[From Schenckius: Obseivationum medicarum, Francofurti, 1603.] ANNALS OF MEDICAL HISTORY

New Series, Volume IX March, 1937 Number 2

THE POET KEATS’ TRIP TO SCOTLAND JULY, 1818

by SIR ROBERT ARMSTRONG-JONES, C.B.E., M.D., D.L., ES.A.

LONDON

TI IS fitting and Keats undertook his tour, as he a p p r o [3 r i a t e stated, “to give me more experience, —when cultured to rub off more prejudices, to identify and intellectual [i.e. to support his previous concepts] people, as well finer scenes, to feel the effect of grander as students, and mountains and stretch thus my reach workers of all in Poetry.’’ It was after the publication sorts, as also of the “Endymion’’ in April, 1818, that sportsmen are he and his friend, Charles Armitage thronging across Brown, started in June for their walking the border into Scotland—that the visit tour in Scotland. Keats took with him a of a most memorable poet should be copy of Dante and Brown carried a once more referred to, although it took pocket edition of Milton. [jlace in July 1 18 years ago, i.e. in 1818. Keats’ brother George was married Wordsworth loved Scotland and Keats on May 28 to a Miss Wylie, to whom had an admiration for the interjjreta- Keats dedicated an acrostic ode, and tion of Nature by Wordsworth. Both the newly married jxair immediately [X)ets possessed the “mountain senti­ left for America. They were met by ment’’ and the “love of mountains’’ Keats and Brown at Liverj^ool where played a large j^art in the poetry of the mutual farew’ells were exchanged. age of WMrdsworth. It was this “moun­ The two tourists left on June 24 by tain power’’ that drew Keats to Scot­ coach for Lancaster to find that there land, especially as he had hoped on his Avas a general election going on. 'They way to meet the older [)oet and also to stayed the night and were rip at four do homage to the memory of Burns, A.M. the next morning (June 25) , the Shakespeare of Scotland, for whose ready to start for the Lake District. Rain jjoetry Keats had an unbounded ad­ delayed their starling until seven a.m. miration. “When the rain subsided into a Scotch mist, we chose to consider it appropri­ erations of Langs, all buried in the local ate to start.” As they reached Winder- churchyard. mere and Ambleside, where they stayed On the way to Dumfries the two another night. Brown wrote that as the travellers passed through Annan, the prospect burst upon their gaze, it caused birthplace of Edward Irving (three Keats to stop “as if stupehed by the years older than Keats) who was noted beauty.” Keats said that “although the later as the Founder of the “Holy Apos­ scenery was hne human nature was tolic Church.” He was expelled from hner.” More rain interfered with their the Scottish Church by the Presbyte­ intended ascent of Helvellyn, but they rians. Nearer to Dumfries, they passed were better favored with the climb of Ruthwell, where is the most famous Skiddaw in Cumberland. From the sculptured cross in Scotland, inscribed Lake District (where they watched with a poem from Caedmon. Further dancing by the local folk at Ireby), they on, they passed Cummertrees, noted walked via Keswick and by Treby and afterwards for the reference in “Red Wigton to Carlisle, which was reached Gauntlet.” Keats described this journey on June 30, a distance from Lancaster as “bleak and moorish with wind-swept of about 70 miles. distances.” He wrote: “I know not how As the country between Carlisle and it is, but the clouds, sky and houses all Dumfries was through the lowlands of seem anti-Grecian and anti-Charle- Scotland, it was not deemed to be in­ magne-ish,” probably implying that teresting to the admirers of mountain they were unromantic. Stevenson later scenery and they decided to travel by described this landscape as “a puddle coach, with horses that “took a hellish of cold, old, grey hills.” heap of drivin’,” a distance by road of In Dumfries, which they reached on 38 miles. On the tenth mile from Car­ July 1, the day of the Horse Fair, Keats lisle, they passed through Gretna Green, was surprised to see the 'women bare­ then (1818) comprised of only the footed, but carrying their shoes and church and a few cottages, just over the stockings in their hands. Whilst at Dum­ Scotch border, and much in vogue for fries Keats visited the tomb of Burns. the convenience of runaway couples, Burns died when Keats ^vas a year old who could be legally married according and was buried, at first, in St. Michael’s to Scotch law by a simple declaration Church (erected 1745) : before two witnesses. At that time about The to'wn, the churchyard and the setting 700 marriages took place there