NV champagnes tasted in London: Jancis Robinson 09/07/19

TASTING ARTICLES

GROWERS' CHAMPAGNE

Worshipping at the altar of non-vintage champagne... Tyson Stelzer is an Australian wine writer with a particular interest in screwcaps and champagne. It was the latter that lured him to a Hawksmoor church in London's Spitalfields recently to lay on the finest generic tasting of champagne the capital had seen for some time. To the outside observer it may seem strange that this event was organised from Australia and, apparently anyway, had nothing to do with the official generic champagne promotional body. Ours not to reason why. Taste Champagne was a great success for those of us who enjoy tasting champagne without too much of a crowd. I dare say Tyson might have wished for even more attendees at the trade tasting during the day and the public one in the evening. But it was a sufficient success for him and his team to be planning the next one already. Put 25 March 2020 in your diary... There were so many champagnes available to taste – 211 – that a strategy was needed. I decided to taste each exhibitor's standard non-vintage blend, which is after all the calling card of all producers and, according to the most accurate estimate I could get from champagne officials, represents 94.4% of all champagne produced. We may all fuss about the luxury-priced prestige cuvées, and I would like to point out that vintage champagne is probably the bargain category at the moment, but in reality, the champagne business is all about NV. The reason I haven't written much about NV champagnes recently is because, although the blends change every year, it is frustratingly difficult to identify which blend you are tasting. One distinguishing mark of the good grower champagnes, or 'domaine champagnes' or 'single-estate champagnes' as Tim Hall of Scala Wine calls them in his insider's view of Champagne, is the amount of information most of them have on the bottle, usually on the back label. It is common to be told which vintage(s) the blend is based on, when the wine was disgorged and what the dosage was, what the varietal make-up is, and often the provenance of the grapes. But the big houses tend to keep the whole thing a mystery. Some mutter that this is because they like to keep open the possibility of the notorious practice of buying sur lattes, supplementing their stocks with unlabelled champagne from a variety of outside sources. But to be fair, I think a lot of them see the market for NV champagne as consisting of normal people who couldn't care less about the detail of what's in the bottle. Quite a number of them give details on the back labels of their vintage and prestige cuvées but are happy to leave those who buy NV champagne in ignorance. But I think that since many a bottle of non-vintage champagne costs £30 or £40, they should treat their customers with a bit more respect. I'll be writing on Saturday in more detail about the arguments in favour of giving more information on bottles of NV champagne. So at Tyson's tasing I made a complete nuisance of myself asking at every table which vintage the NV blend was based on. The variety of responses was hilarious and I have spelt out many of them in italics in the tasting notes below. Master of Wine Martin Gamman representing Joseph Perrier, for instance, told me the blend of their Cuvée Royale I was tasting was based on 2014 but added with a smile, 'people have to ring me up if they want to know that sort of thing'. I have also included my tasting notes on the basic blend shown by each champagne producer at a tasting of 'new wave' champagnes organised by Tim Hall at 67 Pall Mall on 4 June so that you should get a good grasp of what's currently on the market. In general those at Tim's tasting were much more forthcoming with information than those at Tyson's but there are certainly exceptions. I followed this double immersion in champagne with four very concentrated days in the Champagne region on which I will be reporting in detail over the summer. Tasting notes on 61 non-vintage champagnes (one wine was tasted twice, on different dates) are listed alphabetically by producer below. Detailed background information on those producers tasted at 67 Pall Mall on 4 June was kindly provided by Tim Hall and also appears in italics.

Agrapart et Fils, Les 7 Crus Brut NV Champagne

Estate based in Avize, with most of its 12 ha (30 acres) spread over several Côte des Blancs grands crus. No chemical pesticide or herbicide, cultivation for soil quality and root depth. Well-used 600-litre casks used to ferment important fractions. There are natural-yeast fermentations and experimentation with this for the second fermentation too. This is 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir from seven villages, including grands crus Cramant and Avize. Blend of 2015 and 2016. About 2 years on lees. About 50% of the 2015 fraction barrel-fermented. Dosage 7 g/l. Quite deep greenish straw. Fairly aggressive chew – seems not yet quite integrated. Very firm rather than hedonistic. Rather sudden finish. Drink 2020 – 2023 15.5

