PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Orkney & Shetland Islands p403

Northern Highlands &Islands p351

Northeast Inverness & the Scotland Central Highlands p223 p311 Central Scotland Southern Highlands p180 &Islands p259 _# Edinburgh Glasgow^# p40 p101 Southern Scotland p135 NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

PAGE SURVIVAL YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE 477 How to get around, get a room, GUIDE stay safe, say hello

Directory A-Z ...... 478 FERRIES TO/FROM NORTHERN I Transport ...... 487 we CROSSING DURATION FREQUENCY Belfast–Stranraer 3¼hr 2-4 daily Belfast–Stranraer 1¾hr 4 daily Glossary ...... 493 SK; Larne–Cairnryan 1¾hr 8 daily Index ...... 502 r. Larne–Cairnryan 1hr 2 daily (Mar-Se Larne–Troon 1¾hr 2 daily (Mar-Se Map Legend ...... 515 ir e. Train Travelling to Scotland by train Sea is usually faster and more Continenta comfortable than the bus, but Norfolk Line ( more expensive Taking into line com) rnsa

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Neil Wilson Andy Symington

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Cuillin Hills In a country famous for stunning scenery, the Cuillin Hills (p 382 ) take top prize. This range of 1 near-alpine craggy peaks has knife-edge ridges, jagged pinnacles, scree-fi lled gullies and acres of naked rock. Though a paradise for experienced mountaineers – the higher reaches of the Cuillin are off -limits to most walkers – there are easy trails through glens and corries where walkers can take in the views and share the landscape with red deer and golden eagles.

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Edinburgh Scotland’s capital 2 (p 40 ) may be famous for its festivals, but there’s much more to it than that. Edinburgh is a city of many moods: visit out of season to see the Old Town silhouetted against a blue spring sky, and a yellow haze of daff odils; or on a chill December morning with the fog snagging the spires of the Royal Mile, rain on the cobblestones and a warm glow beckoning from the window of a pub. Charlotte Square, Edinburgh JOHN SHORT / PHOTOLIBRARY.COM

Wildlife Sparsely populated, and with large areas of wilderness, Scotland is an important sanctuary 3 for animals of every kind. Amazing birdwatching is on off er everywhere, but the seabird cities of the Shetland Islands (p 435 ) are the highlight. Capercaillie, corncrakes, ospreys, sea eagles and red kites are other avian drawcards, while red deer roam the uplands, pine martens and wildcats stalk the forests, and dolphins, whales, otters and orcas splash about in the northern waters.

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EDINBURGH ...... 40 DUMFRIES & NORTHEAST Midlothian ...... 88 GALLOWAY ...... 166 SCOTLAND ...... 223 Dumfries ...... 166 East Lothian ...... 90 DUNDEE & ANGUS ...... 225 Annandale & Eskdale . . . . .169 West Lothian ...... 91 Dundee ...... 225 Castle Douglas & Around . . 171 Broughty Ferry ...... 230 Kirkcudbright ...... 172 GLASGOW ...... 101 Glamis Castle & Village . . 232 Gatehouse of Fleet...... 173 Inverclyde ...... 131 Arbroath...... 232 Galloway Forest Park . . . . . 174 Blantyre ...... 133 Montrose ...... 234 St John’s Town of Dalry . . . 175 The Campsies & Kirriemuir ...... 234 Strathblane ...... 134 Newton Stewart ...... 175 Angus Glens ...... 235 The Machars ...... 176 Edzell ...... 236 SOUTHERN Stranraer ...... 177 Brechin ...... 236 SCOTLAND ...... 135 Portpatrick ...... 178 BORDERS REGION ...... 138 ABERDEENSHIRE & MORAY ...... 237 Cockburnspath ...... 138 CENTRAL Aberdeen ...... 237 Coldingham & St Abbs . . .138 SCOTLAND ...... 180 Deeside ...... 247 Eyemouth ...... 139 STIRLING REGION ...... 181 Strathdon ...... 250 Duns & Around ...... 140 Stirling ...... 181 Northern Aberdeenshire . .251 Lammermuir Hills ...... 141 The Trossachs ...... 190 Moray ...... 253 Coldstream ...... 141 FIFE ...... 195 Kelso ...... 142 Culross ...... 195 SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Melrose ...... 144 Dunfermline ...... 196 & ISLANDS ...... 259 Selkirk ...... 146 Aberdour ...... 196 LOCH LOMOND & Jedburgh ...... 147 Kirkcaldy ...... 196 AROUND ...... 261 Hawick ...... 148 Falkland ...... 197 Loch Lomond ...... 261 Hermitage Castle ...... 149 St Andrews ...... 197 Helensburgh ...... 264 Peebles...... 149 East Neuk ...... 204 Arrochar ...... 265 SOUTH LANARKSHIRE . . 151 PERTHSHIRE & SOUTH ARGYLL ...... 265 Lanark & New Lanark . . . . 151 KINROSS ...... 207 Cowal ...... 265 Biggar ...... 152 Kinross & Loch Leven . . . 207 Isle of Bute ...... 268 AYRSHIRE & ARRAN . . . . . 153 Perth ...... 208 Inveraray ...... 270 North Ayrshire ...... 154 Strathearn ...... 212 Crinan Canal ...... 271 Isle of Arran ...... 155 West Perthshire ...... 213 Kilmartin Glen ...... 271 East Ayrshire ...... 161 Perth to Blair Castle . . . . .217 Kintyre ...... 272 South Ayrshire ...... 161 Blairgowrie & Glenshee . . .221 Isle of Islay ...... 275