every sun year. In 1856 an Act (introduced by The clouds, the trees, the rounded hills all Lord Brougham) made it compulsory seem for one of the parties to reside in Scot­ Though beautiful, cold—strange—as in a dream. land for twenty-one days previous to the wedding. As a result, English Later his remains were removed to a couples no longer availed themselves mausoleum (1815) which is built in of the local ceremony. A fee of hve shil­ the form of a Greek temple, contain­ lings had to be paid to the officiating ing a sculptured group by Turne- “priest,” who was a blacksmith belong­ relli depicting the Muse of Poetry find­ ing to a family named Lang, whose ing Burns at the plough, which Keats Registers dated back to the eighteenth did not admire; “It is not very much to century, having been kept by four gen­ my taste.” Keats also visited the house in Bank Street (Wee A’ennel) into some of the finest scenery in (ialloway. which Burns went in 1791 from the Fhey passed on towards Ckistle Doug­ farm at Ellisland, and also the house las through beautiftd country to Kir­ in Burns Street (Milbrae) into which kudbright, where they stayed the night he moved two years later, and in which —at what inn, Colvin states, is uncer­ he died in 1796. Burns’ Howff, i.e. his tain; some say the Black Inn, near the favorite resort (now the Cilobe Hotel) “Meikle Yett,” perhaps the King’s was also visited. In addition Keats paid Arms, near the 'Folbooth and the Ca'oss, a visit to Lincluden Abbey, now in the favorite resort of Burns. Fhe next ruins, and dating from the twelfth cen­ day, fidy 5, they passed from Kirkud­ tury. It was formerly a convent of the bright through Anworth on by the Benedictine nuns, but was suppressed Chatehouse of Fleet along the well- for “irregularities.” It was founded by wooded coast road, leaving Cairnsmore Uchtred, l.ord of Galloway, and the (2331 feet), and through the Cree \'al- present ruins date from the fourteenth ley, made famous by Burns, to Newton century. “There’s a joy in every spot StcAvart. made known in times of old.” 'Fhen across the low-lying Wigtown­ On July 2, they left Dumfries, and shire Country by Cdenluce to Stranraer. started their walks in Scotland. Dum­ Stranraer stands at the head of Loch fries is now the chief commercial centre Ryan. In this district are the best of South West Scotland. Turning to the farms and the best black cattle in Scot­ left over the ancient bridge across the land, not unlike the Polled Angus type. Nith they went through Maxwell Fhis is now an area of contentment as l own, and walked towards Dalbeattie, compared with the past when strife, through the fertile valley of the Urr, hostility and hatred existed between flanked by rocky heights, then, as now, the Border families. Stranraer in Keats’ well wooded. The view southwards af­ time was a cluster of cottages, but is fords the distant prospects of the moun­ now a town of 7000 inhabitants. It is tains of the Lake District, and a long a great passenger port on the shortest vista of the Solway Firth. To the north sea way to Ireland (Ulster) . It is also are the round-topped fells of Galloway an important agricultural depot. Stran­ and Dumfries. Criffell (1886 feet) is raer is about seventy miles by rail from in the distance to the south east. Dal­ Dumfries, but the route taken by Keats beattie, about 27 miles from Dumfries, would probably be a hundred miles, is noted for its shining grey granite and the route by road on foot is the used in more modern days to build the least known, although the most varied Thames Embankment. and the finest walking tour in the south The next walk was from Dalbeattie west of Scotland. up a hill to Kirkudbright which was Keats found Ireland a strange coun­ reached on July 4. On the way from try—some of it is so still. He said the Auchencairn, the Guy Mannering scen­ people were poor, “the nakedness, the ery, where Keats stopped to write let­ rags and the dirt and misery of the ters to his sister Fanny, enclosing old poor common Irish” made a deep im­ ballads on Meg Merrilies (Brown’s pression on his sensitive and artistic practice was to write letters whenever mind, Fhe children in the streets “were they stopped to rest) there is a steep jabbering as if in an unknown lan­ hill (where they probably rested) with guage,” and the condition of the cot­ tages was deplorable, “the Scottish cot­ of the marine spleen wort. From here is tage was a palace to an Irish one.’’ He the best view of Ailsa Craig, 10 miles found the charges made for comfort, out in the sea. Keats wrote of it in the exorbitant and prohibitive, and their inn at Girvan: plan to visit the Giant’s Causeway had Harken thou Craggy ocean pyramid to be abandoned owing to the cost. When were thy shoulders mantled in huge Their trip was thus a short one, for streams they were back at Stranraer having Their life is but two dead Eternities crossed to Ireland from Port Patrick to The last in air the former in the deep. Donaghadee on July 5, and from there From Girvan they walked, “rather they only walked to and from Belfast, sore-footed,” via Kirkoswald to May­ for it “horrified’’ them. They thus con­ bole and came on to “bonny Doon,” tented themselves with a tour of three “the sweetest river I ever saw,” and so days in Ireland, including coming and to Burns’ cottage and two miles farther going and they were back in Port Pat­ to Ayr. rick on July 8. It was at Port Patrick It was here that Keats paid his hom­ that Keats wrote his reproof and cen­ age to Burns, the greatest of Scotland’s sure of the kirkmen—“who had banned poets, for whose genius and memory puns, laughing and kissing.” “The Keats had a great admiration. He re­ barefooted Scots Lassies, poor little garded Burns as the greatest lyrical Susannahs they will scarcely laugh and poet of the world. No one, in Keats’ their kirk is greatly to be damned.” opinion, could so clearly and deeply From Stranraer Keats took the road portray the passion of the moment— for Ayr, walking at hrst about 8 miles whether it be wonder, patriotism, love along the picturesque road which hugs or any other mood, and this with the the coast of Loch Ryan, then passing most melodious charm. Cairn Ryan. Towards the end of this road at the head of the Loch with its Burns, with honour due strikingly hne scenery of rugged and I oft have honoured thee. romantic rocks on one side, and the Yet can I ope the window-sash to find deep open sea on the other, there came The meadow thou hast tramped o’er and o’er into view the island of Ailsa Craig, Yet can I think of thee till thought is blind. which rises sheer to 1140 feet and looks close at hand although 15 miles away. When visiting Burns’ cottage at Kirk It is the home of sea birds and is Alloway near Ayr, he drank some croAvned by a lighthouse. Further are “toddy” to Burns’ memory, but he was seen the magnihcent dark mountains intensely disgusted with the flippant of the Isle of Arran, but to which Keats and casual habit of the guide and care­ makes no reference, although he was taker, “a mahogany-faced old Jackass deeply impressed by Ailsa Craig. who knew Burns. He ought to have Crossing the Galloway Burn into the been kicked for having spoken to him.” rich county of Ayrshire, the road leads Keats was not in an “inspired” mood slightly inland along the now finely and “wrote a bad sonnet” in Burns’ wooded Glen App, with Carlock Hill cottage. to the left, and on towards Ballantrae, From Ayr the two travellers went to then past Castle Ardstinchar above the Glasgow through rain which detained road to Girvan, the indigenous home them for a time, but they reached it on July 13. Both Keats and Brown the resemblance of a cobbler at work. reached Cdasgow rather the worse for 'This road curves round the upper end wear and not at all “bien soignes.” They of Loch Long and leads to the entrance tvere stared at in Olasgow where they to a noted wild mountain pass, Cilen- were “taken for peddlars in spectacles croe (17 miles from Inverary), an im­ and razors,’’ but Keats saw as much as pressive and sombre glen, which begins he wished in two days, after which he about 2 miles farther and where Keats left Glasgow on Jnly 15 for Dumbarton, said that the only sound was from run­ the hill of Bretone, a distance of 15 ning water, the sheep and the shep­ miles. Here St. Patrick was born, and herd’s dogs. 'Fhe glen is steep towards hence Mary Queen of Scots left at the the summit which rises to 860 feet. age of six for the Court of France to be .At the top is a stone inscribed: “Rest educated at the Palace of St. Germain. and be thankfid,” referred to by W’ortls- From Dumbarton the travellers went to worth, but which the travellers hoped the Loch Lomond country, either bv was a convenient place to refresh. Fhey walking along the picturescpie west were disappointed and unhappily had coast of the Loch from Renton and to travel several miles farther before Alexandria, or proceeding from Bal- finding a convenient and suitable spot loch by steamboat, which even then for breakfast. was available to tourists in the summer; 'Fhe road continues for about 7 miles this latter is the route accepted by the and then descends towards Cden Kin- late Dr. G. H. Morrison in the Me­ las (grey-head) to Cairndow (fourteen morial Volume, but not by Amy Lowell miles from Farbet) . It then makes a cir­ nor by Sir Sydney Colvin in his “Life cuit round the head of Loch Fyne, a of Keats.’’ In any case the walkers ar­ lake described in the remote past as rived at the northern end of Loch “one part water and two parts fish.” Lomond, having walked, we assume, 'Fhe road here passes round an armlet. along the western edge of the lake via Loch Shira. Fhe ruins of Dunderave Luss to Tarbet. Keats’ only complaint CLastle (celebrated as Doone Castle) are was of the noise (not the music) of the seen, after which Keats reached Inver­ bag-pipes. He repeated his dislike of the ary (24 miles from Tarbet, and 40 miles national instrument at Inverary: “I from Oban) , the chief town of .Argyll­ thought the brute would never have shire where stands the solid and im­ done.” posing castle which is the Highland From Tarbet, at the upper end of home of the Dukes of .Argyll. Loch Lomond, the route to Inverary Dr. Johnson expressed his favorable (24 miles) lay across the narrow opinion of Inverary for he was well isthmus which separates this fresh supplied there with food and drink, his water lake from the salt water Loch first whiskey-toddy, and Keats must Long. They walked to Arrochar, a dis­ have been e(|ually pleased for the food tance of 2 miles. This route affords a had hitherto been of some concern to near view of the “Cobbler” (2891 feet) , both travellers. Also, there were here a mountain locally referred to as “Ben some poetical reminiscences of Burns, .Arthur,” which is a striking feature of though not too flattering to the inn. the landscape, for Nature, approving of Fhe view from the (juay at Inverary af­ an employed artisan, has left on the forded most pleasing prospects of the mountain top as a permanent record mountains between Lochs Fyne and Long, though one of them was described iuoch Graignish, 15 miles Iroiii Oban, as a natural imitation of “an old man’s where they had a view of the many face.” islands (Keats mentions Long Island) It Avas when approaching Inverary on in the Firth of Lorn, then crossing the July 17 that Keats had the unpleasant Barbreck river to Kilmelfort. Having experience of gadfly bites whilst bath­ walked up the Melfort Pass and up ing in Loch Fyne, which not only kin­ Glen Euchar to Kilnin ver they reached dled his wrath, but also roused the Loch Frochan; then by Dunauch—with Muse within him. a glimpse of Goylen on the South East of Kerrera, they arrived in soaking rain The gad-fly he hath stung me sore— May he ne’er sting you. and very tired at Oban where they rested. From Inverary on July 19, Keats and From Oban they had hoped and were Brotvn walked up Glen Aray which most eager to visit Staffa and Iona, sail­ reaches 675 feet high and descends at ing round the north coast of the island Tay-na-faed towards luOch Aavc, a river of Mull, but the fares were exorbitant loch 23 miles long, so winding and (Keats wrote seven guineas would be narrotv that not much extent of water expected), and the exchequer of the can be seen at any one time. The Loch tourists did not permit this expendi­ has been described as “solemn.” The ture, so they decided to walk across the islands and shores do not justify this, island to the Sound of Iona, and then as it has nothing wild or majestic go by the Ferry at Point Fion to Iona. except perhaps the mountain of Ben They crossed over at Oban to the island Cruachan (3870 feet) in the distance. of Kerrera on July 23 and from there The Loch tvas reached at Ardbrechnish to the nearest landing place on the Mull (about 30 miles from Oban) then past coast, Auchencraig. From here they Port Sonachan and along the wooded Avalked across the whole length of the shore, the “old road” from Dalmally, island, a fatiguing tramp, taking the for 20 miles tOAvards Ford at the lower southern road from east to west. This end of Loch Awe, which is 30 miles road was a 35 mile journey. They were from Oban. It was on this journey that wet through and had to stop the night Keats’ companion suffered from the in a shepherd’s shelter where the air walker’s bane, blistered feet, the one was saturated with peat smoke. The common disabling factor which only road taken from Auchencraig was by too frequently delays the Avayfarer and Ardafoilfort, the Lussa glen along Glen it is probably due to this that they both More and Craig, then by the foot of rested for a couple of days at Oban. Mount Gniban and through Caerin- Having passed the edge of Loch Awe by loch. Penny Ghael to Bunessan and to the Falls of Blairgowr, and Ardconnel, Iona Sound and across the Ferry to the where the Campbell’s