ALL HE SURVEYS BORGO’S MUSIC KARL LAGERFELD AND FENDI INVITED GUESTS LIKE RIHANNA MATCH NEW BAG AN EXCLUSIVE AND SARAH JESSICA PARKER TO JEWELRY DESIGNER PREVIEW OF THE H&M THE 83RD FLOOR OF A NEW YORK LOVES COACHELLA HIGH RISE TO FETE THE BRAND’S EDDIE BORGO IS INTRODUCING COLLECTION. NEW FLAGSHIP. PAGE 22 HIS FIRST HANDBAG COLLECTION. PAGE 18 PAGE 18

FINE-TUNING THE GAINS At NYFW, Brands Focus On Social Media’s ROI

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

BEEN THERE, done that. Fashion is looking for the next big thing in digital — but this week is shaping up to be more of the same as brands forgo just chasing buzz to focus on social media programs that drive conversion and bring a re- MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY turn on investment. WWD Face it, there aren’t that many new bells and whis- tles out there. Most of the digital initiatives this fash- ion week are in keeping with previous efforts to reach the masses online, and the big platforms are sticking to the tried and true. Just look at the #FashionFlock program that Twitter kicked off last week. The platform has 50 infl uencers — designers, bloggers and celebrities from Marc Jacobs to Nina Garcia — tweeting the goings-on of fashion week Hot & to the wider world. It’s essentially the same thing the microblogging platform did in September, except that Mophie is now an offi cial partner and the program in- cludes twice as many participants. “Each fashion week we’re seeing more and more activity on Twitter, and it’s gotten to the point where Collared if you’re not participating in the conversation, you’re missing out,” said Rachel Dodes, head of fashion Who knew swans and dandies could partnerships at Twitter. “It’s not just about being on fi nd such chemistry? Joseph Altuzarra Twitter anymore — it’s about how you’re tweeting.” identifi ed common ground. Both, he said, Where there has been some innovation, it has been more incremental, building on past practices. embraced “the performative aspects of Tommy Hilfi ger, for instance, will take the live dressing,” so it made sense that they tweet a step further at its show this morning. The would commingle beautifully on the runway. brand is going to tweet out one 30th anniversary look from its forthcoming collection and users can add The results were alluring and steamy, additional graphics and text using Twitter’s Mirror fi lled with fl amboyant fur action by day, technology. While the technology hasn’t been used in this way before, the real newness is that the brand and by night, exquisite is letting followers see its fashions before showgoers. embroidered dresses Instagram doesn’t have any over-arching fashion such as the one week initiatives. The Facebook-owned image and here, collared in COLLECTIONS SEE PAGE 21 lace and worn with a tony upgrade on NEW YORK kinky boots. For FALL 2015 Retailers Flock to Mark more on fall, see pages 6 to 15. China’s Year of the Sheep

By CHARLOTTE MIDDLEHURST

SHANGHAI — China’s era of lower but more stable economic growth — dubbed “the new normal” — has raised questions over the vigor of consumer sentiment. But as the country enters the Year of the Sheep, the outlook for retailers appears anything but sheepish. Last year, China’s retail sector glided into the New Year period with steady growth. The run-up to this year’s holiday period has been longer — with the Lunar New Year or Spring Festival season kicking off Wednesday — and less certain. Statistics released in January re- vealed that China missed its 2014 GDP growth target of 7.5 percent — though only marginally, at 7.4 percent — indicating slower growth across most retail sectors, with the exception of online and outlet malls. Volatility in the Shanghai stock market also caused tremors for investors. Retailers remain optimistic, though. One reason is that this year’s holiday buildup coincided with Valentine’s Day, helping spur sales of watches, jew- elry and lifestyle categories. Another bonus is that travel retail is increasing, and with gift-giving back, this is good news for luxury brands. While neither the Chinese government nor major retail organizations seem to be releasing Chinese New Year sales forecasts, FocusEconomics Media predicts that mainland China’s nominal retail sales in the fi rst quarter will climb 12.3 percent over the corresponding period in 2014. But the Hong Kong Retail Management Association, citing economic un- certainties, said it expects Chinese New Year retail PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 20 T:21” S:20.75” Totes, TargetStyle.

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LASER OUTPUT @ None PRO 4 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD.COM

VF Frustrated by Acquisition Drought THE BRIEFING BOX its contemporary coalition — Seven For All Mankind, By ARNOLD J. KARR Splendid and Ella Moss — as its Outdoor & Action IN TODAY’S WWD Sports coalition, the largest of the fi ve into which the VF CORP. REMAINS poised for acquisitions de- company is organized, logged the largest improve- spite going several years without one and ending ments in sales and operating profi ts for the quarter. New York Fashion Week 2014 with a nearly $400 million write-off on Seven In the three months ended Jan. 3, VF’s net in- street style. For more, For All Mankind and other contemporary business- come declined 66.8 percent to $122.1 million, or 28 see WWD.com. es purchased during the last decade. cents, from profi ts of $367.7 million, or 82 cents, in As a fi rm always on the prowl for its next pur- the year-ago quarter. Excluding the noncash, pretax chase, VF has come up frequently as a possible buyer charge, adjusted earnings per share for the quarter for companies ranging from Lululemon Athletica Inc. were 98 cents, matching analysts’ consensus esti- to Puma, but it hasn’t pulled the trigger on an acqui- mates and helping to lift the stock $4.26, or 6 per- sition since completing the largest in its history, the cent, to $75.26 despite the lower reported earnings. $2.3 billion purchase of The Timberland Co., in 2011. Quarterly revenues were up 8.8 percent to $3.58 Eric Wiseman, chairman, president and chief ex- billion from $3.29 billion in the fourth quarter of ecutive offi cer of the Greensboro, N.C.-based apparel 2013 and rose 11 percent on a constant currency giant, told WWD Friday that the absence of a transac- basis. Gross margin rose to 49 percent from 48.2 tion wasn’t from a lack of either interest or effort. percent a year ago. “I wish we could have gotten something done While the contemporary coalition saw revenues KIBLER RYAN PHOTO BY last year,” he said, “and I certainly hope we can get drop 0.9 percent to $39.2 million and operating prof- something done this year.” its tumble 79.7 percent to $1.8 million, Outdoor & He noted that VF initiates its contact with pro- Action Sports’ top line rose 12.8 percent to $2.16 bil- Fashion is looking for the next big thing in digital — but this spective targets. “We’re not reacting to telephone lion, and operating income rose the most of the fi ve week is shaping up to be more of the same as brands forgo just calls that we get,” he said. “We call businesses that coalitions, advancing 20.7 percent to $432.3 million. chasing buzz to focus on social media programs. PAGE 1 we’d like to acquire. That has been our strategy.” Over the course of the year, Vans joined The Often, the fi rst response is a “no,” but frequently North Face to become the second $2 billion brand China’s era of lower but more stable economic growth — one that serves to start a relationship that “builds in VF’s portfolio. The group acquired Vans for $396 dubbed “the new normal” — has raised questions over the vigor over time, and sometimes the answer changes million in 2004 after picking up The North Face, of consumer sentiment. PAGE 1 over time,” Wiseman said. The fi rst contacts with nearing bankruptcy, for $25.4 million in 2000. Timberland, which elicited an initial negative re- “When we bought The North Face, its sales were Which stores met customers’ expectations better than the sponse, “go back two decades” and involved not only about $200 million. In the last year, North Face sold about competition? See the results in a newly released survey by his immediate predecessor as ceo, Mackey McDonald, $100 million of its new Thermoball jacket at wholesale,” Brand Keys. PAGE 4 but McDonald’s predecessor, Larry Pugh, as well. Wiseman pointed out, addressing both the brand’s focus As for where a deal might occur, the strength of the on innovation and its power in the marketplace. The White House has dispatched Labor Secretary Tom Perez dollar increases the odds that it could be an overseas In contrast, VF paid an estimated $775 million to California to help mediate between unionized dockworkers company. Much of the conversation on the company’s to buy Seven For All Mankind in 2007 and $208 mil- and cargo carriers deadlocked over a labor contract. PAGE 18 conference call Friday about the recent swings in lion for the two-thirds of Ella Moss and Splendid it currency translation concerned their potential nega- didn’t already own in 2009. tive impact on VF’s revenues and earnings this year. But Wiseman remains committed to the value The Internet age has bred some seriously high-rolling big Having generated 38 percent of its revenues in mar- of the contemporary acquisitions. “We sell jeans spenders — and Moda Operandi just raised another $60 million kets outside the U.S. last year, the fi rm’s global reach in the mass, midtier, department store, specialty to service them. PAGE 20 exposes it to more headwinds than most U.S. con- and premium department store channels,” he said. glomerates. But Wiseman readily acknowledged that “People shop in those places and we need to be Alibaba revealed that the U.S. SEC is asking for information the rapidly changing currency picture had made a there. A piece of VF needs to be aimed at contem- about a meeting the company had last summer with a Chinese European, Asian or other acquisition more attractive. porary and that was the role of Seven. Premium regulator over questionable business practices. PAGE 21 “International is looking more and more attractive denim and contemporary in general have been to us because of the strength of the U.S. dollar,” he said, through a challenging time, but they’ll be back.” Wherever the West-Kardashians go — the Grammys, Kanye’s “and we’re continuing to have discussions with people. For 2015, VF projected an 8 percent increase in cur- Adidas collaboration — cameras follow, so it was no surprise to We just don’t have anything we can talk about today.” rency-neutral sales, 3 percent on a reported basis, with see them on the clock, even on Valentine’s Day. PAGE 22 VF has more than ample resources to pull off its EPS rising 12 percent, 4 percent on a reported basis and next deal. While long-term debt last year was es- gross margin growing 40 basis points to 49.2 percent. The Gucci Museum in Florence is opening its seventh sentially unchanged at $1.42 billion, cash and cash For the 12 months, net income, including the contemporary art exhibition on March 13 called, “The Language equivalents grew 25.2 percent to $971.9 million. impairment charge, dropped 13.4 percent to $1.05 of Flowers.” PAGE 23 The group saw its fourth-quarter profi ts drop as it billion, or $2.38 a diluted share, while revenues ex- wrote off $396 million for impairment of the brands in panded 7.6 percent to $12.15 billion. Judging by the frenzied photographers inside DKNY’s fall show, held at the Cedar Lake Dance Company space on Sunday, Gap Grows Between Brands and Customers some major celebrities were about to arrive. PAGE 23 I In department stores, Marshall’s and TJ Maxx ON WWD.COM By LISA LOCKWOOD tied for fi rst place, followed by Macy’s, Kohl’s, Dillard’s, J.C. Penney and Sears. THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto J. CREW, NIKE, MARSHALL’S and TJ Maxx, Wal- I In discount, Wal-Mart landed in the number-one the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from New York Mart, Home Depot, Whole Foods, Amazon.com, spot, followed by Target and Kmart. Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. Costco and Dick’s all ranked in the No. 1 spot of I In online retail, Amazon.com came in at number their respective retail categories based on their one, followed by Zappos.com, eBay.com, Overstock. ability to meet customers’ expectations better than com and Buy.com. CORRECTION the competition, according to a survey by Brand I In price clubs, Costco came in at number one, fol- Keys, the New York-based brand engagement and lowed by Sam’s and B.J.’s. Costume designer Milena Canonero’s Oscars honors were customer loyalty research consultancy. I In sporting goods, Dick’s scored the top spot, fol- incorrectly stated in Bridget Foley’s Diary on page 12, Feb. 12. The 2015 Customer Loyalty Engagement Index lowed by Cabela’s, REI, Big 5 Sporting Goods, and Canonero has won three Oscars, for “Barry Lyndon” (1975), found that the gap between what consumers expect Sports Authority and Modell’s tied. “Chariots of Fire” (1981) and “Marie Antoinette” (2006). Her and what brands deliver is bigger and driven almost I In natural foods, Whole Foods came in at number nomination this year for “The Grand Budapest Hotel” is her ninth. entirely by emotional values, such as “is this brand one, followed by The Fresh Market, Trader Joe’s for me?” or “does this brand understand me?” and Sprouts Farmers Market. Brand Keys has been tracking consumers’ expecta- I In home improvement, Home Depot came in fi rst FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA tions for 20 years. According to the index, consumer place, followed by Lowe’s, Ace and True Value. @ WWD.com/social expectations have jumped nearly 23 percent over Passikoff said he’s found that retailers’ reliance 2014 but brands have only managed to improve their on technology is a new form of outreach, but not TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ability to satisfy those expectations by 5 percent. a new form of communication. He said customers WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. Robert Passikoff, president of Brand Keys, said, feel that “you’re talking at me, not talking to me.” COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 32. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, “In a marketplace where retail brands struggle to He said he was surprised to fi nd that customers’ Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, create meaningful differentiation and engagement, expectations are even higher than last year, “and and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. those better able to identify customers’ expecta- brands are not keeping up.” A lot of relatively new Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian tions and address them via authentic emotional brands made the list. In fact, 8 percent of the entire addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, values will see tangible bottom-line results.” list (which includes other retail categories as well) P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at Here’s how the brands ranked in their respec- are new brands, which Passikoff said are doing a wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York tive retail categories: better job than traditional ones in delivering what Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected I In apparel, J. Crew came in at number one, fol- their customer wants. “I don’t think retailers do address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you lowed by Old Navy, Victoria’s Secret, Banana a very good job of understanding their consumer. are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues Republic and Foot Locker (tie), H&M, PacSun, They’ve done the demographic stuff and they un- contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production Anthropologie, Forever 21 and L.L. Bean (tie), Gap, derstand inventory and location-based buying, but correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. Express, American Eagle Outfi tters, Aéropostale, if you talk about emotionality, you don’t see them For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. American Apparel and Abercrombie & Fitch. doing anything about it,” said Passikoff. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED I In athletic footwear, Nike took the top spot, fol- For the 2015 survey, done in January, 36,605 con- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND lowed by New Balance, Skechers, Adidas, Reebok, sumers, ages 18 to 65, self-selected the categories in TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Mizuno and Fila (tie), Asics and Under Armour (tie) which they are consumers and the brands for which TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE and Brooks. they are customers. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WSW_GL_RW_02_SP_10X13.875inch_WWD_US.indd 2 1/29/15 10:29 AM

CLIENT/SEASON TOMMY HILFIGER SS15 SIZES (W X H, SINGLE PAGE) PUBLICATION WWD LIVE 9.252 x 13.127 INCH UNIT Singlepage RHP TRIM 10 X 13.875 INCH ISSUE DATE/POSTING DATE February issue BLEED non-bleed CLOSING DATE 2015-01-26 6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015

