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cycle along – both golden Eagle Country and white tailed (or sea) 4 Continue north and pass eagles are often seen in the The Pairc area of south east Lewis two freshwater lochs. A dip in area. To tell them apart look the hills behind the second at their profile whilst soaring: is one of the island’s most attractive, loch gives great views across golden eagles hold their yet least visited areas. the sea to the hills of wings in a shallow V-shape, mainland Scotland. Hidden whilst a sea eagle is often beneath this dip is Mol nam compared to “a flying This rolling landscape of small, rocky hills interspersed with Braithrean (“the shingle plank of wood”! countless freshwater lochs also contains a number of fine beach of the brothers”) little villages. named after two brothers A short way further on is the its population decline by almost Calbost who were found drowned on turn off for the small This excellent cycling route follows quiet single track roads two thirds during the 20th the shore and buried here Soon you will arrive at the settlement of Marbhig that thread their way through the hills and lochs of the 3 Century. many years ago. small village of Calbost. Today it (Marvig), once a lively district. You will meet very little traffic so there will be plenty is a quiet place – few people fishing and crofting village. of time to enjoy the stunning views. Keep an eye open for There were many reasons for Look out for eagles soaring live here and many of the golden and white tailed (or sea) eagles, both of which are this dramatic loss of population, above the skyline as you commonly seen in this area. houses you see are holiday but overcrowding, the decline of homes. However, in the early the important herring industry 1900s this was a crowded and a lack of alternative local township, home to 200 people, Modern road signs are entirely employment all played a large Cromor In times past, Cromor’s One Island, with as many as 6 families in Gaelic but some older signs role. More enticing opportunities 5 Head back to the main sheltered bay provided a having to share a single croft. still use the English village in Stornoway, mainland road and press on through a safe anchorage for a large Two Languages As late as 1931, there were 32 names. Scotland and beyond fine landscape of rugged little fleet of fishing boats. They 1 The route starts at the families living here. The fate of persuaded many people to hills and freshwater lochs. would sail out to net herring junction of the B8060 at the Calbost mirrors that of the Soon you will come to an leave and seek their fortunes Eventually you will reach a in the rich waters of Loch turn off to Cromor (Cromore). whole Pairc district, which saw exhilarating, swooping elsewhere. road junction. Here you can Erisort or head out into the If you are travelling by car, descent into the little turn left and return to the Minch – the notoriously there is a parking area just settlement of Grabhair. Once start, but if you have the rough stretch of sea between before the turn-off. From the Pairc a thriving fishing village, energy it is well worth Lewis and the mainland – junction, head south along Grabhair lies at the head of continuing for another 2 where they would set long the B8060 towards the Loch Odhairn, one of Lewis’s kilometres to visit the baited lines to catch cod, villages of Grabhair (Gravir) most sheltered sea lochs. It is attractive little village of ling and eels. and Leumrabhagh still an important centre for the Cromor (Cromore). Like all (Lemreway). You may have district, containing a primary the other settlements visited Return the way you came, noticed that villages on the school, doctor’s surgery, on this ride there are no turning right at the road islands often have both church and fire station. facilities for visitors, but its junction to head back Gaelic and English names. beautiful setting more than to the start. compensates. Lemreway
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“Soon you will come to an exhilarating, swooping descent into the little settlement of Grabhair.”
There are usually fish farm The Long Climb cages near the mouth of this 2 At the bottom of the hill sea loch. The Outer Hebrides you have a choice. For a is a major producer of longer ride you can carry Scotland’s farmed salmon and straight on to the end of the the industry provides vital road at Leumrabhagh and employment in remote areas enjoy spectacular views over like Grabhair. After a couple of to the Shiant Islands and kilometres, the road heads Skye before heading back to inland and climbs steeply. This this junction. This option hill is a bit of a monster, so adds an extra 6 miles onto there’s no shame in getting off the route. Alternatively, turn and pushing. The effort is left here (signposted worthwhile however, as the “Grabhair”) and follow the road soon levels off to give road along the north shore of beautiful cycling along the Loch Odhairn. shore of Loch nam Faoileag (the loch of the seagulls).
Leaflet produced by White-tailed Sea Eagle “Soon you will come to an exhilarating, swooping descent into the little settlement of Grabhair.”
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