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Home , Alba (shinty team), An Lanntair, Brocade, Garynahine, Harris Tweed, Harris Tweed Authority

THE HARRIS FESTIVAL FèisClò2016 Mòr

AN LANNTAIR - - harristweedhebrides.com Cover photographh © Ian Lawson Cover

WOVEN BY HAND

IN THE OF

25 North Beach Stornoway Isle of Lewis Scotland, UK HS1 2XQ

t: +44 (0) 1851 700 046 e: [email protected]

HARRIS TWEED ISLE OF HARRIS , Tarbert, Isle of Harris, HS3 3DJ Tel: 01859502040 Email: [email protected] Website: www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk

KENNETH MACKENZIE LTD [email protected]

Kenneth Mackenzie Ltd is the oldest mill producing the hand woven fabric established in 1906. Harris Tweed Isle of Harris and Harris Tweed and Recently re-equipped with considerable Knitwear are the continuation of a family tradition. amounts of new machinery the company One of the largest stockists of Harris Tweed offers a limited range of designs for delivery products on the Island providing clothing, from stock thus complimenting the other accessories and a selection of gifts provided by local crafters. Just a few miles away is ‘Clo Mor’ mills who offer a bespoke range of our exhibit centre showing how the cloth has Harris Tweed designs. evolved from traditional uses to high fashion today. THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL

Harris Tweed is one of the most desirable in the world. It is a product like no other – uniquely protected by its own act of Parliament ‘The Harris Tweed Act of 1993’ and manufactured by the same artisan skills now as by our island forefathers over a hundred years ago, it is an industry, it is a work of craftsmanship, it is part of our culture. The contrast between the simple, elemental origins of the cloth and the opulent, international market it reaches makes for a fascinating story and it is one we never tire of telling as we travel the world to promote Harris Tweed. But as every traveller knows, there is nothing quite like coming home and The Harris Tweed Festival 2016 gives us a very special opportunity to celebrate all that Harris Tweed is right here in its heartland. The Festival, conceived by as part of the Bealach Creative Place programme and 2016 Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design, will bring together a host of different activities, events and people involved in every aspect of the industry. We are delighted to be part of this and very much hope you enjoy visiting the exhibitions, taking part in the workshops, joining in with the Festival Day, taking the tours, listening to the stories and learning about the heritage of this solely distinctive product in what will truly be an ard-fheill na Clò Mòr.

Norman L. Macdonald Chair, The

Bealach: Creative Place Awards Bealach; a Gaelic word originally meaning ‘route or pass’ which has come through time to signify a passage for travellers, through land or sea, essentially describing the process of moving through. In 2015 a bid from the Outer Hebrides was awarded the top level Creative Place accolade by Creative Scotland in recognition of our thriving arts and culture. Championed by a dynamic partnership led by An Lanntair Arts Centre, the win awarded £125K funding towards the unique ‘Bealach’ project and recognised the breadth of our local artistic work and creative activity. Bealach focuses on making a way in to new cultural experiences rooted in the rich heritage of the Gaidhealtachd and takes place across the Isle of . The project is enabling innovative artist residencies; world class Gaelic music; public art; trails, tours and exhibitions as well as The Festival of Harris Tweed. There are linked workshops and outreach activities throughout the programme, a range of events linking in to the community and targeted support for the development of creative skills which will add to the rich seam of talent running through the islands. hotograph © Ian Lawson For more information please visit: www.lanntair.com/bealach P EDUCATION & OUTREACH PROGRAMME

Orb it: Clò School based workshops on the history & story of 6th – 24th June Mòr schools Harris Tweed. An introduction to the processes & Lewis & Harris SCHOOLS workshops principles of ; activities will include basic Jane Hepburn, The Harris Tweed weaving, colour matching the natural environment & Authority & Sandra Kennedy, Artist , plus the creation of ‘Orbs’ to be exhibited in Free to attend An Lanntair. Available in English or Gaelic

