Textile Society of America Newsletter 25:2 — Spring/Summer 2013 Textile Society of America

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Spring 2013 Textile Society of America Newsletter 25:2 — Spring/Summer 2013 Textile Society of America

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Textile Volume 25 n Number 2 n Spring/Simmer, 2013 Society of America

New TSA Program: Textiles Close Up contents First event in this new series: For our inaugural workshop, is it…The installation is enrap- participants will join curator and turing, as intricately patterned 1 Textiles Close Up Indonesian Textiles TSA member Dr. Ruth Barnes as the Indonesian textiles and 3 From the President at the Yale University for an exclusive day-visit to the Borneo carvings that fill it.” 4 TSA News, TSA Study Tours Art Gallery Yale University Art Gallery, New After the gallery tour, par- Haven, CT, and its rich collec- ticipants will gather for an à-la- 7 TSA Member News May 16, 2013 tion of textiles from Indonesia. carte luncheon at the Union 9 In Memoriam: Irene Good The small-group visit begins at League Café. In the afternoon, extiles Close Up is a new the group travels with Ruth to 11 Textile Community News program developed by the Gallery, which recently re- opened to the public following YUAG’s off-site collections stor- 12 Exhibition Review, Book TSA as a way to engage T a major--and highly praised- age for a focused session exam- Reviews our members and provide an -expansion. Ruth will guide par- ining weavings from Lampung 14 Call for Papers: TSA Symposium opportunity to study close-up and Palembang (South Sumatra), 2014 selected groups of textiles. It ticipants through the newly built and installed Indo-Pacific and Java, Borneo and Sulawesi. A 15 Calendar: Conferences & is an ongoing series of one- or Asian galleries with their superb private reception will complete Symposia two-day workshops scheduled the day. throughout the year, aiming to textiles from South Sumatra, 16 Calendar: Exhibitions Ruth Barnes received a provide textile enthusiasts–cura- Sulawesi, Borneo and Sumba. 17 Calendar: Lectures, Workshops Ph.D. from the University of tors, art historians, educators, Writing of the Indo-Pacific & Tours Oxford, based on her research students, collectors–with rare galleries, the New York Times in eastern Indonesia. Her doc- opportunities to view, study and recently declared “If you need toral dissertation was published learn firsthand from textiles. one irrefutable reason for a visit as The Ikat Textiles of Lamalera: Renowned international experts [to the Yale Art Gallery], this with special access to leading museum and private collections will guide small groups in understanding the distinctive The Textile Society of America, materials, techniques, styles, Inc., provides an international culture and history of important forum for the exchange textile traditions. and dissemination of information about textiles worldwide, Ceremonial Weaving (Pua Kumbu). from artistic, cultural, late 19th century, Cotton with warp-ikat patterning. 122 x 183 economic, historic, cm. (48 1/16 x 72 1/16 in.), Yale political, social, and University Art Gallery. Gift of Gerry technical perspectives. Masteller. A Study of an Eastern Indonesian TSA members will be Have you visited tsa board of directors Weaving Tradition (Leiden, offered an early registration peri- TSA’s new website? OFFICERS E.J. Brill 1989). She has writ- od, announced on our website President ten extensively on Indonesian and via an email blast. Please he Textile Society of Elena Phipps weaving and related art forms. see the TSA website for further America’s website has a new tel 212/349-4485 T [email protected] From 1990 to the end of 2009 information. look, with new features and she was textile curator at the http://www.textilesociety.org/ improved navigation. The Home Vice President Roxane Shaughnessy Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, tours Page highlights coming attrac- tel 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 UK, where she focused on tions and links you to other parts [email protected] early Indian Ocean trade net- Textiles Close Up 2013 of the site. The Events page lists Recording Secretary works. She published Indian Schedule TSA events as well as other tex- Susan Brown Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: This inaugural year, we are pre- tile-related events. The Symposia tel 212/849-8455 [email protected] The Newberry Collection in the senting three workshops: section has the latest news about Ashmolean Museum (Oxford: Treasurer the upcoming meeting, and also Nina Olson Clarendon Press 1997) and co- May 16, 2013: Indonesian contains programs and papers [email protected] authored (with Rosemary Crill Textiles with Ruth Barnes at from previous Symposia. The Director of Internal Relations and Steven Cohen), Trade, the Yale University Art Gallery, News section contains informa- Ann Svenson Temple and Court: Indian Textiles New Haven, CT. tel 818/789-9691 tion, past newsletters and also [email protected] from the Tapi Collection (2002). October 25, 2013: Printed offers a Blog for members to Most recently she co-edited Director of External Relations Textiles in Europe and North share news and information. Use Michele A. Hardy with Mary Hunt Kahlenberg, tel 403/220-4137 America with curator Pamela the guest blog to post articles, Five Hundred Years of Indonesian [email protected] Parmal at the Museum of Fine tutorials, share research progress, Textiles. In January, 2010, she Arts, Boston, MA. or anything that might be of Past President left the Ashmolean and moved interest to the textile community. Patricia Hickman to Yale, where she now is tel 845/947-8735 November 2013 tbd: Ellyane Hutchinson is the TSA [email protected] Senior Curator of the Yale Interwoven Globe: Worldwide Website Coordinator. You can University Art Gallery’s newly Textile Trade, 1500-1800 reach her at DIRECTORS AT-LARGE Susan Bean endowed Department of Indo- with curator Melinda Watt [email protected] tel 978/745-1876 Pacific Art. and the exhibition’s curatorial [email protected] The workshop is limited to team at the Ratti Textile Center, Dominique Cardon 12 participants. See the Itinerary Metropolitan Museum of Art, tel (33) 4-66-85 24 84 on the TSA website for informa- NYC. [email protected] tion on meeting points and tour Jill D’Alessandro timing. tel 415/750-3533 [email protected] Textiles Close Up reflects Gerry Craig the TSA’s ongoing commit- tel 785/532-6605 ment to the exchange and dis- [email protected] semination of information about Sarah Fee textiles. In keeping with this WANTED! tel 647/347-9246 mandate, TSA is also pleased to [email protected] offer special workshop fees to Citations for the new TSA Bibliography Eulanda A Sanders tel 970/491-7356 student/new professional par- Please send your recent publications from [email protected] ticipants, and will also offer one 2011, 2012, and 2013 to: scholarship for each scheduled TASK REPRESENTATIVES [email protected] event. Due to the behind-the- TSA Website Coordinator Ellyane Hutchinson scenes locations of these events, [email protected] the number of participants at TSA Listserv Manager each event will be limited. Lydia Fraser [email protected] TSA Newsletter Editor Karen Searle [email protected] ‘Like’ TSA on Facebook! TSA Bibliography Editor Marlys McGuire he Textile Society of America’s Facebook page provides its followers with the latest [email protected] Tinformation on textile-related events, exhibitions and publications. The page is updated 2012 Shep Award Chair multiple times per week, keeping followers up-to-date on these happenings. To follow TSA, Lee Talbot simply hit the “Like” tab in the upper right hand corner of our page. If you are interested in [email protected] sharing information on our page, contact TSA’s Facebook administrator, Laura Camerlengo, TSA Symposium 2014 Chair Roy Hamilton through the website’s “Message” tab. [email protected]

