" Silk Discovery and Analysis of the Characteristics and Types of Syrian Silk"

Home , Brocade

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" Silk discovery and analysis of the characteristics and types of Syrian silk"

Seba Razouk

College of Textile Engineering/ Taiyuan University of Technology

Email: [email protected]

(Taiyuan city/Shanxi province/China)

Professor: 姜中华/Jiang Zhong Hua

94 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798

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Abstract:

The search for silk textiles since its discovery eliminates its industry in this study, the silk discussed, where it used by kings and emperors, the physical and chemical properties as well as its importance in Chinese trade, carried out through the so-called "Silk Road." Even to the Middle East, specifically Syria, where we discuss the silk trade between China and Syria and its role in the Silk Road. Moreover, what Syria has added to the natural silk fabric? Also, How can we preserve the Syrian heritage and the Damascus silk industry?

Through this study, we emphasize the importance of the heritage and cultural history of peoples. If we go between the past and the present, and that means to convince our culture, customs, and traditions that make us distinct, then the conclusion applies to our heritage and civilization to benefit from it commercially.

Keywords: Jacquard, twill damask, silk, damask.

1-An introduction:

German sociologist Norbert Elias believes that "culture is what makes a nation different from another nation, a dimension that expresses the same nation and its characteristics, and is not subject to the classification of the highest and the lowest.

Moreover, civilisation is the dimension that makes disparities between nations diminish and reflect the general behavior and successes of humanity. In other words, culture is the property that makes nations different from each other, and civilisation is the link between nations ".

Through our understanding of culture and civilisation, we can preserve our traditions and heritage and spreading our civilisation. Among the most important civilisations and oldest in the world is Chinese civilisation, historically regarded as the dominant civilisation in East Asia and has been adopted in all areas. It also received many civilisations through the "Silk Road," which was dedicated to trade, economy and exchange of cultures, religions, and commodities of various kinds, and worth of mentioning is the silk fabric. The appearance of silk is a significant step in the history of the economy and the history of Chinese civilisation. It has influenced the civilisations and development of many countries.

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Because of the presence in China to study, we have seen many aspects of heritage and civilisation that still exist in various fields. The Chinese continue to care about their heritage, keep their traditions, and pride themselves in them; this they do either through the establishment of museums that preserve their heritage in civilisation or the streets. Hence the idea of research aimed at preserving our heritage, because it has not sufficiently documented. Also, through the research on silk fabrics, we have come to the understanding that the use of Silk in Syria has not well documented, although Syrian silk internationally known since the Silk Road to this day. Therefore, the research aimed to add a study to emphasise the importance of handicrafts and traditional crafts, which Syria is famous for and maintains.

The research depends on the documentary approach based on many references and comparison. Emphasising the importance of heritage and civilisation in enhancing the role of countries globally, whether in economic terms, as in silk or civilisation through its transmission and spread and absorption of its importance and trying to develop it in the spirit of national culture.

2-The secret of Chinese silk and leaking methods:

The secret of the silk industry has entered into myth and ancient tales, the oldest dating back to 2500 BC, when the Empress (Tsumeng) who was called the name "witch of Greater China" wife of Emperor (Hoon) and is said to have written the oldest book in the world, after the book "The Dead pharaohs." Through a committee that has reviewed and studied the content, the name of "Empress Tsuming Group" and contains more than a thousand prescription to treat various diseases, in addition to the secrets of some Chinese industries, including the secret of the discovery of 1silk which stated that, "I had a great crush on butterflies in Kasuri Gardens, and one day I found a bunch of these butterflies I took in the hope of using them in the pharmaceutical industry, but it happened after some hot water poured into the cocoons. Moreover, each of them seems fragile thread and tried again and again to grab the tip of this thread, so we managed to pull for three meters without interruption, and then realised the relationship between this cocoon, the worm that manufactures, and the threads surrounding the body such as coffins. Large worms and mulberry leaves as food, so we got large

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العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اإلصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net numbers of cocoons. Then used hot water and certain types of oils, and got silk yarns and since that day I monopolised the manufacture of silk fabrics.) Al-Qayyim, Ali.2012,No. 2. Page 13 ).

