget Foley Monday night at WWD’s Apparel and Retail CEO Summit. “But the product spoke for itself.” She went ahead with her vision of em- powering women with flattering, sophis- ticated and luxuriously made clothes, all done with the sage advice of a well-sea- soned friend in mind. “When I was start- ing out I remember Marc Jacobs saying, ‘As long as the quality is great, then peo- ple can say it’s not their personal taste, but they can’t say that it’s rubbish,’” said Beckham. “And that’s very true.” Eight seasons in, no one is rolling their eyes at Victoria Beckham. The collection has expanded into handbags, eyewear and a more affordable line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham, that hits retail for spring. “In the first collection we pro- duced 400 dresses and we had nine retail partners internationally, and now we’re producing about 500 pieces with all cate- gories in just over 300 stores worldwide,” said Beckham. “Though I’m trying to take baby steps, the business is growing very quickly. Our turnover year-over-year has increased over 120 percent. I think to any- one’s standards that’s very impressive.” Even before she was Posh Spice, Beckham wanted to be in fashion. In 2005 she formed a branding partnership with David Beckham, her husband, and Simon Fuller, the British music WWD 2011 CEO SUMMIT mogul who created the “Pop Idol” and “American Idol” franchises, and owns XIX Entertainment. When the trio was given the oppor- BRAND tunity to launch dVb, a denim and sunglasses line, under a license in EVERYWHERE 2006, “I jumped at the chance,” said Beckham. “I just wanted to design. It was a great learning curve. I learned so much about how I like to do things, how I don’t like to do things, the pros and cons of having someone to answer to. And as soon as we could — myself and Simon and David — afford to bring everything in-house, I jumped at the chance to do ·· that. I could bring in the correct experts for each category and now it’s a dream come true. I have two partners who give me free rein to do pretty much what I want to do creatively. No one is breath- ing down my neck.” Read between the lines and it’s ob- vious that the licensing model was not ideal, but Beckham prefers not to rehash the downside of the deal. “I’m a very pos- itive person. For me the glass is always half full,” she said. “And though there were challenges in the beginning, we’re in a position now where everything is in- house.” That was made possible by the success of the Beckhams’ fragrances with I never try to follow a Coty — the only element of the Beckham brand that still operates on a license. In the name of quality and control trend or fashion; I just — Beckham professes to be a control freak — Victoria Beckham is produced do what feels right. in England, Victoria in Portugal, and the handbags are handmade in Italy. In — VICTORIA BECKHAM 2009, the jeans and sunglasses were re- launched under the Victoria Beckham Denim and Eyewear labels. The rtw collection started with an ultra- body-conscious aesthetic. Dresses were

whippet thin, structured and sold with a JOHN AQUINO ALL SUMMIT PHOTOS BY corset to maximize a flattering fit from all angles — something Beckham is hyper- do in-store events with my retail partners, no different than it is for a lot of women out tion, I called him and said, ‘Simon, I’m aware of after her many red-carpet mo- I love to meet my customers and get feed- there. It’s like juggling glass balls. I love it.” really nervous.’ And he said, ‘You have ments. The style has since evolved toward back — but I’m my customer.” ·· She stressed the importance of focus, nothing to be nervous about. Just enjoy voluminous looks, coats and, for spring, Beckham is also a married mother of yet when asked what her five-year plan yourself and have fun,’ which was great. sportier elements. “Now that I’ve been four — the most recent addition, Harper, is, she came up blank. “I have big dreams He never put any pressure on me. doing it a little bit longer I can take more was born in July and is the family’s first and high hopes but I don’t know what’s “I’m really getting the best of both risks, working with volume away from the girl. Beckham lives in Los Angeles and next.” In the short term, e-commerce is worlds with Simon being a fantastic, body, which is very different from where shows in New York, while her team is in a priority, with a site aimed to be up and genius businessman and a very good I started out,” said Beckham. “I never London. That’s a lot of coordination for running by mid-2012. The rest is in the friend,” said Beckham. “He’s really good try to follow a trend or fashion; I just do someone who does not need the money, so hands of her partners. “I trust Simon 100 about thinking outside the box, which is what feels right. Everything that I make, why bother? percent,” said Beckham. “I’ve known him important as well. You know, I’m proof from glasses to a handbag to a dress, is “There are quite a few video conferenc- since I was probably 18 and in the Spice that you don’t have to play by the rules something I would wear and carry myself. es at 5 a.m. with me in my dressing gown, Girls, and he’s always believed in me. all the time.” People ask who my customer is — I love to holding baby,” said Beckham. “For me it’s When I was about to show my own collec- — JESSICA IREDALE WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 11 WWD.COM

HAIDER ACKERMANN MICHAEL DART HAIDER ACKERMANN ISN’T gunning for a big red-carpet THE RULES OF retailing have changed dra- moment to rocket his career. In fact, when he had his first matically and merchants must understand what one with Tilda Swinton, he went on vacation as planned. drives today’s consumer if they hope to succeed. Unswerving as that may have been, the Colombian- To help companies navigate these unchart- born designer is not about to compromise his individu- ed waters, Michael Dart, principal and head alism or cash in on the celebrity quota. During a Q&A of private equity and strategy at Kurt Salmon with WWD’s executive editor Bridget Foley, Ackermann Associates, co-authored a book titled “The discussed his artistic approach to fashion. While the New Rules of Retail: Competing in the World’s Antwerp Fashion Academy of Fine Arts grad has not Marketplace” with Robin Lewis. The book de- ruled out developing a secondary label, and does like the tails three waves of retail, starting around 1850 idea of designing jewelry, he explained why he remains and running until today. From 1850 to 1950, most focused on developing his signature style, and how time of the U.S. population lived in rural communi- is the greatest luxury. ties and there were two dominant retail models: — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG the general merchandise or regional depart- ment store, and the catalogue. This was the Bridget Foley: You said just a few hours ago, “China, growth, height of the industrial revolution and the “era Twitter, expansion — we are talking also about fashion.” of producer power,” he said. However, it was Where’s the mystery? Where’s the romanticism? Where’s also a time when there was a large amount of the dream? How much stress do you find between the cre- unfulfilled consumer need because production ative process and the demands of business in an increas- could not keep up with demand. ing global and all-access world? From 1950 to around 1980, Dart added, the Haider Ackermann: It’s very difficult, because you have to climate was marked by enormous investment question yourself, how much you preserve of yourself in infrastructure, triggering explosive growth in and how much you give to the outside world. I’m going retail stores of all types. Retail was dominated through a very delicious time at the moment. People are by Sears Roebuck, Wal-Mart launched, and spe- getting so demanding, but you have to protect yourself. cialty retailers such as Gap entered the picture. Listening to Tory Burch this morning was very interest- With all these choices, it was the era of market- ing because it is very opposite of what I’m about — all ing power, he said, when brands realized they this Twitter, Internet, Facebook, I don’t have any of that. needed to not only produce goods, but also ad- Maybe I will change my way of thinking, but for the mo- vertise and market them in order to stand out ment I prefer to focus on the message I will send there. from the competition. The third wave, from 1980 to 2011, saw the B.F.: How do you channel that one message when you are advent of big-box retailers and the expansion not involved with social media, and unlike many of your and explosion of retailers of all types. New tech- peers, have not embraced the role of a quote-unquote ce- nology also had a vast impact on the business. lebrity designer? You shy away from that. Dart said this is the era of consumer power, H.A.: Sometimes it’s very difficult in this business, be- where “great product and marketing is the price cause as a designer you have the feeling you have to be of entry,” and to win, retailers need something a celebrity. It’s almost as though it is you coming before more. It’s also the era of retail saturation, with your work. Now all the rules are changing. It scares me a B.F.: You do have a special relationship with Tilda more than 42 square feet per capita in the U.S. lot, actually. Swinton. Would you talk about that for a minute? First of “The consumer has enormous choice,” he said. all, what do you think of her style? At the same time, the cost of producing mer- B.F.: You are one of the most sought-after designers. How H.A.: What I like about her is that when she’s doing some- chandise has decreased and there’s quicker do you describe your aesthetic and why do you think it thing, she stands behind it without worrying whether and easier access to product than ever before. has caught on? You are making the transition from al- people like it or not. Also, it’s very interesting when a Couple that with the “information overload” most an insider cult fashion favorite to much more main- lady wears something that is kind of ugly. At least it ques- that has swept through our society, and it’s easy stream, with a following. tions you. It’s not all about having beautiful breasts and H.A.: I’ve been very lucky to be protected by big persons red lipstick and a beautiful ass. In the Sixties, we had like Mr. Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour, and suddenly ev- Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren which were fantastic. erything took different proportions. And I think maturity Perhaps now the role of the woman should be moving for- and having the right kind of signature. People are just ward, and Tilda is helping that. Eight years ago, after my paying attention. second show, she contacted me, and we’ve collaborated for eight years now. B.F.: How do you describe your aesthetic? H.A.: In this world we are in now, it is very difficult to talk B.F.: Initially you wouldn’t change your plans for her, right? about beauty, because we talk about so many things. And H.A.: Absolutely not. Eight years ago, she asked me to there is so much violence out there. For me, I am just try- dress her for Cannes, and I had to make this evening ing to search for a kind of beauty or elegance that I might dress, and her agent and everyone called me, saying, believe in. How to describe it, I don’t know. I am trying to “Please, please, be there.” And I said, no, I’m going figure that out as well. to India. I have a trip with the person I love. I’m not going to change anything. I’m just going to go. So ev- B.F.: Your early work wasn’t as colorful as it is now, and eryone was kind of shocked, but I think she respected you have been likened to some of the greatest colorists the fact that I didn’t show up. You have to very much since Yves Saint Laurent. Where does the color come listen to yourself. Otherwise, you get absorbed by the from? What speaks to you about that right now? whole system. H.A.: I’m just happy more. It’s stupid but it’s true, so that to see how consumers have the upper hand. might help. When you’re a designer — it sounds rather B.F.: Speaking of the system, the fashion calendar, the “There’s a big shift from needing stuff to de- foolish and romantic — you just design who you are, what number of collections, the increasing interest in speed to manding experiences,” he said. you’re going through or what is happening in your life…. market because things are seen so quickly in real time — There are also moves from conformity to cus- It translates into your work. Perhaps when you’re in love what is the impact of that on the creative side? tomization, from plutocracy to democracy, from everything is more generous. H.A.: First, I do believe time is the new luxury, because new to new and now, and from self to commu- we don’t take the time, especially in fashion. You don’t nity, Dart said. B.F.: In the past there was an intimacy between designer ask a writer to write 10 books in one year. You don’t ask a This has resulted in three new rules govern- and actress, a faithfulness that is missing right now. Talk a filmmaker to make six films a year. It’s going to such ex- ing retail today. The first is “neurological connec- little bit about your take on that level between the celeb- tremes — you have a cruise collection, a pre-collection…. tivity,” he said, which means brands must reach rity and the fashion designer. How much can you squeeze from a person? It’s good to consumers through all five of their traditional H.A.: Nowadays everything seems so forced. In the past, you question ourselves. How much do we have to do? How senses as well as through their sixth sense — the had Mr. Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve or Audrey many collections? Are we not losing ourselves by acting mind. This requires retailers to create excite- Hepburn and Mr. Givenchy, everything came across natu- like this? Are we not losing ourselves by doing too much? ment and anticipation through such strategies as rally. I think this is the beauty of a relationship that you To do something beautiful, you have to spend time on it. flash sales and limited edition product. can build up with an actress. I think the volume that is When you see Mr. [Azzedine] Alaïa’s work, you can see he The second rule is preemptive distribution, going on with the red carpet is kind of a prostitution. You is spending time on it. We are rushing, we are running. Dart said, which means retailers must work to just throw the clothes to the people. I like to develop a re- How can you make a beautiful product if you don’t have reach customers first — before their competitors lationship. Certainly in America it’s very important that the time for it? — and in whatever way consumers desire. He used lots of actresses are wearing your clothes, and it helps your the example of Kohl’s trying to siphon off custom- sales. It doesn’t feel honest to me. If I haven’t met a person B.F.: Do you think the major brands that set the business ers by building a store between a community of before, if I don’t know what she’s about, if I don’t have any side of fashion have to almost give up something on the time-starved working moms and a J.C. Penney. connection to her, why should I do it? creative side to be so big, so vast and so powerful? The final rule of retail is the battle for the H.A.: Yes, in the big industry, they all think that every de- control of the value chain of design, sourcing, B.F.: Why do you think the importance of the red carpet signer is replaceable. That is simply not true. Some de- manufacturing, logistics and distribution. has exploded so much? signers have a soul. Dart said the practical implications of these H.A.: It has to do with the media. That’s all that counts at rules is that 50 percent of all brands in exis- the moment. Everybody is only looking at that. B.F.: That sounds like a window. Do you have any thoughts tence today will disappear, wholesale brands on any houses that might have an opening? will accelerate the opening of their own stores, B.F.: Do you have other specific inspirations, or do you H.A.: No. traditional retailers will increase their percent- have a muse? age of exclusive and private brands, department H.A.: I don’t believe in the word “muse.” I think every B.F.: What’s great about fashion? stores will roll out specialty chains and pop-up magazine is talking about muses. Muse used to be a silent H.A.: I love the idea that fashion can be a beautiful prod- stores will continue to make strides as a “strate- person, where the woman I am attracted to is very verbal. uct and that I still believe that fashion can make people gic weapon” for brands. I need that kind of exchange. dream. I like to think it’s my role to make people dream. — JEAN E. PALMIERI 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 WWD 2011 CEO SUMMIT

NORMA KAMALI AND PETER GUBER tomers to decide in the privacy of their own NORMA KAMALI IS a firm believer in the power of the Internet. homes and only pay for what they kept. Her BRAND In a conversation with Peter Guber, chairman and chief ex- staff offered support through vehicles like ecutive officer of Mandalay Entertainment Group, they spoke Skype. Kamali was also the first designer to EVERYWHERE about the power of storytelling, digital retailing and the future create a virtual online store on eBay. of fashion. Guber asked what was so compelling about “I believe the Internet is profound in its growth, its power digital media that allowed her to tell her story. and its future,” said Kamali. To this end, she will launch a new “This medium changes every day. And I’m a collection called Kamali Kulture exclusively on sites such change-aholic. I like to know what’s next. The fact that it’s as Zappos.com and Amazon.com in February with styles that changing all the time is exciting to me,” said Kamali. retail under $100. It will also be available on her own site, She said she recently did a 3-D fashion show for the spring KamaliKulture.com, that goes live in January. Kamali’s three- collection. “Social media is extraordinary. Wal-Mart didn’t do year deal with Wal-Mart has ended, which was both an in-store any advertising or promotion for the collection, but the blog- and Internet venture. gers put that line right at the top of the Wal-Mart brand list Innovation has always been a key component of Kamali’s fash- for clothing. They [bloggers] are so loyal and dedicated when ion philosophy, and she continues to move in new directions. they get behind something they believe in, and they tell it in a “Retail is not in a good place and needs to be rethought,” personal way,” said Kamali. said the forward-thinking Kamali, who first came up with the During the question-and-answer period, an audience mem- Sleeping Bag Coat, a collection created from actual para- ber asked Kamali if she still designs. “I love designing. I love MICHAEL MCNAMARA chutes, and has had countless innovations in swimwear and making patterns. I still make all my swimwear patterns, be- GREATER USE OF credit and less saving activewear. The designer said she is looking for new space in cause I love it. I really want to feel connected to the craft. I’ve by consumers might make for happy holi- Manhattan for a retail venture and may reconfigure her West chosen to be a designer not owned by a big company, so I can days for U.S. retailers this year, but the good 56th Street location. “I want to present a new idea and am do lots of different things. Keeping my hand on patterns and cheer isn’t likely to carry over into 2012. looking for spaces now,” said Kamali, noting that she wants draping is very important. It makes me feel every single col- Speaking at the WWD Summit Monday, to create an environment where people can experience some- lection is my first collection,” she said. Michael McNamara, vice president and thing and feel connected to her and her products. Without di- Prior to his Q&A with Kamali, Guber offered his thoughts global solutions leader of MasterCard vulging details, she asked: Why should women come into her on making emotional connections with an audience. In addi- Advisors, pointed out that retail sales have store, take off their clothes and try on swimwear in the middle tion to being a top entertainment executive, Guber is the au- continued to grow on a year-over-year of winter? “What is wrong with me? How can I ask a woman thor of the book, “Tell To Win: Connect, Persuade and Triumph basis, but that second-half results have to do that? I think there are alternate concepts for that retail with the Hidden Power of Story,” a New York Times bestseller. been marked by a deceleration. Including experience,” said Kamali. gasoline and groceries, October sales ex- Having designed high- panded about 5 percent, down from gains end clothing under her in the 8 percent range for most of the year. OMO line, Kamali ex- “How are people paying for retail plained why she wanted sales now?” he asked the audience. “A to design a collection at reduced savings rate and increasing the other end of the spec- consumer credit. You can live on that trum, for Wal-Mart, and for a little while, but that’s not sustain- what she learned from able over the long term.” that experience. What’s needed, he said, is meaning- “It was a great experi- ful improvement in payrolls, wages and ence, and I met incredible unemployment. Without these, “when suppliers,” said Kamali, I look at all the pieces of the economic who said she not only puzzle, it becomes harder and harder learned another language, to fit them together.” Retailers will also but how to manufacture face more formidable same-store sales styles that could look ex- comparisons next year, he pointed out. traordinary, fit well, last Apparel was one of several catego- and have a great price ries that has weakened late in the year, point. She explained that whereas groceries, electronics and hard- her Wal-Mart clothing line ware were trending upward and “eating was the retailer’s top on- away at other categories.” Luxury sales line clothing brand. She were off slightly in October, he said, with also liked the experience New York and other key markets affect- of addressing women on a ed, but had resumed a healthier pace so clothing budget and em- far this month. powering women. “I real- “As long as the stock market holds ly wanted that to be a part up, [there’s] no need to worry about gas of me and my company,” prices with this customer,” he said. said Kamali. He said it’s unlikely that gas prices In fact, that’s the ratio- during the remainder of the year will nale behind her new col- fall to $3.15 or below, the price at which lection. Kamali Kulture consumption would be likely to acceler- will include pants, jackets, ate among average consumers. suitings, jersey dressing, Pressed on how the political cli- sleepwear and swimwear. mate could affect performance at re- “Staying in this price tail, the MasterCard executive said point under $100 is really a very important place for me to be Before co-founding Mandalay, Guber was chairman and chief the Federal Reserve Board rarely in this point in my career,” said Kamali, who was dressed in executive officer of Sony Pictures Entertainment, as well as takes steps in an election year that are Kamali Kulture. “The online retailers have been very respon- chairman and ceo of Polygram Entertainment, co-founder of damaging to an incumbent president. sive. I want to personalize the orders to have exclusive prints Casablanca Records & Filmworks and president of Columbia However, he is keeping a wary eye on and colors.” Pictures. He has produced or executive-produced box office hits the Congressional Super Committee Guber asked Kamali whether she feels she’s cannibalizing such as “Rain Man,” “The Color Purple,” “Midnight Express,” scheduled to release its report on the her high-end business, and Kamali said she didn’t think so. She “Batman,” “Flashdance” and “The Kids Are All Right.” He also federal budget, debts and deficits on said her two lines aren’t similar. “The collection I do for my owns the Golden State Warriors NBA franchise. Nov. 23, the day before Thanksgiving company, OMO, is quite different. It’s more fashion, and what Guber believes strongly in the power of storytelling, and and just two days before so-called I do for under $100 is more timeless. Women who have style explained that when information is bonded with emotion, it Black Friday, expected again to be the can take pieces like this and have fun with them. Women who becomes much more memorable and actionable. He said that highest-volume day of the year. don’t know and don’t have a clue can put on the clothes and look the world has had 40,000 years of aural tradition, which is in “Whoever put those dates together ob- great.” Kamali said the rule of exclusively wearing one brand or one’s DNA. “The last nanosecond is digital technology. You’re viously didn’t know retail,” he quipped. one price range is over. “We like to be smart. And I, like other wired to tell each other stories. Engagement is crucial, and McNamara projected that, “as long women, like to say, ‘My outfit is under $100,’ ” she said. narrative gives meaning to our lives.” as the weather cooperates, Black Friday Kamali recalled where her fascination with computers For example, he spoke about the importance of being in this year should be the first $20 billion originated. After graduating from the Fashion Institute of the same room, face to face. “Nobody is going to hire someone day in this country,” with sales estimat- Technology, she wanted to be a painter because she thought over Skype unless they’re the village idiot….I want to see the ed to reach $20.3 billion. the fashion industry was too superficial. Recognizing it would passion in their eyes,” he said. He expects growth in e-commerce to be difficult to make a living as a painter, she looked for alter- Guber explained that it’s imperative to engage online and continue to outpace retail sales in gen- natives. She loved to travel and got an office job at an airline, off-line. He believes that one needs to motivate one’s audience eral, noting that a few years ago, online even though she didn’t know how to type. “It was the mid-Six- with a story. “You have to get their attention before you get sales exceeded $1 billion just three days ties, and there I was, sitting in front of a computer. That indus- their intention….Authenticity is powerful. It shines through. of the year, a number likely to climb to “at try was such an innovator in communication. I was watching It comes before you speak the first word. Why? You’re wired least” 10 in 2011. Overall retail sales for information pop up, I knew everything that was going on, with that way.” the season, spanning Nov. 1 to Dec. 24, are all the planes and all the trafficking, and I was very excited If you’re trying to sell something or get a new client, Guber expected to hit $657 billion, more than $41 about it. Then fast-forward into the mid-Nineties, I heard you advised: “Look at that person at the other side of the table as billion of that attributable to e-commerce. can have a Web site on the computer. I didn’t know anyone an audience, not a customer. Don’t aim at their wallet, aim at Additionally, he surprised many in who had one, but I was going to have one. I was so excited and their heart. Think of what audiences want. They want experi- the audience with his finding that 40 wanted to be a part of it. I wanted to communicate with my ences. You don’t have to be a comedian or a showman. You percent of holiday sales are made be- customer. I wanted to tell my story and tell it directly. I want- just have to be breathing.” Further, he said, connections are fore the Monday after Thanksgiving, ed my customer to know me and know why I had this point crucial for communication. “Nobody wants to be a passenger using it to put listeners on notice that of view,” she said. Kamali launched her Web site in 1996 and anymore. They want to participate in the process. Leave room “you really have to get it done before created a “Try Before You Buy Service,” which allowed cus- for them.” — LISA LOCKWOOD Halloween.” — ARNOLD J. KARR WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16 13 WWD.COM