2 tsa newsletter are in an exhibition or under access the Textile Bibliography, had a number of highly qualified Plexiglas vitrines. So please look and we hope to get it to mem- applicants to our job position for at our program schedule and bers very soon. Meanwhile, Executive Director of TSA and From The let us know what you’d like to Ellyane Hutchinson has been we will soon be able to present attend. If you can offer a similar dedicated to developing our our plan to you. TSA is growing, President opportunity in your own insti- adjunct website, which will make and we thank our members for tutions, we would like to hear all our transactions—like member- enabling this process. from you. ship renewals, registrations for Your support of TSA pro- We hope to offer three programs—and other activities vides the financial and intellec- Dear Members and Friends, or four events per year in the easier. We will be providing you tual backbone of the organiza- Textiles Close Up series. We have with details on this shortly. tion. Please consider helping us received a generous pledge from TSA’s 2012 Symposium financially: donations to TSA go pring is coming, and along Swith it, many new programs Textile Arts, Santa Fe, NM, to Proceedings are in the editing directly toward building our pro- and plans for TSA. Our TSA help support this program, which stage, and Board member Ann grams, awards and scholarships. Board just met in NYC in will enable us to offer a scholar- Svenson will be finalizing and Last year, TSA offered over 50 March, and has been working ship and discounted registrations uploading the publication to scholarships and fee waivers for very hard to bring a number of for students and new profession- our UNL Digital Commons site students, new professionals and new ideas into action. Among als during its initial year. shortly. And of course, plan- general members to participate in them is our Textiles Close Up Our 2013 travel programs ning is well underway for TSA’s the 2012 Symposium. We know th program. We are establishing are well on their way for the 14 Biennial Symposium in Los this has an impact, not only on this ongoing program to provide year. The Oaxaca tour was a Angeles, Sept. 10-14, 2014: the recipients, but on all who opportunities to learn from great success, thanks to our New Directions: Examining the attended, enriching the pool of knowledgeable professionals by wonderful tour leader (and TSA Past, Creating the Future. We knowledge and experience, and looking at textiles—close up! This member), Hector Menses, have a number of really exciting providing new perspectives and program draws from the skills Director of the Textile Museum programs under development. opportunities for interaction. and knowledge of our members, of Oaxaca. And, the Savannah/ The Call for Papers has just been Your support is very important who will generously open their Charleston tour, led by Jessica posted. (See page 14 and check to us. Become a sponsor and/ collections in various museums Smith, TSA member and profes- the TSA website for details.) We or contribute to your favorite around the country, and share sor at Savannah College of Art hope to have a truly dynamic TSA program or scholarship, or their expertise with us. As I am and Design, was also successful. Symposium that will address offer a gift TSA membership to someone who has spent my Board members Sarah Fee and critical issues for textiles, past and a friend or student. You can go professional life working hands- Susan Bean have put together future. It is not too early to start to our website, or write to me on with ancient textiles, I know a great slate of future trips, in- putting together your ideas for about what you would like to there is nothing like being able cluding a Study Tour focused papers, organized sessions and help support, and I will be happy to look under the microscope on Italian velvets (see page 4 panels! Roxane Shaughnessy to work with you to see how and examine closely the texture, for more details and reports on and Jill D’Alessandro have been we can work together to achieve structures, fibers, surfaces and recent tours). working on our Scholarship and your sponsorship goals. other qualities that cannot be We are also working to open Awards programs for our next Happy Spring to you all. experienced when the textiles communications with members Symposium events. Best, and to help facilitate conversa- Lots of developments are Elena tions and exchanges of ideas and occurring in our organization, Elena Phipps information. Our new website and we will keep you informed President, TSA 2011-2014 TSA Headquarters is a beginning, but we also hope as they become finalized. We [email protected] to examine other methods. Charlotte Cosby, Manager Those of you who check out TSA National Office our Facebook page will know TSA Member Services how active and informative that Registrar, Symposia, Study has become, thanks to Laura Tours, and Workshops Camerlengo and Eulanda PO Box 193 Sanders. And, our listserv in the Textile Society of America Middletown, DE 19709 past few weeks has been very 14th Biennial Symposium actively discussing the value of tel 302/378-9636 New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future fax 302/378-9637 these types of interchanges. Los Angeles, CA [email protected] Some of you may be missing http://www.textilesociety.org our TSA annual Bibliography— September 10-14, 2014 and just so you know, Marlys Your source for membership Watch for the latest information and Call for Papers McGuire has been working hard forms, study tour information, on the TSA website, to formulate some new ways to and the latest news. http://www.textilesociety.org/symposia

Spring/Summer 2013 3 TSA TSA Study News Tours

TSA Board Sees Fall Study Tour: Japanese Print Demo Italian Velvets

he TSA board held its semi- ark your Calendar: Tannual meeting in New York MA fall TSA Study Tour City in March. It was an exciting focusing on Italian velvets is and intense three days! There being planned for Oct. 10-20. was so much to talk about, The glorious 10-day tour will from our new Textiles Close Up delve into the mysteries of vel- series launching in May, to plan- vet weaving at the five leading ning for the 2014 Symposium silk ateliers in Florence, Zoagli, in Los Angeles, that three days Como and Venice. See master wasn’t enough, and the plan- velvet weavers at work at their ning continues by phone, Skype manual Jacquard looms, and and email. The group did take a learn from experts about major break to see a demonstration at museum archives and reserve Cooper-Hewitt’s Design Center velvet collections. The kick-off in Harlem, organized in conjunc- event will be a hands-on, in-studio tion with Curator Yuki Ikuta of day at the Fondazione Lisio the Mie Prefectural Art Museum in Florence, learning about the in Japan. Master katagami cut- design process and the different ter, Isao Uchida, re-interpreted velvet structures. a 19th-century stencil from The tour will be led by Top, Board members watch the screen printers in action: Above, katazome Cooper-Hewitt’s collection, and Barbara Setsu Pickett, Associate master Masao Aida and apprentice Ario Aida print the katagami design master katazome dyer, Masao on silk. Professor Emeritus in the Depart- Aida, along with his apprentice ment of Art at the University of Ario Aida, demonstrated the Oregon, who has researched vel- Your Donations are Appreciated! application of resist paste and vet weaving and made velvet the dye to create a beautiful pat- It’s easy to support TSA and its award programs. focus of her artwork for 30 years. terned silk. Make your generous donations online at: Her research has been supported – Susan Brown http://www.textilesociety.org/contribute by the Fulbright Commission, the National Endowment for the Arts, the Rockefeller Foundation, the Gladys Krieble Delmas Fund, the Institute for Turkish Studies and the San Francisco Asian Art Museum. Watch for details at: www.textilesociety.org/tours

Study Tour Reports by Scholarship Recipients: Lowcountry Tour

he recent TSA study tour, TTextiles of the Lowcountry: Charleston and Savannah, Collecting, Preserving, and Narrating, was my first, hopefully, of many. As Master screen cutter Isao Uchida cuts the screen for the printed silk at right. a senior graduating from the

4 tsa newsletter University of Kansas this May, After our time at the Georgian revival architecture I am fairly new to the textiles Charleston Museum, we toured with slave-culture marks and community and very new to the Old Slave Mart Museum, messages, discussing the history TSA, so I was very excited about learning about the history of of the city’s heritage through attending this Study Tour. I had buying, selling, and trading of select narratives and architecture, very little idea of what it would enslaved people in Charleston as well as racialized practices and be like. What I experienced between 1856 and 1863. We ideologies in the US. was an immersion into the con- then visited the Avery Institute, The second group of speak- temporary interpretations of an originally a school for former ers, Molly Lieberman, Tina Hicks, incredibly rich and varied cul- slaves opened in 1865, now the and Abigail Kokai, presented tural history. Tour organizer and center for research on African their project, “The Beloved leader Jessica Smith pulled from American History and Culture, Community,” that brought all her resources and contacts so where we were given a his- children from the West Broad creatively, and I feel as though I tory of the sweetgrass basket YMCA together with seniors have experienced a very unique and its weaving tradition in the Sweetgrass basket from the Avery from the Hudson Hill Golden view of the Lowcountry under Lowcountry. We finished our Institute’s collection. Age Program to create art quilts her guidance. day in Charleston with a home illustrating their communities. The William Jay in 1820. As Jessica is Our first day of the tour, studio tour of local textile artist, last speaker of the evening was a friend of the museum adminis- starting in Charleston, NC, took Susan Walker. Sharon Cooper Murray, a narra- trator, Cyndi Sommers, we were us to the Charleston Museum, Our second day began with a tor and storyteller of the Gullah taken through the front entrance where we were greeted by drive to Drayton Hall, the oldest culture. Sharon spoke about her of the house, given a wonderful Textile Curator, Jan Heister. surviving example of Georgian introduction to the Gullah cul- tour, and shown several rooms She had set up a special exhibit Palladian architecture in the US, ture and her promotion of the that were in the process of reno- for us of chintz appliqué cover- which began construction in 1738. Gullah tradition of Rag Quilting. vation and preparation for future lets from the early-mid 1800s, Our second destination of the The panel gave a wonderfully inclusion in the regular tour. We including a beautiful unfinished day was the Penn Center on varied view of historical and con- then toured the First African “Tree of Life” coverlet sewn by the beautiful SC sea island of St. temporary Lowcountry art and Baptist Church, notably the first Maria Boyd Schulz. We were Helena. The center was opened culture. brick building built by and for then taken up to the museum’s as one of the first schools for Our last day in Savannah enslaved blacks in Savannah. storage rooms to view a display freed slaves by the Unitarians was spent touring the SCAD For our last event of the of various samplers, crewel work, in 1864, and now serves as the campus. In the morning we were day we met at Poetter Hall (on whitework, weavings—even an primary center for the promotion invited to visit the studio of artist the SCAD campus) to attend early colonial block-printed toile. and preservation of sea island and and SCAD faculty member Liz the “Narrating the Lowcountry” It was such a treat to have Jan Gullah culture. Sargeant, after which we toured panel organized for us by Jessica. essentially to ourselves, and we The tour’s first day in the SCAD Museum with curator The first speaker, Jill Kinnear, were able to ask all the questions Savannah opened with a private Melissa Mesina, who gave us a showed her work, “Architecture we wanted. visit to the Owens-Thomas house, pre-view of Uta Barth’s gallery of the Lowcountry,” and spoke a regency style home built by exhibit, “...to draw with light.” about the combination of We finished our day with an extensive tour of the fibers and fashion buildings on the SCAD campus, meeting faculty and graduate students and attending the senior. fashion show critique. From a private visit to the storage rooms of the Charleston Museum, to tours of studios and conversations with contemporary artists, the Lowcountry Study Tour was more than I could have imagined. Jessica’s organization, leadership, and research created an incredible experience for everyone on the tour. We were able to experience the art and culture of the Lowcountry in such a unique and complete way, cer- tainly beyond expectation. Left, the tour group in front of Drayton Hall, Charleston, SC. Right, “Tree of Life” chintz appliqué coverlet – Caroline Howard (c. 1840, by Maria Boyd Schulz), from the Charleston Museum collection.

