©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 40 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Shetland Islands p300

Orkney Islands p267

Skye & the Northwest Western Isles Highlands p182 p218

Great Glen Central & Highlands p148 p114 Walking the West Way p106 Southern Highlands &Islands p42

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 355 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

set o Directory A–Z ...... 356 too much B&Bs & Gu B&Bs are a Scott tion. At the bottom get a bedroom in a pr house, a shared bathro Transport ...... 365 and a fry-up (juice, coՖe or tea, cereal and cooked Directory breakfast – bacon, eggs, sausage, baked beans and toast). Midrange B&Bs have en suite bathrooms, TVs in Glossary ...... 371 A-Z each room and more variety (and healthier options) for breakfast. Almost all B&Bs 75% of the price of a double provide hospitality trays (tea- Accommodation for your single room. and coՖ ee-making facilities) Almost all B&Bs, guest- provides a com- in bedrooms. Also excellent houses and hotels (and are farm B&Bs, which oՖer Index ...... 374 prehensive choice of accom- even some hostels) provide modation to suit all visitors. traditional Scottish hospital- breakfast; if this is not the ity, huge breakfasts and a In this book accommodation case, then it is mentioned in choices are Á agged with quiet rural setting – good fo individual reviews throughout discharging urban grit. Pub price indicators, based on the this book. cheapest accommodation for may also oՖ er cheap (and Prices increase over the sometimes noisy) B&B a Map Legend ...... 383 two people in high season: peak tourist season (June to can be good fun. September) and are at their up to £50 Guesthouses, often highest in July and August. converted private ho from £50 to £130 Outside of these months, are an extension o and particularly in winter, £130 and over concept. They a special deals are often avail- larger and mo avel, the options able at guesthouses and than B&Bs ostels and hotels. Smaller establish- food an and ments will often close from co around November to March, particularly in more rem

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Neil Wilson

00-title-map-shi2.indd 1 6/10/2011 11:17:05 AM Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS WALKING IN THE SOUTHERN ...... 137 & ISLANDS ...... 42 HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . 102 Alford ...... 137 LOMOND & AROUND ...44 Craigievar Castle ...... 137 ...... 44 WALKING THE WEST Lecht Ski Resort ...... 138 Arrochar...... 48 HIGHLAND WAY . . . .106 DEESIDE ...... 138 THE & Planning...... 107 Ballater ...... 138 AROUND ...... 49 Day One: Milngavie to Balmoral Castle ...... 139

Aberfoyle & Around ...... 49 Drymen ...... 109 ...... 139

Callander ...... 50 Day Two: Drymen to THE ANGUS GLENS ...... 141 Rowardennan ...... 110 Killin ...... 53 Kirriemuir ...... 141 Day Three: Rowardennan to

COWAL PENINSULA ...... 54 Inverarnan ...... 110 Glen Clova ...... 142 & Around ...... 55 Day Four: Inverarnan to Edzell ...... 143 ’s West Coast ...... 56 ...... 111 BLAIRGOWRIE & ...... 57 Day Five: Tyndrum to Kings GLENSHEE ...... 144 ...... 60 House Hotel ...... 111 WALKING IN THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS ...... 145 & Around ...... 61 Day Six: to ...... 112 ...... 63 Day Seven: Kinlochleven to THE & ...... 65 Fort William ...... 113 LOCHABER ...... 148 ...... 65 ...... 149 MID- ...... 68 CENTRAL AROUND INVERNESS ...... 156 ...... 68 HIGHLANDS ...... 114 Culloden Battlefi eld...... 156 ...... 69 WEST ...... 115 Fort George ...... 156