Summer One week dance & performance project for young Mon 4th – Friday 8th July Youth Dance people. Daily contemporary dance sessions, leading 10am – 5pm daily Performance 6pm, Intensive to a performance in An Lanntair. Inspired by Ian Fri 8th July £30 Lawson’s ‘From the Land’ participants will learn Hebrides Dance & Wellbeing Studio about choreography & create their own unique / An Lanntair dance material. Julia McGhee, Dance Tutor

Weaving in Young people will learn how to create a colour palette Thurs 4th August – age 10 - 13 Colour & weave their own cloth using table . Inspired by 10am to 1pm or 2pm to 5pm £6 Ian Lawson’s photography of Hebridean landscapes & Fri 5th August – age 14 – 18 using yarns supplied from local Harris Tweed mills they 10am – 4pm £10 will experience step-by-step how fabric is constructed. Sheilagh Tacey, Textile Designer & Weaver

Individualised Young people will use a favourite Hebridean landscape Saturday 6th August – age 14+ in the Hebrides to inspire the customising of a garment. Using Harris 10am to 4pm £10 Tweed, trims & found objects they will create An Lanntair multi-textured individual pieces. Rosie Wiscombe, Designer and Maker, By Rosie

Introduction An introduction to the basic principles & processes of Mon 8th to Wed 10th August to Weaving hand weaving. Participants will learn to weave on table 10am – 5pm looms & use a variety of techniques, patterns & colour An Lanntair combinations to design & produce their own small Heather Shields, piece of fabric. No prior weaving experience necessary. Textile Designer & Weaver £130 / £110 (concession)

Harris Tweed Learn how to make a pair of Harris Tweed wrist cuffs Fri 12th August, 1pm – 5pm Wrist Cuffs and embellish them in your own style. Basic sewing skills £16 / £14 concession required, all materials supplied. Netty Sopata, Designer & Maker, Diggory Brown.

The Drop-in Workshops. Children & families can join in fun Saturday 13th August. Harris Tweed and creative Harris Tweed related activities throughout Hourly sessions beginning on the Festival Day: the Festival Day. Take part in the Human , try our hour from 10am to 3pm. Harris Tweed dressing-up box, make your own Tweed An Lanntair, Community Room Orb, do some shoebox weaving or bag decoration. & Education Room Free to attend

Other choir singing waulking songs with people living with dementia though An Lanntair’s workshops and Arora creative care project. Autumn term schools projects - writer DS Murray will work in activities will classes teaching poetry relating to his book Weaving Songs and there will be a series of take place into kinetic sculpture workshops relating to ‘Am Beart’, the exhibition by Russian artist collective the autumn: Sharmanka reconstructing a . For more information and to book your tickets, please visit www.lanntair.com or call 01851 708480 THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY

Saturday 13th August 2016 10:00 Harris Tweed Bike Ride launches the day’s activities. Departs An Lanntair for circular route through Stornoway town; don your , make a donation to a local charity and pedal your bicycle all in the name of fun. Booking for the Harris Tweed Bike Ride is essential, please book via www.lanntair.com An Lanntair Auditorium Free All Day Programme, no booking required. 10:00 A selection of films will set the scene for the day Please see main programme for details. 10:45 Welcome to the Festival Day Norman L. Macdonald, Chair of Harris Tweed Authority 11:00 Pre Harris Tweed: The Beginning of Weaving in the Outer Hebrides Dr Mary Macleod-Rivett 11:30 Borve Harris (circa 1930). David Fradgley archive film The Western Isles (1941). Terry Bishop archive film 12:00 The Islanders and the Orb Mrs Janet Hunter

12:30 Island of the Big Cloth (1971), archive film 13:00 The Industry in the 20th Century Panel discussion chaired by Alasdair Macleod 13:45 Laxdale Choir – Waulking Group 14.00 The Fabric of Fashion (2016), Harris Tweed Hebrides, short film Harris Tweed in the Global Market Place Margaret A. Macleod, Brand Development Director, Harris Tweed Hebrides 14:45 Sandra Murray Loves Sandra Murray MBE 15:30 Harris Tweed (Kenneth Mackenzie Mill) 1977. Archie Ferguson archive film 16:00 Yarns – tales from the working life of Harris Tweed Stornoway Historical Society

17:20 Sharmanka Preview, short film A taster of the forthcoming An Lanntair exhibition by the world famous Russian artist collective which will close the Harris Tweed Festival in November. 17:30 Fashion Showcase event A catwalk show, co-ordinated in partnership with the and featuring unique and vintage garments alongside work from designers and makers working in the islands today.

