DOCSLIB.ORG

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Natural Resource Program Center Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park Geologic Resources Inventory Report Natural Resource Report NPS/NRPC/GRD/NRR—2011/384 ON THE COVER Kaloko Fishpond is a loko kuapa (rockwall fishpond) constructed by interlocking large and small rocks across a natural embayment along the Kona coast. This ingenious technology allowed the ancient Hawaiians to raise and harvest large amounts of fish to feed the population that existed in the area. THIS PAGE A heiau (temple) in the foreground overlooks the ‘Ai‘ōpio fishtrap at Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park. The flank of Hualālai volcano—source of the volcanic deposits within the park—looms over the horizon. National Park Service photographs courtesy Jon Jokiel (Kaloko- Honokōhau National Historical Park). Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park Geologic Resources Inventory Report Natural Resource Report NPS/NRPC/GRD/NRR—2011/384 National Park Service Geologic Resources Division PO Box 25287 Denver, CO 80225 April 2011 U.S. Department of the Interior National Park Service Natural Resource Program Center Fort Collins, Colorado The National Park Service, Natural Resource Program Center publishes a range of reports that address natural resource topics of interest and applicability to a broad audience in the National Park Service and others in natural resource management, including scientists, conservation and environmental constituencies, and the public. The Natural Resource Report Series is used to disseminate high-priority, current natural resource management information with managerial application. The series targets a general, diverse audience, and may contain NPS policy considerations or address sensitive issues of management applicability. All manuscripts in the series receive the appropriate level of peer review to ensure that the information is scientifically credible, technically accurate, appropriately written for the intended audience, and designed and published in a professional manner. This report received informal peer review by subject-matter experts who were not directly involved in the collection, analysis, or reporting of the data. Views, statements, findings, conclusions, recommendations, and data in this report do not necessarily reflect views and policies of the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Mention of trade names or commercial products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for use by the U.S. Government. Printed copies of this report are produced in a limited quantity and they are only available as long as the supply lasts. This report is available from the Geologic Resources Inventory website (http://www.nature.nps.gov/geology/inventory/ gre_publications.cfm) and the Natural Resource Publications Management website (http://www.nature.nps.gov/publications/nrpm/). Please cite this publication as: Thornberry-Ehrlich, T. 2011. Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park: geologic resources inventory report. Natural Resource Report NPS/NRPC/GRD/NRR— 2011/384. National Park Service, Ft. Collins, Colorado. NPS 466/107491, April 2011 ii NPS Geologic Resources Division Contents List of Figures ................................................................................................................ iv Executive Summary ....................................................................................................... v Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................... vi Credits ....................................................................................................................................................................... vi Introduction ................................................................................................................... 1 Purpose of the Geologic Resources Inventory ......................................................................................................... 1 Park Setting ............................................................................................................................................................... 1 Geologic Issues .............................................................................................................. 7 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................................... 7 Fishpond Stability and Shoreline Change ................................................................................................................ 7 Groundwater Recharge and Discharge .................................................................................................................... 8 Anchialine Ponds ..................................................................................................................................................... 10 Coral Reef Changes ................................................................................................................................................. 10 Geologic Hazards .................................................................................................................................................... 12 Geologic Features and Processes ................................................................................ 23 Volcanic Features and Processes ............................................................................................................................. 23 Coastal Landforms ................................................................................................................................................... 23 Submarine Habitats ................................................................................................................................................. 24 Geology and Cultural Resources ............................................................................................................................. 24 Geologic History .......................................................................................................... 29 Pre-Quaternary History of the Pacific Basin (after Condie and Sloan 1998) ........................................................ 29 Evolution of the Hawaiian-Emperor Seamount Chain .......................................................................................... 29 Overview of Geologic Data ......................................................................................... 39 Geologic Maps ......................................................................................................................................................... 39 Source Maps ............................................................................................................................................................ 39 Geologic GIS Data ................................................................................................................................................... 39 Geology data layers in the Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park GIS data ............................................. 