vinitaly 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road Kate Lucas A word from the team
Earlier this month, a team of Enotria&Coe Italian-wine enthusiasts travelled to Verona, Italy, for Kate’s top picks for the 51st edition of Vinitaly. This year, more than 128,000 visitors from 142 countries travelled to Vinitaly 2017 the Italian city for the four-day festival which, over the years, has established its status as one Over the course of the world’s most important wine and spirits exhibitions. In the following pages, our travelling of the festival team spills some of their highlights from the trip. we tasted some truly amazing Ed Donnelly wines, but two Pina Bello which really stick out in my mind was the new Pecorino from Umani Ronchi and the 2016 Valpolicella from Bertani. We were incredibly lucky in that the wines from all producers were showing really well, but in particular, the line-ups from Umani Ronchi and Fontanafredda were truly outstanding.
with great passion. three best wine grapes – along with Ed’s top picks for Vinitaly 2017 Nebbiolo and Sangiovese – and Alice Gatto The Fucci family owns 6.7ha of it’s developed the reputation as Fontanafredda – The best range we Aglianico vines, which range from the ‘Barolo of the South’. Aglianico tasted in terms of variety and quality. 55 to 65 years in age. The vineyards Producer highlight: Cenatiempo was shipped to northern Italy, and The Briccotondo Arneis was marvellous, are close to the volcano’s summit, at Bordeaux, to supplement the supply The south of Italy, with its of the red wine in the glass. great price, complex and mineral like. 600m above the sea level. The soil of weak vintages from more famous dramatic landscape and unique This indigenous red variety, here is slightly different in respect Bertani Valpolicella DOC, very elegant, wines. terroir, continues to surprise and cultivated in Ischia and around soft, supple, a baby of a wine. Definitely to others parts of the Aglianico del entertain demanding palates and the province of Naples, is fast the find of the trip! Vulture denomination. It’s an extinct wine lovers the world over. gaining popularity for the low and volcano site, with pockets of clay delicate tannins, and the youthful Satori Marani Bianco, very fine wine for between the layers of lava. Ischia is a stunning volcanic style is suitable for fish-based money, rich powerful garganega, named island off the coast of Naples, Did you know they produce just recipes like Zuppa di Pesce or after founders son. and Cenatiempo is the most one wine? It’s called Il Titolo and is pizza and various tomato sauces. historic and exciting winery Umani Ronchi Their new delux Pecorino 100% Aglianico. I loved the highly Plus, it can be drunk chilled! It’s of the island. Pasquale is the – which will be a parcel wine – was minerality nuances for Il Titolo. fresh, fruity, supple, versatile, man behind the Biancolella and amazing, as was the Cumaro. The strength and minerality of real fun, and a true contrast to Forastera white autochthon Chiarli Pruno Nero Dry Red Sparkling – it Producer highlight: Elena Fucci the volcanic land, and the acidity the more masculine Taurasi with grapes grown with organic and sounds wrong but it works. which is enhanced by extreme prominent tannins and longevity. I met Elena Fucci at the very end biodynamic practises. He’s also temperature fluctuations. This is It would be a great addition to our Planeta Etna Rosso of the Vinitaly show. She was, introduced us to Per’e Palumm, a wine with a great character and portfolio to celebrate diversity understandably, exhausted but I which in local dialect means Ruggeri Giustino B personality. and authenticity from the south admired her dedication and passion ‘pigeon feet’, like the reflection of Italy. Ferrari Perle to host us and present her winery Aglianico is said to be one of Italy’s vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road
A word from the team incredibly well organised. started to pick up on as we met with the various producers, and I was out in two stages, the first that was a great proportion of moreish forest berries, juicy and well was with key accounts, and we had young enthusiastic winemakers balanced, not too acidic or harsh, the pleasure of visiting Chiarli en developing through these wineries. with soft fruit. The interesting one route. Chiarli’s wines are so perfect It’s interesting to see how our was their sparkling wine Contessa for the environment they’re made younger customers click very Rosa Metodo Classico 2012 made in, and the link between history and quickly with someone of their age with Barolo 1967 dosage! modernity is fascinating to see. group, and their interests in social Umani Ronchi Pecorino Centovie The programme we had planned media bring them together so well. 2015 – this new, slightly