Spring/Summer 2013 5 Reflection on A Silk and extra- fine wool, such as Cultural Study Tour: vicuña-wool spin- Dyeing, Weaving, ning, reeling and and Embroidery in weaving, were the Oaxaca, Mexico epicenter of the study tour around or eight days a team of the areas where all Fseven, motivated by their generations within strong interest in textiles and the same family united by TSA’s coordination, play roles in this joined a textile study tour in production. Girls Oaxaca, one of the most cultur- and boys as young ally rich regions of southern as seven years Mexico. Using as bases Oaxaca old, motivated city and Teotitlan del Valle, the by their parents, trip expanded towards different weave lengths of areas of the state, with the aim textiles with great to observe and learn in situ from dexterity. Their the best craftsmen of their kind, parents, who see about the variety of weaving and in traditional weav- natural dyeing procedures prac- ing a hope for a ticed locally. With the help of better future, raise the tour organizer Eric Mindling, silkworms, weave the tour guide Ileana, and the complex hand- director of Oaxaca’s Textile wovens, and hand- Museum Hector Meneses, the finish them with visits around the area to selected knotted patterns, weavers were effectively coor- thus teaching the dinated in compliance with the next generation by special aims of the visit. by weavers who organize their example. The elders contribute Should one want to count, personal workshops in an almost the less physically demanding pre-industrial system, where it tasks, such as the reeling and Upper left, The Textile Museum in the purposes of the educa- Oaxaca City hosts an exhibit by is often it is expected that the spinning of both tional tour were three. Firstly, Laura Anderson Barbata. Center, to enrich our collective memory cycle of production is fulfilled After becoming acquainted the TSA Oaxaca group partakes of with the designs, materials and within the family: sourcing the with the geography of the area free mezcal and a serenade during techniques from the different raw material, spinning, reeling, and the type of textiles produced lunch. Photos by Mary O’Connor. areas of Oaxaca. The dyeing dyeing, weaving, hand-finishing in each district, it was of course Above, cochineal dyeing. Center, of wool, cotton and silk yarns or embroidering upon the same expected that we would want to Tamara Rivas, a lacemaker who has revived the craft in Mexico. using locally available materials— textile and then distributing via honor our inner collector, and plants, leaves, roots and inorganic emporium. In particular, the also to secure original craft-pieces Below left, a view of the silk weav- demonstrations of cochineal cul- for those we love back home, as ing villages on the Teotitlan del sources—and recipes, some dat- Valle mountainside. Below, master tivation and dyeing were among well as to support the local coming from the pre-Colombian era, weaver Fidel Castro works to clas- was extensively demonstrated the tour’s most useful highlights. munity, which is considerably sical music in his Teotitlan de Valle studio. Photos by Konstantinos Chatziantoniu.

Page 7: Top, Hector Meneses, Director of the Textile Museum of Oaxaca wel- comed the group to the museum. Below, Feather- yarn spun and woven by talented artisan Roman Gutierrez. Photos by Konstantinos Chatziantoniu.

6 tsa newsletter specialty boutiques. She has designed home textiles for indus- TSA try and consults on historical textile design and reproduction. Member In her creative research she explores the relationship of sur- News face design and garment form. https://www.facebook.com/ Gallery1639

Member “On the Temple Mount,” a recent tapestry by Judith Announcements “Urban Morning” by Regina Benson Kaia Johansen seeks con- is a rusted, burned, layered and Poxson Fawkes can be seen at tributions to the Costume stitched silk construction in a con- The Laura Russo Gallery, vex curve, 39” x 44” x 6”. Committee’s special project, Portland, OR. Judith’s book, Weaving a Life is also available “Clothes Tell Stories,”to be function of place as a source for launched at the Committee’s through the gallery. artistic inspiration. Regina’s work, www.laurarusso.com August meeting in Rio de Janeiro. “Urban Morning.” reflects on her dependent on the sales of textile This project, called an on-line physical and emotional experi- products. Pat Hickman, Junco Sato costume workbook, is a web- ence of being in city centers–sur- The names of Tamara, Moses, Pollack, and Karen Searle are based resource for museums, rounded by towering glass and Romano, Fidel, Arturo, and among the 17 artists included in students and the general public steel buildings, both absorbing Demetrio, among others, will “Repetition and Ritual: New about how to use costume to and reflecting the day’s light and be connected for us to brocade Sculpture in Fiber” at the tell stories. She seeks items that nearby landscapes. These par- weaving, embroidering, natural Hudgens Center for the Arts, might be used as illustrations or ticular towers evoke the burned dyeing, Mexican traditional food, Duluth, GA, Mar. 26-May 25. case stories. skeletons of the Twin Towers gilded decorated churches—of www.thehudgens.org [email protected] and adjacent buildings, standing a style that one can only come www.costume-committee.org like ancient ruins. In this work, across in Mexico—and green Pat Hickman’s solo exhibition, she used iron oxide harvested scenery with nice architectural Member Exhibitions “Afterthought: New Work-Fiber from rusted metals, along with settings. The textile study tour Sculpture” is on view Apr. 24- In 2012 Polly Barton showed the rusted objects themselves, to in Oaxaca let us become more May 18 at Phoenix Gallery, NYC. work in “Sourcing the Museum” give singular and original marks educated about textiles, took us phoenixgallery.com curated by Jack Lenor Larson on layers of silk. further into remote areas, and www.pathickman,com at The Textile Museum (DC), http://www.westword. allowed us to collect material and the “Sleight of Hand” show com/2013-02-28/culture/art-of- evidence of our memories of the The exhibition “A Fine Line” curated by Alice Zrebiec at the the-state-arvada-center/ experiences. Our experiences Denver Art Museum. This year juxtaposed the wire works of www.reginabenson.com from the trip will hopefully bring she exhibited at the Gail Martin Nancy Konigsberg with paint- us all back in Mexico for a fur- Gallery in NYC in April, and will ings by James Kennedy at the Anna Carlson’s MFA Exhibition, ther in-depth cultural exploration. have work at the Gravers Lane Flinn Gallery, Greenwich, CT “Designing the Self: Patterns of Apr. 8-May 1. –Konstantinos Chatziantoniu Gallery, Philadelphia, PA, Jun. Order and Disruption” is on view 4-29; and in the William Siegal www.nancykonigsberg.com at Gallery 1639 in St. Paul, MN, Gallery’s “New Projects Space,“ May 3-31. Her works address Santa Fe, NM, Jun. 7-Jul. 13. Chunghie Lee exhibits her how constructing and presenting She recently completed an Artist bojagi fabric works and instal- individual identity parallels the Residency at the Vermont Studio lations at the Korea Society, process of designing and produc- Center, Johnson, VT, Mar. 16-29. ing a textile and apparel collec- She will teach ikat techniques tion. Investigating the expressive this summer at the Mid-Atlantic qualities of printed and dyed Fiber Association conference, patterns combined with gar- Scranton, PA, Jun. 20-23. ment forms, the designed objects www.pollybarton.com explore the patterns of what we wear, and what happens when Regina V. Benson was juried those patterns are interrupted. into “Art of the State: Juried For 25 years, Anna has designed, Exhibition of Colorado, “Jan. produced, and sold a unique 24-Mar. 31, at the Arvada Art clothing collection in prestigious Center, Arvada, CO. On Mar. 9, Art/Craft shows, galleries, and Printed textile design by Anna she was a panelist discussing the Carlson.

