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A ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 497

A ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 497

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 498 Achmelvich 382 Arran, Isle of 160-5, 161 activities 20, 482-3, see also Arrochar 279 individual activities art galleries actors 470-1 Art Gallery 249-50 adventure sports 339 Aird Old Church Gallery 396-7 171 An Tobar Arts Centre 307 air travel 489-90 Arran Art Gallery 164 ales 462 Broughton House 178 Alford 262-3 114-15, 116 Alford Valley Steam Railway 263 58 Alloway 169 267 Alyth 233 Contemporary Arts 238 4 Abbeys Cycle Route 152 An Iodhlann 313 FJD Fergusson Gallery 217 7stanes 181 Androssan 162 58 1745 House 298 Angus 236-47 Gallery An Talla Dearg 397 accommodation 234 Gallery of Modern Art 103 climate 234 Glenlyon Gallery 225 A food 234 abbeys Hawick & Art Gallery 150 highlights 235 Arbroath Abbey 243 Hunterian Art Gallery 112 travel seasons 234 Crossraguel Abbey 171 Museum & animals 475-6 Art Gallery 319 Culross Abbey 204-5 175-7 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Dryburgh Abbey 148 Anstruther 213-14 112, 113 Dunfermline Abbey 205 316 Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery 57 388-9 206 Inchcolm Abbey 96 aquariums Loch Fyne Gallery 287 Abbey 311, 462 Deep Sea World 204 McLean Museum & Art Gallery 137 Abbey 151 Aquarium 275 429 Kelso Abbey 152-3 Macduff Marine Aquarium 267 Queen’s Gallery 57 Melrose Abbey 146, 27 Marine Life Aquarium 425 63 Paisley Abbey 139 St Andrews Aquarium 207 Scottish National Gallery 62-3 Sweetheart Abbey 174-5 Arbroath 243-5 Scottish National Gallery of Abbotsford 148-9 Modern Art 64-5 Arbroath smokies 243 Scottish National Portrait Aberdeen 247-56, 248-9 archaeological sites, see also Pictish Gallery 64 accommodation 252 symbol stones, prehistoric sites, activities 249-52 standing stones & stone circles St Monans Heritage Collection 215 drinking 254 Brough of 428 Tolbooth Art Centre 178 entertainment 254-5 442 Watermill, the 223 food 253-4 Knap of Howar 434 artists 469-70 history 248-9 Maes Howe 426 arts 465-70, see also individual art forms medical services 255 Mine Howe 424 arts festivals sights 249-52 441 Cowalfest 281 tourist information 255 442 Festival Fringe 76, travel to/from 255 432 74-5 Edinburgh International Festival 76 travel within 255-6 425 International Festival of Aberdour 205-6 427 Visual Art 119 Aberfeldy 223-4 Tomb of the Eagles 425 Imaginate Festival 73 Aberfoyle 198-200 471-2 Merchant City Festival 119 Aberlemno stones 244 Ardmore Islands 291 Perth Festival of the Arts 217 accommodation 209-11, 480-2, 353-4 St Andrews Festival 209 see also individual locations Ardnamurchan 354 St Magnus Festival 421 184, 336, 440 area codes 487 West End Festival 119 Achavanich Standing Stones 372 Argyllshire Gathering 299 Askival 359 A’Chill 362 Arisaig 356-7 382-3, 343 Armadale 396-7 astronomy 180 407-8 ATMs 486 Arnol Blackhouse 407-8 000 Map pages Auchmithie 244 Arran Folk Festival 162 000 Photo pages Auld Brig 166 499 336-9 411 Borders Abbeys Way 153 166-8, 168 378 Borders region 144-57 159-71 Bharpa Langass 412 accommodation 141 accommodation 141 Biggar 158-9 climate 141 climate 141 Biggar Puppet Theatre 158 food 141 food 141 Bigton 441 travel seasons 141 travel seasons 141 birdwatching 13, 476, 482-3, 13 Borders Towerhouse 150 Ayrshire Coastal Path 159 Aberdeen Beach 251 Bowmore 291-2 X X IN 446 Bracklinn Falls 200 D