Despite all the various measures taken by the ancient masters of China to preserve the secrets of the art of silkworm culture and the technology of silk industry, these secrets have leaked out of China in different ways and by various quarters. Which threatened the monopoly of China's art industry and its economic resources important and large, and the stories of diversion of the silk industry as follows:

Lesnosius wrote: "Well, I have not come to the secret of his industry, but its origin is probably vegetative, and I gather that the Chinese somehow collect certain leaves of foliage, which are very smooth. This glossy fabric is way unknown to us.” (Irene, David M.1986).

The Western Region Book of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) reported that the Zhuyasadu Chuisadana in Zhutian, now Xinjiang, was unaware of the cultivation of mulberry trees, silkworm culture, and the technology of the silk industry. The king recognised this skill and experience in the importance of commercial silk and wished to transfer this vital art industry to his country to benefit economically and in various fields of life. The Chinese king received the delegates who told him about their mission, that the knowledge of the secrets of mulberry trees, silkworms and cocoons from his country falls under severe penal sanctions. The resentment of King Choisadana. The discontent of King Choisadana, who tried to rethink how he could learn the art of silk industry. He had a smart idea that would achieve his goal and his distant goals through a royal marriage project. Chuisadana sought the hand of a Princess of the Eastern Princesses of China, in the most exquisite literary, selected and elegant phrases, accompanied by the most precious, luxurious and rare royal gifts, which contributed to the approval of the Oriental Princess's marriage project. The King of Chuisadana then entrusted a delegate to prepare everything necessary for the reception of the Eastern Princess, and to inform her secretly that he was not in Chuisadana, and that it was desirable to carry with her or her belongings several silkworm eggs. . (Page14, VOL2, 2012. Folklore)

The Eastern Princess responded to this request and trusted the delegate to help her travel to the Kingdom of Chisadana. She put several silkworm eggs secretly in her head. When her convoy passed through the border control and inspection center of her country, it was natural that no one dared to

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العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اإلصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net search it. For the first time, the secrets of the art of silkworm culture and the silk industry outside China\\ leaked to the original home.

There are those who say that the silk industry was leaked out of China, following a soft, thin love story between a young Chinese princess called "Zoho" and a Syrian merchant from Antioch, revealing the secret of the industry, but the story is closer to the precision that says that a Chinese trader had known a Syrian girl from the city of Antioch about 1400 AD, and married her, and was able to know the secret of this industry and published in the Syrian coast and the countryside of the provinces of Idlib, Hama, and Homs, Some families produce natural silk, and make unusual tissue and tissue pieces. (Page14, VOL2, 2012. Folklore) the Silk-often referred to as "The Queen of Textiles" is the most durable natural fibre lustrous, smooth, inherent Affinity for dyes, vibrant colours, having high absorbent and lightweight qualities excellent drape and elastic properties. Historically this is the highly desired fibre which has been used extensively for apparels. Home furnishings and upholstery. Because of its lustrous look silk is always in vogue and cost highly. People love to dress in silk during the festive season and their family functions. China is the first to discover this remarkable fibre incidentally in about 2500B.C. For many years China alone used to produce silk fibre and was producing this delicate fabric, as the demand developed the secret was stolen out of China and eventually a large silk industry developed in Europe, Spain, Italy, France, India, Syria. The silk fibre is a protein secreted by certain caterpillars [silkworms) to enhance themselves in the Form of cacoons. Cocoons are then reeled to form yarn and yarns woven to form a smooth moreover, lustrous fabric called silk fabric. (https://www.hisour.com/ar/silk-road -silk-museum)

