BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henrg W. Sage 1891 A.'XHvSpa a^iffiHw CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 091 786 248 m Cornell University Library -^1 The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924091786248 THE BOOK OF ARRAN Impression SSO Copies ARRAN. -p Bryce. frontispiece. f Photograph by Prof. T.ll. THE BOOK OF ARRAN EDITED BY J. A. BALFOUR, F.R.Hist.S., F.S.A.Scot. ARCHEOLOGY THE ARRAN SOCIETY OF GLASGOW HUGH HOPKINS: GLASGOW MCMX S TO MARY LOUISE MARCHIONESS OF GRAHAM (nee DOUGLAS HAMILTON) THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED PREFACE When this volume was first projected, it was believed that the archaeological record of the island would form but a portion of a book dealing with both the archaeology and the history of Arran, but, as the work progressed, it was seen that much of interest would have to remain unrecorded if this plan were adhered to. The ' Book Committee ' of the Arran Society, on having represented to them that a complete archaeological survey of the island was desirable, willingly consented that this should be made. The result of that survey is now presented. The voliune, for convenience, has been divided into three sections : 1st, Prehistoric Period ; 2nd, Protohistoric Period; 3rd, Historic Period—^with various records under each heading. It should, however, be distinctly under- stood that the divisions are not used in any arbitrary sense : the science of archaeology has demonstrated that no divi- sional line can with accuracy be drawn, separating the records of vast undated ages. Scientifically, reference is usually made to the Stone Age Culture, the Bronze Age Culture, and the Iron Age Culture, and the ' various memorials placed under these headings ; this has bearing only on progression and not on time. For illustration, it is quite probable that the British Isles were still in the Stone Age when the great Eastern civilisations were at the zenith of their glory. The purpose of the division here adopted is viu THE BOOK OF ARRAN merely to present the various articles in an order as nearly chronological as possible. To the main sections are added an Introduction dealing with the geological evolution of the island, and a Miscellanea to gather in the smaller archaeological notes. With regard to the spelling of place-names, it was found that in many cases diverse forms were in use, and in some instances the names were so corrupted as to be meaningless. By the desire of the Arran Society, expert opinion has been obtained, and the rendering of names in this volume is believed to have been brought into accordance with Gaelic orthography and correct pronunciation. It was not, however, thought advisable to insist on uniformity of Gaelic spelling throughout, and a number of the more familiar place-names have been left imtouched, though their form is unquestionably wrong. A list giving names as on the Ordnance map, and their amended forms, will be found at the end of the volume. I desire to express, most cordially, my appreciation of the willing permission granted by the Marquis and Marchioness of Graham to excavate, where necessary, the various structures throughout the island ; and, at the same time, to thank their factor, Mr. A. Hugh Douglas, and the various officers of the Arran estate, for their kind assistance during the progress of the work. To Sir Archibald Geikie I am much indebted for under- taking, amid the pressiu-e of other work, the valuable con- tribution that forms the Introduction to this volmne; he wrote, ' My love for the island was kindled in boyhood, and it has burned warmly ever since.' I am sure every reader will feel grateful to him for the testimony to that love which ' PREFACE ix here appears. My debt to Professor Thomas H. Bryce is also large, not only for his contribution, but for the deep interest he has taken in this volume throughout, and for the great help he has given me. To Messrs. Erik Brate, F. R. Coles, F. C. Eeles, and C. E. Whitelaw, I owe sincere thanks for their contributions. I further desire to record my appreciation of valuable counsel on various archaeological points afforded to me by Dr. Joseph Anderson of the National Museum of Antiquities, and Dr. Haaken Schetelig of Bergens Museum, Bergen. To the Council of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, I desire, on behalf of this Society, to tender grateful thanks for the generous loan of blocks, which have formed a large number of the illustrations in this book. These illustrations are marked thus (S. A.). I am obliged to Messrs. Angus MacAlister and W. Brand Young for plans of various structures ; to Mr. J. MacNaught Campbell of Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow, for photographs of urns and drawing of stone axe. The various friends on the island who arranged for work- men for the excavation of the