Plus: Main exhibition, ‘From the Land’ by Ian Lawson Themed children’s workshops and family activities throughout the day Displays and information across the building Live music and cèilidh event through the evening until late. Please note timings of some events may be subject to slight delay depending on activity on the day.

THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY

Norman L. Macdonald is the Chair of The Harris Tweed Authority, the pub- lic body established by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 to act as guardian of the Orb trademark, protecting and promoting the brand worldwide. Norman is a local businessman who is involved in many diverse aspects of the local community.

Fiona Mackenzie will be your host for the Harris Tweed Festival Day. A singer, musician, respected broadcast presenter and the face of BBC , Fiona was born and brought up in the islands to a rich Gaelic cultural tradition and is herself the daughter of a Harris Tweed weaver.

Mary Macleod-Rivett is an Archaeology Lecturer at College UHI, specialising in the Viking and later archaeology of the North Atlantic, she is also a consultant archaeologist. Previously the Western Isles Archaeologist for Comhairle nan Eilean Siar, Mary now divides her time between lecturing, research, commercial contracts, tour guiding, crofting and has an active interest in textiles and textile working.

Janet Hunter was born and raised on the Isle of Lewis and now lives in Aberdeen. She is the author of ‘The islanders and the Orb’ which is considered to be the definitive and most comprehensive account ever written of the Harris Tweed industry. The book makes an important contribution to the social and economic history of the islands by showing the struggle the people of the Outer Hebri- des had, to retain the commercial value of the name, “Harris Tweed”. Meticulously researched, intricate and changing circumstances in the history of the industry are made immensely readable; the book is of great interest to anyone interested in the place of Harris Tweed on the stage of international modern trends.

Alasdair Macleod is the Vice-Chair of the Harris Tweed Authority and is very active in the cultural life of the islands including chairing the Comhairle’s Sustainable Development Committee. On the Festival Day Alasdair will chair a panel of individ- uals who know Harris Tweed well, drawing out their comments and observations on the long and winding journey the industry has taken and their personal views on why it is such and iconic product.

Formed in 1951 for the love of Gaelic song the Laxdale Choir are known and respected internationally. Their performance group who re-enact the tradition of ‘waulking the Harris Tweed cloth’ are part of Festival Day and the workshop programme. Before the days of machinery the stiff cloth that came off the loom would be manually ‘waulked’ to soften and tighten it ready for use. This was women’s work, often laborious and requiring a steady pace and so the women would sing, rhythmic, often energetic songs to lift the spirit and ease the work. THE HARRIS TWEED FESTIVAL DAY

Margaret Ann Macleod, Brand Development Director with Harris Tweed Hebrides, , has worked for the Mill for the past 4 years, having previous- ly worked in and retail head office for companies including Johnstons of Elgin and Arcadia PLC. A native of Lewis, Margaret Ann returned to the island over 10 years ago.

Harris Tweed Hebrides was established in 2007, at a time when the Harris Tweed industry was at its lowest ebb in decades. Harris Tweed is once again a famous British fashion brand, known globally for quality, colour, provenance and a rich textile heritage. The team at the Shawbost Mill, supported by the local weavers, have worked tirelessly over the past 9 years to bring back an almost forgotten industry. Harris Tweed Hebrides now directly employ almost 90 people and provide weaving to over 140 independent weavers located across our island communities. Margaret Ann will explore in more detail the current international market place for Harris Tweed, providing a unique insight into the world of Harris Tweed Hebrides.

Couturier Sandra Murray MBE will offer an exclusive and fascinating insight into the world of couture and the life of an independent designer whose creative identity is rooted in the Highlands and Islands, it’s colours and fabrics, but who maintains a global perspective.