Findhorn Bay nature reserve 269 Brae 443 E B Huntly 264 232, 260-2

Ba’, the 421 A-C Braemar Gathering 24, 261 Badbea 372 Isle of 289 Braemore 385-6 bagpipes 468 214 408 Ballater 258-60 Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre 227 Brechin 247 Balloch 275 Scottish Seabird Centre 100 439-40 277 Islands 444 breweries 462 Balmoral Castle 260, 231 442 Brewery 296 Balnakeil 379 Birnam 226-7 Islay Ales 291 202-3 Birsay 427-8 Brewery 161-2 Banff 267-8 ’s Palace 420 Sulwath Brewery 177 Banks, Iain 467 329-31 Bridge of Allan 196-7 Bannockburn 191, 194 164 Bridge of Balgie 225 414-15 Blair 229, 232 Bridge over the Atlantic 302 Barrie, JM 245 Blairgowrie 232 Broadford 396 327 Blantyre 138-9 161-3 Baxters Village 268 Boat of Garten 341 Broughty Ferry 241-3 beaches 19 boat tours Brown Caterthun 246 Aberdeen Beach 251 Aberdeen 251 Brown, Dan 98 Bosta 408 397-8 Brown, George Mackay 466 Calgary 309 Isle of Iona 311 Bruce’s Stone 180 Camusdarach Beach 356 Isle of Islay 289 Buachaille Etive Mor 345 Coldingham Bay 156 303 budget 14 284 Isle of 303 Bunessan 310 Isle of 314 Kyle of 390 Burg 305 Isle of Colonsay 296 Kylesku 382 Burke, William 70, 71 Silver Sands of 356 Loch Etive 316 Burns an’ a’ That 23, 166 Traigh Mor 414 Loch Lomond 272-4, 275 Burns Night 23, West Sands 209 74 Loch Ness 322, 334, 335 Burns, Robert 167, 465 Bealach na Ba 388 355 birthplace of 169 Beatrix Potter Park 226 Mallaig 357 celebrations of 23, 166 328 Mull of 288-9 mausoleum 172 Beauly Priory 328 Portree 399 169, 171, 172 beavers 285, 475 Sandwick 441 424 beer 73, 462, 127 425 Burrell Collection 114-15, 116 Beinn Airein 361 St Kilda 411, 412 Burry Man 72 Beinn Alligin 387 Stonehaven 257 bus travel 490, 491 387 384 bushwalking, see walking Beinn Mhor 413 Wick 373 business hours 483 Ben A’an 202 boat travel 491 Bute, Isle of 282-4 Ben Bhraggie 370 Boddam 441 Butt of Lewis 407 Ben Challum 203 Bonar Bridge 368 203, 224 Bonnie Prince Charlie 456 272 books 448 C 305, 309 Caenlochan National Nature Reserve fiction 465-7 246 Ben Nevis 9, 348, 351, 9 food 459, 461 Caerlaverock 174 202 history 455, 457 413 Cairn Gorm 340 wildlife 475, 476 Cairn o’Get 372 500 Cairngorm Mountain 339 Cawdor Castle 328 ceilidhs 468 Cairngorm Mountain Railway 339 Corgarff Castle 262 cell phones 487 Cairngorm Reindeer Centre 340 Craigievar Castle 262 23, 119 National Park 336-44, Craigmillar Castle 69 329 337 Craignethan Castle 157-8 chapels, see churches & 372-7 Crathes Castle 258 children, travel with 461-2, 483 accommodation 363 Culzean Castle 170 Christmas 77 climate 363 Castle 166 churches & cathedrals 251, X X IN food 363 Dirleton Castle 100 see also abbeys D Alloway Auld Kirk 169 E travel seasons 363 Doune Castle 197 Caledonian Canal 335, 353 305 Auld Kirk 166 C Caledonian Railway 247 Dunbar Castle 100 56 Callander 200-2 Dundonald Castle 169-70 of the Isles 160 Callander Crags 200 Dunnottar Castle 257, 13 Church of St Andrew & St George 63 Callanish Standing Stones 408 Dunollie Castle 298 Church of the Holy Rude 191 Calton Hill 64 Dunrobin Castle 370 369 cameras obscura 55, 245 Dunstaffnage Castle 315-16 197 Campbeltown 288-9 Duntulm Castle 402 Cathedral 226 camping 481 Dunvegan Castle 401 264 Campsies, the 139-40 49-53 Cathedral 329 Canna, Isle of 362 Edzell Castle 246-7 109-10 Cannich 328 Eilean Donan Castle 390, 230-1 58 canoeing 274-5, 332 Floors Castle 152 Italian Chapel 424 56 Fordyce Castle 268 Kildalton Chapel 291 Cape Wrath 381 Castle 256 Mackintosh church 117 car travel 490, 491-2 Castle 243 Mansfield Place Church 71 408 Glengorm Castle 308 Rosslyn Chapel 97, 98-9, Carrbridge 340-1 guide 472 98-9 Round Church 291 Carsaig Arches 305, 310 Hermitage Castle 150 Ruthwell Church 174 cashpoints 486 Huntly Castle 264 St Adrian’s Chapel 214 177-8 Inveraray Castle 284 206-7 414 Invermark Castle 246 St Blane’s Chapel 284 castles 13, 19, 13 Inverness Castle 319, 322 St Boniface Church 434 Aberdour Castle 205 Kellie Castle 214-15 St ’s Chapel 288 Castle 410 Kilchurn Castle 315 St Clement’s Church 410 Balfour Castle 431 Kildrummy Castle 262 Balmoral Castle 260, 231 Kinloch Castle 359 St Giles Cathedral 51, 55, 51 Blair Castle 229, 230 414 St John’s Kirk 217 Castle 139 406 St Machar’s Cathedral 251-2 Braemar Castle 261 Lochleven Castle 216 420 Breachachadh Castle 314 Castle 163 St Mary’s Church 238-9 Brochel Castle 403 MacLellan’s Castle 178 St Michael’s Church 101 & Park 161 Neidpath Castle 144 St Moluag’s Church 407 Brodie Castle 328 Noltland Castle 433 St Nicholas Church 249 Caerlaverock Castle 174 Old Wick Castle 373 St Ninian’s Chapel 183 Cardoness Castle 180 Castle 282 St Serfs Church 221 Castle Campbell 197-8 Scalloway Castle 440 St Tarquin’s Church 268 Castle Coeffin 317 Castle 287-8 182-3 Castle Fraser 256 St Andrews Castle 207 cinema 470 Castle Menzies 223 St John’s Castle 183 City Chambers 108 Clachan 317 Castle of Mey 374 Castle 187-90, 192-3, 192-3 Clatteringshaws Loch 180 Castle Stalker 316 Tantallon Castle 100 Clearances, the 378 Castle Tioram 354 Tarbert Castle 287 climate 14, 23-4, see also individual Castle Varrich 379 Taymouth Castle 224 regions Threave Castle 177 Clyde to Forth cycle route 117 Urquhart Castle 332 Clyde Walkway 117 000 Map pages cathedrals, see churches & Cobbler, the 279 000 Photo pages cathedrals 501 Codona’s Amusement Park 251 Glasgow 117 driving tours 383 Isle of Arran 162 Borders region 145, 145 Coire Lagan 398 Isle of Bute 284 central 199, 199 378-9 Isle of 160 Deeside to Speyside 259, 259 Coldingham 156-7 Killin 203 Glasgow to Oban 280, 280 Coldstream 154-5 Loch Lomond 274 Loch Ness 333, 333 Oban 298 Coll, Isle of 314-15, 304 northern Highlands 394, 394 Colonsay, Isle of 296-7, 290 southern Scotland 152

