العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اﻹصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net " Silk discovery and analysis of the characteristics and types of Syrian silk" Seba Razouk College of Textile Engineering/ Taiyuan University of Technology Email: [email protected] (Taiyuan city/Shanxi province/China) Professor: 姜中华/Jiang Zhong Hua 94 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798 العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اﻹصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net Abstract: The search for silk textiles since its discovery eliminates its industry in this study, the silk discussed, where it used by kings and emperors, the physical and chemical properties as well as its importance in Chinese trade, carried out through the so-called "Silk Road." Even to the Middle East, specifically Syria, where we discuss the silk trade between China and Syria and its role in the Silk Road. Moreover, what Syria has added to the natural silk fabric? Also, How can we preserve the Syrian heritage and the Damascus silk industry? Through this study, we emphasize the importance of the heritage and cultural history of peoples. If we go between the past and the present, and that means to convince our culture, customs, and traditions that make us distinct, then the conclusion applies to our heritage and civilization to benefit from it commercially. Keywords: Jacquard, twill damask, silk, damask. 1-An introduction: German sociologist Norbert Elias believes that "culture is what makes a nation different from another nation, a dimension that expresses the same nation and its characteristics, and is not subject to the classification of the highest and the lowest. Moreover, civilisation is the dimension that makes disparities between nations diminish and reflect the general behavior and successes of humanity. In other words, culture is the property that makes nations different from each other, and civilisation is the link between nations ". Through our understanding of culture and civilisation, we can preserve our traditions and heritage and spreading our civilisation. Among the most important civilisations and oldest in the world is Chinese civilisation, historically regarded as the dominant civilisation in East Asia and has been adopted in all areas. It also received many civilisations through the "Silk Road," which was dedicated to trade, economy and exchange of cultures, religions, and commodities of various kinds, and worth of mentioning is the silk fabric. The appearance of silk is a significant step in the history of the economy and the history of Chinese civilisation. It has influenced the civilisations and development of many countries. 95 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798 العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اﻹصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net Because of the presence in China to study, we have seen many aspects of heritage and civilisation that still exist in various fields. The Chinese continue to care about their heritage, keep their traditions, and pride themselves in them; this they do either through the establishment of museums that preserve their heritage in civilisation or the streets. Hence the idea of research aimed at preserving our heritage, because it has not sufficiently documented. Also, through the research on silk fabrics, we have come to the understanding that the use of Silk in Syria has not well documented, although Syrian silk internationally known since the Silk Road to this day. Therefore, the research aimed to add a study to emphasise the importance of handicrafts and traditional crafts, which Syria is famous for and maintains. The research depends on the documentary approach based on many references and comparison. Emphasising the importance of heritage and civilisation in enhancing the role of countries globally, whether in economic terms, as in silk or civilisation through its transmission and spread and absorption of its importance and trying to develop it in the spirit of national culture. 2-The secret of Chinese silk and leaking methods: The secret of the silk industry has entered into myth and ancient tales, the oldest dating back to 2500 BC, when the Empress (Tsumeng) who was called the name "witch of Greater China" wife of Emperor (Hoon) and is said to have written the oldest book in the world, after the book "The Dead pharaohs." Through a committee that has reviewed and studied the content, the name of "Empress Tsuming Group" and contains more than a thousand prescription to treat various diseases, in addition to the secrets of some Chinese industries, including the secret of the discovery of 1silk which stated that, "I had a great crush on butterflies in Kasuri Gardens, and one day I found a bunch of these butterflies I took in the hope of using them in the pharmaceutical industry, but it happened after some hot water poured into the cocoons. Moreover, each of them seems fragile thread and tried again and again to grab the tip of this thread, so we managed to pull for three meters without interruption, and then realised the relationship between this cocoon, the worm that manufactures, and the threads surrounding the body such as coffins. Large worms and mulberry leaves as food, so we got large 96 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798 العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اﻹصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net numbers of cocoons. Then used hot water and certain types of oils, and got silk yarns and since that day I monopolised the manufacture of silk fabrics.) Al-Qayyim, Ali.2012,No. 2. Page 13 ). Despite all the various measures taken by the ancient masters of China to preserve the secrets of the art of silkworm culture and the technology of silk industry, these secrets have leaked out of China in different ways and by various quarters. Which threatened the monopoly of China's art industry and its economic resources important and large, and the stories of diversion of the silk industry as follows: Lesnosius wrote: "Well, I have not come to the secret of his industry, but its origin is probably vegetative, and I gather that the Chinese somehow collect certain leaves of foliage, which are very smooth. This glossy fabric is way unknown to us.” (Irene, David M.1986). The Western Region Book of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) reported that the Zhuyasadu Chuisadana in Zhutian, now Xinjiang, was unaware of the cultivation of mulberry trees, silkworm culture, and the technology of the silk industry. The king recognised this skill and experience in the importance of commercial silk and wished to transfer this vital art industry to his country to benefit economically and in various fields of life. The Chinese king received the delegates who told him about their mission, that the knowledge of the secrets of mulberry trees, silkworms and cocoons from his country falls under severe penal sanctions. The resentment of King Choisadana. The discontent of King Choisadana, who tried to rethink how he could learn the art of silk industry. He had a smart idea that would achieve his goal and his distant goals through a royal marriage project. Chuisadana sought the hand of a Princess of the Eastern Princesses of China, in the most exquisite literary, selected and elegant phrases, accompanied by the most precious, luxurious and rare royal gifts, which contributed to the approval of the Oriental Princess's marriage project. The King of Chuisadana then entrusted a delegate to prepare everything necessary for the reception of the Eastern Princess, and to inform her secretly that he was not in Chuisadana, and that it was desirable to carry with her or her belongings several silkworm eggs. (Page14, VOL2, 2012. Folklore) The Eastern Princess responded to this request and trusted the delegate to help her travel to the Kingdom of Chisadana. She put several silkworm eggs secretly in her head. When her convoy passed through the border control and inspection center of her country, it was natural that no one dared to 97 Arab Journal for Scientific Publishing (AJSP) ISSN: 2663-5798 العدد الثالث عشر تاريخ اﻹصدار: 2 – 11 – 2019 ISSN: 2663-5798 www.ajsp.net search it. For the first time, the secrets of the art of silkworm culture and the silk industry outside China\\ leaked to the original home. There are those who say that the silk industry was leaked out of China, following a soft, thin love story between a young Chinese princess called "Zoho" and a Syrian merchant from Antioch, revealing the secret of the industry, but the story is closer to the precision that says that a Chinese trader had known a Syrian girl from the city of Antioch about 1400 AD, and married her, and was able to know the secret of this industry and published in the Syrian coast and the countryside of the provinces of Idlib, Hama, and Homs, Some families produce natural silk, and make unusual tissue and tissue pieces. (Page14, VOL2, 2012. Folklore) the Silk-often referred to as "The Queen of Textiles" is the most durable natural fibre lustrous, smooth, inherent Affinity for dyes, vibrant colours, having high absorbent and lightweight qualities excellent drape and elastic properties. Historically this is the highly desired fibre which has been used extensively for apparels. Home furnishings and upholstery. Because of its lustrous look silk is always in vogue and cost highly. People love to dress in silk during the festive season and their family functions. China is the first to discover this remarkable fibre incidentally in about 2500B.C. For many years China alone used to produce silk fibre and was producing this delicate fabric, as the demand developed the secret was stolen out of China and eventually a large silk industry developed in Europe, Spain, Italy, France, India, Syria.