sign in sign up
<<
Home , Blood as food, Fig roll, Halva, Khwarazmian Empire, Laghman (food), Manti (food)

Index Index 325 Index

Aaruul, see Qrut Ammianus Marcellinus 99-100, 129 Abū Hāmid 114 On Hun 99-100 Acorns, as Korean 283 Amu Darya 9, 28, 34 Afghan language 73 Amur-Ussuri 171 1, 7, 9, 28, 34, 40, 73, 75, 90, 175- -style art, spread of 80 176, 177, 179, 204, 206-219 Animal life, overview 21-29 207-208 , domestication 63, 65 Dairy products 215 Effects of domestication 63 Drinks 216 History of domestication in 63 Festivals 207 Self-taming 65 First agriculture 75 104 Flavorings 215-216 An Lushan 安祿山 Rebellion 105 Food influences 219 18, 32, 57, 60, 61, 94, 112, 148, 174, 181, Food words 215 205, 236, 238 Fowl 215 32, 57, 94, 106, 125, 174, 205, 235- 214-215 236, 238 Markets 218 Aqsakal 126 stewed with fruit 212-213 Aquaculture 95 208 9, 18, 27-29, 35 209 Arabian 137 Sweets 216 Arabs 88, 104 Types of pilau 209-210 Conquest of western 88, Weddings 217-218 104 Agriculture, advance of, spread into Central Araq (‘araq) 51, 198. See also Arkhi Asia 53-55, 74-75 Area of Central Asian nations 31 Ai Khanum 90 Aristotle 123 Al-Bīrūnī (973-1048), 48, 116, 122 Arkhi 51, 153-154, 285. See also Araq Al-Khwārizmī 116 72 Alcohol 3, 199 Arseniev, V. K. 175 Alcoholic drinks 191, 258-261, 284 On Tungus 175 Korean 284 Ash 193 Mongolian 258-261 208 Ale 57, 151 Āthār va Aḥyā’ 144 Millet ale 151 Avars (Rouran 柔然 ) 44-5 Rice ale (terracina, “rice wine”) 151 , see Ibn Sīnā 90, 116-117 food 250-254 Alfalfa 42, 57, 88, 98 Food proverbs 252 Allsen, Thomas 22, 143 Spices and flavorings 251 Almaty 32, 60 Sweets 253-254 57, 106, 125, 148, 238, 265 Azeri, language 251 In Ibn Sīnā’s Canon 125 Wild , in 265 161 Altai Mountains 7, 8, 12, 59, 71 Bactria 90-91 Altaic languages 70 184-185

© Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden,Paul D. 2020 | doi:10.1163/9789004432109_011Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 326 Index

Baghdad, Mongol conquest of 132 191, 270. See also “Booze” 231 Bread 56, 119, 182-184, 206-208, 263, 279 Bal 151 In Afghanistan 206-208 Balancing diet 119 In humoral medicine 119 Balpo 193 In Mongolia 263 Bamboo 125 Sacredness 183 Bamiyan 104 Britain 29 “Barbarian nomad,” myth of 44 British 175 Barberries, in 220 Influence on food 205 Barfield, Thomas 38 Bronze Age 52, 76, 81 31, 49, 57, 59, 75, 77, 81, 112, 120, 148, Buckwheat 94, 283 173, 174, 178, 181, 235, 279, 283 Buddhism 125 , in humoral medicine 120 Buddhist travelers to 111 In Afghanistan bread 206 3, 73, 162, 204, 221 Spread into Central Asia 75 Burani, dishes 212 Spread into China 77 Buran, Princess 212 Barley 188 Burma 133 Barley Soup 252 Butter 148, 197 Bashkirs 173 Butter-making 197 Batu 131-132 Buudz 263 Ba’urchi 143 Byzantine 45, 88 Baysursak 246-248 curd (doufu 豆腐) 48 Ca’adai Qanate 134 174, 176, 180, 284 181 Broad 105 Chinese cabbage 284 Fava 235 Camels, Bactrian 41, 48, 66, 69, 78, 173, 192, Green (fresh) 180 264, 269 Hyacinth 174 In early 新疆 78 In 284 Camels, dromedary 69 Small dry green 174. See also Mung Caracomos 151 beans Caraway, black 62 Beansprouts 284 Caravan trade 2 174 49, 60, 125, 181, 202 Beijing 北京 130, 134 Large 202 Founded by the 130 49, 174, 181, 211, 280 Bencao Gangmu 本草綱目 (Chinese Varieties 211 herbal) 123 Caspian Sea 9, 52 Birch 112 Castoreum 146 Birds, hunting 25-26 Cassia 95, 148 Black Death 25 Cats 280 And rodents 25 41-42, 49, 65, 69, 78, 173, 181, 192, 264, Black-eyed 223 268, 280, 285 Black gram 125 Beef in 285 Black kumiss 149 In early Xinjiang 78 , as food 195 Central Asia 2, 4, 22, 38, 74, 39-40, 82-84, Bolad 143-144 88-89, 121, 126, 162, 173-179, “Booze,” 191 Center of Galenic Medicine 121 Botai Culture, 76 Food 2