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On the Road

Isle of Jura ...... 279 SMALL ISLES ...... 347 Portree ...... 383 Isle of Colonsay ...... 282 Isle of Rum ...... 348 Dunvegan ...... 386 OBAN & MULL ...... 283 Isle of Eigg ...... 349 Duirinish & Waternish . . . 386 Oban ...... 283 Isle of Muck ...... 350 Trotternish ...... 387 Isle of Mull ...... 289 Isle of Canna ...... 350 Isle of Raasay ...... 388 Isle of Iona ...... 296 OUTER HEBRIDES ...... 388 Isle of Coll ...... 297 NORTHERN Lewis...... 391 Isle of Tiree ...... 299 HIGHLANDS & Harris ...... 395 ISLANDS ...... 351 NORTH ARGYLL ...... 300 Berneray ...... 397 EAST COAST ...... 354 Loch Awe ...... 300 North Uist ...... 397 Strathpeffer...... 354 Connel & Taynuilt ...... 300 Benbecula ...... 399 Tain ...... 355 Appin & Around ...... 310 South Uist ...... 399 Portmahomack ...... 355 Lismore ...... 310 Eriskay ...... 400 Bonar Bridge & Around . . 356 Barra ...... 400 INVERNESS & Lairg ...... 356 Pabbay, Mingulay & THE CENTRAL Dornoch ...... 357 Berneray ...... 402 HIGHLANDS ...... 311 Golspie ...... 358 ORKNEY & SHETLAND INVERNESS & THE Helmsdale ...... 358 ISLANDS ...... 403 GREAT GLEN...... 314 CAITHNESS ...... 359 ORKNEY ISLANDS ...... 405 Inverness ...... 314 Helmsdale to Lybster . . . 359 Kirkwall ...... 406 Black Isle ...... 322 Wick ...... 360 East Mainland to South Loch Ness ...... 324 John O’Groats ...... 361 Fort Augustus ...... 326 Ronaldsay ...... 410 NORTH & WEST COAST . .364 South Mainland ...... 412 THE CAIRNGORMS ...... 327 Thurso to Durness ...... 364 West & North Mainland . . .412 Aviemore ...... 327 Durness ...... 366 Stromness ...... 414 Grantown-on-Spey ...... 332 Ullapool ...... 370 Hoy ...... 417 Kingussie & Newtonmore . .333 Kyle of Lochalsh ...... 376 Northern Islands ...... 418 WEST HIGHLANDS ...... 334 Kyle to the Great Glen . . . .377 SHETLAND ISLANDS . . . .424 Glen Coe ...... 334 ISLE OF SKYE ...... 378 Kinlochleven ...... 337 Lerwick ...... 424 Kyleakin ...... 380 Fort William ...... 337 Bressay & Noss ...... 430 Broadford...... 381 Ardgour & Central & West Mainland . . 430 Ardnamurchan ...... 343 Sleat ...... 381 South Mainland ...... 431 Salen to Lochailort...... 344 Elgol ...... 382 Fair Isle ...... 433 Road to the Isles ...... 344 Cuillin Hills ...... 382 North Mainland...... 433 Knoydart Peninsula . . . . . 347 Minginish ...... 383 The North Isles ...... 435

