16 ISLE OF LEWIS ISLE OF LEWIS 17 Mainland buses: City Link buses connect with the for the pan whilst Uig Lodge smoke their own salmon the tall transmission mast in the centre of Lewis. Sròn ISLE OF LEWIS ISLE OF LEWIS (EILEAN LEODHAIS) ferries at Ullapool and Uig (Skye). and then there is the Abhainn Dearg Distillery – what Uladail has no reception, although the top of the hill Flights: Loganair (Scotland’s Airline) fly to Storn- more, happy campers! Apart from The Edge Cafe little if might be able to pick up the Achamore antennas on www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk oway on Lewis and Benbecula in The Uists (as well anything opens on a Sunday, although this is gradually Lewis. Creag Mò should pick up the Vodafone antenna www.isle-of-lewis.com as Barra) <www.loganair.co.uk>. Flybe/Eastern changing, so make sure that you are well stocked with by the road on the hillside opposite and the Ath Linne As well as being the most northerly in the chain of island Airways fly to Stornoway<www.flybe.com> and life’s essentials to see you through the weekend. antenna (O2) above Loch Seaforth. that makes up the Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles, the <www.easternairways.com> Climbing Walls: There is a climbing wall at the Lewis The tops of most of the sea-cliffs on Lewis should have coverage as follows: Isle of Lewis is also the largest. Lewis and Harris are in On island Transport: There are car hire companies Sports Centre in Stornoway. fact one island with a geographical boundary formed by Uig - Limited to the antenna on Forsnabhal (Orange/ and the bus service is good. Comhairle nan Eilean Siar Accommodation: Although there are numerous places EE), the small but prominent hill on the Àird Uig penin- a neck of land some 10km wide between the fjord-like (Western Isles Council) <www.cne-siar.gov.uk> has sea lochs of Loch Rèasort in the west and Loch Seaforth to camp rough it is perhaps better for both yourself sula. However, there are a few windows where certainly bus timetables and travel information as does Visit Outer and the environment to use one of the recognised sites. Vodafone, possibly O2 and Three signals can be picked in the east. Loch Rèasort also effectively splits the prin- Hebrides <www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk>. cipal hills of North Harris from the Uig Hills of Lewis. There are two favoured camp sites for climbers. up from the Achamore antennas. One is from the road There is only one road through this neck of land, the Drive times: Between the island ferry ports of Storn- One is in a beautiful location at the lovely beach of below the minor highpoint, before it rounds the corner A859, and this provides the access route for climbers oway and Tarbert it is 36 miles (58km); about a 50min Tràigh Uige (NB 049 329) and has good toilet and to descend to the parking area at the road end on the wishing to travel between Lewis and Harris. drive. Between Tarbert and Leverburgh it is 20 miles shower facilities. Àird Mhòr Mhangarstaidh headland. Another is at the Stornoway (Steòrnabhagh) is the principal town and (32km, 30min). Between Stornoway and Timsgarry in The other site is at Reef (Riof), close to Valtos (Bhaltos), highpoint of the road over to Valtos on the way to the ferry port on Lewis and is located on the east side of the Uig Sea-Cliffs area it is 34 miles (54km, 50min), and and also has good toilet and shower facilities. The campsite at Reef, where the Achamore antenna signal the island. Nearly all of the climbing on Lewis is on the between Tarbert and Timsgarry it is 55 miles (88km) and site overlooks the splendid beach at Tràigh na Beirigh can also be picked up. Another is on top of Forsnabhal, west side of the island, on sea-cliffs and in the Uig Hills. about a 1h 15min drive. (NB 101 359) close to a small crag and bouldering. the hill above the Àird Uig road, with the Orange/ Outwith the Uig Hills there are very few inland crags. Amenities: The only two major supermarkets on The top of the Acha Mòr antenna can just be seen from antenna on it; there is road access but a walk up the Almost all of the habitation is around the coastal fringes the island are located in Stornoway. There is a Tesco the seaward side of the site, so the mobile signal should steps is required to get line of sight from the summit. in ribbon settlements and crofting communities. The opposite the entrance to the ferry terminal and a Co-op be okay, although getting an internet connection might Great Bernera – The sea-cliffs on the west side should