A Silver Yarn-Incorporated Song Brocade Fabric with Enhanced Electromagnetic Shielding

materials

Article A Silver Yarn-Incorporated Song Brocade Fabric with Enhanced Electromagnetic Shielding

Xiuling Zhang 1,2 , Zimin Jin 3,* , Lizhu Hu 1, Xinyi Zhou 1, Kai Yang 2 , Dana Kremenakova 2 and Jiri Militky 2

1 Jiangxi Center for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Nanchang 330201, China; [email protected] (X.Z.); [email protected] (L.H.); [email protected] (X.Z.) 2 Department of Material Engineering, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Technical University of Liberec, 461 17 Liberec, Czech Republic; [email protected] (K.Y.); [email protected] (D.K.); [email protected] (J.M.) 3 Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEWCollege of Textile Science and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Xiasha Education Park,2 of 17 Hangzhou 310018, China * Correspondence: [email protected]

protect electrical equipment and human body from these damages, the fabrics with en- Abstract: The fabrics with electromagnetic interference (EMI) have been used in various fields. How- hanced electromagnetic interference (EMI) have provided a solution. These fabrics were ever, most studies related to the EMI fabrics focused on the improvement of the final electromagnetic usually realized by incorporating the metal materials into the fabrics [8,9]. Shielding of shieldingEM waves effectiveness was here (EM achievedSE) by by adjusting the absorption the preparation and reflection parameters of EM while radiation the breathability in the of themetal EMI fabrics-incorporated was affected fabrics and [10,11]. the visible surficial patterns on the EMI fabric was limited. In this work, the two samples based on the Song Brocade structure were fabricated with surficial visible pattern ‘卐’. One was fabricated with silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns, the another with polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns. The weaving structure of the two samples

were investigated by scanning electronic microscopy (SEM) and laser optical microscopy (LOM). The Various methods have been used for the preparation of metal-incorporated fabrics to Citation: Zhang, X.; Jin, Z.; Hu, L.; resistance against the EM radiation near field communication (NFC) and the ultraviolet (UV) light enhance the EM shielding effectiveness (SE), including the coating method (dip coating, Zhou, X.; Yang, K.; Kremenakova, D.; was also evaluated. Besides, the surface resistance, the air permeability and the water evaporation Militky, J. A Silver Yarn-Incorporated the sputtering coating, the electroless plating…) and the weaving technology by using rate were investigated. The results revealed that the ‘ ’ appeared successfully on the surface of Song Brocade Fabric with Enhanced conductive yarns [12–16]. Both the dip coating and the sputtering coating were convenient theto two prepare samples the with EMI stable fabric weavings. The electroless structure. plating The Ag-PA technology yarn-incorporated was realized Song based Brocade on the fabric Electromagnetic Shielding. Materials hadautocatalytic the EMI shielding deposition effectiveness and simultaneous value around reduction 50 dB, which where was the supported metal ions by in the the low bath surface 2021, 14, 3779. https://doi.org/ were reduced with the catalyst and was suitable for the preparation of the ultralight EMI 10.3390/ma14143779 resistance less than 40 Ω. The excellent NFC shielding of the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade wasfabric alsofound. [17–19]. The However, ultraviolet the protectioncoating technology factor (UPF) altered value surface of the chemistry Ag-PA yarn-incorporated and permeabil- Song ity of the fabric [20]. The friction loss was also the factor affecting the lifetime coated fabric Academic Editor: Jung Bin In Brocade fabric was higher than 190. The air permeability and the evaporation rate of the Ag-PA for EMI, which strongly depended on the bonding between the metal materials and the yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric was higher than 99 mm/s, and 1.4 g/h, respectively. As a fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI re- Received: 1 June 2021 result,alized the via Ag-PA the surface yarn-incorporated coating methods Song Brocadewas significantly fabrics were altered proposed when forcompared both the with personal the and Accepted: 30 June 2021 theuncoated industrial fabrics, scale utilization. which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry Published: 6 July 2021 rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a Keywords:factor to affectSong the Brocade stability fabric; of EMI surficial fabric [21]. pattern; Opposing electromagnetic to the various shielding; coating methods, UV protection; Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral air permeabilitythe weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide with regard to jurisdictional claims in a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect published maps and institutional affil- of the porosity, thickness, yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE iations. [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with 1. Introductionbasic structure, like plain, twill, honeycomb, end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attrac- tionWith for thethe rapidcustomers. development To date, there of the ha electronicve been a communicationfew reports related technology, to the complicated the electronic devicespatterns became on the common metal-incorporated in the daily fabrics. life. Along with the development of the electronic Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. communication,The Song theBrocade electromagnetic fabric was based (EM) on radiation the unique generated structure, by which the ubiquitous arose from electronic the Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. devicesSong alsoDynasty has of a negativeChina [28,29]. effect The on main the materials human lifefor [the1]. Song The Brocade long-term fabric exposure were the to EM This article is an open access article radiationmulberry could silk [30]. endanger The Song people’s Brocade health fabric was [2,3 ].mainly It was fabricated revealed based that on the the various two tra- slight distributed under the terms and or seriousditional types negative of weaving effects [29]. on the The human weave of body Song have Brocade been was investigated weft backed, when from someonetwo conditions of the Creative Commons hasgroups been nearof warp the and mobile multiple base groups station of wefts. for a In certain details, time. one group Additionally, was called thethe ground personal in- Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// formationwarp, which stored, was e.g.,made in of credit refined cards and dyed and mulberry other electronic silk, and cardsthe other may group be stolenwas called by using creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground near field communication (NFC) technology, which is based on the EM radiation [4–7]. 4.0/). warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade Materials 2021, 14, 3779. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14143779fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospectivehttps://www.mdpi.com/journal/materials alternative for the EMI fabrics. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song fabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, and the other one was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two fabrics were fabricated with the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surficial pattern. The structure similarity of the surficial patterns of both samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet (UV) shielding of both samples were evaluated. The surface resistance of both samples was also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate of samples were measured.

Materials 2021, 14, 3779 2 of 16

To protect electrical equipment and human body from these damages, the fabrics with enhanced electromagnetic interference (EMI) have provided a solution. These fabrics were usually realized by incorporating the metal materials into the fabrics [8,9]. Shielding of EM waves was here achieved by the absorption and reflection of EM radiation in the metal-incorporated fabrics [10,11]. Various methods have been used for the preparation of metal-incorporated fabrics to enhance the EM shielding effectiveness (SE), including the coating method (dip coating, the sputtering coating, the electroless plating ... ) and the weaving technology by using conductive yarns [12–16]. Both the dip coating and the sputtering coating were convenient to prepare the EMI fabrics. The electroless plating technology was realized based on the autocatalytic deposition and simultaneous reduction where the metal ions in the bath were reduced with the catalyst and was suitable for the preparation of the ultralight EMI fabric [17–19]. However, the coating technology altered surface chemistry and permeability of the fabric [20]. The friction loss was also the factor affecting the lifetime coated fabric for EMI, which strongly depended on the bonding between the metal materials and the fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI realized via the surface coating methods was significantly altered when compared with the uncoated fabrics, which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, the weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect of the porosity, thickness, yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with basic structure, like plain, twill, honeycomb, end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated patterns on the metal-incorporated fabrics. The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the Song Dynasty of China [28,29]. The main materials for the Song Brocade fabric were the mulberry silk [30]. The Song Brocade fabric was mainly fabricated based on the two traditional types of weaving [29]. The weave of Song Brocade was weft backed, from two groups of warp and multiple groups of wefts. In details, one group was called the ground warp, which was made of refined and dyed mulberry silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of