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Why Go? Sights ...... 43 Edinburgh is a city that begs to be explored. From the vaults and wynds (narrow lanes) that riddle the Old Town6 Activities ...... 63 6 Quirky Edinburgh ...... 64 to the urban villages of Stockbridge and Cramond, it’s fi lled with quirky, come-hither nooks that tempt you to walk just Tours ...... 66 a little bit further. And every corner turned reveals sudden Festivals & Events ...... 67 views and unexpected vistas – green sunlit hills, a glimpse Sleeping ...... 69 of rust-red crags, a blue fl ash of distant sea. But there’s more to Edinburgh than sightseeing – there6 Eating...... 74 Drinking ...... 78 are top shops, world-class restaurants and a bacchanalia of bars to enjoy. This is a city of pub crawls and impromptu Entertainment ...... 81 music sessions, mad-for-it clubbing and all-night parties, Shopping ...... 84 overindulgence, late nights and wandering home through cobbled streets at dawn. A ll these superlatives come together in August at festival6 6 Best Places to time, when it seems as if half the world descends on Edin- Stay burgh for one enormous party. If you can possibly manage » Witchery by the Castle it, join them. (p 69 ) » Hotel Missoni (p69 ) 66 » Six Mary’s Place (p 71 ) W h e n t o G o » Southside Guest House Edinburgh (p72 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 10/250 » Prestonfield House Hotel 30/86 8/200 (p72 ) 20/68 6/15066 Best Places to Eat 10/50 4/100 0/32 2/50 » O u t s i d e r ( p 7 4 ) -10/14 0 » O n d i n e ( p 7 4 ) J FDM A M J J A S O N » O l o r o s o ( p 7 6 ) » C a f é M a r l a y n e ( p 7 6 ) May Good August Festival December Christ- weather (usually), time! Crowded mas decorations, » F i s h e r s B i s t r o ( p 7 7 ) flowers and cherry and mad but cosy pubs with blossom every- unmissable. open fires, ice where, and (gasp!) skating in Princes no crowds. Street Gardens.

008-edinburgh-sco6.indd8-edinburgh-sco6.indd 4400 225/11/20105/11/2010 111:47:241:47:24 AAMM 42 EDINBURGH IN… Two Days A two-day trip to Edinburgh should start at Edinburgh Castle, followed by a stroll down the Royal Mile to the Scottish parliament building and the Palace of Holy- roodhouse. You can work up an appetite by climbing Arthur’s Seat, then satisfy your hunger with dinner at Oloroso while you watch the sun set over the Firth of Forth. On EDINBURGH day two spend the morning in the Museum of Scotland then catch the bus to Leith for a visit to the Royal Yacht Britannia. In the evening have dinner at one of Leith’s many excellent restaurants, or scare yourself silly on a guided ghost tour. Four Days

Two more days will give you time for a morning stroll around the Royal Botanic Gar- den, followed by a trip to the enigmatic and beautiful Rosslyn Chapel. Relax with a visit to the seaside village of Cramond – bring along binoculars (for birdwatching and yacht-spotting) and a book (to read in the sun). Dinner at the Cafe Royal Oyster Bar could be before or after your sunset walk to the summit of Calton Hill. On day four head out to the pretty harbour village of Queensferry, nestled beneath the Forth Bridges, and take a cruise to Inchcolm Island.

History her son James VI succeeded to the Eng- Edinburgh owes its existence to the Castle lish throne in 1603 he moved his court to Rock, the glacier-worn stump of a long- London. The Act of Union in 1707 further extinct volcano that provided a near- reduced Edinburgh’s importance, but its perfect defensive position guarding the cultural and intellectual life fl ourished. coastal route from northeast England into In the second half of the 18th century a central Scotland. planned new town was created across the Back in the 7th century the Castle Rock valley to the north of the Old Town. Dur- was called Dun Eiden (meaning ‘Fort on ing the Scottish Enlightenment (roughly the Hill Slope’). When it was captured by 1740–1830), Edinburgh became known as invaders from the kingdom of Northumbria ‘a hotbed of genius’, inhabited by leading in northeast England in 638, they took the scientists and philosophers such as David existing Gaelic name ‘Eiden’ and tacked it Hume and Adam Smith. onto their own Old English word for fort, In the 19th century the population qua- ‘burh’, to create the name Edinburgh. drupled to 400,000, not much less than to- Originally a purely defensive site, Edin- day’s, and the Old Town’s tenements were burgh began to expand in the 12th century taken over by refugees from the Irish fam- when King David I held court at the castle ines. A new ring of crescents and circuses and founded the abbey at Holyrood. The was built to the north of New Town, and royal court came to prefer Edinburgh to grey Victorian terraces spread south of the Dunfermline and, as parliament followed Old Town. the king, Edinburgh became Scotland’s In the 1920s the city’s borders expanded capital. The city’s fi rst eff ective town wall again to encompass Leith in the north, Cra- was constructed around 1450, enclosing mond in the west and the Pentland Hills the Old Town as far east as Netherbow and in the south. Following WWII the city’s south to the Grassmarket. This overcrowd- cultural life blossomed, stimulated by the ed area – by then the most populous town Edinburgh International Festival and its in Scotland – became a medieval Manhat- fellow traveller the Fringe, both held for the tan, forcing its densely packed inhabitants fi rst time in 1947 and now recognised as to build upwards instead of outwards, cre- world-class arts festivals. ating tenements fi ve and six storeys high. Edinburgh entered a new era follow- The capital played an important role ing the 1997 referendum vote in favour of in the Reformation (1560–1690), led by a devolved Scottish parliament, which fi rst the Calvinist fi rebrand John Knox. Mary, convened in July 1999. The parliament is Queen of Scots held court in the Palace of housed in a controversial new building at Holyroodhouse for six brief years, but when the foot of the Royal Mile, where the 2007

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