3-Varieties and Uses of Mulberry Silk Fabric: - Plain Silk Fabric – A deluxe quality thin silk fabric which ranges from 20 gm to 70 gm. Plain silk widely used for making blouses, fashion garments, scarves. - Dupioni Silk Fabric – Dupion silk obtained from two silkworms spinning a single cocoon. It mostly used for dress material, cushion covers, and home furnishing. - Charka Silk Fabric – Charka is a thicker fabric made on handlooms. It mainly used for the beautiful zari saris. - Chiffon Silk Fabric – A highly twisted yarn is used to produce a thin but durable fabric on power looms. After the processing and finishing, it becomes soft with a smooth texture — chiffons used for various ladies garments and scarves/ stoles. - Chinon Silk Fabric – Like Chiffon, Chinon is also produced from highly twisted yarn, but it attains a soft and crimps effect after processing and finishing. Chinon silk fabric is also ideal for ladies

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العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اإلصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net garments and scarves/stoles. - Crepe Silk Fabric– Crepe silk made from 2-ply twisted yarn which woven on a power loom. Mysore crepe saris are very popular. - Organza Silk Fabric – Organza silk is a thin fabric with rough texture produced from highly twisted yarn. It is mostly used as saree material and for embroidered garments. Satin Silk Fabric – Satin silk fabric widely used for various end uses, which gives an elegant look. Banarasi satin. . (https://www.hisour.com/ar/silk-road -silk-museum)

3-1 Characteristics and uses of silk:

Natural silk is the best natural animal fibre and the most expensive and best used. Which are produced by the silkworm from their mouth, and they are about 30 microns, and we need 3500 or 4500 meters of them to be weighing 1 gram. ) 1996, Alatrash ).

The silk is distinguished by its beautiful white color, which is yellowish, with its many distinct characteristics (such as softness, toughness and beautiful semi-transparency), which made silk a beautiful material that the ancient kings and the rich gentlemen of men and women were keen to buy and appear in richness, luxury, luxury, beauty, dignity, and respect. An era in which the price of silk was gold.

Since the first century AD, Chinese silk has used in the manufacture of beautiful silk garments, which most needed in Rome, the capital of the Roman Empire, and the Lady of the Old World, in an age of beauty, grandeur and aesthetic appeal. Emperors and chandeliers were not the only ones who wanted the beautiful, precious, and rare silk clothes because the Roman emperors and the wealthy were also willing to appear in those beautiful silk garments with the appearance of greatness, glory, respect, beauty, appreciation, and in all others.

Moreover, because of the scarcity of silk, and the very high price, which prevented the weaving of pure silk yarn only, so weavers weave fabrics of threads yarns and cotton with silk threads at different rates. They were often forced to reuse the yarns admiration of pure silk fabrics imported from the east. Since the third century AD, the exact difference between the two types of silk clothing was different as follows:

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Clothing fabrics made of pure silk. Which were not generally widespread, but were especially emperors and old-time wealthy. Cloth clothes of yarn and cotton yarn with silk yarns in different proportions.

Later on, the spread of silk was gradually being tasted, with some individuals with specific potential scattered in linen and cotton yarn with different threads as silk is one of the most beautiful precious official gifts presented at official occasions. The Roman Emperor was keen to seize the opportunities of events, celebrations, and games so that the distribution of gifts of silk and other, to the person deserves appreciation and reward.

3-2 Physical and chemical properties of natural silk:

"- Gum affects the degree of silk gloss, but after the removal of silk fibres look shiny, and increase the smoothness of the surface and softness, silk becomes distinctive in softness.

- Natural silk isolates body heat and keeps it from outside because it is of animal origin.

- Natural silk is one of the essential raw materials for textiles, with one-third of the strength of high- quality iron wire of the same diameter.

- Natural silk fibres are incredibly flexible, and elongation length in pieces is 15 to 20% of their original length after decompression.

- The primary material of the silk thread is the protein material which is fibrinogen 10, 63% and serene 22.58%, in which some fats 0.14%, mineral salts 1,12% and coloured materials and waxes 0.54%.

- Silk is affected by acidic substances and strong alkalis and salts (such as table salt).