higher- for my customers was great as For me there were so many end Pecorino has less sweetness, there was time for us to benchmark fantastic wines that I tried: the more round and minerally; an against our main industry Fontanafredda 1967 Barolo excellent varietal example. Beautiful competitors, and this allowed Dosage, and Traditional Method packaging. Very tasty! the quality of the wines to shine Les Somerville sparking were both incredible. The through. It’s easy to take some Ruggeri Giustino B. 2015 – the best Quite simply the best yet is the title I new Pecerino from Umani Ronchi of our big agencies for granted – Italian sparkling wine according to will go with. was lovely. The dessert wine from such as Mandrarossa – but the Gambero Rosso! The grapes come Mandrarossa and Pignoletto from older vines, wine goes through The positivity from our producers range, price points and quality were in a perfect balance. I hadn’t tried Chiarli were sooooo good, and longer and cooler fermentation to on the back of the very successful fantastic. Milena, the winemaker, is this wine for a long time, and was makes you remember how good and Mari Juhasoo retain the complexity and freshness. Annual Tasting was infectious. As so passionate and knowledgeable pleasantly surprised. It was paired diverse Italian sparkling wine can It has about 16 g/l residual sugar, always, the sunny weather helps but and she really helps to bring the Producer highlights with a polenta dish with smoked be. so technically extra dry which is the the key to a successful VinItlay is wine to life. anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes A trip to Bertani classic style of prosecco. It doesn’t planning, and a huge thanks to Elisa But for me, the outright winner was – the sweet and salty elements in At Vinitaly, there was a very feel sweet but just round and and everyone else that helped to the 1997 Special Edition, Giulio Whilst Bertani is a large producer, the dish worked ideally with the interesting theme that we creamy, extremely drinkable. And make what is organised chaos seem Riserva Ferrari. OMG. it was really impressive to see the creamy freshness of the wine. history of winemaking there – the beautiful packaging! The new Ribolla Gialla 2014 from 185hl cement tanks they’ve been Planeta Didacus Chardonnay – Puiatti was excellent too. Very using since 1930s; the original superb! Like a top Burgundy but elegant, delicate, fresh – with a tiny wooden vats (think 400hl) which from Sicily! It was full, rich, complex bit of skin contact giving it the body were one of the first fermentation – simply delicious! Crafted from and structure, but still retaining vessels; and all the different types the oldest Chardonnay plants in excellent freshness and purity. of oak barrels they use now for Sicily, tiny yields, selection and a fermentation and aging, playing Fontanafredda – I though all the very small amount made – a true around with Slavonian, French new vintages showed extremely collector’s piece. oak and local cherry wood. The well. A couple of highlights: Surprisingly I also quite enjoyed the winery was immaculate and Gavi di Gavi 2016 had lovely Nonino Fragolino (and I normally clean, beautifully presented and ripeness and creaminess to it. I don’t like grappa!) – it was very maintained. was pleasantly surprised by the aromatic, full of flavour and actually From Bertani I was really impressed Briccotondo Arneis and Barbera, really nice. Their presentation is with their 2014 Vintage Soave – very fresh and juicy fruit and Arneis superb and they also shared ideas beautiful minerality, freshness and surprisingly soft. Babrera d’Alba for serving – e.g grappa with loads fruit, with creamy roundness – all was showing beautifully, lots of of ice in a big wine glass. vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 on the road
A word from the team
meeting rooms, display spaces and and strawberry tart. This significant in many cases roof top balconies winery makes huge volume but and restaurant facilities. Alongside their best and most famous wines these huge and very flash stands are Regolo and Marani, named after are hundreds of smaller stands the founder of the company and his with vineyard proprietors proudly wife. These are both excellent. One showing their wine flights. This of my fellow travelers also called should be a lot of fun... Ed commented that he thought the Marani Garganega white was one Day 1 of the show was a blur with of the best hidden gems in our wine visits to some of our key wineries. list, and I tend to agree. First off was Ruggeri for the best Nonino Grappa for a post prandial. prosecco tasting you could ever The first offering was the Nonino hope for. Included in the lineup, and Amaro poured liberally over ice in a some nice nibbles to kick off, were massive