Based in Inverness with an international reputation and clientele, Sandra was raised on the Isle of Lewis as a native Gaelic speaker and trained at of Art before setting up as an independent designer. Working from her studio, she produc- es unique, highly complex yet structured designs, her love of the Scottish landscape is the primary inspiration for her work, and she has a particular passion for wool.

Sandra was commissioned to dress HM The Queen for the opening of the in 1999 and has both an MBE for services to the Scottish fashion and textiles industry and an honorary fellowship with the University of the Highlands and Islands. Throughout her career she has promoted the Scottish textile indus- try; leading international showcases in New York and Tokyo, exhibiting at London Fashion Week, working with the Cannes Film Festival and The Metropolitan Club New York. Sandra also presented the BBC ALBA series of Stoidhle the Dressing- up Box and admits to constantly having many ‘irons in the fire’ – a current project involves a unique collaboration with the Research Institute in , where her making of a brocade dress is being filmed for a Chinese TV documentary. www.sandramurray.co.uk

The Stornoway Historical Society was formed in 1992. Its objective is to Stornoway Historical Society advance the education of the public about the history, heritage and culture of Stornoway and the Island of Lewis. To date it has been instrumental in raising awareness of the need to preserve all aspects of the town’s early and most recent history. It has actively participated in the presentation of information on the town through exhibitions, public lectures and publications. Membership of the Society is open to all who have an interest active and passive, in the history of the town.

EXHIBITIONS & TOURS

Sharmanka ‘Am Beairt’ 1st October to 13th November 2016 For most of the 20th Century Harris Tweed was woven on Hattersley pedal looms on Island crofts. Post-war, in the 50s and 60s, when the cloth was at Photograph © Ian Lawson peak production, the villages of Lewis rang to the clickety-clack of this quintessential home industry. Am Beairt : The Loom is a piece of kinetic art, which is built using a genuine ‘rescued’ Hattersley, bought from a former weaver. The Glasgow-based Russian company Sharmanka were commissioned by An Lanntair to reinvent, reconfigure and bestow this familiar machine, the original workhorse of the industry, with a new character and personality. Created and embellished through the unique vocabulary and vision of Eduard Bersudsky, the sculpture gives an extra-cultural slant to Harris Tweed’s place as a global product. The exhibition is illustrated by Robin Mitchell’s photographs of the Ian Lawson ‘From the Land’ disassembly and (re)construction along with a 2nd July to 13th August 2016 photo-essay on the Mill in operation. Originally commissioned by the Harris Tweed Authority for its Centenary, Ian Lawson first showed his extraordinary, vivid photographs of the person- alities, culture, landscape and industry that sustains Harris Tweed at An Lanntair in 2011. Since then his portfolio has been both expanded and refined. This time, the exhibition is supplemented and Photograph © Robin Mitchell enhanced by new photographs, artefacts, products and examples of the process from raw wool to finished bespoke product; not least the presence of a functioning Hattersley loom. It also includes a wide range of items that have been developed to use and interpret the cloth. From the Land is a generous and appropriate tribute to an iconic, beloved product and a celebration of the that has occurred in the industry in the 21st Century.

Harris Tweed Tours The Harris Tweed Festival, in partnership with The Western Isles Tour Guide Association, will be offering an exclusive and bespoke tour experience for visitors during the summer months. Two distinct rural tours will be offered - one routed through Harris and drawing on the history of the Tweed industry which takes its name from the beautiful island; the other travelling west and north through Lewis high- lighting landscapes which inspire the cloth and the production of today. There will also be a walking tour offered in Stornoway, using the streets and local landmarks to tell just some of the many stories associated with Harris Tweed in the town. The tours will weave cultural and historical aspects together to create a unique experience, places will be limited and demand high so advance booking is essential. For more information please www.lanntair.com THE PROCESS

One of the most desirable wool textiles in the Harris Tweed weavers throughout the length and world, Harris Tweed, is produced in the Outer breadth of Lewis and Harris are self-employed Hebrides, on the one island with two names, craftsmen and women, often having learnt the craft separated only by a mountain range – the islands from their forefathers over many years. of Lewis and Harris. The greasy cloth from the oily loom is now The story begins with pure virgin which are thoroughly washed and conditioned removing any blended together to gain the advantages of their impurities. After , the last and vital stage of unique qualities and characteristics. production can begin.