the ground warp and face warp was mostlyMaterials 3, and 2021 sometimes, 14, x FOR PEER the ratioREVIEW could be 2, 4, 6 2 of 17 etc. [31]. Compared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the protect electrical equipment and human body from these damages, the fabrics with en- Song Brocade fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospectivehanced alternativeelectromagnetic interference (EMI) have provided a solution. These fabrics were for the EMI fabrics. usually realized by incorporating the metal materials into the fabrics [8,9]. Shielding of In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. OneEM waswaves the was Song here achieved by the absorption and reflection of EM radiation in the fabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, andmetal the-incorporated other one fabrics [10,11]. was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two fabrics were fabricated with the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surﬁcial pattern. The structure similarity of the surﬁcial patterns of both samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet (UV) shielding of both samples were evaluated. The surface resistance of both samplesVarious methods was have been used for the preparation of metal-incorporated fabrics to enhance the EM shielding effectiveness (SE), including the coating method (dip coating, also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate of the sputtering coating, the electroless plating…) and the weaving technology by using samples were measured. conductive yarns [12–16]. Both the dip coating and the sputtering coating were convenient to prepare the EMI fabrics. The electroless plating technology was realized based on the autocatalytic deposition and simultaneous reduction where the metal ions in the bath were reduced with the catalyst and was suitable for the preparation of the ultralight EMI fabric [17–19]. However, the coating technology altered surface chemistry and permeability of the fabric [20]. The friction loss was also the factor affecting the lifetime coated fabric for EMI, which strongly depended on the bonding between the metal materials and the fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI realized via the surface coating methods was significantly altered when compared with the uncoated fabrics, which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, the weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect of the porosity, thickness, yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with basic structure, like plain, twill, honeycomb, end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated patterns on the metal-incorporated fabrics. The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the Song Dynasty of China [28,29]. The main materials for the Song Brocade fabric were the mulberry silk [30]. The Song Brocade fabric was mainly fabricated based on the two traditional types of weaving [29]. The weave of Song Brocade was weft backed, from two groups of warp and multiple groups of wefts. In details, one group was called the ground warp, which was made of refined and dyed mulberry silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospective alternative for the EMI fabrics. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song fabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, and the other one was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two fabrics were fabricated with the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surficial pattern. The structure similarity of the surficial patterns of both samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet (UV) shielding of both samples were evaluated. The surface resistance of both samples was also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate of samples were measured.

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 16 Materials 2021, 14, 3779 3 of 16

2. Experimental 2.1.2. Experimental Materials 2.1. Materials Three yarns were purchased from Suzhou Shangjiukai Company (Suzhou, China), includingThree the yarns raw weresilk, the purchased cooked mulberry from Suzhou silk, and Shangjiukai the polyester Company (PET) yarns. (Suzhou, The China), silver- platedincluding nylon the 6 raw (Ag-PA) silk, the yarns cooked were mulberry purchased silk, from and Suzhou the polyester Shangjiukai (PET) yarns. silk technology The silver- cultureplated nylonco., ltd. 6 (Ag-PA)(Suzhou, yarns China). were Topurchased ensure the from visibility Suzhou of the Shangjiukai designed silkpattern technology on the surfaceculture of co., the ltd. Song (Suzhou, brocade China). fabric, Tothe ensure yarns thewere visibility proposed of to the have designed different pattern colors. on The the detailssurface of of the the yarns Song were brocade shown fabric, in Table the yarns 1. were proposed to have different colors. The details of the yarns were shown in Table1. Table 1. Details of the used yarns. Table 1. Details of the used yarns. Yarn Type Fineness (Denier) Color RawYarn Typesilk Fineness 1/20/22 (Denier) den Black Color Raw silk1/20/22 1/20/22 den den Black Black Cooked mulberry silk 1/20/22 den Black Cooked mulberry silk 5/20/22 den Blue 1, Blue 2, Blue 3 5/20/22 den Blue 1, Blue 2, Blue 3 PETPET 300 300 den den Brown Brown Ag-PAAg-PA 90 90 den den Black Black

2.2.2.2. Fabrication Fabrication of of Song Song Brocade Brocade Fabric Fabric ToTo fabricate the SongSong BrocadeBrocade fabric,fabric, it it was was necessary necessary to to design design the the fabric fabric structure structure in Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 17 inthe the weaving weaving system. system. As As shown shown in in Figure Figure1, the 1, the three three kinds kinds of weaves of weaves were were involved involved in the in theweaving weaving system, system, which which consisted consisted of two of two groups groups of warps of warps and and four four groups groups of wefts. of wefts. The Theratio ratio of warp of warp 1 to 1 wrap to wrap 2 was 2 was 3 and 3 and the ratiothe ratio of four of four groups groups of wefts of wefts was was 1. In 1. detail, In detail, the thestructure structure of the of the Song Song Brocade Brocade fabrics fabricsprotect was was described electrical described asequipment followings: as followings: and human body from these damages, the fabrics with enhanced electromagnetic interference (EMI) have provided a solution. These fabrics were (1) Weave 1 showed the ground pattern. The surface layer consisted of warp 1 and weft (1) Weave 1 showed the ground pattern.usually The realized surface by layer incorporating consisted the of warpmetal 1materials and weft into 1 the fabrics [8,9]. Shielding of 1in in 2/1 2/1 twill,twill, the surface of the fabric EM waves sh showedowed was thehere mixed mixed achieved color color by of ofthe warp warp absorption 1 1 and and weft weftand reflection1. 1. of EM radiation in the TheThe middle middle layer layer consisted consisted of of warp warpmetal 2 and -incorporated weft 2 and fabrics weft [10,11]. 3 in 1/2 twill, twill, and and the the inner inner layerlayer consists consists of of warp warp 2 2 and and weft weft 4 4 in in 2/1 2/1 twill. twill. (2)(2) WeaveWeave 2 2 was was aimed aimed to to present present the the ‘ ‘卍卐’, which was a classicalclassical ChineseChinese pattern.pattern. The surfacesurface layer layer consisted consisted of of warp warp 2 2 and and weft weft 2 in 1/2 twill, twill, and and the the surface surface of of the the fabric fabric showedshowed the the mixed mixed color color of of warp warp 2 2 and and weft weft 2. 2. The The middle middle layer layer consisted consisted of of warp warp 1 1 andand weft weft 1 1 and and weft weft 3 3 in in 1/2 1/2 twill, twill, and andVarious the the inner inner methods layer layer have consisted consisted been used of of warp warpfor the 1 1 preparationand and weft weft 4 of metal-incorporated fabrics to enhance the EM shielding effectiveness (SE), including the coating method (dip coating, inin 2/1 2/1 twill. twill. the sputtering coating, the electroless plating…) and the weaving technology by using

(3)(3) WeaveWeave 3 3 showed showed the the cross-hatching cross-hatchingconductive pattern. pattern. yarns The The [12 surface surface–16]. Both layer layer the dipconsisted consisted coating andof of warp warpthe sputtering 2 coating were convenient andand weft weft 2 2 and and weft weft 3 3 in in 1/2 twill, twill,to prepare and and the the the surface surface EMI fabric of of the thes. The fabric fabric electroless showed plating the mixedtechnology was realized based on the colorcolor of of warp warp 2 2 and and weft weft 2 2 and and weft weftautocatalytic 3. 3. The The middle middle deposition layer layer andconsisted consisted simultaneous of of warp warp reduction 1 1 and and weft weft where the metal ions in the bath 11 and and weft weft 1 1 in in 1/2 1/2 twill, twill, and and the the innerwere inner reduced layer layer consists consists with the of of catalyst warp warp 1 1and and and was weft weft suitable 4 in 2/1 for twill.the twill. preparation of the ultralight EMI fabric [17–19]. However, the coating technology altered surface chemistry and permeability of the fabric [20]. The friction loss was also the factor affecting the lifetime coated fabric for EMI, which strongly depended on the bonding between the metal materials and the fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI realized via the surface coating methods was significantly altered when compared with the uncoated fabrics, which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, the weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect of the porosity, thickness, yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with basic structure, like plain, twill, honeycomb, end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated patterns on the metal-incorporated fabrics. The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the Song Dynasty of China [28,29]. The main materials for the Song Brocade fabric were the Figure 1. Fabric weaves and structure of the Song Brocade fabric (schematic cross-section). mulberry silk [30]. The Song Brocade fabric was mainly fabricated based on the two traditional types of weaving [29]. The weave of Song Brocade was weft backed, from two groups of warp and multiple groups of wefts. In details, one group was called the ground

warp, which was made of refined and dyed mulberry silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospective alternative for the EMI fabrics. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song fabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, and the other one was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two fabrics were fabricated with the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surficial pattern. The structure similarity of the surficial patterns of both samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet (UV) shielding of both samples were evaluated. The surface resistance of both samples was also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate of samples were measured.

