Underwear in and Around the 14 Century

Underwear in and around the 14th century - To wear or not to wear?

THL Uta Boucht

Les Tres Riches Heures de Duc de Berry, February, 1412-16

Men

13th c. (source?) de Brailles Hours, England 1240 Maciejowski Bible, mid-13th c.

Missale Remense, Matfré Ermengaud de Bréziers: Torture of the traitor Ganelon, Grandes Crucifixion, 1285-97 Lo Breviari d’Amor, Catalonia, Chroniques de France, 14th c. (BNF) 1st half 14th c.

Execution of the followers of Thomas de (by A.Harmand, but what is the real source?) Marle, who had rebelled against Louis VI, king of France. Grandes Chroniques de France, 14th c. (BNF)

Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, Men revealing their underclothes? Romance of Alexander, fol. 93r, c. Hours of Catherine of Cleves, c. 1340 (Bodleian Library) Flanders c. 1440

Women:

Brunehilda, Romance of Alexander, fol. 42v, c. 1340 Johan Boccaccio, De las mujeres illustres en (Bodleian Library) romance, Zaragoza, Paulo Hurus, Alemán de Constancia, 1494

3 Misericord from St. Cernin, 15th century?

Patterns?

Thursfield http://scamelee.freeservers.com/braies_personal.html

http://www.bumply.com/Medieval/braies.htm A. Harmand

4 Shift, chemise, smock, pinafore

Men:

Les Tres Riches Heures de Duc de Berry, Execution of Olivier de Clisson and the Breton June (1412-1416) knights accused of treason, Jean Froissart, Chronicles, Flandres 15th Century (BNF)

Women:

Wenceslaus Bible, late 14th century, Bohemian Bathhouse Keepers

A fur lining? Romance of (by Köhler) Alexander, fol. 80v, c. 1340 (Bodleian Library)

Women revealing their underclothes, Romance of Alexander, fol. 97v, c. 1340 (Bodleian Library)

Guillaume de Lorris and Jean de Meung, Woman’s smock, c. 1400 (by Willett & Le Roman de la Rose, fol 68v, 1348 Cunnington, but what’s the real source?) (Bodleian Library)

Les Tres Riches Heures de Duc de Berry, June (1412-1416)

6 Patterns

Kragelund tunic, wool, around 1100 Skjoldehamn tunic, wool, late 14th-early 15th c.

Hose, chausses Men:

Maciejowski Bible, Guillaume de Lorris and Jean de Meung, Marco Polo ”Li Liures de Grant mid-13th c. Le Roman de la Rose, fol 68v, 1348 Caam”, c. 1400 (Bodleian Library) (Bodleian Library)

Servant, Le livre de chasse de Les Tres Riches Heures de Duc Chausses of St. Sebastian, Gaston Phoebus (1387-89), de Berry, February, 1412-16 Hours of Catherine of ordered by Jean sans Cleves, Flanders c. 1440 Peur in 1407?

8 Women:

Roman de la Rose Woman being pulled by the hair, wearing black hose held up by c. 1380-1400 garters, Roman de la Rose, late 15th c. France (MS. Douce 332 MS.)

Extant examples:

Pontifical stocking of Arnaud de Via, Hose of the Bockstenman, early 14th c. Archbishop of Bayonne (died 1331), silk brocade from 13th c. Lucca

9 Patterns

Hose from an archiepiscopal grave in Bremen, early 13th c.

Short hose from Herjolfsnes, 14th-15th c.

Coifs, kerchiefs, couvre-chiefs

Men and Women:

Maciejowski Bible, mid-13th c. Missale Remense, Bartholomaeus Anglicus, On the Crucifixion, 1285-97 Properties of Things, 15th c. (BNF)

Benoît de Sainte-Maure, Le roman de la guerre A midwife with a coif? (source?!) de Troie, Italy, 1st quarter of the 14th c.

A coif? Guiart des Moulins, Coif from Las Huelgas, Coif of St. Birgitta, 14th c. Bible Historiale, 1350-55 Spain, early 13th c.

Sources:

ANDERSSON, Aron & FRANZÉN, Anne Marie: Birgittareliker. Kungl. Vitterhets Historie och Antikvitets Akademien 1975.

ANDERSSON, Eva I: Sexigt på medeltiden - Klädedräkten som erotiskt språk i några medeltida riddarromaner. (År?) http://w1.311.comhem.se/~u31138198/sexigt.html

BURNHAM, Dorothy: Cut my cote. Royal Ontario Museum 1973.

CROWFOOT, Elisabeth & PRITCHARD, Frances & STANILAND, Kay: Textiles and clothing 1150-1450. Medieval Finds from excavations in London 4. The Boydell Press / Museum of London 2001 (1992).

HARMAND, Adrien: Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son armure (1929). Version numérisée dans http://site.voila.fr/costumesXV/index.html

11 KÖHLER, Carl: A history of costume. Dover Publications 1963 (1928).

Le livre de chasse de Gaston Phébus. Bibliothèque de l’Image 2002.

MATTHEW; Donald: Atlas of Medieval Europe. Facts On File. Inc. 1996 (1984).

Musée national du Moyen Age Thermes de Cluny. Guide to the collections. Réunion des musées nationaux 1993.

NEWTON, Stella Mary: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince. A study of the years 1340-1365. The Boydell Press 1999 (1980).

NOCKERT, Margareta etc: Bockstensmannen och hans dräkt. Stiftelsen Hallands länsmuseer, Halmstad och Varberg. 1997.

PIPONNIER, Françoise & MANE Perrine: Dress in the Middle Ages. Yale University Press 2000 (1997).

Tacuinum Sanitatis. Illuminated medical manuals based on texts translated from Arabic into Latin. Tacuinum of Paris (late 14th c.), Vienna (late 14th / early 15th c.), of Rouen (early 15th c.) and The Theatrum of the Casanatense Library (late 14th c.) http://www.godecookery.com/tacuin/tacuin.htm

THURSFIELD, Sarah: Medieval Tailor’s assistant. Making common garments 1200-1500. Ruth Bean Publishers 2001.

VORONOVA, Tamara & STERLIGOV, Andrei: Manuscrits enluminés occidentaux, VIIIe – XVIe siècles. Parkstone Aurora 1996.

WILLET, C. & CUNNINGTON, Phillis: The history of underclothes. Dover Publication 1992 (1952).

Images (for instance):

Bodleian Library http://image.ox.ac.uk/list?collection=bodleian

Bohemian Bathhouse Keepers http://tulgey.browser.net/~jenne/bohemia/bathkeepers.html

La Bibliothèque nationale de France (BNF) http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/

Les Tres Riches Heures de Duc de Berry http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/heures.html

Maciejowski Bible http://www.keesn.nl/mac/mac_en.htm

Tacuinum Sanitatis http://www.godecookery.com/tacuin/tacuin.htm