Yann Alexandre, Noir Brut NV Champagne

Based in Courmas on the Petite Montagne de Reims, 6.5 ha (16 acres) of vines in 30 parcels spread over 6 villages, about half planted to Meunier, one-third Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Noir. Green alleys and use of only organic fertiliser began in 1999. Herbicide was stopped completely 15 years ago and ploughing begun. They have achieved the highest level of certified HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale 3). Only the cuvée is used from the press, and fermentation is somewhat cooler than ‘classic’, at around 16 °C rather than 20 °C. The domaine ‘brut sans année’ is 55% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir. Base 2013, plus 30% reserve wines. Malo done. Aged 5 years on lees in cellar. Dosage 8 g/l. Nicely balanced and complete on the nose. Really spreads across the palate. Not the most concentrated but attractive in a flirtatious way. Neat finish. Rather impressively confident. Drink 2019 – 2024 16.5 Vincent d'Astrée, Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Popular French brand taken over by Beaumont des Crayères in 2018 and therefore carries a co-op code (CM) like B des C. Deepish straw. A bit more substantial on the palate than the Beaumont des Crayères counterpart. Drink 2018 – 2019 15.5

Ayala, Majeur Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2014. Clue is the 2018 disgorgement date ‘because we always age for three years on lees’. Tiny bead. Nice and tight – extremely refreshing although I'd guess there is quite a bit of dosage. Just a little bit astringent on the end. Drink 2019 – 2022 15.5

Beaumont des Crayères, Grande Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Base '2014 and 2015' I'm told. Not that intense and quite sweet. Pretty ordinary with some chewiness on the end. Drink 2018 – 2020 15

Besserat de Bellefon, Cuvée des Moines Brut NV Champagne

Light nose and rather sweet. Some astringency. Drink 2019 – 2020 15

Boizel, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Very knowledgeable pourer who told me this is based on 2014. Pale lemon straw colour. Some distinctive nuttiness on the nose. Creamy texture but it seems a little sweet. Admittedly they also have a zero dosage cuvée. Drink 2018 – 2021 15.5

Bollinger, Special Cuvée Brut NV Champagne

Disgorgement date given for vintage wines but not NV. Shocking! Very pale with a greenish tinge. Extremely zesty nose with real depth. Pretty frothy mousse with an undertow of greater age than most of the champagnes I have been tasting. Definitely distinctive though there is something a little loose about the structure. Drink 2019 – 2022 16

Le Brun de Neuville, Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2013 but there is no way of knowing from the label. Tight and focused. Sleek texture. Very nice balance and not too much dosage. Refined. Drink 2018 – 2023 16

Cattier, Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

The French representative behind the table told me immediately that this was based on 2012 – and seemed quite surprised when he failed to find any indication of this on the back label. Deep straw. Pretty intense nose for a non-vintage blend. Mouth-filling, fairly frothy texture. Sweet lemon cream. A little diffuse on the palate but the nose is impressive. Drink 2018 – 2020 16 -

Chanoine, Tsarine Cuvée Premium Brut NV Champagne

Very fancy bottles indeed for this sister brand to Lanson and Besserat. Something a tad soapy about this. Frothy and a little metallic. But it's actually admirably long. Drink 2018 – 2020 15.5

Chartogne-Taillet, Ste-Anne NV Champagne

Alexandre Chartogne succeeded his parents in 2006 at this 14-ha (35-acre) domaine. He is at pains to point out the grand historical reputation of the vines of Merfy on the Massif de St-Thierry north of Reims, where there is a deep layer of glacial debris and sandy clay over the chalk. He cultivates this to drive vine roots deeper and uses cover crops to help devigorate vines and keep yields moderate. His fermentations involve wood, concrete ‘eggs’, earthenware vats as well as steel tanks and he makes a range of single- vineyard wines, apart from the entry-level Cuvée Ste-Anne NV. This is 55% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier. Base (60%) 2016 and 40% from 2015. Deliberately made with a slightly reduced mousse pressure. Disgorged late 2018. Dosage 5.5 g/l. Mild but well balanced on the nose. Non-dramatic but well integrated and not austere. It may have been made with deliberately lower pressure but I still find the mousse notably mouth-filling. Clean and neat on the end. May well be GV even if no transports of delight – a little too astringent to deliver them. Drink 2018 – 2022 16

