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Home , Isle of Arran, Menteith, Sleeping Warrior

e h T ISSUe TWeNTY FOUR • WINTeR 2016

INSIDe Melodies of Spotlight Guest Speaker the Rhine on Arran Joanna Macpherson

By appointment to HM The Queen Provision of cruise holidays on Hebridean Princess All Leisure Holidays Ltd, trading as Hebridean Island Cruises THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

CONTENTS

News in Brief Ilkley Literature Festival 4 Crew News

Historic Castles and Glorious Gardens 5 New Guest Speaker

View from the Bridge Captain Trevor Bailey 6-7

Spotlight on Arran 8-9

Melodies of the Rhine 10-11 Adrian Finnerty

To Sea Again 12-13 John Noorani

Meet the Team 14-15 Caz Palmer, 1st Officer 12-13 10-11 Competition 16

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2 Cover image: Red Deer, WINTER 2016

Welcome to the Winter 2016 edition of The Hebridean Times

As the festive season approaches we reflect on what has been another very successful season. Hebridean Princess has returned to her winter home in and will soon enter dry dock for her annual refurbishment. As many of our crew return to their homes for a well-earned rest, our engineers are hard at work as they spend the winter servicing and undertaking essential maintenance to ensure that everything is shipshape for our first cruise in 2017.

Our Captains are also kept busy over the winter season as they become involved in itinerary planning for 2018, ahead of the brochure being launched in the spring. Highlights of the 2018 season will include a return to the south coast of England, the Channel Isles and the northern coast of France for a series of exciting cruises, including new visits and destinations. We are constantly striving to keep our itineraries fresh and appealing to both new and returning guests, so our 8-9 Scottish cruises for 2018 will also include a number of new themes and maiden ports of call.

This issue of The Hebridean Times includes a feature on the , a regular port of call in our spring and autumn cruises on the Clyde and, for those of you who are interested in cruising the great waterways of Europe, guest speaker Adrian Finnerty looks forward to the Melodies of the Rhine cruise which he is accompanying in May next year on board Royal Crown .

I should like to thank loyal guest John Noorani for his contribution to this issue, you can read about many of his favourite sights on pages 12 and 13. John also provides a regular supply of photographs for our online Cruise Logs when he is on board for which we would also like to extend our grateful thanks.

On behalf of the Captains, Senior Officers, Ship’s Company and all our shore-side staff, I should like to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a healthy, happy and prosperous 2017.

Louise Pratt Hebridean Times Editor 5

www.hebridean.co.uk 3 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

NEWS IN brIEf

The Ilkley Literature Festival is held over 17 days at The first took place on Thursday, 13th October where the the start of October in the miniature Victorian spa featured author was renowned celebrity chef Hugh town of Ilkley, just a stones throw from hebridean's Fearnley-Whittingstall. A small group of Hebridean guests head office in the neighbouring town of Skipton. The enjoyed a drinks reception with canapés in Ilkley’s Winter festival is supported by Arts Council england Gardens, ahead of Hugh's informative talk relating to his Yorkshire and Bradford Metropolitan Council. latest book 'A to Z: Our favourite ingredients', a compendium of ingredients a resourceful and modern Over the last forty years innumerable famous authors have cook may wish to use in the kitchen. passed through its doors - from international figures and Nobel prize winners to poets, broadcasters and journalists. Saturday, 15th October saw Hebridean's second sponsored There have been residencies, literary walks, discussions, event, with the popular geographer, writer and commissions, workshops, exhibitions, performances and broadcaster Nicholas Crane. Nicholas provided an insight moments of high drama. into his new book, 'The Making of a British Landscape: From the Ice Age to the Present'. Outlining the history of For the past 8 12,000 years of British landscape, the book traces the years Hebridean story from melting glaciers of the period Island Cruises through major landscape events such as the Black Death, has been a enclosures and urbanisation. Once again Hebridean guests proud sponsor were invited to a drinks and canapé reception before of the festival taking their front row seats of the balcony at the Kings and this year Hall, Ilkley. sponsored two fascinating We are delighted that Nicholas will be joining our year of talks. History, Heritage and Archaeology cruise commencing 26th September 2017. View from the balcony, Kings Hall, Ilkley

CReW NeWS

We are delighted to announce that 1st Officer Caz Palmer has successfully achieved her Masters Certificate of Competency Unlimited, more commonly known as the ‘Masters Ticket’, the professional qualification required for mariners to serve as the Master of a commercial vessel.

Caz will be a familiar face to many of our guests as she joined Hebridean Princess over 2 years ago.

Chief Operating Officer Ken Charleson commented, “I should like to congratulate Caz on her achievement. We continue to provide training, development and career progression opportunities for our loyal officers and crew and will support Caz as she gains the experience and confidence she will require to further her career with Hebridean Island Cruises.”

