Pencil Skirt Fii01001 Table of Content
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS PENCIL SKIRT FII01001 TABLE OF CONTENT
METHODOLOGY ...... 3
Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10
SEWING ...... 11
1. Darts ...... 11 2. Front ...... 12 3. Back ...... 12 4. Invisible zipper ...... 13 5. Side seams ...... 15 6. Facing ...... 16 7. Buttons ...... 18 8. Hemline and vent ...... 21 9. Lining front ...... 23 10. Lining back ...... 24 11. Lining side seams ...... 25 12. Attaching lining to skirt ...... 25 13. Frill ...... 31 14. Waistband ...... 34 15. Belt loops and button loops ...... 35 16. Waist ...... 38 17. Placket ...... 39 18. Buttons ...... 48 19. Hemline ...... 51 20. Belt ...... 51
GLOSSARY ...... 55
Pencil skirt FII01001 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY
SYMBOLOGY
PATTERN MARKINGS
SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE
CENTER LINE FOLD LINE
PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE
GATHER STRETCH
BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH
SEAM STRUCTURE
INTERFACING FABRIC
ZIPPER SERGE
CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH
SEWING LINE FOLD LINE
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT
Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger
Universal foot Serger foot Overedge foot Invisible zipper foot
Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch
9
8
7 3 6
5
4 2
3
2 1 1
Thread snips Tailors chalk or Bobbins Ruler soap
3” 4 8
3” 1” 1” 1
1 4 2
1 8
1” 1”
4 1”
8 5”
Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED
• Fabric • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • 5/8” (1.5 cm) Four Flat Buttons • Sewing needle / Universal • 5/8” (1.5 cm) Five Buttons for placket • Sewing thread • 8” - 12” (20cm - 30cm) Invisible zipper
The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric
BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)
BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 57” (145 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)
BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X
A BUST 59” (150 cm) 130” (330 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)
Recommended fabrics:
FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %
Chino Medium 0-3 % Denim /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Stretch Denim Medium Heavy Corfuroy /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Twill Heavy Velveteen /10oz - 12oz (339g - 407g)/ Leather - Like
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES
DA EA
SKIRT FABRIC PIECES
Front A B Front Side Right C D Back Center Right E G Back Side Right F Front Facing AA DA Back Facing Right EA Frill Pieces P; O; R Frill Facing Pieces PA; OA; RA Frill Waistband OB Belt S PB Right Placket Piece RB Belt Loops Z Button Loops V
SKIR T LINING PIECES
Front H I Front Side Right J L Back Center Right K N Back Side Right M
the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY
Fabric key
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing
Interfacing placement on garment
Laying out and cutting fabric
Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”
1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.
Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 8 Sewing technology
n
i
a
r
g
s
s
o
r c
lengthwise grain
Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on grain. Cut the fabric.
EC DC
E D
EB DB
Take a piece of fuse interfacing, you are going to need this to cut just parts of pattern pieces that need to be fused. Place the patterns on a single layer of interfacing on grain. Cut the fabric.
SKIRT INTERFACING PIECES
Zipper placement EC; DC Vent placement EB; DB
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION
SERGE illustration
action
Finishing the side seams.
PLACE
seam structure
Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW
Sew the side seams.
instruction
Pencil skirt METHODOLOGY FII01001 Page 10 How to read instruction
BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,
YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING
AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION
Thank you, Fayma Team