Drumlanrig’s Tower 150 X IN Common Ridings 24, 151

Drummore 185 D Commonwealth Games 121 D Drumnadrochit 332, 334-5 E Comrie 222

Da Vinci Code, The 98 Dryburgh Abbey 148 C-E 277 dangers, see safety Drymen 139 Connel 315-16 Davaar 288 Dufftown 265-7 conservation 449, 475 Deep Sea World 204 Duirinish 401-2 consulates 484 Deeside 258-62 Dumfries 171-4, 172 Corpach 352-3 devolution 458 Dumfries House 166 Corrie 163 Devorgilla Bridge 171 Dun Caan 403 385 Dirrie More 385 408 Corryvreckan Whirlpool 294, 295, disabilities, travellers with 487-8 Dunadd 286 303 distilleries 12, 12 Dunbar 100 costs 14 Bell’s Dunbeath 372 accommodation 480 227 Dunblane 197 food 459 348 374 train travel 490 Bladnoch Distillery 182 Dundee 236-41, 236 courses 486, 462 291 Dundee Blues Bonanza 239 279-82 292 Dunfermline 205 Cowal Highland Gathering 281 Dewar’s World of 223 Dunfermline Palace 205 Cowalfest 281 227 Dunkeld 226-7 Cowane’s Hospital 191 367 375 Craigellachie Nature Reserve 336 221 220-1 Craignure 305-6 420 281 Crail 213 Isle of 163-4 Dunvegan Castle 401 Cramond 69 Isle of 294 Dupplin Cross 221 Creag Choinnich 261 293 379-81 Cream o’ 180 297 Dutchman’s Cap 311 credit cards 17, 486 Old Pulteney Distillery 373 Crianlarich 278-9 Port Askaig 293 Crieff 221-2 Port Ellen 291 E Earl’s Palace (Birsay) 428 285-6 Speyside 265, 266 Earl’s Palace () 420 Crinan Classic Boat Festival 285 288 Earlsferry 215 crofting 378 398 Eas a’Chuil Aluinn 381-2 Croick 368 307 East Neuk 213-15 330-1 diving economy 449 Cruachan power station 315 Oban 298 432-3 Hills 398 Scapa Flow 425 Edinburgh 6, 36, 42-96, , , Culbin Forest 268 & Eyemouth Voluntary 43 46-7 Culloden Battlefield 327 Marine Reserve 156 52-3, 7, 74-5 Culross 204-5 Dog Falls 328 accommodation 42, 77-81 Culzean Castle 170 dog-sledding 337 activities 69-70 currency 486 Dollar 197-8 children, for 68 climate 42 customs regulations 483 dolphins 9, 269, 9 Dean Village 64-5 cycling 483, 491, see also mountain dolphin-watching 9, 268, 329, 330, 9 biking drinking 86-9 Dominus Insularum 454 around Aberfoyle 198-200 emergencies 93 Dornoch 369-70 Ballater 258 entertainment 89-92 Doune 197 Clyde to Forth cycle route 117 festivals 73-7 Dounreay 377-8 Edinburgh 69-70 food 42, 81-6, drinks 462-4, see also beer, whisky 127 Étape 227 golf 70 driving, see car travel 502 Edinburgh continued Eskdalemuir 176-7 folk museums highlights 43 Étape 227 243 history 44-5 etiquette 17 Museum 352 internet access 93 events, see festivals & events Heritage Centre & internet resources 93 Evie 428 Museum 372 itineraries 44 exchange rates 15 Clansman Centre 335 Leith 65, 68-9, 86, 89 Eyemouth 155-6 Island Folk Museum 303 medical services 93-4 Glencoe Folk Museum 346 X X IN New Town 60-4, 78-9, 85-6, 87-8, Glenesk Folk Museum 246 D F 341 E 60-1 443 Old Town 45-60, 77-8, 81-5, 86-7, Museum of Islay Life 292

E-G Fairy Glen 330, 403 52-3 Orkney Folklore & Storytelling Falkirk Wheel 197 postal services 94 Visitor Centre 427 Falkland 206 48-56, , , Skye Museum of Island Life 402-3 3 7 50-1 Falls of Dochart 203 shopping 92-3 467, see also music, music Falls of Foyers 332 festivals sights 45-69 Falls of Lora 315 food 19, 459-64 tourist information 94 Falls of Measach 385 football 473 tours 72-3 Falls of Shin 368 Fordyce 268 travel seasons 42 Fèis Ìle 289 243 travel to/from 94-5 ferry travel 276, 491 Forfar bridie 243 travel within 95-6 festivals & events 20, 23-4, 74-5, Forsinard 377 walking tour 66-7, 66 see also arts festivals, Highland Fort Augustus 335 Edinburgh Castle 49-53 games, music festivals Fort Charlotte 436 Edinburgh Festival Fringe 76, 74-5 comedy 76, 119 Fort George 327 Edinburgh International Book cultural 151, 159, 166, 268, Fort William 348-51 Festival 76 436 Fort William Mountain Festival 23 Edinburgh International Festival Edinburgh 24, 74-5 Forth Bridge 96 76 film 73, 119 Fortingall 224-5 Edinburgh International Film Festival food & drink 73, 287, 289 73 Fortrose 329-30 Glasgow 24 Edinburgh International Jazz & Blues Forvie National Nature Reserve 256 literary 76, 147, 182 Festival 77 Fossil Grove 113 nature 444 Edinburgh International Science 441 whisky 289 Festival 73 Fraserburgh 263 Edinburgh Military Tattoo 76 Fetlar 446 Edinburgh School 469 204-15 Edzell 246-7 accommodation 186 G Gaelic language 273, 466 , Isle of 360-1 climate 186 386-7 Eilean Ban 395 food 186 Gallanach 361 Eilean Donan Castle 390, travel seasons 186 galleries, see art galleries 230-1 Fife Coastal Path 204 electricity 484 film 470 Galloway 171-85 Elgin 264-5 festivals 73, 119 accommodation 141 Elgol 397-8 Findhorn 269 climate 141 Elie 215 Fingal’s Cave 311 food 141 Ellanbeich 302 293 travel seasons 141 embassies 484 Fintry 139 Galloway Forest Park 180-1 emergencies 15 Fionnphort 310 Galloway Red Deer Range 180 Enlightenment 457 Fireball Ceremony 257 gardens, see parks & gardens environment 474-8 Fishertown 327 408 conservation 449 fishing 483 Gatehouse of Fleet 179-80 issues 477-8 Arbroath 244 gay travellers 91, 132, 484 414 Aviemore 337 Gearrannan Blackhouse Village 408 Eshaness 443-4 Newton Stewart 181 genealogy 65 175-7 River Dee 258 Five Sisters of 391 geography 474 409 geology 474 000 Map pages flowers 477 Georgian House 63 000 Photo pages Fochabers 268-9 ghost tours 72, 73 503 ghosts 45, 72 Glen Luibeg 262 Helensburgh 279 Giant’s Graves 164 225 Helmsdale 371-2 Gibbon, Lewis Grassic 466 Glen Nevis 348, 351-2 Nature Reserve 445 cheese 288 Glen Prosen 246 378, 456-7 Gigha, Isle of 288 353 473 Gilmerton Cove 70-1 Glen 163 Argyllshire Gathering 299 Gladstone’s Land 50, 55, 50 Glen Shiel 329, 391 Braemar Gathering 24, 261 Glaid Stone 160 Glen Spean 353 Cowal Highland Gathering 281 X X IN Glamis Castle 243 Glen Torridon 387 Highland Games 399 D Glasgow 10, 36, 102-37, 104-5, Glenashdale Falls 164 E 106-7, 10 Glencoe Lochan 345 Mull Highland Games 304 accommodation 102, 119-23 Glencoe Massacre 346 Nairn Highland Games 327 G-I activities 117 Glencoe village 345-7 Highland Tolbooth Kirk 53 children, for 119 Glenelg 391 Highland Wildlife Park 340 City Centre 103-9, 119-22, 123-5, Glenesk 246 hiking, see walking 129-31 Glenfender 232 Hill House 279 climate 102 Glenfinnan 355-6 Hill o’Many Stanes 373 Clyde, the 111 Glenlivet Estate 267 443-4 drinking 129-31 339-40 history 450-8 East End 109-11, 122 Glenshee 232 Act of Union 455-6 entertainment 131-4 Glentress forest 144 devolution 458 festivals 119 Glentrool 180-1 Highland Clearances 378, food 102, 123-9 Goatfell 162 456-7 highlights 104-5 Going Pottie 226 Industrial Revolution 457-8 history 103 golden eagles 410 Jacobite rebellions 456 modern era 458 internet access 135 golf 11, 33-5, 473, 11 era 451 itineraries 110 British Golf Museum 207-9 242, 451-2 medical services 135 internet resources 33 Reformation 455 shopping 134-5 Royal Dornoch 369 Renaissance 453-4 sights 103-17 St Andrews 207, 11 Romans 451-2 south side 113-17 169 457 tourist information 135 170 Stewart dynasty 453-5 tours 117-19 Golspie 370-1 hitchhiking 492-3 travel seasons 102 Gourock 137-8 HM Frigate Unicorn 238 travel to/from 135-6 Grantown-on-Spey 341 Hogmanay 24, 73 travel within 136-7 Grassmarket 59-60 holidays 486 walking tour 118, 118 408 Holmwood House 116 West End 111-13, 122-3, 125, 128-9, Great Cumbrae, Isle of 160 Holy Island 165 131, 114 Great Glen Canoe Trail 332 Holyrood 56-8 Glasgow Boys 111 Great Glen Way 331, 352 Holyroodhouse 56-7 Glasgow Cathedral 109-10 137-8 Hopetoun House 96-7 Glasgow Film Festival 119 Gretna 175-6 horse riding 70, 386 Glasgow International Comedy Gretna Green 175, 175-6 Festival 119 116 Grey Cairns of Camster 372-3 Glasgow International Festival of 430-1 Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall 347 Visual Art 119 Huntly 264 58 Glasgow Jazz Festival 119 Hushinish 410 Gulf of Corryvreckan 294 of Art 103 Hynish 313 Gleann Lichd 391 328-9 H Glen Affric National Nature Reserve haggis 460, 126 I ice-climbing 347 328 Handa Island 381 Imaginate Festival 73 Glen Clova 246 Hare, William 70, 71 Inchcailloch 277 12, 345-7, 12 Harris 409-11 Inchcolm 96 Glen Feshie 340 Hawick 149-50 Inchconnachan 277 Glen Harris 359 health 484 Inchmahome Priory 198 Glen Isla 245-6 Heathergems 227 277 Glen Lethnot 246 Heaval 414 Industrial Revolution 457-8 Glen Lochay 225 Hebridean Celtic Festival 406 504 Innerpeffray Library 221 Isle of Whithorn 183 Lairig Ghru trail 340 insurance 485 Isleornsay 397 Lake of 198 internet access 485-7 itineraries 25-8 424 internet resources 15 165 genealogy 65 Lanark 157-8 J golf 33 Jacobite rebellions 456 Landmark Forest Adventure Park 341 tours 493 Jacobite Steam Train 348 Inveraray 284-5 Langholm 176