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 327

Food un-Sinicized 178 In 133 Foodways and religion 82 Merged into Central Asia 92 Globalization 178-179 Military technology 79 Governance 126 Mongol Yuan 元 Dynasty 86 Herding 38 Near Eastern Spices 280 83-84 New World crops 281 New World 176-177 Western grains other than wheat 379 19th and 20th century food 174 Qijia 齊家 Culture 77 Nomads 39-40 Shiba 寺洼 Culture 77 Post-Mongol governance 173 Stimulus diffusion 54 “Race,” 74 Tombs 80 Recent history 162, 177-178 “Western Regions,” 86 Slaving 88-89 Western 280 Writings on hunting 22 Writing 78 Chaikhana () 222 Chinese chives ( chives) 95, 96, 200, Champa 133 202, 231 長安 Chang’an 6 Chinese foods of Central Asian background Ethnic communities 6 271-281 長春 Chang Chun 148 In Ming 明 Dynasty 271-279 Chariots, origin and spread to China 76, 77 In modern times 279-281 Charpentier, C. J. 218 70, 78-79 Chen, Qiang 170 Early Indo-European loan words 78-79 Cherry Concentrate 251 Chinese pulsing 148 Cherries 32, 174, 238 Chocolate 281 94, 283 Chopsticks 97 69, 196 Chuqmin 207-208 In Afghanistan 215 Cinggis-qan 35, 47, 87, 108, 110, 115, 126-129 54-56, 235 His starvation food in childhood 127-128 49, 162, 174, 176, 202, 205, 236, 281, 284 49, 62, 125, 181, 201 China 1, 12, 37, 47-48, 54-56, 77-80, 86-88, Citrus fruit, from China 107-108 92, 95, 102, 107, 132-136, 178-179, 280-281, Clavijo, Ruy Gonzoles de 141 379 Climate 12-13, 18-20 And Central Asia 77 Animals from the West 280 History 12-13 Archery 79 62, 125, 181 Early contacts 79 125 Early dynasties 77, 87-88 Collective management 40 Economic center of world 134 Confucianism 77 Food flows 95 , in Korea 283 Foods coming to China with Eurasian Cooking utensils 202-203 ­connections 107, 379 Copper smelting 75 Gansu 甘肅 corridor 77 Core and periphery 87 Greek influences 92 49, 57, 62, 104, 105, 181, 201, 280 Han 漢 Dynasty 88 Cosmas Indicopleustes 110-111 and Central Asia 88 Cotton 28, 31, 62, 88, 125, 224 Herbal literature 102 Cowpeas 107 History of agriculture 54, 56 49, 105, 181, 200 Horse 88 49, 57, 62, 104, 106, 181, 201, 280

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 328 Index

Daidu 大都 134 Dzungar 29 Dairy foods 187, 197-198, 215, 222, 236, 240- Dzungaria 8 241, 258-260 In Afghanistan 215 Eastern Iran, food 219 In 240-241 Eggplant 49, 148, 212 In Mongolia 258-260 Embelia 125 In 222 Enin 186 Use by mountain Tajiks 236 Eurasian Heartland 1, 7 Dairying, appearance of 66 Eurasian Heartland, agriculture 30-32, 38 Dali 大理 Kingdom 132 And environment 30-31 Dangerous animals, tabuing of names 22 And livestock 38 Daoism 77 Eurasian Heartland, and conflict 47 language 73 Eurasian Heartland, animals 21 Dastarkhan 239 Eurasian Heartland, birds 24-26 Dates 106, 115, 220 Eurasian Heartland, bread 182-184 In Iran 220 Nan 182-183 Deer Stone-Khirigsuur complex 66 Eurasian Heartland, cities 37 Dersu the Hunter 175 Urban sprawl 37 Deodar 125 Eurasian Heartland, climate 19-20 Descent groups and resources 127 Climate change 12-13 Dietary Therapy, Galenic 118-120 Eurasian Heartland, contemporary food- 202 ways 180-182 Dioscorides, Pedanios 117, 120, 124 Eurasian Heartland, cooking utensils 202 Distillation 51, 164-169, 280, 285-286 Eurasian Heartland, crossroads 48 Gaoliang 高粱 280 Eurasian Heartland, desert woodlands 15 In Korea 285-286 Eurasian Heartland, ecological system 51 liquor 51 Eurasian Heartland, environmental problems Dock (herb) 202 26-27 Dogs, Central Asian breeds 54, 63-64, 285 And religion 26-27 As food, Korea 285 Eurasian Heartland, foods 32, 49-51, 190-192, Domestication of the dog 54, 63 197-203 Domestication 53-55 Dairy foods 197-198 Defined 54 Drinks 198 In prehistory 53 Grain foods 190-192 Dong’an 233, 257 Overall views of 49-51 Donkeys 41-42, 173 Sour preferred 202 215 Spicing 202-203 Dormice, as food 150 Sweet fruits and berries preferred 200- Dragon fruit 281 201 Duck (domestic) 95 Sweets 200 95, 181, 184-190, 263, 270, 279, 285 Vegetables 199-200 In Korea 285 Eurasian Heartland, foodways, sources of In Mongolia 263 change 204-205 Kalmyk 270 Eurasian Heartland, grasslands 37 Dungan, see Dong’an Eurasian Heartland, herding 38-39, 46 敦煌 oasis 6, 93 Types 46 Dupree, Louis 40, 206-219 Eurasian Heartland, history before the Dūqī 190 ­Mongols 86