glass, delicious. The 8 year the Giustino B which was voted the old grappa is also very good, almost Edward Mercer best sparkling wine in Italy last year like a cross between a fine aged rum A flying visit around the World’s by Gambero Rosso, and it’s also and cognac, very surprising. The use largest wine show available in magnums, wow! The of glasses at this stand would leave Extra Brut was also a highlight for Just before Easter I was very a bartender fuming, as we must me, a mineral-dry, vibrant prosecco fortunate to be included in a trip to have used 100 glasses between which cries out for seafood. Italy for the largest wine show in the group and some poor person the world. This annual event called Cleto Chiarli was next. More then had to clean them all. Anyway, barolo dosage (no idea if we will get were best, in this case Nero d’Avola Last conversation of the show was ‘Vinitaly’ is held in the not very delicious sliced meats and little blini onwards… any but I’ll let you know if we do!), and single vineyard Urra de Mare with Alessio Planeta agreeing the pretty part of the very pretty little style sandwiches. This was a revisit and also the barman who sounded sauvignon blanc which showed trip he will be making to Bath in the The Umani Ronchi stand was city of Verona. During the show of some of my favourite wines; just like Matt Damon. It was actually really well, and as the island’s Autumn to give a customer dinner enormous and we were ushered the population of Verona doubles Pignoletto, Rosé, Lambrusco and most notable for the shear quality biggest exporter it was really great – more to follow as soon as we can upstairs to the private roof tasting to almost 400,000 as the wine red sparkling Pruno Nero. All going of the mid-level wines; Gavi di to see how good these wines are. on that! thingy. Getting a bit tired now, but world descends to talk and taste, well so far and starting to forget the Gavi, Barbera and Moscato were this tasting was fantastic with a Last producer to visit at the show So Vinitaly had been very intense but unlike most big wine shows early flight out. all outstanding, a really impressive brand new Pecorino Centovie, the was the mighty Planeta also from and also a lot of fun, and we were off this is not an international affair, tasting line up. An off-the-schedule visit to the inexpensive San Lorenzo from the Sicily. On hand to guide us through to Bertani in Valpolicella and then unbelievably all wines are strictly Cenatiempo stand. These unusual Conero hills and the wine of the Done for the day, off to the prettier was Alessio Planeta, founder and to Ferrari in Trento for visits to these Italian. and delicious wines are from the show, 2003 Rosso Cumaro from bit for Aperol Spritz and a look at top man. Included in the very famous and hugely impressive The 16th century palazzos are island of Ischia off the Naples coast. double magnum all just singing that Balcony. extensive tasting were some new estates (I’ll save this for the next crackers under the La Segreta blog). I could have been at Vinitaly nowhere to be seen as the party The star for me, and all the group, from the rafters. The first stop on day 2 of Vinitaly of ten of us walk through security was undoubtedly the Kalimera range; Grillo and Nero d’Avola, also for a month, if it was on that long, Last visit today to the owners of was with Sicily’s Mandrarossa. and into the exhibition park of Biancolella, fresh, limey and grapey the brand new Mamertino from and probably not tasted half of the the largest contiguous vineyards in After a latish night, the first wines regionally themed pavilions. These white, really delicious. Capo Milazzo in the north east was wines at the show, but as an wine Barolo, Fontanafredda. This tasting were always going to be a challenge massive spaces hold exhibitions outstanding, and a new super- experience this was very special. I Sartori was next for one of the bit could have been most notable for but again it was some of the less stands for some of Italy’s largest premium chardonnay. look forward to introducing you to hitters, oh and lunch of fresh pasta the sparkling wine made with 1967 expensive wines of the show that wineries featuring tasting and some of these wines in person. vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 happenings
Producer news
the essence of Planeta’s history and by courage, by the impulse to and honours the winery’s founder. innovate and be open to influence. The all-new wine is crafted