Spring/Summer 2013 7 Unstructured Conversations” tion with her recent exhibition at Jul. 18 as part of the education at the New Bedford (MA) Art the University’s Design Gallery, series for the upcoming exhibit, Museum Mar. 1-Apr 5. “Digital Fibers Converse with “Out of Southeast Asia.” In her http://www. Neural Networks: Lia Cook: lecture, “Intricate Patterns–Simple newbedfordartmuseum.org Weaving and Innovation” (Feb. Threads, Looms of Southeast 1-Apr. 7), she conducted an Asia,” she describes the simple Adrienne Sloane has work interactive haptic study with Dr. looms used to create and store in “Down to the Wire” at the Joann Peck of the UW Business intricate pattern motifs and Attleboro Arts Museum, Apr. 13 School in relation to viewing art, compares the looms of Laos, –May 11, along with two other and specifically, woven cloth. Thailand, Cambodia, northwest New England artists. The information gathered will Vietnam and Burma. From On the Temple Mount, 2012, www.adriennesloane.com inform Lia’s future weaving. village wear to the royal work- linen inlay tapestry by Judith Poxon Fawkes, 34" x 33.5". http://www.designgallery.wisc.edu shops, weavers cleverly store pat- Lauren Whitley curated the terns in much the same way. A NYC, in “Bojagi: Color, Cloth & exhibition “Hippie Chic” on view Maggie Leininger will present hands-on exploration will allow Beyond,” Mar. 15-May 31. She at the Museum of Fine Arts, an artist talk, “A Network of attendees to experience making gave an artist’s talk on Mar. 14, Boston, Jul. 16-Nov. 11. The Intimacies,” on May 30 at Kala a set of dills for the khao nyai. and a workshop on Mar. 15-16. exhibit explores the exuberant Institute, Berkeley, CA, in con- [email protected] www.chunghielee.com fashions of the late 1960s and junction with her residency there early 1970s. The 50 ensembles May 13-Jul. 12. The talk con- Ann Marie Moeller gave the Elin Noble’s solo exhibit, by hip young designers and cerns her use of various textile Friends of Textiles Lecture, “Color Alchemy” was on view avant-garde boutiques feature construction methods to explore “Battles on the Bed: Russo- at the New Bedford (MA) Art materials (crushed velvet, eyelet, connections between place, per- Japanese War Victory Images on Museum, Feb. 14-Apr. 28. The satin, leather,), techniques and sonal interaction, and materiality. Japanese Picture Ikat (E-gasuri)” exhibit featured works from embellishments (tie-dye, patch- In addition, Maggie will present a at the Ruth Funk Center for the last decade, including three work, beads, and fringe), and new work, “Industrious Anarchy,” Textile Arts at Florida Institute of major series: the quilt series, styles (from psychedelic to retro) that explores situational weav- Technology on Dec. 4, 2012. “Fugitive Pieces;” the room instal- that reflect the era’s experimenta- ing at road-side stands across The Society of the Cincinnati lation, “Vox Stellarum;” and the tion, theatricality, and freewheel- the US as she creates psycho- at Anderson House Museum poetic wall hangings, “Lake at ing spirit. geographical cloth from local in Washington, DC hosted her Night.” Also on view were her http://www.mfa.org fibers obtained within a 50-mile lecture, “Pious Luxury: A Rare marbled fabric collages, “The radius of each region where the Japanese Monk’s Kesa (Mantel),” Leipzig Suite,” created during her Member Lectures and performance occurs. During the about a kesa constructed from recent stay in Leipzig, Germany. Workshops month of June, Kala Institute will 18th c. fabric on Apr. 12, 2013. A catalog is available through the The annual Ruth Ketterer Harris feature her new performance, http://textiles.fit.edu museum. Lecture for the Helen Louise “Critical Encounter(s),” that http://www. Allen Textile Collection at the explores the ephemeral passage Ann Peters’ proposed topic, newbedfordartmuseum.org University of Wisconsin-Madison of time embodied in the weaving “Learning from Destruction: was presented by Lia Cook on process. Patterns of Decay, Production Michael Rhode’s tapestries are Mar. 21. In a fall, 2012 residency http://www.kala.org Techniques, and Evidence for on view at the Wichita (KS) at the University, Lia consulted www.maggieleininger.com Use of Fiber Artifacts” was cho- Center for Arts, Apr. 5-May 10. with professors from the fields www.artivention.wordpress.com sen as the title for conference http//www.wcfta.com of mathematics, kinesiology, and of the Society for American developmental disabilities as part Deb McClintock, independent Archaeology (SAA), sponsored Adrienne Sloane and Ruth of her ongoing research that scholar on Southeast Asian by the Fiber and Perishables Marshall were among five art- combines scientific study and Weaving technology, will speak Working Group, Apr. 2.3-27, ists included in “Above the Din: artistic expression. In conjunc- at The Textile Museum (DC), 2014. A call for papers is open until Jun. 30. http://www.saa.org/Portals/0/ SAA/ABOUTSAA/interestgroups/ fiberperish

Adrienne Sloane will present several lectures and workshops on sculptural knitting this spring and summer: Snow Farm, Williamsburg, MA, May 25-27. http://www.snowfarm.org Monserrat College of Art, Maggie Leininger explores situational weaving at road-side stands across the US for her work, “Industrial Anarchy.”

8 tsa newsletter Beverly, MA Jun. 10-14, http://montserrat.edu/continuing- ed/summer-workshops In Metalwerx, Waltham, MA, Aug. 12 http://www.metalwerx.com/class Lion Brand Studio, NYC, Jun. 2 Memoriam www.lionbrandyarnstudio.com The Nordic Knitting Symposium, Roedding Folkhighschool, Denmark, Jun. 30-Jul. 6 http://www.roedding-hoejskole.dk Irene Good Arrowmont School of Arts & Crafts, Jul. 28-Aug. 3 t is with sadness that we www.arrowmont.org Ilearned of the passing of our Member Publications friend and colleague, Irene Good, on Feb 4. Regina Benson’s video pres- Irene’s research focused on ents her first experiment with Iran and Central Asia (includ- heat-sensitive thermochromic ing an active archaeological Washington, DC, “Across Confluence and Gorno-Badakhshan paint. After covering one of her fieldwork program in Tajikistan). the Spectrum: Exploring the Regions, Southern Tajikistan 19th textile designs with the paint and In her words: “ I specialize in Politics of Colour in Cloth.” European Association of South applying heat, the paint becomes archaeological textiles, studying Unfortunately, her health did not Asian Archaeologists Conference transparent to reveal the design. textile materials from several allow her to participate, though Proceedings, Ravenna 2007, pp. When the paint cools, the design vantage points… A material her panel did take place. (2011) disappears. An abbreviated bibliogra- perspective enables sharper “Textiles in the Ancient https://www.youtube.com/ phy of her work is listed below interpretation of value, sym- Near East” in “Potts, D. (ed.), watch?v=TVw_ZbYtbZk (some of which is available bolic resonance and other Companion to the Archaeology of semiotic domains in the mate- online through the website, Award: Jacqueline Davidson’s the Ancient Near East, Blackwells, rial record. From a physical http://harvard.academia.edu/ book, Nets Through Time: The (2011) and biochemical perspective, I IreneGood Technique and Art of Knotted utilize and sometimes modify This list demonstrates her inter- “When East Met West: Netting was awarded an high-resolution instrumentation ests in fibers and societies of the Interpretive Problems in Honorable Mention at the New and biochemical protocols in Ancient Near East and Western Assessing East-West Contact England Book Festival in Dec. order to identify organic textile China: and Exchange in Antiquity” 2012. Nets Through Time is the materials of a highly degraded in Betts, A.V.G. and Kidd, F. culmination of years of research Good, I., Mortazevi, M. and nature, to better understand and (eds.), New Directions in Silk Road and covers the entire history of Mishmasi, M., (2011), “Bronze more fully interpret information Archaeology, Proceedings of a nets from prehistoric sites to con- Age Textiles: a preliminary gleaned from rare archaeologi- Workshop held at ICAANE V, temporary fiber art. Knotted net- analysis of fragments discovered cal textile remains.” Madrid, 2006, Archäologische ting was used to produce utilitar- at Tepe Dasht, Sistan,” Iranian She worked on such rare Mitteilungen aus Iran und Turan ian nets for fishing, trapping, and Journal of Archaeological Studies, textiles as those from the gar- Vol. 42. (2010) carrying. The same technique 1, 2011 ments of Urumqi mummies, was adapted for making lace of “History of Textiles and their Western China, as well as the “Strands of Connectivity: several styles and might, in fact, Influence on Dress on the Iranian Salt man. Assessing the evidence for have been the earliest type of Iranian Plateau” in Encyclopedia Irene received her doctor- Long Distance Exchange of Silk lace. of Women’s Dress, Berg ate from the University of in Later Prehistoric Eurasia” Publishers, Oxford. (2010) http://www.netsthroughtime.com Pennsylvania in 1999, and since in Sherratt, S., Barrett, J. Bennett, 2001 had been an Associate J. and Wilkinson, T. (eds.), “Archaeological Textiles: A New publication date: October of the Peabody Museum at Interweaving Worlds: Papers review of current research” 2013. Julie Holyoke announces Harvard University. Most in Honour of Andrew Sherratt, Annual Review of Anthropology the publication by Bloomsbury recently, and until shortly before Oxbow Press. (2011) 2001, 30:209–26 Press of Digital Jacquard Design, her death, she was an AHRC the first textbook in decades on “Exploring Inner Asia’s High “New Evidence for Silk in the Research Fellow, Research the subject of figured textiles. Alpine Frontier: High Alpine Indus Valley” in Arcaeometry Laboratory for Archaeology and Intended for designers, artists, Transhumant Pastoralism, (50) 2009 the History of Art, University of weavers and educators, Digital Vertical Cultivation and Oxford, UK. “On the Antiquity of Pre- Jacquard Design is both a beauti- Environmental Archaeology” As a TSA Member, Irene Han Silk,” in Antiquity (69): ful resource for visual design, in “Frenez, D. and Tosi, M. had put together an organized 1995:959-68 and an indispensable guide (eds.), The Lower Vakhsh-Panj session for TSA 2012 in – Elena Phipps to the creative and technical