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 4 of 16

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 17

Materials 2021, 14, 3779 4 of 16 Figure 1. Fabric weaves and structure of the Song Brocade fabric (schematic cross-section). protect electrical equipment and human body from these damages, the fabrics with en- Table 2 gave hancedthe details electromagnetic of the yarns interference in the prepared (EMI) have Song provided Brocade a fabrics.solution. By These using fabrics were the textileTable2 CAD gave technology, theusually details realized oftwo the Songby yarns incorporating Brocade in the preparedfabrics the metal were Song materials successfully Brocade into fabrics. thefabricated fabrics By [8,9]. usingby jac- Shielding of thequard textile loom. CAD The technology,detailsEM waves of the was two two here Song Song achieved Brocade Brocad bye fabricsfabricsthe absorption werewere successfullyshown and reflection in Table fabricated of 3. EMSince radiation bythe in the jacquardSong Brocade loom. fabric Themetal details had-incorporated the of different the two fabrics Songsurficial [10,11]. Brocade patterns fabrics on both were sides, shown the in fabric Table side3. Since with thesurficial Song pattern Brocade ‘卍 fabric’ was had set theas front different side surficial (F-side) patternsand the opposite on both sides, side was the fabricset as sideback with surficial pattern ‘卐’ was set as front side (F-side) and the opposite side was set as side (B-side). It was found that the sample S2 had the higher thickness value than the backsample side S1. (B-side). The main It was reason found could that be the that sample the Ag-PA S2 had yarns the higher of the thickness sample S2 value were than thicker the sample S1. The main reason could be that the Ag-PA yarns of the sample S2 were thicker than the PET yarns of the sample S1. Under the same light source, the physical images of than the PET yarns of theVarious sample methods S1. Under have been the sameused for light the source,preparation the of physical metal-incorporated images of fabrics to the two samples wereenhance shown the EM in Figureshielding 2. effectivIt was enessfound (SE that), including there was the no coating obvious method differ- (dip coating, the two samples were shown in Figure2. It was found that there was no obvious difference ence in the surficialthe pattern sputtering and coating, the color the between electroless two plating…) samples. and the weaving technology by using in the surficial patternconductive and the yarns color [12 between–16]. Both two the dip samples. coating and the sputtering coating were convenient Table 2. Details of theto prepareyarns for the Song EMI Brocade fabrics. fabric. The electroless plating technology was realized based on the Table 2. Detailsautocatalytic of the yarns deposition for Song Brocade and simultaneous fabric. reduction where the metal ions in the bath Yarn Code Yarnwere Typereduced in withthe Samplethe catalyst S1 and was suitable Yarn Type for the in preparation the Sample of S2the ultralight EMI Yarn Code Yarn Type in the Sample S1 Yarn Type in the Sample S2 Wrap 1 fabric Raw [17 silk–19]. (1/20/22 However, den) the coating technology Raw altered silk surface(1/20/22 chemistry den) and permeabil- Wrap 1Wrap 2 Raw Cooked silkity (1/20/22 of mulberry the fabric den) [20].silk The(1/20/22 friction den) loss was also Raw the Ag-PA silk factor (1/20/22 yarn affecting (90 den) den)the lifetime coated fabric Wrap 2 Cooked mulberry silk (1/20/22 den) Ag-PA yarn (90 den) Weft 1 Cookedfor EMI, mulberry which silkstrongly (5/20/22 depended den) on Cooked the bonding mulberry between silk the (5/20/22 metal materials den) and the Weft 1 Cooked mulberryfibers. silk Furthermore, (5/20/22 den) the surficial patterns Cooked of mulberry the metal silk-incorporated (5/20/22 den) fabrics with EMI re- Weft 2 Cooked mulberry silk (5/20/22 den) Cooked mulberry silk (5/20/22 den) Weft 2 Cooked mulberryalized silk via (5/20/22 the surface den) coating methods Cooked was significantly mulberry silk altered (5/20/22 when den) compared with the Weft 3Weft Cooked 3 mulberry Cookeduncoated silkmulberry (5/20/22 fabrics, silk which den) (5/20/22 strongly den) limited Cooked Cooked such mulberry metal mulberry-incorporated silk (5/20/22 silk (5/20/22 fabrics den) den) for the industry Weft 4 PET Yarn (300 den) Ag-PA yarn (90 den) Weft 4 rather PET than Yarn the daily(300 den)use. Besides, the moisture Ag-PA content yarn in the (90 room den) condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, TableTable 3. 3.Details Details of of the thethe prepared prepared weaving Song Songmethod Brocade Brocade by using fabric. fabric. conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect Sample Warpof Warpthe Density porosity, Density thickness,WeftWeft yarns Density type andAreal layersAreal Density ofDensity the EMI fabricsThickness on the final EM SE Sample Code 2 Thickness (mm) Code [9,22(Root/cm)(Root/cm)–27]. It was also concluded(Root/cm)(Root/cm) that the fabrics(g/cm (g/cmwith) cond2) uctive yarns(mm) were woven with S1S1 basic120 structure, 120 like plain, twill,120 honeycomb, end 239 satin239 etc. Since the 0.4380.438 fabric structure was S2S2 simple,120 120the visible surficial patterns120 of the EMI fabrics 194194 were limited, 0.542 which0.542 had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated patterns on the metal-incorporated fabrics. The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the Song Dynasty of China [28,29]. The main materials for the Song Brocade fabric were the mulberry silk [30]. The Song Brocade fabric was mainly fabricated based on the two traditional types of weaving [29]. The weave of Song Brocade was weft backed, from two groups of warp and multiple groups of wefts. In details, one group was called the ground warp, which was made of refined and dyed mulberry silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospective alternative for the EMI fabrics. FigureFigure 2.2. TheThe opticaloptical imagesimages ofof thethe preparedprepared samplesampleS1 S1and andS2 S2under under standard standard light light source. source. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song 2.3. Characterizationfabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, and the other one 2.3. Characterization 2.3.1. Analysis of thewas Morphology woven by using of thethe Songsilver- Brocadeplated polyamide Fabric (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two 2.3.1. Analysis of thefabrics Morphology were fabricated of the with Song the Brocade same weaving Fabric structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) ap- The morphology of the Song Brocade fabric was characterized by using scanning The morphologypeared of asthe the Song surficial Brocade pattern. fabric The structurewas characterized similarity of by the using surficial scanning patterns of both electronic microscopysamples (SEM) were (VEGA investigated TESCAN via Python Inc., Licoln, software NE, [32]. USA) The EMI with property the voltage and the of ultraviolet 20electronic kV and themicroscopy laser optical (SEM) microscopy (VEGA TESCAN (LOM) (OLS5000 Inc., Licoln, LEXT, NE, Tokyo, USA) Japan). with the Since voltage it was of 20 kV and the laser(UV) optical shielding microscopy of both (LOM) samples (OLS5000 were evaluated. LEXT, TheTokyo, surface Japan). resistance Since itof was both samples not the single layerwas of also the twomeasured. designed Besides, Song the Brocade air permeability fabrics, and the the surficial textile structuremoisture evapor was ation rate not the single layer of the two designed Song Brocade fabrics, the surficial structure was the objective whichof appeared samples were in the measured. expected ‘ ’ patterns, the structural similarity index 卍 measurementthe objective which (SSIM) appeared of the designed in the surficialexpected patterns ‘ ’ patterns, (Figure the2) wasstructural calculated similarity via Python index softwaremeasurement (Version (SSIM) 3.9.6, of Beaverton, the designed OR, USA)surficial [23 patterns]. By transforming (Figure 2) thewas photos calculated into vectors,via Py- thethon comparison software (Version was carried 3.9.6, out Beaverton, and the cosine OR, USA) distance [23]. (ranged By transforming from 0 to 1)the based photos on into the meanvectors, values, the comparison variances and was covariance carried out between and the arrays cosine of distance imagepixels (ranged was from obtained. 0 to 1) Ifbased the cosine distance was close to 1, the higher structural similarity between the two surficial patterns was found. Besides, the energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) was also used to characterize the Ag-PA distribution in the sample S2.