You can read more about Caz and her seafaring career to date in our Meet the Team feature on pages 14 and 15. Caz before her Masters exam

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NeW GUeST SPeAKeR

Scotland boasts an abundance of castles and the are no exception. Several islands of the are home to fascinating structures dating back many centuries. Scottish gardens are a delight to visit at any time of the year and are famous for their clear air and profuse flowers. The west coast of Scotland is influenced by the giving milder temperatures which enable great displays in spring and early summer of rhododendrons, camellias and magnolias.

We are delighted to announce that Joanna Macpherson, star of the recent BBC Scotland series Lady Lairds, will be joining this cruise as guest speaker.

Joanna moved to her family’s estate, Attadale on the shores of Loch Carron in , 4 years ago taking her husband Alec Cormack with her. They had both lived and worked in London until then. Attadale had belonged to her Joanna Macpherson grandfather so she has always spent holidays there since a baby. Having studied History and Russian at university, she ended up in magazine publishing

Gairloch in London, working on a wide variety of titles from Classic Cars Magazine to Inverewe Garden Flight International and finally running the advertising sales on both The English Dunvegan Garden and The English Home magazines. This proved a useful training ground Dunvegan SKYE Castle Kyle of for ending up in the Highlands of Scotland attempting to help run a large estate Armadale Attadale Gardens Armadale with a 20 acre garden, four holiday cottages and approximately 30,000 acres, Castle RUM mostly wild country, including two Munros and a lot of red deer. Kinloch Castle MUCK Attadale Gardens play host to one of the visits on this cruise. Started by Baron Schroder in the late 19th century, hill paths meander through 20 acres of Lochaline Ardtornish Estate Garden conifers and rhododendrons. Totally transformed after the 1980 storms by Lip na Cloiche MULL Garden Craignure OBAN owner Nicky Macpherson, Joanna’s mother, it is an artist’s garden designed to Iona Abbey frame the magnificent views of Skye and the surrounding hills. Ardfern Arduaine Joanna will give us an insight into the running of the Attadale Estate, the Colonsay House JURA Garden Gardens making of the Lady Lairds documentary and the organisation ‘Discover Scottish Gardens’, a network of gardens which have come together to promote their rich diversity, a number of which we will visit on this cruise.

hISTORIC CASTLeS AND GLORIOUS GARDeNS Departing from Oban 20th June to 27th June 2017 Accompanied by Joanna Macpherson Prices from £3,995 per person based on 2 people sharing an inside double/twin cabin Attadale Gardens

www.hebridean.co.uk 5 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

Captain Trevor Bailey Trevor (left) on board the Liverpool to Dun Laoghaire ferry

t about the same time that the was being converted to become Hebridean Princess , I was working on a ferry of similar vintage operating between Liverpool and Dun Laoghaire in AIreland. We were experiencing a number of problems with the controllable pitch propellers and the bow thruster, such that we needed to take tugs to assist with our arrivals and departures. One morning, on arrival into Dun Laoghaire, there was a string of rapid instructions to the tugs, some of which were contradictory, not to say confusing - one of the tug skippers was heard to say in his best broad Dublin accent “Which way’s he **@!!** going now?” - the expletives have been deleted to protect your sensitivities, but I am sure you will get the general drift.

With the unusually windy weather that we have seen On that same cruise, as we headed back to home territory, during the late summer and autumn, similar thoughts will I inadvertently provided great amusement to all on board have crossed the minds of some of our guests and, for when I managed to lock myself out on to the balcony at Pursers Louise and Valerija, this must have been Reception shortly after 0100 hrs. As we had cleared the uppermost in their minds every time Captain Richard Pentland by this time, I had just come off the Bridge Heaton or I suggested that we might need to change the but could hear an annoying knocking sound: this was a itinerary. I cannot vouch for the inclusion or exclusion of steel door that was not totally secure, rattling as the ship the expletives, but I sincerely thank them for their patience rolled gently and I went outside to secure it. Little did I and for their knowledge and expertise in arranging the expect that the balcony door would close behind me and alternatives at such short notice and with such good grace be locked as it did so. Fortunately it was not a cold or wet and humour. night. When Vadim (AB) returned to the Bridge for his lookout duties at 0200 hrs, his face was a perfect picture Our ‘out of area’ cruising this summer took us back to the as heard the Captain knocking on the door when and Islands and, to the great delight of all, everybody else was safely tucked up in bed! we managed to land at on each occasion that we were scheduled to do so. Given that landing there is Once back to Oban, it was ‘business as usual’ and we spent notoriously challenging, this was very satisfying. In my several cruises out towards the Western Isles - particular own case, we owe a great debt of thanks to the residents favourites of mine. Yet more amusement for crew and of the island who welcomed everyone late into the evening guests alike when we achieved a beach landing at as, inevitably, we had changed the scheduling but we , probably the finest spot for a beach landing made it! anywhere. The seemingly benign conditions allowed for