RICHARD BAKER portfolio of properties” including the 650,000-square- WITH HIS DEPARTMENT stores on the upswing, foot Fifth Avenue flagship. Baker’s firm, then called

Richard Baker, chairman of the Hudson’s Bay Co., con- NRDC, bought L&T for just over $1 billion, and he was tinues to bet on the format. met with skeptics who said he was in it for the real es- “We have recently invested $3 million to open two tate and wouldn’t support the retail operations. new Lord & Taylor Home stores, a natural extension of Subsequently, Baker’s company took a 20 percent the Lord & Taylor brand,” Baker said at the summit. “If interest in Hudson’s Bay, again attracted by the real we get this right, we could have a $1 billion opportu- estate, particularly The Bay flagships in Toronto, nity” to roll out the format. Vancouver, Montreal, Calgary and Ottawa, that added Then there’s a $5 million investment to open the first hidden value to the company. “Public companies were Topshop store inside The Bay department store in the giving very little credit to the real estate that retail- Yorkdale section of Toronto as the exclusive franchisee ers owned,” he said. Subsequently, the balance of the in the country. “If it doesn’t work, we lose $5 million. If $7 billion, 650-unit Hudson’s Bay was purchased and it does work, we are on our way to building a $300 mil- later shrewdly paid off through the sale of 188 leases of lion business and·· driving new customers to The Bay.” Zellers, a former division of Hudson’s, for $1.8 billion to With one permanent Topshop open as well as three Target Corp., or 18 times the EBITDA of Zellers. Topshop pop-ups in other Bay stores, additional units “I’ll be the first to admit that before we bought Lord are contemplated for other locations, which generally & Taylor, I had no understanding of the customers’ at- have too much space and need to increase productivity. tachment to the brand. The same goes for The Bay,” To that end, Baker noted that more than $300 million Baker said. has been invested in store renovations at The Bay and But as the weeks went by, “I was accosted in the Lord & Taylor divisions. “We plan on spending another stores by cultlike customers. They needed Lord & $500 million over the next three years,” Baker disclosed. Taylor — whatever it was, our unique location in their “Business has never been stronger,” he said. “Over town, a trusted sales associate, shoes, special sizes, an the past two years, Lord & Taylor sales are up over 20 experience they had shopping with their mother 20 percent and at The Bay, after 20 consecutive years of years earlier. They explained to me in great detail what negative comps, we are trending this season at a posi- they liked and what they didn’t. I kept thinking why are they shopping with us if they have so many issues. And then I understood. As long as we were trying and mak- ing progress, they would stick with us. That is the magic If you don’t have a good instinct of a strong brand. Customers stick with you through ups and downs if they have brand affection.…Now I am for what will work and be more concerned with protecting the Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay brands than anything else we do. Both of profitable, you will run out of these brands are rich in history, culture, tradition and, most importantly, customer affinity.” His investment strategy for department stores was money very quickly. guided by a three-point philosophy: the value of real es- — RICHARD BAKER, HUDSON’S BAY CO. tate in retail, the importance of a brand and taking risks and being willing to fail. “If you never fail, you are not pushing the envelope hard enough. Real estate develop- tive comp of 10 percent. Our overall EBITDA [earnings ers have a highly tuned sense for risk versus reward.” before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization] Aside from L&T and Hudson’s Bay, Baker’s firm did has risen from $165 million to $500 million.” invest in Linens-N-Things and Fortunoff, both of which The Lord & Taylor Home stores, in Paramus and were liquidated. Shrewsbury, N.J., sell upscale kitchen, bedding and “If you don’t have a good instinct for what will bath products and are being merchandised by Home work and be profitable, you will run out of money very Outfitters, which operates in Canada and is another di- quickly,” Baker said. “Real estate developers are ac- that was supposed to be the end of brick-and-mortar. vision of the Toronto-based Hudson’s Bay Trading Co. customed to risking small amounts of money to make But what the pundits always seem to forget is that it’s A year ago, the Lord & Taylor flagship in Manhattan very large returns. At the company, we talk about being really all about entertainment. It’s really about an ex- reconfigured its ninth floor into a home department fearless. Fearless does not mean taking crazy risks. perience. People want to get out of their houses and be with offerings from Calvin Klein, Ralph·· Lauren and Fearless means having the courage to look at things entertained. Department stores are about entertaining Jonathan Adler, among other brands. differently. It’s this type of thinking that we are convey- our customers with a wide array of products, services, Baker, a real estate developer wearing a new hat as a ing to our team at all levels.…The trick is to fail small brand experience and, yes, a great deal.” retailer, took his first big bet on department stores in 2005 and win big.” Department stores, Baker added, are not as vulner- when he “saw the world changing and a huge opportunity to He’s become a believer in department stores, which able to fashion risk as vertical retailers. “The large buy some large retailers that owned their own real estate.” still have their fair share of detractors. “When the VCR swings in sales at vertical retailers don’t occur in de- He was attracted to Lord & Taylor as a “dusty, old was invented, that was supposed to be the end of mov- partment stores.” brand” that could be improved and had a “fabulous ies theaters. When online shopping was introduced, — DAVID MOIN

PETER WILLIAMS foot store in Salcombe, Devon, a town young adults frequenting those areas. PETER WILLIAMS FEELS old. But that similar to Nantucket, Mass., and opened “It’s where they go on vacation or go to doesn’t stop the founder and chief execu- the doors. They lived in an apartment school,” he said. And when they see the tive officer of Jack Wills from having a above the store “in squalor, sleeping cool, preppie, British-style pieces, such laser focus on his target customer: an 18- among mountains of unsold stock.” as redingotes, tweeds and tailcoats, it is to 21-year-old student. But from Day One, Williams had a vi- “completely relevant” to their lives. “We The British lifestyle brand that sion of what the brand should be and who mix heritage and contemporary all styled Williams launched in 1999 creates “fabu- its target customer was. In Salcombe, he together as an authentic British look.” lously British goods for the university sought out the “opinion-makers,” such as In order to maintain its authenticity, crowd.” According to the brand’s Web the guys working on the ferry boats and Jack Wills has been working with his- site, Jack Wills takes its “influence from the bartenders in town and cajoled them toric British mills and manufacturers, Britain’s rich history and culture, juxta- to wear Jack Wills. “That’s now called whose “archives are priceless,” he said, posed with a heavy dose of the hedonistic viral marketing,” Williams said. even as Britain’s manufacturing base has college lifestyle. We create authentic and The strategy worked and the young almost disappeared. relevant clothing for today. Jack Wills is all kids soon embraced this cool new brand, Social media has also played a role in about excess, adventure and sexiness — allowing Jack Wills to expand its reach, the success of Jack Wills. “We’ve always and we don’t just say this stuff, we live it.” to the point that the company now oper- been multichannel from Day One,” he Williams said that when he graduated ates 54 stores around the world, includ- said, and the company uses the Web to from college, where he had perfected ing 11 in the U.S., and sales this year are “have a conversation” with its custom- playing rugby and drinking beer, he was expected to exceed $200 million. ers. But he cautioned other companies faced with three choices: continue his “We’ve been hyper-selective in our to fully integrate their Web strategies education and become an academic, store locations,” he said, “so we’re only into their business model so they appear launch a career as a professional rugby consumed by our target audience,” who “seamless. Otherwise, it will be seen as a player or “get a job.” Realizing he was frequent bars and chalets in the winter fraud by the younger customer.” He also neither the professorial type nor rugby’s and beaches in the summer. As a result, said brands need to stop just talking at answer to David Beckham, he opted to Williams sought a foothold in seasonal their target audiences and instead work enter the workforce. resorts or university towns, seeking out to create two-way relationships since He joined a consulting firm working historic buildings that helped provide they’re much more lasting. with brands such as Nike and Virgin, “authenticity” for the brand. In answer to a question from the audi- and found he was “totally fascinated by The result was Jack Wills, “an authen- “We’re brand obsessives,” he said, ence, Williams said that for Jack Wills to brands on an intellectual level,” particu- tic British brand” that he believed could noting that the U.S. locations include continue its relationship after its custom- larly those at a premium price point. He establish “a global footprint.” Then, as “grand town houses” in Boston and ers turn 21, the company created Aubin soon realized he wasn’t cut out to work for today, the world has a “great appetite for Philadelphia, as well as locations in sea- & Wills to address “the next lifestage be- someone else and decided to branch out all things British,” he said, as evidenced side towns such as Martha’s Vineyard yond Jack Wills.” This allows customers on his own. He was 23 years old and to- by the royal wedding in April, which was and Nantucket. “We won’t open mar- to “grow up with the brand. Customer ac- gether with a college friend, Robert Shaw, watched by as much as 30 percent of the ket stores,” he said. “Our philosophy is quisition is expensive” and after having a he set out to create a clothing brand that world’s population. that every store should add value to the relationship for several years, it makes no embodied the spirit of an 18- to 21-year- Hoping to capitalize on this appetite, brand, not chip away at it.” sense to let those customers go elsewhere. old, with all the naïvety and sexual energy Williams and Shaw scraped together These authentic locations also So Aubin & Wills is the natural extension. that defines that demographic. some money and opened a 160-square- serve to create relationships with the — JEAN E. PALMIERI

14 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

REMO RUFFINI WITH MONCLER NEARING its 60th ment, reorganization of distri- WWD 2011 CEO SUMMIT anniversary next year, chairman bution, amped-up sales, taking Remo Ruffini has a global growth plan on a more global approach that is forward-thinking yet respects and finding the time for staff- BRAND the brand’s heritage. ers to enjoy the ride, Ruffini That combo appears to be working, said. The aim was and re- EVERYWHERE considering last year’s sales topped mains to create outerwear that $522 million, compared·· to $408.6 mil- appeals to a variety of different lion in 2008. After showing a corpo- lifestyles from outdoor enthusiasts rate video that encompassed images of like skateboarders and snowboard- the brand’s earlier jackets as well as ers as well as businessmen. To that end, Bruce Weber’s far more recent short Moncler broadened its reach beyond film, “Steal This Jacket,” Ruffini em- major sporting goods stores to include phasized how now more than ever it major department stores and specialty is essential to stay tuned to the people stores. “A good product without good de- who buy the brand’s outerwear, wher- sign is like a kite without a wing,” Ruffini ever they live. said. “We also pick beautiful locations to In reference to his predecessors at stay tuned to your people.” Moncler, Ruffini said, “I have stood on Moncler is currently carried in 34 the shoulders of giants. I am working countries in the world, with retail ac- A good product without good design is like a kite without a wing. — REMO RUFFINI, MONCLER

to bring economic growth, the creative counting for about 50 percent of the process and the brand’s image all to- company’s overall volume. The out- gether. If you strip the brand bare, erwear company opened its first free- under so many layers and functions, standing store only five years ago. The what remains is beauty. I believe fact that there are boutiques in ski re- there is no present or future without sorts like Chamonix and on Paris’ Rue the past.” du Faubourg Saint-Honoré illustrates Decades ago, Moncler’s “strong, the brand’s wide-ranging approach. safe and highly protective cloth- Ruffini described China as “a market ing” was used to suit up climbers at for everybody,” and Moncler·· has four Mount McKinley in Alaska, as well stores there. as France’s Olympic ski team at the As examples of how Moncler aims 1968 Winter Games in Grenoble. to evolve as a brand, Ruffini men- Developing what it claims was the tioned the company’s previous col- first waterproof down jacket proved laboration with Pharrell Williams and to be a turning point for the compa- the development of a down jacket that ny, Ruffini said. In the Seventies, the weighed in at 200 grams. There also brand built on its growing popularity are the Gamma Rouge, Gamma Bleu by courting young European trendset- and Moncler Grenoble collections for ters. But by the Eighties, there was the women and men that are very high need for restyling and the brand was fashion and hold runway shows during FEDERICO MARCHETTI redesigned, and in the Nineties, ex- fashion weeks. “Being contemporary FEDERICO MARCHETTI, founder and since the first-mover advantage in China ecutives took more of a back to basics means being able to see the original chief executive officer of Yoox Group, is is important. approach. “We were not exactly on top idea in the product,” Ruffini said. “I “obsessed” with making the global e-com- ·· “Be patient, you cannot think to make of the mountain,” he admitted. want Moncler products to be contem- merce player a local force. billions [in China] the first year,” he said. There was further tweaking around porary with top quality. Most of all I “To be global in this industry is not an “It’s the only country in the world where 2003, when Ruffini bought the brand, want them to survive fashion.” easy job,” Marchetti said. “To do it prop- Google is tiny.…For the next couple of with concentration on product develop- — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG erly, you really need to do it locally.” years, we’re going to focus on China be- That belief has guided Yoox’s expansion cause we want to do that very well.” in China, a market the company decided to But China isn’t the only frontier for the tackle after raising 104.5 million euros, or company, which is on track to post sales about $158 million, in its December 2009 of $400 million this year, has 31 e-com- initial public offering in Milan. merce sites and about 500 employees. The following year, Yoox tapped native “We see a tremendous growth with the talent to set up an office in Shanghai and mobile commerce, especially with the switched on Emporio Armani’s online iPad,” Marchetti said. “Around 10 per- flagship for the coun- cent of traffic is com- try. This year, a Dolce ing from mobile com- & Gabbana site was merce, a little bit less added along with a To be global in this in terms of sales.” Chinese version of the Instead of one over- company’s multibrand arching mobile strat- site, thecorner.com. industry is not an egy, the company lets The visual presen- its individual business tation of the brands easy job. To do it units build their own is crafted by Chinese mobile skills. photographers and properly, you really Despite all of the other local specialists. changes at the compa- Marchetti said the ny, Marchetti is proud company invests in the need to do it locally. of how well the Yoox. country to establish — FEDERICO MARCHETTI, com off-price site has credibility. Prices on stood the test of time. the firm’s monobrand YOOX GROUP “The positioning of Web sites, which are Yoox.com is not one of listed in the local cur- a discounter,” he said. rency, match the prices in the brands’ “I didn’t want to launch 12 years ago as a physical stores. discounter because every time you make Shipments to the firm’s customers in a statement on price it can be dangerous. China arrive in a bag with a bow — pack- It’s very short term. And I wanted Yoox. aging designed especially for the mar- com to be innovative and I still think, you ket. And Yoox provides “butler service,” may like it or not like it, but there are not where the delivery person will wait for so many other Web sites like Yoox.com the customer to try on their order and see around, mixing fashion with design [at a] if they want to keep it or return it. price, with vintage, with exclusives…with The company gets orders not just from very high-quality projects. It’s still very Beijing and Shanghai, but from the coast- innovative·· after 12 years and something al cities and secondary markets. that after 12 years doesn’t age on the Marchetti said the company is lay- Internet, I think it’s a great result.” ing important groundwork for the future — EVAN CLARK WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 15 WWD.COM

HOWARD TUBIN A POINT OF DIFFERENTIATION and where in the growth cycle the firm is are two areas of consideration before Howard Tubin makes that critical decision to issue a “buy” recommendation on a company’s stock. Tubin, director in the equity research depart- ment of RBC Capital Markets who covers the soft- lines sector, told attendees that uniqueness, or a point of differentiation, gets his attention. What Tubin wants to know is, “Do the product of- ferings stand out from the crowd?”