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 5 of 16

on the mean values, variances and covariance between arrays of image pixels was obtained. If the cosine distance was close to 1, the higher structural similarity between the two surficial patterns was found. Besides, the energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) was also used to characterize the Ag-PA distribution in the sample S2.

2.3.2. Evaluation of Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness (EM SE) The EM SE of the fabricated samples S1 and S2 were evaluated by using the E8257D signal generator (Keysight Technologies, Santa Rosa, CA, USA) and the E4447A spectrum Materials 2021, 14, 3779 analyzer (Keysight Technologies, Santa Rosa, CA, USA), which followed the standard5 of 16 SJ20524-1995 [33]. The device was schemed in Figure 3A. The electromagnetic waves in this measurement ranged from 30 MHz to 3000 MHz. Since the F-side and the B-side of both the sample S1 and the sample S2 were different in their inherent materials and fabric 2.3.2. Evaluation of Electromagnetic Shielding Effectiveness (EM SE) structures, the F-side and the B-side of both the sample S1 and the sample S2 were measured. TheThe EMmeasurementSE of the fabricated was performed samples under S1 and an S2external were evaluatedenvironmental by using condition the E8257D with thesignal room generator temperature (Keysight of 23 Technologies,± 2 °C and the Santa humidity Rosa, of CA, 65 USA)± 5%. andAs a the result, E4447A the EM spectrum SE is givenanalyzer by the (Keysight Equation Technologies, (1) as a logarithmic Santa Rosa, ratio between CA, USA), the which plane followedfield intensity the standard of radi- atedSJ20524-1995 wave P1 and [33]. plane The devicefield intensity was schemed of transmitted in Figure wave3A. The P2. electromagnetic The SE shielding waves percentage in this (measurementSE%) was also ranged evaluated from by 30 us MHzing tothe 3000 Equation MHz. (2): Since the F-side and the B-side of both the sample S1 and the sample S2 were different in their inherent materials and fabric structures, the F-side and the B-side of both the sample = 10 log ( S1 and/ the) sample S2 were measured. The(1) measurement was performed under an external environmental condition with the room ◦ temperature of 23 ± 2 C and the% humidity = 1 of 10 65±5%. 100% As a result, the EM SE is given(2) by the Equation (1) as a logarithmic ratio between the plane ﬁeld intensity of radiated wave P1 andIn addition, plane ﬁeld an intensityexperiment of was transmitted designed wave to evaluateP2. The nearSE fieldshielding communication percentage (NFC) (SE%) shieldingwas also evaluatedof the samples by using by the the built-in Equation NFC (2): data reading function in the mobile phone and the integrated circuit (IC) card. The details were shown in Figure 3B. By wrapping the IC card by the sample S1, and S2, SErespectively,= 10 log( Pthe1/ Psignal2) reception of the built-in data(1)

reading function in the mobile phone away from−SE the IC card with distance ranging from 0–40 cm was recorded. SE% = 1 − 10 10 × 100% (2)

FigureFigure 3. 3. EvaluationEvaluation of NFC shieldingshielding forfor thethe prepared prepared samples samples (( A((A):): The The standard standard measurement measurement and and (B): (B the): the measurement measure- mentwith mobilewith mobile phone phone and IC and card). IC card).

2.3.3. InEvaluation addition, of an Electrical experiment Conductivity was designed to evaluate near ﬁeld communication (NFC) shieldingIt was ofnoticed the samples that there by were the built-in various NFC method datas to reading evaluate function the electrical in the mobileconductivity. phone Theand two the integratedprobes method circuit was (IC) considered card. The as details the most were common shown inway Figure to measuring3B. By wrapping the re- sistancethe IC card of the by conductive the sample S1,materials and S2, [34]. respectively, In this case, the the signal surface reception conductivity of the built-in (Ω) of datathe Songreading Brocade function fabric in was the mobilemeasured phone according away fromto the the two IC probes card with method distance by using ranging the RMS from mini0–40 multimeter cm was recorded. (EXTECH, Waltham, MA, USA). 2.3.3. Evaluation of Electrical Conductivity 2.3.4. Evaluation of Ultraviolet (UV) Shielding It was noticed that there were various methods to evaluate the electrical conductivity. The UV shielding of the prepared samples was evaluated by using the YG(B)912E The two probes method was considered as the most common way to measuring the textileresistance ultraviolet of the conductivetester (Wenzhou, materials China), [34]. Inaccording this case, to the standard surface conductivityGB/T 18830-2009 (Ω) of[35]. the TheSong measurement Brocade fabric was was performed measured under according an external to the two environmental probes method condition by using with the RMS the temperaturemini multimeter of 20 (EXTECH, ± 2 °C and Waltham, the humidity MA, of USA). 65 ± 5%. The wavelength ranged from 280

2.3.4. Evaluation of Ultraviolet (UV) Shielding The UV shielding of the prepared samples was evaluated by using the YG(B)912E textile ultraviolet tester (Wenzhou, China), according to standard GB/T 18830-2009 [35]. The measurement was performed under an external environmental condition with the temperature of 20 ± 2 ◦C and the humidity of 65 ± 5%. The wavelength ranged from 280 nm to 400 nm was used and the transmission with intervals of 5 nm was recorded. The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values of the samples were calculated by using the built-in software [36]. Each sample was measured for 5 times for the statistical analysis. Materials 2021, 14, 3779 6 of 16

2.3.5. Evaluation of Air Permeability The air permeability of the prepared samples was evaluated by using YG(B)461E digital fabric permeability tester (Wenzhou, China), according to standard GB/T 5453- 1997 [37]. The measurement was performed under an external environmental condition with the temperature of 20 ± 2 ◦C and the humidity of 65 ± 5%. Each sample was measured for 5 times for the statistical analysis.

2.3.6. Evaluation of Moisture Evaporation Rate The moisture evaporation rate of the samples was evaluated by using DR290G textile moisture evaporation rate tester (Wenzhou, China), according to standard GB/T 21655.1- 2008 [38]. The measurement was performed under an external environmental condition with the temperature 20 ± 2 ◦C and the humidity of 65 ± 5%. The samples were placed in the sink with water for 10 min. Then, the sample was taken out and dried naturally. The mass of the wetted sample was recorded each 5 min until the change of the mass was not more than 1% for two consecutive weighing. Each sample was measured for 5 times for the statistical analysis.

3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Morphology of the Designed Pattern Figures4 and5 presented the morphologies of the sample S1 and sample S2. The different weaving structures (weave 1 and weave 2) were obviously observed. Since the weave 3 was set as the cross-hatching pattern, it appeared as a line. In detail, all the weaving structures of both sides in the designed two Song Brocade fabrics were observed as same, which corresponded to Figure1. Additionally, there was a visible difference in the comparison between the back sides of the two designed Song Brocade fabrics. The main reason was caused by the different fineness values of the yarns. The calculated SSIM value for the comparison between the sample S1 and the sample S2 was calculated as 0.987, which supported the patterns of the two fabrics were similar. From this point, both the Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEWweaving structure and the surficial patterns were not significantly affected7 of by 16 the yarn

types in the Song Brocade fabric structure.

Figure 4. 4. MorphologyMorphology of ofthe the two two Song Song Brocade Brocade fabrics fabrics from from SEM SEM ((A,A’ ((A): ,theA’): front thefront side and side back and back side side of sample S1; (B,B’): the front side and back side of sample S2). of sample S1; (B,B’): the front side and back side of sample S2).

Figure 5. Morphology of the two Song Brocade fabrics from LSM ((A,A’): the front side and back side of sample S1; (B,B’): the front side and back side of sample S2).

Figure 6 provided the elements of the sample S1 and the sample S2. Obviously, only the sample S2 had the Ag components. Besides, it was found that the back side of the sample S2 had the Ag content of 9.8 wt%, which was higher than the sample S1 with the Ag content of 2.6 wt%, which was consistent with the Song Brocade fabric structure. More Ag-PA yarns were distributed in the back side of the sample S2. Besides, there were other

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 7 of 16

Materials 2021, 14, 3779 7 of 16 Figure 4. Morphology of the two Song Brocade fabrics from SEM ((A,A’): the front side and back side of sample S1; (B,B’): the front side and back side of sample S2).

