History and Drafting of Hose By: Adelheid Holtzhauer
Introduction
Leg coverings of some sort have been worn throughout history by both men and women. For the purposes of this class, the hose we will be looking at are fitted, closed footed and made of woven fabric. There are many garments called Hose and Hosen worn throughout history.
Extant examples have been found dating back to the 2nd century such as the footed hose found a Martres-de- Veyre.
Image 1: Womens woollen twill hose excavated at Martres-de-Veyre
Although there are many different garments that could be referred to as hose, in this class we will be focusing on "Single Hose" and "Attached Hose". Single hose cover one leg and can vary in length/height. Attached hose are essentially tight fitted trews. Over the course of time, single hose went from knee length and gartered with trim, to full fitted "pants" to thigh high and attached with to a belt at the waist, to detached and gartered under the knee to the full legging style common in the late 161h century.
Image 2 shows a pair of attached hose which are carbon dated to 1355 AD and were found in the Damendorf Bog.
Image 2: Susan Moller Image 4: After a photo in Wlering: War and worship, p Nockert: 114 Bockstenmannen och Margareta Image 3: hans drakt Nockert: Bockstenmannen och hans drakt. pg 61
The knee high hose in image 3 were found on the Bocksten Bog Man generally dated to the th 14 century but were carbon dated between 1290 and 1430.
Moving forward further into the 14th century, hose and braies become a common lower body garment.
Image 5: The Antichrist tortures the faithful- Hortus Deliciarum fol. 242r
Image 6: c 1410-c 1414, The manuscript, known as 'The Book
of the Queen', f.115v
The hose had evolved from a pair of trews to a garment independent from the braies (drawers/underware). As you can see from image 6, they were tied into the braies at the waistband.
By the 16th century men’s hose were worn a variety of ways including: attached to a pair of upper hose, assembled as one piece like leggings, or worn gartered around the knee.
Attached Hose Legging-like Knee high & gartered
Image 8: Zeugbuch Kaiser Maximilian I - Image 9: Lansknecht Image 7: Zeugbuch Kaiser BSB Cod.icon.222, 71v (c1502 Musicians by Paul Dolstein Maxlmilians I [Book of Emperor (c1500-03) Maximilian's Stuff], BSB Cod.lcon.222, 72r, c. 1502; landsknecht
Womens hose remained knee high and gartered throughout the medieval and early modern ages, although ankle sock garments have been found in Germany.
Image 10: Detail from 'der unterjochte Image 11: Courtesy of Whilja' s Ehemann' (the subjugated husband), Corner, Photo of linen inner shoe, found in Regensburg, Altes Rathus, Israhel van Meckenem, end of 15th c., Germany Germany, 15th C. Photo by Pertonilla of London
Other terms that refer to hose in the SCA period are: Chausses (French) Hosen (plural of Hose) Cannions (English - Elizabethan)
A brief note on knitted hose:
There is a surge in historical knitting research and information out there. We have some fabulous resources right here in Avacal for those looking to knit stockings. Knit stockings have existed throughout history as far back as Ancient Egypt and have changed production from single needle (naalbinding) to 2+ needles (modern knitting) over time. Knit socks are period! For all periods! If you’d like more information or resources, please let me know and I can connect you with the right people.
Tips and Tricks
I am terrible at patterning hose from measurements. There are resources out there for it, but I find draping much easier and dynamic. We will go over draping today
Always cut your hose on the bias. This is the only way to get the stretch needed to wear them comfortably without damaging the fabric.
Period appropriate colour choices: o Natural o Tawny o Scarlet o Black (sheep or dyed)
There is some evidence of other colours, but the above are common to all eras. Period appropriate fabric choices: o Wool, tabby or twill o Linen o Rarely Silk
Your woolen hose can be lined making them much less scratchy and VERY warm! Perfect for Avacal's winters. When hand finishing, make sure your back seams are loose or you will split the thread or tear the fabric. Some hose have the foot seam finished on the outside. This seam is hidden in shoes most of the time and having the seam on the outside there is less to bother the foot. Outside seams are also easier to repair and replace worn sections on the foot and heel.
A real difference we see in hose through the years is foot assembly. I find most people want little to no seams under the foot for comfort. So that will be one of the 4 foot styles we will go over. Resources
Books
Mikhalia, Nina & Malcolm-Davies, Jane. The Tudor Tailor. Bratsford London, 2006.
Johnson, Caroline. The King's Servants. Surry, UK, 2009.
Thursfield, Sarah. The Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Carlton, Bedford, UK, 2001.
Websites
Sherts, Trewes & Hose. lij.: Chosen Hosen http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear3.htm1
Viking Mens: Clothing the legs http://urd.priv.no/viking/bukser.html#kania
The Trossfrau sock: https://whiljascorner.wordpress.com/2014/01/14/short-foot-hosen/