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 329

Eurasian Heartland, hunting 21-24 Eurasian Heartland, vegetation 13 Eurasian Heartland, irrigation 32 Eurasian Heartland, languages 70-73 Falck, Johan Peter 173 Chinese 72 On Central Asian foods and foodways Dari 73 173 Farsi 72 Falconry 21-22, 173 Ket 71 Farsi language 72, 93, 204, 212 Russian 73 Farsi food words in Central Asia 93, 204 Tajik 73 In Afghanistan 212 Tibetan 71 Faxian 法顯, monk 111 Tokharian 71 Feasting 55 Turkic 72 Feijoa 254 鮮卑 Xianbei 70 Fennel 106, 280 匈奴 Xiongnu 70 Fenugreek 104 Eurasian Heartland, linguistic Stalinism 73 Fermented mares’ milk, see Kumiz Eurasian Heartland, linking area 48 Ferghana, 187 Eurasian Heartland, little Chinese influence Ferns, in Korean food 284 96 Fertile Crescent 57 Eurasian Heartland, major crops, animals, Festival foods 217, 237 advance of 54 In Afghanistan 217 Eurasian Heartland, major medical centers in Among mountain Tajiks 237 past 121-122 Figs 106, 115 Eurasian Heartland, meat 192-196 Fish, food species of Central Asia 196 Cooking 192-195 Fish oil 112 Sources 192-195 Five Snouts 264 Eurasian Heartland, medicinal herbs 18 Flax 106 Eurasian Heartland, mountains, mountain Fletcher, Joseph 127 landscapes 8-9, 15 Food borrowings from China 96-97 Eurasian Heartland, mythology 81 Eurasian Heartland, nationalism 73 Eurasian Heartland, nations 39-40 Galen 102, 116, 117, 118, 120-121, 145, 147 Eurasian Heartland, 184-185 And Dioscorides, translations Eurasian Heartland, oases 35 120-121 And agriculture 35 Food coding of 102 And agriculture and irrigation 35 Medicine 118 Eurasian Heartland, origins of civilization Gansu 93 高濂 74-76 Gao Lian 172, 271-277 Eurasian Heartland, pastures 13-14 On 273 Eurasian Heartland, penetration by On Halwa 271 ­ 172 for Black and Moist 276 Eurasian Heartland, Qing 清 conquests 172 Recipe for Comp-print Crisps 275 Eurasian Heartland, rain 12 Recipe for Crisp 277 Eurasian Heartland, religions 82 Recipe for Marrows 276 Eurasian Heartland, riparian forests 15 Recipe for Making 272 Eurasian Heartland, rivers 9, 12, 32, 34-35 Recipe for Manchu Candied 274 Eurasian Heartland, small mammals 25 Recipe for Nest of Threads 275 Eurasian Heartland, steppe soils 37 Recipe for Oil Harmonized with Eurasian Heartland, tree crops 32 273

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 330 Index

Recipe for Pepper and Salt Cookies 276- Haider, Jamila, see Van Oudenhoven 277 , see Halwa Recipe for Pine- Cookies 273 Halwa 182, 201, 204, 256, 257, 262 Recipe for Pine-nut Hailuo 海羅 273 In Uzbekistan 229 Recipe for Puffed Buckwheat 275 Halwåy Tar 278 Recipe for Roasted Flour 272-273 Han Dynasty 88, 89, 97 Recipe for Saboni 276 Han (nationality) supremacy 73 Recipe for Slices with Mint 275 Hansen, Valerie 135, 137 Recipe for Snow White Shortbread 274 Hayden, Brian, on feasting 55 Recipe for White and Moist 274 112 for Wind-Dissolved Cakes 277- Heaven 83 278 Helmand River 34 Recipe for Yellow and Moisturized Herodotus 110 Halwa 274 Hippocrates 116 Sweets 172 Hippocratic-Galenic medicine 116-120, 142 Gaoliang (Chinese liquor) 60 Hö’elün-eke 127 Garlic 49, 280 112, 280 Garlic chives, see Chinese chives Honeybees 280 Geography, physical 8, 9 Horde, etymology 46 Georgian language 72 Horses 2, 23, 41-42, 47, 49, 54, 60, 66-69, 76, Ger (yurt) 43 112, 150, 173, 181, 192, 232, 238, 268, 280 49, 182, 202 And humans 68 Ginseng 175 Botai Culture and horse 67 Domestication 2, 47, 66-68 Globalization 204 Kazakh consumption 238 41-42, 49, 64, 173, 181, 192, 220, 264, Meat 66-67 280 Milk 67 Göbekli Tepe 55-56 Origins, and Przhevalsky’s Horse 66 Gobi 44, 257 Sacrificed in medieval Russia 112 Goens, Benedikt on food 163 of horse meat (kazy) 150, 173, Gog and Magog 110-111 232 Goji berries 280. See also Lycium 忽思慧 24, 159 134 Huihui Yaofang 回回藥方 (Chinese medical Cities of the Volga 140 encyclopedia) 123, 144-147, 159-161 Goose (domestic) 95 Hüle’ü 132, 133 “Grains of Paradise,” 6 Humors, of Galenic medicine 118-119 Grapes 31, 57, 60, 81, 88, 174, 181, 205, 280 Huns 98-101 And raisins 31 And raw meat 99 Domestication 60 Hunting 21-29 Grasses and grasslands 13-15 Hunting Eagles 21-22 “Great Game,” 175 Huntington, Ellsworth 37 72 Huntun 餛飩 186 90 Influence on Central Asia 90 , on foods 196 Grigor of Akanac 129 On foods of later Uzbekistan 221-222 Grut 149, 152 Ibn Butlān 125 Guava 281 Ibn Faḍlān 111-113 Güyük-qan 131 And food 112