It’s the singular most important criterion. To be sure, quality of the management team is a consid- eration. And so too is the firm’s balance sheet. Also very high on that list, he said, is “where in the growth cycle” does the company under consideration fall? If it’s in that early stage, then you have a growth stock.

Among the names on Tubin’s list of standouts are Lululemon Athletica Inc., Limited Brands Inc., PVH Corp., The TJX Cos. Inc. and Ralph Lauren Corp. That’s because these firms are “meaningful to the crowd.” Those representing firms whose uniqueness seem to have lost·· their edge in- clude Gap Inc., The Talbots Inc. and Coldwater Creek Inc. Tubin also said he doesn’t subscribe to the view that retail- ers in the lower-tier distribu- tion channel are more risky. He pointed to Dollar General Corp. as an example. “Dollar General is doing well because of the brands they offer, not the tier [of distribution] they’re in,” Tubin said.

Dollar General is doing well Looking for because of the financing? brands they offer, not the tier Let’s talk.

[of distribution] We have been a CIT client for they’re in. seven years. When we needed a — HOWARD TUBIN, lender to support our company’s RBC CAPITAL MARKETS growth it was natural for us to look to CIT. They understand our In the question-and-answer session, Tubin noted how some business and they understand companies are starting to look overseas for expansion, even retail. CIT is the market leader.” if, like the Gap, they don’t have SEAN COMBS, FOUNDER stellar performance in the U.S. JEFFREY TWEEDY, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT He also was lukewarm about SEAN JOHN J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s planned every-day low-price strategy. While the move could help drive comparable-store·· sales, the analyst said it’s a strategy that would be “tough to wean Sean “Diddy” Combs is a fashion icon customers off.” and founder of the company that bears When asked about some of his name. With the support of CIT, the the younger companies that Sean John brand grew into one of the offer a creative spark, Tubin most dominant sportswear brands in cited Francesca’s Holding America. CIT’s financing has allowed the Corp., which went public ear- company to grow both domestically and lier this year. Mentioning its internationally while having the flexibility small footprint of only 300 stores, Tubin said Francesca’s to seize opportunities in the marketplace is unique and it doesn’t operate as they arise. “cookie-cutter stores.” Want to talk about how CIT Commercial As for last year’s takeover Services can provide financing for your candidates, American Eagle business? Visit us at cit.com or call Outfitters Inc. and Aéropostale 800-248-3240. Inc., teen retailer Aéropostale got the value component of the equation right, but missed on its merchandise mix. American Eagle has done a better job on its merchandise strategy. Both are essentially turnaround sto- Credit Protection ■ Working Capital ries. Both are also takeover tar- Factoring ■ Import/Export Financing gets from a valuation point of Debt Restructuring ■ Growth Financing view, but with little or no debt and cash on the balance sheets, Tubin concluded: “I don’t sus- © 2011 CIT Group Inc. CIT and the CIT logo are registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. pect either one would fold.” — VICKI M. YOUNG 16 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

TOM MURRY volved. We’ll even dictate what the bartenders and ser- THIS YEAR THE Calvin Klein brand will generate over vice waiters will wear and the type of trays they carry $7 billion in retail sales in over 100 countries. Through and glassware they use.” its over $300 million in advertising spending and over While some might consider such measures obsessive, $400 million worth of equivalent editorial, it is one of this attention to detail has burnished the Calvin Klein the most dominant designer brands in the world. image globally and helped create a powerful foundation “Certainly at Calvin Klein we aspire to the idea of to grow the licensed businesses, said Murry. ‘Brand Everywhere,’” said Tom Murry, president of While advertising and marketing are centralized in Calvin Klein Inc., which is owned by PVH Corp., directly New York, the company tailors advertising to local mar- addressing the theme of this year’s summit. However, kets and varying standards of taste — even within the even within its biggest accounts, such as Macy’s, Calvin U.S. “Every time we shoot a campaign, we shoot multi- Klein is far from ubiquitous and is just one of many ple versions of it in order to handle censorship issues,” powerful brands vying for consumer attention. said Murry. “We could run one campaign in New York “That’s actually a good thing,” said Murry. “From my City and another campaign in North Carolina.” perspective, and I imagine from yours as well, there Despite the economic malaise in the U.S. and else- certainly are better measures of success than ubiquity. where following the 2008 recession, Klein has continued to Innovation, quality, consistency and discipline: these invest heavily in advertising and marketing, allowing the are just as important, if not more important, to a brand’s brand to take market share from more cautious competi- long-term success.” tors. Murry pointed to a McGraw–Hill Research study of While potent branding has been crucial to Calvin 600 businesses during the recession of 1981-1982 that found Klein’s robust recent growth — that $7 billion figure is up sales of advertisers that maintained or increased from $2.8 billion in 2003 — product is always the primary spending had risen 256 percent within three driver of sales, emphasized Murry. “Never get arrogant years over those that cut back on advertising. about the strength of your brand,” he explained. “Even While Calvin Klein is known for its icon- with the profound strength of our brand, if we don’t get WWD 2011 CEO SUMMIT ic, painstakingly art-directed billboards, the product and the execution right, it seldom works.” magazine ads and television commer- Since its acquisition by PVH in 2003, Calvin Klein’s cials, the brand has jumped into the less full-priced freestanding store count around the world BRAND controlled world of social media. “Social has grown from 93 to 660 in 2010, with a total of 700 media is a new and unpredictable fron- planned by yearend. This year, the brand will add over EVERYWHERE tier, but it can still be employed in disci- 470,000 square feet of direct-to-consumer retail selling plined and strategic ways consistent with space, nearly double the 250,000 square feet it added one’s brand image,” said Murry. Calvin two years ago. Klein live-streams its runway shows and now Emerging markets have been key to Calvin Klein’s has 1.7 million Facebook fans. global expansion. In 2008, South Korea became the The brand’s $400 million-plus worth of editorial brand’s biggest market in Asia, surpassing traditional coverage comes in large part from an aggressive cam- leader Japan. South Korea, in turn, was displaced by paign to dress Hollywood A-listers for red-carpet events. China this year as the biggest market on that continent. “But we don’t need or want everyone to be wearing Overall, Brazil has been the fastest ballooning mar- Calvin Klein,” said Murry, clicking through a slideshow ket for Calvin Klein, growing at a compound annual of the brand’s favored ambassadors, including Gwyneth growth rate of 141 percent since 2003, followed by India Paltrow, Emma Stone, Naomi Watts, Claire Danes, with a CAGR of 74 percent, China at 61 percent and Diane Kruger and Jennifer Lawrence. Mexico at 26 percent. All of these concerted advertising and marketing ef- Within the branding space, Calvin Klein maintains forts helped make Calvin Klein the world’s favorite de- a firm grip on all aspects of advertising and marketing signer brand, at least according to one Nielsen survey for its broad portfolio of licensed products, in order to in 2008 of over 25,000 Internet users in 48 markets. ensure consistency around the world. CKI operates a “We continue to strive to achieve ‘Brand full-scale, in-house public relations agency as well as Everywhere.’ But at the same time, as I mentioned at a dedicated in-house advertising agency, which jointly the outset, this isn’t our goal, per se,” summed up Murry. oversee the Calvin Klein brand image from a unified “‘Brand Everywhere” is a byproduct of our strategy of vantage point. The models are reviewed and selected by our fashion consistency and quality and the very best in innovation, “At any Calvin Klein event, in any city or country in office, which will also designate what looks they will design and execution. What I’ve described today is not a the world, we nonetheless remain a centralized opera- wear. Our visual team will assess the venue. Our spe- brand–centric model of success. It’s a consumer–centric tion controlled from our headquarters,” pointed out cial events team will oversee the production. If we have model of success.” Murry. “The graphics are done by our internal team. celebrity guests, our celebrity services team will be in- — DAVID LIPKE

that while New York represents the a markedly different assortment. In fact, American dream, the Chinese have “sim- Keith said the store moved away from the ilar dreams of prosperity and success.” franchise model, changed 80 percent of Nevertheless, the Chinese embrace its mix, partnered with some of the best- their own unique culture and don’t try to known luxury names in the world, and emulate the U.S. “China is modernizing, the result has been annual growth rates not Westernizing,” he said, pointing to the in excess of 20 percent. “Our customers country’s unique language and nuances. really crave newness,” he said. Even within China, there are a variety of In the past month alone, Lane Crawford different dialects, climates and lifestyles. and its sister companies, which include “It’s no longer one country with three tiers Joyce and the Pedder Group, have opened of cities,” Keith said. Instead, there are 18 stores, including the first online store now nine large markets, two megacities, for Lane Crawford. Keith stressed that the 25 developed cities and 620 emerging cit- online business was built especially for ies. “It’s as large and diverse as Europe,” the Chinese consumer, who has gravitated he said. “And that’s just Mainland China.” to the site because she trusts the compa- As a result, Lane Crawford, which ny, believes the product is authentic and has a 161-year history in that coun- knows its transactions will be secure. try, sees no reason to expand beyond The site started with 85 brands in wom- its borders. “China is big enough en’s wear and the financial results have and rich enough in opportunity to been impressive. The average transaction be our world,” Keith said. “But it re- is 30 percent higher than in the store and quires a different way of thinking and there’s been no resistance to price points. a different way of doing business.” “Women drive our business in China,” He pointed to the example of Starbucks, he said, noting that they account for more which in China, replaced milk with soya, than half the luxury sales in the country. and offers moon cakes on its menu, all “They have power and choice,” he said, “to make an emotional connection to the noting that they also love exclusivity. But customer” there. they also want to be treated as Chinese. “If ANDREW KEITH Keith detailed how China is home to Once companies take the time to un- they feel compromised, they won’t shop,” U.S. COMPANIES HOPING to reap the 1.37 billion people and is the second big- derstand the Chinese consumer, it can he said. “Our customers are Chinese and benefits of selling to China’s free-spend- gest economy in the world, with 189 bil- definitely pay off — even for companies they want to be spoken to as Chinese.” ing fashion-savvy consumers need to de- lionaires and 477 million Internet users. whose histories in that country date While the country is changing from a velop one virtue: patience. Some 55 percent of the population will back decades. Keith said in 2003, Lane manufacturing hub to one that consumes Andrew Keith, president of Lane be considered middle class by 2020. The Crawford underwent a repositioning to goods, Keith said it also generates origi- Crawford and Joyce, acknowledged that people there are technologically savvy better serve the customer who reads one nal ideas and thoughts in many areas, in- while China represents a huge opportu- and embrace luxury brands. In fact, he of the country’s 11,000 publications or cluding art and fashion. “They’re moving nity for brands, gaining success in that said, luxury sales in 2011 are expected to uses one of its 800 million mobile phones. from Made in China to Created in China.” country takes time. In order to gain a exceed $16 billion. “Consumers are connected to each other But capitalizing on that creativity takes a foothold, he said companies need to cre- Lane Crawford, which is the coun- and the world through the Internet.” while and companies need to “take a long- ate relationships, find the right partner try’s leading multibrand fashion retailer, To better service this savvy new cus- term position.” Keith said Lane Crawford “with a history of execution,” and be will- opened a store in Beijing in 2007, a city tomer, the company made the bold move takes a “very measured approach to ex- ing to invest time and resources to learn similar in ways to New York. He pointed of closing three franchised stores, re- panding in China,” and is expecting to how to best serve the Chinese consumer. to the creativity of both cities and said opening three years later in Beijing with triple its business there by 2015. WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 17 WWD.COM

DIRK STANDEN MARCO BIZZARRI FASHION EDITORS HAVE become the new BOTTEGA VENETA ISN’T the kind of brand that encour- celebrities of fashion week, thanks to the ages conspicuous consumption. Instead, the luxury goods rise of street-style photography. house embodies a discreet version of luxury with an inher- They have gone from observers of fashion ent understanding of quality and appreciation for service to fashion plates, where every step they take — values the division of PPR Luxury Group prides itself is captured and then quickly posted online on. There are “no ‘It’ bags, no fashionistas, no celebrities,” by street photographers such as Tommy Ton said president and chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri and Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist. Tuesday morning. “Instead, it’s always about discreet luxu- It’s the new reality for those attend- ry and craftsmanship. ing runway shows, where celebrities like “The core values at Bottega Veneta have always been Vanessa Paradis — Paris fashion plate, key,” he added. “In 1966, when the company was born, the Chanel model and wife of Johnny Depp — first tag line was and still is, ‘When your own initials are are now ignored in favor of writers from enough.’ You can understand what that means when you obscure indie publications, said Dirk purchase something from Bottega. You buy something for Standen, editor in chief of Style.com, part of yourself. We don’t want to show off.” Fairchild Fashion Media. “There has been Bizzarri, who joined Bottega Veneta in January 2009 a huge shift over the last five or six years,” from PPR sister brand Stella McCartney, heads one of the said Standen. “Street style is no longer the purest luxury players in fashion and a star brand at PPR, sideshow, it is the show.” responsible for some of the fastest growth within the lux- Photographers such as Ton and Schuman ury conglomerate’s portfolio of brands. At the summit, are responsible for raising the profiles of he focused on success in evolving markets, outlining how editors such as Elle’s Kate Lanphear, who Bottega Veneta was able to weather the financial turmoil is easily identified by her shock of white- of 2008 and 2009 and witness a “huge” rebound last year, blond hair, or the biggest street-style star of driven in part by emerging markets. “Throughout all of this, them all, Anna Dello Russo, editor at large consumer habits in mature markets and consumer behavior for Vogue Japan. Clothes are shown on the in emerging markets changed dramatically,” Bizzarri said, runway and then quickly shuttled to Dello citing Coco Chanel who, in 1932, said, “During a financial Russo, so she can wear them for the cameras crisis, the desire for authenticity is reborn, highlighting the the next day. “She’s the first to say that her real value of things.” first job is to style herself,” said Standen. Bottega Veneta’s strategy to maintain its growth has been But bloggers aren’t the only ones em- driven by its core mantra, and the philosophy of creative di- bracing this trend. Fashion designers have rector Tomas Maier, who considers luxury “a point of view jumped onboard and credit street photog- that is more about what you hide than what you show. It is a raphy as inspiration for their collections. relentless pursuit of excellence and quality for its own sake Alber Elbaz, for example, noticed on some and your own pleasure: not to show off.” blogs that women on the street were wear- ing eveningwear during the daytime and he incorporated that into his collection. These days, Standen noted that most designers Dolce & Gabbana was the first big-name fashion reference pictures of street style in their work stu- house to embrace Ton and Schuman, inviting them dios. Standen said he likes Ton’s work, partly be- to sit front-row at its show in September 2009. “This cause he has a “fashion editor’s eye,” and notices was shocking at the time,” Standen recalled. “But it the shoes, the bag, the accessories. “And, he spots was very smart of them and shows how quickly de- trends early, often before the designers do.” signers acknowledged the power of street style.” — AMY WICKS

DENISE INCANDELA, HAROLD REITER AND SUSAN LYNE MONDAY’S ROUNDTABLE at WWD’s CEO Summit, haven’t been in the retail industry. Ceo’s aren’t “Finding and Fostering the Next Generation of afraid to go out and look for [marketing] people who Retail Leaders,” could just as easily have been are completely out of the box.” called, “What’s Up With Generation Y?” “Gen-Y is a group who have to be engaged,” The cohort of young people born between the mid- said Incandela. “They’re constantly thinking Seventies and early-Aughts, are more entrepreneur- about their next step. We can move them laterally ial than previous generations and eager to start com- [so they don’t get bored.] There’s a difference in panies straight out of college. “People are coming to their work ethic, too. They have an expectation of us because they think there will be jobs in the inter- a greater work-life balance.” net and digital space,” said Susan Lyne, chairman Lyne agreed, adding that 95 percent of the people of Gilt Groupe, and one of three panelists. “Young she works with could be her children — she has two people now all want to start their own businesses.” daughters in their 20s. “My daughters will never own Members of Gen-Y also get bored easily and want a landline phone,” she said. “They program their TV things on their own terms. shows” so that they can watch what they want, when Denise Incandela, chief marketing officer and they want. “I see an enormous amount that’s positive president of Saks Direct, Saks Fifth Avenue, said in these young people,” Lyne said. “There’s enor- Unlike many of its competitors, Bottega Veneta decided some of the most in-demand job candidates are Web mous transparency. They’re very direct.” during the recession not to radically slash prices, which In order to give employees the flexibility would damage the brand image, and where others chose to and freedom they crave, Lyne said that a lot cut back their communications budget, the company decid- of Gilt Groupe employees work a day a week ed to step it up. And rather than cut back on its workforce, from home.” the company strengthened its team. The results have shown “The challenge is to accommodate these the firm made the right decisions. Last year, the company folks,” said Reiter. “If we burn these kids out reported total revenues of $715 million, up from $563 mil- they won’t be here when we need them to lion in 2009. run businesses.” Bottega Veneta is also doing much to preserve the crafts- According to Lyne, Gen-Y employees are manship it is known for. worth the challenges they bring to an organiza- “The main challenge in this company is the lack of arti- tion. “We spend a lot of time mentoring,” she sans, they are disappearing,” Bizzarri said. said. “We think they can bring something new. So, in 2006, Bottega Veneta joined up with the Vicenza We do a lot of internal recruiting. There’s a trade school Scuola d’Arte e Mestieri di Vicenza to set up a sense that you have mobility here and can apply three-year sponsored educational program for aspiring lux- for jobs and we won’t go outside” for candidates. ury handbag makers, who will learn to cut and hand-stitch Incandela said the key to nurturing Gen- leather and other skins and patternmaking from the com- Yers is making them feel they have an impact pany’s artisans. Bizzarri said programs like this underscore on the business. “We’re giving them opportuni- the equal importance of the idea and the realization of it. ties across the organization,” she said. “We’re “The two together make the difference,” he said. identifying the top talent and giving them Bottega Veneta also collaborates with other universities unusual exposure to the president or putting such as the University of Venice to promote the importance them on steering committees.” of skill and craftsmanship. It also teamed up with the gov- site designers. “People who understand how to cre- Asked how long people stay in junior positions, ernment of the Veneto region to start a program to finance ate the visual product and create a user experience Incandela said one to two years. “A lot of people get female artisans who worked in textiles and jewelry, but who are hard to find,” she said. “Marketing requires a moved within a year,” added Lyne. may have lost their jobs during the financial crisis. “After different skill set today — a left brain competency. In terms of breaking into Gilt Groupe, Lyne, seven to eight months, we have at least 100 women working We’re turning into a bit of a media company,” she who was president and ceo of Martha Stewart for us with this methodology,” Bizzarri said. “The idea was said, noting that people who understand social Omnimedia Inc. before joining Gilt, advised getting to try to maintain a strong root and foster the passion.” media and technology command a premium. “We’re a job as an assistant to the editor in chief. “You’ve As for continued growth, Bizzarri pointed to emerging looking for people who can take us ahead.” got the attention of someone that can be important markets such as Brazil and China, where shoppers’ prefer- “Five to 10 years ago, internet people came from to you long term,” she said. ences are evolving at a rapid pace and the early trend for catalogues,” said Harold Reiter, chairman and chief “We’ve had people who’ve left, come back and flashier luxury is increasingly being supplanted by quieter, executive officer of Herbert Mines Associates, a then left us again,” said Incandela. “This is a very more discreet alternatives. “Is the understated segment search firm. Today, that is far less the case. “Product difficult generation and you manage it the best you growing the most?” Bizzarri said. “For sure.” Perfect condi- jobs are the hardest to find candidates for. At the can and give them career opportunities.” tions for a brand like Bottega Veneta. ceo level it’s not uncommon to find people who — SHARON EDELSON — MARC KARIMZADEH