- Silk dye should be dyed acidic, basic and active, and can absorb the dye faster than other natural materials.

High heat also affects natural silk and turns yellowish at 80 or 90 ° C.

- Natural silk is difficult to ignite, and when it burns its threads with fire, it does not ignite but turns into ashes directly.

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When it burned, it produces a distinctive odour that resembles the smell of a burnt animal horn

)37, 1996, Alatrash ).

4- Silk in Syria:

Initially, Damascus made natural silk and various manuscripts according to the colors in the cloth. Today's display varies according to drawings that differ in color according to the number of needles, but in older drawings, boiling was manually glazed and needle, thus producing less than one loom or more.

 Brocade:

The Syrian silk Brocade is considered the most expensive type of fabrics and textiles in the world, the fabric made of gold, silver, and natural silk threads. The city of Damascus is unique in Syria since ancient times and has a craftsmanship and industry specialists and famous. Brocade industry is a delicate and cumbersome process that requires a high effort and is carried out during a long and arduous process that requires months to accomplish one meter of brocar. This effort has made the learning away from this craft a reason for its atrophy, and another reason for its reputation.

"Silk color varies according to its origin. Silkworms give silk of a kind ranging from golden yellow to diabetic white. In the past (1996.Alatrash), silk in Syria and Antioch was golden yellow, and now the Japanese hybrid worm gives sugary white silk."

The brocade industry is old, Damascus was famous for three centuries. This traditional woven on handlooms, which provides a smooth flow of melting and deformation. Syria has been distinguished from the old hand-made textile industry and flourished in particular in the silk industry. Linen, cotton, wool, hair, and silk produced because of the abundance of raw materials of plant and animal source. When we mention the word "Brocard" or "Damascus" does not come to mind directly to the name of Damascus and Syria. These exquisite handicrafts have become a distinct part of this country. When we mention the word "Brocard" or "Damascus" does not come to mind directly to the name of Damascus and Syria, i.e., these exquisite handicrafts have become a distinct part of this country.

The British Queen Elizabeth II wore it in 1954, an Arab dress of Syrian brocade engraved lover and adored, the Syrian government at the time gifted to Britain on the occasion of the wedding of the Queen.

The Development of Traditional Handicrafts and Heritage Markets as an Approach to Promoting Cultural Tourism: Reality, Challenges, and Prospects for Development in Syria.

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The origin of the name goes to "Pocatello" in Italian, which means artifact silky and embroidered with gold or silver threads, and then it was converted to Brocard in French and means silk fabric, and then moved to Arabic.

Some of them called bro-car after Ibrahim al-Khalil, because he lived in the Mesopotamian period and worked in the craft of weaving, and some of them see that they call their origin Kurdish because the word "Pro" Kurdish means silk and the word "Car" means a professional What is the brocade brocaded with gold or silver threads. The role of these yarns in the fabric is limited to decorations. Different colors form many drawings, including some human images, dancers, including vegetarian or animal, such as elephants, deer, and birds, including what is simplified topics in general inscriptions and the central theme is evident.

-Colors of brocade:

Brocard has many patterns ranging from two to seven colors per piece. (2014.Syrian Intangible Cultural Heritage (White and black are the most commonly used for strings. Weft threads are red, green and blue in small quantities and beige used.

-Broccoli Drawing:

The process of drawing on a brocade is a complex process based on precise work, drawing the shape, bird or sweat on millimetric paper with a width not exceeding 5 cm in the case of weaving on the loom of 400 hook where the shape repeated every 5 cm or the width of this figure each 20 cm. They apply this drawing to cardboard boards on top of the loom. Called moving jacquard so that it linked to the movement Balsnanar. The important thing is to know how many holes occupy the square centimeter. When the loom is run the weaving of the ordinary yarns passes as usual between the strings of various types, the shuttles for the golden threads, the lift raises hooks to the number of holes, and so on until the shape and then repeat the work whenever the shape repeats. They painted these drawings with special hooks, which they boiled by hand.