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 331

Ibn Khaldun 87 Juvaynī 128, 130 Ibn Sīnā (Avicenna) 48, 116, 122-125 Ilqanate 134 Kababs 193, 214 Inbalances 119 In Afghanistan 214 Indian Ocean, early accounts of 111 60 Indo-European language phylum 4, 70, Kaifeng 開封 128 71-72, 78 Kalash 84; foodways 85 And Uighurs 4 Kalmyk 165-166, 168, 268-271 In early eastern Central Asia 78 Agriculture, grown 269 Loanwords into Chinese 79 Color symbolism of food 270 Spread into Central Asia 71-72 Dairy foods 270 Inner Mongolia (Nei Menggu 內蒙古) 1, 15, Distillation 165-166, 168 41, 72, 93, 97, 181 Dumplings 270 Iran 30, 36, 52, 111, 148, 181, 219-221 Feasting 269-270 Eastern Iranian food 219-221 Food 268-271 Influences on food 181 Food intake 271 Iranian Medicine 148 Food rules 270 Iranic languages 49, 70, 204 Food tabus 271 Irrigation 28-30, 32 Herding 268-269 ‘Isā 145 Land use 268 34 Pregnancy food rules 271 Işin, Priscilla Mary 254 Tea 270 Islam 48, 83-84, 104, 181 Tsatsal Ritual 271 And Central Asian foodways 84 Weddings 271 Conquests in Central Asia 104 Karakorum Mountains 7, 8 Hanafi 83 Karez 35-36 Influence on foods 83-84, 181 Kazakh food 239-250 Legal traditions of 83-84 Bread 246 Itria 185 Dairy 240-241 Jams, jellies and 249-250 , Mongol invasions 134 Meat 239 Japanese language 70 Kazakh food proverbs 242-245 Jebe, and Sübe’etei 131 Role of proverbs and song in foodways Jia Sixie 賈思勰 102 242 餃子 186 Kazakhs 5, 21, 22, 173, 221 Jenkinson, Anthony 141, 163 Kazakhstan 1, 7, 13, 28, 35, 51, 58, 59, 67, 75, On food 163 81, 174, 177, 239, 242 Jerky 195 Festive board 239 Jewish food in Uzbekistan 230-231 First agriculture 75 Jin 金 Dynasty 105, 109, 127, 130, 131 Russian and Korean food 242 Jujia biyong shilei 居家必用事類, medieval Kazy 195 household book 155-189, 265 Kelley, Laura 251 “Muslim Recipes,” 155-189 Khakass (Turkic people) 174 Noodles 184 Khayyam, Omar 30, 192 Recipes from 156-159 113 Jujube (“Chinese date”) 94, 265 Khitan 81, 105, 108-109, 130 Juliana Anicia Codex 211 204 Jürchen 109 Khorasan 1, 30, 86, 219, 220-221

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 332 Index

Typical spicing 220-221 Lactase 75-76, 197 Khuriltay 127, 132, 133 Genes 197 (Khorasm, Khwarizm, Khwaraz- Lactobacillus 75-76, 197, 202, 284 mia) 115, 116, 128, 221 Lactose, Eliminating 197-198 130 Tolerance and intolerance 75-76, 197 Khwarazm-shāh 131 Laghman 190, 226, 231, 240, 255 Ki, Empress 282 Land connections, persistence of in Eurasia Kimchi 51, 284, 286 141 Kitāb al-Tabīkh 113 Languages 70-73 Kitāb al-Tibākha 113 Language politics 73 Kitan 81 Lattimore, Owen 38 Kohlrabi 106, 280 Legumes 196 Kokand 221 107 Kok chuchwara 228-229 Lemon juice 202 Korea 49, 88, 178, 281-283 56, 235 And interior Asia 283 Domestication of 56 Differences from Central Asia 282 In Tajikstan 235 Influence at Mongol court 282 Lettuce 280 Under the Mongols 281-282 Li Shizhen 李時珍 123 Korean food 177, 230, 281-286 Liao 遼 Dynasty 60, 105, 108 Chinese influences on food 282-283, Lily bulbs, as food 174 285-286 Lime 107 Congee 283 Little Ice Age 12-13. 135 Distillation 285-286 Livestock 38, 42 Finely cut 285 And agriculture 38 Grain 283 Ecological diversification 42 In Uzbekistan 230 Long pepper, see Pepper, Long Influences from West 281 Lop Nor 12, 52 Kimchi 284 Loptuq 257 Links to Central Asia 286 Lotus 144 Makkŏlli and other drinks 285 Lycium spp. 280 Meat 284 Noodle dishes 285 Mahmud al Kāshgarī 255 Pickles 283-284 Mahmudov, Karim, on Uzbekistan food 231 Pulgogi, conceptual stimulus for 285 Maize 31, 162, 174, 175, 176, 180, 206, 281 Rice 283 In Afghanistan bread 206 284 Manchu food names 172 Stuffed dumplings 282 Egypt 133 70 Mammals, hunting 26 Kumiz (fermented mares’ milk) 49, 76, 90, Mammoths 21, 53 148, 149, 151, 163, 164, 198, 232 Hunting 21 Black kumiz 149, 151 Manchuria, Turkish, Mongolian and Middle Distilling for araq (arkhi) 164 Eastern food words 171-172 Kyrgyz 21, 238 Manchus 170 Food 238 Manila galleon 162, 289 1, 174, 177, 234 Manta, see Manty Medicinal herbs, wild herbs for medicine Manti, see Manty and food 234 饅頭 186