Kilmartin Glen...... 70 Aberfeldy ...... 115 Nairn...... 157 & AROUND ...... 71 Kenmore ...... 118 Cawdor ...... 157 Isle of ...... 77 Loch Tay ...... 118 WEST OF INVERNESS ...... 158 NORTH ARGYLL ...... 78 ...... 119 Beauly ...... 158 ...... 78 Moor ...... 121 ...... 159 & Around ...... 79 Corrour Station ...... 121 Drumnadrochit ...... 160 Isle of Lismore ...... 80 PERTH TO BLAIR CASTLE . . . 122 Fort Augustus ...... 161 SOUTHERN ...... 81 Pitlochry ...... 123 THE ROAD TO SKYE ...... 162 Isle of ...... 81 Pass of Killiecrankie...... 126 Eilean Donan Castle ...... 163 Isle of Jura ...... 86 THE ...... 127 Glenelg ...... 164 Isle of ...... 88 Aviemore ...... 127 Kyle of ...... 165 ...... 90 Loch Morlich ...... 131 FORT WILLIAM ...... 165 Isle of ...... 97 ...... 134 AROUND FORT WILLIAM. . . . 169 Isle of ...... 99 Duff town ...... 134 ...... 169 Isle of ...... 100 Tomintoul...... 136 ...... 171

10a-on_the_road_title-shi2.indd 40 5/10/2011 3:13:41 PM See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Glencoe Village ...... 172 NORTHWEST EAST MAINLAND TO Kinlochleven ...... 174 HIGHLANDS ...... 218 ...... 282 Lamb Holm ...... 283 LOCHABER ...... 174 EAST COAST ...... 219 ...... 283 ROAD TO THE ISLES . . . . . 176 ...... 219 SOUTH ISLES ...... 285 Glenfi nnan...... 176 Strathpeff er ...... 222 & ...... 285 & ...... 177 & Around ...... 223 ...... 288 ...... 178 Dingwall ...... 224 ...... 289 PENINSULA . . 179 Cromarty ...... 224 ...... 289 WALKING IN THE GREAT Tain & Around ...... 225 GLEN & LOCHABAR ...... 180 ...... 291 Portmahomack ...... 226 ...... 292 Bonar Bridge & Around . . . . . 227 SKYE & THE Sanday ...... 293 ...... 227 WESTERN ISLES . . . 182 ...... 294 Dornoch ...... 228 ...... 184 ...... 297 Golspie ...... 229 Broadford (An T-Ath WALKING IN THE Leathann) ...... 186 Brora...... 231 ISLANDS ...... 298 ...... 187 Helmsdale ...... 232 Elgol (Ealaghol) ...... 188 ...... 232 Hills ...... 188 Lybster & Around ...... 233 ISLANDS ...... 300 ...... 189 Wick ...... 234 ...... 302 Portree (Port Righ) ...... 190 John O’Groats ...... 235 CENTRAL & WEST Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) . . 193 NORTH & WEST COASTS . . .239 MAINLAND ...... 308 ...... 194 Thurso to ...... 239 ...... 308 Isle of ...... 195 Durness ...... 242 Weisdale & Around ...... 309 ...... 196 Cape Wrath ...... 243 West Side ...... 310 Isle of Rum ...... 196 Durness to ...... 244 ...... 312 Isle of ...... 197 Ullapool ...... 253 Sandwick & Around ...... 312 Isle of Muck ...... 198 Ullapool to Plockton ...... 257 Sumburgh ...... 313 Isle of Canna ...... 198 WALKING IN THE NORTH- ...... 314 WEST HIGHLANDS ...... 263 WESTERN ISLES ...... 199 & Around ...... 315 Lewis (Leodhais) ...... 201 Peninsula . . . . 315

Harris (Na Hearadh) ...... 207 ORKNEY ISLANDS . . 267 THE NORTH ISLES ...... 317 (Bearnaraigh) . . . . 211 ...... 270 Yell ...... 317 North (Uibhist A Tuath) . . 211 ...... 272 ...... 318 (Uibhist A Deas) . . 212 Heart of Orkney . . . 272 ...... 320 (Barraigh) ...... 213 Birsay ...... 275 ...... 320 WALKING IN SKYE & THE Evie ...... 276 WALKING IN THE WESTERN ISLES ...... 215 ...... 277 SHETLAND ISLANDS ...... 321