The wool used to make Harris Tweed is principally The tweed is then presented to the Harris Tweed taken from flocks reared on the mainland of Scot- Authority’s inspectors, and only if all the necessary land. In the early summer the island communities regulations have been complied with, it is stamped round up and shear the local sheep to add to the with the Certification Mark – or ORB MARK – as mainland clip. it is known throughout the world.

The raw undyed wool is taken to the island mills The orb stamp is the mark of authenticity and the where it is washed and dyed into an endless woven label issued with the cloth to the customer palette of colours; this ‘dyed in the wool’ process confirms it. is unique to Harris Tweed. *a small rented farm, esp. one in Scotland, comprising a plot of After drying, the coloured wools are blended to- arable land attached to a house. gether in a predetermined and secret recipe, then carded and spun to produce the spectrum of yarns that enhance the uniqueness of our finished cloth.

The spun is then warped, where the final pattern of the colours is prepared by winding the threads onto large beams to create the warp.

The warp is delivered, together with the of yarn for the weft, to the homes of the weavers along with a pattern instruction card from the mill.

All Harris Tweed must be, by law, woven on a treadle loom by the weaver at his own home. Once complete, the bolts of raw, unfinished tweed are collected from outside the * gate and mages & Text The © Authority Harris Tweed returned to the mill for finishing. I INDEPENDENT SMALL PRODUCERS OF HARRIS TWEED

Luskentrye Harris Tweed Co Shawbost Weavers Producer of single width Harris Tweed. Producers of single width Harris Tweed. Donald John & Maureen Mackay Contact Catherine Amor Maureen.mackay@hebrides. [email protected] +44(0) 1859 550 261 +44 (0) 1851 710 701 6 , Isle of Harris, HS3 3HL 20 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9BQ