Altuzarra Alexander Diane von Furstenberg Monique Wang Lhuillier

His fall design process began tailoring of cropped pants Fall 2015 with an analysis of what gives and harsh jackets had pocket cult items value, what makes chains made of little silver balls brands scramble for nostalgic that also trimmed coat collars New York Collections collaboration, and he concluded and dresses with panels cut to Runway looks ranged from racy lace to heavy-metal motifs. with the theorem that identity mimic Gene Simmons’ Demon is all about pattern and color. face paint. The same pattern Wang’s favorite color is black recurred on handbags. Quilted Altuzarra: Dandies and swans and Tom Ford, references out from under, the white lace and he’s not alone. pieces looked made from luxe (of the Black and White Ball he used but didn’t abuse. His leapt from demure to decadent “Our retailers are always packing blankets — I’m with swans) — little ambiguity to primary idea for fall sounds in see-through dresses and saying, ‘Can we have the black the band! — while silk pajamas those muses. “It was a lot about simple enough: a curvy, hem- as shirt collars attached to version?’” said Wang during a and bathrobes refl ected the the performative aspects of fl ounced skirt; a great piece of exquisite chiffon dresses preview. “So I said, ‘Why don’t we lush side of Goth. dressing and taking pleasure in outerwear; plays of texture; a embroidered with sequins. just do an all-black collection?’” All of the details, the design dressing up,” Joseph Altuzarra bold, voluminous shot of fur. Given such fl amboyance, one Technically the lineup was equivalent of puns, were part said during a preview. The designer kept the could skip over the more basic not totally black — there were of Wang’s playful spirit, yet In a short time, Altuzarra interest high throughout, aspects of Altuzarra’s dandy two ivory fi sherman sweaters the attitude of the show was has proven himself a deft fusing the elements’ bravado inclinations; but one shouldn’t. worn with stonewashed jeans, seriously aggressive. The purveyor of sensual polish. For and considerable diversity. He His tailoring was distinctive two red plaids and a few models stomped out in extreme fall, he delivered it beautifully opened with a short peacoat and smart, a bit of dash to the metallic mesh getups. The rest platform lug-sole combat boots — steamy glamour with a touch with huge fox collar over a jackets, with lean-cut pants that was pitch black and hardcore, with wet, stringy hair covering of gender obfuscation — as if whisper-delicate lace blouse made the models’ endless legs framed within the street sect of their zombie faces. Two fi tted Oscar Wilde crashed the Capote and black skirt, side-slit to look impossibly more so. Dandy heavy metal. Had Wang enlisted velvet crop tops, worn with party and Lauren Bacall, all reveal lace-up boots with a indeed. — BRIDGET FOLEY an old-school collaborator for skirts that swished with silver attitude and side-slit skirt, took slightly kinky ruffl e at the cred, it might have been Hot fringe, were womanly in a off with his frock coat. knee. The collar would prove Alexander Wang: As much a Topic, the mall store where witchy way, but there was not a Altuzarra believes that a recurring theme on smart, student of streetwear as he is angsty, alternative teens buy soft side to this collection. Wang clothes are a conduit for tailored pieces that dripped an influencer of the genre at clothes that scare their parents. was unfl inching in his point of telegraphing one’s sexuality, and urbane chic, but the fur took this point, Alexander Wang It was a gutsy, defi ant view and there’s a lot to be said that they must function within digressions both girly (pastel has built several of his recent collection. References to for such conviction. Plus the the context of a woman’s modern pink and blue fox coats) and collections around street metal abounded in the very retailers can sell black all day reality; on both counts he’s a tough (shearling collar on a subcultures. Sneakerheads for sophisticated construction of long — and all night long, too. disciple of Yves Saint Laurent leather vest). When it came spring, surf and skate for men’s. the clothes. Severe, mannish — JESSICA IREDALE 6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 7 WWD.COM

collar, an open back — that Altuzarra Alexander Diane von Furstenberg Monique Derek Victoria Adam intensifi ed the glam of several Wang Lhuillier Lam Beckham Lippes ultrachic trenchcoats. Lam’s approach is decidedly lean on fi reworks. He thinks clients fi rst, editorial fodder a distant second. “I ask women, ‘how do you use fashion?’ and I try to respond to that,” he said. Touché. — B.F.

Victoria Beckham: Apropos of nothing that has anything to do with Victoria Beckham’s clothes, her front row offered happy evidence that family fashion day doesn’t have to play like failed satire. Beckham’s brood was in town for the show. From the polished, grown-up Brooklyn to little Harper, sitting on dad David’s lap (poor thing, she didn’t wear a fur chubby), the kids looked charming and approachable, and, until the boys pulled out their phones to capture Victoria’s bow, their respectful, low-key demeanor would have been appropriate at a different kind of Sunday spectator outing — church. Kudos, Mom and Dad. The runway proved lovely as well, a study in calm sexiness. Beckham kept the clothes body- conscious but languid, creating manageable volume by folding, twisting, spiraling. Asymmetry added a dash of approachable yet arty, whether in a half-peplum protruding from a dress or an extra spill of fabric from the side of a skirt. “It’s about taking volume and structure and turning it on its head,” she said during a preview. Beckham’s customer continues to love a dress, and the designer continues to oblige. High-neck looks were anything but prim. A white version had fl aps that buttoned in to defi ne the torso; a black dress was belted through side cutouts. But Beckham wants to branch out. Her separates were cozy by day — lush sweaters with lantern sleeves over twisted skirts — and by night, surprisingly alternative: off-kilter skirts appliquéd with giant bow cutouts and paired with simple T-shirts. “It feels like modern evening,” she said. “I’m looking forward to wearing it.” It’s a good bet her ladies will as well. — B.F.

Adam Lippes: Adam Lippes was inspired by the photographs of Philip-Lorca diCorcia’s 1993 show at the Museum of Modern Art. One wonders why at fi rst His fall design process began tailoring of cropped pants Diane von Furstenberg: “When you swallow cutouts, fl amboyant cutting them in dotted or star- fashion. After several seasons glance, but that is the point for Fall 2015 with an analysis of what gives and harsh jackets had pocket get old, you better enjoy your furs and insatiable lust for that embroidered tulle. With a new of one-note motifs, Lam Lippes. “I’m creating garments,” cult items value, what makes chains made of little silver balls past.” Diane von Furstenberg passion-danger duet of red and attention to structure, she determined to incorporate a he explained, “that force one to brands scramble for nostalgic that also trimmed coat collars offered one of the verbal pearls at black. It came in slipgowns, beautifully balanced her softest broader cast of characters. He look again” — at the fabrics, the New York Collections collaboration, and he concluded and dresses with panels cut to which she excels and which make a very sporting polo dress dresses with smartly tailored found inspiration, he said, in construction (both inside and out) Runway looks ranged from racy lace to heavy-metal motifs. with the theorem that identity mimic Gene Simmons’ Demon one wonder, if I live by those (peekaboo red lace; sparkly red wool jackets or tweed mohair “New York women, specifi cally and the almost-hidden details. is all about pattern and color. face paint. The same pattern rules (or lack thereof), could I collar), and a parka to really take coats. One structured jacket, Mia Farrow, Dianne Wiest “What seems basic and simple Wang’s favorite color is black recurred on handbags. Quilted ever be 10 percent as fabulous? your mind off the cold, covered worn over a thigh-high sheath in and those Woody Allen kinds is not.” A little black relaxed Altuzarra: Dandies and swans and Tom Ford, references out from under, the white lace and he’s not alone. pieces looked made from luxe “You better be proud of your in metallic red DVF lips. plum tulle and lace, may have of characters.” The ruse was slipdress had hidden side pleats (of the Black and White Ball he used but didn’t abuse. His leapt from demure to decadent “Our retailers are always packing blankets — I’m with past,” she continued. “Live fully.” Audacious, racy, with some been out of sync with Lhuillier’s more than cinematic homage. and an asymmetric sheer panel, swans) — little ambiguity to primary idea for fall sounds in see-through dresses and saying, ‘Can we have the black the band! — while silk pajamas When DVF’s girls of fall are in out-there moments. But lots of Twenties-style longer, liquid Lam works the trunk-show and a black leather coat had a those muses. “It was a lot about simple enough: a curvy, hem- as shirt collars attached to version?’” said Wang during a and bathrobes refl ected the their dotage, my oh my, will they fun for a girl who lives fully and looks, but this combination circuit himself, and hears from snap-out silk quilted lining. Up the performative aspects of fl ounced skirt; a great piece of exquisite chiffon dresses preview. “So I said, ‘Why don’t we lush side of Goth. be proud. Von Furstenberg called then some. Because what broad added a feisty new spirit. For women directly on what they close, a knockout classic black- dressing and taking pleasure in outerwear; plays of texture; a embroidered with sequins. just do an all-black collection?’” All of the details, the design her show “Seduction,” and her wants to look back on her youth more formal affairs, the designer want when it comes to their and-white tweed skirt and a dressing up,” Joseph Altuzarra bold, voluminous shot of fur. Given such fl amboyance, one Technically the lineup was equivalent of puns, were part invitation featured a keyhole as a wallfl ower?— B.F. offered lovely gowns in gunmetal, wardrobes. “We do that, from Chesterfi eld coat were covered said during a preview. The designer kept the could skip over the more basic not totally black — there were of Wang’s playful spirit, yet looking in upon a suggestive red embroidered antique gold, tailoring to sweaters to dresses, with gray pearl studs. In a short time, Altuzarra interest high throughout, aspects of Altuzarra’s dandy two ivory fi sherman sweaters the attitude of the show was fi eld. Any synchronicity with a Monique Lhuillier: About half of the copper and burnout velvet. But and casual evening,” Lam said. A Lippes presentation is has proven himself a deft fusing the elements’ bravado inclinations; but one shouldn’t. worn with stonewashed jeans, seriously aggressive. The just-premiered, much-hyped space at Monique Lhuillier’s some of the silk satin numbers You can’t get much more always about great-looking purveyor of sensual polish. For and considerable diversity. He His tailoring was distinctive two red plaids and a few models stomped out in extreme movie is purely coincidental; Lincoln Center venue was set were overwrought with long direct than that: real clothes on clothes and a few surprises. This fall, he delivered it beautifully opened with a short peacoat and smart, a bit of dash to the metallic mesh getups. The rest platform lug-sole combat boots how could von Furstenberg have aside for tiered platforms that trains, cutouts and asymmetrical the runway. Lam provided the season, the designer said he did — steamy glamour with a touch with huge fox collar over a jackets, with lean-cut pants that was pitch black and hardcore, with wet, stringy hair covering known months ago when she served as a stage for each of the extremes. Yet for many Lhuillier goods without drawing straight “more furs than usual,” (two) one of gender obfuscation — as if whisper-delicate lace blouse made the models’ endless legs framed within the street sect of their zombie faces. Two fi tted started work on this collection? 36 models after they walked the fans, judging by her audience, lines to any of his characters, of which was a French Orylag, Oscar Wilde crashed the Capote and black skirt, side-slit to look impossibly more so. Dandy heavy metal. Had Wang enlisted velvet crop tops, worn with (Her music happened more runway. It was a striking conceit there’s no such thing as too but with the touch of Seventies which feels like chinchilla, cut in party and Lauren Bacall, all reveal lace-up boots with a indeed. — BRIDGET FOLEY an old-school collaborator for skirts that swished with silver recently. It’s from the fi lm.) for her electric jewel-toned decked out. — BOBBI QUEEN that has become a signature. A a simple overcoat in a rust and attitude and side-slit skirt, took slightly kinky ruffl e at the cred, it might have been Hot fringe, were womanly in a Kismet or not, this collection evening collection for fall, which simple sweater and skirt went ivory which he called “roasted off with his frock coat. knee. The collar would prove Alexander Wang: As much a Topic, the mall store where witchy way, but there was not a was 50 shades of shameless, but began with below-the-knee Derek Lam: Derek Lam moved to schoolgirl cool when the skirt marshmallow.” He also designed Altuzarra believes that a recurring theme on smart, student of streetwear as he is angsty, alternative teens buy soft side to this collection. Wang playfully so, celebrating a woman sheaths in plum, midnight or teal a new venue, upping the design came in high-shine patent and his fi rst bold print — a brights-on- clothes are a conduit for tailored pieces that dripped an influencer of the genre at clothes that scare their parents. was unfl inching in his point of who, according to the program guipure lace. These beauties impact of his set with an angular art-student interesting in camel black fl oral done with the fl orist telegraphing one’s sexuality, and urbane chic, but the fur took this point, Alexander Wang It was a gutsy, defi ant view and there’s a lot to be said notes, “commands her world” evolved into fuller A-line versions maze of low seating in light with graphic felted edges. Such Putnam and Putnam — used that they must function within digressions both girly (pastel has built several of his recent collection. References to for such conviction. Plus the by day and “inspires fantasy” at in textured and fl oral laces. brown wood through which his details converted classics into on pants, jackets, T-shirts and the context of a woman’s modern pink and blue fox coats) and collections around street metal abounded in the very retailers can sell black all day night. She does it in a delirious Lhuillier knows how to models meandered. “We wanted fashion: the double hem on dresses in a refi ned range of reality; on both counts he’s a tough (shearling collar on a subcultures. Sneakerheads for sophisticated construction of long — and all night long, too. swirl of lace-back wrap dresses, make her jumpsuits every bit as a bit more atmosphere,” he said. the jacket of a sleek pantsuit; fabrics that included silk organza, disciple of Yves Saint Laurent leather vest). When it came spring, surf and skate for men’s. the clothes. Severe, mannish — JESSICA IREDALE hourglass pinstripes, naughty feminine as her girly dresses, And more diversity to the exaggerated elements — a bold cashmere and wool. — B.Q. BECKHAM AND DVF PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; WANG AND LAM BY JOHN AQUINO; ALTUZZARA BY STEVE EICHNER; LHUILLIER BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT STEVE EICHNER; LHUILLIER BY BY JOHN AQUINO; ALTUZZARA AND LAM GIANNONI; WANG BY GIOVANNI BECKHAM AND DVF PHOTOS BY 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015