X X IN Jedburgh 150-2 Inverclyde 137-8 language 14, 466

D Jethart Callant’s Festival 151 courses 486 E Inverey 262 Jock’s Road 246 Inverie 358 Gaelic 273

I-L 56 159-60 Inverness 319-27, 322 John Muir House 100 Latinus Stone 183 accommodation 323-4 John O’Groats 374 activities 319, 322 Lecht Ski Resort 263 Jura, Isle of 293-6, 290 legal matters 486 drinking 325-6 Jura Music Festival 294 entertainment 326 Leighton Library 197 food 324-5 436-9, 438 sights 319, 322 K lesbian travellers 91, 132, 484 tourist information 326 Keith & Dufftown Railway 265 410-11 travel to/from 326 Kelman, James 467 Lewis 405-9 travel within 326-7 Kelso 152-4 Lewis chess pieces 409 Kenmore 224 Iona, Isle of 310-12, 462 Liathach 387 , Isle of 302 Irn Bru 463 libraries Kilchoan 354 Irvine 170 Innerpeffray Library 221 291 Island I Vow 277 Leighton Library 197 Killearn 139 islands 22 Scottish Geneology Society Killin 203-4 Library 65 Islay, Isle of 289-93, 290 Kilmarnock 166 Lighthouse 108 Islay Jazz Festival 290 Kilmartin Glen 286 lighthouses Isle of Arran 160-5, 161 Kincraig 340 accommodation 184, 386, 440 Isle of Bute 282-4 King’s Cave 164 Ardnamurchan 354 Isle of Bute Jazz Festival 282 341, 344 Cape Wrath 381 Isle of Coll 314-15, 304 Kinloch Rannoch 225 Duncansby Head 374 Isle of Colonsay 296-7, 290 Kinlochewe 387 185 Isle of Eigg 360-1 Kinlochleven 347-8 289 Isle of Gigha 288 Kinross 215-16 museums 263, 313 Isle of Great Cumbrae 160 Kintyre 286-9 Neist Point 401 Isle of Iona 310-12, 462 Kintyre Way 287 Rua Reidh 386 Isle of Islay 289-93, 290 Kirk Yetholm 154 313 Isle of Jura 293-6, 290 Kirkcaldy 206 Limpet 293 Isle of Jura Race 294 Kirkcudbright 178-9 links 33-5 Isle of Kerrera 302 Kirkcudbright Jazz Festival 178 Linlithgow 100-1 Isle of 303 Kirkoswald 171 Linlithgow Palace 100-1 Isle of May 214 kirks, see churches & cathedrals Linn of Dee 262 Isle of Muck 361 Kirkwall 420-4, 422 Linn of Quoich 262 Isle of Mull 303-10, 304 Kirriemuir 245 Lismore 316-17 Isle of 403 Knap of Howar 434 literary museums Isle of Rum 359-60 peninsula 358 Burns House 171 Isle of Seil 302-3 Kyle of Lochalsh 390 JM Barrie’s Birthplace 245 Isle of Skye 6, 31-2, 363, 392-403, 379 Robert Burns Birthplace Museum 393, 394, 6-7, 342 Kyleakin 395 169 Isle of Skye Highland Games 399 Kylerhea 395 Robert Burns Centre 172 Isle of 311 Kylesku 381-2 Writers’ Museum 55 Isle of 312-14, 304 literary tours 72, 73 literature 448, 465-7, 475, 476, see L also books Ladhar Bheinn 358 Livingstone, David 138 000 Map pages Lagg 164 Local Hero 263, 356 000 Photo pages Lairg 368-9 Loch Achray 202 505 Loch Affric 329 Maes Howe 426 Morar 356-7 Loch Arkaig 352 Mallaig 357-8 264-9 Loch Awe 315 maps 486 accommodation 234 Loch Coruisk 398 marine mammals 9, 476, 9 climate 234 Loch Earn 222 maritime museums food 234 379 249 travel seasons 234 Loch Etive 315 Eyemouth Maritime Centre 155 Morrone 261 Loch Glencoul 381-2 HM Frigate Unicorn 238 motorcycle travel 490, 491-2 X X IN Nature Reserve 293 Inveraray Maritime Museum 284 mountain biking, see also cycling D