10a-on_the_road_title-shi2.indd 41 5/10/2011 3:13:51 PM 02-destination-map-shi2.indd 4 5/10/2011 1:16:15 PM 02-destination-map-shi2.indd 5 5/10/2011 1:16:21 PM OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Neil was born in Scotland and save for a few years spent abroad has lived there most of his life. A lifelong enthusiasm for the great outdoors has inspired hiking, biking and sailing expeditions to every corner of the country. While research- ing this book he fulfi lled a long-held ambition to climb on a gloriously sunny spring day, sampled single malts at Highland Park Distillery and picnicked among the puffi ns at . Neil has been a full-time author since 1988 and has written more than 50 guidebooks for various publishers, including Lonely Planet’s guides to Scotland and his home town of . Read more about Neil at: lonelyplanet.com/members/neilwilson

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 2nd edition – January 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74059 537 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

29-authors-shi2.indd 384 5/10/2011 1:00:32 PM 25

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Assynt #•

#• Moray Firth

É É

#•

#• Inverness #• Isle of Skye #• Plockton Sea of the

Hebrides É

Mallaig #• #• Silver Sands #•

of Morar #• Glen Coe #• É #•

#• Falls of Dochart Firth of Forth ATLANTIC É OCEAN #• Loch Katrine #• The Trossachs

Two Weeks A Highland Fling

Begin this tour with a visit to the Trossachs for your fi rst taste of Highland scenery; take a cruise on Loch Katrine and spend the night in Callander. Continue north via the Falls of Dochart at Killin and the fringes of Rannoch Moor. The mountain scenery becomes more impressive, culminating in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill walkers will pause for a day at Fort William to climb Ben Nevis (plus another day to recover!) before taking the Road to the Isles past glorious Glenfi nnan and the Silver Sands of Morar, to Mallaig. Overnight here and dine at one of its seafood restaurants. Take the ferry to the Isle of Skye, spending a day or two exploring Scotland’s most fa- mous island before crossing the Skye Bridge back to the mainland, then head north via the pretty village of Plockton to the magnifi cent mountain scenery of Glen Torridon. Spend a day or two hiking here, then follow the A832 alongside lovely Loch Maree and continue north into the big-sky wilderness of Coigach and , before making your way back south with an overnight in Inverness.

07-itineraries-shi2.indd 25 3/10/2011 5:38:42 PM

and Ber- 3/10/2011 5:38:45 PM3/10/2011 5:38:45 PM Coigach NORTH SEA shing rod, lookshing fi Orkney Islands Lewis. #• Thurso #• Firth Callanish Standing ,

Moray É Inverness #• ; you’ll arrive in the evening so plan to Durness

#• É Barra #•

Ullapool

Coigach Assynt Cape É Wrath #• #• . Pray for sun, as the road along Harris’ for sun, as the road along Harris’ . Pray Harris #• Oban #• The Minch #• Lewis

#•

Ta r b e r t É #• É #• #• #• #• Blackhouse #• ve-hour ferry crossing to #• Hebrides Sea of the #• #• #• Harris #• (eat at Digby Chick), the then take in Stornoway nal night in the Hebrides Callanish fi Dun Berneray Barra OCEAN and Durness to Thurso, where the ferry to the Orkney Islands Wrath Cape ATLANTIC Standing Stones South Uist it’s a fi Oban it’s nish accessible by rail). CalMac’s Island Hopscotch ticket No 8 includes all the fer- ticket No Hopscotch Island nish accessible by rail). CalMac’s but the Oban–Barra–Stornoway–Ullapool–In- This route is usually done by car, a brilliant cycle miles, including the 60 tour (around 270 verness loop also makes train station, making both startmiles from Ullapool ferry and Inverness terminal to fi is a must before taking the ferry to Miavaig & Traigh Uige , as this is prime birdwatching country. If you’re camping or hostelling, a night at If you’re , as this is prime birdwatching country. Don’t go directly to Stornoway, but take a turn west to the but take Don’t go directly to Stornoway, Spend your From From your binoculars the road north handy as you follow through Benbecula and North awaits. Assynt, , or continu- ferry the choice of heading straight to Inverness to Ullapool, where you have wilderness of ing north around the mainland coast through the jaw-dropping museum – the highlights of the Western broch and Arnol Blackhouse museum – the highlights of the Western is ideal), detour days west to the beautiful beaches around time (two If you have Isles. of wild and semiwild camping, plenty or an unusual ; there’s Uige and Traigh Miavaig Hotel. overnight option in the Gallan Head spend the night there (book ahead). In the morning, afterspend the night there (book ahead). In Castle a visit to romantic Kisimul along the wild beaches ferry the and a tour around the island, take to South Uist. Walk if you’veof the west coast, sample the local seafood and, brought your neray west coast has some of the most spectacular beaches in Scotland. Themain road continues hills to (good hotels) through the rugged Harris north from Tarbert ries needed for the part of this route. ries needed for the Outer Hebrides Uist forward to a bit of sport on the island’s many trout lochs. There at trout lochs. many are good places to stay forward to a bit of sport on the island’s and nights should be enough). (two Polochar, Island Hopscotch Island Two Weeks Two 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 07-itineraries-shi2.indd 2607-itineraries-shi2.indd 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 27 and Braemar. 3/10/2011 5:38:45 PM3/10/2011 5:38:45 PM Firth of Forth Balmoral Castle Ballater Dufftown #•