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Business as usual back in Oban Trevor unceremoniously dunked Beach landing, Mingulay

walks on silver sand, with an audience of 25 to 30 seals, reached the terminal building and, for many of them, there apparently very intrigued, but accepting of our intrusion was the added pleasure of watching the ship come into their space. As the morning progressed, intermittent alongside - not an event that they normally witness from swells rolling onto the beach tested the skills and strength the shore. of the beach boat coxswains and the beach party. I had The end of the season is almost upon us and I am sure that volunteered to be there on the beach party that morning we all wonder where the time has gone. As the nights and, as I was unceremoniously dunked and resurfaced with become longer, we have been treated to some very my lifejacket inflating, I am only surprised that more people impressive sunrises and sunsets and I am sure that I speak did not fall into the water laughing! for everyone on board when I say that we have had a most Probably a further highlight of the Outer Isles cruises was enjoyable season for 2016 and we are looking forward to the unexpected opportunity to send our guests to the 1st ‘doing it all again’ in 2017. Just as importantly, we look anniversary celebration at the Harris Gin Distillery, while we forward to seeing so many guests yet again and to repositioned the ship from . As we approached welcoming both new and familiar faces on board our very the berth in East Loch Tarbert, our guests had already special little ship. Haste ye back!

Fair Isle www.hebridean.co.uk 7 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

ARRAN fÑÉàÄ|z{Oàf teÉn reÇ ferred to as ‘Scotland in Miniature’ due to the remarkable diversity of its landscapes, the Isle of Arran is the seventh largest, and one of the most southerly Scottish islands, lying in the .

Although culturally and King’s Cave is a seafront cave near which physically similar to the was formed where isostatic change resulted in a raised Hebrides, Arran is beach. is said to have sheltered here separated from them by when returning to free Scotland from the English; the cave the peninsula. The is also said to have been occupied by Fingal, Fionn MacCaul. Boundary Fault Castle played a prominent part in the island’s between the Highlands medieval history and is one of Scotland’s most battle- and Lowlands of Scotland scarred castles which has been rebuilt many times. The site divides the island almost exactly in two; the north is of the ancestral seat of the was a fortress ruggedly mountainous and sparsely populated, the south is even in Viking times. It was captured by English forces softer, more undulating and home to the majority of the during the Wars of Independence before being taken back population. The highest point on the island is Goat and by Scottish troops in 1307. It was badly damaged by action the profile of the northern hills viewed from the from English ships in 1406 and sustained an attack by John coast is known as the ‘’ due to its of Islay, the in 1455. Originally a seat of the resemblance to a resting human figure. Clan Stewart of , ownership of the castle passed Arran has two smaller satellite islands; Holy Isle is a two through various hands before it came into the possession mile spine almost blocking the entrance to Bay, of the Hamilton family in 1503. The castle is said to have creating a natural sheltered harbour, which houses a retreat several ghosts, the most benign figure usually seen in the and meditation centre for Buddhist monks from Samye library wearing breeches, a long green jacket and a Ling in Eskdalemuir. island lies a mile off Kildonan powdered wig! and is the haunt of seals, seabirds and some rarer migrant The walled garden at dates from 1710 and has commuters. been restored as a Victorian garden; the woodland garden contains one of Europe’s finest collections of Arran has been continuously inhabited since the early Rhododendrons. In the Country Park you can explore the 11 period and the fascinating remnants miles of waymarked trails among waterfalls, gorges and of the Moor Stone Circles and surrounding wildlife ponds. The castle and grounds, together with nearby prehistoric burial cairns can be explored on the west coast are owned by the National Trust for Scotland. of the island. From the 6th century onwards, the Irish Scots colonised the island and it became part of the lies 2 miles southwest of the northern headland, Kingdom of Dalriada. During the troubled , Arran the Cock of Arran, and is the largest settlement in the north became the property of the Norwegian crown before of the island. is a romantic ruin on the becoming formally absorbed by the kingdom of Scotland in tidal flats dating from the 13th century and is reputedly the 13th century. The 19th century clearances led to where Robert the Bruce landed on his return from Rathlin significant depopulation and the end of the Gaelic Island. Lochranza is also home to the only working language and way of life. distillery on Arran where you can enjoy a tour of the visitor centre and tasting of a wee dram.