Loch Hope 379 Scottish Fisheries Museum 213 7stanes 181 E 202 170 Aviemore 336 L-M Loch Ken 177 Boat Haven 445 Bonar Bridge 368 Loch Lee 246 Waterlines 372 Glentress forest 144 216 Mary King’s Close 45 Glentrool 180-1 Loch Leven Heritage Trail 216 Mary, Queen of Scots 454-5 Great Glen Mountain Bike Trails 331 Loch Lomond 8, 272-9, 474, 274, Mary, Queen of Scots House 151 Highland Wildcat 371 8, 342-3 Matthew, Catriona 34 Killin 203 Loch Lomond Water Bus 276 May, Isle of 214 Laggan Wolftrax 344 387 McCaig’s Tower 297 Mabie Forest Park 175 Loch Morar 357 McPhies 296 Nevis Range 352 339-40 Mealista 409 southern Scotland 146, 181 Loch Ness 331-5 Meallfuarvonie 332 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 349 Loch Ness monster 331, 334, 475 measures 481 Mount Stuart 283-4 Loch of Funzie 446 media 449 Muck, Isle of 361 Loch Rannoch 225-6 medical services 484-5 Muir, John 100 Loch Slapin 397 Meigle 233 Mull, Isle of 303-10, 304 Loch Tay 224 Melrose 146-8 central Mull 309 Loch Trool 181 Melrose Rugby Sevens 147 festivals & events 303 225-6, 2, 11 Melvaig 386 medical services 304 413 Melvich 378 north Mull 308-9 Lochcarron 389 Mendelssohn on Mull 304 postal services 304 Lochinver 382-3 Mercat Cross 191 south Mull 309-10 Lochranza 163-4 Merchant City Festival 119 tourist information 304 Lost Valley 345 Mey 374-5 tours 303 Loup of Fintry 139 Miavaig 409 travel to/from 304 Luing, Isle of 303 midges 15, 391 travel within 304-5 Lunga 311 Midlothian 96-7 walking on 305 410 military museums wildlife watching 306 Luss 275-6 Black Watch Museum 217 Mull Highland Games 304 Lybster 372-3 Gordon Highlanders Museum 251 Mull of Galloway 185 of Mull of Kintyre 289 Scotland 53 Mull of Kintyre Music Festival 289 M Royal Highland Fusiliers Museum Mabie Farm Park 175 Munro bagging 32, 224, 272, 387-8 108-9 Mabie Forest Park 175 Munro, Sir Hugh 32 War & Peace Museum 297-8 MacCaig, Norman 466 Munros 32 Millarochy Bay 277 MacDiarmid, Hugh 466 museums 20, see also art galleries, Millport 160 folk museums, literary museums, Macduff 267-8 Mine Howe 424 maritime museums, military Machair Way 413 398-9 museums Machars, the 182-3 Mishnish Music Festival 303 Alyth Museum 233 Moor Stone Circle 164 mobile phones 487 Banff Museum 267 Machrihanish Bay 289 Moffat 176 Blackhouse Museum 408 Mackinnon’s Cave 309 Moffat Mill 176 Böd of Gremista 436 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 120, 472 354 Brechin Town House Museum 247 examples of work 103, 108, 112, Moine Mhor Nature Reserve 286 British Golf Museum 207-9 115-16, 117, 279 Monarch of the Glen 469 Museum 241 Mackintosh House 112 14, 17, 483-4, 486 Bute Museum 282 MacLeod’s Maidens 401 Mons Meg 52 Caithness Horizons 375 MacLeod’s Tables 401 506 museums continued Nairn Museum 327 Mull of Kintyre Music Festival 289 Coldstream Museum 154 National Museum of Costume 175 Orkney Folk Festival 429 Crail Museum 213 National Museum of Scotland RockNess Music Festival 332, 20 138 58, 59 Shetland Folk Festival 436 Discovery Point 237-8 444 St Magnus Festival 421 Dunbar Town House Museum 100 Orkney Fossil & Vintage Centre 424 216 Edinburgh University Collection of Orkney Museum 420 Tarbert Music Festival 287 Historic Musical Instruments 71 Paisley Museum 139 Ullapool Guitar Festival 384 X X IN Elgin Museum 264 Pathology Museum 70 178-9 D Ellisland Farm 172 People’s Palace 110-11 E World Pipe Band Championships Eyemouth Museum 155 People’s Story 56 119 M-N 386 Perth Museum 217 Gateway to the Glens Museum 245 Pictavia 247 N Gladstone Court 158 Queensferry Museum 96 Nairn 327-8 111 111 Nairn Book & Arts Festival 327 Glenfinnan Station Museum 355 Scalloway Museum 440 National Museum of Scotland 58, 59 Grampian Transport Museum 263 Scotland Street School Museum national parks Greenhill Covenanter’s House 115-16 336-44, 158-9 116-17 337 330 Scottish 263 National Park 198-204, Gunsgreen House 155 Shetland Crofthouse Museum 441 275-9, 274, 27 Halliwell’s House Museum 149 436 National Wallace Monument 191 Hamilton Toy Collection 200 Signal House Museum 243-4 nature reserves Hawick Museum & Art Gallery 150 Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum 412 Highland Museum of Childhood 313 Caenlochan National Nature 366 209 Reserve 246 History of Surgery Museum 70 St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Craigellachie Nature Reserve 336 Historylinks 369 Life & Art 110 Findhorn Bay nature reserve 269 Hugh Miller’s Cottage & Museum St Vigeans Museum 243 Forvie National Nature Reserve 256 330 178 Glen Affric National Nature Reserve Hunterian Museum 112 Stranraer Museum 183 328 284 Museum 378 Glenmore Forest Park 339-40 Inverness Museum & Museum 428-9 Hermaness Nature Reserve 445 Art Gallery 319 Surgeons’ Hall Museums 70 Isle of May 214 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Taigh Chearsabhagh 412 439 112, 113 Tain Through Time 367 Kildonan Museum 413 Loch Druidibeg National Nature Tangwick Haa Museum 443 Reserve 413 Kilmartin House Museum 286 Tomintoul Museum 267 Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve 293 Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery Ullapool Museum 384 206 Lumbister RSPB Reserve 444 238 Laidhay Croft Museum 372 Moine Mhor Nature Reserve. 286 Víkingar! 159 Marischal College & Museum 250 Noup Head 433 West Highland Museum 348 McLean Museum & Art Gallery 137 St Abb’s Head National Nature Whisky Museum 265 Reserve 156 McManus Galleries 238 Wick Heritage Centre 373 Neptune’s Staircase 352, 353 Meigle Museum 233 music 20, 467-8 Ness Islands 319 Moat Park Heritage Centre 158 music festivals ‘Nessie’ 331, 334, 475 Mull Museum 307 Arran Folk Festival 162 Nessieland Castle Monster Centre Museum nan Eilean 405 Celtic Connections 23, 119 334 Museum of Childhood 56 Dundee Blues Bonanza 239 New Abbey 174-5 56 Edinburgh International Jazz & 157-8 Museum of Lead Mining 174 Blues Festival 77 newspapers 481 Museum of the & Fèis Ìle 289 Newton Stewart 181-2 Highlanders 187 Glasgow Jazz Festival 119 Newtonmore 341, 344 Museum of the Isles 396 Hebridean Celtic Festival 406 North Berwick 97-100 Museum on 71 Islay Jazz Festival 290 434-5 Isle of Bute Jazz Festival 282 North 412-13 Jura Music Festival 294 Northwest Highlands Geopark 381 000 Map pages Kircudbright Jazz Festival 178 Noss 439-40 Photo pages 000 Mishnish Music Festival 303 Noup Head 433 507 O 441 Plodda Falls 329 Oban 297-302, 298 Papa 434 Pobull Fhinn 412 Old Blacksmith’s Shop 175-6 Paps of Jura 295 poetry 466-7 Old Course 207, 11 parks & gardens 477 politics 448, 458 430 Achamore Gardens 288 population 449 Old Man of Stoer 382 Beatrix Potter Park 226 Port Appin 316 Old Man of Storr 402 Benmore Botanic Garden 281 Port Askaig 293 Old Royal Station 258 Botanic Gardens (Glasgow) 112 Port Charlotte 292 X X IN Open Championship 209 Castle Kennedy Gardens 184 Port Ellen 290-1 D opening hours 483 Colonsay House woodland garden Port Logan 185 E 296 Orkney Explorer Pass 426 Port of Ness 407 238 O-R Orkney Folk Festival 429 367-8 Explorers Garden 227 Orkney Islands 419-35, 417 Portnahaven 292-3 Holyrood Park 58 accommodation 416 Portpatrick 184-5 Inverewe Garden 386 climate 416 Portree 399-401 Logan Botanic Garden 185 food 416 Portsoy 268 Ness Islands 319 highlights 417 prehistoric sites 450, see also Pittencrieff Park 205 archaeological sites, Pictish tours 419 Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 198 symbol stones, standing stones & travel seasons 416 Royal Botanic Garden (Edinburgh) stone circles travel to/from 419 69 Banks Chambered Tomb 425 travel within 419-20 parliament building 51, 57, 51 Barnhouse Neolithic Village 427 Oronsay Priory 296 Pass of Killiecrankie 229 Bharpa Langass 412 otters 359, 395 Paxton House 156 Broch of Gurness 428 Our Dynamic Earth 57-8 Peat Inn 212 Burroughston Broch 431 Outer 403-15, 393 Peebles 144-6 Cairn o’Get 372 accommodation 363 Pennan 263-4 Clickimin Broch 436 climate 363 Pentland Hills 97 Grey Cairns of Camster 372-3 food 363 Peregrine WildWatch Centre 264 Hill o’Many Stanes 373 internet resources 404 Perth 216-20, 218 Jarlshof 442 tourist information 404 Perth Festival of the Arts 217 Kilmartin Glen 286 travel seasons 363 Knap of Howar 434 Perthshire 12, 215-33, 12 travel to/from 404 accommodation 186 Maes Howe 426 travel within 404-5 climate 186 Mine Howe 424 travel seasons 186 Old Scatness 442 P phonecards 487 Ord Hut Circles & Chambered Cairns 368 painting 469-70 Pictish symbol stones 242, 244, 269, Paisley 139 366, 451 Quoyness chambered tomb 433 Palace of Holyroodhouse 56-7 Picts 242, 451-2 Rousay 432 palaces & stately homes Pilgrims Way 152 Skara Brae 427 Culross Palace 204 Pitlochry 227-9 Tofts Ness 433 Culzean Castle 170 215 Tomb of the Eagles 425 Dumfries House 166 place names 273 Provand’s Lordship 110 Dunfermline Palace 205 planning 14-15 ’s House 250-1 Falkland Palace 206 budgeting 14 public holidays 486 Haddo House 256 bus passes 491 public transport 490 Hopetoun House 96-7 calendar of events 23-4 pubs 21 House of Dun 247 children 483 Punch Bowl 262 Linlithgow Palace 100-1 internet resources 15 Mellerstain House 154 itineraries 25-8 Q Mount Stuart 283-4 repeat visitors 18 quad-biking 337 Palace of Holyroodhouse 51, Scotland basics 14-15 Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 198 56-7, 51 Scotland’s regions 36-9 Queensferry 96 Paxton House 156 train passes 494 Quiraing 402 Scone Palace 216 travel seasons 14 Skaill House 427 plants 477 Spynie Palace 264 R Plockton 389-90 Raasay, Isle of 403 Traquair House 147 Plockton Regatta 389 radio 481 508 railways, see also train travel sailing 281, 299 Shetland Bus Memorial 440 Alford Valley Steam Railway 263 Salen 353 Shetland Folk Festival 436 Cairngorm Mountain Railway 339 salmon 476 Shetland Islands 435-46, 418 Caledonian Railway 247 Salvation Army Citadel 249 accommodation 416, 440 Jacobite Steam Train 348 sand dunes 256 climate 416 Keith & Dufftown Railway 265 Sanday 433 food 416 Strathspey Steam Railway 336 Sandwick 441 highlights 418 Rankin, Ian 467 Sannox 163 internet resources 435 X X IN 225 Satrosphere 251 travel seasons 416 D