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 333

Mantu 285, 298 Cooking 143-144 Manty 49, 186, 187-188, 255, 285 Food and medicine 142 Korean 285 Invasions of Russia and 131 Uighur manta 255 Post-imperial history 161 Mao Zedong 毛澤東 29 Raiding 129 Maotai 茅台 (Chinese liquor) 60 Rise of and climate 129 Marco Polo 55, 109, 134, 140, 153-155, 185 “Tengrism,” 83 And noodles 185 Wars with Jin 130 Did get to China 140 World Conquest 129 On Mongol drinking ritual 153 Mongol food 168, 194, 257-267 On Mongol feasting 154-155 Boil meat 194 Maritime silk roads 291 263 Marjoram 62 Dairy foods 258-260 Marmots, as food 159, 264 Distilling 168, 260-261 Mead 151 Dumplings, and noodles 263 Meat 192-195 Fruits and vegetables uncommon 264 Medicine, in Medieval Central Asia 116 Gathered foods 266 Medieval Warm Period (Medieval Climate Herbs 265-266 Anomaly) 12-13, 103, 129, 135 Jerky 262-263 Mei 梅 (Chinese ) 94, 156 Meat esteemed food 262 Melons 31-32, 57, 163, 174, 181, 205, 221-222, Medical 266-267 256 259 Menander, King of Bactria 91 Modernization 263 34` Mountain foods 265 Mice, as food 150 hips 265 Migration 42 262 Milindapañha 91 Soup 263 Milk 49, 148, 149, 182, 197-198, 259-260 Tea 259-261 Sprinkling 259-260 Tsatsal, milk-scattering ritual 259-260, Milk ritual, Mongol, see Tsatsal 267 Millet 31, 49, 54, 57-59, 75, 78, 81, 111, 125, 148, Whole-cooked lamb 261 150, 151, 174, 175, 190, 206, 235, 281, 283 Wild-gathered foods 265-267 Broomcorn millet, origins 57-59; spread Mongolia 1, 7, 15, 16, 18, 19, 26, 29, 35, 40, 41, into Central Asia 75 44, 48, 78, 170, 177, 205, 257-258, 264 Foxtail millet, origins 57-58 Conservation 26 In Afghanistan bread 206 Geography, landscape 257 In early Xinjiang 78 Livestock, five snouts 264 Millet ale 151 Roads, problem of 44 56, 141, 161-162, 289 Sacred landscape 257-258 Mint 201 Sacred trees 16, 18, 19 Modernization, concept 204 Mongolian language 4, 70 Mon languages 71 Mongols 21, 40-41, 46, 83, 86, 258, 263-265, Möngke-qan 131-133, 152-153 267 Tree of life 152-153 Belief systems 267 Mongol China, Arabic Medicine in 145-146 Mythic origins 46 Mongol empire 83, 86, 87, 125-135, 142-161 Nomads 40 Attacks on North China 130 Religion 83 Conquest of Khwarzmian Empire 130 Respect for animals 264-265

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 334 Index

Respect for nature 263-264 Oil (food) 148 Sing to livestock 264 106 Subsistence 258 49, 95, 174, 181, 199=200, 280 Traditional medicine 267 Chinese green 95 Moti Mahal restaurant, Old 212, 219 Oqol-qaimish 131 Mulberries 32, 205, 206, 216, 235 Oranges 95, 107-108, 125 In Afghanistan 206, 216 Organ meats, and blood 195 Staple for mountain Tajiks 235 Orkhon Inscriptions 90 Mung beans 60 Ostrovskikh, Peter, on Central Asian Muraviev, Nikolay 171 food 174 , as food 200 massacre 130 106 Ovoo 258 Myrobalans 125 Pallas, Peter 164-169 Nan (bread) 93, 174, 182-184, 206, 222, 234, Distillation 164, 165-166, 168 236, 255 Paklama, Uzbek baklava-like dish 231-233 Nauruz 52, 217, 230 Palov or Plov 226 In Afghanistan, foods 217 7, 8 Uzbekistan wheat preparation for 230 Pashtun language 73 Near East 54-55, 57 Pasta 144, 208-209 “Neolithic Diet,” 53 Afghanistan forms 208-209 New World foods 162, 205 Pastoral nomads, and Uighur 5 Arrival in Asia 162 (European) 105, 173, 235 Newman, Jacqueline 255 32, 94, 125, 174, 205 Ni Zan 倪瓚, cookbook by 109 And apricots 94 Nigella 202 Peanuts 281 Nomadic herding, modern 69 Pears 94, 174, 238 Nomadism, types 46 Pegolotti 142 Nomads 41, 42, 43, 44-47, 61, 196 Pepper, black 62, 111, 125, 148, 181, 162, 201 And kinship 46-47 Long 125, 162 And the land 61 White 148 Housing 43 Peremech 188-189 Hunting 43 Perilla 284 Lifestyle, history of 47 Perry, Charles 187-188, 196, 203, 212, 214, 217, Livestock 42 227-229, 240-241, 259-263, 278-279 Mobility 44-45 Persia and Persian Empire 88, 90 Nomads and agrarian empire 47 Persian foodways 52 Settlement of 46 Pickles 211 Traditional meal use 196 In Afghanistan 211 Noodles 95, 96, 181, 185, 194-190, 192, 279, 283 Pigeons, domesticated 69 Earliest known 185 65, 69, 264, 280, 285 In China 185 Domestication 65 In the Western world 185 (polo, pilau) 97, 192-193, 209-210, 226, Nutritional and dietary therapy, under the 231, 251, 255 Mongols 142 In Afghanistan, pilau 209-210 In Azerbaijan, plov 251 Oats 42, 173, 174, 175, 279 In Uighur culture, polo or palao 255 Ögödei-qan 35, 131 In Uzbekistan, palov or plov 226, 231