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The drawings used in the fabric of the Damascene brocade mostly inspired by the daily life of Damascene and Islamic decoration and then from the Arab, Islamic, and European history, for example:

- Drawing hazelnuts, almonds and soft (small rose): It is the fruit of the trees of hazelnuts, almonds, and roses, which are abundant in Arab homes, especially Damascene.

- Drawing East: a decoration inspired by the geometric shapes found in the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, which is a geometric shape in which twelve ribs.

Drawing the Battle of Saladin: From Arab-Islamic History.

Drawing Noah's Ark: A Religious Myth. - Hey.

Drawing of Romeo and Juliet: From European Heritage.

- Drawing of Omar Khayyam: It is a scene of deer hunting, the dance of masters and men's sessions and smoking of the hookah, a drawing influenced by Persia.

- Butterfly Drawing: This painting very wanted by foreign tourists, and contains seven colours.

- Drawing a bird of love and adored: a brocade cloth selected by Queen Elizabeth II to make her wedding dress. Brocard merchants then named Queen Elizabeth the lover and adored figure (Folklore. 2012, page 14)

Colours used:

The brocade has many colours ranging from two to seven colours per piece. The colours of the brocade are documented and are not subject to change or update. . (2014. Syrian Intangible Cultural Heritage)

Texture:

The brocade fabric is thin, soft to the touch, and hard to weave on robotic looms that do not have weft paper and warp. (Folklore. 2012, page 14)

Brocard has several uses including women's clothing and some men's clothing such as neckties or waist rolls in traditional dress/interior decoration in homes such as furniture covers and curtains .

Damascus is like a brocade of textiles that characterized Damascus. It called (bit) when the width of one meter, but now it has increased to 145 cm, and even 220 and initially made by the sons of Damascus from natural silk and handlooms (Dos) vary the number of pedals depending on the colours in the cloth. The offer varies today according to the fees, which varies according to the number of needles (hooks) loom. In the old fees were boiled glue by hand and needle, and accordingly, reduce the production of loom or more:

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The name Damasco derived from Damascus, the capital of Syria, which was famous for producing this cloth.

Damask fabrics distinguished from the brocade with their rigid geometric or plant inscriptions that do not reflect a movement, history or character as in the brocade. Damask fabrics newly made from 100% cotton yarns on Jacquard looms, and their use has limited to bed covers and sheets, such as upholstery and curtains.

The British Queen Elizabeth wore it in 1954, an Arab dress of Syrian brocade engraved lover and adored, the Syrian government at the time gifted to Britain on the occasion of the wedding of the Queen.

The Development of Traditional Handicrafts and Heritage Markets as an Approach to Promoting Cultural Tourism: Reality, Challenges, and Prospects for Development in Syria.

-Colors of brocade:

Brocard has many patterns ranging from two to seven colors per piece (2014. Syrian Intangible Cultural Heritage)

White and black are the most commonly used for strings. Weft threads are red, green and blue in small quantities and beige used.

 Damask:

Damask is like a brocade of textiles that characterized Damascus. It called (bit) when the width of one meter, but now it has increased to 145 cm, and even 220 and initially made by the sons of Damascus from natural silk and handlooms (Dos) vary the number of pedals depending on the colors in the cloth. The offer varies today according to the fees, which varies according to the number of needles (hooks) loom. In the old fees were boiled glue by hand and needle, and accordingly, reduce the production of

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)3( )4(

It is a canvas with knights, hunters, trees, plants, and fruits. Its name derived from the name of Damascus city and frequently used for upholstery of upholstery and curtains. The Syrians transferred this industry to Andalusia and attributed it to Damascus. The Damascus fabric used in many types of inscriptions and drawings. ) 1996, Alatrash ).

Damasck is like the brocade of textiles that characterised Damascus. It was one meter wide and now rose to 145 cm and up to 220 cm. In the beginning, Damascus made natural silk and various manuscripts according to the colours in the cloth. The offer varies today according to the drawings, which vary in colour according to the number of needles, but in the old drawings, the boiling was glazing by hand and needle, thus producing less than looming on the horizon or more.