18 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

JAMES CURLEIGH ·· need a coffee experience that will JAMES CURLEIGH ISN’T your typical teach me a new language — venti chief executive officer. — and a surrounding that will With Bob Dylan’s “Blowin’ in the Wind” make me feel better than I WWD 2011 CEO SUMMIT blasting over the speakers, the scruffy, truly am and, in one minute long-haired Keen Footwear executive and 36 seconds, I would like took to the stage at WWD’s CEO Summit to customize my drink and BRAND Tuesday morning like a rock star ready to they better know my name.’ give an encore performance. Did anybody say that?” EVERYWHERE But if you look beyond his dudelike With Levi’s, Starbucks and a exterior, laid-back fashion sense and dis- host of other innovative brands tinctively noncorporate way of speaking, in mind, Curleigh and his team Curleigh has all the trappings of a dynam- set out to give the world something ic business leader. it never knew it want- “Music starts with ed — a sandal that pro- a creative spark,” tects your toes. Curleigh said, ex- We’ve got the Keen Dubbed the Newport plaining that he com- sandal, Keen created pares his eight-year- a rugged, all-weather old outdoor shoe Mullet going on. shoe with a thick rub- company to a band. ber sole that looks like “When it comes to Keep it simple something that one a brand, we talk a lot would imagine if a glad- about consumers and on the front, but iator sandal and hiking strategy. And we talk sneaker could mate. about complexity and “We love the fact that we talk about con- sophisticated there are some people cept,” he said, doing out here — I won’t ask his best to unload all in the back. for a show of hands — the business buzz- who would never put words used when de- — JAMES CURLEIGH, this shoe on their foot, scribing brand build- KEEN FOOTWEAR no matter what hap- ing. “Well, I’m pretty pens, right? That big sure Bob Dylan never ugly toed strappy thing, talked like that.” forget it, but there are Using the creativity needed in music as plenty of people that value the protection an underpinning for a company’s success, and breathability…and we’re OK with the ceo spoke of giving a brand’s “fans” — that,” he said before an uproarious crowd not customers — something they “didn’t of fashion execs and industry hands. know” they wanted, but something that Curleigh spoke of the importance of once they get it, “they can’t live without it.” Keen’s brand extension to footwear cat- “Did anyone say, ‘I’d like a pair of pants egories like utility, snow and hiking boots, that was invented during the mining era as well as the exploration of segments like of 1873 in blue denim that will last a long backpacks, totes and performance socks. time and makes me look cooler?’ I don’t Expanding beyond the Newport sandal ·· think so,” he said. “Did anybody say, ‘I ··is just one element of growth, according

ON-DEMAND VIDEO wwdglobal.fora.tv We love the fact that there are some people out here — I won’t ask for a show of hands — who would never put this shoe on their foot, no matter what happens, right?

to Curleigh, who said creating a sense Republic and began producing a vulca- of “inclusivity” is paramount to gaining nized shoe line. traction in the marketplace. On the flip But the “hybrid life” motto, that being side, realizing who your audience is — one of somewhat harmoniously existing and isn’t — is also important. juxtapositions, extends beyond product. For instance, the ceo said Keen doesn’t “We’ve got the Keen Mullet going target the teen market, but instead focuses on,” Curleigh said, of his firm’s business Calvin Klein Inc. KEEN Inc. Jack Wills on the 30- to 60-year-old demographic, as mantra. “Keep it simple on the front, Tom Murry James Curleigh Peter Williams well as the kids’ market because those but sophisticated in the back.” President & President & Founder & consumers tend to be drawn to the brand’s That sophistication includes an ag- Chief Executive Officer Chief Executive Officer Chief Executive Officer functionality and comfort. gressive digital strategy·· and a stud- on global reach on building a on authenticity and Bringing in a “multidimensional, ied domestic manufacturing plan. 21st century brand British style 360-degree look” of what your brand Unwilling to be at the mercy of China’s stands for and where it can go is part of rising transportation and labor costs, Keen’s model. Curleigh noted that part Keen built its own factory in Portland, of his firm’s focus is promoting the “hy- where it assembles materials that it brid life,” a somewhat intangible brand sources globally. motto that encompasses fusing concepts While this will cause Keen to raise CEO SUMMIT such as “innovation,” “sustainability” its prices from the $100 range to up- and “living outwardly.” ward of $220, it will also give the brand APPAREL & RETAIL In practice, this recently translated an opportunity to educate its consumer to the jump into vulcanization, an old- about the craftsmanship of its product school shoe-making process that doesn’t through new marketing campaigns, involve adhesives. Curleigh explained. With the aim to revitalize a craft “What I love about our product and that can produce a greener product, our brand is that we’re like ‘Forrest Keen scoured the globe for vulcaniza- Gump’,” the ceo said, grinning. “People tion machines. After refurbishing doz- are just willing us to win. Like, really, ens of them, the Portland, Ore.-based with these big, goofy shoes? We’re the re- brand set up a factory in the Dominican luctant hero.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 19

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CAROL GOLL shared via the Web, Twitter, Facebook and Internet- MEET CAROL GOLL, matchmaker to the stars. enabled TV. The Armani Jeans video was played 4.6 mil- Goll is head of global branded entertainment at lion times on YouTube. Fox’s Facebook page also offered International Creative·· Management, a talent and liter- additional exclusive Armani content, along with behind- ary agency representing clients in the fields of motion the-scenes video of Fox sharing thoughts about fashion pictures, television, publishing, music, theater, brand- and beauty topics. “Within minutes of Megan posting ed entertainment and digital media. Her job is to find the film, she had more than 30,000 ‘likes’ on Facebook. ways to marry worldwide brands, celebrity talent and That’s 30,000 people actually engaging with the brand on entertainment content in partnerships that are mutually an emotional level within seconds,” said Goll. beneficial. Prior to ICM, Goll spent more than 13 years Having a strong social media platform is an impor- in charge of brand marketing at Mercedes-Benz USA, tant aspect of celebrities’ careers, she said. “Music la- but then switched from cars to stars, New York to Los bels, film studios and TV networks all want a part of it. Angeles, and products to people, she said. And in more and more film and TV contracts, artists are One of the successful marriages she has arranged required to promote their projects on their own social was with actress Megan Fox, who was already a house- media platforms,” said Goll. Additionally, for endorse- hold name thanks to the first two “Transformers” mov- ments, having a strong social media component often determines who gets the deal. Another ICM client, actress Hailee Steinfeld, who ap- peared in “True Grit,” struck a deal to become the face Social media is playing an of Miu Miu, said Goll. She explained that by partnering with Steinfeld, Miu Miu aligned itself with a star who res- ever-increasing role in brand onates with girls and women alike because of her sweet- ness and inner strength. Steinfeld was also seen in a more sophisticated light as she seeks more mature roles. entertainment deals. Finally, Goll discussed an ad Eminem did for — CAROL GOLL, INTERNATIONAL Chrysler during this year’s Super Bowl. She explained it CREATIVE MANAGEMENT was a difficult time for Chrysler since “no one was buy- ing cars.” The car brand was out to reinvent itself as a luxury player with the tagline “Imported from Detroit.” ies, which have grossed over $1.5 billion worldwide. She cial media clout, where they’ve got a built-in focus group Eminem was overcoming his own personal challenges said Fox’s looks made her an obvious choice to be the and a loyal customer base, are in hot demand, she said. and was in the process of reinventing his own brand. face of a fashion luxury or cosmetics line. “But today Goll was able to pair Fox with Giorgio Armani, Eminem (who has 48 million fans on Facebook), made brands are asking more of a celebrity than just good and the actress became the face of Emporio Armani a cameo in the Chrysler spot which showed numerous looks and fame. Social media is playing an ever-increas- Underwear, Armani Jeans and Giorgio Armani images of the city of Detroit, from abandoned buildings ing role in brand entertainment deals,” she said. Cosmetics. During her presentation, Goll showed a sexy to the art and music scene, and delivered one line: “This Goll pointed out that many performers communicate Armani Jeans commercial, where a room service waiter is the Motor City, and this is what we do.” directly with their fans around the world through social delivers a meal to Fox’s room. As he sets up the tray, he “In the end, no one could have predicted the emotional media, deepening the personal, emotional connection watches her slowly getting dressed. When she goes to power this spot managed to capture, not just for Chrysler... people have with celebrities. Certain brands, which are give him a tip, the waiter declines — the scene of Fox but America as a whole. It almost made him a national folk seeking ways to reinvent themselves and·· appeal to a dressing herself being reward enough. hero overnight,” said Goll. That ad, for the Chrysler 200 au- younger demographic, are turning to celebrities who will A few years ago, an ad like this might have appeared tomobile, won an Emmy and was viewed 12 million times actively engage with their fans via Facebook and Twitter. on a few billboards and a couple of print ads, but today on YouTube. Not only that, but Chrysler reported a $116 Goll said she personally has 100 friends on Facebook. digital technology provides more avenues for it, said million profit for the first quarter for 2011, compared to a “Megan Fox? 29 million. She’s the No. 1 actress on Goll. She said digital technology provides limitless op- $197 million net loss for first quarter of 2010. Facebook today,” she said. Actresses with that kind of so- tions to deliver content, and images and videos can be — LISA LOCKWOOD

MARK DERBYSHIRE hit it a month early. All nonsales employees were also HOLT RENFREW & CO., Canada’s 174-year-old luxu- eligible, if their teams or stores hit their targets, mark- ry chain, has a formula for profits — be the same and ing the first time many of them had a chance for a bonus. be different. ·· “There were no losers. If a person doesn’t hit their goals, “Our business is still the same — we haven’t opened they are asked to donate some time to charity.” new stores over these past two years, or expanded sig- The result of the experiment: 50 percent of employ- nificantly into any new markets, but we’re thinking and ees won. “That’s impressive when you consider that acting very differently,” Mark Derbyshire, president of only 14 percent hit plan in 2009,” Derbyshire noted. Holt Renfrew, said. “We have learned that we can’t be “The bet turned out to be a huge success, finan- successful unless our employees truly get it.” cially, but more powerful was its role in producing a Derbyshire said that in the past two years, the change in our culture. It truly supports teamwork.… Canadian apparel market rose more than 10 percent, Commissioned sales associates were giving some of while Holt increased more than 20 percent, and record their sales to their colleagues so that they could make profits were achieved last year. Core designer divisions, it. But it wasn’t the money — it was the challenge. in particular women’s apparel and accessories, rose Everyone wanted to show their team — and to show me more than 40 percent, he added. “We’ve also improved what they could do. Holt and the employees weren’t the our performance on full-price sell- only winners here. Our customers through by over 11 points.…But num- and our vendors felt the spirit.” bers can only tell part of the story.” The President’s Bet is on again The story begins in January We need to this year, Derbyshire added, and to 2010, when Derbyshire became get staff further motivated, the top president after serving as chief tal- transform the winners will get a trip to Las Vegas ent officer for Wittington Fashion instead of $500. Retail Group, the holding company To better partner with vendors, for Holt, Selfridges in the U.K. and way people think Derbyshire said, “We [began] part- Brown Thomas in Ireland. “In my nering on initiatives that would first few months, I really wanted to of us in order to help raise funds for causes near and understand what was going on in the dear to their hearts. We weren’t ask- company and how everyone felt.” transform our ing them to help us raise money. We He knew Holt always focused on wanted to help them raise money. products and how stores appeared, Our idea was based on a simple, but he decided to talk to hundreds business. powerful formula: sell 10,000 of one of employees, vendors and custom- — MARK DERBYSHIRE, worldwide exclusive item in 10 days, their favorite runway dress, and not see it sitting there ers. “I needed to know what we were HOLT RENFREW & CO. with all proceeds to go to the ven- at the end of the season for someone else to buy at 40 to doing well and where our opportu- dor’s charity of choice.” Holt’s Web 60 percent off. But I will admit we had some resistance nities were.” He learned employees site and stores were merchandised at first. Some people wanted us to continue to discount were not fully engaged, though they top to bottom with the items, and when New York [stores] did, and we had some interest- wanted to be, and customers liked the store but liked it supported by events. ing standoffs.” best when there was a sale, or for special occasion pur- “To date, we’ve raised almost $300,000 for three However, we stood our ground, ensuring we were chases. He also learned that vendors thought Holt could different causes selected by three different ven- giving them the very best experience and the products be a stronger partner. dors — most recently for the Canadian Breast Cancer they wanted. “It was clear we had to change things, and we’re still Foundation.…In addition to helping out with some very “When we do run a promotional event, it’s designed changing things,” Derbyshire said. “I firmly believe that worthy causes, what is really of value to us is that these to drive traffic back in for full-price shopping. So, we need to transform the way people think of us in order vendors are seeing us differently.” when we do offer gift cards as part of a promotional to transform our business. At Holt, we needed people to To break from a focus on discounting, and to get cus- event, they expire before our seasonal break. And on distinguish us.…It’s one individual at a time…each em- tomers to shop earlier and at full price, Derbyshire said average, customers have been spending three dol- ployee, each customer and each vendor, but when it takes the assortment was customized to each market, the fre- lars for every dollar they earn on those promotional hold, let me tell you it works, because it’s organic — it’s quency·· of deliveries was increased so the selection was cards.…In the short term, we’ve experienced more not forced. I didn’t want to tell them what to do. I wanted fresher, and sales promotions were reduced from 16 in traffic, higher sales and a very healthy 11-point in- them to think about what they had to do.” 2009 to six last year, and four this year. crease in full-price sell-through. In September 2010, Derbyshire launched the “From listening to our customers, we know they “For the long term, we’ve transformed the way our President’s Bet whereby sales associates received $100 if wanted price integrity after the inventory excess that customers think of us.” they hit their plan by the end of the year, and $500 if they peaked in 2008,” Derbyshire said. “They wanted to buy — DAVID MOIN 20 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM RNKD Rewards Site Launches Bar Refaeli first universal loyalty program that creates a direct rela- By LISA LOCKWOOD tionship between consumers and their favorite brands on- line. On the RNKD platform, discounts and perks are used A NEW WEB SITE called RNKD.com, a loyalty program as a reward for past behavior and loyalty, rather than as a between consumers and brands, goes live today. The site is brand’s first impression. the brainchild of Nick Swinmurn, founder of Zappos. The way it works is that by referring friends, “liking” Headquartered in Silicon Valley, Calif., RNKD is an photos and uploading images of one’s own clothes and ac- online platform and mobile app that rewards people for cessories to RNKD, the consumer earns points, badges and what’s in their closet. Customers can get perks from ven- discounts. The user can also browse profiles to see what is in other people’s closets and discover new brands. According to Swinmurn, RNKD was built on the idea that past behavior is a better determinant than a “wish list” for what one will buy next. With RNKD, brands will be able to better reward the consumer for future purchases by analyzing what one already owns. He said once the site gets rolling, manufacturers can decide to offer perks such as free shipping or discount STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY coupons, or even first dibs at closeout merchandise, or to view a new collection before anyone else. To get started, he’s offering consumers gift cards to Zappos. Bar Refaeli to Unveil All of this is expected to create loyalty between the customer and the brand, and for customers to build re- Own Innerwear Line lationships with their favorite brands. PARIS — Bar Refaeli’s next project will be “Every consumer has favorite brands and stores modeling her own innerwear line due to they are loyal to, but most have never been recognized launch in January. or rewarded for their purchases. In today’s world of Refaeli plans to introduce the collec- daily deals, everyone is given the same access to of- tion, which goes by the name Undeez, on the fers — RNKD’s vision is to let retail brands modulate brand’s e-commerce site, which is due to open their sales structures to reward loyal customers versus in Europe in early 2012, before going live in the giving fly-by-night consumers a good deal just because U.S. later in the year. they have a computer and access to the ‘Net. If you buy The line focuses on comfortable everyday ba- more shoes from Nike than anyone else — shouldn’t you sics for women and men, according to Refaeli, be given early access to new lines and different pricing including innerwear, undershirts, tights and than someone who is trying the product for the first time camisoles in a variety of shapes and colors. and may never buy again?” said Swinmurn. “We have professional designers, of course, Swinmurn said the idea came to him on a plane but my ideas and input go into every single when he didn’t know who his customers were for item.…I try everything before it’s manufac- The RNKD Web site. the small men’s streetwear brand he owns called tured. I choose the fabric and have the last Dethroned. He said it’s too early to say who the early word on the items,” Refaeli said. dors, and earn rewards for future purchases. Instead of adapters will be, and he expects word-of-mouth to build The collection, which is positioned in the getting discounts after buying new items, consumers can the customer and manufacturer participants. He said affordable-midrange price segment, targets receive VIP access with discounts and deals for things vendors can go online, do a search and see all the people people age 25 to 45. they already own. who own their brand. The brands can then communicate Refaeli models for brands such as In an interview, Swinmurn, founder and chief execu- directly with the customer, create focus groups and offer Passionata, Gap and Agua Bendita. tive officer, said he felt there had to be a better way for various perks. Swinmurn said he doesn’t plan for the site — KATYA FOREMAN vendors to know who their customers are and to create a to carry advertising, but rather it will have the ability to channel of communication. The site is expected to be the get “tons of data and in that, you can extract some value.” Celine, Safilo in Eyewear Licensing Deal MILAN — Celine has inked a five-year licensing agreement In addition to its own brands, which include Carrera, for the production and worldwide distribution of its eyewear Safilo produces premium eyewear collections for brands collections with Safilo Group. The styles will bow in January such as Giorgio Armani, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, in Celine boutiques and selected points of sale globally. Bottega Veneta, Dior, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Yves “We are extremely pleased to announce a licensing Saint Laurent and Max Mara. agreement with a brand as exclusive as Celine,” said Marco Gobbetti, ceo of Celine, affirmed that “thanks to Roberto Vedovotto, chief executive officer of the Italian Safilo’s experience and knowhow in the eyewear indus- eyewear manufacturer. “This new collaboration allows us try our collections will express the modern elegance and to add one of the most desirable names in international highest quality that distinguish all Celine’s products as fashion to our portfolio, while strengthening our ties with unique and timeless icons.” the LVMH group.” — LUISA ZARGANI LVMH Brands Share Spot in Sephora