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 335

Pine-nuts 200, 283, 284 Qurma 193 281 Qurt (qrut; dried milk solids; aaruul) 152, Pines, bark, cones, and seeds eaten 200 197, 236, 241-242 Piora Oscillation 2200-2000 BCE 76 Kazakh production method 241-242 60, 106 Quvud 278 Pit-cooking 194 Plants, domesticated 56-60 284 Platycodon tips as food in Korea 284 Raisins 111 Pliny the Elder 110 Rashīd al-Dīn 108, 144 32, 174, 202 Hospital 144 Sour plums 202 On food 144 32, 60, 181, 252 Raspberry jam 249 Syrup 252 Recipes, see also separate list Poppy seeds 160, 201 Records, problem of 90 Population of Central Asian nations 31 Red Current 217 Portuguese, expansion in 16th century 162 Regimen 118 Potatoes 49, 176, 180, 205, 236, 281 Reindeer 46, 264 Pottery, origin 54 Religion and Central Asian foodways 82, Prehistory 53 288 Przevalsky Horse 23, 67 Religious tolerance in Central Asia 83-84 Pulses, in Afghanistan 206 Respect, for nature 43 Pumpelly, Raphael 37 Rhubarb 148 176, 236 Rice 54, 58-59, 96, 107, 119, 144, 174, 178, 209- 211, 236, 279, 283 Qabli pilau 210-211 In Afghanistan 209-211 Qaidu Qanate 134 Qan (Turkic term for ruler) defined 126 In humoral medicine 119 Qanat 35 Origins 58 Qanates, divisions of the Mongol Empire Richtofen, Ferdinand von 1, 135-136 134, 135 Rodents eaten in Medieval Mongolia 150 Decline of 135 Rome and 88 Qara qazan 245-246 Rosenberger, Nancy 224-226, 229- Qaraqorum 34-35, 90, 131, 149 Rouran (Avars) 44. See also Avars Qattama 249 Ruba’iyat of Omar Khayyam 30, 192 Qåwurma Palåw, Samarqand style 227-228 Rubruck, William of, see William of Rubruck Qimin yaoshu 齊民要術 102 Russia and Russians 29, 170-172, 175, 177, 178, Qin 秦, state 97 180, 204, 205, 221, 287 Dynasty 87-88, 97 Influences on food 178-180 174 72 29, 89, 170-171, 177, 178 Rye 151, 173, 174, 177, 235 Imports of fish and mushrooms 171 Early reference 151 In Mongolia 170 Replacing millet as staple 173 In Siberia and Central Asia 171 In 170 Sabban, Françoise 181 Qorma-i Sayib 213 106, 182, 202 Qubilai-qan 24, 55, 133-134, 282 In Iran 220 Queen Mother of the West 98 Sahlins, Marshall 126 Quick Manta 209 Saiga antelope 23

