Scotland's Highlands 2
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 40 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Shetland Islands p300 Orkney Islands p267 Skye & the Northwest Western Isles Highlands p182 p218 Great Glen Central &Lochaber Highlands p148 p114 Walking the West Highland Way p106 Southern Highlands &Islands p42 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 355 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP set o Directory A–Z ................. 356 too much B&Bs & Gu B&Bs are a Scott tion. At the bottom get a bedroom in a pr house, a shared bathro Transport ........................ 365 and a fry-up (juice, coՖe or tea, cereal and cooked Directory breakfast – bacon, eggs, sausage, baked beans and toast). Midrange B&Bs have en suite bathrooms, TVs in Glossary .......................... 371 A-Z each room and more variety (and healthier options) for breakfast. Almost all B&Bs 75% of the price of a double provide hospitality trays (tea- Accommodation for your single room. and coՖ ee-making facilities) Almost all B&Bs, guest- in bedrooms. Also excellent Scotland provides a com- houses and hotels (and prehensive choice of accom- are farm B&Bs, which oՖer Index ................................ 374 even some hostels) provide modation to suit all visitors. traditional Scottish hospital- breakfast; if this is not the ity, huge breakfasts and a In this book accommodation case, then it is mentioned in choices are Á agged with quiet rural setting – good fo individual reviews throughout discharging urban grit. Pub price indicators, based on the this book. cheapest accommodation for may also oՖ er cheap (and Prices increase over the sometimes noisy) B&B a Map Legend .................... 383 two people in high season: peak tourist season (June to can be good fun. September) and are at their up to £50 Guesthouses, often highest in July and August. converted private ho from £50 to £130 Outside of these months, are an extension o and particularly in winter, £130 and over concept. They a special deals are often avail- larger and mo avel, the options able at guesthouses and than B&Bs ostels and hotels. Smaller establish- food an and ments will often close from co around November to March, particularly in more rem THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Neil Wilson 00-title-map-shi2.indd 1 6/10/2011 11:17:05 AM Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS WALKING IN THE SOUTHERN STRATHDON . 137 & ISLANDS . .42 HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . 102 Alford . 137 LOCH LOMOND & AROUND ...44 Craigievar Castle . 137 Loch Lomond . .44 WALKING THE WEST Lecht Ski Resort . 138 Arrochar. .48 HIGHLAND WAY . .106 DEESIDE . 138 THE TROSSACHS & Planning. 107 Ballater . 138 AROUND . 49 Day One: Milngavie to Balmoral Castle . 139 Aberfoyle & Around . .49 Drymen . 109 Braemar . 139 Callander . .50 Day Two: Drymen to THE ANGUS GLENS . 141 Rowardennan . 110 Killin . 53 Kirriemuir . 141 Day Three: Rowardennan to COWAL PENINSULA . 54 Inverarnan . 110 Glen Clova . 142 Dunoon & Around . 55 Day Four: Inverarnan to Edzell . 143 Cowal’s West Coast . 56 Tyndrum . .111 BLAIRGOWRIE & ISLE OF BUTE . 57 Day Five: Tyndrum to Kings GLENSHEE . 144 ISLE OF ARRAN . .60 House Hotel . .111 WALKING IN THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . 145 Brodick & Around . 61 Day Six: Kings House Hotel to Kinlochleven . 112 Lochranza . .63 Day Seven: Kinlochleven to THE GREAT GLEN & Lamlash . 65 Fort William . 