BENEFIT AND MAKE UP FOR EVER, two brands Make Up For Ever and Benefit have a owned by LVMH, shared a shop-in-shop for their shop-in-shop in Sephora in Milan. European premieres last Thursday in Sephora’s Milan flagship. Make Up For Ever and Benefit became neigh- The gallianostore.com site. bors on the sprawling mezzanino floor of the perfumery, which also is owned by LVMH. The 10,000-square-foot store opened 10 months ago on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Galliano Brand Goes Celebrating its first shop-in-shop boutique in Europe, Benefit global beauty authorities Maggie and Annie Ford Danielson — daughters of co-founder Jean Into E-commerce Ford who created the company with twin sister Jane PARIS — Galliano, the secondary line pro- Ford — hinted that Paris, Madrid and Barcelona could duced by Italy’s Ittierre SpA, is thrusting ahead be the next Europe boutique locations. Pink walls and into the burgeoning e-commerce realm. vintage displays offer 200 products and services, in- The John Galliano Co. went live Tuesday cluding a brow bar, facial waxing and threading, eye- with gallianostore.com, selling apparel and ac- brow and eyelash tinting, spray tanning and makeup cessories for women and men and offering in- parties. Benefit has a presence in 34 countries. ternational shipping. The English-language site Across the floor, Make Up For Ever offers a Make is designed and operated by Milan-based The Up School and 1,200 references out of its 1,400, including 1999. After entering Sephora in 2001, Make Up For Ever Level Group. bestseller Smoky Lash mascara and artistic base Clown will be available in 300 Sephora stores by the end of this The site’s features include “searchandis- White. In addition to its Italian boutique debut, Make Up year. In Europe, France holds the largest percentage of ing,” described as a merchandising tool driven For Ever premiered a line of 50 lipsticks with slick pack- sales with Italy close behind. Next up is the opening of its by real-time customer preferences. aging called Rouge Artist Natural, which will be available first public Paris flagship on Nov. 29 and a Make Up For Ittierre has held the license for Galliano in January. Ever Academy opening in January in New York’s Union since 2006, having since expanded the ranges Make Up For Ever was founded by creative and artistic Square neighborhood. to include men’s wear, leather goods and foot- director Dany Sanz in 1984 and was bought by LVMH in — COURTNEY SMITH wear. — MILES SOCHA HAUTE TIME: Donatella Versace is returning to the couture calendar in Milan. WWD STYLE PAGE 23 MEMO PAD

ON THE MENU: Hunger is a new biannual glossy being launched by Rankin. The title’s launch issue, due to hit newsstands internationally on Thursday, offers two cover options, featuring either Welsh actor Rhys Ifans brandishing a dagger close to his face or American singer Sky Ferreira. The British photographer shot most of the 512-page issue, which carries no advertising. Features include a profile of actor Terence Stamp, who discusses his not-so-smooth start in acting; a story on a villager living in a remote area in Kenya, and an interview with evergreen model Erin O’Connor. A mixed cast from the fashion and music realms Gothic was lined up for the fashion shoots, including Heidi Klum, Kelis and Milla Jovovich. Hunger’s digital platform, hungertv.com, will screen exclusive content and behind-the-scenes films of the shoots in the magazine. With a Glam cover price of 7.99 euros, or $10.86 Rooney Mara may still be sporting the at current exchange, the new title will start off with a print run of “Girl With the Dragon Tattoo” haircut, but 100,000. — NATASHA MONTROSE the actress brightened up in Calvin Klein Collection for the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund gala dinner in New York on Monday night. The actress introduced Klein before his keynote address. Later in the evening, Joseph Altuzarra took home this year’s award. For more, see page 22.

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Sky Ferreira on the cover of Hunger. SHOPKICK, CW NETWORK TEAM UP: Starting Tuesday, Shopkick users can turn on their Shopkick app while watching any show on the CW network, whether its “Vampire Diaries” or “Gossip Girl,” and get their “kicks” during commercial breaks. The “kicks” can be redeemed for gift cards at Target, Macy’s and American Eagle, to name a few retailers. The “kicks” are loaded onto the smartphone via the app, which listens for the audio sound from the television to determine the reward offer. Cyriac Roeding, co-founder and chief executive officer of Shopkick, said the target demographic group of the CW network, women between ages 18 to 39 years old who are also fashion savvy, typically represents the highest response rate among viewers. Joining Shopkick’s 10 other retail partners last week was Old Navy, where Shopkick walk-in rewards are now live in all of the retailer’s nearly 1,000 U.S. locations. At Old Navy, “kicks” can be redeemed for in-store gift cards, song downloads, movie tickets and Facebook credits. — VICKI M. YOUNG 22 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

Joan Smalls in Altuzarra.

Shane Gabier and Chris Peters Fund and Games “THERE ARE so many tal- I was just barely in business. Hannah ented people here tonight,” At that point, I began to real- Bronfman in said Rooney Mara, scanning ize how important it was to not Organic by the room at the CFDA/Vogue think that I know everything.” John Patrick. Fashion Fund dinner gala Klein turned to one of his Monday, which included first employers, who was a the likes of Donna Karan, Vera manufacturer, for advice. “He Wang, Francisco Costa, Diane von said, ‘Don’t worry I will take Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, care of it,’” Klein said. “I told

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Haider Ackermann and Calvin Klein, him they wanted 25 cents to whom she introduced. “He’s deliver a box and he said, ‘25 an icon,” said Mara. cents is OK.’” She wasn’t alone in This was one of her excitement about several highlights in the fashion legend and eye Klein’s lengthy but ani- keynote speaker. “I mated speech, which have never had a chance clearly delighted the to meet him,” said Billy Reid, crowd, including Joe Jonas, last year’s winner. “It would Chloë Moretz, Amanda Seyfried, be just an honor to see him.” Hannah Bronfman, Carmelo and Klein, for his part, didn’t Lala Anthony, Zoë Kravitz and Mia disappoint, dishing out some Wasikowska. advice to the designers in the Vogue’s Anna Wintour, mean- room, who included Tory Burch, while, revealed the CFDA/ Olivier Theyskens, Alexander Wang, Vogue Fashion Fund China Behnaz Sarafpour, Jack McCollough Exchange, which will be un- and Lazaro Hernandez, Prabal derwritten by Silas Chou. It aims Gurung and the night’s winner, to help American designers Joseph Altuzarra, and runners-up better understand the Chinese Pamela Love and Creatures of market and vice versa, and will the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Chris kick off next year with a team Peters. Klein talked about his from Proenza Schouler visiting Calvin Klein and early days and how he built his China, and Chinese designer Joseph Altuzarra business with Barry Schwartz; his Uma Wang coming to New York. first $50,000 order from Bonwit As for the night’s winner Teller; growing his name into and two runners-up, they nat- Giovanna Battaglia in a lifestyle brand, and having urally couldn’t contain their Ohne Titel with Haider plenty of excitement — some- excitement. Within seconds Ackermann. times of the fear-inducing of winning, Gabier and Peters kind, like a run-in with the were on the phone to inform notorious Gambino family. “I their mothers, and Altuzarra, Chloë Moretz dealt with truckmen, unions, who had already been nomi- in Suno with and gangsters,” Klein recalled. nated last year, was basking Amanda “One day, I got a call from the in the spotlight. “It’s pure Seyfried Gambinos telling me that they happiness,” he said. “It was in Prabal are now my truckmen. I said, worth the wait.” Gurung. ‘What do you mean, truckmen?’ — MARC KARIMZADEH

Zac Posen with Pamela Coco Rocha Love in Sophie Theallet. in Suno.

MORE PARTY PICTURES AT WWD.com/ eye. WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

HAUTE TO TROT: Donatella SUMMER SUN: Sunglass Versace, whose one-off Hut is gearing up for line with H&M hits another float — this time stores on Thursday, on Sydney Harbor. The hasn’t forgotten about premium eyewear chain, the other end of the which operates 200 stores price spectrum. On in Australia and New Tuesday, the Chambre Zealand, is launching Syndicale de la Haute a floating pop-up store Couture issued a one- that will be moored at line press release saying Sydney’s Darling Harbour Versace is back on the and Manly Wharf from official couture calendar Friday through Sunday. in January. According Boasting a transparent to sources, the Milanese fit-out and DJ booth, the house will show on the Donatella boutique will be staffed first day, Jan. 23, in the Versace by some of Luxottica’s top first time slot. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY performing global retail Versace last staff, who are being flown appeared on the official couture in for the event. It will offer a selection calendar in January 2004. The firm of the chain’s global bestsellers, in never discontinued this category, addition to 150 new-to-market styles opting instead for low-key, still-life from Prada, Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana presentations with sittings for editors and other brands, which won’t be only. A Versace spokesman had no available to purchase anywhere else in comment on the development. the world until February. “At Luxottica, we believe that FOR A FRIEND: Barbra Streisand will people around the world are hungry present long-time friend Donna for innovative retail concepts that Karan with The Dream Foundation’s intensify emotions and enhance their Founders Award on Friday at the purchasing experience. With the Bacara Resort & Spa in Santa first floating store located at Sydney Barbara, Calif. The organization, Harbor, Sunglass Hut sets the tone, which fulfills the dreams of adults attracting shoppers that will be at the end stages of their lives, inspired by the natural scenery while previously awarded the honor to Jeff shopping the best eyewear selection and Susan Bridges, and Sheryl Lowe, and of world-known fashion brands,” chose to fete Karan this year for her said Fabio d’Angelantonio, Luxottica’s work with the Urban Zen Foundation. executive vice president, sun and The event will feature a fashion luxury, and chief marketing officer. show introduced by Saks Fifth The festivities are due to kick off with Avenue’s Ron Frasch, with looks from a party on Thursday night, when the the upcoming Donna Karan spring barge drops anchor at Campbells Cove, collection and performances by Macy right next to the Overseas Passenger Gray, Pia Toscano, Naya Rivera, Amber Riley Terminal — also known as Sydney’s and Jackson Guthy. Dan Aykroyd will also fashion epicenter, which from April 30 host a silent auction in which guests to May 4 will be home to the 17th annual can bid on a private dinner with edition of the newly renamed Mercedes- Morgan Freeman and a $2,500 shopping Benz Fashion Week Australia. spree at Saks in New York, among other high-ticket items. RESTORING RESTORATION: The party celebrating Restoration Hardware’s new WEARING THE JETS: “I have wanted a Design Gallery store in Houston was Spaces Jets jersey, and I have been wearing a collection of co-chairman and chief little boys’ small for too many years,” executive officer Gary Friedman’s favorite said Suzanne Johnson, wife of New York things. Bellinis hand-mixed by a Cipriani Jets owner Woody Johnson. So she has bartender? Yes, please. Curated bites by helped revamp NFL women’s apparel Michael Chiarello? Of course. An intimate ACCOUNT EXEC and hosted the first women’s wear pop- concert by one of Friedman’s favorite Seeking an enthusiastic account exec- utive with 2-5 years of experience in up event before the Jets and Patriots performers, Lykke Li? Why not? the luxury and/or contemporary mar- squared off at MetLife Stadium in East The 25,000-square-foot space ket. Must have established relation- ships with high end specialty stores, Rutherford, NJ., Sunday night. felt more like a lush and airy home, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, department stores, and international With the help of the NFL, Johnson rather than a retail giant, and the PRODUCTIONS stores. Please email resume to: Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] created a pregame Miami-nightclub- prerecession-style blowout wound Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 inspired shopping experience, which through each of the store’s four floors, Salesperson/Merchandiser was replete with dangling black and bites and beverages served at each stop. for Ladies Dress Co. Min 3-5 yrs exp. white crystal chandeliers, loud dance “This is a personal expression of what Knowledge with Chain stores a plus. music and cocktails. we love. The concept of a gallery allows Fax resume to: 212-504-2779 Held in front of the stadium, fans, expression. Everything we do here once passed the velvet rope, entered comes from the heart,” Friedman said. a large white tent where they browsed There was certainly no detail left racks of NFL-inspired apparel, undone for the company’s second handbags, footwear and jewelry. introduction of the new store concept, “This is great. It looks like Starbucks which includes the International in here,” Woody Johnson said loudly Design Bibliotheque, organic tea over the blaring music, as he touched atelier by Belloco, floral boutique by one of the white leather chairs that David Brown, baby and child design occupied the makeshift lounge. showroom and European garden Well Established Accessory company specializing in socks, cold weather and To continue the strong momentum of conservatory. Restoration Hardware headwear for Men’s, Women’s, Girls NFL women’s wear, the Johnsons have launched the concept in San and Boys with over 20 years in Business has the following career tapped their friend and Jets enthusiast Francisco, and bringing it to Houston opportunities open for: Harvey Weinstein to ask his wife, was the next logical expansion step. Senior salespeople with STRONG cur- The crush of 1,500 guests may rently active relationships at any or all Marchesa co-founder Georgina Chapman, of the following areas of distribution: to design a shirt. Set to hit stores in not have had antiqued doorknobs or CLUB STORES, MASS MARKET, September, that collaboration will be stonewashed Belgian linen on their MID-TIER, DEPARTMENT STORES; Junior level salespeople currently sell- one of many designer partnerships minds, especially after ascending to ing to specialty chains, department Suzanne Johnson is lining up. the rooftop garden, where seating, stores, grocery & drug chains and vari- ous B & C level accounts; Aside from a soon-to-be disclosed greenery, flickering candlelight and Sales assistant - ambitious, detail orient- accessories collaboration, the NFL views greeted them. Instantaneous ed person to support sales team and de- will likely team up with sponsor buzz broke out about the space and velop & grow their own account base; Shipping and Logistics people - Self Tiffany & Co. for the Super Bowl, the desire to rent it for private events. motivated, energetic communicators which will be hosted by the Jets and Four stories below, Friedman stood needed to process orders from start to Giants in 2014. on the curving stairwell, greeting guests finish, including EDI and replenishment. “Every year, we want to do and singing along to Li and her band. Please email: [email protected] something with a little sparkle,” “She sang “I Follow Rivers,” Johnson said. Friedman said. “I love that song.” AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2011. ILLUSTRATION BY SHARON BER Headwinds Strong Facing currencies thataffectapparelandraw materialprices. Companies have todealwithvolatile had swings inglobal SECTION II SECTION 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS European Firms Face Currency, Cost Issues