FigureFigure 5.5.Morphology Morphology of of the the two two Song Song Brocade Brocade fabrics fabrics from from LSM LSM ((A ,((A’A):,A’ the): frontthe front side andside backand sideback ofside sample of sample S1; (B S1;,B’ ):(B the,B’): front the front side andside back and sideback ofside sample of sample S2). S2).

FigureFigure6 6 provided provided the the elements elements of of the the sample sample S1 S1 and and the the sample sample S2. S2. Obviously, Obviously, only only thethe samplesample S2S2 hadhad thethe AgAg components.components. Besides,Besides, itit waswas foundfound thatthat thethe backback sideside ofof thethe Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 8 of 16 samplesample S2S2 hadhad thethe AgAg contentcontent ofof 9.89.8 wt%,wt%, whichwhich waswas higherhigher thanthan thethe samplesample S1S1 withwith thethe AgAg contentcontent ofof 2.62.6 wt%,wt%, whichwhich waswas consistentconsistent withwith thethe SongSong BrocadeBrocade fabricfabric structure.structure. MoreMore Ag-PAAg-PA yarnsyarns werewere distributeddistributed in in the the backback sidesideof ofthe thesample sampleS2. S2. Besides,Besides, therethere werewere otherother componentscomponents (e.g., (e.g., Mo, Mo, S, Si, S, Si,Ca, Ca, Rb, Rb, Cu, Cu, Ti…) Ti. .to . ) be to bedetected, detected, which which was was contributed contributed from from thethe dyes dyes and and pigments pigments on onthe the yarns. yarns.

Figure 6. Cont. A’

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 8 of 16

components (e.g., Mo, S, Si, Ca, Rb, Cu, Ti…) to be detected, which was contributed from the dyes and pigments on the yarns.

Materials 2021, 14, 3779 8 of 16

A’

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B’

FigureFigure 6. 6.SEM-EDXSEM-EDX results results for for both both sides sides of of two Song BrocadeBrocade fabricsfabrics (( ((AA,A’,A’):): the the front front side side and and back backside side of sampleof sample S1; S1; (B, B’(B):,B’ the): the front front side side and and back back side side of sampleof sample S2). S2).

3.2. Analysis of EMI Shielding Figure 7 presented the EM SE values with the frequency values ranging from 30 MHz to 3000 MHz of the two Song Brocade fabrics. It was found that the sample S1 has very small the EM SE values (<10 dB) over the whole frequency, while the sample S2 has the EM SE value ranging from 40 dB to 55 dB which was comparable with some published research works related to EMI fabric [22–26]. In detail, there was an obvious peak over the whole frequency for both sides of the sample S1. The main reason may be the Song fabric structure and the inherent property dyes of the different yarns. For the sample S2, there was also an obvious peak for the back side of the sample S2 (S2-B) while there was no peak at the same frequency for the front side of the sample S2 (S2-F). The main reason could be caused by the more content of the Ag-PA yarns in the back side than the front side of the sample S2. Especially, the calculated EM SE values and the SE% values of the sample S2 at the selected frequency were shown in Table 4. It was found that the SE% values of the sample S2 were 99.99% at the selected frequency. According to the common classification, the sample S2 (the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric) was evaluated in the ‘excellent’ category for both general and professional use.

Figure 7. EM SE values versus frequency of EM curves for the Song Brocade Fabrics.

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 9 of 16

B’

Materials 2021, 14, 3779 9 of 16 Figure 6. SEM-EDX results for both sides of two Song Brocade fabrics ((A,A’): the front side and back side of sample S1; (B,B’): the front side and back side of sample S2).

3.2.3.2. Analysis of EMI ShieldingShielding FigureFigure7 7 presented presented the the EM EM SESE valuesvalues withwith thethe frequencyfrequency valuesvalues rangingranging fromfrom 3030 MHzMHz toto 30003000 MHzMHz ofof thethe twotwo SongSong BrocadeBrocade fabrics.fabrics. ItIt waswas foundfound thatthat thethe samplesample S1S1 hashas veryvery smallsmall thethe EMEM SESE valuesvalues (<10(<10 dB) overover thethe wholewhole frequency,frequency, whilewhile thethe samplesample S2S2 hashas thethe EMEM SESE valuevalue rangingranging fromfrom 4040 dBdB toto 5555 dBdB whichwhich waswas comparablecomparable withwith somesome publishedpublished researchresearch worksworks relatedrelated toto EMIEMI fabricfabric [[22–26].22–26]. InIn detail,detail, therethere waswas anan obviousobvious peakpeak overover thethe wholewhole frequencyfrequency forfor bothboth sidessides ofof thethe samplesample S1.S1. TheThe mainmain reasonreason maymay bebe thethe SongSong fabricfabric structurestructure andand thethe inherentinherent propertyproperty dyesdyes ofof thethe differentdifferent yarns.yarns. ForFor thethe samplesample S2,S2, therethere waswas alsoalso an an obvious obvious peak peak for for the the back back side side of theof the sample sample S2 (S2-B) S2 (S2-B) while while there there was nowas peak no atpeak the at same the frequencysame frequency for the for front the side front of theside sample of the S2sample (S2-F). S2 The (S2-F). main The reason main could reason be causedcould be by caused the more by contentthe more of content the Ag-PA of the yarns Ag-PA in the yarns back in side the than back the side front than side the of front the sampleside of the S2. sample Especially, S2. theEspecially, calculated the EMcalculatedSE values EM and SE values the SE %and values the SE of% the values sample of the S2 atsample the selected S2 at the frequency selected were frequency shown were in Table shown4. It wasin Table found 4. thatIt was the foundSE% valuesthat the of SE the% samplevalues of S2 the were sample 99.99% S2 atwere the selected99.99% at frequency. the selected According frequency. to theAccording common to classiﬁcation, the common theclassification, sample S2 the (the sample Ag-PA S2 yarn-incorporated (the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade Song fabric) Brocade was evaluatedfabric) was in eval- the ‘excellent’uated in the category ‘excellent’ for bothcategory general for andboth professional general and use.professional use.

FigureFigure 7.7. EMEM SESE valuesvalues versusversus frequencyfrequency ofof EMEM curvescurves forfor thethe SongSong BrocadeBrocade Fabrics.Fabrics.

Table 4. EM SE values of the sample S2 at selected frequencies.

Frequency EM SE/t SSE SSE/t EM SE (dB) SE% (MHz) (dB cm−1) (dB cm3 g−1) (dB cm2 g−1) 30 54.1 998.155 0.015 0.279 99.99 100 54.6 1007.380 0.015 0.281 99.99 300 54.4 1003.690 0.015 0.280 99.99 1000 54.6 1007.380 0.015 0.281 99.99 3000 52.1 961.255 0.015 0.269 99.99

Table 4. EM SE values of the sample S2 at selected frequencies.