‘Sleeping Warrior’ and brodick bay

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“ bArD

Hebridean Princess - brodick Castle ” Arran is renowned for its wildlife and many are a common sight. Red deer are numerous on northern hills and there are populations of otter, red squirrels and badger. Offshore there are common seals, harbour porpoises, basking Holy Isle sharks and various species of dolphin. Over 200 species of birds have been recorded on the island including black guillemot, eider, and . The warm Gulf Stream gives Arran a rich and unusual plant life and nothing indicates the mild climate more than palm trees thriving outdoors. Hebridean Princess is due to visit the Isle of Arran on the following cruises in 2017:

CLYDe ISLAND exPLOReR 1st to 6th March 2017 hIGhLIGhTS OF The FIRTh OF CLYDe 6th to 10th March 2017 lochranza Castle RUINS AND RAMPARTS OF The LOWeR CLYDe 10th to 14th March 2017 AGALLAMh NA SeNORACh

VOYAGe ROUND KINTYRe TO OBAN Arran of the many stags, 14th to 21st March 2017 The sea strikes against her shoulders, FOOTLOOSe TO The CLYDe Companies of men can feed there, 24th to 31st October 2017 Blue spears are reddened among hOUSeS AND CASTLeS OF The CLYDe her boulders. 31st October to 7th November 2017 Merry hinds are on her hills, hIGhLIGhTS OF The FIRTh OF CLYDe Juicy berries are there for food, 7th to 11th November 2017 Refreshing water in her streams, CLYDe ISLAND exPLOReR 11th to 16th November 2017 Nuts in plenty in the wood. AN ANCIENT IrISH POEM Prices from £1090 per person based on 2 people sharing an inside double/twin cabin.

www.hebridean.co.uk 9 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

`MuSxICÄÉAwL |HxIáG ÉHyL IàG{HxT eS {|Çx

by Adrian Finnerty Royal Crown Guest Speaker

The areas around the Rhine have been a veritable goldmine of musical inspiration throughout the centuries. It was home to one of the earliest known figures in the history of music, hildegard of Bingen. Abbess, author, mystic, writer, musician and medic, hildegard was also one of the most influential medieval composers and one of the earliest named composers whose music has been preserved and is performed today. Adrian finnerty

During the eighteenth century, Mannheim was home to the Schumann composed his third Symphony, ‘Rhenish’, Mannheim School of Composers, of which the leading after a trip to the Rhineland with his wife, Clara. The figure was Johann Stamitz. Introducing musical features, solemn fourth movement was inspired by the installation such as the Mannheim Crescendo and the Mannheim of a cardinal at the Roman Catholic cathedral in Cologne. Rocket, Stamitz and his contemporaries exerted a huge Renowned as a highly respected seat of learning, influence on the development of the symphony. Heidelberg university, founded in the 14th century, was also One of the greatest composers the setting for Sigmund Romberg’s operetta ‘The Student of all time, Beethoven, was Prince’, immortalised in the 1954 film featuring the voice of born in Bonn, making his first Mario Lanza. public appearance as a pianist The Lorelei, a rock on the eastern bank of the Rhine, is there at the age of seven. His associated with several legendary tales, poems and songs. grandfather was the Philipp Friedrich Silcher, a folksong collector and composer, Archbishop’s Kapellmeister wrote many songs of which his best-known is ‘Die Lorelei’. and his father was a singer in Several other composers were inspired to write songs the Kapelle of the Archbishop- based on the Lorelei legend, including Schumann, Elector of Cologne. The young Mendelssohn, Liszt and Beethoven became involved in even Gershwin. the flourishing musical life of the court, playing the organ The Rhine is also one beethoven Monument and the viola as well as of the settings for teaching and composing. Throughout his life Beethoven Wagner’s ‘Das associated himself with the aristocracy, including Count Rheingold’, the first Ferdinand von Waldstein to whom he later dedicated his opera of his epic ‘Ring’ ‘Waldstein’ Sonata. cylce. The story opens and ends underneath Following in the musical footsteps of Beethoven, Brahms the Rhine, where three seemed to be the natural heir to the Classical tradition. Rhinemaidens swim However, while his music does follow very much in the and protect a hoard of orderliness and discipline of the Classical style, it is gold. The Rhine is essentially lyrical and Romantic in feeling. During stays at indeed a musical his summer house in Baden-Baden Brahms worked on goldmine flowing with some of his most important compositions, including the melodies. first two Symphonies and the ‘German Requiem’.

lorelei Statue, rhine Gorge

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The Rhine is indeed a musical goldmine flowing with melodies

SICA Arnhem to Strasbourg U L Arnhem M NETHERLANDS Melodies of the rhine I N T TERES on board Royal Crown

R h i n Brussels e Friday 5th May to Friday 12th May 2017 BELGIUM 7 nights including 2 Gala Dinners Cologne Bonn GERMANY A musical voyage along the picturesque Rhine Boppard Rhine Eberach Monastery Valley to the fringes of the Black Forest. Luxembourg Gorge Main P Mainz

e ll Mannheim P e Travel Plan – 7 nights s o Heidelberg M Friday 5th May - Accompanied flight from London r e FRANCE a in a h Baden-Baden S R Heathrow to Amsterdam and transfer to Arnhem.