DKNY Moncler Public Public Lacoste Grenoble School School

Lacoste

FALL 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

DKNY: “The New York woman who dresses in the background. Models were posed on on an anorak and poncho, which gave the effects of the 100,000 euros and a year of day to night, who’s illuminated by black moving platforms that lifted them from a lineup a cool, improvisational attitude. But mentorship he won as a recipient of the with shots of color and neon lights. larger-than-life, neon-red chocolate box. everything was considered. The Public inaugural special runner-up prize have The young working woman, the ageless The finale: a bride draped in a quilted School urban nomads are a polished bunch. been apparent in his last two shows, working woman...” Donna Karan was down gown and a groom in a down tuxedo — JESSICA IREDALE beginning with last month’s outing at rattling off her numerous inspirations adorned with tails. — FREDERICK MARFIL Pitti Uomo as well as Sunday’s fall show. after her fall show — all centered around Lacoste: A red tracksuit with the words To the fi rst-time viewer, the latter her beloved city — a theme underscored Public School: By their own admission, Dao- “René Did It First” printed on the jacket collection probably lived up to the by an LCD screen that lit up the runway, Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have spent and matching headband kicked off the reputation for deviant, gender-bending displaying tweets about what New York the past few seasons — two, plus two pre- men’s offering at Lacoste. Felipe Oliveira street culture extremes Oliver has quickly meant to random Twitter users. collections for women — cementing their Baptista, probably trying to state the label’s earned. The models wore pantyhose A men’s wear infl uence ran through the aesthetic code. That meant deliberate colonizing status in light of the current ath- crudely scribbled with eyebrows, collection via tailored suiting in black, gray repetition, maybe playing it a little safe. leisure trend, presented a collection full of sideburns and facial hair over their and navy; high-neck ribbed turtlenecks; Now that their point’s across, they’re free Seventies references with an sporty urban faces, obscuring their sex. The men an oversize graphic herringbone coat; and to be more expressive. Chow said the fall style that felt a bit “Royal Tenenbaums,” wearing high-heeled, square-toe platform tapered trousers worn Michael Jackson- collection is “personal,” inspired by his given the nutmeg color in trenches, fur clodhoppers and dresses slit to the crotch style with white socks and brogues. Karan and Osborne’s time in the early Nineties coats and suits. The use of Art Deco prints had a feminine strut to their step. But said the Manhattan skyline, with its peaks New York club scene as it transitioned in sweatshirts and graphic stripe details androgyny is a major trend, particularly and valleys, infl uenced the asymmetrical from house to hip-hop, which translated in softly tailored suits and coats kept the in the men’s fashion world, and pack sheer pleating under skirts and dresses, to a richness and heightened energy that’s look modern. But again, who doesn’t love a mentality doesn’t seem to suit Oliver. which came sculpted to the body in double- been stilted in seasons past. vintage John McEnroe moment? His boy/girl blur was toned down and faced jersey or silk crepe. Her outerwear The models — more women than men For women, the fi rst looks down the the execution, quality and maturity of — some of it accented with faux fur — — were a tribe of impossibly cool city kids, runway had humor and direction, designed the collection was scaled up. It was an was a highlight, especially the looks with who appropriated their long, oversize in the same vein as the men’s wear with indication of where the future may lie for colorful jewel-embellished sleeves and layers from different subcultures. Their a quirky nod to retro graphics. A loosely an outlier like Oliver. There were real, lapels. The unexpected sparkle added a uniform was a stylish compilation of casual, structured long vest in heather gray worn wearable sartorial moments in men’s, dose glamour to the tough looks without comfort items and rugged performance over a knit minidress looked fresh, as did including a sleek black leather-belted seeming precious. —KRISTI GARCED gear. Robust outerwear — trapeze puffer a sporty red-and-blue striped sweater utility parka with a fur-trimmed hood anoraks and big, boxy shearlings — shaped and pencil skirt combo and a checkered paired with dyed fl y-away jeans. For Moncler Grenoble: This season, Moncler the oversize silhouettes, giving volume tracksuit with a faux-fur cape that followed women, a gauzy, striped apron-halter knit Grenoble focused on what it does and heft to the long, gauzy caftan and the Wes Anderson vibe. From there, the branded with the stark HBA logo worn best: technical, luxe ski outerwear for maxiskirt underlayers for women and the show transitioned into the predictable with extremely wide, club kid pleated men and women that incorporated its gray melange wool parka with black overlay striped tennis skirts and dresses for which pants with utility straps was edgy but also unique interpretations of Mongolian fur, and matching pullover paired with oversize the brand has always been known. relatively cute. Norwegian wool and knits and flannel. In dark denim for men. It wasn’t unisex, — ALEX BADIA AND BOBBI QUEEN The show closed with an enormous, celebration of Valentine’s Day, the brand but much of the pieces were virtually extravagant fur coat wrapped with a logo called the collection “Love Factory,” and interchangeable. There was more color Hood By Air: As one of the guinea pigs of knit band that constricted the arms. It was offered up a recurring red motif with and pattern than ever, with grungy plaids the LVMH Prize, Shayne Oliver is proof luxury but still quite street. Perhaps Oliver Sixties and Seventies love songs playing and a crafty Deco-patterned jacquard used that there’s a before and after. The can have the best of both worlds. — J.I. 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 9 WWD.COM

DKNY Moncler Public Public Lacoste Hood by Air Hood by Air Thakoon Grenoble School School

Lacoste

Hervé Jill Stuart Léger

FALL 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

DKNY: “The New York woman who dresses in the background. Models were posed on on an anorak and poncho, which gave the effects of the 100,000 euros and a year of Thakoon: An offbeat, crafty but polished around in micromini allover-sequined frocks, day to night, who’s illuminated by black moving platforms that lifted them from a lineup a cool, improvisational attitude. But mentorship he won as a recipient of the undercurrent has always coursed through skinny pantsuits, pleather jackets, fur coats, with shots of color and neon lights. larger-than-life, neon-red chocolate box. everything was considered. The Public inaugural special runner-up prize have Thakoon Panichgul’s collections, but in the last and optic prints — all of which Stuart has done The young working woman, the ageless The finale: a bride draped in a quilted School urban nomads are a polished bunch. been apparent in his last two shows, year it feels like he’s converted to bohemianism. before, but this time the message was louder. working woman...” Donna Karan was down gown and a groom in a down tuxedo — JESSICA IREDALE beginning with last month’s outing at This season was particularly rustic. The dominant Case in point: a metallic striped dress that fell rattling off her numerous inspirations adorned with tails. — FREDERICK MARFIL Pitti Uomo as well as Sunday’s fall show. motifs of his fall collection were bouclé stripes to midcalf and featured leg-of-mutton sleeves, after her fall show — all centered around Lacoste: A red tracksuit with the words To the fi rst-time viewer, the latter in shades of rust, brown and bright blue shown which nodded to the late Seventies but was Tim Coppens Tim Coppens her beloved city — a theme underscored Public School: By their own admission, Dao- “René Did It First” printed on the jacket collection probably lived up to the on slim turtlenecks and skirts; hardy, earth-toned delivered in a modern silhouette. by an LCD screen that lit up the runway, Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have spent and matching headband kicked off the reputation for deviant, gender-bending patchwork ombré wool worked on vests and a — MAYTE ALLENDE displaying tweets about what New York the past few seasons — two, plus two pre- men’s offering at Lacoste. Felipe Oliveira street culture extremes Oliver has quickly coat, and homespun macramés. meant to random Twitter users. collections for women — cementing their Baptista, probably trying to state the label’s earned. The models wore pantyhose Embracing the artisanal gave Panichgul Tim Coppens: What’s a designer to do when A men’s wear infl uence ran through the aesthetic code. That meant deliberate colonizing status in light of the current ath- crudely scribbled with eyebrows, a distinctive point of view that was at times mainstream fashion has embraced his original collection via tailored suiting in black, gray repetition, maybe playing it a little safe. leisure trend, presented a collection full of sideburns and facial hair over their uneven in the show. The textures and colors — aesthetic? Let Tim Coppens tell you: “Now, and navy; high-neck ribbed turtlenecks; Now that their point’s across, they’re free Seventies references with an sporty urban faces, obscuring their sex. The men a lot of ruddy browns — of the daywear had a everybody is doing athletic references so I don’t an oversize graphic herringbone coat; and to be more expressive. Chow said the fall style that felt a bit “Royal Tenenbaums,” wearing high-heeled, square-toe platform quirky, if sometimes frumpy textural charm that want to use them anymore. But I can’t step away tapered trousers worn Michael Jackson- collection is “personal,” inspired by his given the nutmeg color in trenches, fur clodhoppers and dresses slit to the crotch evolved in a more elegant, romantic direction completely from the DNA of the brand.” style with white socks and brogues. Karan and Osborne’s time in the early Nineties coats and suits. The use of Art Deco prints had a feminine strut to their step. But for evening. Midnight blue and burgundy took As a result, Coppens injected tailored and said the Manhattan skyline, with its peaks New York club scene as it transitioned in sweatshirts and graphic stripe details androgyny is a major trend, particularly over on a fl oral chiffon V-neck dress trimmed in evening references onto his sporty roots for fall, and valleys, infl uenced the asymmetrical from house to hip-hop, which translated in softly tailored suits and coats kept the in the men’s fashion world, and pack sequin fringe and a tinseled sweater worn over a resulting in a more grown-up, multidimensional sheer pleating under skirts and dresses, to a richness and heightened energy that’s look modern. But again, who doesn’t love a mentality doesn’t seem to suit Oliver. soft printed-chiffon skirt. — J.I. collection. A bonded cashmere camel coat which came sculpted to the body in double- been stilted in seasons past. vintage John McEnroe moment? His boy/girl blur was toned down and with a ribbed bomber collar and zip-on scarf faced jersey or silk crepe. Her outerwear The models — more women than men For women, the fi rst looks down the the execution, quality and maturity of Hervé Léger: To a great extent, the Hervé Léger show epitomized the perfect blend of both worlds. — some of it accented with faux fur — — were a tribe of impossibly cool city kids, runway had humor and direction, designed the collection was scaled up. It was an is a foregone conclusion. The brand is famous for Even the casting was different this season, with was a highlight, especially the looks with who appropriated their long, oversize in the same vein as the men’s wear with indication of where the future may lie for one taught, stretchy thing only: the bandage dress. a rougher feeling that spoke to his inspiration: colorful jewel-embellished sleeves and layers from different subcultures. Their a quirky nod to retro graphics. A loosely an outlier like Oliver. There were real, For fall, the look took a particularly anatomical “Skinheads,” a book by Derek Ridgers. lapels. The unexpected sparkle added a uniform was a stylish compilation of casual, structured long vest in heather gray worn wearable sartorial moments in men’s, form at fi rst, the models encased in futuristic straps “Everything is wearable with an edge,” he said. dose glamour to the tough looks without comfort items and rugged performance over a knit minidress looked fresh, as did including a sleek black leather-belted and panels that pointed out all their most feminine His women’s collection was very much seeming precious. —KRISTI GARCED gear. Robust outerwear — trapeze puffer a sporty red-and-blue striped sweater utility parka with a fur-trimmed hood parts. There were bejeweled styles that brought to in tune with the men’s wear. He showed his anoraks and big, boxy shearlings — shaped and pencil skirt combo and a checkered paired with dyed fl y-away jeans. For mind armor, and others with fl ared skirts printed in signature bomber jackets, nylon and cotton- Moncler Grenoble: This season, Moncler the oversize silhouettes, giving volume tracksuit with a faux-fur cape that followed women, a gauzy, striped apron-halter knit what looked like a tropical Rorschach test. Refi ned coated parkas and a shearling-combo jacket Grenoble focused on what it does and heft to the long, gauzy caftan and the Wes Anderson vibe. From there, the branded with the stark HBA logo worn and innovative, perhaps not, but Max and Lubov that were all perfect for braving the elements. best: technical, luxe ski outerwear for maxiskirt underlayers for women and the show transitioned into the predictable with extremely wide, club kid pleated Azria know what their customer wants. — J.I. The designer also tried his hand at more men and women that incorporated its gray melange wool parka with black overlay striped tennis skirts and dresses for which pants with utility straps was edgy but also feminine pieces, such as a pleated cargo skirt unique interpretations of Mongolian fur, and matching pullover paired with oversize the brand has always been known. relatively cute. Jill Stuart: For fall, Jill Stuart borrowed from and some beautiful knit sweaters with a touch Norwegian wool and knits and flannel. In dark denim for men. It wasn’t unisex, — ALEX BADIA AND BOBBI QUEEN The show closed with an enormous, Sixties Mod, Seventies disco and her vision of a of Swarovski crystal embellishment. Even celebration of Valentine’s Day, the brand but much of the pieces were virtually extravagant fur coat wrapped with a logo young DJ who’s “having a blast, mixes things up though he is offering more tailored pieces, called the collection “Love Factory,” and interchangeable. There was more color Hood By Air: As one of the guinea pigs of knit band that constricted the arms. It was and is fi ercely aware of the world we live in,” this collection proves Coppens hasn’t lost his offered up a recurring red motif with and pattern than ever, with grungy plaids the LVMH Prize, Shayne Oliver is proof luxury but still quite street. Perhaps Oliver said the designer backstage at her show. This connection with youth culture.