André Clouet, Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne

Base 2015. Hint of pale pink? Light, lemon-cream nose. Lots of acidity. Just a tad galumphing. Yeoman wine. Drink 2018 – 2020 15 Collard-Picard, Cuvée Sélection Brut NV Champagne

QR code on the back. I'm assured that in the future all his wines will be Extra Brut. This is a blend of 2012 and 2013. Disgorgement date of 2018 given on the back label. All Pinot (50/50 Noir and Meunier) from the Vallée de la Marne. Smells of putty and has great grip and personality. Arguably more of a food wine than an aperitif. Somehow sort of ruddy-cheeked. Good characterful country wine! Drink 2019 – 2022 £39 Swig 16

Delamotte, Brut NV Champagne

Base 2014 but they don’t like to disclose this generally. Rather frothy-textured and delicate-flavoured. Easy wine to like. Good balance. Drink 2018 – 2021 16

Deutz, Classic Brut NV Champagne

Base 2015. They don't like to divulge this, they say, but the last two digits of the lot number on the foil are the year of disgorgement so you just take three off that. Quite rich but very satisfying. Broad and somehow flagrant. Lots of pleasure here even if not exactly finesse. Drink 2018 – 2021 16

Devaux, Cuvée D Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2010! There is a QR code on the back label but the new employee isn’t too sure what it reveals. He can – amazingly – read a black lot number on the dark bottle which tells him the disgorgement date. Very pale. Tight-knit wine with fair old richness. Nicely embroidered palate with interest, though it's a bit chunky on the end. Drink 2019 – 2023 16

Louis Dousset , Assemblage Brut Grand Cru NV Champagne

Doesn’t smell fresh enough. Then rather sweet and tired. Drink 2018 – 2020 14.5

Nathalie Falmet, Brut NV Champagne

Small estate (3.2 ha (8 acres), making some 30,000 bottles per annum), mostly in of Rouvres-les-Vignes, on the south-eastern edge of Champagne’s Aube, with 0.4 ha the other side of Bar-sur-Aube in Arsonval. The prized vineyard of the estate is a single parcel of senior Pinot Noir and Meunier vines on south-facing Le Val Cornet outside the village, which makes a cuvée of the same name. In all, 2.1 ha are planted to Pinot Noir, 0.5 ha is Chardonnay and 0.6 ha Meunier. The viticulture is lutte raisonnée, on clay and Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Falmet uses stainless steel, older barrels and terracotta amphorae, as well as solera reserves begun in 2008. This is 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Base 2014 plus 30% reserves. Fermentation in stainless steel. Malo done. Bottled March 2015, disgorged June 2018. Dosage 5 g/l. Fairly neutral but well-settled nose. Very easy to like; not too challenging! But not dull. GV? Drink 2018 – 2021 16

Fleury Père & Fils, Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne

Lots of info on the back label including disgorgement date of 2018 so presumably this is based on 2015. Dosage 6 g/l. Famously organic. Very mouth-filling and rather floral, even if without great tension. Slightly flip-floppy but distinctive! Drink 2019 – 2022 16

Geoffroy, Expression Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

The origins of this single estate, and the vineyards still, are in the western Marne, mainly in Cumières where 11 ha (27 acres) of the 14 ha (35 acres) owned are found, with some vines in Damery, Hautvillers and Fleury-la- Rivière. Tight for space, the domaine moved its winery facility to Aÿ in 2006. The planted proportions are 24% Chardonnay, 34% Meunier and 42% Pinot Noir. The viticulture is near-organic, cultivating the soil, using grass in the alleys and no herbicide is used. The winery is gravity-flow and traditional Coquard presses begin the process before fermentations in a mix of tanks and wood. Malo is routinely avoided. This is 50% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. Based on 2013 and 2014. Plot-by-plot vinification in temperature-controlled enamelled steel vats; reserve wine partly kept in oak casks. Dosage 8g/l. Pale straw. Creamy nose that is most beguiling. A little grainier-textured than the nose suggests but satisfying until a slightly metallic finish. Drink 2019 – 2023 16