E Real Mary King’s Close 55-6 Scalasaig 296 travel to/from 435 Reekie Linn 245 Scalloway 440 travel within 435 R-S Reformation 454-5 Scapa Flow 425 Shetland Nature Festival 444 Reilig Oran 311 Scarasta 410 Shieldaig 387 religion 406, 449 Scarp 410 138 Renaissance 453-4 scenery 22 shopping 21 Rest & Be Thankful 279 Schiehallion 225 Sir Walter Scott’s Courtroom 149 Riding of the Marches 151 Scone Palace 216 Six Nations Rugby Tournament 23, rights of way 30 Scores, the 207-9 75 right to roam 30 Experience 53-5 Skara Brae 427 427 Scotland’s Secret Bunker 215 skiing 232, 263, 339 Road to the Isles 355-8 Scott, Walter 149, 465 Skipness 287-8 452-3 courtroom 149 Skye, Isle of 6, 31-2, 392-403, 393, Rob Roy 202, 203 former residence 148 6-7, 342 Rob Roy Way 139 monument 62 activities 392 rock climbing 392 Scottish Beaver Trial 285 climate 363 RockNess Music Festival 332, 20 Walking Festival 152 driving tour 394, 394 Rocks of Solitude 247 469 internet access 393 Rogart 369 Scottish Crannog Centre 224 medical services 393 Romans 451-2 Scottish Dolphin Centre 268 tourist information 395 309-10 Scottish National Gallery 62-3 tours 392 Rosslyn Chapel 97, 98-9, 98-9 building 51, travel to/from 395 Rothesay 282-3 57, 51 travel within 395 Rothiemurchus Estate 336 Scottish Real Ale Festival 73 396-7 Rousay 431-2 Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary 316 Smailholm Tower 154 Rowardennan 277 Scottish Seabird Centre 100 359-62 Royal & Ancient Golf Club 209 Scottish Series Yacht Races 287 smoking laws 481 Royal College of Surgeons 71 Scottish Traditional Boat Festival Smoo Cave 379-80 268 Royal Highland Show 73 157-9 Scourie 381 Royal Mile 48-56, 3, 7, 50-1 South Loch Ness Trail 331-2 Scousburgh 441 Royal Troon 169 South Ronaldsay 425-6 Scrabster 375-7 Royal Yacht Britannia 65, 68-9 413-14 sea kayaking Rueval 413 Southern Scotland 141-85, 142-3 Applecross 388 rugby union 23, 473, 75 accommodation 141 Isle of Skye 392 Rum, Isle of 359-60 climate 141 Lochinver 382 Ruthven Barracks 344 food 141 Oban 298 174 travel seasons 141 Shetland 442 Southern Upland Way 147, 152, seafood 462 180, 184 S seal-spotting 269 Spar Cave 397 Sabbath, the 406 Seil, Isle of 302-3 Spark, Muriel 467 safety Selkirk 149 Spey Bay 268 hitching 492-3 senior travellers 484 Speyside Way 31, 267 road 492 Sgurr Alasdair 398 Spirit of Speyside 24 walking 29 Sgurr of Eigg 360 Spittal of Glenshee 232 431 sports 473, see also individual sports Sharmanka Kinetic Gallery & Theatre St Abbs 156-7 000 Map pages 106-8 St Abbs & Eyemouth Voluntary 000 Photo pages Sherlock Holmes 465-6 Marine Reserve 156 509 St Andrews 206-13, 208 Valley 262-3 Traquair House 147 activities 209 220-2 travel to/from Scotland 489-94 entertainment 212 Strathglass 328-9 travel within Scotland 490-4 festivals & events 209 Strathnaver 377 trekking, see walking food 211-12 Strathpeffer 366-7 311 medical services 213 Strathspey Steam Railway 336 Troon 169-70 sights 206-9 Stromness 428-30 Trossachs National Park 198-204, tourist information 213 432 275-9, 274, 27 travel to/from 213 Strontian 353 402-3 X IN D

