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STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

WAYNE AND CAROL TAMARELLI, , 2019

KINGDOM OF THE NUBIAN PHARAOHS

January 7 to 22, 2020

a program of the stanford alumni association The endless sands of Sudan have so many stories to tell. Known by the Egyptians as Kush, this arid desert region, with the mighty River coursing through it, was a flourishing center of trade and culture for centuries. From the pyramids at Napata and Meroë to the busy modern-day market of , we’ll get a glimpse unlike any other into Sudanese life. Join us on this unique travel experience, where you will learn about millennia of human history and connect with the people who call this country home today.

BRETT S. THOMPSON, ’83, DIRECTOR, STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY Highlights EXPLORE the Royal WANDER the Omdurman JOIN locals to watch an Necropolis of Meroë, souq outside , exciting Nuba wrestling where we’ll see ancient filled with Sudanese match, a sport that blends tombs in the Nubian produce, glassware, both traditional Nubian Desert, far from any pottery, leather goods and modern aspects of souvenir shop. and handcrafted jewelry. wrestling.

COVER: MEROË

KHARTOUM Faculty Leader GRANT PARKER, currently chair of Stanford’s department of classics, is also a faculty affiliate of the Center for African Studies and the Stanford Archaeology Center. Born and raised in , South , he earned his undergraduate and master’s degrees there before earning a PhD at Princeton. Dr. Parker specializes in Latin literature and Roman culture of the imperial period; several of his publications and courses have also addressed the classical tradition in modern times. His research projects typically involve cross-cultural exchange and representations, as well as museums, monuments and collective “Fascinating places, memory. Dr. Parker’s interests also include the literature of travel, the history of collecting, historic maps and public history. During brilliant professors, our program, he will lecture about the centuries of civilizations that have thrived in what is modern-day Sudan, and those civilizations’ amiable fellow pyramids, temples and other structures that still stand today. He will also touch upon the religious beliefs that pervade the region travelers of similar and will survey their different traditions. — Joined Stanford University’s department of classics interests—it’s all in 2006; associate professor since 2009; department chair since 2015 one could want — Richard E. Guggenheim Faculty Scholar since 2016, Stanford University from a travel — Resident fellow, Toyon Hall, Stanford University — Author, The Making of Roman India (2008), translator experience!” and commentator, and The Agony of Asar: a thesis on slavery by the former slave, Jacobus Eliza Johannes MARY BETH WHEELER, Capitein, 1717–1747 (2000) SUDAN, 2019 — PhD, classical philology, 1999, Princeton University

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

SIGN UP ONLINE: alumni.stanford.edu/trip?sudan2020 OR BY PHONE: (650) 725-1093

MEROË CAMP Soleb Sabu-Jaddi Third Cataract Fourth Kerma Tombos Cataract S UDAN Jebel N i l Barkal e

Nuri R Karima i Old v Bayuda e

r

El-Kurru Desert

Meroë Kabushiya UDAN S Musawwarat es-Sufra Naga Omdurman Khartoum

Thutmose III that were moved monolith believed to be the Itinerary from the sub- source of kingship for Nubian mergence area. At sunset, and Egyptian rulers. NUBIAN REST attend a ceremony performed HOUSE KARIMA (B,L,D) TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY, by Dervishes near the tomb of JANUARY 7 & 8 Ahmed Al Nil before returning to MONDAY, JANUARY 13 U.S. / KHARTOUM, KARIMA / OLD Khartoum for dinner. CORINTHIA SUDAN HOTEL (B,L,D) DONGOLA / TOMBOS Board planes for overnight Our first stop today is the flights arriving in Khartoum on SATURDAY, JANUARY 11 archaeological site of Old Wednesday and transfer to KHARTOUM / Dongola, with its Coptic our hotel. CORINTHIA HOTEL OMDURMAN churches and arabesque Cross to the west bank of the columns. Enjoy lunch at the THURSDAY, JANUARY 9 Nile from Khartoum to explore home of a local Nubian family, KHARTOUM nearby Omdurman, Sudan’s where we get to engage with Gather this morning for a capital in the 1880s, and visit locals in a way few tourists do. welcome lunch at our hotel the city’s vast souq—the largest Continue on to Tombos before before we embark on a cruise and most famous market in all arriving at our rustic tented to the of the Blue of Sudan. In the afternoon, drive camp, home for the next two and Rivers. CORINTHIA north of Khartoum to watch nights. PRESET CAMP (B,L,D) HOTEL (B,L) Nuba wrestling, a sport typical of the Kordofan region. CORINTHIA TUESDAY, JANUARY 14 FRIDAY, JANUARY 10 HOTEL (B,L,D) TOMBOS / THIRD KHARTOUM CATARACT / SABU- This morning continue our tour SUNDAY, JANUARY 12 JADDI / SOLEB of Khartoum, passing by the KHARTOUM / Today we travel to a nearby , former WESTERN DESERT / Ottoman fort for a stunning residence of Sudan’s post- KARIMA view of the Third Cataract of independence rulers, and view After breakfast, head into the the Nile. Next, stop at Sabu- the exterior of the nearby silver- Western Desert, taking in Jaddi to view its hundreds of domed tomb of El , a ageless, 360-degree vistas on images, ranging from prehistoric religious leader of the Samani- our way to Wadi Muqaddam to Egyptian times. Continue to yya order. After lunch at a local where we stop at an authentic the Temple of Soleb, arguably restaurant, visit the National chai (tea) house. Later, we arrive the most beautiful Egyptian Museum of Sudan. Also, view at Karima and check into our temple in all of Sudan and rich two temples built by Queen charming lodgings, not far with hieroglyphic inscriptions, Hatshepsut and Pharaoh from , an isolated bas-relief figures and elegant columns. PRESET CAMP (B,L,D) Soleb Sabu-Jaddi Third Cataract Fourth Kerma Tombos Cataract S UDAN Jebel N i l Barkal e