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Cuis Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne By ‘grower’ standards, a big estate of 28 ha (69 acres), about half of which are in the premier cru village of Cuis at the northern end of the Côte des Blancs and 11 ha shared across the two grands crus Cramant and Chouilly. In 2004, 1 ha in Oger was purchased, followed in 2008 with 2 ha in Vertus and 1 ha of Pinot Noir in Aÿ. Mass selection is the norm here and 70% of the parcels owned in grands crus are over 40 years old. Over 250,000 bottles made per annum, majority 100% Chardonnay, making Gimonnet the biggest producer of Blanc de Blancs in Champagne. Only stainless steel is used, no oak, aiming for restraint and finesse. Distinctively, all reserve wines are kept in 75 cl bottles on light lees and a tiny dose of sweetness for pétillant freshness. In 2011, an Oger Grand Cru wine was the first single grand cru they made, and it remains so: he has a lot of grand cru land but does not want to make over-powerful wines. This is 100% Chardonnay, stainless steel. Total ageing in bottle up to 30 months. Malo done. Dosage 6 g/l. Pale greenish straw. Massive energy and bite on the nose. Tight texture with marked acidity. Lots to get your teeth into. Quite refined and smooth- textured. Well-judged pressure. Long and super-refreshing aperitif wine. Drink 2018 – 2023 16.5

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Cuis Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Very informative back label tells me it's 2015 base with 6 g/l dosage. Transparent and lively. Really nice wine with lots of personality. A wine of place? GV? Drink 2019 – 2023 16.5

Henri Giraud, Fût de Chene MV13 Aÿ Grand Cru NV Champagne

Claude Giraud, the 12th generation in charge, arrived in 1972 and has transformed the house’s reputation. A shift from RM (grower) to NM (négociant) in 1990 expanded a range from bought-in fruit (notably the Esprit wine) but the higher-level wines are grand cru, exclusively from Aÿ. 12 ha (30 acres) owned, mainly in Aÿ and 15 ha (37 acres) are bought in from the Montagne de Reims, a good proportion being Aÿ. About 275,000 bottles annually. The grands crus wines, most barrel-fermented, spend 12 months on lees in small 228-litre barrels before bottling. Giraud’s barrels come from the Argonne forest, around Ste-Ménehould 80 km east of Aÿ. Claude’s father used the same oak. They were the traditional source of Champagne barrels in the 19th century until (from the mid 1950s) fermentation in steel tanks (at first enamelled) became the norm. Claude revived the business of obtaining and certifying oak from the Argonne, involving an established cooper Camille Gauthier, and his barrels are made by three tonnelleries. His belief is that this is not merely a ‘heritage’ exercise, but that Argonne oak gives a gentler, less-aggressive texture. In 2016 the house replaced its stainless-steel tanks with 600-litre ‘eggs’ made from sandstone. This is 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. 70% 2013 fermented in Argonne oak barrels; 30% ‘solera’, oldest 1990. Dosage 6–7 g/l. Magnum. Real tension and febrile excitement on the palate. Very distinctive with the oak element far from hidden but not too obtrusive. Long and rather thrilling even if it demands attention. A rather intellectual champagne à la Krug. Drink 2019 – 2025 17

Henri Giraud, Esprit Nature Brut NV Champagne

Masses of information (concrete eggs and all) but nothing about the principal year. Very distinctive. Lots of oak influence and richness. Very different from most. Selosse-like: white wine with bubbles. Not aggressive acidity. Lots of fun. Drink 2018 – 2021 16.5

Philippe Gonet, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Mainly Pinot, based on 2016. Back label gives a lot number which can easily be decoded to give the disgorgement date. Quite a high percentage of reserve wines and dosage never more than 7 g/l. Interesting yeasty nose. Good balance. This may be based on a fairly recent vintage but it's a wine full of charm and personality. GV? Drink 2019 – 2022 16

Gosset, Grande Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2013 with QR code on the back. Almost water white. Solid and well assembled. The overall impression is of a bone-dry, particularly appetising wine. Needs a bit of time perhaps. Drink 2020 – 2025 16

Charles Heidsieck, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Year of cellaring (2013) on the back label, so it’s based on 2012. Low-key nose but lots of layers on the palate. Really first class. Lacy texture and intriguing, tightly laced and embroidered. Very well done! Good tension. Drink 2018 – 2023 16.5

Heidsieck Monopole, Blue Top Brut NV Champagne

A bit raw on the nose. And really pretty sweet, and metallic, on the palate. Smoke and mirrors? Not that refreshing. I really would rather have an English sparkling wine than this. Bring on the full English! Drink 2019 – 0 14.5

Didier Herbert, Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Rather loose and rich but with some definite appeal – not least the price. GV Drink 2018 – 2021 16

André Jacquart, Vertus Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Founded in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger on the Côte des Blancs in 1958, this single- estate récoltant manipulant moved to Vertus in 2004. Marie Doyard (Maurice Doyard, founder member of the CIVC, was her great-grandfather) and brother Benoit then took over. Benoit and his father run the winemaking and viticulture. The estate is one of the largest for a grower – 24 ha (59 acres), with over 200 parcels; 2 ha in the Aisne, 2 ha in the Aube, 4 ha in Vertus and no less than 16 ha in Le Mesnil, a huge holding for one domaine in this grand cru. Some 80% of production is exported. Two Coquard PAI presses and over 200 barrels (nearly everything is barrel-fermented) define the winemaking. MLF is routinely blocked on all cuvées. All the wines are Blanc de Blancs (except the rosé). This is 100% Chardonnay, 100% Vertus, 2014 base with 20% reserves from 2013 and 2012; 100% barrel-fermented, held 10 months. Dosage 4 g/l. Very lively, winning, well-integrated nose. Massive tension and real electricity on the palate. Very good aperitif champagne but with good undertow. Drink 2019 – 2024 17

André Jacquart, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grand Cru NV Champagne

100% Le Mesnil, 100% Chardonnay. Base of 2011 with 20% reserve from 2010. All barrel-fermented, held 10 months, malo blocked. Dosage 0 g/l. Bright yellow straw. Hint of spicy oak on the nose. Maybe just a bit too much? Just slightly oily. Drink 2019 – 2022 16

André Jacquart, Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV Champagne

100% Le Mesnil, 100% Chardonnay. Base 2013, with 20% reserves from 2012 and 2011. 100% barrel-fermented, held 12 months. Dosage 4 g/l. Lively and fresh and crisp without any obvious oak influence. Slightly scratchy in texture but very refreshing. Not tightly knit but honest and sincere, and certainly very Mesnil. Drink 2019 – 2024 16.5

Jeeper, Grand Assemblage Brut NV Champagne

Base 2014. Distinctive flask bottle. A bit hard-pressed-tasting. Solid mouthful with some astringency. But decent length. Drink 2019 – 2021 15.5

Benoît Lahaye, Brut Nature Grand Cru NV Champagne

Benoît took over from his grower parents in 1993. Inside one year he had stopped using herbicide completely (almost unheard of in Champagne in 1994) and in 1996 began to make his own wine from the 4.8-ha (12-acre) estate, 88% planted to Pinot Noir. Organic by 2007 and Biodyvin biodynamic certified in 2010. There are 3 ha in Bouzy, 1 ha in Ambonnay next door and 60 ares in Tauxières, along with a small parcel of 20 ares in Voipreux on the south of the Côtes des Blancs. 2 ha are worked by horse to reduce compaction and diesel fuel and he plans this for all the vineyards. All the vins clairs are barrel-fermented with spontaneous yeast and he works to reduce sulphur and makes his Violaine cuvée with zero. Most of the production is exported. This is 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. From 30- year-old vines in Ambonnay and Bouzy. Base 2014. Barrel-fermented, with 30 months on lees in bottle and disgorged January 2018. Deep flavoured and apparently fairly long-aged on the nose though with massive vivacity on the palate. Still a bit aggressively youthful. Tastes minimally dosed. Drink 2021 – 2025 16.5

Lanson, Black Label Brut NV Champagne

Blend of 10 different years. To determine the base vintage – there is a precise disgorgement date on the back label and this is given three years of ageing, so it’s based on 2015. Easy peasy! Clean, fresh nose. Tastes pretty crisp – presumably still no malo. Good attack. I would happily drink this in the interval at a theatre but I wouldn't linger over it. Not unlike an English sparkling wine. Though it fades a little fast. Drink 2019 – 2022 15.5

Jacques Lassaigne, Les Vignes de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV Champagne