Spring/Summer 2013 9 processes required to produce Spun: Adventures in 13 Textile and Fashion Jacquard wovens. A pioneer in Textile Textiles at the Denver Projects Received the use of digital technologies Art Museum 2012 Coby Foundation for wovens, Julie has worked for Grants three decades as an educator at Community The Denver Art Museum universities and mills in Italy and (DAM) is preparing to unveil The Coby Foundation, the abroad, while designing interiors News its summer exhibition, Spun: nation’s only foundation to and fashion textiles for both Adventures in Textiles, on focus solely on grants to the industrial and handwoven pro- view May 19–Sept. 22. The fashion and textile field, awarded duction. She is currently affiliated GHHN Receives museum-wide exhibition blends $369,000 in 2012 to 13 organi- with the Lisio Foundation in Preservation Training ancient traditions and surprising zations located in the Northeast Florence, Italy. Grant innovations in textile arts. The and Mid-Atlantic states. This http://www.bloomsbury. extensive collection of artworks year’s awards attest to their com- com/uk/digital-jacquard- ranges from pre-Columbian Last fall, Greater Hudson mitment to new scholarship. design-9780857853455 weavings to modern fiber art; Heritage Network was awarded The Museum of Art at the Navajo blankets to an examina- $250,000 from the Institute of Rhode Island School of Design Young Brides, Old Treasures: tion of clothing in paintings and Museum and Library Services (RISD) received a grant to Macedonian Embroidered Dress, photography. (IMLS) to present preservation plan Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Men of edited by Bobbie Sumberg In celebration of the DAM’s training in connection with the Fashion, examining the impact with chapters by Macedonian new textile galleries, its inau- collection types identified as "at of figures from Beau Brummel, scholars, brings together exten- gural show, “Cover Story,” risk" in New York: books and Regency England’s arbiter of sive research and spectacular captures the essence of Spun. paper, photographic collections, fashion, to designer Ouigi photography in a volume based Featuring approximately 60 digital materials, and historic Theodore, present-day Brooklyn’s on the most comprehensive col- objects, “Cover Story,” provides objects. Training will be provided bearded dandy. The Museum lection in a US museum. 263 an intimate lens into the ways via webinars that are viewable at the Fashion Institute of pages, published by the Museum in which textiles have perme- independently or in groups to Technology (FIT) was awarded of International Folk Art, 2011. ated human life across time encourage discussion and net- funds for Queer Style: From the Available online or from the and space. Cultural aspects are working; web-based "How-To" Closet to the Catwalk, scheduled museum’s bookstore. explored in additional exhibi- video tutorials providing instruc- to open in Sept. 2013. This is http://worldfolkart.org http:// tions: “Irresistible” with intri- tion to organizational staff and the first exhibition and publica- worldfolkart.org cately dyed Asian textiles; “Red, to a more general audience who tion to explore the significant White and Bold: Masterworks Member Tours may have personal collections; a historical contributions to fashion of Navajo Design, 1840-1870” circuit rider mentoring program made by gay men and lesbians. Serena Harrigan’s Textile with outstanding Navajo rugs; where professionals offer 'house The Metropolitan Museum Odyssey Tours to southeast Asia the jeans-inspired “Western calls' to organizations statewide; of Art received a grant for its fall includes a fall tour to Northern Duds: How Clothing Helped and an interactive cross-disciplin- 2013 exhibition, The Interwoven Vietnam and Cambodia with an Create an Archetype;” and view ary knowledge portal website. Globe: Worldwide Textile Trade optional pre-tour to Central stories of social change through The new Connecting to 1500-1800. This inter-depart- Vietnam, in late Oct-early Nov. the photographs in “Common New York's Collections web- mental effort highlights an For details, email Serena at Threads: Portraits by August site is now live, with information important design story from a Textile Odyssey or visit, Sander and Seydou Keïta.” on collections care best practices, truly global perspective. The http://www.textileodyssey.com In addition, “Material World” information, and resources. Textile Museum in Washington, [email protected] provides social commentaries, http//www.c2cnys.org DC, was awarded funds for and “Transposition” focuses on The website will also be the the exhibition and catalog, The Art Workshops in Guatemala textiles and technology. landing page for webinars, "How- offers a textile tour with Karen http://www. To" videos, and information Searle to the ikat weaving center denverartmuseum. on the Circuit Rider Mentoring in Quetzaltenango, with time org program. spent at Lake Atitlan and in Antigua, Jul. 21-30. Information: http://www.artguat.org

Story of Travel offers in-depth Textile tours to India that include block printing classes., led by textile expert, Judy Frater, in Oct, Storage Bag (Chuval) (detail); Amu Darya River 2013 and Mar. 2014. For details, area, Uzbekistan or Afghanistan; late 1800s–early email: 1900s. Woven and knotted wool. Denver Art [email protected] Museum Neusteter Textile Collection: Gift of the Estate of Marie Therese Macy. 10 tsa newsletter Sultan’s Garden: The Blossoming wrote the second in a series of The 20,000-volume Arthur terms please go to: of Ottoman Art. exhibitions of battle flags used in D. Jenkins Library of Textile Arts http://online.internationalfolkart. Two Maine institutions the Civil War in commemoration also will be housed in the new org/macedonia.html received funds for significant of the War’s 150th anniversary: museum on GW’s Foggy Bottom or contact Cynthia Graves at projects. Woodlawn Museum 1862: Red, White and Battered, a campus. The Textile Museum 505.988.5839. and Gardens, Ellsworth, ME, was collaboration of NY State Parks exhibition “Out of Southeast awarded funding to preserve and and Military Museum staff- Asia: Art that Sustains,” on view Quebec Museum continue to exhibit one of the ers, and is on view at the State through Oct. 13, 2013, is the Reopens oldest and most significant uphol- Capitol in Albany. final exhibition in the current stered beds in the US. The “best http://www.cobyfoundation.org museum building. The Museum of Costume and bed,” purchased in Boston by The university and The Textile of Quebec opened Apr. Col. John Black, remains in the New Textile Museum Textile Museum broke ground 19 in its new location in a beau- room where it was first installed Director Appointed for the new museum last tiful building on the waterfront of Old Montreal. Since its found- in 1827. The Saco Museum was John Wetenhall has been October. The museum will be ing in Saint-Lambert in 1979, awarded funds for the exhibition appointed to be director of The located at G and 21st streets, the Museum has developed and catalog, I My Needle Ply with Textile Museum and the George NW, and is expected to be com- dynamically, increasing its col- Skill: Maine Schoolgirl Needlework Washington University Museum. pleted by fall, 2014. A conserva- lection to almost 7,000 objects of the Federal Era. In this capacity, he will lead the tion and collections resource cen- and becoming a reference in The Foundation gave awards development of the forthcoming ter at GW’s Virginia Science and clothing and textile history and a to two contemporary one-artist university museum as well as Technology Campus in Ashburn, laboratory for fashions, costumes exhibitions. It supported the ret- transition The Textile Museum to VA, also is under construction, to and textiles as artistic expression. rospective, Bound and Unbound: the GWU campus in fall, 2014. be completed in late 2013. “Tapis Rouge: Fashion at the Lin Tianmiao, at the Asia Society, Mr. Wetenhall has more than 20 Please Note: Beginning Oct. Museum” is the first exhibition NYC, which presented the work years of executive experience 14, The Textile Museum will not in the new Museum of Costume of one of the few women to in the museum field, including have an exhibition on view. The and Textile of Quebec, at 363, achieve fame in the Chinese con- successfully leading multi-million Textile Museum Shop will be De la Commune Street East. temporary art world. And, fiber dollar capital campaign fundrais- open Fri.-Sun, 10 am-5 pm, Oct. According to an initiative of artist Orly Genger was awarded ing initiatives and directing a 14-Dec. 31. The Textile Museum the General Director Suzanne funds toward her site-specific university art museum. He has will offer a variety of special Chabot, this exhibition presents installation using 1.4 million feet previously served in executive events and programs throughout masterpieces from the collection of layered, painted, and knotted leadership roles at the Carnegie the transition in 2013 and 2014. as well as creations by Montreal’s rope in Madison Square Park in Museums in Pittsburgh, PA; Visit the museum’s online calen- contemporary designers. Manhattan. The John and Mable Ringling dar for the most up-to-date list http://WWW.MCTQ.ORG The Johns Hopkins Museum of Art in Sarasota, FL; of events. University Press received Coby and the Cheekwood Museum http://www.textilemuseum.org Julie’s is Closing funding for a monograph by of Art in Nashville, TN. June 2013 marks the end Janneken Smucker entitled Amish The new museum at GW Venues Sought of a fashion-filled era for Julie Quilts: The Story of America’s First will include dedicated galleries The Museum of International Artisans’ Gallery, NYC. Owner Abstract Art. The Foundation sup- and increased exhibition space Folk Art exhibition, “Young Julie Schaffer Dale will close her ported a quilt exhibition at the for The Textile Museum, the Brides, Old Treasures: esteemed gallery, which for 40 Katonah Museum in Westchester Albert H. Small Washingtoniana Macedonian Embroidered Dress,” years has showcased wearable County, Beyond the Bed: The Collection, and the university’s displaying 26 fully outfitted man- art and artists whose works func- American Quilt Evolution. art collections. Exhibitions and nequins plus other garments and tion as art for the wall, and also Assisted by Coby funds, programs will be presented to jewelry from Macedonia dating enhance any wardrobe. the Castellani Art Museum at the public and will involve GW from 1870-1950, is available http://julieartisans.com Niagara University is collaborat- faculty and students in academic to travel. For more information ing with City Lore to conduct collaborations. including checklist, images, and ethnographic fieldwork with makers, sellers, and wearers of ethnic wedding dress within TSA Symposium Proceedings New York State in anticipation of a major exhibition. At the The Proceedings of the 2012 Symposium, edited by Ann Svenson, will be posted online shortly. other end of the state, the Long The Proceedings are published through Digital Commons, hosted by the University of Nebraska- Island Museum in Stony Brook Lincoln. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/textilesoc mounted the exhibition, Long All papers are downloadable as PDFs. There is a link to each of the Proceedings on the TSA Island, America’s 1950s Frontier, website under the Publications tab. All of our Newsletters are also archived on Digital Commons, which included a fashion gallery and the current issues are downloadable through the News section of the TSA website, with trendy 1950s clothing. And http://www.textilesoiety.org finally, the Foundation under-

Spring/Summer 2013 11 Kwantung yam tuber, the staple food in that Chinese area, was also Exhibition the traditional dye Book source for mud-dyed Reviews silks. Laboratory anal- yses are now being Reviews done on the yam’s chemical structure.