40 Overview Graphic of Digital Geologic Data........................................................................................................... 40 Map Unit Properties Table and Correlation Table ................................................................................................ 40 Use Constraints ........................................................................................................................................................ 40 Overview Graphic of Digital Geologic Data ............................................................... 41 Map Unit Properties Table .......................................................................................... 43 Map Unit Correlation Table ........................................................................................ 46 Glossary ........................................................................................................................ 47 Literature Cited ............................................................................................................ 51 Additional References ................................................................................................. 56 Attachment 1: Geologic Resources Inventory Products CD KAHO Geologic Resources Inventory Report iii List of Figures Figure 1. Shaded relief map of the Island of Hawai‘i. ................................................................................................ 3 Figure 2. Map of Kaloko-Honokōhau NHP and immediate surroundings ................................................................. 4 Figure 3. Map of Kaloko-Honokōhau NHP showing flows of three distinct ages ..................................................... 5 Figure 4. Aerial view of ‘Aimakapā fishpond within Kaloko-Honokōhau NHP ........................................................ 6 Figure 5. Diagrammatic model of precipitation-fueled submarine groundwater discharge ................................. 16 Figure 6. Schematic cross section of the groundwater flow system in Kaloko-Honokōhau NHP........................... 16 Figure 7. Bathymetry of the Hawaiian Islands .......................................................................................................... 17 Figure 8. Photograph of walls of an ancient Hawaiian
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Ocean Trench
    R E S O U R C E L I B R A R Y E N C Y C L O P E D I C E N T RY Ocean trench Ocean trenches are long, narrow depressions on the seafloor. These chasms are the deepest parts of the ocean—and some of the deepest natural spots on Earth. G R A D E S 5 - 12+ S U B J E C T S Earth Science, Geology, Geography, Physical Geography C O N T E N T S 11 Images, 1 Video, 2 Links For the complete encyclopedic entry with media resources, visit: http://www.nationalgeographic.org/encyclopedia/ocean-trench/ Ocean trenches are long, narrow depressions on the seafloor. These chasms are the deepest parts of the ocean—and some of the deepest natural spots on Earth. Ocean trenches are found in every ocean basin on the planet, although the deepest ocean trenches ring the Pacific as part of the so-called “Ring of Fire” that also includes active volcanoes and earthquake zones. Ocean trenches are a result of tectonic activity, which describes the movement of the Earth’s lithosphere. In particular, ocean trenches are a feature of convergent plate boundaries, where two or more tectonic plates meet. At many convergent plate boundaries, dense lithosphere melts or slides beneath less-dense lithosphere in a process called subduction, creating a trench. Ocean trenches occupy the deepest layer of the ocean, the hadalpelagic zone. The intense pressure, lack of sunlight, and frigid temperatures of the hadalpelagic zone make ocean trenches some of the most unique habitats on Earth.
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard (2012)
    FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard Marine and Coastal Spatial Data Subcommittee Federal Geographic Data Committee June, 2012 Federal Geographic Data Committee FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard, June 2012 ______________________________________________________________________________________ CONTENTS PAGE 1. Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Objectives ................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 Need ......................................................................................................................... 2 1.3 Scope ........................................................................................................................ 2 1.4 Application ............................................................................................................... 3 1.5 Relationship to Previous FGDC Standards .............................................................. 4 1.6 Development Procedures ......................................................................................... 5 1.7 Guiding Principles ................................................................................................... 7 1.7.1 Build a Scientifically Sound Ecological Classification .................................... 7 1.7.2 Meet the Needs of a Wide Range of Users ......................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Source to Surface Model of Monogenetic Volcanism: a Critical Review
    Downloaded from http://sp.lyellcollection.org/ by guest on September 28, 2021 Source to surface model of monogenetic volcanism: a critical review I. E. M. SMITH1 &K.NE´ METH2* 1School of Environment, University of Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand 2Volcanic Risk Solutions, Massey University, Palmerston North 4442, New Zealand *Correspondence: [email protected] Abstract: Small-scale volcanic systems are the most widespread type of volcanism on Earth and occur in all of the main tectonic settings. Most commonly, these systems erupt basaltic magmas within a wide compositional range from strongly silica undersaturated to saturated and oversatu- rated; less commonly, the spectrum includes more siliceous compositions. Small-scale volcanic systems are commonly monogenetic in the sense that they are represented at the Earth’s surface by fields of small volcanoes, each the product of a temporally restricted eruption of a composition- ally distinct batch of magma, and this is in contrast to polygenetic systems characterized by rela- tively large edifices built by multiple eruptions over longer periods of time involving magmas with diverse origins. Eruption styles of small-scale volcanoes range from pyroclastic to effusive, and are strongly controlled by the relative influence of the characteristics of the magmatic system and the surface environment. Gold Open Access: This article is published under the terms of the CC-BY 3.0 license. Small-scale basaltic magmatic systems characteris- hazards associated with eruptions, and this is tically occur at the Earth’s surface as fields of small particularly true where volcanic fields are in close monogenetic volcanoes. These volcanoes are the proximity to population centres.