structures in their neighbour- hoods I warmly thank, and would specially mention the following members of the Society resident on the island, on whom a large burden was laid : —Messrs. Donald MacKelvie, Lamlash ; A. N. MacNeil, Kildonan ; and Alexander MacAlister, Millfield, Kilpatrick. In this connection I am also much obliged for the personal help rendered by a number of farmers in the various districts. I also have to thank the Rev. J. E. Keir, South Queens- ferry, and other friends, for the reading of proof sheets. In conclusion, I desire to express to the Book Committee of this Society my appreciation of their loyal support to me X THE BOOK OF ARRAN as editor, and all of their number will judge it but fitting that I should specially mention the untiring interest in and work done for this volume by their late Convener, Mr. William J. MacAlister; personally I cannot thank him too warmly. J. A. BALFOUR. Glasgow, March, 19IO. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION PAGE THE BUILDING-UP OF THE ISLAND. By Sib Archibald Geikie, K.C.B., D.C.L., Pres.R.S., 3 PREHISTORIC PERIOD THE SEPULCHRAL REMAINS. By Professor Thomas H. Brycb, M.A., M.D., 33 CUP AND RING-MARKED ROCKS. By Fbed. R. Coles, National Museum of Antiquities, ....... 166 PROTOHISTORIC PERIOD VIKING BURIALS. By The Editor, 165 FORTIFIED AND DOMESTIC SITES. By The Editor, 172 AN IRISH-CELTIC MONASTERY. By The Editor, . .195 HISTORIC PERIOD THE KING'S CAVE. By The Editor, 213 CHAPELS AND SCULPTURED STONES. By The Editor, . 219 ON THE EFFIGY OF AN ABBOT AT SHISKEN : WITH A NOTE ON THE FORMS OF VESTMENTS ON WEST HIGHLAND MONU- MENTS. By F. C. Eeles, F.R.Hist.S.,F.S.A.Scot., . 233 THE CASTLES. By C. E. Whitelaw, LA., F. S.A.Scot., . .241 THE HOLY ISLE. By The Editor, . .262 RUNIC INSCRIPTIONS IN THE CELL OF ST. MOLAISE. By Dr. Erik Brate, Lektor, Member of the Royal Academy of Antiquities, Stockholm, Sweden, .... ..... 261 MISCELLANEA. By The Editor, . .... 271 ARRAN PLACE-NAMES, ... 287 INDEX, ... .... 290 LIST OF PLATES ' Arran Frontispiece 1. Carn Ban 37 11. East Bennan Cairn and Giants' Graves 46 in. ToRLiN Cairn ..... 54 IV. Claichaig and Slidderie Cairns 56 V. Tormore Cairn .... 64 VI. MOINECHOILL AND ToRMORE CaIRNS 68 VII. North Chamber, D<jnan Beag Cairn 75 VIII. South Chamber, Dijnan Beag Cairn 78 IX. Relics from Dunan Beag and Tormore Farm Cairns 79 X. Dunan Mor Cairn, and Flint Knive from same 82 XI. Megalithic Structure, Kilchoan, and Cairn, Kilmartin 88 XII. Urns from Cairns ....... 90 XIII. Urns from Cairns ... ... 91 XIV. Skulls from Torlin Cairn ..... 94 XV. Skulls from Clachaig (Limekiln) Chamber 95 XVI. Tumulus, Scalpsie Bay. Sandstone Pillar, Tormore 105 xTii. Stone Circle, Tormore ...... lis XVIII. Stone Circle, Achangallon. Stone Circle, summit Brodick AND Lamlash Road 119 XIX. Circle, Achaleffen, Kilmorie Water 122 XX. Standing Stone, Achencar 125 XXI. Cinerary Urns ..... 130 XXII. Human Crania ..... 134 xxiii. Glecknabae and Ardenadam Cairns . 140 XXIV. Rock Sculptures, Stronach Ridge 158 XXV. Viking Grave-mound, Kings Cross 165 XXVI. Relics from Viking Grave 167 XIV THE BOOK OF ARRAN 169 XXVII. Viking Umbo and Sax . ... XXVIII. FoRTj North Glen Sannox . • • .175 XXIX. Kings Cross .... ..... 183 XXX. Vallum of Forts, Kings Cross and Gleneasdale . 185 XXXI. The Doon Fort ..... 189 xxxii. Irish-Celtic Monastery, Kilpatrick .... 195 xxxiii. King's Cave. Fragment of Bronze found in the Cave 213 XXXIV. Sculptures, King's Cave ... 217 XXXV. Chapels, St. Bride's, Lamlash and Lochranza . 219 xxxvi. Sculptured Stones, Lamlash . 220 XXXVII. Sculptured Stones, Kilbride Churchyard, Lamlash . 222 xxxvni. Sculptured Stones, Kilbride Churchyard, Lamlash . 224 XXXIX. Sculptured Stones, Sannox and Lochranza .... 225 XL. Sculptured Stone, Clachan Churchyard . 230 xLi. Effigy of a Bishop, Shisken. A Fourteenth Century English Brass . 233 XLii. Brodick Castle . > . • 241 xliii. Lochranza Castle . 245 XLiv. Lochranza Castle . 248 XLV. Kildonan Castle. Stocks, Brodick Castle . 250 xLvi. St. Molaise's Cell, Holy Isle . ... 255 ' ' XLVii. St. Molaise's Well and Judgment Stone . 258 xLviii. Runic Inscription, Cell of St. Molaise . .261 xnx. Stone Implements. Axes ...... 276 L. Implements. Flint Stone Arrow-heads, etc. 277 LI. Stone Implements. Stone Ball. Whorls. 278 Lii. Bronze Palstaves ... 278 Liii. Stone Axe, Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow .... 285 Map In pocket at end of volume INTRODUCTION The Building-up of the Island THE BUILDING-UP OF THE ISLAND. By Sir Archibald Geikie, k.c.b., d.c.l., pres.k.s. Rising with Alpine dignity from the broad expanse of the Firth of Clyde, Arran has long enjoyed a special popularity among Scottish islands. It has seemed to be a characteristic piece of Highland scenery somehow set down in the midst of a southern estuary, so as to be easily accessible to the' popu- lation of the Lowlands.