travel within 213 student cards 484 Trump, Donald 256 E St Andrews Festival 209 Sueno’s Stone 269 Turnberry 170-1 St 296, 310 Sumburgh 442 TV 481 S-W St Cuthbert’s Way 147, 152 supernatural, the 45, 72, 331 Tweed Cycle Route 152 222 surfing 375 Tyndrum 278-9 St Fillan’s Cave 215 swimming 70, 257 St Giles Cathedral 51, 55, 51 U St John’s Tower 166 T Uamh Fraing 360-1 St John’s Town of Dalry 181 T in the Park 24, 216 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 349 St Kilda 409, 412 Tain 367 Uisken 310 St Magnus Festival 421 Tall Ship Glenlee 111 Ulbster 372 St Monans 215 Tarbert 287, 409-10 Ullapool 383-5 St Ninian’s Cave 183 Tarbert Music Festival 287 Ullapool Guitar Festival 384 St Ninian’s Isle 441 Tarbert Seafood Festival 287 Unst 445-6 Staffa, Isle of 311 Tarmachan Range 224 Unst Bus Shelter 445 standing stones & stone circles, see 472 23, 436 also Pictish symbol stones Tay Forest Park 225 Urquhart Castle 332 Achavanich Standing Stones Taynuilt 315-16 372 telephone services 487 Callanish Standing Stones 408 V Temple Wood 286 Machrie Moor Stone Circle 164 vacations 486 108 Pobull Fhinn 412 vegetarian travellers 461 theme parks Ring of Brodgar 427 Victorian Market 319 Landmark Forest Adventure Park Standing Stones of Victorian toilets 282 341 427 Viking Festival 159 Nessieland Castle Monster Centre Temple Wood 286 visas 488 334 Torhouse Stone Circle 182 visual art 111, 330, 469-70 Three Sisters 345 Standing 427 Voe 442-3 375-7 stargazing 180 281-2 stately homes, see palaces & stately time 487 homes W Tinto Hill 159 walking 21, 29-32 Stevenson, Robert Louis 465-6 tipping 17, 486 Ayrshire Coastal Path 159 Stirling 187, 190-6, 190 Tiree, Isle of 312-14, Ben Nevis 351 accommodation 194-5 304 Tirefour Broch 317 Borders Abbeys Way 153 climate 186 Tobermory 306-8 Cairngorms, the 340 drinking 195-6 Tomich 329 Campsies & Strathblane, the 139 food 195-6 Tomintoul 267 Cobbler, the 279 sights 187, 190-4 Tongue 378-9 equipment 29 tourist information 196 Torhouse Stone Circle 182 Fife Coastal Path 204 travel to/from 196 Torridon 387-8 Glen Clova 246 Stirling Castle 187-90, 192-3, 192-3 Torrylinn Cairn 164 Glentrool 180-1 stone circles, see standing stones & Great Glen Way 331, 352 stone circles Tour of Mull Rally 304 information 32 Stone of Destiny 49 tourist information 487 Inverey 262 Stonehaven 256-8 tours 493, see also boat tours Isle of Arran 162 Stonehaven Folk Festival 257 Town Yetholm 154 Isle of Bute 284 405-7 train travel, see also railways Isle of Eigg 360, 361 Stranraer 183-4 rail passes 494 Isle of Great Cumbrae 160 Strath Mor 392 to/from Scotland 490 Isle of Jura 294-5 Strathblane 139-40 within Scotland 493-4 510 walking continued Falls of Shin 368 Gairloch Marine Wildlife Centre 386 Isle of Mull 305 Linn of Quoich 262 Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre Isle of Rum 359 Reekie Linn 245 227 Isle of Skye 31-2, 392 Waterstein Head 401 Marine Discovery Centre 306 Killin 203 Watt, James 137 Nádurra Visitor Centre 353-4 Kintyre Way 287 weather 14, 23-4, see also Peregrine WildWatch Centre 264 Loch Achray 202 individual regions RSPB Osprey Centre Loch Lomond 272 websites, see internet resources 341 X X IN long-distance walks 30 weights 481 Scottish Dolphin Centre 268 D Welsh, Irvine 467 Scottish Seabird Centre 100 E Machair Way 413 Melrose 147 Wemyss Bay 138 Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary 316 W-Z Pilgrims Way 152 West End Festival 119 Wings Over Mull 305-6 short walks 31 8, 30-1, 117, 272, wildlife watching 9, 312, 9 South Loch Ness Trail 331-2 347, 9 Aberfeldy 223 southern Scotland 152 West Highland Yachting Week 299 Bressay & Noss 439 Southern Upland Way 147, 152, Westray 433-5 Gairloch 386 180, 184 307, 312 Isle of Islay 289 Speyside Way 31, 267 Armadale 397 Isle of Kerrera 302 St Cuthbert’s Way 147, 152 Gairloch 386 Isle of Mull 306 West Highland Way 8, 30-1, 117, Tobermory 306-7 Loch Linnhe 348-9 272, 347, 9 Whaligoe Steps 372 Oban 298 walking tours whisky 12, 463, 12, 126, see also Plockton 389 Edinburgh 66-7, 66 distilleries 103 Glasgow 118, 118 museums 53-5, 265 Windhouse 444 Wallace, William 191, 194, 452-3 tours 266 windsurfing 313 Wanlockhead 174 White Caterthun 246 Wolf of 226 Ward Hill 439 Whithorn 182-3 women travellers 488 401-2 Whithorn, Isle of 183 World Pipe Band Championships 119 water sports, see also sea kayaking, 164 World Stone-Skimming windsurfing Wick 373-4 Championships 303 Glencoe 346 Wickerman Festival 178-9 Isle of Tiree 313 Wigtown 182 Y Kincraig 340 Wigtown Book Festival 182 Yell 444-5 Loch Ken 177 wildlife 475-6 waterfalls wildlife & nature centres, see also Bracklinn Falls 200 zoos & wildlife parks Z zoos & wildlife parks Falls of Dochart 203 Caerlaverock Wetland Centre 174 Edinburgh Zoo 69 Falls of Foyers 332 Cairngorm Reindeer Centre 340 Galloway Wildlife Conservation Falls of Lora 315 David Marshall Lodge Visitor Centre 198 Park 178 Falls of Measach 385 Falls of Clyde Wildlife Centre 157 Highland Wildlife Park 340