SSE/t (dB cm2 Frequency (MHz) EM SE (dB) EM SE/t (dB cm−1) SSE (dB cm3 g−1) SE% g−1) 30 54.1 998.155 0.015 0.279 99.99 100 54.6 1007.380 0.015 0.281 99.99 300 54.4 1003.690 0.015 0.280 99.99 1000 54.6 1007.380 0.015 0.281 99.99 3000 52.1 961.255 0.015 0.269 99.99

Since the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric (sample S2) had the small thickness of 0.542 mm, the other parameters including the EM SE value normalized to the thickness (SE/t), the specific shielding effectiveness (SSE) and the absolute shielding effectiveness (SSE/t) were evaluated. In detail, the SE/t (dB cm−1), SSE (dB cm3 g−1) and SSE/t (dB cm2 g−1) were calculated according to Equations (3)–(5) and given in Table 4, where the h was the thickness and S was the areal density in Table 3. It was found that both SSE value and SSE/t value of the sample S2 at specific frequency was much smaller by comparing with other EMI fabrics [39,40], while the SE/t value was stable and higher than 960 Materials 2021, 14,dB 3779 cm−1. The difference was caused by the combination of the Song Brocade fabric com- 10 of 16 ponents and the Song Brocade fabric structure. There were three type yarns including the conductive Ag-PA yarns and two nonconductive silk yarns in the sample S2. As a result, SSE value and includingSSE/t value the were conductive significantly Ag-PA reduced. yarns and However, two nonconductive the Ag-PA silkyarns yarns were in the sample S2. orderly woven Asin the a result, fabric SSEstructurevalue and and coulSSE/td bevalue observed were along signiﬁcantly the thickness reduced. direction, However, the Ag-PA which contributedyarns to werethe higher orderly SE/t woven value: in the fabric structure and could be observed along the thickness direction, which contributed to the higher SE/t value: / = /ℎ (3) SE/t = EMSE/h (3) = /(ℎ ∙ ) (4) SSE = EMSE/(h·S) (4) / = /SSE/ t = EMSE/S (5) (5) Additionally, theAdditionally, measurement the of measurement the shielding of of the the shielding NFC data of reading the NFC by data using reading the by using the mobile and the mobileIC card and were the carried IC card out were to re carriedveal the out good to reveal compatibility the good of compatibility the prepared of the prepared silver yarn-incorporatedsilver yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric Songs Brocade with various fabrics products with various. Figure products. 8 presented Figure 8 presented the different situationsthe different of the situations data reading of the of datathe phone reading from of the the phone IC card from and the more IC details card and more details were given in thewere video given document in the video(Supplementa documentry Materials). (Supplementary As a result, Materials). the IC card As a was result, the IC card covered by thewas sample covered S2 and by thethere sample was S2no andsignal there shown was noin signalthe mobile shown phone, in the which mobile phone, which corresponded tocorresponded the EM SE analysis. to the EM SE analysis.

(a) (b) (c) (d) (e)

Figure 8. PracticalFigure 8. measurement Practical measurement with NFC functionwith NFC in function mobile phonein mobile ((a): phone the mobile ((a): the phone mobile read phone unprotected read IC cards, (b): the detailsunprotected of IC card, IC ( ccards,): wrapping (b): the IC details cards withof IC the card, sample (c): wrapping S2, (d): the IC reading cards with situation the sample of the mobileS2, (d): phonethe from the reading situation of the mobile phone from the wrapped IC card and (e): no signal response shown wrapped IC card and (e): no signal response shown on the mobile phone). on the mobile phone). 3.3. Evaluation of the Conductivity Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 17 By using the multimeter device, it was found that there was no value reading for the sample S1, while the values were found to range from 1 to 40 Ω for the sample S2. The results were consistent with the EMI results. protect electrical equipment and human body from these damages, the fabrics with en- Additionally, the S2 had the complicatedhanced electromagnetic structure, interference as described (EMI) in the have analysis. provided To a solution. These fabrics were reveal the electrical resistance stabilityusually of therealized sample by incorporating S2, the measurement the metal withmaterials different into the fabrics [8,9]. Shielding of distances between the measured pointsEM waves on both was sideshere achieved of the sample by the S2absorption was carried and reflection out. of EM radiation in the Since the sample was based on themetal ordered-incorporated weaving fabrics structures [10,11]. (weave 1, weave 2 and weave 3), the distance between the measured points was set according to the fabric weaves. Besides, it was noticed that the pattern ‘卐’ was based on the weave 1 and the area around the pattern ‘ ’ was based on the weave 2. Therefore, two measurements were carried out based on the weave 1, and weave 2, respectively. In detail, the center of the close pattern ‘ ’ on both sides was chosen asVarious one measured methods pointshave been (A used and for A’, the and preparation C and C’ inof metal-incorporated fabrics to enhance the EM shielding effectiveness (SE), including the coating method (dip coating, Figure9), and the straight line around the pattern ‘ ’ on both sides was chosen as the other the sputtering coating, the electroless plating…) and the weaving technology by using measured points (B and B’, and D andconductive D’ in Figure yarns9 [12). The–16]. distance Both the dip between coating the and two the closesputtering coating were convenient measured points was considered astoL prepare(2.5 cm). the Then, EMI fabric the changes. The electroless of the distance plating betweentechnology was realized based on the the two measured points was set as nLautocatalytic(n was the deposition integer). The and results simultaneous of the resistance reduction withwhere the metal ions in the bath different distances between the measuredwere reduced points werewith the given catalyst in Figure and was 10. suitable It was foundfor the thatpreparation of the ultralight EMI the maximum surface resistance of thefabric sample [17–19]. S2 H wasowever, less thanthe coating 30 Ω, technology which contributed altered surface to chemistry and permeabil- the excellent EM SE. Besides, the distanceity of the betweenfabric [20]. the The measured friction loss points was also had the little factor effect affecting the lifetime coated fabric on the surface resistance, which supportedfor EMI, which thehighly strongly stable depended electrical on the conductivity. bonding between In the metal materials and the fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI realized via the surface coating methods was significantly altered when compared with the uncoated fabrics, which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, the weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect of the porosity, thickness, yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with basic structure, like plain, twill, honeycomb, end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated patterns on the metal-incorporated fabrics. The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the Song Dynasty of China [28,29]. The main materials for the Song Brocade fabric were the mulberry silk [30]. The Song Brocade fabric was mainly fabricated based on the two traditional types of weaving [29]. The weave of Song Brocade was weft backed, from two groups of warp and multiple groups of wefts. In details, one group was called the ground warp, which was made of refined and dyed mulberry silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade fabric by using the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospective alternative for the EMI fabrics. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song fabrics woven by using the polyester (PET) yarns and the silk yarns, and the other one was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two fabrics were fabricated with the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surficial pattern. The structure similarity of the surficial patterns of both samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet (UV) shielding of both samples were evaluated. The surface resistance of both samples was also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate of samples were measured.

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3.3. Evaluation of the Conductivity By using the multimeter device, it was found that there was no value reading for the sample S1, while the values were found to range from 1 to 40 Ω for the sample S2. The results were consistent with the EMI results. Additionally, the S2 had the complicated structure, as described in the analysis. To reveal the electrical resistance stability of the sample S2, the measurement with different distances between the measured points on both sides of the sample S2 was carried out. Since the sample was based on the ordered weaving structures (weave 1, weave 2 and weave 3), the distance between the measured points was set according to the fabric weaves. Besides, it was noticed that the pattern ‘卐’ was based on the weave 1 and the area around the pattern ‘卐’ was based on the weave 2. Therefore, two measurements were carried out based on the weave 1, and weave 2, respectively. In detail, the center of the close pattern ‘卐’ on both sides was chosen as one measured points (A and A’, and C and C’ in Figure 9), and the straight line around the pattern ‘卐’ on both sides was chosen as the other measured points (B and B’, and D and D’ in Figure 9). The distance between the two close measured points was considered as L (2.5 cm). Then, the change of the distance between the two measured points was set as nL (n was the integer). The results of the resistance with different distances between the measured points were given in Figure 10. Materials 2021, 14, 3779 11 of 16 It was found that the maximum surface resistance of the sample S2 was less than 30 Ω, which contributed to the excellent EM SE. Besides, the distance between the measured points had little effect on the surface resistance, which supported the highly stable electri- caladdition, conductivity. the surface In addition, resistance the of surface the F-side resist wasance slightly of the higher F-side than was theslightly surface higher resistance than theof thesurface B-side. resistance The reason of the was B-side. that theThe B-side reason of was the samplethat the S2B-side had moreof the Ag sample content S2 thanhad morethe front Ag content side according than the to front the designedside according fabric to structure. the designed fabric structure.

Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 12 of 16

FigureFigure 9. 9. DescriptionDescription for for the the measurement measurement of of the the surface surface resistance resistance of of the the sample sample S2. S2.