Art and Endangered Textile 2)Weaving, printing Cotton Traditions and applied decora- Lemire, Beverly World Eco-Fiber and Textile tive techniques seen Oxford: Berg, 2011 (WEFT) Conference and discussed in the (Textiles that Changed the Brunei Gallery context of traditional World series) January 18 - March 23, 2013 and colonially-influ- enced eco-geography. ith the daunting task of East and West will be So-called “Indigenous” Wdiscussing the role cotton Forever Inter-twined patterns are not has played in world culture in a always so. Keireine single volume, Beverly Lemire choes of the 2014 TSA Canavan of The focused upon four themes: (1) ESymposium theme, New Cardiff Metropolitan Bound up with cotton: world markets, global trade and cotton Directions: Examining the University Art School, Liang Xue Fang, “MARSHES” (dou- Past, Creating the Future, were showed Kuwaiti camel-hair fab- ble-faced Suzhou silk embroidery at histories, (2) Fashion’s favorite: already evident at the World rics decorated with coffee pot Brunei Gallery, London. the social politics of cotton and Eco-Fiber and Textile (WEFT) and radio battery motifs! the democratization of style, (3) conference and art exhibi- Cottage, mill, factory, plantation: shaped abstraction of a Korean tion hosted by the University 3)The application of modern the industrialization of cotton saffron silk sculpture reminded of London School of Oriental scientific laboratory analysis and the new world order, and me of a similar form by the and African Studies (SOAS). I and more efficient technological (4) Crafting comfort, crafting Japanese designer, Yojiro Kake, attended both the exhibi- methods to produce a better “tra- culture: cotton and the rise in an installation I viewed dur- tion opening and the two-day ditional” product. Several coun- of quilt culture in the western ing Polimoda Pitti Fashion Week Symposium on “Endangered tries have such studies underway. world. An Afterword discusses in Florence; this artist, however, Textile Traditions.” This report is For example, an Indian architect, denim and jeans, giving a con- used high-tech fabrics and lurex. based on my observations. Asif Shaikh, has revived and temporary perspective on one Read more on WEFT at The Malaysian architect streamlined traditional Gujarat aspect of cotton. Each chapter is http://www.societyatelier.com and designer, Edric Ong, located embroidery. an independent essay containing http://www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/ in Sarawak, has directed this background information as well 4)Contemporary fashion. I weft UNESCO-sponsored project as detailed discussion. met a Philippine graduate of (WEFT) for almost 20 years. – Rosalia Bonito Fanelli Since review space precludes the Florence Polimoda, Rambie Presenters and exhibitors from discussing each of the chapters, Lim, who now markets con- the Far East, Africa, India, my focus is upon the second temporary fashions using her Southeast Asia, and Asia Minor theme, with a few highlights of native pineapple-fiber textiles. In not only spotlighted traditional some of the fascinating topics it India, two enterprising women, textile cultures, but also present- contains. Lemire concentrates Krishnakumar and Hegde Roy, ed contemporary fiber arts. We upon the crucial interaction have convinced the Tata hotel have already had a glimpse of chain to have the front-office the past and present–and what women wear luxury handwoven is to come? There were 20 Benares silk saris, which can TSA Newsletter Symposium presentations, so also be bought in the gift shop. my comments refer only to five Deadlines In Sarawak, Edric Ong designs essential aspects: accessories with pandanus leaves, • March 30 • July 30 1)Traditional materials, and dye- rattan, and beads. • November 30 stuffs (plant and animal sourc- Please send news, exhibition 5)Traditional artistic creativity es). The usages of these materials applied to contemporary fiber reviews, book reviews, in isolated migrational pockets arts. This was a particularly rich conference reviews, event were interesting. For example, area and fits well into contem- listings, and articles to: Prof Tien Chin mentioned that a porary interiors. The Samurai- WEFT Silks installation by Yojiro Kake Karen Searle, Editor at Florence Polimoda. [email protected]

12 tsa newsletter between India, where cotton from supplying cotton cloth to took hold. This lowered status England to producing cotton—as TSA listserv originated, and England, whose was reinforced by the modern East India Company became a did the American south—to be art movement’s strict hierarchy of The mission of the TSA list- transformed into cloth in British major world corporation thanks media. Respect and appreciation serv is to provide a venue for factories. to its trade in cotton and spices. for textiles rose again during the ongoing dialogue among our As the preceding paragraphs Calicoes were the key cotton 1970s as the Lausanne Bienniale diverse and globally dispersed indicate, each of the four topics type in this interaction. Given exhibitions showcased fine-art textile community. Listserv and the Afterword on denim in their vibrant colorfast designs and textiles, and has continued to members engage in conversa- this wonderful volume provides motifs, the English cloth industry rise during the postmodern era tions about research; share much new information as well introduced embroidery to mimic with the subsequent breakdown information about particular as prompts desires to learn more them as a way to compete. Thus of barriers among art media. textiles, techniques, people, about the topics under discussion. began embroidery as a notable Schoeser notes that the response and regions; announce pub- aspect of English textiles. The far – Donald Clay Johnson to mechanization has always lications and exhibitions; and cheaper, durable, and colorful been, and continues to be, look- share research in progress. Indian cloths, however, easily ing to other cultures and reintro- You can subscribe to the won the public eye. This resulted Textiles: The Art of Mankind ducing old techniques, assuring listserv by using the form in various strategies to limit their that textile processes are not lost. on the TSA website at the purchase during the 17th centu- Mary Schoeser Ingredients discusses materi- 2012: Thames & Hudson address below. As soon as ry. Both sumptuary laws as well als and processes from primitive the form is submitted, you as peer pressure, however, were to high-tech. Textile artists and his visually rich volume will be able to join in the ineffective. Public censure was in artisans’ inventiveness and love of focuses on the artistry of conversations! the public arena, which meant T experimentation are emphasized. textiles and emphasizes the women wearing cotton outside Structure emphasizes the Subscribe at: “continuum of creativity” prac- their homes were often subject three-dimensional nature of all http://www.textilesociety. ticed by makers of textiles to attacks which often left their textiles and discusses both non- org/resources_listserv.htm through the ages, up to the pres- clothing in shreds. Most interest- tensioned processes such as bas- – Lydia Fraser, ent time. Schoeser presents this ingly, men did not wear cotton ketry and embroidery, and the Listserv Coordinator array of visual delight through- in public but rather wore it in use of tensioned threads, as in out 500 pages and over 1000 the safety of their homes. An loom weaving. Schoeser marks as images, in part to teach us how example of this is the banyan, a a major development the inven- to really see textiles: to be aware many personal connections while fashionable men’s cotton robe. tion of the shed, which allowed of their cultural significance; to looking through this book, from Banyan is the name of the mer- patterning to occur. notice the skill and inventive- treasured ethnographic examples chant caste in India, which raises Surface discusses cloth as a ness of their makers; and to be to some of the artworks that intriguing questions about its ori- metaphor for skin. She also dis- aware of meanings—not only inspired me to pursue a path in gins and history. cusses yarn, stitch, texture, and those inherent in the making, textile arts, to works by teachers, The economic decline of the printed patterns. but also their cultural and artistic friends, and colleagues. (I noticed English cloth industry, thanks to Added Dimensions includes contexts. that works by TSA artist-mem- imported cotton cloth, was so fabric cutting and manipulation, In the brief essays that bers are well represented: one or severe that in 1719 there were such as strip weaving, patchwork, begin each of the six chapters, more works by at least 14 TSA incidents of acid being thrown and quilting. Three-dimensional Schoeser discusses the unique members are included.) upon people who wore cotton and installation works are also qualities of textiles in historic and Mary Schoeser is a leading in public. Two years later, par- discussed. art history contexts as related to authority in the field of textiles liament passed a law banning Imagery highlights the sensual each theme. An extensive and and is Honorary President of the Indian cotton goods in England. nature of textiles, as viewing well-captioned photo gallery of UK Textile Society. Her previous But, the vast popularity of cotton them engages all the senses. ethnic, historic, and contempo- books include World Textiles: A meant the law was never effec- Textiles can also reflect identity, rary textile art follows each essay. Concise History (2003), and Silk tively implemented. Admitting carry symbolism, and tell stories. It is a pleasure to see contempo- (2007). She recently co-curated defeat, the English cloth industry Schoeser has provided rary art textiles included in this an exhibition at the University faced reality and incorporated detailed Bibliography. A Resources continuum, each chosen by the of California-Davis Design cotton into its products. This section includes artists’ emails, author to illustrate “the persis- Museum entitled “Structures, began with blending linen and and also lists collectors, dealers, tence of skill and creativity,” that Signifiers, and Society: People cotton to produce fustian, the galleries, and study groups. remains central to the making of and Textiles.” common person’s typical attire. Interesting juxtapositions fine textiles. The sections are: As the 18th century pro- of ethnic, historic and contem- – Karen Searle Impact, the introductory gressed, England went through its porary textiles in each photo essay, discusses the context and industrial revolution, which was gallery inspire the reader to language of textiles. The status overwhelmingly concentrated contemplate the commonalities of textiles became relegated to upon the production of cot- that persist beyond the boundar- female activity as industrialization ton textiles. India thus changed ies of space and time. I found