Sixties and Seventies love songs playing and a crafty Deco-patterned jacquard used that there’s a before and after. The can have the best of both worlds. — J.I. hipster is sexy and a bit rock ’n’ roll. She strolls — ALEX BADIA AND ANTONIA SARDONE RODIN BANICA;JOHN AQUINO GEORGEPUBLIC SCHOOLCHINSEE; ANDCOPPENS LACOSTEBY BY BY AIR AND THAKOON HOOD BY GIANNONI; MONCLER, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY LÉGER AND STUART DKNY, 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015

See by Chloé: For fall, Clare Waight Keller was inspired by the style of Margot See by Chloé Jonathan Honor Tadashi Shoji Tenenbaum, the quirky character played Simkhai by Gwyneth Paltrow in Wes Anderson’s 2001 cult film “The Royal Tenenbaums.” More broadly, Waight Keller envisioned her See by Chloé girl as a French student at the Sorbonne, spending an afternoon at the library with her girlfriends. Her lineup, consequently, had plenty of collegiate touches and boyish charm à la button-down poplins, pussy-bow blouses, collared dresses and cozy sweaters. Pops of mustard, orange and pink offset the otherwise muted palette, while confetti and garden prints added a touch of feminine whimsy. Standouts included Seventies-style patchwork denim looks and colorful, oversize mohair coats, some adorned with fringe accents. — KRISTI GARCED

Jonathan Simkhai: Fall 2015 marked Jonathan Simkhai’s transition from presentation to runway. “It was all about pushing the pedal to the metal — go hard or go home,” the designer said backstage. And he did. Drawing inspiration from high-adrenaline car racing, tires and the whole competitive nature of the sport, he created head-to- toe looks in intricate lace patterns he called “wire lace,” with a sweatshirt, miniskirt and a cutout minidress and legging combo opening the lineup. Continuing on the transparency ride, he also showed elaborately woven midcalf lace dresses in black or pink, as well as two gowns in metallic embroidery and mesh — the first evening effort for him. On a sportier note, the intarsia knit coat and matching trousers were as effortless as they were chic, proving that no matter which direction Simkhai heads, he is confidently behind the wheel. — MAYTE ALLENDE

Honor: “I was really inspired by the northeast American wilderness,” said Giovanna Randall during a pre-show walk-through of her frothy, jewel-toned collection, adding that she aimed to highlight the beauty in things we might overlook — such as deer, which came alive on several looks via bonded velvet embroidery. Abstract mushrooms were also sequin-embroidered onto airy silk organza dresses, underscoring the not- so-subtle woodlands theme. As a whole, Randall’s looks can skew Ji Oh: With her assertive fourth collection, and skirt, and a long gray swing coat when she started her label she initially divisive; you’re either the kind of girl who Ji Oh was all about making an effortless worn over the simplest ribbed sweater wanted to design only coats. Her fall wants to wear head-to-toe orange — here transition from lounging to working. and cotton maxiskirt. inspirations were personal — Liang was in a long-sleeve pleated bib blouse with “This represents the lifestyle of the The men’s looks were a bit more influenced mostly by where she lives, on a matching maxiskirt — or you’re not. woman I design for,” said Oh, who developed in terms of colors and Manhattan’s Lower East Side, and one But Honor-loving girls will find plenty to divided the set into a chic living room textures. A great cashmere parka with coat was dyed to mimic the coloring of wear in the fall lineup, particularly for and a modern work space. In the former, navy piping was worn over a camouflage her Australian Shepherd dog’s fur. But evening, where the prettiest look was a girls hung out in comfortable yet elegant sweater and burgundy track pants with a the looks had a smart practicality to white satin organza bustier gown with an acid-yellow culottes, cutout sweaters, gray cashmere overlay, while a charcoal- them: “I see my girl taking the subway in embellished sheer overlay. — K.G. polka-dot pajama sets and mohair duster gray jacket with stitching detail and them, going out in them,” she said. coats, while in the office setting men’s matching pants was shown with a red The tight lineup, clearly made with Tadashi Shoji: Tadashi Shoji is known for wear influences kept silhouettes simple: shawl and a denim shirt to chic effect. love, was full of statement-making his dramatic evening gowns and delicate pin-striped maxi coats, pencil skirts, — M.A. looks for cool urbanites — from a black cocktail dresses, and for fall, he did not let boxy shirts and mohair blazers in leather motorcycle jacket with fur down his ladies. Backstage, the designer navy and camel. Cade: Bevin Butler launched sleeves to a puffer coat with a powder- said he was inspired by “the beauty of For evening, the designer Cade last season with the blue Mongolian fur collar. flight,” not only in birds but in aircraft tapped into her own mission to “dress the woman — K.G. as well. This translated into an aerial- interpretation of glamour FALL 2015 who is owning her career.” view jacquard sheath dress, a metallic via a fabulous gold fuzzy A former corporate lawyer, Ryan Roche: Thursday evening’s chill only embroidered cape and an embellished skirt nonchalantly paired she was inspired to design made CFDA runner-up Ryan Roche’s Neoprene top, all with aircraft references, with a black camisole NEW YORK by her own frustration cozy fall collection look that much while the bird motif came across literally — which it was easy to with the lack of stylish better. The designer, who hails from in feather-embroidered gowns. imagine her androgynous, COLLECTIONS options available to women Idaho and has “cowboy dreams,” once — ANTONIA SARDONE antigown muse rocking at a working in a conservative again put a little frontier spirit in her gala. — M.A. environment. season: Long cashmere dusters and a Organic by John Patrick: John Patrick insisted Anchored in tailored shapes range of capes touched on her roots, but that by designing and showing his fall Naadam: “It is about creating that make up office-appropriate were “a little fancier than I’ve ever done collection “without the pressures of a a high-quality product for the men attire, the collection adds a measured before, a bit more refined and tailored,” runway show,” he could work toward the and women who travel, who are amount of interest through volume Roche said, as evidenced by a silk dress “perfection” he desires. In the lineup passionate, who are creative and can and fabric development. A tech taffeta with a flounce. presented in his showroom, “elongating” appreciate the value here,” said former dress can be worn flat and precise or The looks, all styled was key, he explained, with simple venture capitalist Matt Scanlan as he artfully rumpled. Wide-leg pants in monochromatically in neutrals, save for tailored shirts in red, black, white or blue showed Naadam’s first collection for shiny satin have a strong, but not wacky, a pale pink, were ripe with big cozy knits rendered just above the knee or floor fall. Comprising cashmere knitwear architectural line that easily pairs back that came in sweaters, shawls and capes. length. Classic coats in camel or shaggy sustainably sourced from the Bayangovi to sharply tailored jackets and blouses, Long skirts and trousers paired with the gray alpaca were beautifully cut and region of Mongolia, the lineup has a so as not to rock the corporate dress oversize sweaters spoke to the “Nineties shown midcalf over long or cropped pants. casual-luxury aesthetic. For women, code too much — nor the bank account. minimalism of the Margiela-era at But it was the designer’s new “tuxedo there were long, lean cashmere tunic Cade is priced at entry designer, $800 for Hermès,” but really resulted in easy- look” — a svelte, tailored white blazer dresses; a beautiful gray version a dress, $500 for pants. breezy dressing perfect for right now. over a sleeveless gray wool turtleneck featured slits on the side and a mock — JESSICA IREDALE — ROXANNE ROBINSON and full evening skirt with a wide ruffled neck. Other top looks included a hemline in gray silk — that looked military green jacket that appeared to Sandy Liang: Sandy Liang homed in on Isa Arfen: Like a beautiful photograph, freshest. — BOBBI QUEEN be quilted paired with a lean sweater outerwear this season, explaining that Isa Arfen’s fall presentation was 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 11 WWD.COM See by Chloé: For fall, Clare Waight Keller was inspired by the style of Margot See by Chloé Jonathan Honor Tadashi Shoji Organic by John Patrick Ji Oh Naadam Cade Tenenbaum, the quirky character played Simkhai by Gwyneth Paltrow in Wes Anderson’s 2001 cult film “The Royal Tenenbaums.” More broadly, Waight Keller envisioned her See by Chloé girl as a French student at the Sorbonne, spending an afternoon at the library with her girlfriends. Her lineup, consequently, had plenty of collegiate touches and boyish charm à la button-down poplins, pussy-bow blouses, collared dresses and cozy sweaters. Pops of mustard, orange and pink offset the otherwise muted palette, while confetti and garden prints added a touch of feminine whimsy. Standouts included Seventies-style patchwork denim looks and colorful, oversize mohair coats, some adorned with fringe accents. — KRISTI GARCED

Jonathan Simkhai: Fall 2015 marked Jonathan Simkhai’s transition from presentation to runway. “It was all about pushing the pedal to the metal — go hard or go home,” the designer said backstage. And he did. Drawing inspiration from high-adrenaline car racing, tires and the whole competitive nature of the sport, he created head-to- toe looks in intricate lace patterns he called “wire lace,” with a sweatshirt, miniskirt and a cutout minidress and legging combo opening the lineup. Continuing on the transparency Sandy Ryan Isa Arfen ride, he also showed elaborately Liang Roche woven midcalf lace dresses in black or pink, as well as two gowns in metallic embroidery and mesh — the first evening effort for him. On a sportier note, the intarsia knit coat and matching trousers were as effortless as they were chic, proving that no matter which direction Simkhai heads, he is confidently behind the wheel. — MAYTE ALLENDE

Honor: “I was really inspired by the northeast American wilderness,” said Giovanna Randall during a pre-show walk-through of her frothy, jewel-toned collection, adding that she aimed to highlight the beauty in things we might overlook — such as deer, which came alive on several looks via bonded velvet embroidery. Abstract mushrooms were also sequin-embroidered onto airy silk organza dresses, underscoring the not- so-subtle woodlands theme. As a whole, Randall’s looks can skew Ji Oh: With her assertive fourth collection, and skirt, and a long gray swing coat when she started her label she initially inspired and inspiring. London-based Tanya Taylor: Backstage at her show, Tanya divisive; you’re either the kind of girl who Ji Oh was all about making an effortless worn over the simplest ribbed sweater wanted to design only coats. Her fall Serafina Sama, who is originally from Taylor spoke about being inspired by wants to wear head-to-toe orange — here transition from lounging to working. and cotton maxiskirt. inspirations were personal — Liang was Ravenna, Italy, spoke nostalgically an iridescent fish lure. “I was really in a long-sleeve pleated bib blouse with “This represents the lifestyle of the The men’s looks were a bit more influenced mostly by where she lives, on about her teen years, growing up in attracted to its beautiful colors and a matching maxiskirt — or you’re not. woman I design for,” said Oh, who developed in terms of colors and Manhattan’s Lower East Side, and one the Nineties lusting over the pages of texture and to the fact that there is S ERT

But Honor-loving girls will find plenty to divided the set into a chic living room textures. A great cashmere parka with coat was dyed to mimic the coloring of Italian Vogue, as well as her affinity for something functional about it,” she said. A wear in the fall lineup, particularly for and a modern work space. In the former, navy piping was worn over a camouflage her Australian Shepherd dog’s fur. But late-Seventies glamour. On set, these On the runway, she dove into her theme

evening, where the prettiest look was a girls hung out in comfortable yet elegant sweater and burgundy track pants with a the looks had a smart practicality to reflections merged seamlessly. via multiple references, but most literally SOPHIA BY white satin organza bustier gown with an acid-yellow culottes, cutout sweaters, gray cashmere overlay, while a charcoal- them: “I see my girl taking the subway in The Seventies were with holographic fish spine EN embellished sheer overlay. — K.G. polka-dot pajama sets and mohair duster gray jacket with stitching detail and them, going out in them,” she said. interpreted in a modern way FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE prints done in silver over F coats, while in the office setting men’s matching pants was shown with a red The tight lineup, clearly made with via a maroon corduroy suit black on tiered skirts with Lyn Tanya Trina AR Tadashi Shoji: Tadashi Shoji is known for wear influences kept silhouettes simple: shawl and a denim shirt to chic effect. love, was full of statement-making worn with a lacey green shirt matching tops and a short Devon Taylor Turk WWD.com/ HNER; C I his dramatic evening gowns and delicate pin-striped maxi coats, pencil skirts, — M.A. looks for cool urbanites — from a black and a bronze Lurex tunic runway. dress with a sheer insert. E cocktail dresses, and for fall, he did not let boxy shirts and mohair blazers in leather motorcycle jacket with fur shirt and matching midi. But Amplifying the underwater down his ladies. Backstage, the designer navy and camel. Cade: Bevin Butler launched sleeves to a puffer coat with a powder- it was in the sophistication of theme was a great flowy cami said he was inspired by “the beauty of For evening, the designer Cade last season with the blue Mongolian fur collar. the evening looks that Sama excelled: A mididress in a reef print shown flight,” not only in birds but in aircraft tapped into her own mission to “dress the woman — K.G. silver metallic fabric with subtle stripes in contrasting colorways and one in a as well. This translated into an aerial- interpretation of glamour FALL 2015 who is owning her career.” was simply cut into a crewneck top and “fish eye” embroidery worn over a view jacquard sheath dress, a metallic via a fabulous gold fuzzy A former corporate lawyer, Ryan Roche: Thursday evening’s chill only midiskirt; a green oversize plaid shirt scuba turtleneck. embroidered cape and an embellished skirt nonchalantly paired she was inspired to design made CFDA runner-up Ryan Roche’s was chicly paired with a black, mid- On a more terrestrial note, Taylor Neoprene top, all with aircraft references, with a black camisole NEW YORK by her own frustration cozy fall collection look that much length tube skirt with sequined fringe delivered strong outerwear options, while the bird motif came across literally — which it was easy to with the lack of stylish better. The designer, who hails from detail at the hem (a dress version of including a layered camel wool coat and a in feather-embroidered gowns. imagine her androgynous, COLLECTIONS options available to women Idaho and has “cowboy dreams,” once the look was long-sleeved and off the paneled jacket in black with burgundy and I BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; CADE BY STEVE GIANNONI; CADE BY GIOVANNI I BY — ANTONIA SARDONE antigown muse rocking at a working in a conservative again put a little frontier spirit in her shoulder); and a delicate pink satin slip navy. “There is a sense of humor here, a J gala. — M.A. environment. season: Long cashmere dusters and a dress featured a knotted bow on the high lightness — our girl definitely has that and EE; SHO

Organic by John Patrick: John Patrick insisted Anchored in tailored shapes range of capes touched on her roots, but waist — perhaps her purest tribute to the I wanted to let her live it,” she said. — M.A. S that by designing and showing his fall Naadam: “It is about creating that make up office-appropriate were “a little fancier than I’ve ever done Nineties. — M.A. E CHIN collection “without the pressures of a a high-quality product for the men attire, the collection adds a measured before, a bit more refined and tailored,” Trina Turk: Trina Turk cited “multi-culti G runway show,” he could work toward the and women who travel, who are amount of interest through volume Roche said, as evidenced by a silk dress Lyn Devon: Lyn Devon was succinct about San Francisco” in her show notes for “perfection” he desires. In the lineup passionate, who are creative and can and fabric development. A tech taffeta with a flounce. her fall collection: “A concise, practical, fall, and the city’s legendary diversity presented in his showroom, “elongating” appreciate the value here,” said former dress can be worn flat and precise or The looks, all styled dependable wardrobe — useful shone through in multicolor tweeds, lace

was key, he explained, with simple venture capitalist Matt Scanlan as he artfully rumpled. Wide-leg pants in monochromatically in neutrals, save for clothes.” Perhaps those aren’t the graphic geometrics and floral-printed GEOR BY AYLOR T tailored shirts in red, black, white or blue showed Naadam’s first collection for shiny satin have a strong, but not wacky, a pale pink, were ripe with big cozy knits sexiest words, but they do not negate dresses. A retro vibe was also evident

rendered just above the knee or floor fall. Comprising cashmere knitwear architectural line that easily pairs back that came in sweaters, shawls and capes. luxury and finesse, which the lineup via a fuzzy leopard-print top in a Fifties ONOR, length. Classic coats in camel or shaggy sustainably sourced from the Bayangovi to sharply tailored jackets and blouses, Long skirts and trousers paired with the was very much about. Silhouettes silhouette paired with an abstract floral H gray alpaca were beautifully cut and region of Mongolia, the lineup has a so as not to rock the corporate dress oversize sweaters spoke to the “Nineties were lean, layered and spare, allowing pencil skirt, as well as a black jumpsuit QUINO; shown midcalf over long or cropped pants. casual-luxury aesthetic. For women, code too much — nor the bank account. minimalism of the Margiela-era at the colors — paprika, dusty rose, worn under a leopard jacket and a A But it was the designer’s new “tuxedo there were long, lean cashmere tunic Cade is priced at entry designer, $800 for Hermès,” but really resulted in easy- burgundy — to do the talking. One of very Sixties graphic maxi tunic. The look” — a svelte, tailored white blazer dresses; a beautiful gray version a dress, $500 for pants. breezy dressing perfect for right now. the best looks was a pale blue and ivory collection also featured great outerwear over a sleeveless gray wool turtleneck featured slits on the side and a mock — JESSICA IREDALE — ROXANNE ROBINSON collarless jacquard coat over a clingy options in everything from tweeds with and full evening skirt with a wide ruffled neck. Other top looks included a charcoal cashmere ribbed turtleneck faux-fur collars to oversize green plaid hemline in gray silk — that looked military green jacket that appeared to Sandy Liang: Sandy Liang homed in on Isa Arfen: Like a beautiful photograph, and skirt combo, which is having a coats and a multicolor faux fur jacket.

freshest. — BOBBI QUEEN be quilted paired with a lean sweater outerwear this season, explaining that Isa Arfen’s fall presentation was moment this season. — J.I. — M.A. JOHN SIMKHAI PHOTO BY Congratulations on the National Magazine Award. Best in the Business for Print, Digital, and Events.

MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

ONLY AT VOGUE • VANITY FAIR • GLAMOUR • BRIDES • SELF • GQ • THE NEW YORKER • CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER • DETAILS • ALLURE • ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST BON APPÉTIT • EPICURIOUS • WIRED • W • STYLE.COM • GOLF DIGEST • GOLF WORLD • TEEN VOGUE • ARS TECHNICA • CNÉ • THE SCENE Congratulations on the National Magazine Award. Best in the Business for Print, Digital, and Events.

MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

ONLY AT VOGUE •• VANITY FAIR • GLAMOUR • BRIDES •• SELF • GQ • THE NEW YORKER •• CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER •• DETAILS • ALLURE • ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST BON APPÉTIT •• EPICURIOUS • WIRED • W •• STYLE.COM •• GOLF DIGEST • GOLF WORLD • TEEN VOGUE •• ARS TECHNICA • CNÉ •• THE SCENE 14 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015

Tome Tibi Mara Hoffman Suno Robert Geller ANICA B ODIN EE BY R EE BY L QUINO; A N H EID BY JO EID BY R RA; T I M

T OBER R UBLIC BY UBLIC BY P E R ANANA B ONOO AND N EE; SUNO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; GIOVANNI EE; SUNO BY S IN CH E G ANNACCONE; HOFFMAN AND GELLAR BY GEOR ANNACCONE; HOFFMAN AND GELLARBY I

S OMA H T BY S O T O OIR PH N OON BY OON BY N TOME, TIBI AND

Tome: “The inspiration came last designer said before the FALL 2015 collection: Bertha from expect from Geller was still present, summer when Ryan [Lobo] and I went to show, as she pointed to a “Jane Eyre,” whose but the two different stories diluted the see Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker,” said new version of skinny-fit Jamaican heritage was message. —ALEX BADIA Ramon Martin, half of Tome’s design flared pants, styled with NEW YORK a convenient foil for team, backstage before the show. For slides and fur-covered flats. COLLECTIONS the label’s identity of Misha Nonoo: The elegant atmosphere, the uninitiated, De Keersmaeker is a Culottes were the other boisterous indigenous underscored by a live performance by Belgian dance icon, and the duo drew pant silhouette of the season prints and patterns, chamber ensemble Decoda, of Misha from the geometry and mathematics — done in denim, wool and shown here in primary, Nonoo’s fall runway show didn’t fully of her choreography with a series jersey in varying color patterns — Rasta-esqe color combos. The resonate in the clothes. Tailoring and of delicate striped shirtdresses that worn with off-the-shoulder knits and designers wanted to illustrated some nice knits gave the impression became bolder as the lineup evolved, oversize shearling and mohair outerwear. Bertha’s “descent into madness” with of refined creativity designed for the morphing into graphic stripes of In neutral tones as well as burgundy, wacky details — mainly skirts layered “modern collector” Nonoo was striving black ribbon and then animal prints. powder blue, lilac and navy, Smilovic’s with long fringe panels — then they for, but her artistic details — improbably (Another fall muse: Donna Karan, whose collection, including a few pared-down tranquilized the look with austere elongated sleeves, embroidered influence on the lineup could be seen evening options, bore a restrained tailoring and controlled silhouettes to scribbles inspired by Tracey Emin’s mostly in a few drapy black dresses.) and casual elegance, with some looks illustrate Bertha’s cold, hard English work and liquid-silver turtlenecks — felt Lobo and Martin worked accents of reminiscent of The Row. — K.G. reality. Plain lines and an abundance cumbersome, as did many of the fits. — J.I. black and metallic foiled lace through of sober gray and black wool brought the collection, which added depth and Mara Hoffman: Mara Hoffman got a refinement to the bolder effects, but CG: For his fourth collection, Chris visual interest to the crisp, chic dresses philosophical about our planet (and it felt sedated. Colorful details are the Gelinas thought about the “dignity in and separates. Elsewhere, synthetic others) for fall, opening her show with brand’s character. — JESSICA IREDALE work” and the American Dream. Taking fabrics — there was some plastic in the theme song to “Star Wars” as a cues from tailored men’s suits and the skirts and cropped jackets, and prelude to Tatooine-inspired looks: a Robert Geller: There were two separate masculine conventions of the business an oversize pink coat in faux fur — crème tweed cross-fronted jumpsuit stories at Robert Geller’s fall show. set, he offered ladies quintessential conveyed a bit of whimsy, as did the and an apron dress version worn over The first centered around a 1920s pieces to succeed in the boardroom. An colorful pumps, a collaboration with a white turtleneck. Colorful printed gentleman, full of rounded-shoulder, impeccable gray wool knee-length coat Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP footwear geometrics, which she has become softly constructed coats and high- worn over a pink silk turtleneck and a collection. “There’s a little bit of a known for, also made an appearance, waisted pants, some of them with lightweight wool, cropped pantsuit in plastic-y, synthetic feeling, which is nice, most memorably on a chiffon maxi suspenders. The second story was full gray plaid set the tone. because it breaks the sensuality a bit,” shirtdress. And of course, it’s not a of athletic references, such as striped “I really thought about how women Martin said. — KRISTI GARCED “Star Wars” theme if there’s no Princess sweatpants, oversize T-shirts and even a wore clothes and how busy they are,” Leia; interpretations of her coiled cropped bomber. Gelinas said. “It was important for me Tibi: Amy Smilovic’s jumping off point braids were the perfect complement There were definitely good moments to understand my client and give her for her fall collection for Tibi was Inuit to Hoffman’s “study of civilization and — a silky striped robe worn as a coat what she needs.” By the looks of it, she culture, and more broadly, the idea of wilderness.” — MAYTE ALLENDE over a matching lounge shirt and scarf, needs to play, too. Shift dresses in velvet creating warmth in a range of colors and as well as a gray flannel suit with Neoprene and flounce skirts paired with textures. “There are a lot of long, lean Suno: A literary reference guided cropped pants. The melancholy and striped V-neck sweaters did that job silhouettes mixed with coziness,” the Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis’ fall romantic feeling that we’ve come to pretty well. — M.A. 14 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 15 WWD.COM

Tome Tibi Mara Hoffman Suno Robert Misha Nonoo CG Noon Charlotte Billy Geller By Ronson Reid

ANICA Noor B ODIN EE BY R EE BY L QUINO; A N H EID BY JO EID BY R RA; T I M

T OBER R UBLIC BY UBLIC BY P E R ANANA B ONOO AND N

Dion Babyghost Lee EE; SUNO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; GIOVANNI EE; SUNO BY S IN CH E G ANNACCONE; HOFFMAN AND GELLAR BY GEOR ANNACCONE; HOFFMAN AND GELLARBY I

S OMA H T BY S O T O OIR PH

N FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE OON BY OON BY

N WWD.com/ runway. Banana Banana Republic Republic TOME, TIBI AND

Tome: “The inspiration came last designer said before the FALL 2015 collection: Bertha from expect from Geller was still present, Noon by Noor: This season designers non-traditional ways. For example, the attention to detail. fuss about.” summer when Ryan [Lobo] and I went to show, as she pointed to a “Jane Eyre,” whose but the two different stories diluted the Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha superwide-wale corduroy was used for For women, some looks read boyish, Bomber jackets in satin and leather, see Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker,” said new version of skinny-fit Jamaican heritage was message. —ALEX BADIA Haya Al Khalifa said they were both pants and jackets and cashmere including an oversize boyfriend coat as well as a boyish teal mohair coat, Ramon Martin, half of Tome’s design flared pants, styled with NEW YORK a convenient foil for continuing their minimalistic journey was employed in a luxurious two-tone in camel layered atop a matching added a tougher edge to the looks, and team, backstage before the show. For slides and fur-covered flats. COLLECTIONS the label’s identity of Misha Nonoo: The elegant atmosphere, with oversize shapes, clean lines and basket weave sweater. “It all starts sweater and printed dress, and great Lee also made a strong case for another the uninitiated, De Keersmaeker is a Culottes were the other boisterous indigenous underscored by a live performance by unique textiles — but there was nothing with fabric development,” Reid said. flared cropped jeans worn with a gray type of outerwear: the quilted down Belgian dance icon, and the duo drew pant silhouette of the season prints and patterns, chamber ensemble Decoda, of Misha minimal about this collection. In a nod Pattern and texture also played a boyfriend blazer and matching sweater. jacket. Why not throw a satin puffer over from the geometry and mathematics — done in denim, wool and shown here in primary, Nonoo’s fall runway show didn’t fully to futurism tinged by nostalgia for the role. The designer used a bird print Others leaned toward the girlier end of an evening gown? of her choreography with a series jersey in varying color patterns — Rasta-esqe color combos. The resonate in the clothes. Tailoring and Sixties, the cousins presented foiled- in several pieces, including a blown- the spectrum, such as a red long-sleeve — K.G. of delicate striped shirtdresses that worn with off-the-shoulder knits and designers wanted to illustrated some nice knits gave the impression mesh trapeze coats, a polyurethane out hawk eye on a sweater and an all- T and swing-skirt set, a burgundy suit became bolder as the lineup evolved, oversize shearling and mohair outerwear. Bertha’s “descent into madness” with of refined creativity designed for the grid shirtdress, a silver lamé skirt and over print on an overcoat. Cashmere with skinny pants and leather shell, and Babyghost: They may have 10 seasons morphing into graphic stripes of In neutral tones as well as burgundy, wacky details — mainly skirts layered “modern collector” Nonoo was striving a bronze leather bomber. It was all pleated pants were so soft they had a punchy hot-pink T-shirt dress worn under their belt, but this was the first black ribbon and then animal prints. powder blue, lilac and navy, Smilovic’s with long fringe panels — then they for, but her artistic details — improbably very techy, softened here and there by “a liquid feel,” Reid said. He also over a gray turtleneck. time Qiaoran Huang and Josh Hupper (Another fall muse: Donna Karan, whose collection, including a few pared-down tranquilized the look with austere elongated sleeves, embroidered flourishes of femininity via butterfly showed wool and silk jacquard pants The men’s offerings included a held a formal presentation for their influence on the lineup could be seen evening options, bore a restrained tailoring and controlled silhouettes to scribbles inspired by Tracey Emin’s prints on blouses and dresses and floral with a long leaf pine print, a cracked burgundy jacket with plaid lining paired Babyghost collection. According to mostly in a few drapy black dresses.) and casual elegance, with some looks illustrate Bertha’s cold, hard English work and liquid-silver turtlenecks — felt embroideries on evening looks. leather shearling jacket and a two-tone with a charcoal turtleneck and pants, a Hupper, the duo were inspired by Lobo and Martin worked accents of reminiscent of The Row. — K.G. reality. Plain lines and an abundance cumbersome, as did many of the fits. — J.I. — ANTONIA SARDONE herringbone topcoat. chic cable-knit sweater, a camel sport Elizabeth Home, an 18th-century black and metallic foiled lace through of sober gray and black wool brought Although some of the looks were coat with gray detail, and a puffy navy countess nicknamed “the queen of the collection, which added depth and Mara Hoffman: Mara Hoffman got a refinement to the bolder effects, but CG: For his fourth collection, Chris Charlotte Ronson: Charlotte Ronson a little heavy, silhouettes were more jacket with a faux-fur hoodie. — M.A. hell,” and her London home, which visual interest to the crisp, chic dresses philosophical about our planet (and it felt sedated. Colorful details are the Gelinas thought about the “dignity in knows what her girls want and for fall relaxed this season, as evidenced by the even today has the one of the city’s and separates. Elsewhere, synthetic others) for fall, opening her show with brand’s character. — JESSICA IREDALE work” and the American Dream. Taking she delivered. Inspired by an urban roomy cotton canvas utility pants, full Dion Lee: Restrained elegance with finest interiors. They also looked to fabrics — there was some plastic in the theme song to “Star Wars” as a cues from tailored men’s suits and garden, the designer showed a playful trenchcoat and braided wool cape. The sophisticated sex appeal: That summed hotel decor around the world. the skirts and cropped jackets, and prelude to Tatooine-inspired looks: a Robert Geller: There were two separate masculine conventions of the business and at times flirty collection that same held true of the tailored pieces up Dion Lee’s fall lineup, which started The designers played with rug an oversize pink coat in faux fur — crème tweed cross-fronted jumpsuit stories at Robert Geller’s fall show. set, he offered ladies quintessential touched on bohemian with military that Reid described as “a little more with a series of creamy winter whites — patterns and wallpaper motifs, but conveyed a bit of whimsy, as did the and an apron dress version worn over The first centered around a 1920s pieces to succeed in the boardroom. An influences. Oversize florals and granite boxy — a bit of a David Byrne moment.” seen in sheer silk blouses, ribbed knits in a modern and streetwear-savvy colorful pumps, a collaboration with a white turtleneck. Colorful printed gentleman, full of rounded-shoulder, impeccable gray wool knee-length coat prints made their way onto sheer tops — JEAN E. PALMIERI and fluid skirts — and then progressed way. An embroidered tapestry skirt Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP footwear geometrics, which she has become softly constructed coats and high- worn over a pink silk turtleneck and a and tailored trousers that had a late- into a palette of teal, black and inky blue was paired with a chunky cable- collection. “There’s a little bit of a known for, also made an appearance, waisted pants, some of them with lightweight wool, cropped pantsuit in Sixties sportswear reference. Ronson Banana Republic: Marissa Webb has infused cocktail numbers and tailored separates, knit sweater, a lace gown was worn plastic-y, synthetic feeling, which is nice, most memorably on a chiffon maxi suspenders. The second story was full gray plaid set the tone. also showed cropped military jackets Banana Republic with new energy since many featuring “sliced” cutout effects over a floral garden-print slip, and a because it breaks the sensuality a bit,” shirtdress. And of course, it’s not a of athletic references, such as striped “I really thought about how women and short, boxy knit sweaters that her summer debut — and for fall, she and laser-cut leather overlays. camo-lacquered bomber jacket was Martin said. — KRISTI GARCED “Star Wars” theme if there’s no Princess sweatpants, oversize T-shirts and even a wore clothes and how busy they are,” struck the right balance between basic pushed it even further. “Last time I came The press notes cited words like paired with a silk chiffon skirt — a Leia; interpretations of her coiled cropped bomber. Gelinas said. “It was important for me and refined. —A.S. in and part of the collection was done, “silence,” “noise,” “puncture” and bit of grit meets glamour. One look Tibi: Amy Smilovic’s jumping off point braids were the perfect complement There were definitely good moments to understand my client and give her but this time I was there from concept “reduce.” Lee explained backstage: “I was even inspired by the carpet from for her fall collection for Tibi was Inuit to Hoffman’s “study of civilization and — a silky striped robe worn as a coat what she needs.” By the looks of it, she Billy Reid: Billy Reid’s love and to final product,” the designer said. Her was looking at evening silhouettes, but “The Shining,” its zippers dangling culture, and more broadly, the idea of wilderness.” — MAYTE ALLENDE over a matching lounge shirt and scarf, needs to play, too. Shift dresses in velvet knowledge of fabric took center hand was evident in the mixed feminine- in a way that felt approachable and with keys, while other coats had the creating warmth in a range of colors and as well as a gray flannel suit with Neoprene and flounce skirts paired with stage in his fall show, with the masculine vibe, the neutral grounding relevant to the way women approach zipper hardware as well as pockets textures. “There are a lot of long, lean Suno: A literary reference guided cropped pants. The melancholy and striped V-neck sweaters did that job Alabama-based designer using palette with pops of unexpected colors evening these days — very casually. embroidered with hotel room silhouettes mixed with coziness,” the Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis’ fall romantic feeling that we’ve come to pretty well. — M.A. traditional materials in innovative, — in this case, hot pink and reds — and It’s something that you don’t want to numbers. — A.S.