slogan: “It’s a far noted ruins of the Cathedral in Iona, cry to Loch Awe” originated, and far­ with its nunnery, monastery and col­ ther on the ruins of Fincham Castle, leges founded by St. Columba. This formerly the stronghold of the MacDon­ famous island of over 2000 acres was alds, the travellers next reached Ford first named I-Kolm-Kill (meaning I at the south end of the Loch. From Ford the island, Kolm St. Columba and Kill they walked the next day towards the the cell or church) . The ruins were of coast up a steep hill, Kintraw Brae, to absorbing interest to Keats. Fhese romantic ruins are still the re­ litpiid lava, which cooled and crystal­ sort of pilgrims, and present a mixture lized into basaltic pillars of hexagonal of different styles of architecture, the shape, forming the walls of the caves, earliest dating back to the tenth cen­ of which Fingal’s is the most famous. In tury, although Columba landed about many instances the cap or top has been 563 A.n. rhe island is treeless but a lost through the dentidation of sea and third of it is under cultivation. It had air; in other caves the manure of sea about 200 inhabitants when Keats vis­ birds and the stray seeds of herbage ited it and still has the same. In Iona have helped to form a grassy cap over the travellers saw, what they had heard the roofs. about, the graves of sixty-one Scottish, From Staffa, Keats and Brown suc­ Irish and northern kings, all formerly ceeded in finding a boat to take them lying in orderly rows. They had also, back to Mull (for Oban) along the doubtless, heard the story of 300 crosses coast of Loch-na-gael, the Loch Gyle of having been placed in the graveyard, “Ford Ullin’s Daughter,” and by walk­ but of which “the Presbyterians had ing across the isthmus, most of it a deer destroyed all but two,” and these to forest, this would shorten the return Keats’ chagrin were covered with moss land journey by more than one-half as and lichen. Keats added they were compared with the outward southern guided by “an old local schoolmaster, route. They would probably be landed an ignorant little man but reckoned as in the bay near Killichronan as the most very clever.” From Iona the two ener­ accessible spot, and from here would be getic, but weary, travellers were able a good view of Ben More (1832 feet) . to get a boat to the island of Staffa, Walking by Torosg to Salen along the which is uninhabited, and whose coast north coast past Duart, a boat would be is only 1 p2 miles in circumference. available here for Oban. Keats was awe-struck by the wonderful Mull, 300 miles round and with its natural phenomenon described as Fin­ chief town of Tobermory, noted for gal’s cave, “this cathedral of the sea.” memories of the Spanish Armada, Keats wrote of the cave; where a sunken Spanish galleon led to hopes of great treasure, was in Keats’ Not Aladdin magian Ever such a work began . . . time, as it is now, one of the most at­ Ever such a dream could see . . . tractive parts of the Highlands, but This was architectured thus there were no roads in Mull in 1818. By the great Oceanus . . . Now the island has good roads with And of the ocean he writes: good surface and there are more sign posts and guide directions in Mull than Here his mighty waters play in almost any other part of Scotland. Hollow organs all the day. Mull has over 7000 inhabitants, and The sound of the sea in the cave in there are many legends connected with stormy weather may be heard 6 miles its romantic scenery, its deep lochs and away in Iona: the rugged rocks along its shores. The 'I’he ocean, wdth its vastness, its blue green island is a land of cascades and water­ Its ships, its rocks, its caves, its hopes, its falls, the rivers pitching themselves over fears— the cliffs near the shores in white foam. Its voice mysterious. Fhe rising hills, the grassy slopes, the In archaic times, volcanoes belched out steep mountains, the bays and head­ lands must have fascinated Keats Avho before starting, yet undaunted and de­ loved Nature. Although the northern termined, he and Brown journeyed on part of the island is comparatively low, foot towards Fort William, a distance the western and southern are noted for of 40 miles, but the walk along the coast their strikingly precipitous and mag­ of Loch Linnhe was comparatively level nificent cliffs. The Maclean’s Castle at most of the way. the head of Loch Buie is one of the Leaving Oban on July 28, after rest­ Highland homes of the Clan, whose ing “for a day or two,’’ they passed the head, recently passed away, was a vig­ ruins of Dunollie Castle and turning orous centenarian, and McGorrie’s