Spring/Summer 2013 13 CALL FOR PAPERS New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future Textile Society of America’s 14th Biennial Symposium Los Angeles, California, September 10-14, 2014 Online submission process opens May 1 Deadline for Submissions: October 1, 2013 SA’s Biennial Symposium will take place in Los Angeles, California on the campus of the University of California at Los TAngeles (UCLA) and at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA). To encourage the maximum amount of scholarly interchange, TSA has devised a new format for 2014, and plans to hold two days of multiple, concurrent sessions at UCLA, as well as a full day of plenary sessions at LACMA on the last day. In addition to the sessions, there will be a series of dynamic pre- and post-conference workshops and study tours to local and regional art institutions and collections, receptions, special programs and awards ceremony. The theme of TSA’s 14th Biennial Symposium, New Directions: Examining the Past, Creating the Future, will explore change and innovation in textiles in the past while looking at the state of the field of textiles, textile study, production and creativity, today and for the future. Where have we been and where are we going? What are the moments that encapsulate change? What are the shifts in direction for cultures, technology, creativity and knowledge? And how do these affect textile studies? Proposed papers should look at important moments in history when innovations or new ideas caused cultures to shift (materially, technically, aesthetically, or conceptually) or present new approaches, new research methods, new ways of understanding the past. They may also focus on key innovators, makers, designers, or scholars whose contributions have had a major impact, or examine critical social, political, economic or artistic processes. Papers could look at the present, examining elements of modern life or ideas that impact our world through the medium of textiles, whether from environmental, scientific, economic, social, or artistic perspectives. In addition, papers might look to the future and the pathways of knowledge or production that yield new ways of seeing, making, and understanding textiles. TSA seeks presentation proposals from all textile-related disciplines and interdisciplinary areas, including, but not limited to, anthropology, archaeology, art, art history, conservation, cultural geography, design, economics, ethnic studies, history, linguistics, marketing, mathematics, political science, and theater, among others. Participation of international and U.S. scholars, researchers, artists, museum professionals, and others is welcome. Submission of abstracts is open to TSA members. In addition to our general Call for Papers, including individual papers, organized sessions and panels, films and other media submissions, we invite papers that may be considered for our Plenary Day. The review committee will select from among the general submissions those that cogently and directly address the theme of the Symposium. Symposium proceedings will be electronically published through on-line open access through the University of Nebraska Digital Commons in early 2015. Scholarships and Award applications are available on the TSA website.

The Symposium is organized by the Textile Society of America. Academic Program Chair: Roy Hamilton, Curator, Asian and Pacific Collections, Fowler Museum, UCLA; Co-host: Sharon Takeda, Senior Curator and Department Head, Costumes and Textiles, LACMA.

To submit an abstract for the 2014 Symposium please go to http://www.textilesociety.org

14 tsa newsletter Warren Seelig, Otto von Busch, textile tribute at the Siamese, Frater, workshop leaders include Nathalie Mielbach. Conference Burmese, Shan and Lan Na Mary Frame and Mary Littrell. Chair: Theresa Paschke. courts; preserving royal collec- Also demonstrations, seminars Information: tions; and dressing modern roy- for indigenous weavers, Pre- and Calendar http://www.surfacedesign.org/ alty. Speakers includes John Guy post-conference tours to weaving conference (Metropolitan Museum), Joanna villages and archaeological sites. Marschner (Kensington Palace), US inquiries: Jannes Gibson, Jul.17-20: Colonial (Mis) Julia Brennan and Sylvia [email protected] understandings: Portugal and Fraser-Lu (Washington, D.C.), http://www.textiles.cusco.org Europe in Global Perspective, Gillian Green (U. of Sydney), Conferences & 1450-1900 CHAM International Patricia Cheesman (Chiang Mai), Nov. 22-23: Valeurs et réali- Conference, Lisbon, Portugal. Dr. Y. Oyama (Tokyo National tés du BLANC: une facette de Symposia http://www.cham.fcsh.unl.pt/ext/ Museum), Melissa Leventon l’aventure textil. Values and chamconference (California College of the Arts), Realities of WHITE: an Aspect May 17-19: Weaving History Dale Carolyn Gluckman of the Textile Adventure, Musée Conference, Thousand Islands Jul. 23-Aug. 2: Felt Crossroads (Los Angeles), Sara Reiter du Quai Branly, Paris. Organized Arts Center Clayton, NY. in Kyrgyzstan, Kyrgyz Republic. (Philadelphia Museum of Art), by the French Association for http://www.tiartscenter.org 5th International Felt Symposium the curatorial and conservation Textiles Study (Association The itinerary will be full of staff of the QSMT, as well as Française pour l’Étude des Jun. 6-9: In•ter•face. Participate. opportunities for creative scholars and conservators from Textiles -AFET). Information: Illuminate. Celebrate. 17th expression, sightseeing, cultural Thailand, Bhutan, and Singapore. Francoise Cousin. International Surface Design exchanges, camaraderie, and For information, email [email protected] Association Conference at entertainment. Attend a sympo- [email protected] Southwest School of Art, San sium in Naryn, visit feltmaking with “Symposium information” Nov. 29-30: The 6th Antonio, TX. Pre-conference villages, attend the Central Asian in the subject line. The museum International Conference Workshops: Jun. 1-5, Post- Crafts Fair. Information: will inform you when their sym- on Indigenous Textiles of the conference Workshops: Jun. [email protected] posium website is live. Americas organized by the Musée 10-14. Speakers: Janet Echelman, du Quai Branly and the Ecole Michael James, Elissa Auther, [email protected]@ Nov. 12-15: Conserving des Hautes Etudes en Sciences gmail.com Modernity: the Articulation of Sociales (EHESS). Workshops on Innovation, The 9th Biennial Textiles of the Americas, Paris, Aug. 8-10: Lowell Quilt North American Textile France. Post-conference work- Festival, New England Quilt Conservation Conference, at shops are offered Dec. 2-4 on Museum. the de Young Museum San such topics as fiber identification, http://www.lowellquiltfestival.org Francisco, CA. Includes two days relationship of weave structure of workshops and evening recep- and design, and Andean natural Nov. 6-9: Weaving Royal tions, along with two days of dyes. Traditions through Time: presentations and poster displays http://www.quaibranly.fr Textiles and Dress at the Thai involving care and/or use of Court and Beyond, at the Queen modern materials and innovative Sirikit Museum of Textiles conservation treatment methods. (QSMT) on the grounds of the Two-day pre-conference work- Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand. shops include Aqueous cleaning, Pre- and post-conference tours, fiber identification, Fosshape and special opportunities to see mannequin fabrication, shibori behind the scenes at the new dyeing, and ribbon and fabric museum and visit private collec- embellishment. For continual tions of Southeast Asian textiles updates and registration, visit: not accessible to the general http://www.natcconference.com public. Papers will cover such topics as Indian, Chinese, and Nov. 12-15: Tinkuy de Tejedores, Cambodian textiles for the Thai Cusco, Peru. Weavers meeting court; a late 19th c. royal collec- organized by the Center for tion of Indonesian batik from Traditional Textiles, Cusco focuses the Inner Court; Thai influence on weavers and their cultural on Burmese royal dress; 19th c. traditions. Speakers include Judy

Smitthi Lao piece from the collection Kyrgyz shyrdak at craft fair, typical of the Queen Sikrit Museum, of those seen at the Felt Crossroads Bangkok. conference.