Montgueux is a conical hill rising from the plain just west of Troyes; one of Champagne’s anomalous districts on the northern edge of the Côte des Bar or Aube, a good deal south of Champagne central, with vines being planted here only since the 1960s. Emmanuel Lassaigne took over from his father in 1999. More recently he has changed from grower-producer to négociant (NM), buying in about 2 ha (5 acres) to add to the 3.5 ha (8.6 acres) he owns. His own vines are in one east- and south-east-facing 20% incline block and he uses no herbicide or other chemicals and grasses the rows. He relies on natural yeast and buys a yeast culture from Champagne Fleury for the second fermentation. A mix of oak and tanks are used, there is little sulphur, a deliberate lower-pressure mousse (4.5–5 bar) and every champagne here is zero dosage. Of 50,000 bottles per annum, over 50% is exported to 28 countries. This is 100% Chardonnay. 41% 2016, 32% 2015, 27% 2014. First fermentation 1.5 –4 months. Malo done. No fining or filtration. Bottled May 2017. Disgorged November 2018. Dosage 0 g/l. Quite a light nose with some floral hints. Marked acidity. Hint of beeriness. Drink 2018 – 2021 15.5

A R Lenoble, Dosage Zéro Brut Nature NV Champagne

Based in Damery in the Marne, independent and family-owned (by siblings Antoine and Anna Malassagne), the house’s holdings include 11 ha (27 acres) of Chardonnay in Grand Cru Chouilly on the Côtes des Blancs. Ploughing the soil, grassing the alleys (for low yields) and near-organic HVE-certified viticulture and winery practices. This is 30% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier from Chouilly, Bisseuil and Damery; reserve wines 35%. Base 2013. Dosage 0 g/l. Rather herbal, even medicinal nose. Pretty and round. Quite enough fruit to support zero dosage with real grip on the palate. Strong aspirin element! No shortage of character… Drink 2019 – 2024 16.5 +

Lombard, Extra Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Different range from most houses. This is their cheapest wine. Gives disgorgement date on the back so it's a 2015 base. Refreshing and crisp even if relatively simple. Well balanced. Drink 2019 – 2023 16

Lopez-Martin, Carte d'Or Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

A little muted and sweet. Could do with more freshness. Rather simple, and chewy. Drink 2019 – 2020 15.5

Nicolas Maillart, Platine Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Nicolas Maillart is technically a négociant (NM) house not a ‘grower’, but buys grapes only from his family, and cultivates all the domaine himself. Replanting is mass selection from the estate, not bought-in clones. Quite a far-flung domaine, 18.5 ha (46 acres) in total, based in Écueil but in Bouzy and Villers-Allerand too. An emphasis on sustainability and certified HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale). Winemaking with stainless steel and oak. Barrels come from the Bize-Leroy Domaine d’Auveney in Burgundy. Production about 150,000 bottles and no fruit sold to houses. Founding member of the Artisans de Champagne group. This is 70% Pinot Noir, 24% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier. Base 2012, 37% reserves. 50% barrel fermented. Partial malo. Bottled 2013. Disgorged November 2016. Dosage 6 g/l. Magnum. Mid straw. Really dense and throbbing. Much less austere than most. Flattering without being sweet. Good length. GV? Drink 2018 – 2023 16.5

Minière F&R, Influence NV Champagne

Brothers Frédéric and Rodolphe Minière (hence F & R) only began to sell their champagnes in 2014 and made their own wine from only 3 ha (7 acres) of their 8 ha estate in Hermonville, north of Reims. The rest of the grapes were sold off but they are expanding each year from their current 25,000 bottles per annum. Frédéric worked for a time with Anselme Selosse and everything is barrel-fermented in various sizes of oak and held some 8 months on lees before bottling. Over half their vines are 40–70 years old. This is 35% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, all from Hermonville. Base 2012 (85%), remainder 2011. Barrel fermented and 100% malo blocked. Dosage 5 g/l. Sweet and slightly oaky on the nose. Not quite knit, with the acidity sticking out a bit awkwardly. Maybe it just needs time? Drink 2021 – 2024 15.5 +

Bruno Paillard, Première Cuvée Extra Brut NV Champagne

Base 2014, because there’s a 2018 disgorgement date on the back label – Bruno Paillard was a pioneer of this. Neat, focused nose. Quite grippy on the palate but with excellent balance; well-judged dosage. And some length. Drink 2019 – 2022 16

Palmer & Co, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Poured from magnum, a blend based on 2011. (Bottles are curently based on 2013.) So far they have not yet managed to put any information on the back label but it is under discussion! Good evolution on the nose. Big and bold and pretty aggressive mousse but with more layers of flavour than most. Interesting! Drink 2018 – 2023 16

