Pencil Skirt Base Fdii201 Table of Content
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 TABLE OF CONTENT
Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4
SEWING ...... 5 1. Basting the skirt ...... 6 2. Darts ...... 6 3. Side seams and center back seam ...... 7 4. Closure ...... 8 5. Waistband ...... 8
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES
PENCIL SKIRT FABRIC PIECES
Skirt Front Skirt Back 1 Skirt Back 2 Waistband
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES PATTERN BLOCK
waistline dart waistline waistline intake
dart dart leg center
hip line hip line hip line
thigh line thigh line thigh line center back center back
center front
side seam side side seam side side seam bottom side seam bottom bottom
fold line
center side center side center back front back
1. A block is a two dimensional template for a basic garment from that can be modi ed into a more elaborate design. Block are constructed using your individual measurements and do not show any style lines or seam allowance. 2. The skirt base include 3/8” (1 cm) amount of allowance for ease and comfort: Your waist circumfer- ence + 3/4” (2 cm) and hip circumference + 3/4” (2 cm). 3. Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several darts - from one to three at the back and from zero to two at the front. For the volume of the thigh protrusion (thigh), the main dart may be long. The total amount of darts may di er from the technical drawing. 4. The skirts have the closure at the center back seam. 5. Classic tted pencil skirt. Sitting on the waist with straight waistband. This skirt is tted through the hip, slightly tapering in at the hemline that nish at the knee level. The extension for the widest hip circumference is below the hip line. The extension is reparable a er modi cations. The more are the skirts (rotations, pleat openings, etc.), the more the side line should be straightened. Trace new side seam, making sure to go beyond hip curve and side seams are same length.
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 4 PATTERN BLOCK SEWING
Fabric key Fabric recommendations:
Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill
Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage in bias grain a r g s s o r grain line c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage
1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE SKIRT
1.1
Baste the skirt for a possible tting. The skirt can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. For the tting, just baste the waistband beneath the waist edge, without folding it. 4. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results.
2. DARTS
2.1
darts
Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several darts. The total amount of darts may di er from the technical drawing.
2.2
stitch direction
Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge.
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 6 SEWING 2.3
press toward Press the darts - darts should be pressed toward the center. the center Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point.
3. SIDE SEAMS AND CENTER BACK SEAM
3.1
notch
Finish the center back seams with a serger stitch. Place with the right sides together and sew to the closure notch. The closure end notch is the recommended stopping point depending on your body measurements.
3.2
Sew the skirt side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines.
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 7 SEWING 4. CLOSURE
4.1
The skirts have the closure at the center back seam. Depending on your skirt design and fabric choose one of the closure types: All - purpose zipper: Centered; All -purpose zipper: Laped; All -purpose zipper: Fly guard; Invisible zipper; etc..
5. WAISTBAND
5.1
Attach the waistband. The skirt waistline edge is longer than the waistband. Match the notches and seamlines. Between the notches, the skirt seam needs to ease. The total amount of ease depends on the overall body size. At the front, the ease tends to concentrate more in the center region - the total amount of ease is 1/4” - 3/8” (5mm - 1cm) at the half of the front piece, while the ease at the back needs to be ease in all the back waistline - the total amount of ease is 0“ - 3/4” (0 - 2cm) at the half of the back piece.
PENCIL SKIRT BASE FDII201 Page 8 SEWING