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*-Esslinger & Co. FRICTION BAND PINS STAINLESS STEEL STRAIGHT- FLAT END These stainless steel pins Kit# 81.203 Great new punch is supplied with six tips- feature a flat "notch" at Swiss Made 60 Pieces one each .70mm, .80mm, .90mm in long and short one end. Contains 60 pins; lengths. Replacement pins available in 6-piece set or six each of 10 diameters individual size/length. Set screw can also be replaced. from .8mm- 1.2mm. Swiss made. HoROLOGICAL,. HoROLOGICAL™ TIMES Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-C/ockmakers Institute TIMES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES VOLUME 29, NUMBER 7, JULY 2005 American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute (AWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513)367-9800 FEATURE ARTICLES Fax: (513)367-1414 10 Patek Philippe 2005 Technical Innovations E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awci.com By Suitbert Walter Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (ESD 20 Switzerland and Basel for Watchmakers Closed National Holidays By Jack Kurdzionak Donna K. Baas : Managing Editor, Advertising Manager 26 Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, LayouVDesign Associate The Care of Pivots, Part 2, By Laurie Penman 32 Certification Central, By Vincent E. Schrader James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director Education &Technical Director Test Validity and Testing Schedule Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor COLUMNS Manuel Yazijian, CMW: Watchmaking Instructor Certification Coordinator 16 The Modern German Clock Movement, By Mark Butterworth Nancy L. Wellmann: Education Coordinator Part 55, Code and Engineering Changes to the Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator Urgos Units to 2005: An Update Heather Weaver: Receptionist/Secretary Jim Meyer: IT Director DEPARTMENTS HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COM MimE James Sadilek: Chairman 2 President's Message, By Jim Door Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW 2 Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic Robert D. Porter, CMW E-mail: [email protected] 4 Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 6 Ask Huck, By J. M. Huckabee AWCI OFFICERS Jim Door: President 31 AWCI New Members Dennis Warner: Vice President 36 From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW, FA WI: Secretary Mark Butterworth : Treasurer 39 Bulletin Board

AWCI DIRECTORS 48 Industry News Mark Baker, CMW 52 Classified Advertising Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMC, CMEW, FA WI Joseph Juaire 56 Advertisers' Index James Sadilek 56 AWCI Employee Directory James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW Glenn D. Gardner, CMW: Affiliate Chapter Director Doug Thompson, CW, CEWT: Research & Education Council Director EDUCATION Willem Van Kempen: Industry Advisory Board Director 15 AWCI Evening Classes in Watch and Clock Repair 1M MEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT 34 AWCI Certified Watchmaker & CMW Upgrade Exams Jack Kurdzionak, CW 51 AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair FELLOW - American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Robert F. Bishop ·Harold J. Herman James H. Broughton J.M. Huckabee SPECIAL INTEREST Fred S. Burckhardt Gerald G. Jaeger Alice B. Carpenter Benjamin Matz 9 2005 AWCI Board Voting Results David A. Christianson Robert A. Nelson 19 AWCI Fiscal Year End George Daniels ·Hamilton E. Pease Wes Door Archie B. Perkins 19 AWCI Directors' E-mail Address Directory •Henry B. Fried William 0. Smith, Jr. 35 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, Sept. 7-11,2005 Josephine F. Hagans Milton C. Stevens •Orville R. Hagans ·Marvin E. Whitney 40 Don't Miss the Mississippi, AWCI's 45th Annual Meeting Ewell D. Hartman 'Deceased 47 Watchmakers/Ciockmakers Association of Ohio Convention Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited wi1hout wrinen pennission from !he American Watchmake~lanake!i lnslitute. Copo,oright ~2005 by !he American Watchmakon-aockmakers Institute. HOROLOG/CAJ. nMES (/SSNO 145-9546) i<; puWished month~ and copyrighted by the American Watch· COVER make~.Ciockmakels Institute, 701 Ente!prise Drive, Harrison, OH 4SOJ0.1696. Subscriplion price fur the puWic is $19.00 per year l$6.50 per copy). Member.; subscriplion is $35.00 which is included with annual This month's cover features dues of $19.00. Perio

We are fast approaching the annual meeting of the Board of Directors. This is the time when we evaluate what happened in the last year, act on committee reports and plan out the next year.

Committees are an important part of the A WCI. They do a lot of work, investigating proposals, making their own proposals, finding ways to help our organization to meet its obligations to our membership.

In the past there has often been a period of several months of delay after the annual meeting before most committees begin work. We are going to be trying something different this year to speed up the process. I plan on asking for approval on all committee chairpersons at the annual meeting. The committee chairs will then receive a list of potential commit­ tee members. The chairs will contact these individuals-checking their desire to serve, giving them a better idea of the duties to be asked of them and then they will make recommendations to the president as to the make-up of the committee. The president will then submit the committee lists to the Board for approval.

Serving on a committee is both a great honor and a duty. Please carefully consider volunteering. If you are interested please contact the office ([email protected], 1-866-367-2924 or fax 513-367-1414) with your request. (A Committee Volunteer form is available on page 46 of this issue.) When you do, please state not only which committees you wish to serve on but also your contact information and why you wish to serve on those committees. Please include any pertinent information as to your quali­ fications to serve on the committee.

The committees are: Constitution and Bylaws; Finance; Nominating (searches for candidates to run for the Board); Education; Horological Times; Book Review; Technology; Membership; Publicity; Honor Awards; Strategic Action; Ethics; Video Review.

Please send your requests in soon. We would like as many as possible before the annual meeting so we can get to work as soon as possible. I thank you in advance for your support of the A WCI. Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW

The A WCI-ELM (Eduation, Library and Museum) Charitable Trust is a very important and key part of our future. In order for the Trust to be of value to our profession it has to have the funds in place to pursue its mission. The ELM Trustees and the office staff continue to work to find ways to help improve the financial status of the ELM Trust. Many of the writers for the Horological Times donate their writers fees to the ELM Trust. Many of you also give to the ELM Trust. This past year A WCI members set a record by giving a total of$ 7,201.24 to the Trust during the annual A WCI dues billing cycle, and we thank you very much for your gift.

Recently the A WCI-ELM Charitable Trust received a very generous donation from Mrs. Janet W. Harrison. Mrs. Harrison is the niece of the late Marvin E. Whitney, FAWCI. Mr. Whitney, as many of you will remember, was active in the A WCI and the ELM Trust from their inception until his passing in May of 1995. He is remembered for the many things that he did for A WCI. His name will be forever recognized in the horological world for the books that he authored, The Ship's Chronometer and Military Timepieces. These two books are sold all over the world and are highly sought after by those who repair and collect these types of timepieces. Mrs. Harrison has generously assigned all rights of the two books that Marvin authored to the ELM Charitable Trust. What that means to the ELM Trust is that it (the ELM Trust) will receive the 15% royalties from the sale of each book after the publishing cost are recouped. This will be a nice shot in the arm for funding the Trust. Mrs. Harrison said, "I know that this is what my uncle would have wanted me to do." The ELM Trustees send a heartfelt thank you to Mrs. Harrison. Please see pages 40-41 to learn more about the ELM Trust's annual fundraising dinner in Minneapolis, MN, sponsored by Rolex USA and Swatch Group USA.

If you haven't made plans to attend this year's A WCI 45'h Anniversary celebration in Minneapolis, MN, time is running out. This is where the main business of the Institute takes place. You will see your organization's representatives in action, and you can also be a part of that action. The fellowship alone is worth the price of registration as you will have the opporru~ry to meet fellow horologists and discuss all aspects of your profession. Sharing ideas and methods with your peers is very important in any profession. See page 44 for a listing of all the speakers and the topics they will be presenting. I'm sure there is something for everyone.

The trade fair on Saturday is a good time for you to meet several suppliers of horological goods. There are always a number of items on display. This might also be the only time during the year that you are able to inspect items that interest you. Company representatives will be present to answer your questions. This can make a big difference when you are purchasing new equipment.

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Question train. As the pinion turns, the "flirt" rides Can you tell me approximately when this along on one of the leaves of the escape pin­ pocket watch was made? It was my great ion for about 1/40th of a revolution until it grandfather's, passed down to me. It is a escapes from the leaf and flies around the "Fritz Piquet Geneve" with a jumping sec­ other 39/ 40th of a revolution until it is ond hand (start/stop button). It was en­ caught by the next pinion leaf. One turn of graved in 1870. the flirt is shown as a one second interval of Ralph Getz, Albuquerque, N M (Continued on page 8.)

Answer Your great grandfather's watch is a very well made, high quality watch with an indepen­ dent center seconds hand. The watch has two ordinary time trains (set of wheels and pinions) to record both the current time (on one train) and to record the passage of a short event (on the other train). Yet the watch has only one balance wheel and one escape wheel. The secondary, or timing train, has its own mainspring, but it has no escape wheel. Instead it uses a finger or flirt fixed on the fifth wheel that engages the leaves of the escape pinion of the other time

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About Watchmaker's Lathe Identity of Lathe Collets Bearings Question Question What are the numbers on lathe collets, especially those for the watchmaker's lathe? What bearings are best in the spindle of a watchmaker's lathe? Answer Answer In my experience, they all indicate collet-open­ ing diameter. The most commonly used numbers I do not know what is best; and I believe "best" are metric. For example, a #50 is 5.0 mm; and a may be different in various lathe uses. Let's dis­ #32 is 3.2 mm. The size is the bore diameter with cuss the bearings. the bore at its cylindrical state.

I have four lathes with steel cone bearings, one Another number system is in English fractions. with bronze cones, and one with preloaded ball For example 1/4 inch may be #14, or 1/8 inch bearings. may be #18.

The spindle of the ball bearing lathe does not Still another system may be twist drill numbers. turn as free as does the cone spindle lathes. It For example, a #31 (drill#) is 0.120 inch, and a does not need frequent lubricant. #38 is 0.101 inch. Some other collets I own are in B & S wire gage numbers. The steel cone bearing lathes need frequent lu­ bricant, and sling oil at high-speed operation. Of the watchmaker's lathes, we have two com­ The spindles turn silky smooth. mon size collets; namely WW and Mosely style. They differ in overall length, head angle, and key The lathe with bronze bearings turns very free, width and length location. Of the Mosely style, requires frequent lubrication and is excellent in one is called conoidal, and another called Mosely accuracy. #2. These have various key locations in the lathe spindle. Each of the cone bearing lathes is used at high speeds and heavy loads of clockmaking. In my favorite lathes, I cut the conoid curve out of the spindle, removed the spindle key and made In my application, all six are completely satis­ a spacer to use under the draw bar knob. Now I factory. If I was checking out a lathe for pos­ can use any of the Mosely or WW collets in the sible purchase, I would be more concerned about same lathe. how smooth the spindle turns when the bear­ 0 ings are adjusted to near zero clearance.

The spindle mouth and smooth running bear­ ings are more important than surface finish headstock-tailstock alignment and other exter­ nal features.

I would be cautious of a lathe that shows evi­ dence of use as a production grinder, or one with damage to the bed flat surfaces. Also beware of a broken pulley; the spindle may be damaged.

6 Horological Times · July 2005 The Rolex Report- 4th Edition NEW- Revised Edition

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7/05 Questions & Answers (Continued from page 4.)

the center seconds hand. This rapid movement of the flirt from one leaf to the next makes the center seconds hand appear to "jump" and thus the name "jump seconds" also refers to this type of watch.

This center seconds hand is used to time short intervals of time. It is con­ trolled by a lever that stops and starts the hand without interrupting the main time train that continues to give the current time. functioning of the timepiece. By 1862 Adolph Nicole, a Swiss watch­ Your watch represents a technologi­ maker living in London, invented the cal step in the development of the "fly-back" seconds hand that allowed second hand, since there is no sub­ chronograph, or timepiece with a the second hand to be easily reset to seconds hand on your dial; and as a stopwatch and lapsed time recorder zero after timing an event. short duration timing hand. for the recording of events of short to long duration. Prior to this a cen­ Independent center seconds watches I noticed that your watch has a pin­ ter seconds watch would have a le­ were made throughout the 19'h cen­ set button that had to be depressed ver to stop the watch's balance wheel tury until about 1885 when the "fly­ in order to reset the hour and minute so the interval of elapsed time could back" mechanism came into com­ hands. The pin setting was in use be read. Unfortunately, this also mon use among makers of timers and between about 1870 and 1900 when stopped the watch, which would then chronographs. Most of the indepen­ the stem set mechanism became need to be restarted, and the hands dent center second hand watches, by popular among watch manufacturers. reset to the current time. With your the way, had three sub-dials on their Prior to 1870 the watches would be watch the short event could be re­ main dial ... one showing the current set using a key on the second wheel corded without interrupting the time, one showing running seconds of the time train. With this in mind I of the timepiece train and the other would say that your grandfather's showing the minutes and hours that watch dates from 1870, the date en­ had elapsed when timing an event of graved on its case. Watches of this long duration. The center seconds type were always expensive to make hand of course was in the center of and were not very common. the main dial and had a track of 60 seconds around the outer edge of the Fritz Piquet, by the way, was a maker dial to show seconds as they were of complicated watches in Geneva. elapsing. The maker of these watches With his partner, Backmann, his firm did this by putting a dial train on each won a silver medal for horology at of the two time trains of the watch, the Paris Universal Exposition in each running off the second wheel 1878. And as Piquet and Sons, his of each train. Yours, however, has firm was one of the group of Swiss L-! only the one dial train on the time­ Collective that won First Prize at the piece train and no dial train or any Melbourne Exhibition in 1881. means of recording more than one 0 minute of elapsed time. Your watch's center second hand was used no doubt as a continuously running

8 Horological Times · July 2005 2005 AWCI Board Voting Results

The tabulation of ballots in A WCI's 2005 Board of Directors Election is complete. Three directors were chosen from a slate of six candidates. Those elected to serve three-year terms are: Matt Henning, Roland R. Iverson, and Dennis J. Warner.

Matt Henning, CW Roland R. Iverson, CMC Dennis J. Warner, CW Hadley, Massachusetts South Elgin, Illinois Cedar Park, Texas

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July 2005 · Horological Times 9 Patek Philippe 2005 Technical Innovations The Brand Of Kings On The Move To Push Limits

© March 2005 Suitbert Walter and ThePuristS.com

Suitbert Walter

Suitbert Walter was born in 1961 in Dusseldoif, Germany. After leaving school in 1978 he started to learn and work as a gold and silversmith. In 1981 he began learning and working as a woodwind instrument maker. Mr. Walter started collecting, repairing and restoring watches in early 1990 as a pesonal passion. Since 2003 he has been a member ofThePuristS.com administrative team and forum moderator for ThePuristS.com. He joined the Patek Philippe forum at the beginning of2005.