ube Saturday 6th May - A city tour of Cologne takes us to the Strasbourg Dan famous cathedral, still standing proud after being hit by Vienn 14 large aerial bombs during World War II, ahead of our visit the Beethoven’s house in Bonn where we enjoy a private recital. Sunday 7th May - Boppard is known as the ‘Pearl of the Rhine’ and here we explore on foot before our afternoon cruise of the uNESCO World Heritage Site of the Rhine Gorge. Monday 8th May - Today we discover the beautifully restored half-timbered houses and Baroque churches of Mainz Old Town and travel to the Eberbach Monastery for Heidelberg a wine tasting. Returning to Royal Crown , the renowned concert pianist Fumiko Shiraga performs on board. Tuesday 9th May - At Mannheim Palace we enjoy a recital Hebridean Highlights by a local string quartet ahead of our visit to the romantic ruins of Heidelberg Castle and tour of • beethoven’s House, bonn the Old Town. • Cruising the rhine Gorge Wednesday 10th May - A walking tour of Baden-Baden is • Eberbach Monastery a perfect way to explore its Baroque-influenced • String Quartet in architecture or there is the opportunity to visit the house Mannheim Palace where Johannes Brahms spent his summers between

• Strasbourg Canal Cruise 1865 and 1874. Thursday 11th May - Our final day is spent in the French beethoven’s House, bonn city of Strasbourg. A panoramic canal cruise allows us to admire the uNESCO World Heritage Site of the Prices per person Brochure New Fare Fare Grande Ile and we sample the local Alsace wines at a tutored tasting. Twin Cabins Deluxe Cabin £3,200 £2,880 Friday 12th May - From Strasbourg we are transferred to Double Cabins Premium Cabin £4,140 £3,275 Zurich airport for the return journey to the uK. Royal Suite £5,550 £4,995 Single Cabins Deluxe Cabin £5,200 £4,680 www.hebridean.co.uk 11

THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

TO SEA AGAIN By John Noorani

There’s a rattle at the letterbox and a thump as a The formalities are complete, I have been summoned, it is large white plasticised envelope hits the floor. It time to walk up the gangway, and at the top familiar faces, has a Skipton postmark, it can mean only one Louise, Caz, Iain, Sergejs, Louis, Deniss, Doreen, too many to name, and not forgetting Angus playing the bagpipes. thing – a ‘fat lady’ beckons. They welcome me back like an old friend and I am shown How to get to her – Queen Street tunnel is closed for to my home for the duration. electrification works with diversions via the Low Level and It is 19:15, all the drills are complete. The Captain is on the routes not normally served by passenger trains, I have got Bridge Wing taking one last look at the pier, the crew are to make use of this opportunity. by the winches, the linesmen at the bollards. Captain rings It is Monday night, platform 1 at Euston, the 23:55 Sleeper ‘Slow Ahead’ on the Engine Room telegraph, and calls ‘Let to Edinburgh awaits the ‘Off’. I am comfortably tucked up Go For’ard’ then ‘Let Go Aft’. There is a roar, the Crossleys in bed, there’s a slight lurch as the brakes release and the come to life, with a churning of water we’re off. We move locomotive takes the strain. We’re off. We slow as we round sedately through Oban Bay, NLB vessel Pole Star is waiting the canted curve at Watford and stop at the station, then close by, anxious for us to clear so she can berth. We pass under way and into Watford Tunnel. It seems like only the Hutcheson Memorial at the tip of , Captain rings moments later we slow again, but it is daylight, a glance ‘Full Ahead’ on both engines, which immediately respond, out of the window reveals distinctive buildings on the followed shortly after by ‘Full Away’ and the engine skyline, we are approaching Carstairs Junction. Now on the tachometer goes up to 400 rpm – we’re cruising. line to Edinburgh, breakfast arrives, next stop is Edinburgh It is time for dinner in the Columba Restaurant; I am shown Waverley, it is good to be back in Scotland. But I have an to my table and introduced to fellow guests, some of appointment in Oban, so a train via Falkirk High to whom are old acquaintances. After an excellent meal we Glasgow Queen Street Low Level, via the Annisland adjourn to the Lounge to discover what the diversion is next. programme is for tomorrow, will it be as scheduled, or The indicator board on the platform at Queen Street shows changed because of weather? the next train is for Oban and Mallaig, that’s for me. We We are in Bloody Bay to the north of Mull, the anchor is head east through Bellgrove to Cowlairs, then west, to down, the land of nod calls, it is the end of the day and I Westerton, shortly the Clyde comes into view; at fall asleep dreaming of what delights await. Craigendoran it’s north as we climb alongside Gare Loch, I awake as it is getting light, a glance out of the porthole then Loch Long. There’s a puffer on the loch trailing black suggests it is going to be a sunny morning, but not yet, I smoke – have we gone back in time? can stay in bed another hour, it is only 4 o’clock, but it is not to be. The telephone rings, it is 1st Officer Caz from the Bridge, there is a large pod of dolphins around the ship. Within five minutes I am dressed and there, with camera at the ready, but there is not enough light and they are moving away so I watch them for half an hour. They are jumping clear of the water, and beating the surface with their tails, no doubt fishing. It is an excellent start but no pictures. Eventually they move off towards the open sea, it Hebridean Princess , Oban is time for a cup of tea. Returning to the deck, the sun has just cleared the hills of We are past the stone signals in the Pass of Brander, no and illuminating the detail of the cliffs of sign of the ospreys, now Loch Awe is on the right, I am Mull. Time for photographs, but the quietness of the almost there. As we run into Oban the view is blocked by morning is disturbed by croaking ravens as they mob a lorries waiting for the Outer Isles – is she there? Walking buzzard on the moors – they are closer now, that is no across the ferry marshalling area, relief – there she is, one buzzard, it is a golden eagle, and I haven’t got my of Hall Russell’s three 1963 built ‘fat ladies’. Hebridean telephoto lens. A couple of quick shots then a dash to the Princess has come to take me away from this ordinary cabin for it. They are still there, and getting closer. The world, what sights will she show me this time? eagle is flying along the cliff, and lands amongst some bushes. We have anchored opposite the nest site! 12 01756 704704 WINTER 2016