113 LOCHABER . .148 KINTYRE . 65 INVERNESS . 149 MID-ARGYLL . .68 CENTRAL AROUND INVERNESS . 156 Inveraray . .68 HIGHLANDS . 114 Culloden Battlefi eld. 156 Knapdale . .69 WEST PERTHSHIRE . 115 Fort George . 156 Kilmartin Glen. 70 Aberfeldy . 115 Nairn. 157 OBAN & AROUND . 71 Kenmore . 118 Cawdor . 157 Isle of Seil . 77 Loch Tay . 118 WEST OF INVERNESS . 158 NORTH ARGYLL . 78 Glen Lyon . 119 Beauly . 158 Loch Awe . 78 Rannoch Moor . 121 LOCH NESS . 159 Appin & Around . 79 Corrour Station . 121 Drumnadrochit . 160 Isle of Lismore . .80 PERTH TO BLAIR CASTLE . 122 Fort Augustus . 161 SOUTHERN HEBRIDES . 81 Pitlochry . 123 THE ROAD TO SKYE . 162 Isle of Islay. 81 Pass of Killiecrankie. 126 Eilean Donan Castle . 163 Isle of Jura . .86 THE CAIRNGORMS . 127 Glenelg . 164 Isle of Colonsay . .88 Aviemore . 127 Kyle of Lochalsh . 165 Isle of Mull . .90 Loch Morlich . 131 FORT WILLIAM . 165 Isle of Iona . 97 MORAY . 134 AROUND FORT WILLIAM. 169 Isle of Coll . .99 Duff town . 134 Glen Nevis . 169 Isle of Tiree . .100 Tomintoul. 136 GLEN COE . .171 10a-on_the_road_title-shi2.indd 40 5/10/2011 3:13:41 PM See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road Glencoe Village . 172 NORTHWEST EAST MAINLAND TO Kinlochleven . 174 HIGHLANDS . 218 SOUTH RONALDSAY . .282 Lamb Holm . .283 LOCHABER . 174 EAST COAST . 219 Burray . .283 ROAD TO THE ISLES . 176 Black Isle . 219 SOUTH ISLES . .285 Glenfi nnan. 176 Strathpeff er . .222 Hoy & South Walls . .285 Arisaig & Morar . 177 Ben Wyvis & Around . .223 NORTH ISLES . .288 Mallaig . 178 Dingwall . .224 Shapinsay . .289 KNOYDART PENINSULA . 179 Cromarty Firth . .224 Rousay . .289 WALKING IN THE GREAT Tain & Around . .225 GLEN & LOCHABAR . 180 Stronsay . 291 Portmahomack . .226 Eday . .292 Bonar Bridge & Around . 227 SKYE & THE Sanday . .293 Lairg . 227 WESTERN ISLES . 182 Westray . .294 Dornoch . .228 ISLE OF SKYE . 184 North Ronaldsay . .297 Golspie . .229 Broadford (An T-Ath WALKING IN THE ORKNEY Leathann) . 186 Brora. 231 ISLANDS . .298 Sleat . 187 Helmsdale . .232 Elgol (Ealaghol) . 188 CAITHNESS . .232 SHETLAND Cuillin Hills . 188 Lybster & Around . .233 ISLANDS . 300 Minginish . 189 Wick . .234 LERWICK . .302 Portree (Port Righ) . 190 John O’Groats . .235 CENTRAL & WEST Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) . 193 NORTH & WEST COASTS . .239 MAINLAND . .308 Trotternish . 194 Thurso to Durness . .239 Scalloway . .308 Isle of Raasay . 195 Durness . .242 Weisdale & Around . .309 SMALL ISLES . 196 Cape Wrath . .243 West Side . 310 Isle of Rum . 196 Durness to Ullapool . .244 SOUTH MAINLAND . 312 Isle of Eigg . 197 Ullapool . .253 Sandwick & Around . 312 Isle of Muck . 198 Ullapool to Plockton . 257 Sumburgh . 313 Isle of Canna . 198 WALKING IN THE NORTH- NORTH MAINLAND . 314 WEST HIGHLANDS . .263 WESTERN ISLES . 199 Brae & Around . 315 Lewis (Leodhais) . 201 Northmavine Peninsula . 315 Harris (Na Hearadh) . 207 ORKNEY ISLANDS . 267 THE NORTH ISLES . 317 Berneray (Bearnaraigh) . 211 STROMNESS . 270 Yell . 317 North Uist (Uibhist A Tuath) . 211 WEST MAINLAND . 272 Unst . 318 South Uist (Uibhist A Deas) . 212 Heart of Neolithic Orkney . 272 Fetlar . .320 Barra (Barraigh) . 213 Birsay . 275 FAIR ISLE . .320 WALKING IN SKYE & THE Evie . 276 WALKING IN THE WESTERN ISLES . 215 KIRKWALL . 277 SHETLAND ISLANDS . 321 10a-on_the_road_title-shi2.indd 41 5/10/2011 3:13:51 PM 02-destination-map-shi2.indd 4 5/10/2011 1:16:15 PM 02-destination-map-shi2.indd 5 5/10/2011 1:16:21 PM OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and.