Patek Philippe is often referred to as the "king of brands and brand of kings", famous for complicated time­ pieces which combine traditional craftmanship of highest skills and a timeless, easy to identify appearance. This is certainly part of the brand's philosophy; as Philippe and Thierry Stern put it, "a Patek Philippe time­ piece is born from the movement, which is in the center of the devel­ opment and design process".

While the traditional values and fo­ cus on the watchmaking aspects is much appreciated among enthusiasts and collectors, a different facet of Patek Philippe is not always recog­ nized: innovation. Nonetheless, the history of the brand is rich with ex­ amples and a considerable number of patents granted are proof of this dedication.

Many improvements are still valid today; not only the Gyromax free­ sprung balance (introduced in 1950), but pieces like the Patek Philippe "Telequartz" do remind us the brand is always open for new fields and new solutions.

Therefore it may not come as a surprise that the brand will again in­ troduce a true innovation. It is a stun­ ning technical novelty: a newly

10 Horological Times · July 2005 Patek Philippe Caliber 315, 2005 version

developed silicon escape wheel for It is worth noting this first limited the Swiss lever escapement! In addi­ series actually is the first step for a tion, and while not as new certainly broader introduction of this new not less remarkable, a ceramic ball technique, to follow at some later bearing for the automatic winding ro­ point. Therefore, the new limited tor ("new" in terms of the basic tech­ edition is by no means a "high tech nology, which was introduced by an­ show piece"; actually it marks the other Swiss manufacturer recently). beginning of a regular, serial production part! Silicon Escape Wheel To start with the silicon escape Personally I find this idea very in­ wheel, the first incarnation of this triguing and, simply put, this seem­ Silicon wheel new technology will be the caliber ingly simple wheel to be long over­ 315 with a changed fourth and escape due. For several reasons it is a very wheel bridge, which allows a perfect view of the escape wheel. The first watch available will be a limited se­ ries of 100 pieces (which probably will have a slightly different, even more stunning, bridge as the normal production pieces, shown in the pic­ tures!). At the same time, this edi­ tion will introduce the new "Patek Philippe Advanced Research" con­ cept; as Patek Philippe proudly em­ phasizes, an "opportunity for a lim­ ited number of connoisseurs and col­ lectors of technologically unusual timepieces to acquire a watch en­ dowed with a key milestone in ho­ rology". Comparison: Conventional steel wheel (left); silicon wheel (right)

July 2005 Horological Times 11 promising development and much more admirable is the fact that Patek Philippe invested so much effort in real technical improvements, which, on the other hand, once installed will remain almost invisible, hidden deeply inside and thus not as promi­ nent or easy to present to the public. It is a facet of what makes Patek Philippe so special: while other brands, in order to find a balance between costly development and ef­ fective PR work, may wish to intro­ duce the next exotic case material, Patek Philippe prefers to add real technical and horological value. And, maybe even more important, true value and benefit for the customer.

To Combat the Oldest Problem In Watchmaking Within a Swiss lever escapement, a technology in use for almost 100% Silicon wafer of all wrist watch movements, the steel escape wheel together with the pallet (and ruby pallet jewels) is among the most sensitive points, particularly in terms of (proper) lu­ a solution. Beyond this point, any re­ showed no change in friction! This brication. In fact most of the recent search does have to include the should be one of the real and very improvements at this point were search for new materials, which are rare progresses in an exemplary key based either on improved lubricants able to work together without any function of horology. or lubrication methods. lubrication but with similar proper­ ties in terms of friction and long term Some Details But even the best lubricants are in­ reliability. A brief description of the technol­ sufficient whenever the key problem ogy behind the silicon wheel may is to keep them in place. The new silicon escape wheel seems help to understand. When speaking to be an ideal match: silicon is light, of industrial applications of silicon, Capillarity helps the oil to creep into hard, antimagnetic and resists any immediately the field of electronics the jewel holes and do its work where corrosion. Thanks to relatively new comes to mind, where silicon is one it is needed. Yet the escapement technologies it is possible to apply a of the key materials of the last de­ parts, escape wheel teeth and pallet surface finish of an excellent, smooth cades. One of the side effects of the jewels are interacting in a completely quality. tremendous research is its applica­ different way and lubricants in this tion for micro mechanics, mainly by place always have a tendency to "run In fact the unlubricated combination developing completely new manufac­ away". One may improve the lubri­ of a silicon wheel and ruby pallet does turing processes. For electronic cant in order to prevent this effect; show the same behavior in terms of (mainly semi-conductor) applica­ but Patek Philippe went a major step friction as the classic combination of tions the silicon layer usually is very forward. Given lubrication is prob­ a steel wheel and ruby pallet in per­ thin and does not exceed a few thou­ lematic, a logical consequence is to fectly clean and freshly lubricated sands of a millimeter. When it comes abandon any lubrication at all. While condition. But the benefits of the to watch parts like the escape wheel, this is easily said, the traditional new technique reach far wider: the at least a tenth of a millimeter is nec­ implementation of the Swiss lever es­ main progress of the silicon wheel is essary in order to provide sufficient capement utilizing a steel wheel and the long-term stability. And it stability. The main manufacturing ruby pallets does not allow for such proved to work, as long time testing method is and was photolithography

12 Horological Times · July 2005 and etching: a photo resistant coat­ well within the world of watch quality is essential, in one step in my ing is applied to the surface of the mechanics. opinion really is a dream solution. silicon slice (this slice is cut of a And knowing the traditional produc­ mono crystalline silicon ingot), a 21st Century Production tion of a escape wheel requires 50 glass mask protects the areas that A remarkable advantage of this production step, there are 49 possible shall remain and is exposed to UV­ manufacturing process is the fact that errors ruled out in order to achieve a light. After developing (much like a the entire wheel is being crafted in perfect result. photo negative, to give an example), only one production step. the remaining photo will protect this Traditional wheels are riveted to the part of the silicon from etching. Of course the techniques involved pinion and even in this regard the There are basically two different are utterly complicated and most new silicon wheel leads to a new etching methods: wet etching in a expensive, but the advantages are im­ approach. chemical wet solution and the rela­ pressive: a traditionally produced es­ tively new "plasma" or dry etching, cape wheel needs a lot of different Due to new materials and manufac­ where the etching process is achieved steps in manufacturing, each step turing methods, a new shape and by gas discharge. The wet etching likely introducing a problem for method was developed. Different process isn't possible for thicker sili­ keeping tight and precise tolerances from the classic four spoke design of con layers, as it would inevitably lead (each time a part needs fixing or in­ the steel wheel, the new silicon wheel to considerable "undercut" of the dexing, precision is influenced- truly has an interesting three double spoke vertical planes, i.e. these wouldn't precise parts production traditionally layout. Three sections form the cen­ remain rectangular. Plasma etching tries to avoid repositioning, which ter hole where it is fitted on the pin­ allows perfectly rectangular vertical often isn't possible). Manufacturing ion. Instead of riveting, the silicon planes even with layers thicker than an escape wheel, one of the parts wheel is press fitted. This, combined a tenth of a millimeter and thus where precision and high surface with the already incredibly exact

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July 2005 Horological Times 13 wheel itself (tolerance is told to be One of the very interesting aspects other components in contact with one micron!), will improve precision of the silicon escape wheel is the fact the escape wheel (pallet and pinion) in sense of running true and flat that it's fully interchangeable to the remain the same, tried parts. which again is very important for traditional steel wheel. Escapement perfect interaction with the pallet. geometry remains untouched and all Ceramic Ball Bearing The ceramic ball bearing marks the other important new development. The well-known steel ball bearings, introduced to horological mechanics about fifty years ago, always turned out to be somewhat problematic for lubrication. These are very sensitive for over application of the lubricant, even the right amount of lubricant does not provide for problems due to deterioration. The main problem being the steel balls starting to slide instead of rolling and, as a result, con- . . tact corros10n or excessive wear can take place. Omitting any lubrication, which seems to work fine in the be­ ginning, the problems are almost the same.

The ceramic ball bearings offer a sound solution for all the above; the combination of balls made of zirco­ nium oxide with a stainless steel in­ ner and outer cage does overcome all problems mentioned. These ball Patek Philippe new Caliber 315 bearings are not depending on any lubricants and contact corrosion is no longer an issue. A very convinc­ ing solution.

It should be noted, that these devel­ opments were made in cooperation with either specialized suppliers (in the case of the ceramic ball bearing and in the case of the silicon wheel the "IMT" (the Institute de Micro­ technique de U niversite de Neuchatel), the "CSEM" (Centre Suisse Electronique et Microtech­ nique) and the "COMLAB" (com­ mon laboratory of both, IMT and CSEM).

Kudos to Patek Philippe and their partners in research and develop­ ment, a great and promising start for Baselworld news! 0 Patek Philippe's new ceramic ball bearing of Caliber 315

14 Horological Times · July 2005 AWCI EVENING CLASSES IN CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIR

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute is offering weekly evening classes (1 0 consecutive Wednesdays) in clock and watch repair. These will be basic instructional classes, loosely struc­ tured to adapt to the needs of the students. Watch and clock classes will run simultaneously on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM at the training facilities at AWCI in Harrison, Ohio. Instructors: Laurie Penman, Clock Repair Tom Schomaker, CMW, Watch Repair

Schedule: Summer Session July 27, 2005 - September 28, 2005

Location: AWCI Training Facility 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030

Cost: $350 per 10-week session Registrants must be AWCI members ($79 yearly membership) Tool and material costs are extra For more information or to register for a class, contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924, ext. 303 or e-mail: [email protected]

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July 2005 · Horological Times 15 The Modern German Clock Movement Part 55 Code and Engineering Changes to Urgos Units to 2005: An Update Mark Butterworth

U rgos has had a long history in the story of did not fit into the core business of Walter the German clock movement. To give a brief Steinbach. It was realized that by this time overview from Karl Kochmann's Clock & there was now a growing market for the Watch Trademark Index-European Origin, U rgos movement as a replacement unit. The "U rgos was founded in 1920 by Christian machinery was moved to the U.S. and the Haller, Johannes Jauch, Robert Papst, and movements are now produced by Hermie Heinrich Rumminger as Rumminger & Co. Black Forest Clocks in Amherst, Virginia. G.m.b.H." in Schwenningen in the Black Forest region of Germany. In 1923 the name It should be helpful to know that there are was changed to Urgos and by 1925 had more three basic series produced (UW32 ... , than 50 employees, more than 100 in 1929 UW66 ... , and UW03 ... ). The UW refers to and 140 in 1936. As with many companies Uhren Werke or clock work and the series in Germany immediately after WWII, any prefix number refers to the plate size. The industrial machinery was removed that first units ended with the letter "A" such as could have contributed to the war effort. By UW32/1A. This suffix letter was used on 1956 they were once again expanding and all units with manual beat escapement. When by the mid 1970s had 250 employees. Look­ the auto beat escapement was introduced, ing back, many see this as the high point of the code letter became "B". Each time an the clock industry in terms of numbers of engineering change was made, the code let­ employees, companies, and units produced. ter suffix was changed so that the internal parts could be correctly identified. Fortu­ After this time due to increasing automa­ nately, throughout all these changes, the tion and other factors, there was overcapac­ movements as a whole could be inter­ ity in the industry and one at a time facto­ changed although not all of the parts ries closed their doors. I am told that at its individually were interchangeable. peak there were 100 clock and clock parts related factories in Schwenningen alone. Changes have been made for one or several About 1990, Urgos closed its doors for a reasons: short time and was then purchased by Walter 1. To improve the product. Steinbach Co. of Donaueschingen, which 2. To reduce the number of different parts were metal fabricators. Unfortunately in the being required for both Hermie and U rgos. shut down and move a lot of the valuable 3. To reduce cost. technical and historic documents were sim­ 4. To compensate for the fact that a particu­ ply destroyed. The new company brought lar manufacturer of a part either no longer back production of the weight-driven move­ makes the part or went out of business. ments but they simply could not compete in the market for new movements for fin­ The most striking example of the first in­ ished clocks. Ultimately they were pur­ stance is the replacement of the Urgos auto chased by Franz Hermie & Sohn of beat escape wheel and verge system with that Gosheim, Germany at the end of 1998, as it of Hermie. The U rgos system had been

16 Horological Times · July 2005 d{knz4 BLACK FOREST CLOCKS Manufacturer of Clocks and Clock Movements In our continuous effort to improve products, we have listed below, the most recent changes we made on Urgos movements. Model Change Date New Movement Code UW32 Series A) Cable Driven Hermie escapement Spring 2002 Brass instead of casted cable drums Fall2003 Hermie hammers Spring 2005 H

B) Chain Driven Hermie chains Spring 2000 Hermie escapement Spring 2002 Hermie hammers Fall 2004 H UW66 Series A) Cable Driven Hermie escapement Spring 2002 Steel instead of casted holding plates for cables Spring 2003 Hermie hammers Spring 2005 H

B) Chain Driven Hermie escapement Spring 2002 Hermie hammers Spring 2005 H UW03 Series A) Cable Driven Hermie escapement Spring 2003 Steel instead of casted holding plates for cables Spring 2005 E

B) Chain Driven Hermie escapement Spring 2003 c Figure 1

CHANGE HISTORY LEITERS AFTER THE MOVEMENT STAMP UW32s I UW66s I UW03s

UW32 CABLE DRIVEN UW66 CHAIN DRIVEN 1. Until Spring 2002, the letter "E", equipped with casted cable 1. Until 2002, the letter "A", equipped with Urgos escapement. drums and Urgos escapement. 2. The current letter is "G", which is equipped with the Hermie 2. Until end of 2004, the letter "F", equipped with casted cable escapement. drums and Hermie escapement. 3. The current letter is "G", equipped with brass cable drums UW03 CHAIN DRIVEN and Hermie escapement. 1. Until 2003, the letter "8", equipped with the Urgos escapement. UW32 CHAIN DRIVEN 2. The current letter is "C", which is equipped with the Hermie 1. Until Spring 2000, the letter "E", equipped with Urgos escapement. chains and chain wheels and Urgos escapement. 2. Until 2002, the letter "P', equipped with Hermie chain UW03 CABLE DRIVEN wheels and chains and Urgos escapement. 1. Until2003, the letter "8", equipped with casted holding 3. The current letter is "G", which is equipped with Hermie plates and Urgos escapement. chain wheels, Hermie chains and Hermie escapement. 2. The current letter "D", equipped with casted holding plates and Hermie escapement. UW66 CABLE DRIVEN 3. Soon to be introduced, the letter "E" equipped with steel 1. Until2002, the letter "A", equipped with casted holding holding plates and Hermie escapement. plates and Urgos escapement. 2. Until2003, the letter "8", equipped with casted holding plates and Hermie escapement. 3. The current letter is "G", which is equipped with steel holding plates and Hermie escapement.