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 336 Index

Sakas 110 Silk 88, 135-136 Saksaul 15, 266 Roll of on , in China 136 Salma 114, 184-185 Silk Road 1, 52, 88-9, 95, 104, 110, 134-142, 162, Salt 148 178-179, 289 6, 142, 162, 204 And food exchanges 52, 95 Heavy eating 142 Decline and fall 162 Samosa 49 History, China 88, 136 In Uzbekistan 229 In Mongol period 135, 140 Samusa 186 In Tang 唐 times 104 Sardāba 35 Influences in Central Asia 178-79 Sauer, Carl, on domestication 54 Maritime 110 Sausage, horse tripe 150 New Cities 134 Scapulimancy 163 Origin of term 1 Scripts and transcriptions 3 Products 136 Scythians 80, 110 Traffic on 139 Sea buckthorn 18, 265 Silkworms 136, 144 Sea routes, Seattle 289-290 Sintasha culture 76 Sea trade, rise 289 Sogdian language 73 Seattle, as modern Silk Road termnius 290- Sogdians 103 291 285-286 Seaweeds 284 Song 宋 Dynasty 105, 109, 110 “Secondary products revolution” 66 Food 110 Secret History of the Mongols 13, 47, 127-128, 143 Maritime Contacts 109 Semenov, Pyotr, on food 175 Sea food 109 Semirech’ye 81 Sorghum 31, 59, 60, 108, 163, 174, 175, 279- 57, 60, 106, 174, 181, 280, 284 280, 283 Shams al-D¢n Samarqand¢ 125 Soybeans 270 Shang 商 Dynasty 77, 87 Soy 49, 202 Shangdu 上都 22 Spanish, expansion in 16th century 162 Shanyu 單於 (Xiongnu ruler) 47 Spelt (variety of wheat) 173 Sharbat 198-199, 204, 216-217 Spices 62, 95 136-137, 141, 142, 215-216, 280 In Afghanistan 216 In China, ones that were adopted and Shashlyk 193 ones that were less so 280 Sheep 41-42, 49, 64, 173, 181, 192, 220, 264, Lists of “spices,” including medicinals, on 268, 280 the Silk Road 136-137, 141, 142 Domestication and Central Asian Spices and flavorings in Afghanistan 215- forms 64 216 -tailed 64 Spices and flavorings, arrival of 62 Shelpek 249 Spicing of Central Asian food 201-202 Shennong Bencao Jing 神農本草經 117 49, 57, 106, 280 Shilaer 食來兒 254 Squashes 174, 176 Shish 214 Steppes 14-15 Shishkabab 193 Strawberries 18, 112 Shülen 193 Sturgeons 114, 220, 252 Siberia 171, 174 Sugar, in Afghanistan 216 Sichuan, land route to south 140 Sugarcane 125 Signature spicing 201 Sui 隋 Dynasty 89, 103

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 337

Süütei chai, “milk tea,” “tea with milk” 259, Terracina 151 260, 261 Thai language, word for 79 202, 253 Theophylactus Simocatta 110 Sweet potatoes 162, 281 62 Sweets 200-201, 216, 221-279 Tianshan 天山 Mountains 7, 8 Gao Lian’s Ming Dynasty sweets recipes Tibet 42, 170 271-279 Tibetan Buddhism 170 In Afghanistan 216 Tibetan language 71 9, 32, 34 Tibeto-Burman languages 71 Timur (Timur Lenk, Tamerlane) 141, 161 Taba nan 248 Toba Wei 魏 101 Tabib 144 Tobacco 162 Tacuinum Sanitatis 125 Toghun-Temür, Mongol emperor 282 Tajik food 234-237 Korean wife Ki 282 Dairy food 236 Tokharian languages 71 Festival foods 237 -noyon 131 Meat 237 Tomatoes 49, 176, 180, 200, 205, 236, 281 Settlements and food 235 Transhumance 42 Social change 237 Treaty of Aigun 171 Trebizond 135 Tajikstan 1, 28, 125, 177 Tsatsal (Mongol milk-sprinkling ritual) 149, Languages 235 259 Talas River, battle of 88, 103-104 Turan 86, 90 125 55, 151, 176, 179, 254-255 Tamerlane 141, 161. See also Timur Central Asian foods 151, 254-255 Tandur 202-203, 207, 222, 236 Turkic languages 3, 5, 49, 70, 71-72 Tang 唐 Dynasty 89, 102-106, 110, 140 , origin 46, 101 Central Asian influence 104 Mythic origin 46 New Plants 105-106 Turkish food, Central Asian roots 254 Tang food 110 72 Tangut Lungs 232 115 Tanistry 127 Science 115 Tanksūq-nāma-yi Ilḥānī dar funūn-i ‘ulūm-i 1, 28, 34, 177 Khitāy 147 Turks, emergence of 101 陶弘景 Tao Hongjing 102 Turmeric 60, 125, 202 8, 12, 78 Turnips 174 Mummies 78 Turpan Depression 7, 36 Tarim River 34, 44 Tutmāj (Medieval bread recipe) 113 32, 60, 73, 222 Tuva, tombs 80 Languages in 73 Public market 222 Uighur food 255-257 Tea 107, 122, 144, 181, 198-9, 216, 234, 235, 270 Ash 256 In Afghanistan 216 Chinese influences 256 In Uzbekistan 234 Ngan, nan 255 New to mountain Tajiks 236 Noodles 255 Shops 199 Polo, pulao 255 Temüjin 127 Sheep food of choice 256 Tengri and “Tengrism,” 83 Xinjiang melons 256