It is 06:30, the anchor is being hauled, we’re off, past Leaving Stornoway we head north, Orkney bound. There is Ardnamurchan lighthouse and north. Through the Narrows more of a swell on the sea, nothing the ship cannot handle, at Kylerhea, with the last classic Scottish turntable ferry after all she was built for these waters. One marvels at the operated by the Glenelg Community, then on to the Skye judgement of fulmars and Manx shearwaters as they twist Bridge. and turn, skimming but not touching, the ever changing Inverewe Garden holds a special treat, we are arriving at surface of the sea. Off Cape Wrath the water appears to be the pier in Loch Ewe, and the heron chicks are nearly half boiling as the different currents meet, well named one grown. With the telephoto I can get really close to them. thinks, then remember that Wrath has its origins in Norse for ‘Turning Point’, so a coincidence. We are heading out into , there will be all the usual birds, but anything else? It is a flat sea, ideal for spotting Cetaceans. A quick word with Hotel Manager Iain, a Orca, Scapa flow Thermos flask of lunchtime soup is It is a misty day in Scapa Flow with intermittent drizzle. We quickly arranged are off Hoxa Head, the Pilot points and says ‘there’s a fin’. and I will stay up on We look. There are more than one, and too big for a the Bridge Wing. A dolphin, could it be – yes it is, a pod of orca. We slow, they black fin breaks the are unperturbed by us. There are five, two with distinctive surface, then again, fins. We watch for twenty minutes, and many pictures are Common dolphins and gannets and again. It is a taken. The pod is later identified as regular travellers . between Iceland and the west coast of Scotland, of the There are gannets diving ahead of us, must be a shoal of two with distinctive fins, one was first seen in 1999, the fish, but there is too much splashing. Look closer, there are other is believed to be her offspring. dolphins as well, breaching and twisting, thrashing the sea. We are going ashore again. I have been travelling around We go within a hundred yards. the Highlands and Islands for the past 50 years, this is an We are close to the Shiant Isles now, seabird numbers are important day as it is rare now that I set foot on an island I huge. Then, as we cruise the cliffs there is a white-tailed have not been to before. Although now uninhabited, unlike sea-eagle, no two, three eventually four. The ship stops, we many Scottish islands this abandonment was relatively watch spellbound. recent, in 1962. Although only 2 miles north of John O’Groats on the Scottish mainland, the strong currents of We arrive at Stornoway mid afternoon and a coach waits the Pentland Firth made this a very dangerous crossing, to take us to the . We are virtually the only resulting in the islanders frequently being cut off. Welcome visitors. Why are these stones here, what were they for and to Stroma. With great skill the ship is anchored, the Hardys who used them? Did they just serve the local inhabitants or are launched and we are off to explore this ‘time capsule’ did people travel over the sea, if so in what vessels? Even and its wildlife. today The Minch can be treacherous, how much more so for the basic vessels they would have had? Where did they We are back at sea, very misty land – Loch Roag opens onto the Atlantic, did they walk with a disturbed surface. Is it across the island? We know the climate was milder then worth staying outside - wait but even so it would have been a hazardous journey from what is that grey shape, it is the mainland – so many questions to speculate on. Now on not a wave. The camera is on to Broch. it. It’s a minke whale which launches itself into the air. Yes, I will stay outside. Minke Whale And so our journey comes to an end. What sights I have seen, what memories I will take away. My lovely ‘fat lady’ has done me proud. But she is part of a bigger team, the Captain, the deck officers, the Chief Purser and team, the housekeeping and waiting staff and the boat crew. Equally important but unseen are the Chief Engineer and his officers and crew, the chefs and kitchen staff. Then there is Ken, Jonathan and the Skipton team, to whom all sorts of Callanish Stones, Stornoway vital tasks fall. My thanks to you all. How was it used, without a water supply it could not I am now back home waiting for another plasticised withstand a siege, but it dominates the skyline and the envelope and the summons from my favourite ‘fat lady’ to stonework is exquisite. What did the inhabitants make of come and join her on another adventure. until then I will the Callanish Stones, two thousand years older than the have to be content with my pictures and memories. Broch, or had the peat engulfed them by then? So much to Note: Whilst all the events were recorded on Hebridean Princess cruises, think about. they do not come from the same trip.