Figure 10.10. TheThe changechange ofof resistanceresistance withwith distancesdistances forfor thethe silver-incorporatedsilver-incorporated SongSong BrocadeBrocade fabricfabric (the(the samplesample S2).S2). 3.4. Evaluation of UV Shielding Property 3.4. Evaluation of UV Shielding Property The UV measurement of both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Figure 11, including The UV measurement of both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Figure 11, including the ultraviolet radiation A (UVA), the ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) and the ultraviolet the ultraviolet radiation A (UVA), the ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) and the ultraviolet radiation C (UVC). The sample S1 and S2 shared the similar plot of the transmittance radiation C (UVC). The sample S1 and S2 shared the similar plot of the transmittance against wavelength. In details, the UVA and UVB transmission and the UPF values of both against wavelength. In details, the UVA and UVB transmission and the UPF values of sample S1 and S2 were shown in Table5 The sample S1 had the UPF value of 206.64 and both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Table 5 The sample S1 had the UPF value of 206.64 the sample S2 had the UPF value of 196.22. Usually if the UPF value of the fabric was equal and the sample S2 had the UPF value of 196.22. Usually if the UPF value of the fabric was to or higher than 50, the block from the 98% UV radiations was realized. Therefore, both S1 equal to or higher than 50, the block from the 98% UV radiations was realized. Therefore, and S2 had the excellent UV shielding from this point. both S1 and S2 had the excellent UV shielding from this point.

Figure 11. The UV transmittance of the Song Brocade fabrics with and without Ag-PA yarns over 290–400 nm.

Table 5. Results of UV shielding effectiveness from Figure 11.

Sample Code UVA Transmission (%) UVB Transmission (%) UPF S1 0.51 ± 0.03 0.51 ± 0.02 206.64 ± 8.86 S2 0.54 ± 0.01 0.53 ± 0.02 196.22 ± 4.75

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Figure 10. The change of resistance with distances for the silver-incorporated Song Brocade fabric (the sample S2).

3.4. Evaluation of UV Shielding Property The UV measurement of both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Figure 11, including the ultraviolet radiation A (UVA), the ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) and the ultraviolet radiation C (UVC). The sample S1 and S2 shared the similar plot of the transmittance against wavelength. In details, the UVA and UVB transmission and the UPF values of both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Table 5 The sample S1 had the UPF value of 206.64 Materials 2021, 14, 3779 and the sample S2 had the UPF value of 196.22. Usually if the UPF value of the fabric12 ofwas 16 equal to or higher than 50, the block from the 98% UV radiations was realized. Therefore, both S1 and S2 had the excellent UV shielding from this point.

Figure 11. The UV transmittance of the Song Brocade fabrics with and without Ag-PA yarnsyarns overover 290–400 nm.

Table 5.5. ResultsResults ofof UVUV shieldingshielding effectivenesseffectiveness fromfrom FigureFigure 11 11..

Sample Code UVA UVATransmission Transmission (%) UVB UVB Transmission Transmission (%) UPF Sample Code UPF S1 0.51 ± (%)0.03 (%) 0.51 ± 0.02 206.64 ± 8.86 S2S1 0.54 0.51 ± 0.01± 0.03 0.51 0.53± 0.02 ± 0.02 206.64196.22± 8.86 ± 4.75 S2 0.54 ± 0.01 0.53 ± 0.02 196.22 ± 4.75

It was interesting that the sample S1 without Ag-PA yarns already had the higher transmittance in both UVA and UVB and its UPF value was also higher when compared with sample S2. For the UV shielding effectiveness, the inherent property of material and the fabric structure had the signiﬁcant effect. In this case, the UV shielding effectiveness of the sample S1 was attributed to the high areal density. By comparing with the S1, the sample S2 had the lower areal density although there were Ag-PA yarns inside. Then, it was hard to determine the contribution from the Ag-PA yarns to the UV shielding effectiveness.

Table 6. Results of air permeability.

Sample Code Air Permeability (mm/s) S1 34.06 ± 8.19 S2 99.42 ± 3.69

The main reason could be the difference in the yarn type, yarn density and the weaving structure of both samples, which was described in the Sections 2.1 and 2.2. The PET yarns for the sample S1 were 300 den and the Ag-PA yarns for the sample S2 were 90 den, while both samples had the same warp density values as well as the weft density values. Then, the porosity of the sample S2 was considered to be slightly higher than the sample S1. As a result, the sample S2 had the higher air permeability. Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 13 of 16

It was interesting that the sample S1 without Ag-PA yarns already had the higher transmittance in both UVA and UVB and its UPF value was also higher when compared with sample S2. For the UV shielding effectiveness, the inherent property of material and the fabric structure had the significant effect. In this case, the UV shielding effectiveness of the sample S1 was attributed to the high areal density. By comparing with the S1, the sample S2 had the lower areal density although there were Ag-PA yarns inside. Then, it was hard to determine the contribution from the Ag-PA yarns to the UV shielding effectiveness.

3.5. Air Permeability The measured air permeability of both sample S1 and S2 were shown in Table 6. It was found that the sample S1 had the air permeability of 34.06 mm/s and the sample S2 had the air permeability of 99.42 mm/s. Therefore, the sample S2 had the better air permeability than the sample S1. The main reason could be the difference in the yarn type, yarn density and the weaving structure of both samples, which was described in the Sections 2.1 and 2.2. The PET yarns for the sample S1 were 300 den and the Ag-PA yarns for the sample S2 were 90 den, while both samples had the same warp density values as well as the weft density values. Then, the porosity of the sample S2 was considered to be slightly higher than the sample S1. As a result, the sample S2 had the higher air permeability.

Table 6. Results of air permeability.

Sample Code Air Permeability (mm/s) Materials 2021, 14, 3779 S1 34.06 ± 8.19 13 of 16 S2 99.42 ± 3.69

3.6. Evaluation of Water Evaporation The water evaporation of both sample S1 and sample S2 in 1 h werewere recordedrecorded andand shown in Figure 1212.. Additionally, twotwo formulasformulas werewere modeledmodeled toto characterizecharacterize thethe waterwater evaporation according to to the the standard standard GB/T GB/T 21655.1-2008, 21655.1-2008, which which was was shown shown in inTable Table 7.7 It. Itwas was found found that that the the sample sample S1 S1 had had the the evaporation evaporation rate rate of 1.709 g/h,g/h, which was higherhigher than the sample S2 withwith evaporationevaporation raterate ofof 1.4861.486 g/h.g/h.

Figure 12. Evaluation of water evaporation rate of the sample S1 and S2.

Table 7. Evaporation rate of the sample S1 and S2.

Evaporation Rate Sample Code Formula R2 (g/h) S1 y = 0.075 + 1.709x 0.999 1.709 S2 y = 0.621 + 1.486x 0.992 1.486

Similar as in the case of air permeability, the main reason could be the difference in the yarn type, yarn density and the weaving structure of both samples, which was described in the Sections 2.1 and 2.2. Both samples had the same fabric structure and the sample S1 had the lower porosity than the sample S2. The remaining water in the sample S1 was considered to be less than the sample S2. Besides, the PET yarns were used in the sample S1, while the Ag-PA yarns were used in the sample S2. The interaction between the surface of the PET yarns and the water was much lower than the interaction between the surface of the Ag-PA yarns and the water. Therefore, it was easier for the water evaporation from the sample S1 than from the sample S2.

Table 7. Evaporation rate of the sample S1 and S2.

Sample Code Formula R2 Evaporation Rate (g/h) S1 y = 0.075 + 1.709x 0.999 1.709 S2 y = 0.621 + 1.486x 0.992 1.486

Similar as in the case of air permeability, the main reason could be the difference in the yarn type, yarn density and the weaving structure of both samples, which was described in the Sections 2.1 and 2.2. Both samples had the same fabric structure and the sample S1 had the lower porosity than the sample S2. The remaining water in the sample S1 was considered to be less than the sample S2. Besides, the PET yarns were used in the sample S1, while the Ag-PA yarns were used in the sample S2. The interaction between the surface of the PET yarns and the water was much lower than the interaction between the surface of the Ag-PA yarns and the water. Therefore, it was easier for the water evaporation from the sample S1 than from the sample S2.