James Amor Handmade by Heather Producer of single width Harris Tweed Producer of single width Harris Tweed and products [email protected] Contact Heather Macleod 01851 710 701 [email protected] Listing courtesy of The Harris Tweed Authority Tweed The Harris Listing courtesy of 20 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis HS2 9BQ www.facebook.com/handmadebyheatherisleofharris +44 (0) 7979032203 Textiles Producer of single width Harris Tweed. Taobh Tuath Tweeds www.buttoflewistextiles.co.uk Producer of single width Harris Tweed. Contact Callum Maclean Contact Rebecca Hutton [email protected] [email protected] +44 (0) 1851 810 600 www.taobhtuathtweeds.com +44 (0) 7843394298 Port of Ness, Isle of Lewis, HS2 0XF Christina’s Harris Tweed Scalpay Producer of single width Harris Tweed Producer of single width Harris Tweed Contact Christina Macleod Contact Sheila Roderick [email protected] [email protected] Independent Harris Tweed Weavers Urgha Loom Producer of single width tweeds and interior products. Garynahine Harris Tweed Contact Joanne Owens. Producer of double width Harris Tweed. [email protected] www.garynahineharristweed.com www.urghaloomshed.com Contact John Maclean +44 (0) 1859 502 730 [email protected] Isle of Harris +44 (0) 1851 621 204 9 Garynahine, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9DS Caroline Chaffer Producer of single width Harris Tweed Janina Seddon [email protected] Producer of single width Harris Tweed 01851 520 777 [email protected] Sandyknowie, Northton, Isle of Harris, HS3 3JA 01859 530224 O’er Wather, 10 Geocrab, Jessica Chambers Isle of Harris, HS3 3HB Producer of single width Harris Tweed [email protected] Isle of Harris Tweed 01851 710 701 Producer of single width Harris Tweed. 20 North Shawbost, Isle of Lewis HS2 9BQ Contact Murdo Macleod [email protected] Ruth Black www.isleofharristweed.com Producer of single width Harris Tweed 52 , Isle of Lewis, HS2 9NS +44 (0) 777 1774172 [email protected] John Macdonald 46 Upper Coll, Back, HS2 0LT Producer of single width Harris Tweed 01851 830 378 Carloway Harris Tweeds 93 , Isle of Lewis HS2 9PT Producer of single width Harris Tweed. Contact Norman Mackenzie John Macmillan [email protected] Producer of single width Harris Tweed +44 (0) 1851 643 413 01851 870 616 Park House, Carloway, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9AH Westend Cottage, Shader, Isle of Lewis, HS2 0PU Listing courtesy of The Harris Tweed Authority Harris Tweed tosupply shops and galleriesacross the you can comeand see where we design, cutandsew gifts. With studio/shopsinCarloway andStornoway award winning Harris Tweed clothing, accessories and traditional handskillstodesignandcreate beautiful are happy knowledge to use a wealth and of industry Paulette Brough and her team at Rarebird Design Ltd RAREBIRD DESIGNLTD [email protected] Inspired by thecoloursofisland. UK and export totheEU,UK andexport USAandJapan. Rarebird isproud tobeMadeinScotland www.rarebirddesign.co.uk 89-93 Cromwell St, Stornoway ROSIE WISCOMBE A fresh angleonHarris Tweed. Contemporary garments,Contemporary bags and accessoriescraftedinour Isle ofLewis, HS12DG Insta: @by.rosie.tweed Stornoway workroom. www.byrosie.co.uk Facebook: Byrosie - ByRosie 01851 701622 Tel: 01851643329 Tel: 01851709974 Isle ofLewis Isle ofLewis Stornoway 1 BellsRd HS2 9AQ HS1 2QT Carloway Unit 1 I: www.instagram.com/diggorybrown/ F: www.facebook.com/diggory.brown/ P: 07881273966 E: [email protected] Please contactNettytoarrange anappointment. Isle ofLewis. 7 , Ness, available tovisitat New studio Outer Hebrides. in The Made Designed and and Accessories: Kilts, Garments DIGGORY BROWN ! Garments-Made-to-Measure-Bridal Sallie-Avis-Designer-Harris-Tweed- https://www.facebook.com/ find usonfacebook: w: e: closed open 10am–5pmtuesday –saturday t: HS2 0XB Isle ofLewis Port ofNess 29B Lionel Farley Cottage DESIGNER AVISSALLIE Y A R 01851811196 [email protected] N www.salliejayneavisbridal.com S

www.uistwool.co.uk Wool 5 Scotvein - P H O T O sunday.monday.

Harris Tweed Workwear worn by Madde in The Wool Shed C L O T Outer HebridesOuter HS6 5JA H The Mill Centre & Wool The

Taobh Tuath Tweeds Tel. 01870602597 Tel.

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MJ MacIsaac

Designed by Rhona Macleod. Printed by J. Thomson Colour Printers Tweed Act ofParliament. PriortothistheHarris Tweed Association hadbeeninexistencesince1909. The Harris Tweed Public Authority isastatutory Authority created by thepassingof1993Harris and handwoven by islandersoftheOuterHebridesScotlandattheirhomes tothelaws outlined The Orbmark, pressed ontoevery lengthofclothandseenonthetraditionalwoven labelaffixed The fundamentalrole of The Harris Tweed Authority isto, onbehalfofthepeopleOuter Hebrides, undertake responsibility for promoting andmaintainingtheauthenticity, standard and to finisheditems, guarantees thehighestquality100%pure new wool Harris Tweed, dyed, spun [email protected] www.harristweed.org +44 (0)1851702269 THE HARRIS TWEED AUTHORITY HARRIS TWEED THE reputation ofthe World famousHarris Tweed cloth. in theHarris Tweed Act ofParliament. W ILLIAM GRAN FOUNDA TIO N T Town Hall, 2Cromwell Street, Stornoway, IsleofLewis, Scotland, HS12DB

Sharmanka image © Robin Mitchell