Rothiemurchus . Over- William Fort Argyll & the Isles Heart of the Highlands town, the capital of #• É Glenlivet #• Cairngorm Mountain Cairngorm Tomintoul , in the heartAviemore Braemar É #• #• #• Glenshee Ski Resort #•

Ballater. #• É . nish up in Inverness #• ; then it’s back roads ; then it’s Tomintoul #• #• Railway Pitlochry Mountain . Cairngorm Beginning in Pitlochry, abandon the main to the north and enjoy scenic drive east across the a day’s and then north hills on the A924, on #• #• Folk before spending yourBalmoral Castle Glenlivet to Duff Rothiemurchus

Aviemore Then head west, stopping to discover the From here the rollercoaster A939 takes From É Museum Highland Loch Lomond #• #• night here, then spend a morning exploring and head northGlen Nevis along the Great and Loch Castle Glen to see Urquhart time for a monster-spotting – leave Ness cruise – and fi Railway at Newtonmore Museum Folk Highland before continuing to to take a trip on the to take of Cairngorm National Park. You’ll need at You’ll Park. of Cairngorm National to explore nights here for time theleast two ancient pine forests of Speyside . Next day, take your time take day, Next Speyside whisky. visiting distilleries as you amble west along the Spey to One Week One Heart theHighlands of via the A93 through the ski area of Glenshee to outpost of the remote Highland Spend a night here, and the following day or in the Cairngorm hills nearby either hike visit second night at you north to É #•

É

Inverness É Glen Nevis Dunoon É #• #• Loch Awe Glen Coe Inveraray #÷ Loch Ness #• #• #• #• Oban. #• Fort Portavadie Urquhart Castle #• Oban Garden Botanic William Benmore #• #•

#• É shing village Campbeltown #•

É #• #•

Duart

Castle

#•

É É Ta r b e r t #• #• Isle

É of Mull #• #• #• Kilmartin Glen #• Isle of Point near the – to and Loch Lomond. Mull of Kintyre Iona Tobermory Beaver Detective Trail Isle of Islay Begin with a scenic drive across the Cowal peninsula from Dunoon to , via Benmore Botanic Portavadie Garden and Tighnabruaich, then OCEAN , making sure to visit Duart of Mull Isle Glen Coe and the minor road through . Devote a day to exploring. Devote the a day Tarbert ATLANTIC . From here you can take an- here you can take . From Tobermory Head back south via the scenic splendour Head Take the ferry to Craignure for a tour of Take Back on the mainland, head north . From here . From to reach Loch Awe you can return to your starting point by way of Inveraray of other ferry to to , allowing a trip , the most westerly Ardnamurchan Point point of the British mainland, before the scenic drive along the shores of Loch to Corran Ferry. the , before spending a night and Iona Castle at Beaver De- – visit the Beaver through Knapdale tective Trail the prehistoric sites of Kilmartin Glen and then on to the bustling ferry port of take the ferry fi take to the pretty of peninsula, taking in Campbel- Kintyre and a trip to the of Kintyre town, the Mull days of Gigha. Then allow at least two Isle and its famous distilleries. for touring Islay Argyll & The Isles 10 Days 07-itineraries-shi2.indd 2707-itineraries-shi2.indd 27 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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