18 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 WWD.COM

Eddie Borgo Introduces Handbags

looking at this idea of a modern work- will even come from Italy-bred cows. By LAUREN MCCARTHY ing woman and everything that she “The fi nish on the bags is very smooth needs in her handbag.” because the cows are treated so well,” NEW YORK — Eddie Borgo is getting The fi nal product arrives just under said Borgo. “They don’t have bugs eating into the handbag game. two years after the project was initially their skin, which is why you’ll see bumps For fall, the jewelry designer will suggested to Borgo by Maureen Chiquet, on leather. “ ’’ enter his second category with a full global chief executive offi cer of Chanel ’’ Price points for the collection range collection inspired by the geometry and Borgo’s former mentor in the CFDA/ from $650 to $3,190. Though the collec- and function of pocketbook silhouettes Vogue Fashion Fund. “Once the oppor- tion won’t make its offi cial debut until from the Fifties and Sixties, with a nod tunity was brought to me, I couldn’t let Feb. 21, with a private sale in London to the innovations of the Industrial it go,” said Borgo. Through Chiquet, cohosted by Moda Operandi and revolution. “The Industrial revolution Borgo met with Dirk Bosteels, a hand- Lauren Santo Domingo, Borgo has is something we always look at with bag veteran who has worked with Karl quietly shown the pieces to buy- jewelry and reexamining the beautiful Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix and Sonia ers over the past few weeks, and products that came out of that time,” Rykiel in various sales and design roles. already secured distribution Borgo has since appointed Bosteels as in a number of doors, includ- chief operating offi cer of his company’s ing The Webster in Miami, newly created leather goods division, Maxfi eld in Los Angeles, Jeffrey with Sapna Shah acting as design direc- in New York and Atlanta, Forty Five tor. Borgo noted that his current employ- Ten in Dallas and Colette in Paris. The ees would now split their time evenly designer noted that handbag projections between jewelry and handbags. are at double- and triple-digit increased The collection consists of seven styles, done in rubber coated and latex fi nished leather and high-grade Vachetta, with muted colors of jet The functionality was a huge problem, black, evergreen, bush and “frost,” a subtle gray-purple. To keep weight down, Borgo used aluminum in so we were looking at this idea of a modern the bags’ hardware rather than the traditional brass or white metal. working woman and everything that Silhouettes include carry-all bags such as Colt, a day bag with a metal she needs in her handbag. slatted fl ap, and Dean, a doctor bag- inspired splint-handled case, as well — EDDIE BORGO as variations of the clutch, seen in the Boyd, a handbag with rotating metal arc handle. Other styles enter a specifics, Borgo employed extensive growth for 2015 (comparatively, jewelry category of their own: the Vic, a caged usage of 3-D printing, going so far as to sales are up 47 percent year over year). metal minaudiere carried in a remov- attend a number of tech-based seminars With two categories to his name now, able leather crossbody sleeve, and the to learn more about the technique. “We Borgo suggested that it might only be a Here and left: Items from the collection. Lou, a sculpted metal compact. produced all of the metal work in New matter of time until he enters the brick Function is the main thread through- York, and then created 3-D renderings and mortar space with his own store. Borgo said. “In my research, I heard out the collection, with interior pockets of it that were fed into a machine that “It’s come up in conversation,” he said. all of my friends bitching about things designated for specifi c needs: lipstick hand cuts all of the designs out of alumi- “We now have a product offering that that weren’t working with their bags — tubes, cell phones, metro cards, et al. num,” he explained. While initial metal could fi t a small store. Next steps for us they’re too heavy, they can’t fi t anything, Each construction detail — particularly designs were fi nalized in New York by would be a space in New York, and the they don’t open correctly. The function- the metal hardware — serves its own Borgo himself, the fi nal product will be launch of fi ne jewelry, which we’re hop- ality was a huge problem, so we were specific purpose. To work out these fully produced in Italy; the leather itself ing to have for ’’the end of 2016.” A First Look: H&M, Coachella Labor Sec. Enters Port Talks WWD GOT A preview of Juanita Duggan, president and some of the looks set to By KRISTI ELLIS chief executive offi cer of the American EXCLUSIVE roll out next month as Apparel & Footwear Association, said part of the H&M Loves WASHINGTON — The White House has sending the U.S. Labor Secretary to Coachella collection. dispatched Labor Secretary Tom Perez help broker an agreement in the West The cobranded line of to California to help mediate between Coast port contract negotiations was a men’s and women’s mer- unionized dockworkers and cargo carri- “positive step toward ending the logjam. chandise marks a fi rst for ers and terminal operators deadlocked “By sending the Secretary of Labor the Swedish-based re- over a new labor contract that has tem- to intervene, the administration is tailer and the Coachella porarily shut down West Coast ports over sending a strong signal that this is a se- Valley Music and Arts the holiday weekend and caused severe rious issue with real economic conse- Festival. This is H&M’s delays and slowdowns for months. quences that needs to be resolved, and sixth year as a sponsor of “The negotiations over the function- resolved quickly,” Duggan said. “The the festival, which is held ing of the West Coast Ports have been unending port dispute has caused se- in Indio, Calif. taking place for months with the admin- vere disruption across the 29 West The collection, priced istration urging the parties to resolve Coast ports at a very steep cost to our at retail from $4.95 to their differences,” said Eric Schultz, industry and the U.S. economy as a $49.95, debuts March 19 White House deputy press secretary. whole. Through these ports, over half in 350 stores in North “Out of concern for the economic conse- of all clothing and shoes sold in the America. It becomes quences of further delay, the President U.S. is imported.” available globally and has directed his Secretary of Labor Tom The PMA and ILWU have been ne- online starting March 26. Perez travel to California to meet with gotiating a new contract for over nine Exclusive items will also the parties to urge them to resolve their months and the delay in reaching a new be sold at a pop-up shop dispute quickly at the bargaining table.” contract has already had an adverse in the H&M tent during Schultz said Perez has already been economic impact on businesses and the festival, which runs in contact with the Pacific Maritime farmers across the country. April 10 to 12 and 17 to 19. Association, which represents 72 multi- The impasse also drew scrutiny on “The H&M Loves national cargo carriers and terminal op- Capitol Hill in recent days. Lawmakers, Coachella Collection re- erators and the International Longshore who have held hearings and press con- ally brings to life the spirit and Warehouse Union, which repre- ferences, introduced a resolution in the of the festi- sents 20,000 dockworkers, and will keep House of Representatives on Thursday, FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE val, whether President Obama fully updated. calling on both sides to act swiftly to re- you’re there “We welcome the administration’s at- solve their differences. Many lawmak- WWD.com/ or some- tention to this important national and in- ers also called on President Obama to retail-news. where else ternational economic and supply chain use personal diplomacy to urge the two around the issue and hope it recommits the two sides to reach an agreement. world,” said sides to reaching a deal,” said Jonathan The congestion and delays intensi- Ann-Sofi e Johansson, head Gold, vice president for supply chain at fi ed at West Coast ports on Friday as the Looks from H&M of design and new develop- the National Retail Federation. “The line of ships waiting for berths contin- Loves Coachella. ment at H&M. slowdowns, congestion and suspensions ued to grow amid a four-day suspension — KARI HAMANAKA at the West Coast ports need to end now.” ordered by the PMA.

20 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 Chow Tai Fook’s gold The Atelier pendant. Swarovski Viktor & Rolf 2015 Spending: Anything but Sheepish choker. {Continued from page one} stores continue to experience double- Ashley Micklewright, ceo of Bluebell sales to grow 8 percent this year — a digit and high-triple-digit sales growth Group, which markets and distributes more-cautious forecast than that of pre- versus the year before despite the dis- luxury brands in Asia, said he expects vious seasons. ruptions of the pro-democracy protests Chinese New Year sales in Hong Kong to Luxury for The association said retail sales slowed in Hong Kong and a slowdown in the be “at best fl at,” with more Chinese trav- in 2014 as mainland visitors spent less, growth of the Chinese luxury market. eling to Europe, South Korea and Japan. and it will be diffi cult to regain the double- “We expect this positive growth over “During the Chinese New Year, zodi- The New Year digit sales growth seen from 2010 to 2013. last year to continue through Chinese ac gold products and various gold items Retailers have been slashing prices or New Year,” he said. are most popular as Chinese like to buy By ELLEN SHENG launching special sales promotions earlier At the same time, shoppers are travel- these products symbolizing abundance, in the season, the association added. ing further afi eld. According to Global Blue, luck and joy. HONG KONG — Chinese New Even with a slowdown, 8 percent a tourism shopping tax-refund company Back on the mainland, heavily re- Year, one of the biggest shopping growth remains strong on a global basis. headquartered in Switzerland, China was gionalized consumer trends are emerg- periods of the year in Asia, begins “As the Year of the Sheep approaches, the biggest-spending nationality in 2013, ac- ing. Meimei Ding, ceo at DFO, a retail this week, and it’s standard prac- it seems that retailers are set for a strong counting for 27 percent of tax-free spending. consultancy and buying offi ce based in tice for brands and retailers to roll period of New Year consumption,” said Jon “Luxury fi rms in Europe and North Shanghai, said some of her mainland re- out special goods to commemorate Copestake, chief retail and consumer goods America have increasingly tailored their tail partners sell more in the one-week the occasion. analyst at The Economist Intelligence Unit. offerings to accommodate retail tourism holiday period than in three months total. According to the Chinese zo- “Despite softening demand in China, retail from the mainland. Meanwhile, with the “In Southern and Central China diac, 2015 is the year of the sheep, growth is still leading much of the rest of (Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Hangzhou), where goat or ram; it’s slightly open to in- the world and, if the record-breaking sales people have white-collar jobs and regular terpretation. Here, a selection of enjoyed by Singles’ Day are anything to go salaries, shoppers are looking for bargains some of the more interesting prod- by, this crucial shopping period looks likely and value discounts; because of this, dis- ucts, some animal-inspired: to see further gains.” counted items from the [previous] autumn/ ■ Chow Tai Fook has introduced Following China’s Singles’ Day on Nov. winter collections tend to sell well. In the a whole series of special gold pen- 11, e-commerce giant Alibaba Group report- big Western cities (Chongqing, Chengdu), you dants and decorative items for the ed more than $9 billion in sales, highlighting have high concentrations of rich, second- New Year, including a Sheep of the importance of romance in the retail cal- generation kids spending lavishly on fash- Glory pendant. Made of pure gold, endar. Last year’s spring holiday sales fi g- ion. Their priority is to look glamorous and the sheep’s body resembles “auspi- ures reported by the offi cial Xinhua News unique — they want the newest and most cious clouds” and includes pearls Agency, citing the Ministry of Commerce, re- different clothes, so they care less about dis- inside. The pendant starts at 3,800 vealed China’s retail and catering sales rose counts. They tend to buy from the forthcom- Hong Kong dollars, or $490. to $101 billion during the seven-day period, ing spring/summer collections,” Ding said. ■ Lane Crawford teamed with 13.3 percent higher than in 2013. Maureen Fung, general manager at French luxury brand Élégame For the luxury sector, the upcoming Sun Hung Kai Properties, expects double- to present handcrafted jewelry. season offers a unique opportunity. digit growth in sales and footfall at the Customers bring a photo or take a “Luxury fi rms in particular will be high-end Shanghai offerings. To capital- photo on-site to create a personal- ramping up their marketing efforts to ize on the rush of seasonal bargain hunt- ized 3-D gold fi gurine or inscribed capitalize on a rare occasion where gift- ers, the company is offering redemptions medal. Prices for the service range ing is socially acceptable in the current schemes at its IAPM and IFC malls, for from 140,000 to 250,000 Hong Kong anticorruption climate,” Copestake said. example, allowing shoppers to claim a dollars, or $18,052 to $32,236. Many shoppers will travel to buy Shoppers inside Shanghai’s IAPM mall. Marie Desbons limited-edition chocolate ■ Davidoff created an oversize luxury goods, and tourism continues to music box with certain purchases. Limoge-porcelain ashtray to cel- characterize the season, underpinned by Occupy [Central] movement coming to For e-commerce players, the picture is ebrate the new year. Decorated newly urbanized families going on short an end in Hong Kong, fi rms there such as slightly different. Seasonal trends during with 12 percent gold, the designs breaks, even if just for a day. Burberry, who may have seen declines in the New Year period are much more in line around the edge of the plate are “With a strong foundation in tourism, October or November, will be keen to re- with those present throughout the year. meant to evoke sheep horns. It’s Suzhou Village is proving to be a key des- establish any lost footfall,” Copestake said. “Based on current trends, we expect being sold in stores throughout tination for the high-spending Chinese According to Ctrip, a mainland-fo- that for this January to February period, Asia and retails at 4,780 Hong customer during all holiday periods,” cused travel agency, Bangkok and Seoul we will see triple-digit growth versus Kong dollars, or $616. said Mark Israel, chief executive at Value have overtaken Hong Kong as the two the same period in 2014,” said Thibault ■ J. Crew is giving out special ewe- Retail Management China, developers of most-popular New Year’s destinations Villet, ceo of Glamour Sales, a private themed ceramic trays to members Suzhou Village, a luxury discount mall 50 for Chinese tourists this year, with Taipei sales e-commerce company with more of the J. Crew Loyalty program miles west of Shanghai. “As such, we are and Singapore coming in fourth and fi fth than 4 million registered users. and select customers. very confi dent for this upcoming Chinese place, respectively. The ceo cited watches and jewelry ■ Swarovski is playing up New Year period and expect signifi cant “Thailand has become the most-pop- as one of the company’s top-performing some of its red jewelry pieces visitation and spend over the holiday. ular destination as Chinese tourists do categories, with the average customer for the holiday season. This “While the growth rate of the market not need to pay visa fees anymore, and spend valued at $240 to $325, an in- Atelier Swarovski Viktor & overall has slowed, there is still signifi - the political situation [in Thailand] has crease of 25 percent from last year. Rolf rock chandelier choker, cant growth at the individual brand and become more stable since last year,” said Home decor and lifestyle are also featuring fl ocking and highly category level,” Israel said. “Handbags, William George, a Ctrip representative. star performers. “[This year] custom- polished crystals, is part of the accessories and small leather goods from In addition to East and Southeast Asian ers are looking for more deco- brand’s spring 2015 col- luxury and premium brands are as popu- countries, increasing numbers of Chinese rated items. Utilitarian and lection. It sells for lar as ever at Suzhou Village. Furthermore, tourists are traveling to European and functional products are giving 15,200 Hong Kong dol- niche or emerging brands will have greater Middle Eastern countries. This Spring way to products that combine lars, or $1,960. chances to succeed in China as we are see- Festival, the United States ranks fi fth in the design and functionality, which ■ Moynat’s mini vanity, ing our high-end customers becoming more outbound list; Australia is ranked seventh, fi ts into a broader trend of our A mini here in a festive red, willing to try out and experiment with and the United Arab Emirates is 10th, mak- customers becoming more so- vanity by retails for 27,400 Hong brands they hadn’t purchased before.” ing the top 10 for the fi rst time. The three phisticated,” Villet said. Moynat. Kong dollars, or $3,532. Andrew Keith, president of Lane most-popular European countries are still — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Crawford, said the luxury retailer’s Italy (12th), the U.K. (14th) and France (15th). FROM ELLEN SHENG, HONG KONG