Figure 2

July 2005 · Horological Times 17 universally disliked by the clockmaker because it was Figure 1 shows the earlier changes in letter coding tied not only troublesome, but also gave rise to a very small to the respective dates and Figure 2 shows the very pendulum swing. latest ones as of Spring 2005. These documents also show that it is vital, if attempting to replace parts, to Mr. Helmut Mangold of HBFC has kindly offered specify completely the execution information of the documents summarizing the changes that have been movement. It also shows why some individual parts made at the Amherst, VA facility. It is important to may not be obtained. I hope this helps. realize that the code letter, which is part of the execu­ tion or model number (e.g. UW32319G), is the letter Final thought: "Progress always involves risk; you can't referred to in the documents provided. The units manu­ steal second base and keep your foot on first. "-Frederick factured by Hermie also have a code letter separate from Wilcox. this stamped on the rear plate of the movement. This 0 latter code letter is a date code that is the same as that used on all Hermie movements whether manufactured in the U.S. or in Germany. This code system started with the letter "A" in 1988 and for the year 2005 uses the letter "R".

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18 Horological Times · July 2005 AWCI's Fiscal AWCI Directors' Year End E-mail Address Directory Director AWCI E-mail Address

Jim Door: President jdoor@ awci.com

A WCI's fiscal year end is June 30, 2005. Dennis Warner: Vice President dwarner@ awci.com Those parties who have provided goods and Alice Carpenter: Secretary acarpenter@ awci.com services to AWCI up to and including June 30, 2005 must submit those claims or in­ Mark Butterworth: Treasurer [email protected] voices to A WCI no later than July 15,2005. Mark Baker mbaker@ awci.com This includes chapter and individual ex­ Gerald Jaeger gjaeger@ awci.com pense reimbursement claims. Claims or in­ Joseph Juaire [email protected] voices received after that date will be sub­ James Sadilek [email protected] ject to additional review by our accounting James Zimmerman firm. They are also subject to not being paid jzimmerman@ awci.com by A WCI. Thank you in advance for your Glenn D. Gardner: Affiliate Chapter Director [email protected] consideration and attention to this matter. Doug Thompson: REC Director dthompson@ awci.com Willem Van Kempen: lAB Director wvankempen@ awci.com

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July 2005 · Horological Times 19 Switzerland and Basel for Watchmakers

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

Every spring, Basel, Switzerland hosts the Former A WCI director, Tamara Houk, was World Watch and Clock Fair. This is the there accompanied by her business associ­ premier exhibition of its kind in the world. ate Gayle Merritt. My son Dave and his wife Representatives from the watch, clock, jew­ Trish accompanied me. We arrived in Swit­ elry, and associated industries have their lat­ zerland a few days before the Fair. Dave and est products on display for the 80,000+ at­ Trish wanted to do a bit of sightseeing be­ tendees to look over as they make their buy­ fore the Fair, while Tamara, Gayle, and I ing decisions for the coming year. Although visited the service department at the Omega buyers for major jewelry companies the factory in Bienne. Our host, Peter Saunier, world over make up the bulk of the people welcomed us. Peter is the technical advisor attending the Fair, this year there were a few for Omega's world service organization. He A WCI members there to check out Swit­ gave us a brief overview of how the Omega zerland and the Fair to learn what it has to service department operates before escort­ offer to people who earn their living repair­ ing us through their entire service depart­ ing Swiss watches. For the watchmaker, the ment. The majority of their work comes Basel exhibition is a glimpse into the future from Europe, but they do accept work from of his business. The new products exhibited all over the world. In the Bienne facility, they at Basel will be in the retail stores later this have the skilled staff, parts, and equipment year. The sales staff of the major watch re­ to rebuild almost any Omega watch ever tailers will be familiar with the styles show­ produced. cased at Basel long before the watchmaker learns about the repair challenges that these Peter escorted us through the case and new products will present to him as the bracelet refinishing department as the first watches gradually make their way to the stop in our tour. There, skilled polishers repair shop. restore karat gold and stainless steel cases

Gayle, Tamara, Peter and Jack at Omega

20 Horological Times · July 2005 A few of the folks at Basel

and bracelets to their original condition. Skilled gold­ smiths in the case department repair damaged gold Trish, Dave, Tamara, Gayle and Jack at the Breguet display cases. Specialists in the various movement repair areas do movement repair according to the skill level required to repair or exchange a given movement. One group of technicians specializes in movement exchange. In this and I visited with various watch companies to check area the movements are replaced with new movements out their products. Stainless steel watch cases, with and or rebuilt ones of the same caliber. Another group of without diamonds, were well represented. Swiss watch watchmakers overhaul Omega mechanical movements companies are very confident in the mechanical watch's that are not suitable for exchange. These movements future. Almost every maker has a mechanical line and bear a serial number or their high replacement cost some manufacturers sell nothing but mechanical makes them suitable for overhauling. Vintage and an­ watches. These are not the mechanicals of thirty years tique Omega watches are rebuilt by a small group of ago. The mechanical watches sold today are predomi­ highly skilled watchmakers. Although Omega has a nately automatic movements, many of which are chro­ comprehensive stock of spare parts for their watches, nometer rated, with complications ranging from simple they sometimes do not have a needed part available from calendars to tourbillons and repeaters. In between these their stock. When required, their custom shop can two extremes are found watches with power reserve reproduce unavailable and obsolete parts. indicators, chronographs, moon dials, large calendar readouts, off center hands, and anything else the de­ After the tour, Peter explained how Omega is in the signers can think of. One manufacturer, Glycine, has a process of standardizing the repair process in all of its wristwatch with three automatic movements that dis­ markets around the world. Omega's goal is to be able play four time zones. Needless to say, the case is large. to have its products repaired to the same high quality Speaking of large, large is "in" for wristwatches, some standards as they are in Switzerland, in every country of which are so large they are using pocket watch move­ in which they do business. It is encouraging owners of ments in wristwatch cases. Omega repair facilities to staff them with qualified watchmakers who meet Omega standards. Each shop The finish and appearance of Swiss products is gener­ should have the equipment and spare parts on hand to ally superb. Sapphire crystals and water resistant con­ properly service Omega products. Omega wants its struction are now standard for most watches. Brace­ customers to have confidence in the product and its lets, crowns, and straps are often highly specialized and service, no matter where in the world the watch is sold. specific to the watch brand. Although mechanical watches are featured at Basel, quartz watches are still All of us were off to Basel the next morning for the the largest segment of the industry, not only in opening day of the Fair. This being their first visit to quantity but also in dollar revenue. Quartz watches the Fair, Tamara and Gayle went off independently to predominate in the lower and lower-medium price explore the cavernous halls of the exhibit. Dave, Trish lines, while mechanicals comprise the majority of the

July 2005 · Horological Times 21 of Bergeon's regular products). The most impressive new tool on display at Basel was a pressure-sensitive hand setting tool.

The basic structure of this tool is similar to the tradi­ tional turret type that brings one of four pushers over the hand shafts. One pusher is for the hour hand, an­ other for the minute hand, the third for the sweep sec­ ond hand, and a fourth for chronograph recorder hands. An adjustable stop for each pusher limits the depth the pusher can be lowered so that each hand is installed to the appropriate height. This is where its similarity to the traditional hand setting tool ends. This tool has an electronic force sensor in its base, coupled to a digital meter, to measure and display the force used to push each hand onto its shaft. If the hand socket is a bit too .J'lti',YNYI small, it needs more force to fit the hand onto its re­ spective shaft. A hand pushed on with too much force 0- :'/-h~"fl/iY'/'"' creates a hellish situation in the future for the repairer removing these hands. A hand that was installed too Bergeon's new hand setting tool tightly can be easily distorted or broken when it is re­ moved, through no fault of the repairer. In fact, some factory service centers are now including complete sets upper-medium to high-priced products. Quality Swiss of new hands in every overhaul. They recognize that quartz products are well respected and command a pre­ the hands have been installed too tight when the watch mium price in the marketplace when compared to the was manufactured. Hand sockets a bit too large will products from other parts of the world. require less force to install. These hands will be liable to loosen or fall off their shafts. Either way, if the force The next stop was the tool and machinery building to used to push the hand on does not fall within a speci­ visit with Bergeon, Witschi, Vibrograf and too many fied range, the watchmaker will be alerted to the prob­ others to list. The folks at Bergeon were very excited lem so that the hole size in the hand can be modified. about the changes that were taking place in their com­ pany. The changes include new management, industry A set of adjustable torque screwdrivers in various sizes relationships, and products. Longtime director, Mr. was another of the new products on display at Bergeon. Michel Soldini is retiring after thirty-plus years of ser­ These screwdrivers have an adjustable torque range that vice. The new management team, lead by Mr. Vladimir will permit the watchmaker to vary the torque limit on Zennaro, will be maintaining Bergeon's role as a sup­ each screwdriver, enabling him to tighten each watch plier of traditional watchmaker's tools while bringing screw to the factory specified torque. No screw will be exciting new products to the market. Mr. Zennaro and too loose nor will any be too tight. The watchmaker his colleagues emphatically stated that Bergeon would may not have the hand setting tool or the screwdrivers be supporting watchmakers long into the future with on his bench soon, but it is a glimpse into the future tools to repair watches, both old and new. In addition for those watchmakers visiting Basel. Not too many to the management changes, Bergeon is working in years ago, gradoscopes and automatic dry water resis­ conjunction with leading Swiss watch manufacturing tance testers were on display at Basel before they be­ firms to design new products that are required for the came standard equipment for the twenty-first century production and repair departments of these manufac­ watchmaker. turers. These products are being designed and brought into production with Bergeon's new associate, When in Switzerland, one should visit more than the F. Petitpierre SA. Petitpierre produces very high qual­ Fair. There is much more to see and do nearby. Basel is ity tools for watch manufacturers and repairers, and situated in the northwest corner of Switzerland, right will distribute them through Bergeon's worldwide net­ on the border with Germany and France. On Friday work of distributors and retailers. Tools manufactured evening, the five of us drove north on the autobahn by F. Petitpierre SA will be easily recognized by their into Germany to visit my favorite German restaurant, blue color (as contrasted with the traditional red color located about 15 miles north of Basel. The restaurant,

22 Horological Times · July 2005 Geared railway tracks in the Swiss Alps Dave, T rish,]ack and Tamara in Kleinkems, Germany

Zur Blume, is in the village of Kleinkems, an out of the way, picture perfect, German village a few miles east of the autobahn exit. The traditional German food and drink served there were exquisite, and the service was top notch. When you visit Basel next year, take a night off and slip into Germany for some Spargel (white as­ paragus), Spaetzle (a type of noodle), homemade soup, meat dishes, beer, wine, coffee, and the best ice cream you have ever tasted.

On Sunday the weather was beautiful (in the high 60s) and we really needed a day off from the Fair. We left the car at our hotel and walked a half-mile to the local Swiss soldiers' memorial, Lucerne bahnhof (railroad station). Switzerland's railroad sys­ tem is Europe's finest, with regularly scheduled trains to just about everywhere in the country. The ticket agent at the railroad station highly recommended a visit to Interlaken via Lucerne (with a stopover to sightsee We did not expect the next part of the journey from in Lucerne). We were not disappointed with her rec­ Lucerne to Interlaken to be any more than an ordinary ommendations. If you don't speak German or French railroad trip, but we were wrong. Our geared (cog rail­ (Switzerland's two main languages) it is not a prob­ way) train carried us up through the Alps from Lucerne lem. Assistance in English is available in almost every to the Brunig Pass (el. 3396 feet) and then down the place you visit, and I have yet to find a railroad station other side to the resort town of Interlaken. The scen­ that did not have an English-speaking agent to help us. ery was spectacular all the way. Interlaken is a beauti­ Upon arriving in Lucerne we found it to be a beautiful ful resort town situated between two Alpine lakes. We medieval city on the shore of lake Lucerne at the edge of walked around the town that Sunday afternoon until the Swiss Alps. We walked around the city center and did we came upon an old town square with a large stone a little sightseeing before locating a Starbuck's coffee church. We heard live music coming from the church house, where we relaxed with a cup of coffee. After cof­ so we went in to check it out. In front of the altar was fee we explored a little more before we came upon a beau­ a very professional brass band giving a concert to an tiful carved stone memorial in a city park, dedicated to audience seated in the pews. We quietly slipped in and Swiss mercenary soldiers who died defending the French sat down to enjoy the music, which included some King, Louis XVI, during the French revolution. Gershwin and Grofe tunes. After leaving the concert

July 2005 Horological Times 23 A few goodies in Maurizio's shop Alpine view from railroad train

we wandered around until we found a small riverside restaurant. The food was great but the view from the restaurant's windows was spectacular. Look out the window and you could see the Jungfrau (a 13,642 ft. snow covered mountain thirty miles distant). It ap­ peared so close that you could almost reach out and touch it. The combination of a fantastic rail trip, Al­ pine air, and long walks in the sunshine had us ready to return to our hotel for a well-deserved rest that evening.

No trip to Switzerland seems complete without a visit to my two favorite shops in downtown Bienne. Bienne is still the home of Omega, Glycine, Rolex, and a few other brands, but at one time many other companies had their facilities located there or in nearby towns. Brass band playing in a church in Interlaken Maurizio Zannol owns a watch parts and tool business (Fournitures Herrli), at Rue de Jura 15 in downtown Bienne. This basement shop is frequented by knowl­ edgeable watchmakers who enjoy looking around in this collection of tools, parts, and supplies (both new and used) that have come from closed watch factories and spare parts distributors. The prices are fair and Maurizio is fluent in English, German, French and Ital­ ian. It is a great place to spend an hour or two probing around for some hidden treasure in the collection.

The other shop, a few blocks from Fournitures Herrli, is Schupbach SA located at Rue du Milieu 3. Schupbach sells industrial supplies and new watchmaker's tools. The prices for his watchmaker's supplies are fair and they have many hard to find new tools in stock. They also have the largest stock of high quality metal files I have ever seen. Several staff members there speak some English, and they are always eager to help visiting Jungfrau as seen from Interlaken watchmakers.

24 Horological Times · July 2005 S. laRose, Inc. T!1e !ar~e~L drrd t:lt' ll',hi:r~~ \.'. i1oles~1le supplier of il!llOiogic.:Ji p~~~ ts tuu:s. J!ld '>lltJplit:·~ in tile tvorlcl!

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CASTLEGAR by BULOVA 8-Day key wind solid wood case, antique wiped walnut finish. Hinged brass bezel with convex glass. Peter Weber's hotel, Kappel Decorative carved wood accents. Westminster quarter-hour chime and 11 11 11 hour strike. H: 15 , W: 11 , D: 4.75 • 143515 ...... $400.00 ea.