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 338 Index

Uighurs 4, 5, 105, 178 Spicing 223 History 5 Tandur 222 Languages 5 Tripe 232 Religion 5 Ulaanbaatar 37, 40 Van Oudenhoven, Frederik, and Jamila Urban sprawl 37, 40 Haider, on Tajik food 234-238 [U]mach 253 Vasco da Gama 161 28 Vegetables, in Central Asian cooking 31, USSR 29, 37 199-200, 211 Uzbek people 5, 221 In Afghanistan 211 Uzbek and Kyrgyz, medicinal use of Vegetables and spices 31 plants 234 Vegetation, overview 13-20 Uzbekistan 1, 28, 34, 37, 46, 51, 59, 85, 177, 133 221, 224-226 202 Curse of cotton 224 “Virgin lands,” 16 Origins 221 Visson, Lynn, on Uzbek food 231-233 Private plots 225 Volga River 9 Urban sprawl in 37, 225 Social conditions 224-226 Wallerstein, Immanuel 87 Village siting in 37 94, 111, 148, 174, 216, 233, 235-236, Uzbekistan, food 95, 221-234 238 Ancient fruit-growing 95 In Afghanistan 216 Baklavas 231-232 In Uzbekistan 223 Breads and dairy, products, jams, Warring States period 77 etc. 233 Watermelons 60, 108, 163, 174, 250, 256 Dairy 222-223 Jam 250 Dishes 223 Wedding foods, in Afghanistan 217 Drinks 234 Weeks, Martha 238 Food and foodways 221-234 Wei Dynasty 101 Food and the new 230 Wheat 31, 49, 54-56, 57, 59, 75, 77-78, 81, 112, Food as social indicator 224-225 148, 151, 173, 174, 175, 181, 183-184, 191-192, Fruits and nuts 223 220, 235, 279 Gender structure and food 230 Bread wheat, origins 57 Horse meat 232 Einkorn 56 Local dishes 223 Emmer 57 Marriage 230 Foods 191-192 Meat 222 Foods in China 279 Meat and fruit 231 In China 279 Medicinal herbs, wild herbs for medi- In early Xinjiang 78 cine and food 234 In Iran 220 Nan 222 Spread into Central Asia 75; to Palov, kebab and , and China 77 noddle dishes 233 148 Palov or plov 226-228 Whey 49 Popular dishes 229-230 Whole animal, cooking 194 Rice 222 Wild plants, gathering of 62 Russian and Korean food 230 William of Rubruck 149-153 223, 233 On grut making 153

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access Index 339

On Mongol dogs 151 Zhang Qian 張騫 97-98 On Mongol food 149-153 Zhongdu 中都 130 Description of liquor fountain 152 Zhou 周 Dynasty 77, 87 Williams, Dee Mack 39 Willow Steamed Lamb 194 Wine 115, 148, 149, 151 List of Recipes Wolfthorn berries, see Goji berries, Lycium spp. Afghanistan Wolf Soup 24 Dopiaza, with onions 215 Wolves 22 Egg bread 208 Sacred 21-22 Nauring palaw, pilau with oranges 213-214 Taken with hunting eagles 22 Pilau, types and recipes 209-210 Women, power of 48 Qabli pilau 210-211 World-system theory 87, 88, 89 Qorma-i-Sayb, meat with apples and split Wulff, Hans 218-219 peas 213 Quick manta 209 Xia 夏 kingdom 76 Xianbei 70, 101 Jujia biyong shilei (Medieval household Xinjiang Province 1, 4-6, 12, 36, 41, 52, 72, 76, encyclopedia) 78, 84, 96-97, 170, 174, 178, 181 Baldy 158 And China 6 Güllach 158 And religions 5 Halwa 158 And Uighurs 4 Julapia 159 Chinese migration 4 Kogurma 157 Early towns 76 Qarisa 160 Food 96 Quresh-e 158 Han settlers outnumber Uighurs 178 Rolled thin 156 Xiongnu 42, 47, 70, 80, 88, 97 Sour soup 157 in 42 Sweet börek 156 Xixia 西夏, state 110, 131 Tutum-ash 157 Xuanzang 玄奘, monk 104, 111 West of the River Lungs 160

Yaks 41-42, 49, 66, 264 Kazakh Yamnaya culture 76 Bauyrsaq, Kazakh 246-247 Yaqub Beg 170 Melon jam 250 Yellow sapote 281 Qattama, puff 249 Yesügei 127 Raspberry jam 249 Yinshan zhengyao 飲膳正要 24, 153, 155, Shelpek, fried thin bread 249 160, 184 Taba nan, bread 248 Game recipes 24 Turniyaz, soup with qurt 241 Noodles 184 Watermelon jam 250 Yin zhuan fushi lian 飲饌服食箋 271 49 Medieval Syrian, noodles 86, 89, 102, 289 Salma 113 月支 86 Tutmāj 113 Yurt 43. See also Ger Ming China, Gao Lian’s recipes Zakhīra-i-Khwārazmshāhī 145 Black and moist candy 276

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access 340 Index

Comb-print crisps 275 Tatar Crisp cookies 277 Peremech dumplings 188 Flour-with-oil candies 273 Ghee 273 Uzbekistan Goat “marrow” candy 276 Kok chuchwara, green dumplings 228-229 Manchu candied 274 Oshkovok manti 187 Nest of threads candy 275 Qawurma palaw, meat with rice 227-228 Pepper-and-salt cookies 276-277 Pine nut cookies 273 Yinshan Zhengyao (Medieval Mongol) Pine nut halva 273-274 Bal-po soup 193-194 Puffed buckwheat 275-276 Barley 189 Roasted flour 272-273 Barley soup (harisa) 252 Saboni 276 Cherry concentrate 252 Shilaier, sweet 254 Chuqmin, “long bread,” 207 Slices with mint (candy) 275 Cut flowers manta 187 Snowflake shortbread 274 syrup 252 Sugar syrup 272 rolls 160 White and moist candy 274 Red currant sharbat 217 Wind-dissolved cakes 277 Roast wolf 24 Yellow and moist halva 274 Tangut lungs 232-233 Umach noodles 253 Tajik Willow-steamed lamb 194 Halva 278

Paul D. Buell, E.N. Anderson, Montserrat de Pablo Moya, and Moldir Oskenbay - 9789004432109 Downloaded from Brill.com10/01/2021 09:39:10AM via free access