7Th-11Th April 2017 Vinitaly 2017 7Th-11Th April 2017 Vinitaly 2017 7Th-11Th April 2017 on the Road Kate Lucas a Word from the Team
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vinitaly 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road Kate Lucas A word from the team Earlier this month, a team of Enotria&Coe Italian-wine enthusiasts travelled to Verona, Italy, for Kate’s top picks for the 51st edition of Vinitaly. This year, more than 128,000 visitors from 142 countries travelled to Vinitaly 2017 the Italian city for the four-day festival which, over the years, has established its status as one Over the course of the world’s most important wine and spirits exhibitions. In the following pages, our travelling of the festival team spills some of their highlights from the trip. we tasted some truly amazing Ed Donnelly wines, but two Pina Bello which really stick out in my mind was the new Pecorino from Umani Ronchi and the 2016 Valpolicella from Bertani. We were incredibly lucky in that the wines from all producers were showing really well, but in particular, the line-ups from Umani Ronchi and Fontanafredda were truly outstanding. with great passion. three best wine grapes – along with Ed’s top picks for Vinitaly 2017 Nebbiolo and Sangiovese – and Alice Gatto The Fucci family owns 6.7ha of it’s developed the reputation as Fontanafredda – The best range we Aglianico vines, which range from the ‘Barolo of the South’. Aglianico tasted in terms of variety and quality. 55 to 65 years in age. The vineyards Producer highlight: Cenatiempo was shipped to northern Italy, and The Briccotondo Arneis was marvellous, are close to the volcano’s summit, at Bordeaux, to supplement the supply The south of Italy, with its of the red wine in the glass. great price, complex and mineral like. 600m above the sea level. The soil of weak vintages from more famous dramatic landscape and unique This indigenous red variety, here is slightly different in respect Bertani Valpolicella DOC, very elegant, wines. terroir, continues to surprise and cultivated in Ischia and around soft, supple, a baby of a wine. Definitely to others parts of the Aglianico del entertain demanding palates and the province of Naples, is fast the find of the trip! Vulture denomination. It’s an extinct wine lovers the world over. gaining popularity for the low and volcano site, with pockets of clay delicate tannins, and the youthful Satori Marani Bianco, very fine wine for between the layers of lava. Ischia is a stunning volcanic style is suitable for fish-based money, rich powerful garganega, named island off the coast of Naples, Did you know they produce just recipes like Zuppa di Pesce or after founders son. and Cenatiempo is the most one wine? It’s called Il Titolo and is pizza and various tomato sauces. historic and exciting winery Umani Ronchi Their new delux Pecorino 100% Aglianico. I loved the highly Plus, it can be drunk chilled! It’s of the island. Pasquale is the – which will be a parcel wine – was minerality nuances for Il Titolo. fresh, fruity, supple, versatile, man behind the Biancolella and amazing, as was the Cumaro. The strength and minerality of real fun, and a true contrast to Forastera white autochthon Chiarli Pruno Nero Dry Red Sparkling – it Producer highlight: Elena Fucci the volcanic land, and the acidity the more masculine Taurasi with grapes grown with organic and sounds wrong but it works. which is enhanced by extreme prominent tannins and longevity. I met Elena Fucci at the very end biodynamic practises. He’s also temperature fluctuations. This is It would be a great addition to our Planeta Etna Rosso of the Vinitaly show. She was, introduced us to Per’e Palumm, a wine with a great character and portfolio to celebrate diversity understandably, exhausted but I which in local dialect means Ruggeri Giustino B personality. and authenticity from the south admired her dedication and passion ‘pigeon feet’, like the reflection of Italy. Ferrari Perle to host us and present her winery Aglianico is said to be one of Italy’s vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road A word from the team incredibly well organised. started to pick up on as we met with the various producers, and I was out in two stages, the first that was a great proportion of moreish forest berries, juicy and well was with key accounts, and we had young enthusiastic winemakers balanced, not too acidic or harsh, the pleasure of visiting Chiarli en developing through these wineries. with soft fruit. The interesting one route. Chiarli’s wines are so perfect It’s interesting to see how our was their sparkling wine Contessa for the environment they’re made younger customers click very Rosa Metodo Classico 2012 made in, and the link between history and quickly