English speaking American watchmakers, who have no PLATE SPREADER AND WHEEL CHECKER experience in Europe, may be hesitant about going to 2 in 1. Used one way this all new Switzerland. Their concerns are: they don't know the tool allows you to control language, where to stay, or how to get around. Although exactly how far you want to these concerns are well founded, Switzerland is a great spread the clock plates. Attach place to go for a first European visit. A new visitor to the included feet & you can visually check wheels up Switzerland can get anywhere he wants by using public to 1 3/411 in diameter transportation. The rail, bus, and trolley systems are for wobble or irregularities. fully integrated and one can purchase a rail pass that Measures 2 3/8" tall, 7" wide, will work on clocks with 11 allows unlimited use of the entire system. Everything plates 1 or more between them. runs on schedule and delays are uncommon. Visitors 063137 ...... $19.95 ea. who choose to rent an auto will find the system of Swiss ELGIN ROLLER STAFF autobahns as up to date as any Interstate highway here Elgin 860 single roller 17Is staff, in the USA. The driving rules are similar to ours and obsolete material. «6 > they drive on the same side of the road. There are many 03-4299 ...... $5.95 ea. good hotels in Switzerland, and all hotels must meet minimum Swiss standards for cleanliness and service. CRYSTAL PRESS/CASE For the past few years we have been staying at Peter CLOSING TOOL Weber's Landgasthof, a small hotel and restaurant in Help make battery changing a the village of Kappel, about 20 miles from Basel. Peter, breeze with this newly designed all metal press. Great for snap his mother, and their staff make every guest feel as wel­ back watch cases, bezel come as if he was a family member. Although in a small rings and inserting village, the hotel is on several bus lines that connect to mineral crystals. 14 two a major rail station. For guests with autos, Peter's ho­ sided dies gives you a total tel has the largest parking lot I have ever seen in Swit­ of 28 sizes ranging from small ladies to large gents. zerland at a hotel. C0-795A ...... $40.25 ea.

In nine more months, the Basel Fair will open for 2006. Books a Supplies • Tools If you have not been there recently, make your plans Watch Material a Clock Material now to go. It will be one of the best investments you Crystal & Mainspring Fitting Service have ever made, not only for your business but also for Customl'r Sl'r\'il'e L'l'nter open Ram · 3pm !\1- F, yourself. If you have any questions about the Basel Fair, :{22:~ Yanc(·yvillc St. (;n•ensboro, N.C. 2740:1 Swiss travel and accommodations, etc., please do not Phone: I-888-7:l2-7G7:~ • Fax:I-800-5:~7-4:l13 hesitate to contact me. Visit us al www.slarose.com 0

July 2005 · Horological Times 25 The Care of Pivots

Part 2

Laurie Penman

In the first of these articles I dealt with the always had a loose fit to begin with, but they case where a new pivot needed to be made, can be too loose and the test for this is not and I discussed friction. The more frequent to shake them up and down and see if any­ need is to refurbish or remake a worn pivot, thing drops out, it is to take a close look at that is what I will concentrate on this month. the meshing of pairs of wheels and pinions.

It should be remembered that pivots and A pivot and hole fit that is too loose, allows pivot holes are interactive and wear in ei­ the arbor to move away from its original ther might require modification (resizing or center, and this leads to contact of gear teeth replacing), in the other. A pivot may be in before the line of centers (Figure 13). Con­ fairly good shape, but thinned down by pre­ tact before the line of centers produces more vious attention and the hole may look to be friction at the point of contact between two worn very little if at all, but the pivot is ob­ gears because the teeth are rolling towards viously a looser fit than it should be. Such a each other after making contact. When con­ situation arises when a previous repairer has tact does not take place until the center line not looked on the pivot and the hole as be­ between the two gears (line of centers), the ing a pair with a need to be matched prop­ teeth are lifting away from each other dur­ erly. American mass-produced movements ing contact. Not only is friction greater for the former case, but the loads on the piv­ Scale 10: 1 ots are greater too, which can lead to bending the arbors, or the pivots, or wearing out the gear teeth. For this reason we make the amount of contact before the line of centers as small as possible, or none (the best condi­ tion). Figure 14

St meshing with 50t. If wear in the pivot holes allows the wheel to move away from the pinion by 0.1 mm, contact will occur well before the line of centers. In this case contact on the line of centers occurs when the pitch circles overlap slightly. A good example of the value of 'depthing'. Figure 13

26 Horological Times · July 2005 happened to the pivot (if there are no bushes in the plate, this is unlikely to have occurred), taking another 0.002" off may be just too much.

Most commonly the clock will have These two ci rcles represent the original If the pivot is smaller than the hole by 'a', failed before things get this bad. hole and the worn one (which allows the the centers only move half of 'a'. pivot tomove to the right). The amount of wear 'a' is equal to the movement of the centers. Our pivot needs to have its grooves removed. First of all measure the di­ Figure 14 ameter with a micrometer so that you will be able to see whether too much metal is being removed. The only way to measure the depth of a groove shows the amount of movement Repolishing without laboratory equipment, is to away from the original centers as a Let us consider a pivot of 0.060" di­ see how much needs to be taken off result of excess looseness between ameter that is worn or rough, with to remove the groove. Experience pivot and hole. Note that ovality in grooves that are probably no deeper helps! the hole has a greater effect than the than 0.002". I have stated diameter same amount of reduction of the of pivot and depth of grooves be­ The Tools pivot diameter. cause the rigidity, or stiffness of the We need to remove metal and then pivot (its resistance to being bent) we must polish it. The traditional It does not matter whether it is the depends on the proportions of these tools for this are a pivot file and a hole that is too large, or the pivot that two dimensions. You can see that a pivot burnisher, often different ends is too small, either is bad. However, small pivot of 0.020" from a round of the same tool (Figure 15). The dull a thin pivot is also more prone to French movement would be reduced end is the file and the shiny one the bending than one that has its origi­ to three quarters of its diameter if a burnisher. Note that the cross-sec­ nal thickness. Comparison with the 0.002" groove needed to be polished tions of both are parallelograms (Fig­ remaining pivots in the clock move­ out. Furthermore the stiffness of the ure 16), which enables the tool to ment will indicate whether the pivot pivot is related to the cube of its di­ enter the corner between the pivot is too thin, particularly comparison ameter! A pivot of 0.020" diameter diameter and with the other end of the arbor in is roughly twice as stiff as the same shoulder and most cases. Of course if the previ­ pivot after 0.002" grooves have been eliminate any ous work was done badly there will polished out of its surface. radius there. If 1L-._ _ _,/ be the remains of the original diam­ the pivot is eter showing as a step, close to the On the other hand our 0.060" pivot held in a nor­ Figure 16 shoulder. One of the few occasions will only be reduced by 19% of its mal chuck or when previous bad workmanship is stiffness, if we polish out 0.002" collet, the welcomed by a good repairer! grooves. Just be aware that if this is pivot will lie to the right of the ar­ the second or third time that this has bor, for some reason Swiss pivot files for this case are called left-hand or gauche. I prefer to use fine diamond files and emery paper backed with brass strip for filing and polishing, and I believe this gives me a quicker and a better job, but I will come to that a little later.

Supporting the Pivot A sturdy pivot (more than 0.060" diameter) often does not need support if the arbor can be held conveniently (Figure 17 shows Figure 15 'convenient' arbors). Since it is not

July 2005 Horological Times 27 Splitbush or collet

Pinion

Figure 17

necessary to rotate the pivot abso­ One end of the arbor can be held in they often are not concentric with lutely true to its center line-a small a chuck or collet while the pivot to the pivots. Any great eccentricity can amount of wobble, say a couple of be filed and polished is supported in be dealt with by slowing the rotation thousandths of an inch, or so, IS a cradle (Figure 18), or the arbor can of the work, but tapers may make it acceptable. be supported by a steady (Figure 19). impossible to hold it securely. Any There is a point to be careful of when one of these methods should allow When the arbor cannot be held in using the steady. It supports the ar­ filing and polishing safely. When it . . this simple fashion, there are other bor directly and not only are antique comes to turnmg a new pivot, methods. arbors tapered in many instances, but or drilling for an insert, similar

0

Melt shellac onto this diameter

28 Horological Times · July 2005 Figure 19

methods may be used to support the file. However, the speed should be is 'highest'. There is a tendency to arbor, but it will be necessary to kept to about 250 rpm because if the bounce and produce a surface that is make sure that the support is robust pivot is rotated much faster the file no longer a true cylinder. enough for these operations. will not follow the existing Only put pressure on the forward Using the Files cylindrical surface unless it is running stroke, although neither style of file A diamond file is able to cut at a dead true, it will tend to cut more is a true cutting tool, pressure on the faster speed than a traditional pivot heavily on the part of the pivot that return stroke collects metal particles

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se habla el espaiiol

July 2005 · Horological Times 29 The final finish is obtained with emery paper supported on a piece of brass strip to keep it flat, a succession of grit sizes (approx. 800, 1,200, 2,000 & 2,500 grits) is required. Emery papers give a better finish than the burnisher. For a really top class polish - which is only needed for high quality clocks with small, hard pivots - crush diamantine in oil on a tin polisher until it goes black. It is a lot of trouble to go to and is really only applicable to clocks like Vienna regulators of the Biedermeyer period.

Figure 20 After polishing, round the end of the pivot with a small file so that it is concentric with the axis of the arbor on both sides of the actual cutting edges. Since the re­ and pivot, this is particularly important if the wheels turn is in the same direction as the rotation of the work, and pinions are ever 'depthed' afterwards. Eccentric the actual cutting speed is reduced and may result in a ends to the pivots will make it difficult to determine tiny radius left after using the diamond file. I have found the proper center distance between wheel and pinion if that the most satisfactory effect results from using a this ever proves necessary. traditional burnisher after cutting back with the dia­ mond. Just a second or two will sharpen the corner Next month I will deal with replacing broken pivots very satisfactorily. Using diamond file and burnisher and arbor extensions. in this way is the fastest, effective method for manual 0 pivot finishing.

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30 Horological Times · July 2005 New Members

Arizona Maryland Pennsylvania Abner, Josh-Glendale, AZ Trauthwein, Victor-Laurel, MD Faust, Kenneth-New Tripoli, PA Bell, Nathaniel S.-Tucson, AZ Long, Jesse Burnett-Venetia, PA Massachusetts California Altenbernd, Nicholas-Cambridge, South Carolina Berler, Martin A.-Healdsburg, MA Brenneman, Ashley-Charleston, CA* sc Jacky Quang Lee-Fairfield, CA* Michigan McPeek, Robert J. Ill-Salinas, Contoni, Matt A.-Clinton Twp, Texas CA* Ml* Herrera, Joe G.-Pleasanton, TX Rogers, Richard A.-Stockton, Klingman, C.J.-Briarcliff, TX CA* Minnesota Orellana, Miguel-Houston, TX Walter, David-Buellton, CA Maiers, M. Colleen-Minnetonka, MN Virginia Colorado Thurber, Audra-Saint Paul, MN Backlund, Nesta Starkie­ Meyer, Steve A.-Arvada, CO Chesapeake, VA* Missouri Luabun, Manu-Annandale, VA Florida Mitchum, John M.-Ozark, MO Brozek, John E.-Saint Peters­ Schwartz, Chris-Seymour, MO Washington burg, FL * Sponsor: Leon A. Sanger­ Coughlin, Israel-Seattle, WA Laurence, David-Land 0' Lakes, Brunswick, GA Kurdy, James A.-Lake Forest FL Park, WA* Randall, Bruce-Orlando, FL New Jersey Taylor, Michael N.-Tallevast, FL * Masry, Monika-Mount Tabor, NJ Wisconsin Wojciechowski, Timothy- Myers, Patrick-Lake Geneva, Lakeland, FL New York WI* Lane, Jessica-New York, NY Georgia Palladino, Raymond-Syracuse, Schreiner, Pete-Atlanta, GA NY * AWCI welcomes back these Setser, Kenneth-Brunswick, individuals who have chosen GA* Ohio to re-instate their member­ Ringgenberg, Robert A.-West ship. Indiana Chester, OH 0 Root, Donald C.-Bloomington, IN Oklahoma Duncan, Jenny-Okmulgee, OK Kentucky Lowell, Judah-Lexington, KY*

July 2005 · Horological Times 31 Certification Central

Test Validity and Testing Schedule

Vincent E. Schrader Ph.D., CMW Chief Examiner Unfortunately, most of us have taken probably still remember the Battle of courses of study, any time from grade school Gettysburg, but not much about American on, in which we have been taught one thing History. but have been tested on something else for a final grade. The best example I can per­ When the content of an examination doesn't sonally give of this is a high school teacher I line up with a teacher's instruction, nor with had who talked about his favorite subject, what it's ostensibly supposed to measure, the American Civil War, nearly every day. we say it lacks content validity. Content But when he gave his final examination, the validity is one of the most important char­ examination contained questions about the acteristics of an assessment. For watchmak­ entire gamut of events in American History ers taking an examination to become certi­ (which, incidentally, was also the name of fied for today's world of timepiece repair the course and its accompanying textbook.) and care, we have to be especially attentive to content. The new 21" Century Certified When the teacher was asked to describe his Watchmaker's exam is built around what a final examination's content, he said "It's all modern watchmaker, who services today's in the book, and I told you at the beginning timepieces, as they are sold in today's mar­ of the course to read the whole book." And kets, must know and be able to do. that was the end of the story. To make mat­ ters worse, he didn't even write his own test. This means that WHO determines the con­ He used the "study" questions from the end tent is very important. Asking someone of each chapter in the textbook as "his" test. whose training does not include experience or knowledge of modern timepieces to de­ This example demonstrates one of the great­ sign such an examination will lead invariably est difficulties faced by individuals who must to an invalid final product. prepare examinations. I'm sure that if half of this teacher's final examination had cov­ For this reason, AWCI and the Education ered the Battle of Gettysburg, I'd have done Committee continually consult with indi­ very well. (I had great notes!) As it was, viduals with very strong modern content however, I found myself reading feverishly backgrounds. That doesn't mean they need three days before the examination, plowing to be good at making tests. Or that they through the textbook. should be young or old, male or female. It does mean they need to know what mate­ I'm not going to go into the scoring of these rial should be ON the test, and how it exams, since that's a whole different set of should be finally demonstrated. From this concepts in testing. (Needless to say, the point, it's up to a test designer to come up teacher graded "on the curve"-something with a methodology for eliciting this infor­ else he didn't understand-so no matter mation, fairly, consistently, and accurately how well or badly we did, he still produced from someone who wishes to demonstrate a "normal" looking set of grades to the ad­ his/her ability to service modern timepieces. ministration.) Those of us who could read and write survived and went on our way. The test designer uses this content to build Those who couldn't, well, let's just say they upon further validity concepts, such as face

32 Horological Times · July 2005 validity, statistical validity, construct validity, and predic­ Of course, we know that tech sheets aren't always avail­ tive (concurrent) validity. An example: the new CW ex­ able, or accessible, from a manufacturer. (At A WCI, amination assumes that a modern watchmaker under­ we are working hard to open up the lines of communi­ stands the need for various lubricants in the service of cations between our certified members and industry, a modern "high-beat" automatic wind watch. and we've been having some good success.)