from vines in Planeta’s very first 50% Grecanico 50% Nero d’Avola La Segreta: Changing its vineyard, planted in 1985 on the appearance, preserving body and banks of Ulmo lake. As well as soul bearing the memory of a symbol, 30% Chardonnay 25% Merlot for Planeta Didacus expresses With its new label La Segreta elegance and tradition, family and returns to the centre of the old map the future, and it embodies their of the Ulmo estate, where Planeta’s vision of wine and Sicily. first winery was established in 10% Fiano 20% Syrah 1995, between the fortress of For Planeta, it was Chardonnay, Mazzallakkar and the ancient olive above all, which opened the doors groves surrounding Lake Arancio. to the world, and allowed them Here their story began, around the to present their lesser-known 10% Viognier 5% Cabernet Franc 16th century farmhouse which is wines. Since the first vines were the oldest family residence, and planted more than 30 years ago, Francesca Planeta here the first bottle of La Segreta the vineyard on the banks of the Why is Vinitaly important to you? was born, named after the woods lake still remains distinctly visible; surrounding the estate. WE ARE CHANGING THE LOOK It’s an opportunity to meet B2B Didacus comes from the best BUT PRESERVING THE BODY AND SOUL clients, not just at the level of bunches of grapes, selected by Planeta planted their first vines at importers like at Prowein or Vinexpo, hand, pressed and sent to ferment Ulmo, beginning those experiments but also customers, restaurants, in barriques. with indigenous and international wine buyer specialist from all varieties, which they then continued The first bottles produced – just around the world. They’re able to during their journey throughout 6,996 – arrived for the 2014 vintage, taste the new wines and olive oils Sicily. Ever faithful to these which was described as ‘the perfect with us, and enjoy a beautiful and instincts, they continued to produce vintage’ for the climatic conditions romantic city. La Segreta wines with blends of throughout the whole of Sicily, and these varieties, which are cultivated at Menfi in particular. entirely in their own vineyards. What is new from you this year? Diego’s grandfather Vito used While they’ve changed the label to Th two biggest things we’re looking to call him by different names. commemorate the wines origins, forward to sharing is our new La Usually Diego; Dieguzzo for Planeta has preserved the body and Segreta range, and the release of moments of intimacy; and Didacus soul of the wines, with their unique Didacus, the Chardonnay dedicated for the times of his not-so-rare and unmistakeable character to Diego Planeta. misbehaviour. And it is from here, evoking the varied nature of the where the significance of the island’s territories. Didacus: A Chardonnay for Diego name comes: it marks the passage Also, be sure to watch this space Planeta between generations, and brings to the future the inheritance of for a special parcel of Riesling Introduced to the public for the first an agricultural tradition, with an from Etna, which will be landing time at Vinitaly, Didacus represents approach guided by creativity imminently. vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 vinitaly 2017 7th-11th April 2017 happenings Vinitaly: in pictures
Producer news
Umani Ronchi During the 51st edition of Vinitaly in Verona earlier this month, Umani Ronchi released their first important project from their vineyards in Roseto degli Abruzzi. An estate with mainly Montepulciano and a small parcel of Pecorino, that in the last years has enriched the quality and tipicity of the grapes. Since the first harvest, the team decide to cultivate the vineyards by adhering to organic methods, because the location, soil and climate were perfect for this kind of farming. It’s in this area – the Centovie village – from where the Umani Ronchi team looked over the estate for the first time in 2000, that their Pecorino was born. A wine where, in our opinion, you can find all the elements of this amazing estate between the Gran Sasso mountain and the Adriatic coast.
A (green) thumbs up for Ferrari In recent news, all vineyards belonging to the Lunelli Group, located in Trentino, and grown for the production of Ferrari Trentodoc have received organic certification. This achievement comes at the end of a long and challenging process that started more than 20 years ago. A number of studies and pilot projects were carried out in the field in partnership with Fondazione Edmund Mach, and showed that once the proper balance of the vineyard is found, the effort of growing organic vineyards in alpine regions gives excellent results. The commitment of the Lunelli family has been rewarded thanks to putting natural soil fertility, environmental protection, and working conditions back at the heart of farming activities. Over the years the use of herbicides and chemical fertilizers has been banned, promoting instead traditional practices such as the use of green manure, natural fertilisers, and the exclusive use of the safest plant protection products that preferably contain natural substances such as copper or sulphur.