larger space in New York is in the works, and Miami is an op- Moda Operandi Raises $60 Million Series E Round tion as well. total overhaul of its technology, The site has an average order coming back is the most valu- Customer acquisition is an- By RACHEL STRUGATZ from the front and back end. value of around $1,700 for its able, the most engaged and has other area where the company The site will be relaunched this trunk show and in-season bou- the largest amount of transac- will focus, according to Santo THE INTERNET AGE has bred spring, and proprietary software tique business, but that number tions,” Santo Domingo said. Domingo. Moda is partnering some really high spenders — and that will help the e-tailer’s per- rises to $4,000 to $7,000 an order She acknowledged that the with Accordant Media to attract a Moda Operandi just raised an- sonal stylists and VIP loyalty specifi cally for trunk shows, ac- business now exists offl ine in a customer who might be interest- other $60 million to service them. program is in the works, said cording to Santo Domingo. For real way — and this is a sector ed in its high-priced, runway-to- The round was led by Lauren Santo Domingo, co- the site’s “retained customer,” or of the business that will contin- immediate-purchase e-commerce Fidelity with participation from founder of Moda Operandi. one who has been shopping with ue to expand. model. In broad strokes, she ex- existing shareholders includ- Her goal is to create the most it for more than three years, the Moda put roots down in plained, Accordant’s technology ing New Enterprise Associates high-end retail experience out average order value ranges be- London in September — a gated will target and track the potential and Advance Publications Inc., there, even as the competition tween $5,000 and $7,000. space in Belgravia that doubles customer during her online jour- the parent company of Condé in online designer shopping gets These numbers remain con- as a showroom and event space ney, versus following the publish- Nast. This follows a more than ever more intense with the likes sistent no matter where the cus- — and met sales goals for the er, the typical acquisition route. $20 million Series D round that of Mytheresa.com, now owned by tomer is shopping — whether fourth quarter within seven days. “We cannot rely on the usual closed in December of 2013, Neiman Marcus Group, and Net- on a computer at work or via The next place the e-tailer will chains that people do to get bringing the total amount raised a-porter.com also aiming to raise Moda’s app, which launched set up shop is Hong Kong, likely their customer, because ours to more than $130 million. their games. In addition to the in February 2014 and received early next year, and the team is are quite specifi c. They can’t be The luxury e-commerce site obvious — product — this means nearly one million downloads in looking at the Middle East (a trip marketed to in ways that exist turns four years old this month, providing optimal customer ser- the fi rst season. is planned in April to learn about currently,” Santo Domingo said, and it’s gearing up for serious vice and a platform that puts the Improving the mobile experi- the retail scene there). The open- acknowledging that acquiring growth mode, starting with a focus back on the designers. ence is key, because “the person ing of a second and signifi cantly this woman “comes at a price.” WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 21 WWD.COM

Digital at #NYFW: The Buzz Wears Off {Continued from page one} This is becoming the normal cycle: video sharing platform said brands, de- Designers this fashion week are forgoing There are a few seasons of fast innova-

signers and media are hiring hundreds of big digital displays, such as Ralph Lauren’s tion, then the fashion world seems to their own Instagrammers. 4-D projection and Diane von Furstenberg’s pause to consolidate the innovations Kristen Joy Watts, Instagram commu- collaboration with Google Glass, shown below. and determine which ones drive a re- nity lead for fashion, said “the next big turn on investment — and then on to the thing” in digital is happening right now next wave. and doesn’t rely on one fl ashy initiative. Ralph Lauren put on a lavish, four- “We’re seeing it with people creat- dimensional cinematic event for the ing stories at fashion shows,” Watts said, ’’ launch of its women’s Polo collection in noting that the creative community on September that was part video and part Instagram, especially in New York, has water show. Content was projected onto become a lot more sophisticated. “We’re a screen of water shooting up into the air, all familiar with the obligatory runway and the spectacle has garnered two bil- photo, [but] the expectation is that you lion impressions to date. will have people telling digital stories at This season, though, the brand’s social your shows, presentations or events.” efforts are a bit more subdued. Lauren is Brands argue that this is all just confi dent that the bevy of bloggers, pub- a signal that digital is maturing. lishers and online personalities who at- Implementing digital programs is no lon- tended the presentation for the new Polo ger novel or newsworthy — it just comes collections will generate chatter on their with the territory. Just as brands buy social channels and add a level of buzz print ads as a matter of course in their among the younger, downtown demo- businesses, they also dress and encour- graphic that the line is targeting. age online infl uencers to share socially Even the brands that have helped lead from the front row. the digital marketing charge are having Melisa Goldie, chief marketing offi cer at to think outside the box to come up with Calvin Klein, said it’s a good thing that digi- It’s exciting to see everybody something new. tal is no longer a novelty. For Goldie, stand- Uri Minkoff, chief executive offi cer of ing out online is less about livestreaming looking for the next best thing, but it’s Rebecca Minkoff, said, “There are four and more about content creation. or fi ve key platforms that have emerged For the past few seasons Calvin [and] you can’t really do anything more Klein has sought to get its brand mes- unfeasible to think that every season there with them. [So] on the one hand there isn’t any advance.” will be something groundbreaking On the other hand, he said there were “fascinating new companies in technol- that is applicable to your brand. ogy that are doing emerging things” — like Jaunt, a company whose proprietary 360-degree, stereoscopic 3-D cameras — DAVID LAUREN, RALPH LAUREN and 3-D sound-fi eld microphones allow brands to create immersive virtual-re- sage out globally by working with in- turn on our investment that is beyond ality experiences. The idea came from fluencers such as Brazil’s Helena just brand awareness and buzz. That is a Paul McCartney concert that was re- Bordon, Hong Kong-based stylist Tina the next phase of digital,” Goldie said. corded by Jaunt for virtual-reality devic- Leung and recent L.A. transplant by “Robust digital programs balance the es, where viewers could choose to be in way of Milan, Chiara Ferragni. This has overall brand experience, which can in- close proximity to McCartney or watch as worked well in terms of building global clude print, but digital gives us a great- a member of the audience. resonance and delivering a brand expe- er opportunity to measure and quantify The Minkoff brand partnered with rience with varying points of view, but the return.” GoPro to livestream its show Friday, but Calvin Klein is also seeking a return on Ralph Lauren’s men’s Purple Label and it also employed virtual-reality technol- its digital investments. men’s and women’s Polo presentation last ogy — two cameras with three dozen “Retailers are social media entities Thursday garnered 165 million impres- separate lenses fi lming the show — to in their own right,” Goldie said. “Now sions in the 24 hours following’’ the event, create a true virtual-reality experience retailers are important image partners the result of celebrities and bloggers like that will be released in a few months’ for us. How can we take into account Cody Simpson, Ciara, Emma Roberts, time. Minkoff, who said that virtual what stores have online and available Bella Hadid, Tyson Beckford, Hanneli reality as a buzzword is still six to 12 now, and also cover what’s going down Mustaparta, Bryan Grey-Yambao and Shea months out, believes this method of the runway? You can have millions Marie attending and socially sharing ev- fi lming will be able to extend the show and millions of eyeballs, but if there’s erything from a breakfast at Ralph’s Coffee experience and depict the runway in no real conversation it’s nothing but a to the collection presentation to a dinner a manner that a traditional livestream bunch of eyeballs.” that evening at The Polo Bar. never could. Come spring, the show This season, the brand is giving retail- “It’s exciting to see everybody looking will be available to watch through ers the blogger treatment and partners for the next best thing, but it’s unfeasible Jaunt’s app on Google Play (for Android such as Net-a-porter, MyTheresa and to think that every season there will be phones), on Samsung’s Gear VR, Oculus Opening Ceremony will be sharing from something groundbreaking that is ap- Rift, and on the Google Cardboard plat- the front row. plicable to your brand,” David Lauren, form for iOS. “Whether it’s the Justin Bieber cam- executive vice president of global adver- So maybe next year’s buzzword will be paign or the fashion shows, we really tising, marketing and communications at all about “VR” and the whole cycle will RALPH LAUREN PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER, RUNWAY PHOTOF BY GIOVANNI GIOVANNI PHOTOF BY RUNWAY STEVE EICHNER, LAUREN PHOTO BY RALPH want to show that we are getting a re- Ralph Lauren, told WWD. start again.

Alibaba agreed to cooperate “measures that would help us with the SAIC. achieve this goal.” SEC Seeking Information From Alibaba Jack Ma, Alibaba’s executive In recent weeks, Alibaba has Web site that it is launching an with our investors and feel that chairman, said in a letter to em- been engaged in a high profi le By LARA FARRAR investigation into possible un- the disclosure could help avoid ployees published on his micro- back-and-forth with Chinese fair pricing tactics in China’s e- false rumors and speculation,” blog on Friday, that the compa- ministries and officials. Also BEIJING — The turmoil is con- commerce sector. The statement the fi rm said. “The SEC letter ny, “will uphold the principles at the end of January, another tinuing for Alibaba. did not list any specifi c compa- states it should in no way be of objectivity, transparency and regulator issued a separate re- The Chinese e-commerce nies the NDRC is targeting. construed as Alibaba Group honesty” to deal with govern- port, which showed Taobao.com, giant revealed Friday that the In regard to the SEC’s having done anything wrong or ment inquiries as well as a num- Alibaba’s consumer-to-consum- U.S. Securities and Exchange query, Alibaba said that it had there having been any violation ber of lawsuits that have also er platform, to have the worst Commission is asking for in- received correspondence from of the securities law.” been fi led in the U.S. against the record among China’s e-tailers formation about a meeting the American regulator “ask- At the end of January, company over possible failure to for selling counterfeit products. the company had last summer ing for background facts and China’s State Administration disclose information about the Last week, China’s General with a Chinese regulator over other information related to for Industry and Commerce, or Chinese regulator’s inquiries Administration of Quality alleged questionable busi- our interaction with one of our SAIC, the government regulator into Alibaba’s business practic- Supervision, Inspection and ness practices. That meeting Chinese regulators” and that that met with Alibaba last sum- es prior to the IPO. Quarantine, said in a state- took place in July, only a few company is “cooperating with mer, released a “white paper” In response to the NDRC’s ment posted its Web site that a months before Alibaba’s re- the SEC’s request.” that said it raised concerns probe into business practices senior offi cial with the agency cord-breaking public offering “Although Alibaba has no about the sale of fake products in China’s e-commerce sec- told Ma during a meeting that in New York last fall. obligation to disclose the re- on the company’s e-commerce tor, Alibaba said separately Alibaba’s business practic- Also on Friday, the National ceipt of the SEC correspon- platforms but had withheld that the company “believes in es are potentially damaging Development and Reform dence, we have chosen to pro- publishing that paper so as not maintaining a fair and equi- China’s reputation abroad and Commission, or NDRC, China’s actively disclose the request to impact Alibaba’s IPO. The table marketplace for buyers Chinese consumer confi dence antitrust regulator, said on its because we value being open white paper was retracted after and sellers” and welcomes in shopping online. 22 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015

Karl Lagerfedl with Rihanna in Fendi. Jourdan Dunn in View From the Top Fendi. eye “WHAT DO I think of the shortage of high-wattage dinner apartment? It’s beautiful and I guests including Rihanna, Sarah like it for a party. I’m not sure I’d Jessica Parker, Jourdan Dunn, Leandra like it for living… It’s a little like Medine and Rachel Feinstein. They being on a showcase, no?” Karl had been selected by the brand to Lagerfeld said Friday night. partake in the 3Baguette initiative, He was standing on one of the in which they customized their highest perches in New York City, own baguette bag to be auctioned the 83rd fl oor of One57, the shiny off for charity. This was the second blue skyscraper that towers above reason for the bash. Midtown Manhattan. The locale “Because they had charities made news in January after a [that they champion] and we duplex penthouse, occupying the know them all,” Lagerfeld said 89th and 90th fl oor, sold for $100.5 when asked why he selected million, the most expensive these women. “They’re all nice residential sale in New York City people. So why not?” to date. Silas Chou is reportedly Those nice people were in contract for a full fl oor in currently scattered about the the building. The unit in which dining room, save Rihanna who Lagerfeld stood in is rumored to arrived over an hour later. be on sale for a cool $60 million. They were all, for the most “And you know,” he added. part, giving their spiels about “It’s not expensive enough.” their bags — “a little bit Moroccan, Sofi a Oh, Karl — nothing if not a a little bit Indian” for Medine; Coppola showman. As fashion week ennui Rastafarian pop for Dunn — over in Fendi. was beginning to set in (yes, their plates of vegetarian tartine already) for most in this industry, as Rihanna swept in, sinuous in Lagerfeld hosted a glitzy dinner an archival Fendi bodyhugger, a to reinvigorate all. pink chinchilla draped over her Well, the offi cial purpose of shoulders. She quickly curled up the evening was twofold: fi rst, to Lagerfeld and the two were in to toast the new Fendi fl agship an intimate tete-a-tete for most of on Madison Avenue, which was the night. done with a pre-dinner cocktail After dinner was cleared, held at the store. After which, a the most VIP of the VIP — winnowed down group — Hailey Lagerfeld, Rihanna, Coppola, Baldwin, Hailee Steinfeld, Rosario Campbell etc. — adjourned to a Dawson, Naomi Campbell, Zoe Kravitz, side bedroom for privacy. Soon Sofi a Coppola — Ubered their after, Rihanna scampered back way to the palace, despite its to her dinner table. She had proximity just two blocks West. forgotten her red wine. Lagerfeld aside, there was no — TAYLOR HARRIS

Brad Kroenig with Hailee Erykah Badu in Fendi. his son Hudson. Steinfeld in Fendi with Hailey Baldwin in Marc Jacobs.