Joseph Perrier, Cuvée Royale Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2014 I'm told, although no way for the consumer to tell. Loose and frothy-textured. No faults but no great concentration or finesse. Drink 2018 – 2020 15.5

Perrier Jouët, Grand Brut NV Champagne

Probably base 2015, ‘Our brand ambassador has mastered the art of deciphering lot numbers’. Very fine mousse. Straightforward, rather sweet and chewy blend. Punchy but not refined. Drink 2019 – 2021 15

Bernard Pertois, Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV Champagne

Rather attractive development on the nose. Flirtatious with quite a bit of dosage. This would make an easy drink at a reception. Not much undertow or body but a very nice nose. Drink 2018 – 2020 16

Philipponnat, Royale Réserve Brut NV Champagne

Brilliantly informative back labels give base year (2013) and the percentage of reserve wines (about 30% in 2013). Quite rich but with confidence and personality. Not especially fine but convincing, with good persistence. Drink 2018 – 2021 16

Piper-Heidsieck, Cuvée Brut NV Champagne

Based on 2014. Very correct and lively. Quite an eye-opener for me who has in the past not associated Piper with great quality. Broad and mouth-filling with some maturity. On the right track. Drink 2019 – 2022 16

Pol Roger, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

The end of the blend based on 2013 with 30% from the previous three vintages but still no way of knowing for the consumer – yet. Though the 6- bottle cases do give an indication of disgorgement date, 'for serious consumers'. Interesting, putty nose – very distinctive. And this doesn’t seem particularly sweet, perhaps because there is so much else going on. Well done! Drink 2018 – 2023 16

Pommery, Royal Brut NV Champagne

Very defensive about not citing a vintage 'because it's made from a blend of many'. Quite a savoury nose but awfully sweet on the palate. Tight and tense. Lots to chew on but well put together. Drink 2018 – 2020 15.5

Eric Rodez, Dosage Zéro Ambonnay Grand Cru NV Champagne

An eighth-generation Ambonnay family; Eric is mayor of the village. He trained and worked in Burgundy before becoming an assistant winemaker at Krug, then taking over his own domaine in 1984. As he puts it, ‘vinified terroir by terroir, in barrel’, he makes over 60 vins clairs separated from 36 parcels by vine age and location. Reserves can reach 70% in some cuvées. Herbicides and synthetic fertiliser were stopped in 1989 and he has been organic from 2002 and biodynamic since 2008. Winemaking combines barrels and stainless steel (used for a few first fermentations) and uses both for storing reserves. Malolactic is generally blocked but not rigidly. He has been joined since 2014 by his son Mickael. This is 30% Chardonnay, 70% Pinot Noir, from 9 lieux-dits parcels. 48% 2010, 25% 2009, 16% 2008, 8% 2006, 3% 2005. 5% enamelled steel tank, 95% barrel fermentation. 75% of malo blocked. Bottled spring 2011. Disgorged November 2017. Dosage 0 g/l. Palest pink tinge. Subtle but intriguing nose. Very zesty and fresh. Not too testing despite the zero dosage. Well judged and very appetising. It’s all on the finish rather than on the nose. Drink 2018 – 2024 17

Louis Roederer, Premier Brut NV Champagne

There's a QR code on the back. If you have the app you can scan it and learn full details. Based on 2015 (they have just moved on from 2014). A greenish tinge to deep straw colour. Some real depth on this nose with all the elements building on each other. Really is superior! Great harmony and nothing out of place. Incredibly persistent. Bravo! Drink 2019 – 2024 17

Jacques Selosse, Initial Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV Champagne

Blend of Avize, Cramant and Oger. 100% Chardonnay. Three consecutive years 2011–2013. 5 years on lees approximately. Wild yeasts. Dosage 5g/l. Deep golden straw. Very distinctively savoury on the nose – broad like a bold (not modern and austere) white burgundy. Hits the very back of the palate with umami and Marmite. Real weight and real length to this. Tastes bone dry but not painful. Drink 2018 – 2023 17

Jacques Selosse, Version Originale Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Grand Cru NV Champagne

As with the Initial Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV, but more Avize and from the steeper mid-slope parcels, this is a blend of Avize (about 45%), Cramant (30%) and Oger (25%). Again, made from three consecutive years’ wines 2011–2013. 5 years on lees. Dosage 0 gl. Rich nose. And even an edge of decay on the palate. Just a bit too developed for me. No pretence at champagne’s refreshment factor! Pretty chewy and bone dry on the end. A ‘natural’ champagne? Drink 2019 – 2021 16