    [Show full text]
  • 31 a Preliminary Study Of
    31 A PRELIMINARY STUDY OF THE: TERTIARY VOLCANIC AND SEDIMENTARY ROCKS, GÜMELE, ESKİŞEHİR Eskişehir, Gümele Çevresindeki Tersiyer Volkanik ve Sedimanter Kayaçlarda Bir Ön Çalışma Taylan Lünel Middle East Technical University, Department of Geological Engineering Ankara ÖZ. — Seyitgazi-Eskişehir antiklinoriumu'nun çok fazla deforme olmuş ve metamorfizmaya uğramış kayaçlarının kuzey-kuzeybatısında bulunan sedimanter ve volkanik kayaçlar incelenmiştir. Karasal ve gölsel fasiyesde meydana gelen Tersi- yer sedimanter kayaçlar Güney Eskişehir küvetinde olunmuşlardır. Karasal fasiye- si meydana getiren kayaç birimlerini kaba kumtaşları, kumtaşları, bitki kalıntıları ihtiva eden kil ve marnlar ve serpantinit blokları taşıyan bazal konglomerası teşkil etmektedir. Gölsel fasiyes ise genellikle killi ve tüflü kalkerler, kalkerler, marnlar, kon- glomeralar ve tüflerden meydana gelmiştir. Küvetteki en eski sedimanlar ve piroklas- tikler Alt Miosen'de oluşmuşlardır. Yataya yakın konumlanmış bazik-intermediyar lav akıntıları Pliosen yaşlı olup Altüst Neojen sedimantasyon kesikliğinde meyda- na gelmiştir. Üst Neojen sedimanter kayaçları intermediyar-basaltik volkaniklerin üzerinde ince bandlar şeklinde bulunurlar. Bu birim marn ve kalkerlerden meyda- na gelmiştir. Alt Miosen’de asid volkanik faaliyetler neticesinde meydana gelen sil- lar (unweldd tuffs) oligomikt konglomeralardan evvel teşekkül etmiştir. Bu volkanik aktitivite muhtemelen kesikli ve kısıtlı olarak devam etmiş ve tüflü kalkerleri mey- dana getirmiştir. Pliosen yaşlı bazik-intermediyar
    [Show full text]
  • THE HAWAIIAN-EMPEROR VOLCANIC CHAIN Part I Geologic Evolution
    VOLCANISM IN HAWAII Chapter 1 - .-............,. THE HAWAIIAN-EMPEROR VOLCANIC CHAIN Part I Geologic Evolution By David A. Clague and G. Brent Dalrymple ABSTRACT chain, the near-fixity of the hot spot, the chemistry and timing of The Hawaiian-Emperor volcanic chain stretches nearly the eruptions from individual volcanoes, and the detailed geom­ 6,000 km across the North Pacific Ocean and consists of at least etry of volcanism. None of the geophysical hypotheses pro­ t 07 individual volcanoes with a total volume of about 1 million posed to date are fully satisfactory. However, the existence of km3• The chain is age progressive with still-active volcanoes at the Hawaiian ewell suggests that hot spots are indeed hot. In the southeast end and 80-75-Ma volcanoes at the northwest addition, both geophysical and geochemical hypotheses suggest end. The bend between the Hawaiian and .Emperor Chains that primitive undegassed mantle material ascends beneath reflects a major change in Pacific plate motion at 43.1 ± 1.4 Ma Hawaii. Petrologic models suggest that this primitive material and probably was caused by collision of the Indian subcontinent reacts with the ocean lithosphere to produce the compositional into Eurasia and the resulting reorganization of oceanic spread­ range of Hawaiian lava. ing centers and initiation of subduction zones in the western Pacific. The volcanoes of the chain were erupted onto the floor of the Pacific Ocean without regard for the age or preexisting INTRODUCTION structure of the ocean crust. Hawaiian volcanoes erupt lava of distinct chemical com­ The Hawaiian Islands; the seamounts, hanks, and islands of positions during four major stages in their evolution and the Hawaiian Ridge; and the chain of Emperor Seamounts form an growth.