All Photographs by the Author www.hebridean.co.uk 13 My interest in the sea started at 2 years old MEET THE TEAM C“az Palmer, 1st Officer

In 2012 I had gained enough sea experience to tr”y for the Chief Officer Exam. I am proud to say that I was one of the I was born and still live in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. first few from my degree course to pass for Chief Officer, I My childhood was a happy one with many was also the first woman to get through. summers spent on holidays in exotic locations. I had grown tired of life on the ‘big ships’ by this point and Being given the opportunity to travel from a wanted a change. A good friend of mine suggested young age was certainly a factor in the decision Windstar Cruises (5 star sailing cruise ships). So 4 days after to spend my life at sea. passing the Chief Officer exam I joined the Windsurf in Amsterdam (It is definitely a small world as I took over from I was lucky to attend Tunbridge Wells Girls Grammar School another Hebridean Princess Officer, the now 2nd Officer where my favourite subjects were geography and PE. I Dan Smithsbury). I was promoted after a few months to played as many sports as I could at school with hockey and 2nd Officer on Windstar and had a fantastic 2 years sailing football being my favourites (I once volunteered to do a the Caribbean and Mediterranean on their 3 sailing yachts. cross-country run just to get out of a Maths test that I In the summer of 2014 I decided it was time for a change hadn’t studied for!). In my later school years I also assisted and having seen a lot of the world, I wanted to explore a bit in coaching the younger girls, had I not gone to sea then I closer to home. I got very lucky as I had only really been would have wanted to be a teacher. looking for 24 hours when I received a call about a job I joined my local Sea Cadets unit at the age of 13, this proved opening for 1st Officer on a ‘small but elegant ship which to be one of the best decisions of my life as it not only mostly cruised the Scottish Isles’. I sent my CV and the rest, opened my eyes, but gave me skills and confidence which I as they say, is history. still use today. I am still in the Sea Cadets at Westerham unit, however now I am an Instructor, but it is still a huge part of MASTER MARINER my life. One of my proudest moments was standing next to My aim had always been to the Captain of HMS Ark Royal and bugling a solo fanfare as get my Captain’s licence HRH Princess Anne stepped on board. (and as a personal challenge As I understand it, my interest in the sea started at 2 years do it before the age of 30). old. The story goes that I was on a beach when a ship sailed The last 6 months has been past. I tugged my mother’s sleeve and said “Mummy I want pretty much work, sleep, eat to drive that.” and study. Captains Richard My earliest memory is being on a ferry crossing the English Heaton and Trevor Bailey Channel at night, I must have been less than 7 years old, I have been mentoring me remember being outside with my dad, lots of lights from ever since I arrived here, not other ships around. There was a man on the Bridge looking just in ship handling but in smart in shirt and tie, assessing the surroundings with management, leadership and binoculars. I decided that I wanted to know what he knew, decision making. In my own time I have been studying and so my fate as a deck officer was sealed. revising everything from ship stability, meteorology, and I started at Warsash Maritime Academy in September 2006 cargo operations to ship certification, emergency response as a cadet with Carnival uK. The training lasted 3 years and and how to correct a magnetic compass. included college and sea time. My sea time included trips on On 22nd September the make or break day arrived. Entering Artemis and Aurora (P&O), Star Princess (Princess Cruises) the coastguard building is nerve racking to say the least, but and the QE2 (Cunard). One of the highlights was being on after several gruelling hours, the examiner said the most the QE2 for her 40th anniversary cruise. beautiful words “Congratulations Captain, you have passed.” I qualified as an Officer of the Watch in 2009 and went to A lot of people are asking me what happens next but for the Princess Cruises as a 3rd Officer. Over the next 3 years I first time in my life, I have no idea. At the moment I am just was lucky enough to sail the world in these giant ships with enjoying the feeling of achievement, and for the first time highlights including Asia (China, Japan and Singapore), not knowing where I am heading. I am looking forward to the South Pacific islands, Alaska, Suez Canal and challenges that the future will undoubtedly bring and I face Northern Europe. them with a renewed sense of confidence and expectation. 14 01756 704704 WINTER 2016