Jacques Selosse, Substance Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV Champagne

A ‘solera’ cuvée featuring every vintage from 1987. From two Avize parcels, one south-facing and a down-slope east-facing site. New vins clairs are fermented in new oak before addition to the solera which is in big old oak and one steel vat. 22% is then bottled each year for the new edition. 5–6 years on lees. Dosage 4g/l. Deep gold. Really developed nose. Positively pungent! Rich and flatteringly broad. Dry finish but with sufficient weight and freshness to counterbalance the weight of fruit. Substance indeed! Only just sparkling but very good, and extremely persistent. Drink 2018 – 2026 17.5

Taittinger, Réserve Brut NV Champagne

The pourer thought this is base 2014 but wasn’t certain. Quite a bit of sweetness almost covers the slight astringency. Not that interesting or refined. Workmanlike, and just a tad too sweet. Drink 2019 – 2020 15.5

G Tribaut, Cuvée de Réserve Brut Premier Cru NV Champagne

Quite lacy and fresh. Nothing wrong with this. Good direct attack even if not that dense. GV Drink 2019 – 2020 15.5

Vazart-Coquart, Extra Brut Grand Cru NV Champagne

Jean-Pierre Vazart has 11 ha (27 acres), all of it in Chouilly on the Côte des Blancs. All of his wines are therefore Blancs de Blancs Grand Cru Chouilly. He is the third-biggest land-holder in Chouilly, although some way behind Moët and Louis Roederer! His wines are made completely in stainless steel, for ‘purity’ as he says. The estate is HVE-certified and in conversion to full organic status. This is 100% Chardonnay. Base 2014, plus 5% 2013, 5% 2012 and 25% ‘solera’ reserve begun in 1982 (by Jean-Pierre's father) and renewed each year with 40% of the new harvest. Malo done. Bottled March 2015, disgorged September 2018. Dosage 3.5 g/l. Bright lemony straw colour. Attractive hint of putty on well-integrated palate. Really creamy and beautifully balanced. None of the extremism that is sometimes to be found in Extra Brut wines. Rather difficult to spit. Really very appealing. Drink 2018 – 2023 17

Veuve Fourny & Fils, Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Premier Cru NV Champagne

Run since 1993 by brothers Emmanuel and Charles Fourny. Nearly every wine made here is from Vertus, from 76 separate parcels in this premier cru village at the southern end of the Côte des Blancs. The domaine went from grower-producer (RM) to négociant (NM) in 1979. More than 10 ha (>25 acres) are owned, supplying about 50% of needs. A mix of tanks and wood is used, in total over 200, 228-litre burgundy barriques. This is 100% Chardonnay. Blend of Vertus and other premiers crus. Vines over 40 years old. 75% stainless steel, 25% in barrel. Three consecutive vintages blended. 20% reserves. Dosage 0 g/l. Rather heady with floral notes. Broad and quite chewy. Not overtly Chardonnay – heavier somehow than most. Workmanlike rather than inspiring. Very slightly stodgy. But certainly well intentioned. Drink 2019 – 2023 16

Vignon Père & Fils, Les Marquises Réserve Brut Grand Cru NV Champagne

Represented by Finest Fizz (MD Howard Abernethy), based in Wandsworth – a seven-year-old company importing a clutch of grower champagnes. Some evolution on the nose but a bit pinched on the palate. Apple skins. Hard pressed. Drink 2019 – 2020 Imported to the UK by Finest Fizz 15

Vilmart, Grand Cellier Premier Cru NV Champagne

Laurent Champs has run this family estate in the Montagne de Reims since 1989 when he took over as the fifth generation. He uses complete barrel fermentation in a range of sizes, and malo is routinely blocked. High proportions of Chardonnay are used here, unusual given the Montagne’s general reputation for Pinot Noir. All 11 ha (27 acres) are in Rilly with small parcels in Villers-Allerand too. This is 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Base 2015, plus 50% reserve wines. All from Rilly, lieu-dit Les Hautes- Grèves. Fermented in large oak caks and ageing 10 months before bottling. Dosage 8 g/l. Very fresh and aromatic. Really quite delicate. Definitely transparent in a 21st-century style. Rather distinctive. But not that long. Drink 2018–2023 16.5