    [Show full text]
  • 1 Appendix 3. Modes of Samples in the San Francisco Mountain
    Appendix 3. Modes of Samples in the San Francisco Mountain Volcanic System, and Selected Basalts from the Eastern San Francisco Volcanic Field. Minerals in Volume Percent. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Sample 3823A 2A06 2812A 2031A 2031.B 3732J DC04B Map Name basalt basalt basalt basalt basalt andesite andesite TAS Name basalt basalt basalt basalt basalt mugearite mugearite Field flow flow flow flow flow flow flow SiO2 48.7 48.9 49.7 50.4 51.0 52.2 53.0 Plagioclase 14.6, An69 8.3, An70 25.6,An67 25.5,An71 20.2,An74 29, An64 32.0,An62 Olivine 11.2, Fo83 10.9,Fo84 8.1, Fo73 7.0, Fo77 3.9, Fo76 3, Fo75 6.6, Fo75 Clinopyroxene 4.3 4.3 4.6 1.8 1.3 0 trace Opaque Oxide 4.1 0.2 0.5 1.6 0.3 1 2.4 Matrix 65.8 76.3 61.2 64.1 74.4 67 59.0 Points 1165 1173 1504 1464 1347 827 1549 Matrix intergran- inter- intergran- intergran- inter- microcrys- inter- Texture ular sertal ular ular sertal talline sertal MF1959 Symbol Qa1 Qa1 I-1663 Symbol Qao Qao 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Sample 3732K 3732Z 3732Y 2705D 3831A 3729Q 3707 Map Name andesite andesite andesite andesite andesite andesite andesite TAS Name mugearite mugearite mugearite mugearite mugearite mugearite mugearite Field flow flow dike flow flow flow flow SiO2 53.4 53.7 53.8 55.2 55.3 56.0 56.6 Plagioclase 24.8,An64 15.3,An61 30.2,An61 42.1,An52 27.0,An62 29.8,An57 41.2,An57 Olivine 2.8, Fo69 3.1, Fo65 4.1 5.6 4.3, Fo62 3.7 Fo57 2.5, Fo58 Clinopyroxene 0.2 0.5 1.5 2.1 0.8 3.0 1.1 Orthopyroxene - - 0.5 - - 0.2 - Opaque Oxide 0.3 0.8 3.0 1.0 0.6 2.1 1.4 Matrix 71.8 80.3 60.7 49.2 67.2 61.1 53.8 Points 1196 1785 854 1844 1428 1029 1540 Matrix hyalo- inter- inter- hyalo- hyalo- hyalo- micro- Texture pilitic granular sertal ophitic pilitic ophitic crystalline MF1959 Symbol Qa1 Qa1 Qai Qa1 Qa2 Qa2 Qa2 I-1663 Symbol Qao Qao Qai Qao Qay Qay Qay Notes: 1.
    [Show full text]
  • The Paleo Dutton Plateau: a Geomorphologic Conundrum
    THE PALEO DUTTON PLATEAU: A GEOMORPHOLOGIC CONUNDRUM N. Christian Smoot - Sr. Fellow ([email protected]) Geoplasma Research Institute (GRI) Hoschton, Georgia 30548 USA ABSTRACT Guyots on the Dutton Ridge are used to explain the pre-existence of a plateau in the NW Pacific region. The idea was basically proposed in a 1983 paper but was not proven until the discovery of the basin-wide N-S fracture zone/mega-trends and the orthogonal intersections in the 1990s. The proposal is based on the multibeam sonar-based morphology itself and the intersections of both E-W Mendocino/Surveyor megatrends and N-S Udintsev/Kashima megatrends converging there. Keywords: Multibeam Bathymetry, Fracture Zones, Megatrend Figure 1. First full representation of the Dutton Ridge [7]. Intersections, Guyots The feature was contoured at 200 fm using ship-of-opportunity single-beam data. Most of the features were recognizable in the proper locations. All in all, this was not a bad contouring job 1. INTRODUCTION considering the quality and quantity of the information available at that time. This locator is contoured from that at 500 fm with Fully accurate bathymetric data for eight guyots from the Dutton the 3000 fm isobath on the upper right and at the trenches. Ridge are based on U.S. Naval Oceanographic Office (NAVOCEANO) swath mapping by the SASS multi-beam sonar During the 1970s and 80s NAVOCEANO did a total-coverage, system in the 1970s [1]. The Dutton Ridge is a major east-west swath mapped SASS survey by the USNS DUTTON (T-AGS- 275 nautical mile-long (510 km) trending feature that intersects 22).