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

West in tow, wearing custom said, unencumbered to speak to with another hard working Kim Kardashian, Wang, no less. a reporter now that she was at a member of the clan, who was Kanye West and Wherever the West- more low-key venue. They were fresh off the Wang runway. North West. Kardashians go — the there because Geller is a friend “I literally ran to my room Grammys, his Adidas of her husband’s, she said. But and put my hair up, because collaboration — cameras there was one bundle of joy who it was all greasy from the follow, and so it was no seemed to be missing: Where had show, took off my makeup, put surprise to see them they left the kid? It takes so little on some mascara, and now on the clock, even on to upset West, as we know, and I’m here,” she said. It was Valentine’s Day. What’s this question did just the trick. something of a homecoming for more romantic than “No — don’t, don’t, don’t, her. A year ago, Kendall was sitting pretty for a few of don’t,” West snarled, indignant. cast by Katie Grand to walk in your nearest and dearest “‘Where did you guys leave the Jacobs’ fall 2014 runway show, photographers at a kid?’” The problem seemed to up until then her most high- handful of fashion shows? be the reference to his fi rstborn profi le assignment as a model. It was a working day with something as ordinary The reason she was at the store too for another member as “the kid.” “We don’t call it on Saturday night was to sign of their extended the kid,” Kardashian added copies of the latest issue of family, Kardashian’s helpfully. Once he was talked Grand’s magazine, Love, where The Kim and Kanye Show little sister Kendall off a ledge, West backed down, she’s featured alongside some Jenner, who walked the if only a little. What did he of the biggest names in the show. After Wang, the think of Wang’s show? business, like Gisele Bündchen ON SATURDAY AFTERNOON, but certainly noteworthy Kim and Kanye show “I’m not going to answer any and Miranda Kerr. Outside, the the rapper YG was at Pier 36 in personalities in the vicinity. went on the road to more questions. I’m just telling crush of fans and paparazzi Manhattan’s East Side waiting Not too far away was Nicki the West Side’s Pier you, you don’t ask about our required the presence of the front row for Alexander Wang Minaj, Zoe Kravitz and the 59 for Robert Geller. damn kid,” he said. OK! New York Police Department to start. It was his first fashion actress Natasha Lyonne. She had enjoyed the At around the same time, for crowd control. show ever and he was a little But the biggest stars of Wang collection. Marc Jacobs was making a “Who’s in there, Kanye West?” overwhelmed. all had yet to arrive. Finally, “I thought it was pronouncement at the Bookmarc asked an irritated passerby. It “I like the vibe. There’s a lot Kanye West and Kim Kardashian amazing. Really tough, shop in the West Village. wasn’t, but isn’t it starting to feel of important people here, you burst in at the last possible Kendall but I loved all the “Kendall Kardashian, like he’s everywhere? feel me?” he said. There were in minute before the lights Jenner in metal mesh at the everyone,” the designer — ERIK MAZA AND fact a lot of, well, not important, went down with little end,” Kardashian proclaimed as he walked in LAUREN MCCARTHY North Marc Jacobs. STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE ALL OTHERS BY BRUINOOGE/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; PAUL STEVELAGERFELD EICHNER; JENNER BY AND DUNN PHOTOS BY 2.5x7 (right)

WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2015 23 WWD.COM Pinto, featuring actress Taryn Manning as headlining DJ. In addition, VF’s MEMO PAD Social Club returns to Hollywood’s FASHION SCOOPS WeWork creative space for the second CURBED APPEAL: Vox Media’s Curbed year, providing bloggers and online site has tapped Kelsey Keith as its fi rst journalists with an interactive work GOING CONTEMPORARY: The Gucci show was, dare we say, fun? Mary J. Blige, editor in chief. Keith, who joins Curbed space and a venue for a Q&A with Museum in Florence is opening its Bryshere Gray, Rosario Dawson, Kelly Osbourne, on Feb. 26, most recently served as Oscar-nominated costume designer seventh contemporary art exhibition Nene Leakes, Michelle Rodriguez, Quincy and special projects editor at Dwell, where Colleen Atwood (Tuesday) and a preview on March 13. Paris Hilton were among the notables who she oversaw digital strategy. Prior to of Louise Roe’s book “Front Roe” (Friday). Named “The Language of Flowers” walked the runway quite simply because Dwell, she served as coeditor of Curbed — MARCY MEDINA — a title immediately linking to Campbell asked. Ditto for Justin Bieber, New York and as founding editor of Gucci’s signature Flora motif — the Christina Milian, Estelle, Russell Simmons Architizer. Her writing on architecture, COSMO GOES SUB-SAHARAN: Cosmopolitan exhibition unveils the works included and Zac Posen, who plunked themselves design and art has appeared in i-D, is making an appearance in Nigeria. in the Pinault Collection by four artists down in the rowdy front row. The newly Details, Artforum, Fast Co.’s Design, The women’s title has expanded its who played with the image of fl owers kinder-gentler supermodel had similar Gawker and The Atlantic’s CityLab. presence digitally in sub-Saharan to explore different themes, such as pull with agencies that ponied up a According to Vox Media vice president Africa with launch sponsor Estée vanity, memory, politics and the value bevy of models. Designers also came and editorial director Lauder Cos. of art itself. through in a big way, with Tom Ford, Marc Lockhart Steele, Keith The English-language Among the works featured in the Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Thom Browne, Diane von will meld real estate, Kelsey site — Cosmopolitan.ng exhibit, curated by Martin Bethenod, Furstenberg, Proenza Schouler, Emilio Pucci, design and architecture Keith — is operated by a local director of Venice’s Palazzo Grassi- Givenchy, Ralph Lauren and Roberto Cavalli into the site’s editorial editorial team in Lagos Punta della Dogana, are “Calendula” providing the looks. Campbell needed experience. “If you look and led by blogger Yemisi and “Phlox New Hybrid” by French only 10 days of wrangling to orchestrate at shelter magazines, Odusanya. As customary photographer Valérie Belin. These blur the the event for the Ebola Survival Fund, a none, in my estimation, of Hearst Magazines lines between human beings and nonprofit helping victims of has made a good home and its shared digital plants, combining female faces FOR MORE the disease in Liberia and on the Web,” Steele said, newsroom, Odusanya with fl oral motifs, while Marlene SCOOPS, SEE Sierra Leone. explaining that Curbed has access to content Dumas’ “Einder” painting shows Pre-runway jitters is poised to seize an across all the company’s a delicate fl oral arrangement WWD.com. would not deter a opportunity. international sites. placed upon the coffi n of the Burberry-wearing Blige Curbed will also get a This includes artist’s mother, creating both a in any way. “This is what new site at the end of the fashion, beauty and sense of grief and relief through friends do,” she said. Like year, and a slate of new entertainment content its serene color palette. many in the crowd, Blige chatted about hires under Keith, who for Cosmopolitan’s U.S., Flowers are a life metaphor in a recent project, “The London Sessions” will report to Steele. U.K. and Australia sites, “Fantôme (Jasmine),” a sculpture by with Disclosure and four-time Grammy Prior to the addition of for example, that can be Moroccan artist Latifa Echakhch, who was winner Sam Smith. “Look at you,” she an editor in chief, Curbed’s national editor repurposed for a Nigerian audience. inspired by the image of a traveling told Cassie Ventura approvingly, who is and cities editor reported to Steele. Hearst said that Lauder’s buy for the Lebanese seller of jasmine covering recording her fi rst album in 10 years. The investment is part of Vox month of February includes display ads, his fl oral necklaces with a shirt to Rodriguez is also in a writing mode, Media’s latest round of funding. The videos and local content and integration protect them. Echakhch created this toiling with a script. The inspiration? fi rm raised $46 million in the fall, that links back to the beauty fi rm’s installation celebrating the and it has used the cash infusion to digital platforms in Nigeria. resistance to a frenetic life. relaunch its sister sites, which include According to Duncan Edwards, Irving Penn’s “Cottage Racked and The Verge, as well as president of Hearst Magazines Tulip, Sorbet, New York” invest in new technologies. International, Nigeria is a booming and “Single Oriental Poppy” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD market for personal-care companies diptychs are also displayed such as Lauder, Unilever, L’Oréal, at the exhibition. Composed VANITY FAIR’S CAMPAIGN TRAIL: Vanity Procter & Gamble and others. combining a black-and-white Fair Campaign Hollywood, the annual Translation: There are big ad dollars up picture with its colored Oscar-week series of events funded for grabs in the region. version, they represent the by presenting sponsors Chrysler and Edwards compared the economically search for perfection, as well L’Oréal U.S.A., this year includes evolving market in the region to China. as the awareness of the vanity Tuesday’s “Young Hollywood” event Sub-Saharan Africa, the region, is of everything surrounding us. with VF executive West Coast editor likely to have the highest gross domestic The exhibition, which will Krista Smith and James Corden, host product growth rates over the next 10 be open until Sept. 20, will of CBS’s “The Late Late Show,” at years. “Nigeria is the largest country in be celebrated with a cocktail Hollywood club No Vacancy; Thursday’s that region. It operates in the English party on March 12 at the Gucci cocktail party at Cecconi’s to toast the language, so it’s a relatively easy fi rst Museum. — ALESSANDRA TURRA cast of best-picture nominee “Boyhood” try for us,” Edwards told WWD. “If we Bryshere Gray, Mary J. Blige and Lancôme and Clarisonic’s luncheon can make this work in Nigeria, then PRETTY YOUNG THINGS: and Naomi Campbell at the and spa day at Ciel Spa, hosted by VF there’s a handful of other countries in Judging by the frenzied Fashion for Relief show. beauty director SunHee Grinnell, and that region that should be relatively photographers inside THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Friday’s D.J. Night hosted by Freida easy to follow.” — A.S. DKNY’s fall show, held at the Cedar Lake Dance Company space on “Getting older — you look in the mirror Sunday, some major celebrities were and think, “Time’s ticking.…What am I about to arrive. But as the jostling doing with my life? What are my dreams intensified and flashbulbs starting and what do I care about?” going off, a break in the crowd revealed Tyson Beckford has been busy playing a pair of fresh-faced starlets making a stripper in the upcoming movie the rounds at their first New York “Chocolate City.” As for the prep work, Fashion Week. “I’ve never sat front row Beckford said, “I went to a lot of strip before, so just to be here is incredible,” clubs — and the gym. But I don’t have For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. said model Bella Hadid, the 18-year-old to pole dance, which is good.” younger sister of Gigi. “I can’t wait to At the show, all of the celebrity see all the looks and everything.” When models faced a cavalcade of whoops, her friend, Sophia Richie, arrived, Hadid hollers and shouts. Campbell caused Check out could barely wade through the camera a sensation fi rst in Pucci and then equipment to give her a hug. Richie, in Givenchy, as did “Empire” actor the new DIGITAL daughter of Lionel and kid sister to Gray, who stripped off his shirt. Hilton version of Nicole (and at age 16, very baby-faced sashayed the runway within an inch of PATTERNS, SAMPLES, indeed), is in town to see this show, as her life and the crowd erupted when PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. well as Diane von Furstenberg, Jeremy Leakes threw in an extra two-hands-up Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The Scott and Tommy Hilfiger, plus “to snap, before dramatically exiting the do a few shoots, and a few meetings.” runway. To hammer home the event’s premier Elsewhere, Zendaya and Victoria Justice message during the fi nale, all the destination — two Disney stars-turned-singer- models wore white T-shirts imprinted songwriters — preened. “I’m obsessed with a zero, as in no more cases of for the fashion with DKNY. I love the blend of classic Ebola. While the U.S. fi ght against industry’s Real Estate, pieces and urban pieces. It’s my Ebola in West Africa has shifted from personal style,” said Zendaya. She said a military one to a civilian one and Business Opportunities, she’s been busy working on her music the epidemic no longer dominates the and Help Wanted listings. and her studio TV show. And how did news as it once did, Campbell remained she spend Valentine’s Day? “I hung out stalwart. “Maybe the powers-that-be are with my mom, ate and was just chillin’,” walking away from it, but what about the POST YOUR LISTINGS ONLINE NOW! said the 18-year-old. public? Where’s the vaccine?” Campbell FASHIONCAREERS.MARKET.ADICIO.COM — ALLY BETKER AND LISA LOCKWOOD said. “We’re still traveling — we’re going on trains, planes, automobiles, buses, NAOMI’S CAUSE: Saturday night, public transport — and we really don’t Valentine’s Day, an averted snowstorm know what’s going on.” — whatever the factors that were at — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG AND play, Naomi Campbell’s Fashion for Relief ROXANNE ROBINSON Another reason to love The Fabric of Our Lives®

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