PHOTO BY PETER DAZELEY/GETTY IMAGESPHOTO BY

“Our buy is euro-denominated and we sell in ton and wool do have an impact on final prices, and By SAMANTHA CONTI pounds, so it’s been a nightmare,” he said. “Since 2004, this is something we discuss, at length, with our ex- we’ve seen a 20 percent appreciation of the euro ver- hibitors. The savviest ones are willing to accept lower LONDON — Earlier this month, Nick Hayek, chief sus the pound. We’re·· getting squeezed from all sides.” profit margins in times like these. They’re willing to executive officer of Swatch Group AG, complained Rhodes said between the rise in raw material take a step backward and they know that good times about the impact of the mighty Swiss franc on sales, costs and the increase in the value of the euro, he’s will return.” and especially those made in dollars. He called the had to raise his retail prices 20 percent in the seven Jeweler Lucas Jack, who shows at Pure in London, franc’s exchange rate in August and September “cata- years he’s been in business. is taking exactly that approach. He said despite the strophic,” and said the problem is ongoing, although Ruth Chapman, who owns the multibrand designer spike in gold prices over the past year, he won’t be he hopes 2012 will bring better news. boutique Matches with her husband Tom, is another raising his prices in February. Hayek is just one of many European brand owners London-based entrepreneur who’s grappling with the “My jewelry is gold-plated and I’ve tried to absorb and suppliers who are suffering the ill effects of cur- impact of the strong euro. Matches carries designer the increases as much as possible,” Jack said. “My rency ups and downs, and a trifecta of rising raw ma- labels ranging from Azzedine Alaïa and Balenciaga to prices will be comparable with last year’s. I’m sensi- terial, labor and transport costs. Although it remains Acne and Rag & Bone, and also has an in-house wom- tive to my customers’ needs at a time like this.” unclear what, exactly, will happen to the euro in the en’s wear line called Freda. In a bid to sidestep the currency drama altogether, coming months, the rising cost of doing business is one as well as control costs and manufacturing processes, reality that won’t go away. British companies are increasingly looking nearer to “One of the biggest hurdles in doing business home. Buyers from outside Britain are also taking a today is the rising prices of raw materials and labor,” Our buy is euro-denominated fresh look at a country that’s traditionally been con- said Puma’s ceo, Franz Koch. “That trend will con- sidered too expensive on a variety of levels. tinue, so we have to figure out how to preserve our “It’s fair to say there’s a renewed interest in prod- gross profit.” and we sell in pounds, so it’s ucts coming from the U.K.,” said Paul Alger, director, Rupert Sanderson, founder and owner of the international affairs at the U.K. Fashion & Textile namesake, vertically integrated footwear brand, been a nightmare. Association. “The pound has been fairly weak recent- agreed. Although he’s based in London’s Mayfair, his ly and, from a Japanese and European Union point of factory, which he owns, is located near Bologna, Italy, — JUSTIN RHODES, ELLIOT RHODES view, British products don’t look quite as expensive and he does his business chiefly in euros. as they used to.” “Raw material prices are creeping up, from thread The UKFT has recently launched a “Let’s Make It to insole boards to hardware,” said Sanderson dur- Chapman said her customers don’t care if the Here” initiative that aims to hook up Britain’s manu- ing an interview at his studio. “The man who supplies price of an Alaïa piece rises by 200 pounds, or $320. facturers, many of which are high end and niche, with my heels has raised his prices 10 percent because he “It’s the in-between brands where we’re really homegrown designers and brands. uses resins and petrochemicals, which are also in- being cautious,” she said. “If it’s not superluxurious, “There are fewer fuel and shipping costs, the creasing in price.” then we’ll make a price-driven decision on whether British factories can commit to smaller orders, and According to the Platts Global Petrochemical or not to take it.” they are usually hungrier and more flexible than they Index, average prices in October were 3.5 percent Simona Severini, general manager of the Italian would be in the Far East,” Alger said. “The mood in higher year-on-year. trade fair White, said life is no different·· in Italy. Britain has changed, and the U.K. government is keen Justin Rhodes, founder of the British leather belt Because of the strength of the euro relative to the dollar to see manufacturing at the top of the agenda.” and buckle brand Elliot Rhodes, said metal prices have and the pound, buyers are inclined to splash out only if The Chapmans, owners of Matches, are a case in risen 5 to 8 percent every year since he started the busi- the product is a quality one with a strong identity. point. They source and manufacture their in-house ness in 2004, while sterling silver prices have tripled. “They’ll buy if there is quality and a point of view, line, Freda, entirely in the U.K. “You have to pass some of that through to the consum- and to offset the extra expense, they’ll invest in fewer “We’ve been working with the British mills,” er,” said Rhodes, who will be taking part in Scoop, the generic products like T-shirts and sandals that don’t Chapman said. “It’s very easy to control what’s going British trade show, for the first time next year. have as clear an identity,” said Severini, adding that on and you can build strong relationships with your Rhodes, who has just opened his third London raw material and labor costs were also a major issue factories and suppliers, which is really good. We’re store off Oxford Street, has also been grappling for White’s exhibitors, which include AG Adriano not sourcing or manufacturing anything in dollars for with another problem: the increasingly unfavorable Goldschmied, Faliero Sarti and Ornamenta. “Of Freda. It’s too much headache and the savings would pound-euro exchange rate. course, the rising cost of raw materials such as cot- not be great enough.”

4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS

Milano Unica’s outdoor runway. Fairs in Europe Focus on Expansion

TRADE SHOW ORGANIZERS in the Vivier-Guerin said, citing Lejaby. The necessarily affect all of the areas of But he had a positive outlook, nonethe- U.K. and on the Continent have an up- brand, which in late October filed for the planet to the same degree,” said less. He expects about 350 exhibitors in beat but realistic outlook for the first the French equivalent of Chapter 11 Scherpe, who confirmed that around 80 January, and noted that the decision to half of next year. bankruptcy protection, has been accept- percent of Texworld’s textile manufac- again host the men’s, women’s and de- Many are expanding or enhancing ed and has confirmed that it will attend turer exhibitors are Asian. “The world’s sign exhibitions during Milan Fashion their venues to accommodate and entice the show. Despite the economic turmoil population has just hit seven billion and Week will help satisfy buyers’ desire to clients, while others are planning to ex- in Greece, Vivier-Guerin added that the all of those people need dressing.” place their orders earlier in the season, pand in the Far East, all with the aim of Greek brand Nota has also confirmed Italian trade show organizers, though as well as optimize their time and save drumming up business. its attendance and that several brands aware the tough economy will likely im- travel costs. Trade show organizers in Paris long absent from the showcase have pact turnout, are equally upbeat. They “Certainly, in this scenario, the remain vigilant, coming off of a slug- also booked space, such as Gossard and are forging ahead with preparations, successful are those who have a win- gish performance for France’s cloth- Marlies Dekkers. emphasizing the Made in Italy quality ning product and a flexible company ing sector, impacted by weak summer “The big question mark is the and brand. structure that allows strategy revision sales and a limp back-to-school pe- visitors,” said Bertrand Foäche, co- “The economic situation inevita- based on need,” said Bizzi. “For this riod. Clothing sales for the month of founder of trade show operator WSN bly has an impact on the participation reason, I believe small to medium- September in France slid 7.5 percent Developpement, which in January will levels at all fairs,” said Silvio Albini, sized Italian companies that empha- year-on-year, according to a report by introduce its new show format. the new president of Milano Unica. “At size a high-quality Made in Italy prod- the French Institute of Fashion. In the Under the umbrella label Who’s stake there are the expectations regard- uct are suffering less.” nine months ended Sept. 30, clothing Next, Prêt à Porter Paris, the Jan. 21 to ing consumer behavior and consequent- London trade show organizers sales fell 2.4 percent versus the equiva- 24 Portes de Versailles editions of the ly on planning for production levels. At are approaching the New Year with lent year-ago period. Who’s Next, Premiere Classe and Prêt the moment, even if we are dealing with a similar spirit, despite the cloudy “The challenge of all of the brands à Porter Paris salons will be grouped a slowing number of orders, it seems to macroeconomic environment and the is not only to deliver the most beautiful together in 1.3 million square feet of me that there is a gap between the terri- push back from increasingly cash- collections and campaigns, but to reas- exhibition space. This will make it the ble way the financial markets are going strapped consumers. sure clients on the economic health world’s biggest fashion trade show, of- and the way the real economy is going, According to Carole Hunter, direc- of their company, and the quality of fering 2,500 apparel and accessories growing less than expected at the begin- tor of marketing at the LondonEdge product, deliveries, and after-sales ser- brands, according to Foäche. Despite ning of the year but seemingly without and LondonCentral trade shows, for vice,” said Cécile Vivier-Guerin, proj- those changes, Foäche was not overly entering a recession.” the first time in several seasons, or- ect manager of the Salon International optimistic and expects the season to be Albini said Milano Unica will go to ganizers feel things are looking up. de la Lingerie innerwear trade show, “a difficult one” in terms of business for China next year — Beijing in March and She said new areas have been added scheduled to run Jan. 21 to 23 at the the exhibitors. Shanghai in October — and noted there to LondonEdge, such as the Secret Porte de Versailles. Reporting “no negative feedback so is “great appreciation” for Italian prod- Garden — where tired showgoers can Eager to maintain visitor numbers, far,” meanwhile, Michael Scherpe, pres- ucts in Asia. chill out — Vintedge, which encom- SIL recently embarked on an aggressive ident of Messe Frankfurt France, which Massimiliano Bizzi, president of passes wholesale vintage companies, promotional campaign targeting store owns the Texworld and Ethical Fashion White, which showcases niche men’s and the Tent, which houses festival owners in far-flung territories like the Show trade shows, said that it was busi- and women’s wear, as well as design lifestyle companies. U.S. and Canada. Providing support to ness as usual. and beauty products, said trade show Most other shows, too, are expand- struggling brands is also paramount, “There are problems that don’t organizers face numerous problems. ing and improving their exhibitor space WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 5 WWD.COM based on a rise in visitor numbers and sales last season. British Bridal Exhibitions Harrogate will be looking to fill an extra 3,240 square feet with new exhibitors, and will be expanding into new halls in the Harrogate International Center for the Bridal Buyer Berlin Buzzing With Activity Awards. Emma Charter, marketing manager of BBEH said: “The bridalwear industry has not been as affected by the [economic] That doesn’t mean just expensive, but rather crisis, as brides will always be searching for the perfect dress.” By MELISSA DRIER new, classical, a mix. We’ve reduced the more Bridalwear isn’t the only industry on the upswing. In June last commercial players, and denim too is no lon- year, Bubble London, the children’s wear show, held its largest BERLIN — When it comes to trade show activ- ger just blue denim. You need to be special as a summer edition to date and the numbers appear to be on the up. ity, Berlin has turned into a boom town. denim brand.” Lindsay Hoyes from Bubble said: “We are already full in our cur- From Jan. 18 to 21, the German capital will Bright has established itself as a consistent rent venue, and this year we will be filling extra space as the col- host a dozen trade fairs, plus Mercedes-Benz showplace for the boardsport, sneaker and re- lections available have increased.” Fashion Week Berlin with some 50 runway lated fashion scene in the former Stasi head- Karen Radley from Scoop, a showcase for contemporary in- shows and presentations. Then there’s WOW, the quarters, while Projekt Galerie Showroom ternational fashion that takes place at the Saatchi Gallery in new intimate apparel trade show that will kick is moving to a new permanent home base on London, said the show saw a 39 percent rise in visitors, with ex- off the season for a three-day run on Jan. 15. Brunnenstrasse, where it will present a tighter hibitor numbers also growing. “Everyone is interested in being in Berlin,” selection of about 20 progressive and avant- “In February we had 70 exhibitors, last season there were said Verena Malta, organizer of Show & Order, garde collections. Conversely, the second Berlin 130,” she said, adding that Scoop would maintain its approach, another new sales platform bowing this season edition of Capsule is growing to 75 from 45 curating its show around a German art installation called with about 150 international upper-end fashion men’s and women’s contemporary brands. With “Gesamtkunstwerk,” which in German means a work that com- brands, many not yet represented in Germany. the Paris shows on the heels of Berlin, Capsule bines many art forms Germany has emerged as an attractively sta- is chartering a plane to Paris as a special ser- — KATYA FOREMAN, PARIS; CYNTHIA MARTENS, MILAN, ble market amid euro zone jitters. Consumers’ vice for their Berlin exhibitors. AND TINA BARAGA, LONDON willingness to buy remains high, according to In Fashion Berlin, the trade fair for fash- recent GfK surveys, and though unseasonably ion and accessories organized by In Fashion cold summer and now warm fall weather has Munich, will also be back for its second Berlin eaten into first-half sales gains of 4 percent, the run, while Düsseldorf ’s fair organization, the nation’s retailers are still looking forward to a Igedo Co., will be premiering The Gallery, its good Christmas season and a positive year-end new format for design-oriented collections and balance. Many merchants have also worked accessories at Berlin’s Café Moscow. hard to differentiate their assortments, sug- gesting new oppor- Premium tunities to be had in in Berlin. Europe’s largest market. Germany’s apparel manufacturers also en- joyed a 13 to 14 percent upswing in the first half, reported Thomas Rash, director of the German Fashion Federation. While those increases have receded in recent months, he expects the industry to close 2011 “with quite a nice plus. The mood is very good.” Booked to capacity with about 600 exhibi- tors, Bread & Butter has nonetheless eked out a bit of extra space for three new concepts this season. D.O.C.K. — Department of Contemporary Keynotes — is being introduced in Sport & Street, re- flecting the sector’s more grown-up and dressed-up vibe. It will be housed in a contain- er village abutting the Sport & Street hall and is expected to grow fur- ther next summer. L.O.C.K. — Labels of Common Kin — the suc- cessful showcase for what B&B president Karl-Heinz Müller terms manufacturing heritage brands, will be expand- L.O.C.K at Bread ed with an additional, and Butter. 6,500-square-foot com- Bubble in London. mon showroom in the airport’s Fire Station behind the L.O.C.K. area. A trio of shows will serve the green fashion Then, B&B is putting the former airport gates community: the salonlike Green Showroom Italy’s White trade show. and their 21,500 square feet into action as the in the Adlon Hotel; Ethical Fashion, with its Treasury for the “whole accessories and gadgets focus on sustainable urban and streetwear col- sector,” said Müller. “It’s become such an impor- lections, and the fashion and lifestyle oriented tant sector at retail.” Thekey.to, back after a season’s break. Premium is also full, and Seek is getting a Beyond Berlin, “everything points to separate new home next to the station. growth,” said the organizers of Ispo, the lead- “The Seekers are a new school of style, a ing active sportswear fair in Munich. More than worldwide community that does its own thing 2,200 exhibitors will be on hand at the Jan. 29 to and lives and loves their products,” explained Feb. 1 edition. Premium co-founded Anita Tillman. It’s the end of an era, however, for CPD, as Seek participants now number 60 compared CPD Signatures will be held for the last time to 35 last July. Premium’s overall assortment en- at the Düsseldorf fairgrounds in February. The compasses about 1,000 brands. Gallery Düsseldorf is slated to replace it off-site The new Premium F95 store, at the entry to next summer. the Station, will also be used as a special style Düsseldorf and Munich, however, each re- window, spotlighting new brands such as BLK main important order-writing venues for the DNM by Johan Lindeberg, twice daily. German and neighboring markets, with numer- On the whole, Tillman said, “We are trying ous events such as Premium Order Düsseldorf little by little to get more premium each season. and Munich or Supreme growing in scope. MILANO UNICA PHOTO BY ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA MILANO UNICA PHOTO BY 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Asian Fairs Battle Adversity was held on the Friday of RoomsLink On Nov. 1, the Chinese government By KELLY WETHERILLE and and about 140 stores participated. released data showing that nation- KATHLEEN E. MCLAUGHLIN Matsui said he plans on continuing wide, general manufacturing output this initiative twice a year, during had slowed to its lowest level since two TWO OF ASIA’S main hubs of trade RoomsLink and Japan Fashion Week. years ago, when the industry was fight- show activity — Japan and China — are Matsui also noted that while he ex- ing to cope with the world financial cri- battling back from their own special pects about the same number of ex- sis. Anecdotally, producers have said adversities and looking at a strong six hibitors and attendees for the next the slowdown affects the garment and months of fairs and exhibitions ahead. RoomsLink, scheduled for March 20 to textile industries, typically lower-cost While the devastation dealt by the 24, he hopes that eventually about half production, to an even greater degree. massive March 11 earthquake and tsu- of the participating brands will be from To cope with the current slump in both nami in Japan is still fresh in people’s outside of Japan. production and global demand, some minds, organizers of trade shows are “Of course I want more [interna- trade shows are planning to focus their seeing their efforts to lure back buyers tional buyers] to come than last time,” attention on higher-end products and beginning to pay off. And despite on- he said. “I think it’s difficult to rapidly value-added goods. going problems with a nuclear power increase the numbers of buyers from That’s true for the Shanghai plant in the northeastern region of America and Europe because of the International Clothing and Textile Tohoku, even international retailers distance [they would need to travel], Expo 2012, set for March 13 to 15, have resumed sending representatives but I’d like to further increase the where organizers are looking to up the to fairs in Japan. number of Asian buyers.” ante for potential visitors and buyers. RoomsLink, a trade show that gen- The JFW International Fashion Fair “We’re actually seeing greater inter- erally runs concurrently with Japan that was held in July saw a slight drop est because the Expo now focuses on Fashion Week, was last held in October. in numbers from its January install- branded products of a higher class, in- It exceeded organizers’ expectations ment. The event attracted 24,175 visi- stead of simple clothing and textiles,” with more than 120 brands participating tors, including 330 from outside Japan, said the fair’s Noel Tian. and more than 9,000 attendees. Of these, down from 26,605 in January, with 380 A trend area at Interstoff. “The market is becoming more frag- 29 brands were from outside of Japan international visitors. About 700 com- and 3,000 visitors were buyers. Organizer panies participated in the exhibition. Tomonori Matsui declined to give a fig- “A typhoon hit [during the fair] in ure for the number of international re- July, which caused an unexpected de- tailers represented, but said the event crease in attendees,” said Naoya Jita, attracted buyers from other Asian coun- one of the event’s organizers. “There tries, such as China and South Korea. was also the accident at the nuclear “There were twice as many exhibi- power plant, which affected numbers tors as last time [held in April], includ- of international visitors.” ing international brands from coun- Jita said he expects around the tries like Angola and South Korea, same number of companies to exhibit which were exhibiting for the first during the next installment of JFW- time,” Matsui said. “We didn’t feel any IFF, which will be held Jan. 25 to 27 effects from the earthquake.” at Tokyo Big Sight. He is also expect- In October, organizers of RoomsLink ing attendance to be up to about 27,000, also concurrently held a Fashion’s with roughly 400 visitors coming from Night Out-style shopping event, in outside Japan. an effort to involve not only retailers, “The mood has changed consider- but also consumers. Dubbed Shibuya ably and is now back to where it was Fashion Festival, the inaugural event last year,” Jita said, referring to inter- A busy booth at Plug-In Japan.

national buyers’ reactions to the situa- mented and fast-paced, with new de- tion at the nuclear power plant. signs coming out constantly,” Tian said. The January JFW-IFF will also fol- “We have to adapt. Exporting is no lon- low a slightly different format, with ger our main goal, with all the economic added events and parties aimed at in- woes in countries around the world. We creasing communication between buy- pay more attention to domestic market.” ers and brands in an enjoyable setting. A spokeswoman for Interstoff said On the textile front, Japan Creation attendance at the company’s shows has will only be held yearly starting in been stable in recent years and she 2012, but Premium Textile Japan, a expects that trend to continue. The or- smaller, more business-focused fair, ganization is working with media part- will take place twice a year. ners to spread its message, and also de- In China, despite the increasingly veloping new partnerships with design choppy waters for its manufacturing schools to showcase the best student sector, textile and apparel trade show work and innovation. Creativity and managers are expecting somewhat new concepts could give vendors and smooth sailing coming up this winter trade shows an edge over the competi- and spring. tion amid the current climate. The late winter-early spring tex- In Hong Kong, show organizers say tile and apparel trade fair calendar is their traffic has actually increased in packed with events, and organizers say recent months and they expect healthy they expect vendors and buyers to turn turnout at winter and spring trade fairs. up in steady numbers, with no major Hong Kong shows tend to attract a more declines in attendance on either side mature, perhaps loyal audience of of the tables. Their attitude remains vendors and clients, so those who visit sunny in spite of an ongoing decline in know what they’re looking for and aren’t Chinese apparel and textile manufac- likely to fade away because of economic turing amid the global financial slump. problems in China manufacturing. Across China’s manufacturing hubs “People who go to the China shows in the Pearl River Delta and Zhejiang and Hong Kong shows are different,” province, tighter credit has combined said Mavis Ng, visitor services coordi- with dwindling orders to drive many nator for China Sourcing Fairs. “Our smaller factories out of business in turnout continues to be very strong.” key areas. Meanwhile larger compa- Among the major events coming up nies and state-owned enterprises are in the first half of the year are Hong emerging as reinvigorated forces in the Kong Fashion Week, Jan. 16 to 19; industry. Overall, the situation has led Interstoff Asia Essential, March 14 to to less production and tension over the 16, and the China Sourcing Fair, April On the runway at Interstoff. next steps. 27 to 30. INTERSTOFF PHOTOS BY ALEX LEE INTERSTOFF PHOTOS BY 2WINTER1-24/ SESSION 01/2012 3SUMMER0/06- SESSION 03/07/ 2012

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10 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Brazil Economy Boosts Brands

By MICHAEL KEPP The Couromoda trade fair.