    [Show full text]
  • 05. Dida Kusnida.Cdr
    Geo-Science J.G.S.M. Vol. 17 No. 2 Mei 2016 hal. 99 - 106 Depositional Modification in Seram Trough, Eastern Indonesia Modifikasi Pengendapan di Palung Seram, Indonesia Timur Dida Kusnida, Tommy Naibaho, and Yulinar Firdaus Marine Geological Institute of Indonesia, Jl. Dr. Djundjunan 236, Bandung-40174 [email protected] Naskah diterima : 1 Maret 2016, Revisi terakhir : 3 Mei 2016, Disetujui : 4 Mei 2016 Abstract - Seismic reflection profiles considered to Abstrak - Penampang rekaman seismik yang dianggap represent the morphotectonics of the study area and mewakili morfotektonik daerah studi dan diverifikasi verified by surficial sedimentary data presented in this dengan data sedimen permukaan yang disajikan dalam paper directed to understand the sedimentary depositional tulisan ini diarahkan untuk memahami dinamika dynamics. Seismic data interpretation results show the pengendapan sedimen. Hasil penafsiran data seismik gradation and sediment facies cycles in accordance with menunjukan gradasi dan siklus fasies sedimen sesuai the episode of tectonic activities, which is characterized by dengan episod aktivitas tektonik yang dicirikan oleh the avalanche of the Seram Trough base-of slopes longsoran material lereng Palung Seram. Data seismik materials. Seismic data reveal more than 1250 meters menunjukan lebih dari 1250 meter sedimen secara akustik acoustically chaotic to laminated, indicate fine-grained kaotik hingga berlapis, mencirikan sedimen berbutir sediments between slumps at its base of slope and fine halus antara slam pada lereng bagian bawah dan sedimen marine sediments at the trough floor. Thus, it suggests that marin halus pada lantai palung. Dengan demikian, diduga the Seram Trough is in the process of differential vertical bahwa Palung Seram berada dalam proses pergerakan movement causing depositional modification due to the vertikal diferensial yang menyebabkan terjadinya accretionary prism growths.
    [Show full text]
  • Direct Derivation of Benmoreite to Phonolite
    EXPERIMENTAL DERIVATION OF NEPHELINE SYENITE AND PHONOLITE LIQUIDS BY PARTIAL MELTING OF UPPER MANTLE PERIDOTITES Didier LAPORTE, Sarah LAMBART, Pierre SCHIANO, and Luisa OTTOLINI SUPPLEMENTARY MATERIAL 1. Experimental and analytical techniques 1.1 Starting materials. The starting material used to prepare our two fertile mantle compositions was a fresh spinel lherzolite xenolith (Bri3) from Mont Briançon volcano, French Massif Central. Because a fine grain size is critical to attain chemical equilibrium, lherzolite Bri3 was first pulverized in a micronizing mill for 30 min to reduce its grain size to 2-4 µm. The powder was then fired 5 hours at 900°C in a CO2/H2 atmosphere with gas flow rates adjusted to yield an oxygen fugacity between the magnetite-wüstite and the iron-wüstite -15.91 buffers (fO2 = 10 bar). As Bri3 contains only 100 ppm K2O, small amounts of synthetic basalt B2 were added to Bri3 to prepare the fertile mantle compositions MBK (410 ppm K2O) and MBK+ (930 ppm K2O; compositions Bri3, B2, MBK and MBK+ are given in Table 1). Mixtures of Bri3 and B2 were homogenized by grinding in an agate mortar for one hour. The starting material for reversal experiments MBK+13 and MBK+14 was a mixture of 80.16 % MBK+ and 19.84 % phonolite gel +6 (Table 1). Phonolite gel +6 was prepared using the gel method (Luth and Ingamells, 1965), and then fired at the same T and fO2 as lherzolite Bri3. Gel +6 matches well the target composition (that is, the glass in partial melting experiment MBK+6), except that it is ≈ 10 % richer in Na2O.