Spring/Summer 2013 15 Exhibitions: Textiles in Cusco, Peru. Massachusetts United States [email protected] Mobilia Gallery, Cambridge. To May 11: “John McQueen Denver Art Museum. May and Jan Hopkins.” California 19-Sept. 22: “Spun.” Jun. 9-Sept. http://mobilia-gallery.com Craft and Folk Art Museum, 22: “Nick Cave Sojourn.” To, Los Angeles. To May 5: “Social Jul. 28: “Texture & Tradition: American Textile History Fabric”, seven contemporary Japanese Woven Bamboo.” Museum, Lowell. To Aug. artists confront the problems of http://www.denverartmuseum.org 11: “Behind the Veil: Brides mass production and consump- Peruvian textiles at the Avenir and their Dresses.” How brides Museum, Ft. Collins, CO. tion through interactive fiber- District of Columbia over the past 150 years have based art. Sept. 29-Jan. 5, 2014: The Textile Museum. chosen their wedding dresses, sculptures by Tracy Krumm. “Sonya Clark: Material Reflex,“ Exhibitions open through Oct. and how their decisions are http://www.sherryleedy.com and Nathalie Miebach. 13; Programs and Museum Shop shaped by fashion, family, and http://www.cafam.org open all year. To Oct. 13: “Out finances. To Sept. 1: “Textile Nebraska of Southeast Asia: Art That Revolution: An Exploration International Quilt Study San Jose Museum of Quilts Sustains.” Features work of Carol through Space and Time.” Center & Museum, Lincoln. and Textiles. May 8-Jul. Cassidy, the husband-wife team http://www.athm.org Jun. 7-Mar. 2, 2014: “The 21: “Milestones: Textiles of Agus Ismoyo and Nia Fliam, Engineer Who Could” show- Transition,“ historic and contem- Vernal Bogren Swift, and histori- Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. cases the work of Nebraska porary textiles created for and cal textiles from the museum’s Jul. 16-Nov. 11: “Hippie Chic” quiltmaker, farmer, and engi- continue to signify moments collections. explores the exuberant fashions neer, Ernest Haight. To Jun. 2: of transition. “Threads of Love: http://www.textilemuseum.org of the late 1960s and early “Indigo Gives America the Blues,” Baby Carriers from China’s 1970s in 50 ensembles by hip 13 quilts from early 1800s-1980s Minority Nationalities.” Florida young designers and avant-garde illustrate indigo dyeing in the US. http://sjquiltmuseum.org Ruth Funk Center for Textile boutiques. Curated by Lauren To Jul. 7: “Post-9/11 Memorial Arts, Florida Institute of Whitley. Quilts by Don Beld.” To Sept. de Young Museum, San Technology, Melbourne. May http:www.mfa.org 1: “Perfecting the Past: Colonial Francisco. To Aug. 4: “From the 18-Aug. 27: “Masters 2,” Studio Art Revival Quilts” explores a move- Exotic to the Mystical: Woven Quilt Associates international exhi- Minnesota ment (1880-1940), when Treasures from the Permanent bition of 37 quilt artists who have Goldstein Gallery, University Americans looked to antique Collection.” This selection rep- proven themselves to be masters of of Minnesota, St. Paul. To May objects for inspiration. To Dec. 1: resents 15 centuries of textile this exciting art form. 26: “Redesigning, Redefining “Posing with Patchwork: Quilts in arts and includes finely detailed http://textiles.fit.edu Fashion,” clothing and accessories Photographs” 1855-1955. English embroideries, Spanish designed with sensitivity to envi- http://www.quiltstudy.org laces, French ecclesiastical vest- Illinois ronmental, economic, and social View Online exhibitions at: ments, and many others. Fine Line Creative Arts concerns. http://www.quiltstudy.org/ http://deyoungmuseum.org Center, St. Charles. May http://goldstein.design.umn.edu/ exhibitions/online_exhibitions 31-Sept. 7: “Small Expressions exhibitions Museum of Craft and Design, 2013.” Juried exhibition spon- ew exico San Francisco. To June 23: N M sored by Handweavers Guild of Minneapolis Institute of Arts. “Creatures from the Deep,” knit Museum of International America. To Jul. 20, 2014: “Women in sculpture installation by Arline Folk Art, Santa Fe. To Sept. 2: http://www.weavespindye.org Craft and Design.” Fisch; “Affinity” by Rebecca “Plain Geometry: Amish Quilts” http://www.fineline.org http://artsmia.org Hutchinson. explores changes in design and http://www.sfmcd.org materials in Amish quilts from Textile Center, Minneapolis. the late 19th-late 20th century. To May 5: “Cultural Colorado Curated by Bobbie Sumberg. Conversations: Traditional http://www.moifa.org Avenir Museum of Design Design in the Digital Age.” and Merchandising, Colorado http://www.textilescentermn.org ew ork State University, Ft. Collins. N Y To Aug. 2: “Weaving Lives: Metropolitan Museum of Art, Missouri Transforming Textile Traditions NYC. To May 27: “Impressionism. in the Peruvian Highlands.” Sherry Leedy Gallery, St. Louis. Fashion and Modernity.” To Jun. Efforts to preserve traditional May 3-Jul. 22: “In the Making,” 16: “Cambodian Rattan: The Sculptures of Sopheap Pich.” weaving practices by modern- Agus Ismoyo and Nia Fliam, “Father izing textile designs in weavings Sky Mother Earth” (“Bapak Langit Ibu May 9-Aug. 14: “PUNK: Chaos from 9 communities associated Bumi”) (Back), 2005. On loan from to Couture.” May 15-Aug. 18: with the Center for Traditional Margrit Benton and Mark Nelson. “Search for the Unicorn: An Courtesy of The Textile Museum. Exhibition in Honor of The

16 tsa newsletter Cloisters 75th Anniversary.” (1778–1840) to the romantics McQueen and John Galliano. felting and wet felting, weaving http://www.metmuseum.org and revolutionaries of today, http://www.rom.on.ca fundamentals, rug braiding, and an artistic, rebellious figure is natural dyeing. The Museum at FIT, revealed through sartorial and Museum of Costume and http://tiartscenter.org NYC. To May 8: “Fashion personal presentation. To Jun. 16: Textile, Quebec. To Oct. 6: Jun 29-Jul. 2: American and Technology” examines “Lists,” from the Smithsonian’s ”Tapis Rouge: Fashion at the Tapestry Alliance Workshop how fashion engages with archives of American art. Museum.” with Shelley Sokolofsky, “Traces, technological advancement and http://www.risd.edu http://www.mctq.org Layers, Narratives & Surfaces.” is altered by it. http://americantapestryalliance. http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum Texas Moon Rain Centre org/education/workshops/traces- Houston Center for for Textile Arts in the layers-narratives-sufaces New York State Capitol, Contemporary Craft. To May Outaouais, Quebec. Aug. Albany. To Jun. 2013: “1862: 5: “Constructing Solitude,” a solo 31-Oct. 6: “Matrices :Triennale Workshops and Courses at the Red, White and Battered,” exhibi- exhibition by Janice Jakielski. Internationale des Arts Textiles.” Lisio Foundation, Florence, tion of Civil War Battle Flags. http://www.crafthouston.org/ http://www.moonrain.ca/ Italy: learning opportunities in [email protected] weaving on Jacquard looms and Washington China drawlooms, as well as courses in Ohio Handforth Gallery, Tacoma Zhejiang Museum of Art and textile identification and analysis. Troy-Hayner Cultural Center, Public Library. Jun. 13-Aug. 3: China National Silk Museum, didat@fondazionelisio Troy. Sept. 27-Dec. 1: “Small “Small Tapestry International” Hangzhou. To Sept. 2013: http://www.fondazionelisio.edu Tapestry International” sponsored sponsored by American Tapestry “Fiber Visions: First Hangzhou by American Tapestry Alliance. Alliance. International Fiber Art Exhibition.” This summer, the famous and http://www.troyhaner.org http://americantapestryalliance. http://www. German weaver, inventor and http://americantapestryalliance. org/exhibitions fiberarthangzhoucom/en/ artist, Andreas Möller, will lecture org/exhibitions triennial_theme_1.html and teach a 5-day masterclass in Wisconsin the Netherlands, Jun. 23-28. Dairy Barn Art Center, Athens. Design Gallery, Madison. May France Information: May 24-Sept. 9: “Quilt National 13.” 2-17: “Making and Thinking Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Jul. [email protected] http://www.dairybarn.org Through Design,” UW-Madison 4-Nov. 24: “Behind the Seams.” http://www.moeller-hamburg.com Annual juried student show. An indiscreet look at the http://www.goldenhaand.nl Kent State University Museum. http://www.Designgallery.wisc.edu mechanics of Fashion. To Jun. 9: “Resist: A World of http://www.lacma.org Resist-Dye Techniques.” Tours http://www.kent.edu/museum/ Exhibitions: England Tia Stephanie Tours to Mexico. exhibits Victoria and Albert Museum, International Aug. 1-10: The Fashion of Frida London. To Aug. 11: “David Kahlo. Sept. 5-15: The Mexican Pennsylvania Bowie Is,” exploring the broad Canada Rebozo. Oct. 5-14 and Nov. 9-18: Philadelphia Museum of Art. range of Bowie’s collaborations Textile Museum of Canada, Textile Traditions of Oaxaca. To Dec. 1: “All Dressed Up: with artists and designers in the Toronto, ON. To May 12: http://www.tiastephanietours.com Fashions for Children and Their “Marimekko, with Love. ”To Sept. fields of fashion, sound, graph- Families” focuses on clothing ics, theatre, art and film. 2: “Shine,” 50 textiles from the Puchka Peru Tours feature stu- from the late 18th through mid- http://www.vam.ac.uk Museum’s collection shown with dio visits, villages, and sites in the 20th centuries, comparing and contemporary glass and jewelry. Central Andes, Sept. 13-Oct. 4. contrasting adults’ apparel with Fashion and Textile Museum, To Oct. 14: “Ancestry and Artistry: http://www.puchkaperu.com children’s smaller styles. Maya textiles from Guatemala” London. To Jun. 29: “Kaffe http://www.philamuseum.org explores the richness of Maya Fassett: A Life in Color.” weaving traditions past and pres- http://www.ftmlondon.org/ Virtual Pittsburgh Center for the ent, and includes work of con- exhibitions Arts. To Aug. 18: “Fiber Art temporary artists Andrea Aragón, Exhibitions International 2013.” Verónica Riedel, and photo-jour- http://www.fiberartspgh.org/ Lectures and The newest TEx@ATA exhibi- nalist Jean-Marie Simon. Curated tion, “The Power of Slow” was guild/node/10 by Roxane Shaughnessy. Workshops curated by Anne Jackson.and http://textilemuseum.ca includes the work of 15 con- Rhode Island Thousand Island Arts Center, temporary tapestry artists from RISD Museum, Providence. To Royal Ontario Museum, Clayton, NY. Summer classes around the world, accompanied Aug. 18: “Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Toronto. To Fall, 2013. “Big,” and workshops include quilting by a curator’s essay. Men of Fashion” celebrates the showcases 40 costume and fash- and braiding, a knit and crochet http://americantapestryalliance. dandy. From the sophistication ion items of grandiose status, clinic, fabric printing and paint- org/exhibitions/tex_ata/the-power- and elegance of Beau Brummell including garments by Alexander ing, cast-on knitting, shibori, nuno of-slow Spring/Summer 2013 17