RIO DE JANEIRO — Some fashion weeks scheduled for the first half of 2012 in Brazil promise changes in their size and location, but all expect purchasing to be strong in the thriving Brazilian economy, organiz- ers said. São Paulo Fashion Week, which features up-mar- ket, fashion-forward, winter 2012 collections, will again be held from Jan. 19 to 24 at the 300,000-square- foot Bienal Cultural Center in Ibirapuera Park, its venue for many years. The upcoming SPFW will fea- ture 40 designers and is expected to draw 80,000 at- tendees and around 50 foreign buyers. Typically, business during SPFW — at independent, off-site salons, showrooms of SPFW designers and presentations in various locales — brings in around 1.5 billion reais, or about $855 million at current ex- change. Purchasing volumes during the January SPFW are expected to reach this level in this still-strong economy, said Graça Cabral, a director with Grupo Luminosidade, which organizes SPFW and Fashion Rio, Brazil’s second-largest fashion week. Alessandra Ribeiro, an economist with the São Paulo-based Tendências Consultoria, a political- economic consulting firm, said, “Consumer spending is expected to be 4.2 percent in 2011 and a growing Brazilian middle class with more purchasing power tends to buy fashion, among other things, because it is a sign of status. This is why the Brazilian fashion visitors and 30 foreign buyers to its Jan. 10 to 14 edi- The event will no longer take place in four to five market is growing and should continue to grow in tion. The event will be held inside three remodeled large tents at the Marina da Gloria, where yachts dock, 2012, as consumer spending remains stable.” warehouses in some 278,000 square feet of space at and where a new convention center is being built. the Mauá Pier. Organizers have a new address picked, but can’t an- Rio-à-Porter, Fashion Rio’s buy- nounce the location until they sign a leasing contract. ers’ salon, will be moved from two Fashion Business is inviting 1,000 national buyers other remodeled Mauá Pier ware- for the next event, but no foreign buyers, a practice house locations to an off-site loca- stopped in 2009, when the global economic crisis began tion that is still being negotiated. and as the fair began to gear itself exclusively for the The new Rio-à-Porter space will domestic market. This January’s event hopes to take in be considerably smaller than the 15 to 20 percent more than the 690 million reais, or $413 126,000-square-foot space at Mauá million, that it registered last year, organizers said. Pier warehouses and will house “Our expected increase in sales is due to a grow- fewer exhibitors than the 160 fea- ing economy which is, in particular, causing the open- tured at the salon’s former location. ing of more multibrand stores,” organizers said. “At the January 2012 edition of At all of these upcoming fashion fairs, foreigners Rio-à-Porter, we plan to try out a will find fashion prices high, but not pricier than at smaller and more intimate format the last January editions. That’s because, while the where we will invite better-known, dollar and euro have been stable against the real, the mostly Rio labels, to exhibit in a local currency, since those editions, it is still overval- smaller space,” said fair organizer ued against the dollar and euro, said Cabral. Cabral. “Reducing the number of São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter, an annual mass mar- exhibitors by not inviting lesser- ket apparel fair now in its second year, will take known ones means, however, that place Jan. 15 to 18 at the Expo Center Norte, a Rio-à-Porter sales will, in January, 215,00-square-foot pavilion in São Paulo. This fair

PHOTO BY DAVID SILVERMAN/GETTY IMAGES SILVERMAN/GETTY DAVID PHOTO BY be lower than in the past.” has replaced Fenit, a mass market apparel fair, which In January 2011, Rio-à-Porter was discontinued in 2009. Consumer spending has been strong in Brazil. registered 610 million reais, or The apparel fair, featuring commercial clothing Ribeiro said new estimates show that Brazil’s $364 million, in domestic sales and $22 million in for- for men and women, is expected to attract 500 exhibi- gross domestic product should grow more than 3 per- eign sales. tors and 20,000 attendees, mainly domestic buyers, cent in 2011 and 2012, and consumer spending would Fashion Business, a Rio de Janeiro buyers’ salon organizers said. be 4.2 percent in 2011 and remain stable in 2012. run by Dupla Assessoria and Escala Eventos, which The Couromoda, the annual footwear fair, will be The biannual Fashion Rio, which offers more af- are event organizers, will feature 250 exhibitors from held at Saõ Paulo’s 861,000-square-foot Anhembi Park fordable, mainstream apparel than SPFW, will fea- Jan. 10 to 13. It is expected to attract 60,000 visitors, pavilion, Jan. 16 to 19, and feature 1,100 exhibitors ture 30 designers and is expected to attract 70,000 mainly domestic buyers. and 70,000 attendees, mainly domestic buyers.

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12 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Trade Pacts Hold Export Potential

South Korea when its bilateral trade By KRISTI ELLIS deal takes effect. Ferragamo in Moscow. A third new market being watched WASHINGTON — Retailers, apparel by the global industry is Russia, which brands and textile producers around recently completed its 18-year bid to the world are counting on a handful of join the World Trade Organization and new regional and bilateral trade agree- is expected to formally join the organi- ments to lower trade barriers and sig- zation next month. nificantly expand global markets, par- Russia’s accession to the WTO ticularly in the Asia-Pacific region, in is expected to help boost retail in- the next few years. vestment, especially on the part of The biggest potential region for European luxury brands and stores, exports and retail investment is the which already have a big presence in Asia-Pacific. Nine countries, including the country. U.S. apparel brands also the U.S., are currently negotiating a re- see the Russian market as having big gional trade pact known as the Trans- export potential. Pacific Partnership, which, if realized Lowering trade barriers in Russia and enacted, would represent the larg- provides a strong market opening est trading bloc for opportunity for the U.S. such European Japan, Canada BY THE NUMBERS: The Trans- luxury compa- and Mexico said this Pacific Partnership countries’ nies as Salvatore weekend they plan apparel and textile exports in Ferragamo, which to begin consulta- 2010. By comparison, China, currently has seven tions to join the ne- which is not part of the TPP talks stores in Russia, and gotiations, which but is the largest apparel and such U.S. companies would bring the total textile exporter, exported $199 as the Estée Lauder number of countries billion worth of goods last year. Cos. Inc., which has to 10 and add an seen sales grow in enormous consumer U.S.: $23.6 billion the double digits in market and export Vietnam: $13.4 billion Russia, according potential to the mix. Japan (not yet an official negotiat- to Cedric Prouvé, The TPP nego- ing partner): $8.6 billion group president, in- tiations currently Australia: $3.4 billion ternational for the encompass nine Malaysia: $2.7 billion company. countries: the U.S., Singapore: $1.9 billion In the landscape Vietnam, Singapore, Peru: $1.5 billion of international ap- Australia, Peru, New Zealand: $903.4 million parel and textile Brunei, New Chile: $149.7 million trade, China, the Zealand, Chile and Brunei: N/A top apparel and tex- Malaysia. The ulti- tile exporter in the mate objective of ne- SOURCE: GLOBAL TRADE INFORMATION SERVICES world, looms large gotiators is to bring and is expected to in all 21 member maintain its posi- economies of APEC tion in the coming into the regional trade bloc, which years but with less share. would bring down barriers in China, But rising labor, raw material and Russia and Thailand, among others, if transportation costs in China have ever realized. begun to slowly erode some of its im- “Two of the biggest things for the port share as companies shift produc- TPP are Japan joining, followed by tion to other low-cost countries, such South Korea [potentially] joining,” as Vietnam, to offset the escalating said Gary Hufbauer, senior fellow at prices. In addition, the global trade the Peterson Institute for International community is wary of tension between Economics. “That would open up those China and the U.S. over China’s cur- markets to countries in Asia that don’t rency policies, which the U.S. argues is have free trade agreements with Japan undervalued and puts American firms or South Korea.” at a competitive disadvantage. The South Korea recently opened up its friction heated up last month after the IGOR RODIN/GETTY IMAGES FOR FERRAGAMO PHOTO BY market to European Union companies Senate passed a bill that could lead to with the enactment of a bilateral free punitive tariffs on Chinese imports. lion SME for the year-to-date through is a great interest in the TPP.” trade agreement, and the U.S. is set to The measure has stalled in the House. Sept. 30 compared with a year ear- U.S. importers have their sights take advantage of new market open- China’s apparel and textile imports lier, according to the latest Commerce set on Vietnam (already the second- ings and export opportunities with to the U.S. fell 2.4 percent to 19 bil- Department data. During the same largest apparel supplier to the U.S.) in period, combined textile and apparel the TPP negotiations, because it could imports from Vietnam to the U.S. rose receive duty free benefits and make 12.2 percent to 2.3 billion SME. apparel shipments to the U.S. cheap- “I think from a sourcing perspec- er. But the U.S. has proposed a yarn- tive, there is almost desperation in try- forward rule of origin, which requires ing to move production out of China,” that apparel be made of fabric and said Nate Herman, vice president of yarns supplied by the U.S or other TPP international trade at the American partner countries to qualify for duty- Apparel & Footwear Association. free benefits when shipped back to the “There is no question China will re- U.S. Importers have stressed that the main a dominant supplier of apparel rule of origin for textiles and apparel to the U.S. market for many years to must be flexible enough to allow them come. The question is how much of to use third-country fabric and yarns that production currently in China can in apparel production. U.S. textile pro- move out over the next 10 years. Right ducers are vigorously opposed to a lib- now China controls 40 to 45 percent of eral rule of origin. the U.S. import market, and there will “If the rules are favorable, it is a be an effort to reduce that to 25 to 30 great opportunity for U.S. brands to percent in the next 10 years.” use the regional market as a sourcing Stephanie Lester, vice president platform where you can make apparel USTR Ron Kirk discusses the of international trade at the Retail in Malaysia or Vietnam and then sup- Trans-Pacific Partnership Industry Leaders Association, said, ply U.S.-branded products to markets with trade ministers. “Companies are absolutely looking for in Australia, New Zealand, Singapore alternatives to China. That’s why there and Japan, if it joins,” Herman added. 13 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Köpenicker Strasse 59-70, Berlin. E-mail: [email protected]. Karl-Marx Allee 34, Berlin. Contact: Contact: Kraaft GmbH. Web: premiumexhibitions.com. Igedo Co. Tel.: +49-21-143-9601. Tel.: +49-30-3464-99210. 18-20, Seek, Kühlhaus, Luckenwalder Fax: +49-21-1439-6345. Web: igedo.com. Fax: +49-30-8956-6364. Strasse 3, Berlin. Contact: Seek 18-20, Projekt Galerie Showroom, E-mail: [email protected]. at Premium Exhibitions GmbH. Brunnen154, Brunnenstrasse 154, Web: showandorder.de. Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511. E-mail: Berlin. Contact: Projekt Galerie. 18-19, Tissu Premier, Lille Grand Palais, [email protected]. Web: Tel.: +49-30-6040-5703. Calendar Lille, France. Contact: Frédéric Pellerin. seekexhibitions.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Listings are accurate as of press time, but attendees Tel.: +33-1-40-22-63-19. 18-20, Greenshowroom, Hotel Adlon, Web: projektgalerie.net. are encouraged to confirm dates and locations. E-mail: [email protected]. Unter den Linden 77, Berlin. Contact: 18-20, In Fashion Berlin, Radialsystem JANUARY or +852-2240-4061. Web: tissu-premier.com. Messe Frankfurt GmbH. V, Holzmarktstrasse 33, Berlin. 6-8, Canada’s Bridal Show, Metro Fax: +852-2824-0026. 18-20, Bread & Butter Berlin, Airport Tel.: +49-711-7616-0866. Contact: In Fashion Munich. Toronto Convention Center, Toronto. E-mail: [email protected]. Berlin-Tempelhof, Platz der Luftbrücke 5, E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +49-89-1270-0700. Tel.: 905-264-7000. Fax: 905-264-7300. Web: hktdc.com./fair/hkfashionweekfw-en. Berlin. Contact: Bread & Butter GmbH. Web: green-showroom.net. Fax: +49-89-2020-4446. E-mail: [email protected]. 16-19, Couromoda Parque Anhembi, Tel.: +49-30-200-0370. 18-20, Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, Web: in-fashion-munich.de. Web: canadasbridalshow.com. Pavilião de Exposições do Anhembi, Web: breadandbutter.com. Ewerk, Wilhelmstrasse 43, Berlin. 18-21, Mercedes-Benz Fashion 10-13, Pitti Uomo, Fortezza da Basso, Rua Olavo Fontoura 1209, São Paulo, 18-20, Premium and Premium Men, Contact: Messe Frankfurt GmbH. Week Berlin, Strasse des 17, Juni viale F. Strozzi 1, Florence. Contact: Brazil. Organizer/press office of Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Tel.: +49-69-7575-6363. E-mail: at Brandenburg Gate, Berlin. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. Couromoda. Tel.: +55-11-3897-6100. Strasse 4-6, Berlin. Contact: Premium [email protected]. IMG, Invalidenstrasse 35, Berlin. E-mail: [email protected] Web: couromoda.com.br. Exhibitions GmbH. Web: ethicalfashionshowberlin.com. Tel.: +49-30-8892-2890. or [email protected]. 17-20, Show & Order, Kraftwerk, Tel.: +49-30- 629-0850. 18-20, The Gallery Berlin, Moskau, Web: mbfashionweek.com. Web: pittimmagine.com. 10-13, Pitti W, Dogana, via Valfonda 25, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. 10-13, Rio-à-Porter. Contact: Luminosidade. Tel.: +55-11-3077-4877. Office of Monica Mendes Assessoria (for international press). Tel.: +55-11-3666-8437. Web: ffw.com.br/rio-a-porter. 10-13, Fashion Business. Contact: Dupla Assessoria. Tel.:+55-21-3239-5500. Office of Mediação (for international press). Tel.: +55-21-2552-0409. Web: fashionbusiness.com.br. 10-14, Fashion Rio, Mauá Pier, Avenida Rodrigues Alves, Rio de Janeiro. Contact: Luminosidade.