central part of the island is either peat bog, or water on the way out of town, on the opposite side of the road not be! pick up the Forsnabhal antenna (Orange/EE) and from in the form of countless lochans. Two major roads, the from a petrol station. If travelling north from Tarbert on There are various holiday cottages but these generally the top of the slope above the crags, the Achamore A857 and the A858 provide a link between the east Harris to the west side of Lewis, Stornoway is only some have to be booked well in advance, unless fortunate (Vodafone, O2 and Three), Breasclete (O2 and Voda- and west side of the island. Another road, the Pentland 10min drive out of the way. On the mainland, Ullapool enough to find one with the odd spare week, or a fone) and Carloway (Orange/EE) antennas should be Road (Rathaid a’ Phentland) cuts across the island but has a Tesco and on Skye, Portree has a large Co-op on cancellation. There are some B&Bs, information on picked up. this is a single track road with passing places. Although the road out to the ferry at Uig. which can be obtained from the Tourist Informa- Garenin, Dalbeg, Shawbost and Bragar – The sea-cliffs here should all pick up the Beinn na Cloich superseded by the A858, the Pentland Road is still used On Lewis itself, there are small shops and the odd tion Office in Stornoway (01851 703088) or online (NB 247 447) antenna (O2 and Vodafone); Bragar and should be travelled at least once by anyone keen to petrol station in various places. More specifically at <www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk>, or locally at the certainly has Vodafone reception. The Forsnabhal, explore the island. Timsgarry (Timsgearraidh) in Uig there is a Community Timsgarry shop. Carloway, Bragar and Barvas antennas (Orange/EE) Shop, which is licensed, together with post office, petrol Mobile Phones: Whilst there are some who might be The climbing on Lewis has been split into two principal should all be picked up. station and laundry. The shop is regularly stocked and happy to escape from mobile phones, there is no doubt Butt of Lewis - The sea-cliffs should pick up the Airigh sections: firstly the Lewis Sea-Cliffs & Outcrops then a will take orders; it also has a small cafe and an internet that out here they are of benefit. Not just in case of separate section of climbing in the Uig Hills. na Gaoithe (NB 533 604) antennas (Vodafone and connection. At Loch Croistean (passed on the way into emergency but also for those all-important weather and Orange/EE) above Ness, as well as the Borve/Gabhsann Maps: Lewis and Harris are covered by OS 1:25000 the Uig area) there is a lovely cafe and restaurant in the wind forecasts, as well as tidal information. Caledonian antenna (Vodafone and Orange/EE) and (O2) on Tom a’ Explorer Series Sheets 455, 456, 457, 458, 459 and old school building. Baile-na-Cille overlooking the bay MacBrayne also send notification texts for cancelled or Mhile (NB 441 574). 460 and OS 1:50000 Landranger Series Sheets 8, 13, at Uig does food and also has accommodation. A restau- interrupted ferry sailings due to adverse weather, which The list is not exhaustive and there are various 14 & 18. rant is apparently being built near the shop at Timsgarry, does happen. other antennae dotted elsewhere about Lewis and Ferries: Lewis and Harris can be reached by Caledonian so keep an eye out for this. The local Community Centre Reception in the mountain areas of Lewis and Harris Harris, so there should be reception for various Macbrayne vehicle and passenger ferry service has a small cafe and other amenities such as an internet is, as usual in such areaa is pretty much limited to the networks here and there when travelling. Storn- <www.calmac.co.uk> (0800 0665000): Ullapool to area, a gym and a local history museum, whilst out at summits. Parts of Creag Dubh Dìobadail are not far off oway and Tarbert should have full coverage. See Stornoway (Lewis); Uig (Skye) to Tarbert (Harris) and Àird Uig there is The Edge Cafe (open Sundays). The line-of-sight to the main Achamore antennas (Vodafone, <https://checker.ofcom.org.uk/mobile-coverage> Berneray (North Uist) to Leverburgh (Harris). Scallop Shack at Miavaig harbour has fresh scallops Orange/EE, O2 and Three) on Eitseal (NB 305 304) by or keyword search ‘sitefinder for mobile phone masts’. The Flannan Isles (photo Rab Anderson) 18 LEWIS SEA CLIFF & OUTCROPS LEWIS SEA CLIFFS & OUTCROPS 19 The rock itself is Lewisian Banded Gneiss, some of Lewis Sea-Cliffs and Outcrops ISLE OF LEWIS the oldest on the planet.