In "real life" suppose the watchmaker encounters a to­ As for our examination however, we address this "con­ tally new caliber/design. What does he/ she do? One tent validity" issue by including questions which re­ approach would be to use what he's always used in quire a testing candidate to read a modern tech sheet other, similar situations, if there are such. Another and answer several questions derived from it. This is would be to call or e-mail a fellow watchmaker. A third very straightforward and "real-world." Of course I can way would be to consult the manufacturer, or to work hear the exclamations now, "But the tech sheets are from a technical specification sheet (a fourth way). sometimes wrong!" This is true. But we can compen­ sate for this in the testing environment. You may say, The first approach is fundamentally a guess (and al­ "But I know a better, faster, easier way! though it may be a knowledgeable one, it's still a guess). The second approach is what a lawyer would call "hear­ You may well be correct. But for the purposes of our say." It may or may not be accurate. The third approach examination, the "official" way is the one which "lev­ may be the most preferable, if it is possible to contact els the playing field," and ensures that everyone who the manufacturer. This would be a "straight from the sits for the exam gets exactly the same opportunity. As horse's mouth" solution. Barring this possibility, an old instructor of mine used to say, "First you learn however, using a technical specification sheet, if one is to do it exactly the right way. Then, over time, you available is the best course of action. We assume if the learn when you can break the rules." manufacturer specifies a given lubricant, they indeed know what they are talking/writing about ...... • ...... • • • • SNAP BACK CASE OPENER • • • Stock # 3C-118 • • ~& • • • ~~ • • • • ~'b • ' ~<-'Q- • • • • • ~ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • .• ...... www.newallmfg.com...... • July 2005 Horological Times 33 This example also demonstrates "face validity." If we start making some pretty good judgments about your ask a candidate to perform a task using a tech sheet for performance. And if we make you repeat the task 100 a timepiece which has been out of production for 50 times and you have 95% hit rate, we may decide you've years, we're likely to get laughed at (if the sheet even mastered the skill tested. (And this may be a reason­ existed). Of course, for an "archival repair" this may able place to "set the bar" for someone taking such a be an appropriate kind of performance. But not for the high risk performance test, but my guess is there are 21" Century CW. This also is where the term "con­ expert arguments about this-some may want 99.9%.) struct" validity may be applied. If "archival" repair is Of course we've complicated this performance required the goal of our assessment, we've changed constructs. by adding timing to the pulling of the rip cord, and Certainly, there is a huge difference between modern aerial marksmanship to the landing. And I know I sure timepiece maintenance and restoration and archival don't want to fly an airline which botches 1 out of work. every 1000 landings!

This only leaves two other validity concepts to discuss. The final form of validity is predictive, sometimes called The first is statistical. Statistical validity is fairly "concurrent." This refers to whether or not an assess­ straightforward. If a question (or a performance task) ment candidate, given the very same test, several weeks is such that only one person in 10,000 can possibly be later, will score in a similar range as his/her first per­ successful with it, it's probably useless (unless we round formance. (Provided there is no significant "memory" up 100 geniuses to test). We can statistically track how effect.) It also refers to the likelihood that an individual each performance task and test question behaves from will perform "in real life" in ways which parallel the a statistical standpoint over time and actually predict test performance. This is where the rubber really meets how an individual from a normal population of test­ the road for industry. takers should perform on this task. A good test statis­ tically "centers" on the behaviors we wish to measure. At this point in time, our assessment appears to have In other words, it discriminates properly among the the potential to meet all of the validity requirements of testing population by telling you whether someone has a good examination. Of course, whether or not our minimum skills or not (achieved "mastery"). If you successful candidates move into an industry or other jump out of a plane in parachute testing, and forget to professional setting and succeed is something we will pull the rip cord, there will be no doubt as to "mini­ watch for very carefully. mum" mastery at the end of the examination. If the goal however is to get you to pull the cord at exactly By the way, did I hear someone say they had the same 1200 feet and land in a target 10 yard circle, we can American History teacher? 0

AWCI Certified Watchmaker Exams & CMW Upgrade Exams

DATE LOCATION Aug 8-11 St. Paul Technical College, St. Paul, MN (Immediately following AWCI Annual Meeting) Aug 29 - Sept 1 Lititz Watch Technicum, Lititz, PA Sept 19-22 AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH Oct 17-20 Oklahoma State University-Okmulgee, Okmulgee, OK

For more information contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator Toll Free 866-367-2924, ext. 303 (local Calls 513-367-9800) E-mail: [email protected]

34 Horological Times · July 2005 ~m-~~Jit)iij Hong Kong Trade Development Council American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute

Gain a head start to the burgeoning China market at the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair- September 7-11,2005 In co-operation with the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council is pleased to invite you to take part in our upcoming Buyers Mission program to the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair September 7-11, 2005.

The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2005 is the largest fair of its kind in Asia. Over 16,000 visitors from 102 countries came to see the best of what the 768 exhibitors from 17 countries and regions had to offer last year.

The Buyers' Mission Program includes: • Complimentary Hotel Accommodation worth up to US$230.00 from September 6-11, 2005 at selected hotels for first-time show attendees. • Free access to the Dragon Lounge (complimentary wireless internet service, relaxing area and meeting facilities available.) • Free admission badge, complimentary fair catalogue and fair information kit • Admission to the Asian Watch Industry Conference • Invitations to attend the official functions and other VIP hospitality events. • Discount coupons for shopping & dining in Hong Kong Kindly return the Reply Slip to us no later than Monday, August 8, 2005.

For further information, please feel free to contact Ms Bridget Lee at (312) 7264515; fax: (312) 726 2441; e-mail: [email protected].

For more information, please visit: www.hkwatchfair.com r------1 REPLY SLIP

U.S. Buyers, Mission to the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair September 7-11, 2005

D Yes, I will attend the Fair as a member of the Buyer's Mission Program

D Yes, I will attend the Fair with the Hotel Sponsorship Offer worth US$230. My Registration Form is enclosed.

D Please send information on other hotel & travel packages N ame: ------Job Title: ------C ompany Name: ______Address: ------Phone: ------Fax: ------E-mail: ------Signature: ------Date: ------

L ------~ July 2005 · Horological Times 35 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited "hair smaller" there are acceptable methods Do you have a solution to a watch or clock to accomplish the task. Henry B. Fried's repair problem that you want to share with "Watch Repairers Manual" has a section, il­ our membership? Do you have a question lustrated with several drawings, explaining about a repair problem you would like to how to close the holes in hands. Fried rec­ ask? I invite you to participate in this col­ ommends closing hour wheel sockets with a umn with your suggestions, questions, and tapered mouth punch from a staking tool as comments. It's easy. Just e-mail me at shown in Figure 2. The hole in a minute hand AWCI or write can be closed by lightly tapping the hole with using the old standby known as the postal a round-faced staking tool punch as shown service. You can even fax me at 513-367- in Figure 1. 1414. Bergeon of Switzerland has an inexpensive I will do my best to help you help the mem­ (Ref. 31 000) four-piece set of hand closing bership. By sharing your questions and sug­ tools that fit the Seitz jewelling tool (Figure gestions all of our members can benefit 3). Using these tools, the sockets of hour from our combined knowledge and experi­ hands can be made a "hair" smaller. The mi­ ence. The ideas, tools, techniques and prod­ crometer adjustment feature of the Seitz tool ucts presented in this column are suggested allows the closing to be closely controlled by the author and contributing members so that the hand socket can be closed a "hair" and are not endorsed by any manufacturer, or "fraction of a hair" without resorting to supplier, advertiser or A WCI itself. the use of the actual natural material.

Just a Hair Smaller Recently, a member of a horology-related Internet "chat room" asked how to tighten the socket of a watch's hour hand so that it would fit more snugly upon the hour wheel pipe. One contributor suggested that he lit­ erally make the socket hole a hair smaller by inserting a hair between the hour wheel and the hand socket. While this method may bring a chuckle to some watchmakers, it does exemplify the old tale that one could always recognize an experienced watch­ maker by his lack of hair, but it's not ale­ gitimate method of tightening the hand. Figure 1. Reducing Figure 2. Contracting the hole size in a the hole in a thin-sock­ When a hand socket needs to be made a minute hand. eted minute hand.

36 Horological Times · July 2005 Figure 3. Tools for reducing hour hand holes. No. 31000, page No. 5004. These make it possible to reduce hand holes very accurately, to within 0.005 mm. It is essential to use the Figure 4. micrometer screw for A method of this work. closing the hole in a seconds-hand tube.

Current production quality watches are fit with hands The use of proper techniques to adjust and fit watch that require much more care in handling and fitting hands will keep the hands looking like new and keep than those that were used in the not-too-distant past. the watchmaker from losing any more hair than is ge­ These hands may be made from highly polished solid netically necessary. gold, or have painted or highly finished surfaces which Jack Kurdzionak can be marred easily if they are carelessly adjusted to fit the watch. Use a clear plastic sheet (4 mil. or a bit More Band Aids thicker) to support and protect the finished surface of Many new model watches are fitted with link brace­ the hand, while closing the socket or hole. If the fin­ lets. These bracelets can be all stainless steel, stainless ished surface of the hand is placed, unprotected, on a and karat gold, solid karat gold, titanium or even bench block while the hole is being closed, the imper­ ceramic. fect surface of the block will leave an impression (not a good one) on the finish and will spoil the hand. Regardless of the material, the links are usually joined with stainless steel pins and tubes. The pins are pushed Loose tubes for second hands are still best tightened through one or two tightly fitting tubes, holding the the way they have been for many years. Fried explained pins securely in place by friction. This system is used that a tube could be adjusted smaller by tightening it in on bracelets whose replacement costs vary from a few the chuck of a pin vise or watchmaker's lathe as shown dollars to thousands of dollars. Regardless of their cost, in Figure 4. The chuck closes the tube evenly by press­ the pins and tubes in all of these bracelets wear out. ing in upon it from all sides when the chuck is closed The watch and bracelet comes to the repair shop with slightly. The tube should never be squeezed in the jaws the complaint that a pin has been lost or a pin keeps of a vice or pliers. This method flattens the tube and falling out of the bracelet. The accompanying photo makes it oval rather than round. A tube squeezed into shows a bracelet section that is already missing a tube, an oval will never fit onto a round shaft or perform satisfactorily.

Once adjusted to size, the hands have to be carefully fit onto the watch. Do not touch the finished surface of the hands with tweezers. Movements must be mounted on an appropriate stand fitted with an adjust­ able center screw while the hands are pressed home to prevent damage to the central arbors of the watch. This is especially true for the ETA caliber 2892. The train Whyrepairwhen you can replace? bridge and wheels can easily be damaged if the hands THE LARGEST MOVEMENT SUPPLY IN THE WORLD are fit without proper support. Hand setting tools with plastic tips, available from material distributors, must FREE PRICE LIST: be used to push the hands onto the hour wheel, and Call toll free: 1-800-258-5418 5300 59th Ave. W • Muscatine, lA 52761 cannon pinion. A clear plastic sheet placed over the E-mail: bci@muscanetcom • Web:VVVIMI.butterworthclocks.com hands while they are being fit will provide additional SAME DAY SHIPPING • TWO-YEAR WARRANTY protection for their delicate surfaces. Mark Butterworth

July 2005 · Horological Times 37 lost while the customer wore the watch. In most cases this is the symptom of a much larger problem.

After this bracelet is washed and steam cleaned, many if not all of the links will literally fall apart. All of the pins and tubes will be worn to some degree. Push on each pin in the bracelet to test the security of every link. Every worn pin and tube should be replaced with a new one. If the entire bracelet can be replaced for a few dollars, it may be the most cost effective solution. When the cost of a replacement bracelet gets into a higher dollar range, a quality bracelet repair is in order.

Genuine replacement parts, obtained from the watch Bracelet with worn pins and tubes. manufacturer, will fit perfectly and make for an effec­ tive, long lasting repair. When genuine parts are not an option, generic pin and tube sets from your material can be adapted for other brands as well. Newall also supplier will enable the watchmaker to repair the brace­ supplies a generic set of pins and tubes that can be used let, but they will often require more time to be fit prop­ to repair almost any bracelet that uses pins and tubes. erly to the bracelet. Please note that Newall does not sell directly to watch­ makers. Their products must be purchased through Newall Manufacturing makes available four different your material dealer. sets of genuine Omega pins, tubes, and screws for watch Jack Kurdzionak bracelets. Not only will these fit Omega bracelets, they 0

I ---

Payment processing tailored to your needs, a partnership with AWCI, and reduced rates just for members. And you thought your timepieces were reliable.

First National Merchant Solutions can provide your business with an affordable way to accept credit and debit payments, convert checks to instant cash, and receive payments over the internet. Just some of the ways we can help you grow your business ... find out more today. (i) First National 800-354-3988 www.membersales.comjawci-net Merchant Solutions

38 Horological Times · July 2005

...... tJ ...... - --·,-- - - Levin's Pivot Polisher Levin's Pivot Polisher BULLETIN & Straightener & Straightener George Davis, Richland, W A, is George Davis, Richland, W A, is BOARD looking for a copy of the parts list looking for a copy of the parts list and user manual for Levin's pivot and user manual for Levin's pivot polisher & straightener Cat.# PSOO. polisher & straightener Cat.# PSOO. NEW REQUESTS Rockford 18 Size Ratchet Wheel Gilbert Mantel Clock Movement Gary Lauderbeck, Anderson, IN, is Tim Bale, Ironwood, MI, is looking Do you have information regarding this looking for a ratchet wheel for a for a Gilbert Mantel Clock move­ month's requests? Do you need infor­ mation about one of this month's re­ Rockford 18 size, key wind, 32-tooth ment with the hammer coming out sponses? If so, send your information pocket watch. The part number is of the top; 51 mm between arbors and or requests to: 411. center shaft; 81mm between wind­ ing arbors. Horological Times Bulletin Board ITEMS STILL NEEDED 701 Enterprise Drive Pocket Watch Crowns Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Cantho- The Clock Watcher Robert Mohr, Manhattan, KS, is Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Phone: (513) 367-9800 Don Lindsay, Alexandria, LA, is looking for a source for pocket watch Fax; (513) 367-1414 looking for someone who can repair crowns for 18 size pocket watches E-mail: [email protected] a Cantho- The Clock Watcher. He (9.75mm opening, lO.SOmm diam­ 0 needs the display replaced/repaired. eter), any tap or color.

'...l $22.50 ·-One Ye.,cribers add $10 per per year for the Foreign subscriber.< Cldd $10 /Jer 10 times per year and ywr. ( l.i. S. Funds drawn from lJ. S. connoisse\II of year. (U.S. Fcmd.1 dmwn from U.S. bank only) bank only) is the industry's most· I] Check "' rncH1t:y tlrder .:nclused luxury timepieces. U Check nr money order encl,Jsed used publication-the Cl ChargL: my Vi~a or Ma>rerCard Each issue presents U Charge my Vis~

Attend the 45rh Annual Meeting of the American Watchmak­ ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), August 4-7,2005, Minne­ apolis/St. Paul, Minnesota. Stay at the Sheraton South Bloomington, which is ten minutes from the Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport. The Mall of America is seven min­ utes away. Free shuttles are provided to both locations by the Sheraton.

Entertainment abounds. The Mall of America with its four lev­ els of shopping also includes an amusement park, aquarium, theaters, and much more. Bass fishing on Lake Minnetonka is also an option. The Minnesota Twins are in town and play Oak­ land on August 4 at 12:10 PM; Boston on August 5 at 7:10PM, August 6 at 6:10 PM and August 7 at 1:10 PM. The light rail train goes from the Mall of America to the Twins Dome for $3 round trip.

Join the ELM Trust on Friday, August 6 and board the Anson Northrup at Padelford Landing, Harriet Island, for a St. Paul tour up the Mississippi River. The Sidewheeler paddle boat passes the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, with a river view of Fort Snelling. See the site of Pig's Eye Farrant's cave where the city of St. Paul began.

The Minnesota Watch and Clockmakers Association will hold its annual auction of 300 or more lots on Saturday night fol­ lowing the A WCI awards banquet. Primarily this is a tool auc­ tion with a few clocks and watches thrown in.

Sheraton South Bloomington (formerly the Radisson), 7800 Normandale Boulevard, Minneapolis, MN 55439-3145, $95/ night for a traditional King or Double sleeping room. Call for reservations at 952-835-7800 before July 15, 2005. The hotel has 565 spacious guest rooms with the same comfortable beds you remember from last year's convention. It also has an over­ sized swimming pool, jet spa, sauna, exercise room and game room. Cabana rooms with private balconies or patios are avail­ able as well as the exclusive Plaza Club level if you would like to upgrade your room. Restaurants include Kaffe Stuga, Plaza Java, and Navigator's Lounge.

40 Horological Times · July 2005 AWCI 45th Annual Meeting Agenda Thursday, August 4, 2005 8:00- 9:30AM Tamara Houk Computerizing Your Shop 9:00AM-4:00PM Chronometer Club Mike Gainey - Servicing the at St. Paul College Aging Modern Floor Clock in Chronograph Course by the Home Tamara Houk Manuel Yazijian - 21st Century 10:00 AM Research & Education Council Watchmaker Behavior & Doug Thompson, Director, Practices St. Paul College 9:45-11:15AM Dan Fenwick - Swatch Group 5:00- 6:00PM Chronometer Club Innovation (Tactile Business Meeting, Sheraton Technology) 3:00- 6:00 PM Registration - Plaza Foyer, Jerry Faier - Improving Your Sheraton Diagnostic Techniques 6:00PM Welcome Reception Bob Ockenden - Business Management, Planning & 7:00- 10:00 PM Affiliate Chapter Reception Marketing and Roundtable Discussion Dr. Vincent Schrader 10:00 AM-3:00PM Trade Fair AWCI Certification 11 : 30 AM - 1 : 30 PM Vendors Luncheon Buffet Friday, August 5, 2005 1:30- 3:00PM Tamara Houk- Computerizing 7:30- 10:00 AM Continental Breakfast Your Shop

7:30- 9:00AM Registration Mike Gainey - Servicing the Aging Modern Floor Clock in 8:00 AM - Noon Affiliate Chapter Meeting the Home Keynote Speaker Dan Fenwick, ETA Products Manuel Yazijian - 21st Century Watchmaker Behavior & 9:00- 10:00 AM J.M. Dodson Perpetuation Practices Fund Meeting 3:15-4:45 PM Dan Fenwick - Swatch Group 10:00 AM- Noon Industry Advisory Board Innovation (Tactile Meeting Technology)

1 :00- 5:00 PM AWCI Board of Directors Jerry Faier - Improving Your Meeting Diagnostic Techniques

5:30PM ELM Trust Dinner/Fundraiser Bob Ockenden - Business Bus leaves for the Padelford Management, Planning & Packet Board Co., Harriett Marketing Island, St. Paul - Dinner cruise on the Anson Northrup 6:00PM President's Reception Riverboat (casual, comfortable (semi-formal attire) attire) 7:00- 9:00PM Dinner & Awards Program Saturday, August 6, 2005 9:00 PM - Midnight MWCA Auction 7:30- 10:00 AM Continental Breakfast Sunday, August 7, 2005 7:30- 9:00AM Registration 7:30-9:00 AM Breakfast Buffet 9:00AM - Noon AWCI Board of Directors Meeting Hospitality Room - Open to all - Evenings throughout the event

July 2005 · Horological Times 41 r------1 I I l AWCI's 45th Annual Meeting - August 4-7, 2005 l I Registration Deadline: July 15, 2005 I I Registration also available on line: www.awci.com : (Please type or print all information requested) 1 Name:______AWCI Member No.: ______I Company/Affiliate Chapter:______I City:______State/Province ______Zip/Postal Code ____ _ I

Phone: ______F~ : ______I 1 E-mail: ______Spouse's Name; ______Guest's Name: ______Child #1: ______Age: _____ Child #2: Age: ____ _ Child #3: Age: _____

Registration Fees Received by July 1, 2005 After July 1, 2005 Weekend Package* AWCI Member __ @$250.00 __ @$300.00 Nonmember __ @$300.00 __ @$350.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$150 .00 __ @$200.00 Children (under 12) __ @$ 50.00 __ @$100.00 Saturday Package** AWCI Member __ @$200.00 __ @$250.00 Nonmember __ @$250.00 __ @$300.00 Spouse/Guest __ @$ 75.00 __ @$100.00 Education Package*** AWCI Member __ @$150 .00 __ @$200.00 Nonmember __ @$200.00 __ @$250.00

Friday Night ELM Trust __ @$ 60.00 per person Boat Ride & Dinner (Not included in weekend package) Total _____ Should we be aware of any personal health issues you have? ______

Do you prefer vegetarian meals? ------

*Weekend Package Includes: Thursday: Round Table Reception; Friday: Continental Breakfast, Affiliate Chapter and Board Meetings; Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon , Dinner/Awards Program, and Auction; Sunday: Breakfast Buffet ..Saturday Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations, Luncheon and Dinner/Awards Program, and Auction ***Education Package Includes: Saturday: Continental Breakfast, Technical Presentations & Luncheon Note: Program changes will be announced as they occur.

0 Check 0 American Express 0 Discover 0 MasterCard 0 Visa NameonCaro ______Account# ______Expiration Date _____Signature ______

Please make checks payable to AWCI. All fees must be paid in advance; credit cards will be processed upon receipt. Payment in U.S. Funds, drawn on a U.S. Financial Institution. No refunds for cancellations after July 15, 2005 1 AWCI 's 45 h Annual Meeting 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 301 Fax: 513-367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] L------~ 42 Horological Times · July 2005 AWCI's 45TH ANNUAL MEETING AUGUST 4-7, 2005 VENDOR REGISTRATION DOOR PRIZE - ELM TRUST DONATION

The American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute would like to invite your participation in the AWCI 45th Annual Meeting & Convention at the Sheraton South Bloomington Hotel in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Exhibitors may reserve a table for $225 for Saturday, August 6, 2005 from 10 AM to 3:00 PM This will also entitle two people to have lunch and dinner with the convention attendees. Deadline for vendor registration is July 1st, 2005.

CompanyName~------Address ______City ______State ______Zip ______Phone Fax. ______

E-Mail ______

0 Please reserve a table for us to exhibit during the AWCI 45th Annual Meeting.

The following people will be attending:

Name ------Title ------Name ------Title ------

Name ------Title ------0 A door prize will be sent to AWCI for the drawings held during the Trade Fair and at the close of the convention. This entitles our company to be listed as a convention sponsor.

The generous financial support of persons interested in preserving the past and building the future of horology aug­ ments the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust. Your donation will contribute to the education of the next generation of watch­ makers and clockmakers or to maintaining the historical record of the craft. Please accept this donation of $ ______to the AWCI-ELM Charitable Trust

Payment Method:

0 Check 0 American Express 0 Discover 0 MasterCard 0 Visa Total ___ _ Name on Card ______

Account# ______Expiration Date ___ Signature------AWCI 2005 Meeting Sponsors

AWCI would like to acknowledge the following sponsors for the 2005 AWCI Annual Meeting and ELM Trust Fundraiser Dinner Sponsors: Rolex USA Merritt's Antiques Swatch Group Price-Less Ads Butterworth Clocks, Inc. Blankinship-Porter Co., Inc.

July 2005 · Horological Times 43 AWCI 2005 Meeting Technical Presentations

Jerry Faier, Dan Fenwick Mike Gainey, CMC cc

Improving Swatch Group Servicing the Your Innovation Aging Modern (Tactile Diagnostic Floor Clock in Technology) the Home Techniques Introduction to Mr. Gainey will Looking at a va­ application of discuss common riety of move- touch sensitive problems that ment styles, I crystals for activation of watch features. tend to develop will look at ways of determining prob­ over time on common movements made lems with the intact movement and of­ by Hermie, Keininger, U rgos and Jauch fer routines to help improve your skills and share ideas for trouble-shooting vari­ in finding and correcting these faults. We ous clock failures. If time allows he will will look at: 1.) general considerations also share his tips concerning the to use when first observing a movement; Herschede tubular bell clock and antique 2.) some considerations when the move­ bell-strikers. Other topics may include ment is on the bench before it's field general tips for making efficient use of tested; 3.) faults that cause the clock not your time while in the home, tool box run or run poorly; 4.) strike incorrectly contents and avoiding unnecessary call (both count wheel and rack and snail) backs. or not at all; and 5.) chime incorrectly or not at all. We will work together and try to develop the "logical" approach ~o determining clock failures and there will be plenty of time for specific Q & A.

Tamara Houk Bob Ockenden, Manuel CMC Y azijian, CMW Computerizing Your Shop Business 21" Century Management, Watchmaker Planning & Behavior & With a rapidly Marketing Practices growing busi­ ness, Tamara was Mr. Ockenden forced to begin You can be the will discuss the best watchmaker thinking several importance of in the world but years ago of developing a if you do not computerizing the tracking of repairs solid business plan. He will address the know how to act and present yourself through the shop. After a few false st~rts steps necessary to determine pricing for to the public as a professional then you with computer programmers who JUSt labor, parts, and services which will fall are missing one of the key elements of couldn't fathom how complex a watch into the general economic structure of this profession. Proper appearance and repair business could be, Tamara and her the area. You will receive pointers on professional conduct are as essential as fourth programmer developed wh~t is analyzing your profits to provide for a knowing how to make a balance staff or known as "Job Track," a program tailor­ fair income, medical insurance, a retire­ service a chronograph watch. All of the made for a busy watch repair shop. ment plan, etc. There will also be discus­ key points must be had to ensure overall Tamara will demonstrate how "Job sion on ways to educate the consumer success in the equation of the watchmak­ Track" can give us what we all want­ so they will recognize the importance of ing profession. more time to work on watches. your skills and services.

44 Horological Times · July 2005 AWCI Bench Course Adjusting Mechanical Chronographs

St. Paul, Minnesota will be the site for the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute's August bench course in Adjusting Mechanical Chronographs. Bernhard Stoeber, Vice President of Technical Operations at Rolex Watch USA, will be the instructor. An overview of the course follows:

Date: August 1-3, 2005

Time: 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM

Location: St. Paul Technical College 235 Marshall Avenue St. Paul, MN 565102-1807

Course Fee: $375.00

Course Overview: The course will cover the function and adjustment of mechanical chronographs and is intended for the experienced watchmaker. Below is the agenda (course starts at 8:30AM on Monday and ends at 5:00PM on Wednesday).

For further information on the course, or to register, contact Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator at [email protected] or toll free (866) 367-2924, ext. 303.

Monday, August 1, 2005

AM: PM: • Definitions and History • Automatic Cam Chronograph- (Valjoux 7750- • Types of Instruments and Mechanisms Practical Exercise) • Operating a Chronograph • Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph - • Taking Readings (Zenith 400- Demonstration) • Transmission of Power • Groups of Chronograph Parts Wednesday, August 3, 2005 • Basic Operation of a Chronograph • Column Wheel Chronograph - (Lemania 2310 - AM: Demonstration) • Automatic Modular Chronograph - (Dubois Depraz 2000 - Practical Exercise) PM: • Column Wheel Chronograph- (Valjoux 170- PM: Practical Exercise) • Automatic Chronograph (Vertical Clutch) - (Piguet 1180 - Demonstration) • Automatic Modular Chronograph - (ETA 2894 Tuesday, August 2, 2005 - Demonstration)

AM: • Written and practical test • Cam Chronographs - (Valjoux 7733 - Practical Exercise) • Cam Chronographs- (Lemania 1873- Demonstration)

July 2005 · Horological Times 45 COMMITTEE VOLUNTEERS

Immediately following the AWCI Board of Directors annual meeting, the President of AWCI will appoint committee members for fiscal year 2005-2006. AWCI relies heavily on its committees to establish and implement goals for the year. If you have time and talent to spare, consider volunteering to serve.

The committees listed below are those which are currently established in either the AWCI Constitution or Bylaws. Please indicate the committee(s) for which you are qualified. Please number them in the order of preference.

- Constitution & Bylaws Committee - Technology Committee - Price Survey Advisory Committee

- Finance Committee - Membership Committee - Internet Training Committee

- Nominating Committee for - Publicity Committee - Video Review Committee AWCI Board of Directors - Honor Awards Committee - Watch Product Review Committee - Education Committee - Strategic Action Committee - Horologica/ Times Committee - Ethics Committee - Book Review Committee

Name ______AWCI Membership No. ______

Spouse's Name ______

Address ______

City ______State ______Zip Code ______

Phone (home) ------(business) Fax ______E-mail ______

Please give a brief explanation of your qualifications to serve on the committee(s) selected

Return this form to AWCI, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 E-mail: [email protected] or fax to (513) 367-1414

46 Horological Times · July 2005 WATCHMAKERS/CLOCKMAKERS ASSOCIATION OF OHIO 59th ANNUAL MEETING AND CONVENTION

JULY 15th & 16th, 2005

Carlisle Inn of Sugarcreek 1357 Old Route #39 NW, Sugarcreek, OH 44681 call 330-852-2586 for reservations

FRIDAY Hands-on Bench Course - "Adjusting & Repairing the Lever Escapement" with Jim Lubic, CMW Dinner Annual Meeting Of Membership Videos & Show And Tell

SATURDAY "Professionalism In Watchmaking" - By Manuel Yazijian, CMW ''Tips, Tricks And Trouble Shooting Techniques for Servicing the Aging Floor Clock in the Home" with Mike Gainey, CC Quarterly Board Meeting

OUR DISPLAYERS will be on hand throughout the morning and early afternoon for you to visit their tables and look over their wares.

SATURDAY EVENING Banquet Door Prizes Entertainment

For information and registration contact Mark A. Baker, P.O. Box 292, Damascus, OH 44619 (330) 537-3939 or e-mail to [email protected]

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL AFFILIATE CHAPTER

For information on forming a new chapter, call 1-866-367-2924, ext. 304

July 2005 · Horological Times 47 Industry News

N. G. Hayek Watchmaking School als in this state-of-the-art service Livia Marotta Promoted to Welcomes Its First Class in facility. They will be exposed to all Director of PR and Corporate September 2005 areas of Swiss watch manufacture, Communications The Swatch Group U.S. recently an­ repair and customer service. LVMH W&J, the watch and jewelry nounced the debut of the N. G. division of the world's leading luxury Hayek Watchmaking School, located The N.G. Hayek Watchmaking products group, LVMH Moet in Secaucus, NJ. The new school will School is located at 55 Metro Way, Hennessy Louis Vuitton, announced welcome its first class of six pupils Secaucus, NJ. Phone: 201-271-1400; the promotion of Livia Marotta to in September 2005. Fax: 201-271-4796; E-mail: Director of Public Relations and [email protected] Corporate Communications for Like other Swiss watch companies, LVMH W&J USA and TAG Heuer Swatch Group U.S. has seen the North America, effective immedi­ decline in qualified watchmakers Cas-Ker Acquires ately. Most recently, Marotta served and micro-mechanical talent in this OneStep Watch Lubricant as TAG Heuer's Manager of Public country. With the Federation The Cas-Ker Company, Cincinnati, Relations for the United States and Horologiere reporting year-over­ OH, has purchased the exclusive Canada. year increases in Swiss watch exports rights for the manufacture and sale to the U.S., the industry must act of OneStep Watch Lubricant. In her expanded role, Marotta heads now to maintain their shared quality up public relations and corporate standards. And as the world's larg­ OneStep is designed to be mixed communications in relationship to est watch company, Swatch Group with the final the strategic direction of the TAG U.S. takes part in the responsibility rinse of an ul­ Heuer brand. She will continue to to ensure that the profession contin­ trasonic watch oversee media relations and grow ues and grows in the U.S. cleaning ma­ consumer awareness through ex­ chine. This panded editorial coverage of the It is with this mission that they join proven prod­ brand. Marotta reports to Daniel the other WOSTEP-Certified uct has been Lalonde, President and CEO, watchmaking schools to nurture tal­ used by many LVMH Watch & Jewelry NA. ent and interest and to ensure the watchmakers continuity of service for all Swiss for decades. "During the past two years, Livia has watches sold in the United States. At OneStep im­ been the driving force in elevating TheN. G. Hayek School of Watch­ proves effi­ TAG Heuer's editorial coverage to making, instructor Paul Madden will ciency and the top position among all watch lead six students over the course of saves time by brands in the United States and the 3,000-hour, two-year curriculum providing an Canada, contributing to the growth covering micromechanics, tool mak­ even distribu­ of the brand in these markets," said ing and sharpening, spare parts tion of lubricant throughout the Lalonde. manufacture, mechanical watch, elec­ watch movement, eliminating the tronic watch repair and more. need to oil every pivot. Prior to JOmmg TAG Heuer, Marotta was Managing Director of The N. G. Hayek Watchmaking Cost is $29.95 for an 8 oz. bottle Consumer Marketing with Hill and School is tuition-free and is located which mixes with one gallon of rinse. Knowlton Inc. in New York City, a just outside New York City in For more information call Joel leading international communica­ Secaucus, New Jersey. Students will Deming at 1-800-487-0408. tions consultancy part of WPP gain exposure to veteran profession- Group. Her earlier experience

48 Horological Times · July 2005 includes strategic communications assignments with companies in luxury, consumer goods and technol­ ogy. Marotta holds an M.S. in Mar­ keting Communications from Bos­ ton University, where she was a Blue Chip Award recipient. She resides with her family in New York City.

Scott Schwartz Promoted as Head of Cas-Ker Watch Material Cas-Ker Company President Pat TifT Horology Cassedy recently announced that Graduates: Scott Schwartz, a sixteen-year com­ Dan W. Hanke (left) and pany employee, has been promoted Mark Crake to Manager of the company's watch (right) . .__ _..;;:~...::...._--"'---'----...... - material department. Scott will be responsible for the overall operation of the department and will oversee the fifteen employees who work in watch material. TifT Bench Technician Graduates: Front Scott, 35, is a graduate of Cincinnati row, left to right State Technical and Community Michael Tran, College and is a lifelong Cincinnati Paul B. Nguyen, resident. He is an avid softball player Adam Schumpert. and is single. Back row, left to right- Jacob D. Stringer, Chase Lou Esselman, who Scott replaces, is Brandenburgh, reducing his hours and responsibili­ Rebecca L. Frisch, ties as he nears retirement. Lou, 62, David F. Lack. will continue to work for Cas-Ker, but will spend more time traveling with his wife Marilyn, as well as en­ joying other leisure time activities. Paris Junior College President Dr. revived in the restoration of an heir­ The company would like to take this Pamela Anglin, and David McAnally, loom piece of jewelry." opportunity to thank Lou for his dean of Applied Technologies. many decades of loyal service and Jewelry industry suppliers Stuller and wish him many years of health and Keynote speaker was Peter LeCody, NAMANO/ Southeastern Findings, happiness. president of Jewelry Marketing of represented by Clay Minton, TIJT the Southwest Inc., the regional fran­ Advisory Board member, presented chise holder of Fast-Fix Jewelry Re­ special awards to several students. Texas Institute of Jewelry pairs. LeCody reminded the students Technology Spring Graduation that being a jeweler is a "vibrant and The Stuller Platinum Award winner The Texas Institute of Jewelry Tech­ noble position, never dull, always a is Joseph Clemens Suchy of Rogers, nology (TIJT), a division of Paris challenge with room to grow." AR. Gold and Silver A ward winners Junior College, held spring semester are John Shaver of Paris, and Jeff graduation ceremonies on May 5. He said, "Your reward may not come Sommers of Watauga. in money, awards, or recognition Ulla Raus, TIJT division chairperson, from your peers, but instead you will The NAMANO/Southeastern Find­ welcomed the graduates, their receive the smile of your customers ings awards went to Adam friends and family members, and in­ when their old family watch is Schumpert of Seneca, SC, first place; troduced the TIJT faculty members, brought back to life, or a memory Brian Reed of Greenville, second

July 2005 · Horological Times 49 place; and Jacob Stringer of Alpine, Cas-Ker Introduces The success of the Couture Pavilion third place. New Tool Catalog in its first year atJA New York Win­ The Cas-Ker Company has released ter Show this past January, has made Students receiving certificates of the latest version of its Tools and it a true destination within the larger graduation in the Gemology Supplies Catalog for jewelers and show floor. Even more exciting is the program were: Bridget Laura Byrne, watchmakers. The 400-page catalog union this summer between the Cou­ Kansas City, MO; Jacob L. Gallop, contains thousands of everyday ture Pavilion and IJDG Design Col­ Mineola; Christine Michaele items useful to jewelry and watch lection 2005, which will have a dis­ Grandjean, Tuscon, AZ; Paul Perrin, professionals as well as many items tinctive location on the Galleria - Paris; Lauren Leigh Richard, unique to Cas-Ker. Level IV of the Javits Center. This Opelousas, LA; Laurie Ann Riggs, fantastic merger of these two enti­ Ortonville, MI; and Gove Dee Slate, The catalog is free to qualified pro­ ties will allow the jewelry industry's Paris. fessional jewelers and watchmakers. most prestigious groups of design­ Contact Joel Deming for more in­ ers to co-locate for the first time. The Receiving Bench Technician Certifi­ formation, 1-800-487-0408. Couture Pavilion will truly elevate cation were Chase Brandenburgh, the shopping experience of show at­ Mansfield; Rebecca L. Frisch, tendees and set a new standard in ef­ Oshkosh, WI; David F. Lack, Spring­ JA New York Summer Show ficiency, comfort, and selection. It is field, MO; Paul B. Nguyen, Hous­ The JA New York Summer Show the only location to preview collec­ ton; Adam E. Schumpert, Seneca, returns to the Jacob KJavits Center tively the spectacular collections of SC; Jacob D. Stringer, Alpine; and in New York City from July 31 - these Couture designers outside of Michael Thoai Tran, Houston. August 3, 2005. Over 1,800 exhibi­ the Couture Las Vegas Event. The tors and more than 13,000 buyers and IJDG Design Collection 2005 will Jewelry Technology graduates in­ trade professionals are set to convene amaze and inspire retailers with the clude: Kristin Arnold, Monroe, LA; at the Summer Show where jewelry latest exquisite and completely Matthew DeLeon, San Antonio; collections from around the world original collections from its members Michael Lee Gaebler, Indianapolis, will be on display in a fantastic set­ and is the exclusive venue for show­ IN; Chasity Jo Grogan, Neodesha, ting. The diversity of the show will casing the unique styles and KS; Joshua Whitt Hartman, Fort offer something for everyone from trendsetting designs created by IJDG Worth; Laura E. Imel, Lyons, KS; the most discriminating buyer to members. Soo M. Kim, Carrollton; E. Diane those looking for new products or McMillen, Fort Cobb, OK; William materials. A major highlight of the Other special sections at this year's McMillin, Fort Cobb, OK; Kristina show for all will be the debut of the show will include the Inner Circle A. McNab, Milwaukee, WI; Marga­ Couture Pavilion and International and Collection Showcase, Platinum ret Rose Opela, Stapleton, NE; Jewelry Design Guild (IJDG) Design Pavilion, Place Vendome, Watch Rolando Ortiz, Boerne; Nathan Collections 2005 where the industry's Aficionado's Clock and Watch Pavil­ Thomas Regan, Garden City, KS; most innovative design groups will ion, Antique & Estate Jewelry Pavil­ Kenneth Andrei Seleske, Fort showcase in an elegant space. ion, Diamond Way, Concours Worth; and Joseph Clemens Suchy, d'Elegance, New Product Gallery, Rogers, AR. The Summer Show is expected to at­ Bench Jewelers Marketplace, AGTA tract its hallmark collection of world­ Colored Stone Section, and Gift Gal­ Casting certificates were presented class brands and designs while also lery. With an international group of to Kristin Arnold, Michael Gaebler, providing insight and educational exhibitors and retailers, the Summer Chasity Grogan, Joshua Hartman, opportunities for both retailers and Show also features a fabulous selec­ Kristina MeN ab and Margaret exhibitors as they compete in a dy­ tion of international pavilions from Opela. namic and changing international Hong Kong, Italy, Thailand, Turkey, marketplace. In addition, the JA Japan, Germany, Taiwan, Spain, Is­ Mark D. Crake of Allen, and Dan W. New York Comprehensive Educa­ rael, India, Brazil, the United King­ Hanke of Flower Mound, were tional Program will include seminars dom, Cyprus, Singapore, Poland, awarded certificates in horology. and lectures offered by experts and Pakistan, Belgium, Korea, Mexico, trendsetters covering many aspects Ukraine, Russia and more. Brady Bachelor of San Antonio com­ of the jewelry industry. pleted JA certification.

50 Horological Times · July 2005 The JA New York Summer Show truly offers some­ thing for everyone and has long been the standard des­ tination to conduct business in New Y ark. With an outstanding selection of jewelry and educational op­ CLOCKS portunities, JA New York will continue to shine this • summer against the backdrop of the world's most spar­ magaz1ne kling city. Show Schedule: 2005 JA New York Summer Show CLOCKS_.KS.KS hours are as follows: Sunday, July 31, 9:30AM- 6:00 n e i n e PM, Monday, August 1, 10:00 AM-6:00PM, Tues­ day, August 2, 10:00 AM-6:00PM, and Wednesday, August 3, 10:00 AM-3:00PM.

Those interested in attending can call the registration department (800-650-1591 or 972-349-5953). Those in­ terested in exhibiting can speak with Drew Lawsky ( 646-654-4983). 0 Inside: Sale in Leeds ~ Roberts rn FAQ A massiv movement kmakersAaules GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE COPY OF CLOCKS Tel: 044 131 331 3200 Email: [email protected] AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWCI's resident clock instructor, this course is con­ structed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immedi- ately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student.

The AWCI Home Study Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to successfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2-day meeting at AWCI to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students. AWCI Members - $750 Non-members - $830 Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWCI Education Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800

July 2005 · Horological Times 51 ATMOS by Jaeger-LeCoultre ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Classified Completely overhauled with the We are Factory Authorized Service for: longest labor warranty on the planet! • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Five years on all labor! • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R Advertising Mike's Clock Clinic We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Established in 1982 & devoted recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. exclusively to the Atmos since 1990. Regulations & Rates I also overhaul 400-day clocks. 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Please call 877-286-6762 Used Equipment Bought & Sold Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, http://www.atmos-man.com/atmos.html ~l For Information 11;,·~ $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ ~ (415) 453-9266 ~· play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 214'' wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis­ FENDLEY & COX countable. The publisher may, at the WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST publisher's sole discretion and for any rea­ 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 MORGAN PIVOT POUSBER son and without notice, decline to publish or RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI POLISH PIVOTS IN AS republish any ad, in which case any fees sub­ LITTLEAS 5 -7 SEC. mitted or paid for such ads shall be returned www.fendley-cox.com fi!SSHERIJ~~l,lT HES· or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher re­ 11/AlCHJIAKf!IS b serves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of MORGAN CLOCK CO. services will not be accepted. Confidential ads CLOCK GEARS, BARRELS and PINIONS made 800-80~2220 9-15 CST are $10.00 additional for postage and han­ from your sample, ARBORS re-pivoted, teeth MOR GANPIVOTPOUSHER .COM dling. The first of the month is issue date. replaced in gears or barrels. All work Copy must be received 30 days in advance guaranteed, fair prices fast turn around. (September issue closes for copy on August Call Mike Loebbaka, 86 Mullens Lane, 1S'). ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR Saugerties, NY 12477; Phone: 800-411-4542, ROLEX SERVICE HOROLOGICAL TIMES tictoc@ oldandnew.com Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. 701 Enterprise Drive Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in Harrison, OH 45030 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts Phone (513) 367-9800 FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the repair Fax (513) 367-1414 Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated E-mail: [email protected] the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Marcus, (203) 792-4539. Seattle, WA98101; (206) 623-2452.

VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. TRADESMAN Twenty-eight years experience, guarantee, free estimates. The Escapement, P .0. Box 522, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 POCKET WATCH & MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR General repair and restoration of antique and complicated watches. Custom parts fabrication CLOCK, MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR including staffs, verge staffs, stems, levers, PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS and springs. Located in Massachusetts. CUSTOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; St. Rt. 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645. www.henningwatches.com Catalog $3.00. Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com r------, HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton DIAL 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton electric CLEANING, RESTORATION, REFINISHING watches and parts always wanted. Rene PART MANUFACTURING Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA FOR ALL TYPES OF CLOCKS & WATCHES 94976. Tel: (415) 924-6534. E-mail: We service and restore all types and grades of watches 'J!; rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com and clocks-Jlecoultre's Atmos· Patek Phillipe- Piguet­ Vacheron Constantin- Rolex (certificate # 0168) e".'"" 2: ' omega- Accutron· tuning forks· electric- quartz- fusses· WATCH WHEEL REPIVOTING alarms- minute repeaters· chronographs- chronom­ Parts custom made. Philip Stoller, CW eters-any complications· pendant watches- pocket (602) 293-3165, pstoller@ mailstation.com watches· antique or new· cuckoo clocks- 400- days electronic and quartz· we retrofit modernize watches to quartz or mechanical- repivoting- stem manufactur· BEFORE AFTER WATCH REPAIR ing, ( regular or oversize) free estimates, 30 years in Quartz Conversions Same location since 1994. Reliable, fast service. watch and clocks restoration and parts manufacturing. Diamond Dial Conversions Central State Watch Services, 4820 W. 24th GCA LA PRECISION Emblem & Name Personalization St., Lawrence, KS 66047 (785) 749-4632, Guido C. Alave Member AWl, NAWCC Write for Brochures sevenstarBO@ hotmail.com 3830 Parkland Dr. INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Fairfax, VA 22033 58 W. SUGARTREE CLOCKS Phone 703-352-8793 Cell 703-627-4054 P.O. BOX970 Fax 703-352-8077 Gear cutting, repivoting, rebushing. Watch jew­ WILMINGTON, OH 45177 E-mail: [email protected] eling. Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 30436 N Saint (937) 382-4535 www. watch-watches-repairs.com L------...J Joe Dr., Spirit Lake, ID 83869; (208) 623-4330. 52 Horological Times · July 2005 ARTICLES FOR SALE ALTA ARDEN WATCHBANDS

DOCTOR'S WATCHES- beautiful German de­ Free Watchband Organizer • Free Display Trays sign, Swiss mechanical ETA movement, good price. Contact Mark Butterworth for info at (800) LEATHER WATCHBANDS 258-5418 or [email protected] STARTER KIT 216 pes. of high quality straps for $495.00 DASHTO INC.fTOM MISTER 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 18mm and 20mm PO Box 61894 IN BLACK AND BROWN Virginia Beach, VA 23466 http://www.dashto.com Huge and everchanging selection 1-800-583-1906 Used and new horological items watchbands.net Sold by internet list only TOOLS/EQUIPMENT MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES WATCH MOVEMENTS / eckcell!ii WATCH CASES & DIALS WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES Your battery connection, and more ... MUCH MORE 379 Main Street WE BUY & TRADE ALSO Stoneham, MA 02180 [email protected] http://dashto.org REPAIR KIT FOR THE ETA 976.001 • Contains 50 assorted genuine ETA spare parts for servicing this movement SHERLINE PRODUCTS • Circuit, stems, insulators, all wheels, Free catalogs upon request screws, cells, etc. supplied in a refillable, Limited Supply on Hand partitioned container. Refills available of Accessories at Old Prices Separately, these parts would cost more than $200 Starrett Collets Now Available YOUR COST FOR COMPLETE KIT ... $65! ANTIQUE CLOCKWORKS, LTD. P.O. Box 201, Loretto, MN 55357 (800) 514-1270 www.vibrografusa.com Toll Free 877-643-7698 Terry Kurdzionak, member AWCI E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksltd.com www.AntiqueCiockworksltd.com Regula and H. Herr Cuckoo Movements CLOSEOUTS Complete selection. Also factory stopper new Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF our Mechanical Wristwatches regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth 1-800- 258-5418. Many Complications Quality Swiss & German Manufacturers Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books, Videos & (ETA Movements) leW WIIISbl DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Free ShiDDIIU and IIUJ In SUS Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; 60-80% Off E-mail: [email protected] Send $5 for catalog w/price list M. Kolosinskas If You Repair Clocks . . . Watch Repair Tools & Supplies you need o ur all new Catalog #30. PO Box 10412 Clock Repair Tools & Supplies._ Cranston, Rl 02910 for Amerialn and European clocJcs of aU lyp£51 Horological Repair and Rdema Books Browse through our inventory and order on-line ~4-hours a day! •.. www.merritts.com SITUATIONS WANTED

Our full color, 19:5 page ~004 Catalog of repair Experienced English watchmaker. British Hero­ sUJiplies:, tools and boob logical Institute certified. Has Rolex and Omega is now available.. training, seeks employment in Florida with top CaD or Write for a copy quality company. Reply to BOX SW42005, c/o todiiYI •..$1.00 pMpd. Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harri­ son, OH 45030. .. -...... ,...... _ ...... ,,__··-'''''too- ,__-~--... - ...... --...... -·-·..:••: ...... - _. ______.... -...... _ . Rm'S CHREPAJR Timesavers Apprentice Watchmaker & School of Horology Box 12700 • Scousdale. AZ 85267• USA ARTMENT Graduate seeks position with professional Phone: 48U-483-3711 I F'u:480-483-6116 1860 Wea.vertown Rd, [email protected] I www.timesavers.com watchmaker/jeweler in eastern or central Penn­ Our 164 page Catalog #30 with 1 ,GOO's of DouslaSMlleJ PA 19518 sylvania. Resume and references upon request. products is S3 postpaid. 6104189-9541 FAX: 6104189-0567 (570) 450-0855

July 2005 Horological Times 53 HELP WANTED

If's About Time Movado Group, Inc. designs, manufactures and markets watches from seven of the most recognized and respected names in time: Ebel, Concord, Movado, ESQ, Coach Watches, Tommy Hilfiger Watches and Hugo Boss Watches.

We have exciting opportunities immediately available for all levels of Watchmakers with the ability to service quartz, mechanical and/or complicated high grade movements.

Depending upon your skill level, you will: handle all types of watch repairs; repair movements; remove and replace movements; recondition and refinish cases and bracelets; repair bracelets. You must have a minimum of 2+ years experience for the positions servicing quartz movements. For the more advanced watchmaking positions, you need to have 4+ years experience with high grade mechanical, complicated and multi-function movements. All positions require a willingness to work overtime as needed.

We offer highly attractive compensation and benefits. For immediate consideration, please send resume, with salary history/requirements a MUST, to:

Movado Group, Inc. Attn: Human Resources 105 State Street, Moonachie, NJ 07074 [email protected] • Fax: 201-267-8070

Equal Opportunity Employer M/F/DIV. Only candidates selected for further consideration will be contacted. No phone calls, please.

MOVADO GROUP I N C. Movado Group. Inc. is publicly traded on the NYSE. Visit us at: www.movadogroupinc.com

54 Horological Times · July 2005 r

HELP WANTED ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS!!! • Buying Old Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Now paying up to $20,000 Well established jewellery store in Northern If 'S TIME Ontario, community of 80,000 people is looking Steel Mil gauss- $1 OK - $20K TO SELL for an EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER. This • Any Old Rolex Parts, Dials, Crowns, person must have several years experience and Movements A WATCH be able to service all makes of watches includ­ ing high end models. They must be able to give PRICES HAVE NEVER BEEN HIGHER TOP PRICES PAID! excellent customer service and work in a large DON MEYER repair department environment. Salary nego­ ROLEX • PATEk PHILJPPE tiable. Call (705) 253-9703 ask for RICHARD 12900 Preston Rd. #715 VAC HERO & CO STA NT! Dallas, TX 75230 AUDEMARS PIC UfT ROSSET or fax resume to (705) 945-0536. BREITLI G • CA RTI ER· Call Anytime: 800-833-3159 & OTHERS AGENTS IN MOST MAJOR CITIES CERTIFIED CLOCKMAKER When )'OU're read 10 ell Plano, Texas area. Gl/1 Toll Free Please call {972) 423-2205 1-800-842-8625 AI"'" pmmpt pa ment! We pay up to 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment WANTED TO BUY return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St. , Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ WANTED WATCH BOXES lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073. Buy - Sell - Trade We want most major brands. Also buying high­ end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586- $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ 774-3684 Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling Panerai - Le Coultre $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ Vacheron - AP - Etc. Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling Panerai - Le Coultre ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Vacheron - AP- Etc. Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, watches. We have helped over 130 watch­ Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo makers in the last six years to dispose of Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, their accumulations. When you're really Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone {727) Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: [email protected] WATCH MATERIAL Chronograph movements, cases, dials, parts and watches. Paying: Valjoux 72 - $200.00; DISTRIBUTORS WE BUY WATCHES Venus 178-$150.00; Longines 13ZN- $350.00; Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Please call us if you are interested Valjoux 69 - $350.00; also Rolex 620 NA - Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern in selling your business. $350.00. Dean Samelle, 25 W Beverley St., or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 All replies confidential. Staunton, VA 24401; 1-866-877-8164. Contact Pat Cassedy Horological Times Annual Binders WE BUY ENTIRE Preserve a full year's volume of your Horological Times in this WATCH COLLECTIONS handsome, embossed 12-spine binder. $14.00each Call Toll Free Horo/ogica/ Times 1-800-426-2344 Back Issues 203-366-2500 1977 through the present We also fit glass crystals to Limited quantities and some issues Openface, Hunting, and English SPECIALTY METALS may no longer be available. chain drive watches. REFINING 1-5 $7.00 each Complete watches, dials, COMPANY, INC. 6-12 $6.50 each movements, case springs for sale. 1915 Black Rock Turnpike 13+ $5.75 each Fairfield, CT 06430 AWCI members receive a G F Specialties Members: Ron Fried, 10% discount on back issues 1-800-351-6926 President Better Business Bureau Jewelers Board of Trade To order contact AWCI P.O. Box 170216 "/look forward to 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Milwaukee, WI 53217 giving you honest and 235 Consecutive Ads reliable service." or visit our web site www.awcl.com

July 2005 Horological Times 55 r Advertisers' Index AWCI Employee Directory Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 James E. Lubic, CMW (816) 421-6110 Executive Director Education & Technical Director Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 37 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 (800) 258-5418 [email protected] Lucy Fuleki Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover Assistant Executive Director (513) 674-7700 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 [email protected] Chronos!WCR ...... 39 Thomas J. Pack, CPA (303) 296-1600 Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 Clocks ...... 51 [email protected] 011 01 31 228 6638 Laurie Penman Clock Instructor Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 (651) 452-7180 [email protected]

Ferrell & Company ...... 29 Manuel Yazijian, CMW Watchmaking Instructor/Certification (213) 627-6031 Coordinator 1-866-367-2924 ext. 309 Frei, Otto ...... 9 [email protected] (51 0) 832-0355 Donna K. Baas Managing Editor/Advertising Manager S. LaRose, Inc ...... 25 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 (336) 621-1936 [email protected]

Livesay's, Inc ...... 7 Nancy L. Wellmann (813) 229-2715 Education Coordinator 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 [email protected] Maxell Corp ...... back cover (201) 794-5900 Sharon McManus Membership Coordinator McCaw Co., William S ...... 3 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 [email protected] (419) 243-3720 Mary Huff Newall Manufacturing Company ...... 33 Shipping Coordinator (800) 621-6296 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 [email protected]

Smith Supply House ...... 19 Heather Weaver (213) 622-1687 Receptionist/Secretary 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Twin City Supply ...... 13 hweaver@awci .com (952) 545-2725 Jim Meyer IT Director Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 15 1-866-367-2924 ext. 323 (516) 437-8700 [email protected]

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awci.com Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00 to 5:00 (EST) Closed National Holidays

56 Horological Times · July 2005 Cas-Ker Spring Bar Assortments

Our most popular assortments contain 216 stainless steel spring bars each for only $21 .95 Buy any three of the efour a rt1nent. and get a fourth one qfyozn choice - F1 eel Offer good thru the month of this issue of Ho rologic.tl Times. Our spring bar assortments come in a handy plastic compartment box with sliding lid.

~ ; ;;;

1.30 mm Stainless 1.30 mm Stainless 1.50 mm Stainless 1.80mm Stainless Double Shoulder Double Flange Double Flange Double Flange 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each size 7 thm 24mm. 12 each size 8 thru 24mm. 1.30mm diameter. 216 total. 1.30mm diameter. 216 pieces. 1.50mm diameter. 216 pieces. 1.80mm diameter. 216 pieces. 900.200 ...... $21.95 900.085 ...... $21.95 900.086 ...... $21.95 900.144 ...... $21.95 Refills 1 Size ...... $3.00 dz Refills 1 Size ...... $3.50 dz Refills 1 Size ...... $3.50 dz Refills 1 Size ...... $3.50 dz $10.00/100 $7.20/100 $7.20/100 $9.00/100

POINTED TYPE Width Cut White Tulane Yellow Save Time & Money with our 13mm 6mm PW-13-6 PT-13-6 PY-13-6 14mm 6mm PW-14-6 PT-14-6 Band End Piece Assortment 14mm 7mm PW-14-7 14mm 2Cuts PW-14-2C PT-14-2( STRAIGHT 18mm 7mm PW-1 8-7 18mm 8mm PY-18-8 72 piece 4!1 3 ~- - 18mm 9mm PW-18-9 2CUT 18mm 10mm PW-18-10 18mm 2Cuts PW-18-2C PT-18-2C PY-18-2( Only ...... :- Width - »­_,. 19mm 7mm PW-19-7 19mm 8mm PT-19-8 PY-19-8 20mm 8mm PW-20-8 PY-20-8 $2 .95 20mm 9mm PW-20-9 20mm 10mm PW-20- 10 20mm 2Cuts PW-20-2C PT-20-2( PY-20-2C Assortment contains 22mm 8mm PW-22-8 PT-22-8 two each end pieces ROUNDED TYPE STRAIGHT TYPE pointed, rounded and straight Width Cut White Tulane Width Cut White Tulane 14mm Smm RW-14-5 18mm 8mm SW-18-8 ST-18-8 styles. 72 pieces total. 18mm 8mm RW-18-8 RT-18-8 20mm 8mm SW-20-8 19mm 8mm RW-19-8 RT-19 -8 900.629 Band End Piece Assortment 20mm 8mm RT-20-8 Refills sold in pairs only ...... $2.00pr

CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~&(J(o. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com I

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