Tel.: +55-11-3077-4877. © Olivier Roller Office of Monica Mendes Assessoria (for international press). Tel.: +55-11-3666-8437. Web: ffw.com.br/fashionrio. 11-14, International Jewelry Tokyo, Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: ijt.jp/en. 14-16, White Homme, via Tortona 27–via Tortona 54, Milan. Contact: White Milano. Tel: +39-02-3459-2785. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: whiteshow.it. 14-18, Milano Moda Uomo, Milan. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Tel.: +39-02-777-1081. Fax: +39-02-7771-0850-62. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cameramoda.it. 14-19, Vicenzaoro First, via dell’Oreficeria 16, Vicenza. Contact: Vicenza Fiera. Tel.: +39-04-4496-9920. E-mail: info@vicenzafiera.it. Web: vicenzaoro.org. 15-17, Wow Berlin, Hotel Berlin, Lützowplatz 17, Berlin. Contact: Muveo GmbH. Tel.: +49-69-630-0920. Fax: +49-69-6300-9229. Web: wow-berlin.de. 15-17, Top Drawer, Earls Court One, Warwick Road, London. Contact: Raj Gill at Clarion Events. Tel.: +44-020-7370-8929. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: topdrawer.co.uk. 15-17, NSIA Snow Show, Place Bonaventure, Montreal. Contact: Anna Di Meglio. Tel.: 514-939-7370, ext. 220. Fax: 514-939-7371. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: nsia.ca. 15-18, São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter, Rua José Bernardo Pinto, 333 Vila Guilherme, São Paulo, Brazil. Organizer/press office of São Paulo Prêt-à-Porter. Tel.: +55-11-3897-6100. Web: saopaulopretaporter.com. 14-16 Feb. 2012 / spring summer 13 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ 16-19, Hong Kong Fashion Week Fall- Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France / T. 1 [646] 351-1942 / [email protected] Winter, Hong Kong Convention and www.premierevision.com Exhibition Center, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Contact: Beatrice Lee or Lily Kwong. Tel.: +852-2240-4323 14 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS 21-23, Capsule, Rue de Turenne, Paris. Tel.: 212-206-8310. Contact: BPMW Agency. 18-21, TheKey.to, Kindl Brauerei, Werbellinstrasse 50, E-mail: [email protected]. Berlin. Contact: TheKey.to. Tel.: +49-30-688-5086. Web: capsuleshow.com. Fax: +49-30+687-0617. Web: thekey.to. 21-23, Le Salon Interfilière, Pavillon 1, Porte de 18-22, Men’s Fashion Collections, Paris. Contact: Versailles, Paris. Contact: Elisabeth Delaigle. Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à- Tel.: +33-1-45-78-11-74. Fax: +33-1-47-56-32-99. Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +33-1-42-66-64-44. Fax: +33-1-42-66-94-63. Web: interfiliere.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. 21-23, Salon International de la Lingerie, Pavillon 1, 19-20, Capsule, Old Mint Berlin, Am Krögel 2, Porte de Versailles, Paris. Contact: Virginie Gondoui. Berlin. Contact: BPMW. Tel.: 212-206-8310. Tel.: +33-1-55-34-37-66. Fax: +33-1-47-56-32-99. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: capsuleshow.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 19-21, Bright, Stasi Headquarters, House 18, Web: lingerie-paris.com. Normannenstrasse 19, Berlin. Contact: Bright GmbH. 21-24, Who’s Next, 1 Place de la Porte de Tel.: +49-69-6696-2157. Fax: +49-69-9760-9482. Versailles, Paris. Contact: Elodie Lavesvre. Web: brighttradeshow.com. Tel.: +33-1-42-93-54-17. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-84. Premium will be held Jan. 18 to 20. 19-21, Pitti Bimbo, Fortezza da Basso, viale F. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: whosnext.com. Strozzi 1, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. 22-23, Modefabriek, Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein Tel.: +39-05-536-931. E-mail: mailing@ 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam. Contact: Modefabriek BV. 27-29, The Brandery, Fira Barcelona-Montjuïc 7-9, Milano Unica, Fieramilanocity, Porta pittimmagine.com or [email protected]. Tel.: +31-20-442-1960. Fax: +31-20-442-1961. fairgrounds, Barcelona. Scarampo – Porta Teodorico, viale Scarampo, Milan. Web: pittimmagine.com. Web: modefabriek.nl. Contact: Estermaria Laruccia, sales director. Contact: Milano Unica. Tel: +39-02-6610-1105. 19-24, São Paulo Fashion Week, Fundação Bienal 23-26, Paris Haute Couture Collections, Paris. Tel.: 34-90-223-3200. Fax: +34-93-233-3435. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: milanounica.it. São Paulo Avenue, Pedro Alvares Cabral, Parque Contact: Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt- E-mail: emlaruccia@firabcn.es. Web: thebrandery.com. 8-10, Intertex, Palazzo delle Stelline, corso Magenta Ibirapuera, São Paulo, Brazil. Contact: Luminosidade. à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. 28-31, AltaRomAltaModa, Rome. 61, Milan. Contact: T.D.F. Tel.: +39-02-4801-5026. Tel.: +55-11-3077-4877. Office of Monica Tel.: +33-1-42-66-64-44. Fax: +33-1-42-66-94-63. Contact: Alta Roma. Tel.: +39 06-678-1313. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: intertex-milano.it. Mendes Assessoria (for international press). E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: altaroma.it. 8-10, Ready to Show, Palazzo delle Stelline, Tel.: +55-11-3666-8437. Web: ffw.com.br/spfw. 25-27, Pitti Filati, Fortezza da Basso, 29-30, Bubble, Business Design Centre, 52 Upper corso Magenta 61, Milan. Contact: T.D.F. 20-22, Tranoï Homme, Palais de la Bourse, Paris. viale F. Strozzi 1, Florence. Contact: Street, Islington, London, N1 0QH, Contact: Tel.: +39-02-4801-5026. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Christophe Contentin. Pitti Immagine. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. Lindsay Hoyes. Tel.: +44-014-8484-6069. Web: readytoshow.it. Tel.: +33-1-53-01-84-96. Fax: +33-1-42-71-07-03. E-mail: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected]. 8-10, Tokyo International Gift Show, E-mail: [email protected] [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. Web: bubblelondon.com. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. or [email protected]. Web: tranoi.com. 25-27, JFW International Fashion Fair, 29-31, Mode Accessories Show, Double Tree E-mail: [email protected]. 20-22, Total Wedding Show, International Center, Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. by Hilton, Toronto. Contact: Alice Chee. Web: giftshow.co.jp/english. Toronto. Tel.: 905-845-2644. Fax: 905-845-8050. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: senken-ex.com./iff_en. Tel.: 416-510-0114. Fax: 416-510-0165. 9-11, CPI Collection Premiere Istanbul, E-mail: [email protected]. 25-28, 080 Barcelona Fashion, Barrio Gotico, E-mail: [email protected]. CNR Expo Center, Yesilkoy, Istanbul. Contact: Igedo Web: totalweddingshow.com. Barcelona. Contact: Marta Coca. Web: mode-accessories.com. Company GmbH. Tel.: +49-21-143-9601. 20-23, Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca, Paris Expo Porte Tel.: +34-93-551-5452. Fax: +34-93-484-9688. 29-Feb. 1, ISPO, New Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich. Fax: +49-21-1439-6345. Web: igedo.com. de Versailles, Paris. Contact: Christine DeLattre. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Messe München. Tel.: +49-89-9491-1388. 10-13, Inhorgenta, New Munich Trade Fair Center, Tel.: +33-1-41-41-07-54. Mobile: +33-6-60-70-21-72. Web: 080barcelonafashion.com. Fax: +49-89- 9491-1389. Web: ispo.com. Munich. Contact: Inhorgenta. Tel.: +49-89-9491-1398. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: bijorhca.com. 26-29, Macef, Fieramilanocity, 31-Feb. 2, Munich Fabric Start, Lilienthalallee Fax: +49-89-9491-1399. Web: inhorgenta.com. 20-24, Maison & Objet, Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris. Strada Statale del Sempione 28, Rho, Milan. 40 and 29, Munich. Contact: Munichfabricstart. 12-13, Margin London, The Music Room, 26 Contact: SAFI/SESMP: Tel.: +33-1-44-29-02-00. Contact: Macef Milano. Tel.: +39-02-49-971. Tel.: +49-89-452-2470. Fax: +49-89-4522-4722. South Molton Lane, London. Contact: Odysseus Fax: +33-1-44-29-02-01. E-mail: info@safisalons.fr. E-mail: [email protected] or Web: munichfabricstart.com. Constantine. Tel.: +44-077-1033-0805. Web: maison-objet.com. macef@fieramilano.it. Web: macef.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: margin.tv. FEBRUARY 12-14, Pure London, Grand Hall, Olympia, 1-5, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, Juan Carlos I Kensington, London. Contact: Emap Connect. fairgrounds, Madrid. Contact: IFEMA Tel.: +44-207-728-3512. Web: purelondon.com. (Leonor Pérez Pita). Tel.: +34-91-722-5083. 12-14, Stitch, Business Design Centre, 52 Upper Fax: +34-91-722-5164. Street, Islington London, N1 0QH, Contact: E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cibeles.ifema.es. Emma Fearman. Tel.: +44-020-7728-3512. 2-4, SIMM, Madrid International Fashion Fair, E-mail: [email protected]. Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, Madrid. Contact: IFEMA Web: stitchmenswear.com. (Francesco Malatesta). Tel.: +34-91-722-3000. 12-14, Scoop, Saatchi Gallery, Duke of Fax: +34-91-722-5787. E-mail: [email protected]. York’s HQ, King’s Road, London, SW3 4RY. Web: semanamoda.ifema.es. Contact: Karen Radley. Tel.: +44-020- 7289-9399. 2-4, CPH Vision, Oksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, E-mail: [email protected]. Copenhagen. Contact: Exhibition Professionals. Web: scoop-international.com. Tel.: +45-39-648 586. Fax: +45-39-648-587. 12-14, Fashion Exposed, Sydney Convention Web: cphvision.com. & Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney. 2-4, Terminal 2, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen. Contact: Australian Exhibitions & Conferences. Contact: Exhibition Professionals. Tel.: +61-38-672-1200. Web: aec.net.au Tel.: +45-39-648-586. Fax: +45-39-648-587. or fashionexposed.com. Web: cphvision.com. 12-14, The Leather Bags & Accessories Fair, Sydney 2-5, Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, Bella Convention & Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour, Center, Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen. Sydney. Contact: Australian Exhibitions & Conferences. Contact: Bella Center. Tel.: +45-32-528-811. Tel.: +61-38-672-1200. Web: lbafair.com. Fax: +45-32-519-951. Web: ciff.dk. 13-16, Texworld, Paris Le Bourget Exhibition Center, 3-5, Immagine Italia & Co., Fortezza da France. Contact: Messe Frankfurt France SAS. Basso, viale F. Strozzi 1, Florence. Contact: Tel.: +33-1-55-26-89-89. Fax: +33-1-40-35-09-00. Immagine Italia & Co. Tel.: +39-05-7399-1483. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: interstoff.com. Web: immagineitalia.org. 14-16, Première Vision, Parc d’Expositions, Paris-Nord 4-6, CPD Signatures, Exhibition Center, Düsseldorf. Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Christiane de Claviere. Contact: Igedo Co. Tel.: +49-21-143-9601. Tel.: +33-4-72-60-65-00. Fax: +33-4-72-60-65-09. Fax: +49-21-1439-6345. Web: igedo.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 4-7, Premium Order Düsseldorf, Alte Papierfabrik, Web: premierevision.com. Fringsstrasse 16-19, Düsseldorf. Premium 14-16, Zoom by Fatex, Parc d’Expositions, Exhibitions GmbH. Tel.: +49-30- 6290-8578. Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Frédéric Web: premiumexhibitions.com. Pellerin. Tel.: +33-6-81-67-80-91. E-mail: 4-7, Supreme by Munichfashion.com, [email protected]. Web: zoombyfatex.com. Bennigsen Platz, Kennedydamm 24, Düsseldorf. 14-16, Le Cuir a Paris, Hall 4, Parc d’Expositions, Contact: Munichfashion-com.pany. Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Erica Caron. Tel.: +49-81-06-994-0330. Fax: +49-81-06-994-0337. Tel.: +33-1-43-59-89-44. Fax: +33-1-43-59-30-02. Web: munichfashioncompany.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: lecuiraparis.com. 5-7, Londonedge and Londoncentral, National Hall 14-16, Paris Indigo Mode, Hall 5, Parc Olympia, Hammersmith Road, London, W14 8UX. d’Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Contact: Jackie Farr. Tel.: +44-01-16-289-8249. Stephanie Binoist. Tel.: +33-1-70-38-70-12. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: +33-1-70-38-70-11. E-mail: Web: londonedge.com. [email protected]. Web: indigo-salon.com. 5-7, Can-Am Western Apparel Trade Show, 14-16, Expofil, Parc d’Expositions, Paris-Nord Spruce Meadows Equiplex, Calgary, Canada. Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Marie-Odile Verrier. Tel: 403-995-1003. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +33-1-70-38-70-00. Fax: +33-1-70-38-70-01. Web: canammarket.ca. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: expofil.com. 7-8, Anteprima, Fieramilanocity, 14-16, ModAmont, Hall 3, Parc d’Expositions, Gate 3 Colleoni, via Colleoni 20, Milan. Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Contact: Anteprima. Tel.: +39-02-880-7711. Aimeline Marsura. Tel.: +33-1-70-38-70-20. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: +33-1-70-38-70-21. Web: anteprima-fair.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modamont.com. WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2011 15 WWD.COM

14-16, Interstyle, Pacifico Yokohama, 1 Contact: Alejandra Campos Morales. MARCH Fax: 416-596-1808. E-mail: [email protected]. -1-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Japan. Tel.: +44-207-772-8406. 1-5, The 22nd East China Fair, Shanghai New Web: ontariofashionexhibitors.ca. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. International Expo Center, 2345 Longyang Road, 4-8, Mifur, Fieramilanocity, Milan. Web: interstyle.jp/english/english.html. Web: nationalweddingshow.co.uk. Pudong Shanghai, Shanghai. Contact: International Contact: Mifur. Tel.: +39-02-7600-3315. 15-18, China Wedding Expo 2012, 24-27, MI Milano Pret-à-Porter, Fieramilanocity, Trade Promotion Co. Tel.: +0086-21-6353-9977. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: mifur.com. Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Porta Teodorico, Milan. Contact: Fiera Milano. Web: ecf.gov.cn/en. 5-7, China Shanghai International Hosiery Center. Tel.: +86-21-6279-2828 or 6247-2387. Tel.: +39-02-4997-7939. 2-4, Tracht and Country, Salzburg fairgrounds, Salzburg, Purchasing Expo, Shanghai World Expo Fax: +86-21-6386-6972. E-mail: fieramilano@fieramilano.it. Austria. Contact: Reed Exhibitions Messe Salzburg. Exhibition & Convention Center, Shanghai. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: mimilanopretaporter.fieramilano.it. Tel.: +43-66-244-770. Fax: +43-66-2447-74809. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1978. Fax: +86-21-5445-1978. Web: chinaweddingexpo.com.cn. 25-27, Cloudnine, Padiglione Visconti, Web: reedexpo.at or hb.trachtsalzburg.at. E-mail: [email protected] or 17-21, London Fashion Week, Somerset House, The via Tortona 58, Milan. Contact: Pitti Immagine. 2-4, Ethical Fashion Show, Espace Pierre Cardin, 1-3 [email protected]. Web: chpe.com.cn/en. Strand, London. Contact: Camilla Scott-Bowden. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. E-mail: mailing@ Avenue Gabriel, Paris. Tel.: +33-1-55-26-89-89. 5-7, China Shanghai International Fashion Tel.: +44-020-7759-1977. pittimmagine.com or [email protected]. Fax:+33-1-40-35-09-00. E-mail: contact@ Production Exhibition, Shanghai World Expo E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. ethicalfashionshow.com. Web: ethicalfashionshow.com. Exhibition & Convention Center, Shanghai. Web: londonfashionweek.co.uk. 25-27, NeoZone and Touch, NHOW Hotel, via 2-5, Atmosphère’s d’Hiver, Jardin des Tuileries, Contact: Cindy Yu. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1970. 18-20, In Fashion Munich, Praterinsel, Praterinsel Tortona 35, Milan. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Terrasse des Feuillants, Paris. Contact: E-mail: [email protected]. Web: ctfe.com.cn/en. 3-4, Munich. Contact: In Fashion Munich. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. E-mail: mailing@ Frédérique Gerry. Tel: +33-1-40-13-74-74. 5-12, 11th China Shanghai Textiles, Fabrics & Tel.: +49-89-1270-0700. Fax: +49-89-2020-4446. pittimmagine.com or [email protected]. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-80. Accessories Exhibition, Shanghai World Expo Web: in-fashion-munich.de. Web: pittimmagine.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Exhibition & Convention Center, 1099 Guozhan 18-21, Premium Order Munich, Zenith Area, 25-27, White Beauty and White Donna, via Tortona 2-5, Paris Sur Mode Atelier, Jardin des Tuileries, Road, Shanghai. Contact: Cindy Yu. Mobile: Lilienthalallee 29, Munich. Contact: Premium 27 – via Tortona 54, Milan. Contact: White Milano. Terrasse des Feuillants, Paris. Contact: Sophie Guyot. +86-136-6188-3350. Tel.: +86-21-5445-1970. Exhibitions GmbH. Tel.: +49-30-6290-8578. Tel: +39-02-3459-2785. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: +33-1-40-13-74-74. Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-84. Fax: +86-21-5445-1218. E-mail: cindy. Web: premiumexhibitions.com. Web: whiteshow.it E-mail: [email protected]. [email protected]. Web: shssny.com./en. 18-21, Munichfashion.WoMen, MTC World of 25-29, Vintage Selection, Stazione Leopolda, Web: parissurmode.com. 6-8, Spinexpo, The Shanghai World Expo Exhibition Fashion, Ingolstädter Strasse 45, Munich. viale Fratelli Rosselli 5, Florence. Contact: 2-5, Tranoï Femme, Paris. Contact: Christophe Contentin. & Convention Center, Shanghai. Contact: Well Link Contact: Munichfashion.com.pany. Pitti Immagine. Tel.: +39-05-536-931. Tel.: +33-1-53-01-84-93. Fax: +33-1-42-71-07-03. Consultants Ltd. Tel.: +85-22-824-8581. Tel.: +49-810-6994-0330. Fax: +49-810-6994-0337. E-mail: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected]. Web: tranoi.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: munichfashioncompany.com. [email protected]. 2-5, Premiere Classe, Jardin des Tuileries Paris. Web: spinexpo.com./shanghai/index.php. 19-21, Moda, National Exhibition Center, Web: pittimmagine.com or stazione-leopolda.it. Contact: Elodie Lavesvre. Tel.: +33-1-77-12-20-20. 7-8, Filo, Palazzo delle Stelline, corso Magenta 61, Birmingham, England. Contact: Caroline 26-27, ABC Salon, MOC Center, Lilienthalallee 40, Fax: +33-1-40-13-74-80. E-mail: [email protected]. Milan. Contact: Filo. Tel.: +39-01-5848-3271. Mackinnon. Tel.: +44-014-8484-8313. Munich. Contact: Messe München. Web: premiere-classe.com. E-mail: info@filofair.com. Web: filo.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: moda-uk.co.uk. Tel.: +49-89-3235-3185. Fax: +49-89-3235-3197. 2-5, Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow. Contact: Studio XXb. 7-8, Textile Forum, The Music Room, 26 South 21-23, Rooms, Science Museum, 2-1 Kitanomaru-koen, Web: abc-salon.de. Tel.: +33-1-42-86-98-28. Fax: +33-1-42-86-98-27. Molton Lane, London. Contact: Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. 28-March 2, CPM Collection Premiere Moscow, Contact: Charles M. E-mail: [email protected]. Linda Laderman. Tel.: +44-020-7843-9496. Web: roomsroom.com. Expocenter Fairgrounds, Krasnopresenskaya Web: vendomeluxurytradeshow.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 21-23, Playtime Tokyo, Belle Salle Shibuya First, nab.,14, Moscow. Contact: Igedo Co. 2-5, Designers & Agents Paris, Espace 5 bis Web: textileforum.co.uk. 1-2-20 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. E-mail: Tel.: +49-211-439-601. Fax: +49-211-439-6345. Rue Froissart, Paris, 3rd. Tel. : 212-302-9575. 8-12, Trends the Apparel Show, Northlands [email protected]. Web: playtimetokyo.com. Web: igedo.com. Fax: 212-302-9576. E-mail: info@ Agricom, Edmonton. 22-28, Milano Moda Donna, Milan. Contact: 28-March 7, Women’s Ready-to-Wear fall 2012, designersandagents.com. Web: designersandagents.com. Tel.: 780-455-1881. Fax: 780-455-3969. Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Tel.: Paris. Contact: Fédération Française de la Couture, 4-7, Mipel, Fieramilanocity, Milan. E-mail: [email protected]. +39-02-777-1081. Fax: +39-02-777-1085-062. du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Contact: Mipel. Tel.: +39-02-584-511. Web: trendsapparel.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Créateurs de Mode. Tel.: +33-1-42-66-64-44. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: mipel.it 9-12, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Fair District, Web: cameramoda.it Fax: +33-1-42-66-94-63. 4-7, Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Profile Show, piazza Costituzione 6, Bologna, Italy. Contact: 24-26, The National Wedding Show, Olympia, E-mail: [email protected]. Toronto Congress Center, Toronto. SoGeCos. Tel.: +39-02-4547-08224. Hammersmith Road, London, W14 8UX, Web: modeaparis.com. Contact: Serge Micheli. Tel.: 416-596-2401. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cosmoprof.com.

modamont.com

14 `16 FEB. 2012 PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE HALL3

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW OF TRIMMING AND SUPPLIES FOR FASHION AND DESIGN