with someone of their age with Barolo 1967 dosage! modernity is fascinating to see. group, and their interests in social Umani Ronchi Pecorino Centovie The programme we had planned media bring them together so well. 2015 – this new, slightly higher- for my customers was great as For me there were so many end Pecorino has less sweetness, there was time for us to benchmark fantastic wines that I tried: the more round and minerally; an against our main industry Fontanafredda 1967 Barolo excellent varietal example. Beautiful competitors, and this allowed Dosage, and Traditional Method packaging. Very tasty! the quality of the wines to shine Les Somerville sparking were both incredible. The through. It’s easy to take some Ruggeri Giustino B. 2015 – the best Quite simply the best yet is the title I new Pecerino from Umani Ronchi of our big agencies for granted – Italian sparkling wine according to will go with. was lovely. The dessert wine from such as Mandrarossa – but the Gambero Rosso! The grapes come Mandrarossa and Pignoletto from older vines, wine goes through The positivity from our producers range, price points and quality were in a perfect balance. I hadn’t tried Chiarli were sooooo good, and longer and cooler fermentation to on the back of the very successful fantastic. Milena, the winemaker, is this wine for a long time, and was makes you remember how good and Mari Juhasoo retain the complexity and freshness. Annual Tasting was infectious. As so passionate and knowledgeable pleasantly surprised. It was paired diverse Italian sparkling wine can It has about 16 g/l residual sugar, always, the sunny weather helps but and she really helps to bring the Producer highlights with a polenta dish with smoked be. so technically extra dry which is the the key to a successful VinItlay is wine to life. anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes A trip to Bertani classic style of prosecco. It doesn’t planning, and a huge thanks to Elisa But for me, the outright winner was – the sweet and salty elements in At Vinitaly, there was a very feel sweet but just round and and everyone else that helped to the 1997 Special Edition, Giulio Whilst Bertani is a large producer, the dish worked ideally with the interesting theme that we creamy, extremely drinkable. And make what is organised chaos seem Riserva Ferrari. OMG. it was really impressive to see the creamy freshness of the wine. history of winemaking there – the beautiful packaging! The new Ribolla Gialla 2014 from 185hl cement tanks they’ve been Planeta Didacus Chardonnay – Puiatti was excellent too. Very using since 1930s; the original superb! Like a top Burgundy but elegant, delicate, fresh – with a tiny wooden vats (think 400hl) which from Sicily! It was full, rich, complex bit of skin contact giving it the body were one of the first fermentation – simply delicious! Crafted from and structure, but still retaining vessels; and all the different types the oldest Chardonnay plants in excellent freshness and purity. of oak barrels they use now for Sicily, tiny yields, selection and a fermentation and aging, playing Fontanafredda – I though all the very small amount made – a true around with Slavonian, French new vintages showed extremely collector’s piece. oak and local cherry wood. The well. A couple of highlights: Surprisingly I also quite enjoyed the winery was immaculate and Gavi di Gavi 2016 had lovely Nonino Fragolino (and I normally clean, beautifully presented and ripeness and creaminess to it. I don’t like grappa!) – it was very maintained. was pleasantly surprised by the aromatic, full of flavour and actually From Bertani I was really impressed Briccotondo Arneis and Barbera, really nice. Their presentation is with their 2014 Vintage Soave – very fresh and juicy fruit and Arneis superb and they also shared ideas beautiful minerality, freshness and surprisingly soft. Babrera d’Alba for serving – e.g grappa with loads fruit, with creamy roundness – all was showing beautifully, lots of of ice in a big wine glass. vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road A word from the team meeting rooms, display spaces and and strawberry tart. This significant in many cases roof top balconies winery makes huge volume but and restaurant facilities. Alongside their best and most famous wines these huge and very flash stands are Regolo and Marani, named after are hundreds of smaller stands the founder of the company and his with vineyard proprietors proudly wife. These are both excellent. One showing their wine flights. This of my fellow travelers also called should be a lot of fun... Ed commented that he thought the Marani Garganega white was one Day 1 of the show was a blur with of the best hidden gems in our wine visits to some of our key wineries.