Which are your favorite ports or islands visited whilst working onboard Hebridean Princess ? ULVA – It seems so quiet and serene. Sheila’s cottage is also well worth a visit. IONA - The first time that I visited here was in 2014, driving the speedboat I was at one point surrounded by a pod of dolphins who escorted me ashore. That memory will stay with me forever. – From Fingal’s cave to flocks of puffins, I can see why the island has inspired music and poetry. MUCK – The cakes! HARRIS – Beautiful beaches and untamable scenery. I have also heard a lot about its past from one of the ABs on board (Alick). The stories from his youth give me a glimpse into a history and way of life that one can almost still feel when visiting FAIR ISLE – The puffins were incredibly tame, I was able to get within a few meters and they did not flinch. (Geiranger Fjord particularly) – One of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen. OBAN – A quaint little town that somehow reminds me of home. It is always a good feeling when we arrive back here after a long winter, with many months of cruising ahead of us. Can you tell us about your most memorable moments onboard Puffins, fair Isle Hebridean Princess ? The last 2 years have been filled with memories, and there are a lot to choose from. • Completing the Ice Bucket challenge in a glacial fjord in Norway • Learning to manoeuvre the ship under the guidance/watchful eye of Richard, Trevor and Chief Officer Dave Kirkwood. • Earlier this year whilst in ulva, a guest was nervous about getting into the speedboat, but her husband really wanted to go. We compromised and did a slow run in the boat looking at the scenery and wildlife along the coast of the island. Slowly her confidence grew until she let me up the speed. She told me later that it had made her cruise just being able to get into the boat. I don’t think she realized that being able to help her overcome a fear Caz’s family visiting Hebridean Princess in Dover also made my cruise. • Guide Pat Cannings teaching me to dance one evening in the Tiree Lounge. What makes working onboard Hebridean Princess so worthwhile? Easy question – the people. Returning to the ship after time at home is like coming back to a second family. The guests all embark with smiles and a sense of anticipation, many of them I have had the pleasure to get to know over the last few years and it is always great to see familiar faces. As for the crew, I am proud to work with such a talented, hard-working and friendly group of people. The atmosphere is probably the best that I have experienced in my career and I think it would be hard to beat. I would say that it is the crew who are the number 1 asset of the ship. When you are back home on leave, how do you like to spend your spare time? The last few leaves have not been typical as most of my time has been taken up with study! I am close to my family and we spend a lot of time together, often getting together for dinner and enjoying quiz games afterward. My friends are also important to me, though I prefer small gatherings rather than crowds. I generally prefer being outdoors, whether sailing, rowing or walking in the Kentish countryside. My other love is football. Manchester united obviously being the number one team. Ice bucket challenge

www.hebridean.co.uk 15 COMPeTITION QUESTION

In keeping with the theme of our centre spread article and to test your knowledge of Scottish history, please answer the following question: In what year did Robert the Bruce spend Christmas at the hall of Glenkill near Lamlash on the Isle of Arran?

Please send your entries by post to the address below, or by email*, together with your name and address, to [email protected] by Friday 30th December 2016. Three winners will be randomly selected from all the correct entries and will each win a Hebridean Goody bag which will include a copy of the DVD ‘A ’ starring Neil Oliver.

Caption Competition in issue 23 Our thanks go to everyone who entered the caption competition in the last edition, there were some very amusing and imaginative suggestions which gave our panel of judges, including Dave Indge himself, a few giggles but also a very difficult task in selecting the winners. The winning captions are shown below the pictures and their creators were each rewarded with a bottle of hebridean’s own label malt .

A B

Will: “ I don’t know why they want a picture of us on bikes.” Rare Hebridean Purser’s paddle discovered David: “Just be glad we are not wearing our kilts.” amongst historical memorabilia. Danny Morgan of York Christine Burgess of Ilkley

C D

Dave tells one too many of his after dinner I was asked to report to the ships kipper! jokes and finally gets pilloried for it. Alan Brace of Holcombe David Eames of Mansfield

* Please note email addresses may be used for marketing purposes. If you would prefer not to receive email communications from Hebridean Island Cruises, please state this in your entry.

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