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 496

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Tait. Finally, thanks to coauthor Andy and to OUR READERS the ever-helpful and patient editors and car- Many thanks to the travellers who used tographers at Lonely Planet. the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting Andy Symington anecdotes: Many thanks are due across the country, but Monica Bandettini, Pat Bates, Sven Berger, particularly to ever-reliable and true friend Morag & Gordon Brown, Martha Bryce, Emma Jenny Neil, and to Juliette and David Paton Clark, Ian Dobie, Alec Drew, Candace Driskell, for guaranteed warm and over-generous Margaretanne Dugan, Stefano Friani, Anna hospitality. Gratitude goes also to my mother Galuszka, Ian Gartshore, Sandie Geddes, Rich for visiting me in the remote Highlands, to Gernand, Pj Henry, Jon Hollingworth, Yvonne Jose Eliseo Vázquez González for naviga- Jansen, Irfan Khokhar, Johnny Long, Ka Lun tional assistance, to Harry Wycherley for the Tam, Gordon Mackenzie, Ronald Mackenzie, audiovisual side, to Eleanor Hamilton, Cindy- Eweb Mackinnon, James Maclean, Liisa Mac- Lou Ramsay, John Bain and Riika Åkerlind. naughton, Ellen Mclaughlin, Karen Mickan, Applause to helpful tourist-office staff and Tony Millar, Heather Monell, Monia Montis, cabbies, big thanks to Neil for coordinating, Ngaire Moore, Helen Moye, D Olivier, Lotte and cheers to Cliff and the LP team for a top Oostebrink, Dener Pereira, Stephen Rawlin- organising job. And to Elena, at my side even son, Michal Rudziecki, Joanne Soe, Sharon when I’m far away: gracias profundas amor. Sullivan, John Tindal, J Wheatley, Tony Wheeler ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AUTHOR THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Neil Wilson Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Many thanks to all the helpful and enthusias- Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System tic staff at TICs throughout the country, and Sciences, .11, 1633­44 to the many travellers I met on the road who Illustrations pp50-1, pp98-9 and pp192-3 chipped in with advice and recommenda- by Javier Zarracina. tions. Thanks also to Carol Downie, and to Cover photograph: Glen Coe, Scotland; Andrew Henderson, Steven Fallon, Russell Giovanni Simeone/4Corners © Leaper, Adrian Shine, Erlend Tait and Pamela ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 497

This Book Commissioning Assisting Editors Andrew This 7th edition of Lonely Editors Clifton Wilkinson, Bain, Jackey Coyle, Kate Evans, Planet’s Scotland guidebook Katie O’Connell Justin Flynn, Samantha Forge, was researched and written by Coordinating Editor Kate Gabrielle Innes, Christopher Neil Wilson and Andy Syming- Whitfield Pitts, Luna Soo ton. The previous edition was Coordinating Cover Research Naomi B Parker E also written by Neil Wilson and Cartographer Xavier Di Toro H Andy Symington. The 5th edi- Coordinating Layout Internal Image Research IN tion was written by Neil Wilson Designer Carlos Solarte Louise Beanland, Aude D and Alan Murphy. Vauconsant T

Managing Editors Brigitte H

This guidebook was com- Ellemor, Angela Tinson Thanks to Dan Austin, Kate E missioned in Lonely Planet’s Managing Cartographers Chapman, Ryan Evans, Larissa SC London office, and produced Frost, Tobias Gattineau, Jouve Shahara Ahmed, Anita Banh, EN by the following: India, Asha Ioculari, Evan

Anthony Phelan E

Jones, Trent Paton, Raphael S Managing Layout Richards, Averil Robertson, Chris Girdler Designer Silvia Rosas, Fiona Siseman, Andrew Stapleton, Gerard Walker, Danny Williams

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