    [Show full text]
  • Geologic Map of the State of Hawai 'I
    Geologic Map of the State of Hawai‘i By David R. Sherrod, John M. Sinton, Sarah E. Watkins, and Kelly M. Brunt Open-File Report 2007–1089 U.S. Department of the Interior U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Department of the Interior DIRK KEMPTHORNE, Secretary U.S. Geological Survey Mark D. Myers, Director U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia 2007 For product and ordering information: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov/pubprod Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS For more information on the USGS—the Federal source for science about the Earth, its natural and living resources, natural hazards, and the environment: World Wide Web: http://www.usgs.gov Telephone: 1-888-ASK-USGS Suggested citation: Sherrod, D.R., Sinton, J.M., Watkins, S.E., and Brunt, K.M., 2007, Geologic Map of the State of Hawai`i: U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2007-1089, 83 p., 8 plates, scales 1:100,000 and 1:250,000, with GIS database Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Although this report is in the public domain, permission must be secured from the individual copyright owners to reproduce any copyrighted material contained within this report. ii Geologic Map of the State of Hawai‘i By David R. Sherrod, John M. Sinton, Sarah E. Watkins, and Kelly M. Brunt About this map Sources of mapping, methods of This geologic map and its digital databases present compilation, origin of stratigraphic the geology of the eight major islands of the State of names, and divisions of the geologic Hawai‘i.
    [Show full text]
  • Context-Aware Web-Mining Engine
    Context Aware Web-mining Engine Christopher Goh Zhen Fung Koay Tze Min River Valley High School Raffles Institution Singapore Singapore [email protected] [email protected] Abstract—The context of a user’s query is often lost when using extracted to download more layers of web documents. These search engines such as Google, as they limit the number of search documents are ranked according to their similarity to the query, terms that can be input. Therefore, they may not return the most using natural language processing with machine learning relevant or desired results often. This project developed a context- techniques, to return search results of higher relevancy. aware web mining engine (CAWE), which allows the user to use the entire content of multiple documents as the query, to search and rank We compared the performance of CAWE with Google, the web documents by their similarity to it. CAWE combines the search most widely used search engine in the world, holding 70.69% results from Google, Yahoo and Bing search engines, and further of the search engine market share as of November 2015 [1]. crawls the links found in the downloaded web documents. The web Most popular search engines (Bing, DuckDuckGo, Baidu, documents are then ranked according to their content’s relevance to Yahoo, etc.) make use of similar PageRank techniques like the query documents. This ability for document matching is enabled Google, with variants of semantic matching [2]. by natural language processing techniques. Experiments showed that CAWE performed better than Google in finding more relevant web B. Drawbacks of Current Popular Search Engines documents.
    [Show full text]
  • T Delft Hydraulic and Offshore Engineering Division Delft University of Technology Ctwa43oo Coastal Engineering Volume I
    CTwa4300 Coastal Engineering Volume Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Subfaculty of Civil Engineering T Delft Hydraulic and Offshore Engineering Division Delft University of Technology cTwa43oo Coastal Engineering Volume I Prof.ir. K. d'Angremond Ir. C.M.G. Somers 310222 cTwa43oo Coastal Engineering Volume I Prof.ir. K. d'Angremond Ir. C.M.G. Somers 310222 Contents List of Figxires List of Tables List of Symbols Preface 2 1 Introduction 3 1.1 The coast 3 1.2 Coastal engineering 4 1.3 Structure of these lecture notes 5 2 The natural subsystem 6 2.1 Introduction 6 2.1.1 Dynamics of a coast 6 2.1.2 Genesis of the universe, earth, ocean, and atmosphere 7 2.1.3 Sea level change 12 2.2 Geology 13 2.2.1 Geologic time and definitions 13 2.2.2 Plate tectonics: the changing map of the earth 14 2.2.3 Tectonic classification of coasts 18 2.3 Climatology 23 2.3.1 Introduction 23 2.3.2 Meteorological system 23 2.3.3 From meteorology to climatology 24 2.3.4 The hydrological cycle 25 2.3.5 Solar radiation and temperature distributions 27 2.3.6 Atmospheric circulation and wind 31 2.4 Oceanography 35 2.4.1 Introduction 35 2.4.2 Variable density 36 2.4.3 Geostrophic currents 38 2.4.4 The tide 40 2.4.5 Seiches 46 2.4.6 Short waves 47 2.4.7 Wind wave statistics 56 2.4.8 Storm surges 69 2.4.9 Tsunamis 60 2.5 Morphology 62 2.5.1 Introduction 62 2.5.2 Surf zone processes 63 2.5.3 Sediment transport 64 2.5.4 Coastline changes 68 3 Coastal formations 70 3.1 Introduction 70 3.2 Transgressive coasts 73 3.2.1 Definition 73 3.2.2 Estuaries 73 3.2.3 Tidal
    [Show full text]