Damask fabrics are characterised by their geometric or vegetal patterns, which do not express movement, history, or personality, as in the brocade. They are large, and have a large area of repetition, while brochures can be small graphics with little repetition. Damascene fabrics were recently made of 100% cotton threads on jacquard rings and used in bedding such as upholstery and curtains.

 Al-Aghabani:

Aghbani was known in Aleppo and Homs and also moved to Damascus. It is a natural silk fabric. It covered with a natural silk thread with a needle, and the fabric pressed on the plastic frame.

Today, embroidery is no longer handmade, but with the help of an electric machine, cotton cloth or organza, with rayon thread. 105 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798

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-As for the embroidery of Agbani, there are two types:

Full coverage: Thick and coarse embroidery on the entire cloth area.

- Spraying: Minimal embroidery, leaving voids in the fabric.

On the other side of the colors of rayon yarns used are white, yellow, and golden on the majority, namely Aghabany colors used since its inception in Syria, especially yellow. Then there are other colors such as red and blue used in low proportions in the embroidery of Aghbani. )63, 1996, Alatrash ).

. )5( 4 -1Materials and Methods: - Analysis of Twill Damask: The different stages of preparation of 4 threads twill damask weave along with its draft and peg-plan are given in Figs 1a) (o) and its analysis is given below in stages. The two different weaves of 4 end twill (3/1 twill and 1/3 twill) (b) respectively using x' mark. For weaving twill damask fabric, these two weaves are used in figure and ground respectively. The pure twill damask (check effect) is indicated in 16 x 16, as shown in Fig.1 (c). The weave marks of this twill damask rearranged by shifting few threads of 3/1 twill, as shown in Fig.1 (d) are shown in Figs 1 (a) and By observing the rearranged twill damask weave in Fig.1 (d), an ordinary weave mark running in both Ground and figure identified. That is, the diagonal line of 1/3 twill weave (ground) is also continuing in the 3/1 twi weave continuity of 1/3 twill line in both the weaves is indicated by shading the 'x' mark (x') as shown in Fig.1 (e). The damask weave [Fig.1 (e)] split into two sections. The shaded 'x' marks ('x') in the (figure). This damask weave is alone separated and shown in Fig.1 (f) using the marks. The plain 'x' marks in the damask weave are alone separated and shown in Fig.1 (g) All the ends in the ground in 1/3 twill order, as shown in Fig.1 (f). As the ends are working in simple 1/3 twill order, it is

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العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اإلصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net drawn simply in 4 open healds (OHL) in the straight draft as shown in Fig. 1 (h) and operated peg-plan [Fig.1 (i) The repeat of weave derived by condensing the peg-plan [Fig. (i)] is given in Fig. ). This weave is the plan to lift the healds. All the ends in-ground portion are down, and all the ends in figure portion are interlacing in 2 & 2 mat weave order as seen in Fig. 1 (g). Hence, each hook can control two successive ends. A set of two as well as in figure interlace as shown at the hooks is made to control four ends in the order of 1, 1, 2, 2. Each set of 4 ends, as stated above, are also scaled two times as shown in the draft (k) The doubling and two times scaling put together result in operation of 8 ends by a set of 2 hooks. The scaling can also be three or four times. Thus figuring the capacity of jacquard get multiplied into 4, 6, 8 times The peg-plan of Fig.1 (g) is given in Fig.1 () The repeats of figure and ground weaves derived by condensing the peg-plan [Fig.1 (are given in Figs 1m) and (n) respectively. These two weaves are used respectively, in the figure and ground parts of punching graph. It is also to note that the weaves are shown in Figs 1(f) and (g) cross with each other independent in its lifting and do not are The combined drafting order is shown in Fig. 1 -(o) by combining the draft given in Figs 1 (h) and (k) It identified from the analysis that the twill damask.