north-eastward they passed, on the point (a little to the west) is the spot promontory to the left, another ruined associated with a legend that, having castle, Dunstaffnage, since restored by been wrongly punished by Maclean the Sir Duncan Campbell. This castle was Laird of Loch Buie, McGorrie, leapt one of the most ancient in the kingdom into the sea and was lost, with the of Scotland. It was also the original young heir of Maclean whom he had place of the Coronation Chair, before lured away. It is claimed by some that it was removed to Scone and later to this is the spot referred to in the “Ode Westminster Abbey. Proceeding to- to a Nightingale’’ as having “charmed Avards Connel Ferry and across Loch magic casements, opening on the foam Etive Avhere there is a good view east- of perilous seas in fairy lands forlorn.’’ Avards of the twin peaks of Ben Cru- A similar claim is made for the ruin of achan (3870 feet), they walked to the Goylen on the island of Karrera, on Banderloch peninsula, and near the the reported opinion of the late Pro­ coast they passed an interesting Ro­ fessor W. P. Ker, but neither ruin has or mano-British fort, Beregonium. Walk­ had casements and the “Enchanted Cas­ ing on towards Loch Creran, which tle’’ by Claude Lorraine (1600-82), they crossed at Shian Ferry, they now in the Wantage Collection, is more reached Appin, the highest part of the likely to be the original referred to by road. On the other side from Oban and Keats. looking seawards, they would pass the It was Keats’ exhausting journey green island of Lismore, noted for pos­ through Mull with its rain and damp sessing the original of a collection of air (Dr. Johnson described it as wet and poems in Gaelic and English, also at one rainy and worse than Skye) its com­ time the home of the Bishop of Argyll. fortless and cheerless resting places, the From Appin they advanced “in best being in smoky shepherds’ huts, broken weather’’ to Ballachulish on and also the innutritions and unpalata­ I.och Leven and crossed the Ferry to ble food that loAvered the vitality of Onich, and then to Corran, where the Keats and started a laryngeal irritation, straits are narrow, and where there is a so favouring the tuberculous invasion dangerous rush of water at the return­ which eventually proved to be a fatal ing tides. Having passed numerous illness. It is not too great a slander upon small glens (Glen Rie, Glen Tarbert Mull to state that it ruined Keats’ and Glen Nevis) they reached Fort health. William. Keats left Oban feeling fatigued and The country around Fort William wearied after his serious cold in Mull. Avas then known as Lochaber. It was The travellers rested for a day or tAvo noted for Clan jealousies and differ­ ences. In consecpience, there were fre- William, as is well known, lies on the (jiient changes in the lordship of the old military road to Inverness and this territory. Fhe rivalry bet^veen the was the road taken by Keats. It was con­ Campbells in the north, the MacDon­ structed in 1726 by Field Marshall alds and the Camerons in adjoining Cieorge Wade in an attempt to (piell the areas made this part of Scotland a dis­ turbulent Highlanders. turbed and lawless district. It may be Passing northwards from Fort W’il- added that the ancient Scottish chief­ liam (so named by Wade after King tains were themselves little better than William iii) , by the Ckistle of Inver- brigands. They plundered and stole, de­ lochy, which was the original name, stroyed and killed when they had the there are two ways to Inverness: either chance to get anything, indeed when­ the road (66 miles) , or the water way ever there was any material advantage (60 miles) along the Caledonian Canal, to be gained from their neighbours. itself extending 22 miles, which was From Fort William, which Keats and commenced in 1804 by Telford, but not Brown left on August 2 (Keats having completed until 1822. So Keats, al­ somewhat revived after his illness in though still ill and une(jual to the task Mull) they undertook to climb Ben owing to the “throat cold” con­ Nevis (4406 feet)’. tracted in Mull, had to use the road, and it took them four days to reach Should I rather kneel Upon some mountain-top until I feel Inverness, whereas the steamers today A glowing splendour round about me hung. carry the mail from Inverness to Oban in twelve hours. Fhe road from Fort They did not succeed for they “groped William runs along the north side of and struggled in a toilsome mist.’’ Keats Loch Lochy (10 miles long) to Loch was disappointed and “as the cloud on Oich (4 miles) where it crosses and the top wafted away” wrote: keeps to the south until it nearly Read me a lesson Muse and speak it loud reaches Fort Augustus (so named by Upon the top of Nevis blind in mist, Wade after the uncle of Ceorge 11) I look into the chasms and a shroud vapor­ where it again re-crosses to the north ous doth hide them ... I look o’erhead side (the preferable road to take) , and . . . mist is spread. runs the whole length of Loch Ness (26 miles) to Inverness. By the water route and sitting on a stone showing a tre­ there are eight locks in 8 miles from mendous precipice into the valley be­ Fort William to Loch Lochy with a rise low he finished: of 63 feet to Fort Augustus and here ... all my eye doth meet there are five more locks with a further Is mist and crag, not only on this height rise of 50 feet. But in the world of thought and mental Proceeding north from Fort William might. along the water route, the canal is en­ It had then no road nor path as exist to­ tered at Banavie and the steamers today day, the weather wa.s unfavourable, in­ pass along “Neptune’s stairs” to Loch deed on clear days the ascent of Ben Lochy, past (xairlochy, on the opposite Nevis even to those in vigorous health side of which are the falls of Mucomer. was an arduous, toilsome and hard task. Further north (about the middle of Keats had expressed his feeling of fa­ Loch Oich) is Invergarry, a fine ruin tigue, yet the attempt was made. Fort and formerly the home of the MacDon- iiells. The mountain ranges on this part sional knowledge of the disease that he of the journey including Ben Nevis in himself was suffering from, he made the distance are strikingly beautiful and arrangements to return to London. Keats felt this on his walk. Whilst waiting for a sailing ship at In­ Farther north, beyond Fort Augustus verness he was advised to go from Cro­ is Loch Ness, which is so deep (800 to marty as a more expeditious route and 900 feet) that its waters never freeze in in order to avoid the two ferries of winter, where masses of grey perpen­ Kessock and Invergordon, -where there dicular rocks rise sheer from the dark was often a long and tedious wait, Keats depths and -where in summer the over­ walked to Beauly, where there is an hanging trees afford a leafy shade, ancient ruin of an Abbey dating back added to these the romantic traditions to 1230, and thence to Conon Bridge of Prince Charlie during the period of over the river and towards Fortrose (10 1745, all help to make this one of the miles from Cromarty) in the Black Isle, most wonderful districts of Scotland. then to Rosemarkie, with its Celtic On the north side of Loch Ness are two Cross and Cromarty, the ultimate des­ glens, Invermoriston and Castle Urqu­ tination of his altered trip and the end hart, both with rivers flowing into the of his Scottish pilgrimage. Here in the Loch through wooded glades. Between country of Hugh Miller, where there is these two glens, but on the opposite a commemorative statue, Keats regret­ side, are the Falls of Foyer, and whether fully parted company with Brown and by road or by water the way leads to embarked on a “smack” for London on Muirtown, a part of “the capital of the August 9. He was on the sea nine days, Highlands,” viz., Inverness, which was arriving at Hampstead and into the care reached by Keats on August 6. He had of Mrs. Dilke on August 18, 1818. Mrs. travelled 642 miles on foot since leav­ Dilke described Keats’ arrival in the fol­ ing Lancaster on June 25. lowing words: “He arrived here last Whilst at Inverness, Keats’ health be­ night [August 18] as brown and as came seriously impaired, the laryngeal shabby as you can imagine, scarcely any catarrh became aggravated and symp­ shoes left [he had walked 642 miles toms of tuberculous disease of the lungs appeared, with the usual fever accom­ from Lancaster], his jacket all torn at panying consumption. He consulted lo­ the back, a fur cap, a great plaid, and cal medical advice, with the result that his knapsack.” It was at this time that he was peremptorily ordered to return Keats first met Fanny Brawne. to London, which he did, although he I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness had intended passing through Edin­ to Mr. F. Edgcumb, the curator of the burgh and paying visits to acquaint­ Keats Museum in London, for many help­ ances on the way including the Rev. ful suggestions, also to the various works Benjamin Bailey, who then held an in­ in connection with the life and works of cumbency in Cumberland, and was Keats, notably those by H. B. Forman, afterwards Archdeacon of Colombo. Sir Sydney Lee, Lord Houghton, the With personal experience and profes­ Memorial volume and others.