Nuri R Karima i Old Dongola v Bayuda e

r

El-Kurru Desert

Meroë Kabushiya UDAN S Musawwarat es-Sufra Naga Omdurman Khartoum NAGA KARIMA

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 15 some 82 tombs have been MONDAY, JANUARY 20 TOMBOS / KERMA / discovered at Nuri, with most MEROË / NAGA / KARIMA incorporating a pyramid. MUSAWWARAT Today we make our way to NUBIAN REST HOUSE (B,L,D) ES-SUFRA / Kerma, the first capital of the KHARTOUM Kingdom of Kush. It is home SATURDAY, JANUARY 18 Today we visit two archaeo- to seven remarkable statues KARIMA / BAYUDA logical sites. The first, Naga, of the Kushite Pharaohs. DESERT / MEROË is a collection of ruins dating Return to Karima, where we Today we enter the Bayuda from the Meroitic Period, and stay for the next three nights. Desert, which played a crucial its temples are a showcase NUBIAN REST HOUSE (B,L,D) role in the formation of one of of Kushite culture. Continue the world’s first civilizations. on to Musawwarat es-Sufra, THURSDAY, JANUARY 16 Take a pontin (ferry) across the located in a valley and known KARIMA / JEBEL Nile. Continue driving through for its “Great Enclosure,” one of BARKAL / EL-KURRU the desert to the Royal Necrop- northern Sudan’s major ancient Venture out to the foot of Jebal olis of Meroë, which encom- monuments. Returning to Khar- Barkal (“Holy Mountain” in Ara- passes more than 40 pyra- toum, enjoy dinner at our hotel. bic), a UNESCO World Heritage mids, some of them perfectly CORINTHIA HOTEL (B,L,D) site that’s often referred to as preserved. Head to our camp “the Mount Olympus” of the and view the necropolis and its TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY, Nubian kings, then spend some myriad pyramids in the setting JANUARY 21 & 22 KHARTOUM / U.S. time at the Karima market. After sun. MEROË CAMP (B,L,D) lunch, travel to the ancient site Return to the National Museum of El-Kurru, a vast complex of SUNDAY, JANUARY 19 to see artifacts from the ancient tombs and pyramids. In the MEROË / KABUSHIYA Kush kingdom and ’s late afternoon, return to Karima This morning, we enter the Christian period, as well as rel- to relax before dinner and an Royal Necropolis of Meroë. ics from the Al Saltan Al-Zarqa evening of traditional music and After exploring the site, stop era. Then gather for our farewell dance. NUBIAN REST HOUSE (B,L,D) in the small village of Kabushiya. reception and lunch, before a This afternoon visit the ruins of relaxing afternoon at leisure and FRIDAY, JANUARY 17 the ancient royal city of Meroë overnight flights home, arriving KARIMA / NURI much of which has yet to be in the U.S. on Wednesday. This morning, take a pleasant excavated. Return to our tented (1/21: B,L) cruise along the Nile. Following camp in the evening. MEROË lunch, visit the archaeological CAMP (B,L,D) site of Nuri, which was part of the Napata kingdom. To date, KARIMA

AIR ARRANGEMENTS You are responsible for booking and purchasing Trip Information airfare to the start location and from the end location of the program. These air purchases are NOT DATES included in the program cost. To assist you in January 7 to 22, 2020 (16 days) making these independent arrangements, we will send you information with your confirmation SIZE 28 participants (single accommodations materials on when to arrive and depart. limited—please call for availability) WHAT TO EXPECT We consider this to be a fairly strenuous program that is COST* $10,795 per person, double occupancy often physically demanding and busy; you should be in $12,995 per person, single occupancy good physical and mental health. The program includes *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers walks at historic sites where surfaces consist of sand add $300 per person dunes, uneven stones and/or gravel walkways and can last a few hours with little shade. In many instances, INCLUDED guided tours require standing in one place for up to one 9 nights of superior or best-available accommoda- hour. Northern Sudan has a , with a wide

tions; 4 nights at rustic tented camps 13 break- thermal range between day and night—from 75 (°F) to

fasts, 13 lunches and 11 dinners Welcome and 100 during the day down to the mid-50s in the evenings.