The weave could separate into two parts of having two different characteristics. One part of the weave is figuring part which could be operated by jacquard and could also be scaled number of times required. Another part of the weave is simple basic weave which could be operated by a set of healds or harnesses. It also noted that these two sections of weaves as independent with each other The first section is of 4 healds shedding, to operate the ends in 1/3 twill order of lifting. )weaving twill damask fabric section(

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)6(

Conclusion:

The research aims to look at aspects of Syrian cultural heritage. Syrian silk is part of the handicrafts that represent a cultural heritage that needs protection and attention to its heritage value. It is also one of the factors that make the Syrian economy stronger if the industry and its trade paid attention. One of the problems of this industry is the great effort made by artisans for a whole day to weave one meter of silk and its high cost. Syrian silk, especially brocade, is one of the most expensive textiles in the world. Through reading many books and research, we could not find complete documentation on silk textiles in China. The only focus was on silkworm culture or the method of weaving these silk threads without considering that these fabrics entered the design of our traditional costumes in their colours and drawings. The study dealt with the traditional fashion in China, the traditional Syrian fashion, the Syrian, and Chinese crafts, and all that includes both cultures from cultural heritage. This study sheds 108 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798

العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اإلصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net light on the silk artworks, which are a cultural heritage, and we must preserve it. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce these artistic textiles, which are known worldwide, and interest in raising silkworms and adopting modern techniques in weaving to preserve this ancient civilisation.

References:

Al-Qayyim, Ali.2012. Popular Heritage Issue No. 2. Page 13.

weaving twill damask fabric. section Scale. Stitch harnessing.

Irene M. Franck, David M. Brownstone.1986. Silk Road. Fact on File.New York.Oxford.

About the history of China _ Michael Dillon page62.

https://www.hisour.com/ar/silk-road-china-national-silk-museum-35346/amp/

folklore .2012.N 2.p 14.

Dillon, M. About the history of China .page62.

المراجع بالعربية:

التراث الثقافي الالمادي السوري .المهارات المرتبطة بالفنون الحرفية التقليدية .2014.الجزء االول

التراث الشعبي.2012 .العدد-2 الصفحة14

األطرش.ريم. 1996 . الحرير في سورية .لواء اسكندرون ، سورية و لبنان، دمشق: وزارة الثقافة

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الملخص:

يتناول البحث المنسوجات الحريرية منذ اكتشافها والحفاظ على صناعتها حصرية للصين حتى وصولها إلى سوريا.

في هذه الدراسة نناقش الحرير من حيث أصنافه ، استخداماته من قبل الملوك واألباطرة ، و خصائصه الفيزيائية و

الكيميائية إضافة إلى أهميته في التجارة الصينية ، التي نفذت من خالل ما يسمى "طريق الحرير". حتى وصولة

إلى الشرق االوسط و تحديدا سوريا ، حيث نناقش تجارة الحرير بين الصين وسوريا ودورها على طريق الحرير.

وما أضافته سوريا على نسيج الحرير الطبيعي ، إضافة إلى أنواع الحرير السوري و تحليل الحرير الدمشقي الذي

اكتسب شهرة دولية حتى يومنا هذا.وتقديم استنتاجات و توصيات للحفاظ على الت ارث السوري وصناعة الحرير في

دمشق.

من خالل هذه الدراسة ، نؤكد على أهمية التراث والتاريخ الثقافي للشعوب. فإذا قطعنا الصلة بين الماضي

والحاضر ، فهذا يعني قطع الصلة بثقافتنا وعاداتنا وتقاليدنا التي تجعلنا متميزين عن بقية الناس وبالتالي نصبح

أشجار بال جذور. لذلك ، فإن االستنتاج يتضمن بعض التوصيات للحفاظ على تراثنا و حضارتنا و االستفاده منه

تجاريا .

الكلمات المفتاحية: البروكار ، النسيج الدمشقي ، الحرير ، الدماسكينو.

110 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798