4. Conclusions In this work, the Song Brocade fabrics with and without Ag component were successfully fabricated. It was found that the incorporation of the Ag-PA yarns into the Song Brocade fabric did not affect the surficial pattern. It was found that the surface resistance of the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric less than 40 Ω and was highly stable on both sides, which contributed to the excellent electromagnetic shielding with EM SE value higher than 54 dB. Since the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated Song Brocade fabric consisted of the Ag-PA yarns and two silk yarns, the specific shielding effectiveness and ab- soluteMaterials shielding 2021, 14, x FOR effectiveness PEER REVIEW were much lower. However, the well-distribution of the Ag- 2 of 17 PA yarn in the Song Brocade fabric contributed to the high SE/t value. The practical test Materials 2021, 14, 3779 that the signal reading from the IC card covered by the Ag-PA yarn-incorporated14 Song of 16 Brocade fabric to the phone protectwas totally electrical failed, equipment which corresponds and human body to the from results these of damages, the EMI the fabrics with en- analysis. The UPF values ofhanced the prepared electromagnetic two Song interference Brocade fabrics(EMI) have were provided higher thana solution. 195, These fabrics were which supported the excellentusually UV realizedshielding by ef incorporatingfectiveness. theAdditionally, metal materials both into the theair fabricsper- [8,9]. Shielding of themeability excellent value UV shieldingand the water effectiveness.EM evaporationwaves was Additionally, here rate achieved value bothof by the thethe Song airabsorption permeability Brocade and fabric reflection value without and of EM radiation in the theAg watercomponent evaporation was lower. rate The valuemetal main- ofincorporated the reason Song was Brocadefabrics caused [10,11]. fabric by the without different Ag yarn component types in was two lower.fabrics. The main reason was caused by the different yarn types in two fabrics. 卐 ExceptExcept forfor thethe samplesample withwith ‘‘卐’’ as as surficial surficial pattern pattern shown shown in in this this work, work, the the other other Song Song Brocade fabric type with Ag-PA yarns was shown in Figure 13. The surficial pattern was Brocade fabric type with Ag-PA yarns was shown in Figure 13. The surficial pattern was moremore complicated,complicated, which which consisted consisted of of the the ‘flower’ ‘flower’ shapeshape andand ‘‘卐’’ shape. shape. WeWe proposed proposed that that the functional Song Brocade fabricVarious could methods be applied have been in the used personal for the preparation protection of and metal the-incorporated fabrics to the functional Song Brocadeenhance fabric thecould EM beshielding applied effectiv in theeness personal (SE), including protection the andcoating the method (dip coating, industrial applications. industrial applications. the sputtering coating, the electroless plating…) and the weaving technology by using conductive yarns [12–16]. Both the dip coating and the sputtering coating were convenient to prepare the EMI fabrics. The electroless plating technology was realized based on the autocatalytic deposition and simultaneous reduction where the metal ions in the bath were reduced with the catalyst and was suitable for the preparation of the ultralight EMI fabric [17–19]. However, the coating technology altered surface chemistry and permeability of the fabric [20]. The friction loss was also the factor affecting the lifetime coated fabric for EMI, which strongly depended on the bonding between the metal materials and the fibers. Furthermore, the surficial patterns of the metal-incorporated fabrics with EMI realized via the surface coating methods was significantly altered when compared with the uncoated fabrics, which strongly limited such metal-incorporated fabrics for the industry rather than the daily use. Besides, the moisture content in the room condition was also a factor to affect the stability of EMI fabric [21]. Opposing to the various coating methods, the weaving method by using conductive yarns to prepare the EMI fabrics could provide

a series solution for the problems. However, various research work focused on the effect FigureFigure 13.13.The The otherother SongSong BrocadeBrocadeof the fabricfabric porosity, withwith Ag-PA Ag-PAthickness, yarns. yarns. yarns type and layers of the EMI fabrics on the final EM SE [9,22–27]. It was also concluded that the fabrics with conductive yarns were woven with Supplementary Materials: Thebasic following structure, are a.vailable like plain, online twill, athoneycomb, https://www.mdpi.com/article/ end satin etc. Since the fabric structure was 10.3390/ma14143779/s1. simple, the visible surficial patterns of the EMI fabrics were limited, which had less attraction for the customers. To date, there have been a few reports related to the complicated Author Contributions: Conceptualization,patterns on X.Z.the metal (Xiuling-incorporated Zhang) and fabrics. Z.J.; Data curation, X.Z. (Xiuling Zhang), L.H. and K.Y.; Formal analysis, X.Z. (Xiuling Zhang); Funding acquisition, J.M.; Investigation, The Song Brocade fabric was based on the unique structure, which arose from the X.Z. (Xiuling Zhang), L.H. and X.Z.Song (Xinyi Dynasty Zhou); of China Methodology, [28,29]. The X.Z. main (Xiuling materials Zhang); for Project the Song admin- Brocade fabric were the istration, J.M.; Resources, Z.J.; Software,mulberry X.Z. silk (Xiuling [30]. The Zhang) Song andBrocade X.Z. (Xinyifabric Zhou);was mainly Supervision, fabricated Z.J., based on the two tra- D.K. and J.M.; Validation, X.Z. (Xiulingditional Zhang),types of Z.J., weaving K.Y., D.K.[29]. andThe J.M.; weave Visualization, of Song Brocade X.Z. (Xiuling was weft backed, from two Zhang); Writing—original draft,groups X.Z. of (Xiuling warp and Zhang); multiple Writing—review groups of wefts. & editing,In details, X.Z. one (Xiuling group was called the ground Zhang) and J.M. All authors havewarp, read which and agreed was made to the of publishedrefined and version dyed mulberry of the manuscript. silk, and the other group was called the face warp, which was usually made of a fine single raw silk. The ratio of the ground Funding: This work was supported by the research project ‘Hybrid Materials for Hierarchical warp and face warp was mostly 3, and sometimes the ratio could be 2, 4, 6 etc. [31]. Com- Structures’ (HyHi, Reg. No. CZ.02.1.01/0.0/0.0/16_019/0000843) granted by the Ministry of Educa- pared with the basic fabric structure, various patterns of the Song Brocade fabrics could tion, Youth and Sports of the Czech Republic and the European Union—European Structural and be prepared by adjusting the number of the weaving cycles, including the pattern of ‘key Investment Funds in the Frames of Operational Programme Research, Development. brick’, ‘swastika’, and ‘shou’ etc. From this point of view, the weaving of the Song Brocade Institutional Review Board Statement:fabric by Notusing applicable. the metal-incorporated yarns was the prospective alternative for the EMI fabrics. Informed Consent Statement: Not applicable. In this work, two Song Brocade fabrics were successfully prepared. One was the Song Data Availability Statement: Datafabrics is contained woven by within using thethearticle polyester or Supplementary (PET) yarns and Material. the silk yarns, and the other one was woven by using the silver-plated polyamide (Ag-PA) yarns and the silk yarns. Two Conflicts of Interest: The authorsfabrics declare were no fabricated conflict of withinterest. the same weaving structure where the ‘swastika’ (卐) appeared as the surficial pattern. The structure similarity of the surficial patterns of both References samples were investigated via Python software [32]. The EMI property and the ultraviolet 1. Kramarenko, A.V.; Tan, U. Effects of high-frequency electromagnetic(UV) shielding fields on of human both samples EEG: A brainwere mappingevaluated. study. The Int.surface J. Neurosci. resistance of both samples 2009, 113, 1007–1019. [CrossRef] was also measured. Besides, the air permeability and the textile moisture evaporation rate 2. Sırav, B.; Seyhan, N. Effects of GSM Modulated Radio-Frequencyof samples Electromagnetic were measured. Radiation on Permeability of Blood–Brain Barrier in Male & Female Rats. J. Chem. Neuroanat. 2016, 75, 123–127. [CrossRef] 3. Cvetković,M.; Poljak, D.; Hirata, A. The Electromagnetic-Thermal Dosimetry for the Homogeneous Human Brain Model. Eng. Anal. Bound. Elem. 2016 63 , , 61–73. [CrossRef] 4. Zhang, X.; Jin, Z. A Kind of Song Brocade Fabric with NFC Data Masking Function Used for Making Purse. IOP Conf. Ser. Mater. Sci. Eng. 2018, 389, 012037. [CrossRef] 5. Coskun, V.; Ozdenizci, B.; Ok, K. A Survey on Near Field Communication (NFC) Technology. Wirel. Pers. Commun. 2013, 71, 2259–2294. [CrossRef] Materials 2021, 14, 3779 15 of 16

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