farewell receptions Sight-seeing by four-wheel- Travel can be time-consuming and unpredictable,

drive vehicle, maximum of 3 travelers per vehicle sometimes precipitating unexpected changes to our All tours and entrance fees as described in the itin- schedule. During our program we travel between

erary Gratuities to porters, guides and drivers for destinations by four-wheel-drive vehicle, over unpaved

all group activities Group transfers and baggage and bumpy roads. Two of our drives are eight hours long,

handling on program arrival and departure days including stops. There are no bathrooms available during

Minimal medical, accident and evacuation insurance our drives so travelers should expect to use “nature’s

Visa fees Educational program with lecture facilities” or pit toilets. All accommodations are clean and series and pre- departure materials, including rec- comfortable but Sudan’s tourism infrastructure is basic. ommended reading list, a selected book, map and We will stay at two different tented camps. The first camp

travel information Services of our professional tour has pit toilets and no private bathroom facilities; the manager to assist you throughout the program second camp has private showers and toilets. We expect that participants will be a self-selecting group whose NOT INCLUDED International and domestic airfare Passport fees interest in the places we visit far outweighs the need for Immunization costs Meals and beverages other creature comforts. We welcome travelers 15 years of age than those specified as included Independent and and older on this program. private transfers Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Excess-baggage charges Personal items such as internet access, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for non-group services OMDURMAN

Terms & Conditions if you purchase your policy within other causes beyond our control. Deposit & Final Payment A $1,000-per-person deposit is 14 days of written confirmation of All such losses or expenses will required to reserve space for this your participation on the trip. have to be borne by the passenger program. Sign up online at alumni. as tour rates provide arrangements Eligibility only for the time stated. We reserve stanford.edu/trip?sudan2020 or We encourage membership in the call Travel/Study at (650) 725-1093. the right to make such alterations Stanford Alumni Association as the to this published itinerary as may Final payment is due 120 days program cost for nonmembers is be deemed necessary. The right is prior to departure. As a condition $300 more than the members’ price. reserved to cancel any program prior of participation, all confirmed A person traveling as a guest paid to departure in which case the entire participants are required for by a current member will not payment will be refunded without to sign a Release of Liability. be charged the nonmember fee. further obligation on our part. The For more information or to purchase Cancellations & Refunds right is also reserved to decline to Deposits and any payments are a membership, visit alumni.stanford/ accept or retain any person as a refundable, less a $500-per-person goto/membership or call (650) member of the program. No refund cancellation fee, until 120 days prior 725-0692. will be made for an unused portion to departure. After that date, refunds of any tour unless arrangements Responsibility are made in sufficient time to avoid can be made only if the program is The Stanford Alumni Association, sold out and your place(s) can be penalties. Baggage is carried at the Stanford University and our operators owner’s risk entirely. The airlines resold, in which case a $1,000-per- act only as agents for the passenger concerned are not to be held person cancellation fee will apply. with respect to transportation and responsible for any act, omission or exercise every care possible in doing Insurance event during the time that passengers Stanford Travel/Study provides so. However, we can assume no are not on board their plane or all travelers who are U.S. or liability for injury, damage, loss, conveyance. Neither the Stanford Canadian citizens with minimal accident, delay or irregularity in Alumni Association, Stanford connection with the service of any medical, accident and evacuation University nor our operators accept automobile, motor coach, launch coverage under our group-travel liability for any carrier’s cancellation or any other conveyance used in insurance policy. Our group policy penalty incurred by the purchase of carrying out this program or for the is intended to provide minimal a nonrefundable ticket in connection acts or defaults of any company or levels of protection while you are with the tour. Program price is based person engaged in conveying the traveling on this program. You may on rates in effect in May 2019 and is passenger or in carrying out the subject to change without notice to choose to subscribe to optional trip- arrangements of the program. We reflect fluctuations in exchange rates, cancellation and baggage insurance. cannot accept any responsibility for tariffs or fuel charges. Information offering such insurance losses or additional expenses due will be provided to travelers with their to delay or changes in air or other welcome materials. The product services, sickness, weather, strike, offered includes special benefits war, quarantine, force majeure or

© COPYRIGHT 2019 STANFORD ALUMNI TELEPHONE (650) 725-1093 ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. EMAIL [email protected] PRINTED ON RECYCLED, FSC-CERTIFIED California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 PAPER IN THE U.S. PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANCY S. MUELLER: MEROË, MEROË CAMP, K ARIM A , YOUNG GIRLS, EL-KURRU STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY started out with“We and only abit much of curiosity knowledge. WAYNE AND CAROL TAMARELLI, SUDAN, 2019 SUDAN, TAMARELLI, CAROL AND WAYNE We up with ended ahuge understanding and appreciation of this little-visited jewel of geography, history and culture.” EL-KURRU Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street PAID Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni (650) 725-1093 Association

KINGDOM OF THE NUBIAN PHARAOHS

January 7 to 22, 2020

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY