ADAPTING PATTERNS

If you've decided to dress-make because you're frustrated with high street clothes not fitting well ,then you will probably need to learn some basic alteration skills

Getting the fit right is trial an error, and PRACTISE! Give yourself time, and allow yourself to make some mistakes. Even as a professional seamstress I still make some rookie mistakes and boo boo's!

ALWAYS use your actual body measures, and compare to the size chart of the pattern company you've chosen! Please don't assume your high street size is your pattern size, sometimes it might be, but more often it's not

Before you get started, try on some of the clothes in your closet that don't fit you well and analyze where the fit is poor. Making a note of these issues will help you think about what fitting skills you need to learn. If you're making for yourself you don't need to learn every alteration under the sun!

Take some time to understand and how finished garment measures can help you really fine tune the fit of clothes and sizing

Suggested further reading Perfect fit-Simple clear photos. Although dated, it’s an easy to use book Fit for real people -this book has lots of fitting tips for all figures but doesn’t include trousers. The Authors -“Palmer Pletsch” are also pattern designers for McCalls and their patterns all include fitting tips and alterations lines not found on other patterns Create the Perfect Fit- A recent acquisition which has a fresh approach to fitting

Essential tools Paper A pencil/some coloured pencils A french curve or fashion ruler measuring gauge tissue paper Scotch magic tape Fine dressmaking Length of elastic or black tape( waist length) A full length mirror and a hand held mirror

Nice to have tools Sellotape dispenser-­‐ makes a handy pattern weight Wrist cushion Cardboard Cutting Mat . . N0 8 N0 1 How to choose your correct pattern size

The most important thing to remember about sewing from Commercial patterns is that the sizing is VERY DIFFERENT to High street ready to wear sizes. Generally pattern sizes are about 2 sizes smaller than British High Street sizing. The only way you can get good fitting clothes from a pattern is to compare your own body HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF measurements with the size chart provided on the pattern. For example if you wear a UK 10, then you may need a pattern size 14 in vogue, a 16 in burda, and an 6 in a collette pattern. The sizing varies across all pattern companies, so always start with your own body measurements

I like to think of this as Step 1 in the process, as depending on the amount of ease in a pattern I may choose a bigger or smaller size based on my personal preference for how loose or tight I want the garment to be.

Use my blank measurement chart below, to make a note of your own measurements

You need to make a note of an CLOSEST PATTERN SIZE MY MEASUREMENTS TO MY MEASUREMENTS unfamilar measurement on your personal chart, which is the high bust. 1 Make sure you’re wearing close-fitting clothes This helps determine whether or not BUST WAIST HIPS like a vest top and tights, or underwear. you need to make bust adjustments to ▼ HIGH BUST: THIS IS YOUR CHEST MEASUREMENT AND IS the pattern. REALLY CLOSE UNDER YOUR HIGH BUST ARMPIT, ABOVE THE FULLEST If your full bust measurement is bigger FULL BUST 2 Tie a piece of elastic snugly around your PART OF THE BUST LINE. than your high bust measurement by WAIST waist, and move about a bit. This will help ▼ FULL BUST: TAKE THIS AROUND THE FULLEST more than 6.5 cm (2½ in.), then you’ll you find your natural waist. Even though HIP PART OF YOUR BUST. need to do a full bust adjustment fashion dictates that clothes rarely sit right BUST LINE. (FBA). Use your high bust on the natural waist these days, patterns The last three columns on your personal chart refer to the pattern size measurement as your pattern size in closest to each of your body measures, and this will help you ‘blend’ have all been from this measurement, between pattern sizes. For example, you may be closest to a 10 on the so that’s the one you need to use. your personal chart Otherwise use your full bust. bust, a 12 at the waist and a 14 on the hip.

▼ WAIST: THIS IS YOUR NATURAL WAIST 3 Make sure the tape measure is firm. Too tight MEASUREMENT; TAKE or too loose and you’ll get the wrong size. THIS AT THE POSITION OF Using Finished garment measures to refine size selection THE ELASTIC YOU TIED AROUND YOUR WAIST. All clothes need wearing Ease! This is the extra you need to allow for movement. For example if you cut a skirt to exactly the same size as your body measures, then it’s impossible to breathe or walk! You need all your clothes to be 4 When you take the measurements, keep a little bigger than you, so they’re comfortable to wear. Minimum wearing ease is a matter of taste, but as a roughde the tape measure horizontal, and try and look you need 1.5 inches at bust, 1 inch at waist and 1.5 inches around the hips straight ahead.

Now for STEP 2 : ▼ HIPS: TAKE THIS These are the main measurements you’ll AROUND THE FULLEST PART OF YOUR BUM. need to determine pattern size. BUST LINE. When choosing a size, you should consider the amount of “Design Ease” that’s been allowed in a pattern. Design Ease is the amount of extra fabric in the garment over and above your own body measurements. If you compare your actual measures plus wearing ease with the finished garment measures for each pattern you use, you’ll be able to see how fitted or baggy the garment will be. You can choose to go up a size if the pattern has come up tight, or down a size if the pattern seems very loose. CL' s Top Tip: Use your tape measure around your body at the finished garment measurement to really see if this is the size that suits you.

. N0 2 Demystifying pattern markings

If you’ve never used a sewing pattern before, you may be baffled by all the marks and symbols printed onto the pattern. Pattern terminology is a bit like learning a new language. Unlike a language, however, there’s a limited number of terms or symbols to learn, so it’s really quick to pick it up. These are the HOW TO BLEND BETWEN SIZES main things you’ll be looking out for on sewing patterns:

GRAINLINE ARROWS NOTCHES This long, straight line with arrows at These little triangles are positioned one or both ends is pinned parallel around the outer edges of your to the selvedge of your fabric. This pattern pieces. They help you know ensures that all your garments will how to join the pieces together. Once hang correctly without any twisting. the paper pattern with all the writing on it has been removed from the fabric, you’ll need these guides. As Most of us need to blend several pattern sizes to get a PLACE TO FOLD good fit This indicates that the edge of the a general rule, single notches are pattern needs to sit flush with a fold used to denote the front sections of a Let’s say your hip measure is close to a 14, But you're a in your fabric. garment and double notches are used 10 at the bust, and a 12 at the waist. on the back. Once you’ve cut out your CUTTING LINES pieces, make sure you snip these little The outside edges of all the pattern markers into the edge of your fabric. Using a curved ruler draw a new shaped line between pieces are indicated on multi-sized the bust to waist, and then between the waist to the hips CIRCLE WITH A CROSS THROUGH IT hips to the bust. Your pattern is now tailored to your patterns by a series of solid and This symbol marks the main fitting own unique body! dashed lines. These will be numbered by size. Where there are lots of sizes lines on the body, i.e. the bust, waist marked closely together, it can be and hip. Sometimes the finished THIS ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PART OF THE confusing. Go over the cutting lines garment measurements are printed PATTERN PIECE FOR THE BACK OF A FITTED for your size in coloured pencil before alongside these symbols. DRESS IN THREE SIZES – 10, 12 AND 14. THE you trace. BLUES LINES ARE THE PATTERN LINES FOR TRIANGULAR LINES WITH CIRCLES EACH SIZE; THE RED LINE IS OUR HAND-DRAWN LENGTHENING/SHORTENING The outside lines of the triangle BLENDING LINE BETWEN SIZES, SHAPING THE indicate the stitching lines for darts. DRESS FROM A SIZE 10 AT THE BUST, THROUGH LINES Darts are used to create shaping in A SIZE 12 AT THE WAIST AND A SIZE 14 AT THE This is the position at which that’s HIPS. best to either add an extra bit of paper your garments. to make your pattern longer, or to fold the pattern to make it shorter. By PARALLEL LINES WITH CIRCLES lengthening or shortening along these AT BOTTOM AND A SINGLE lines, you won’t disrupt the proportion ARROW IN BETWEEN – TIP of the pattern’s design. This indicates the position of in the fabric, with the fabric being folded USE A COLOURED PENCIL SQUARES, CIRCLES AND in the direction of the arrow. FOR YOUR BLENDING LINES, TRIANGLES These are used to mark the end of AND AS MULTI SIZED PATTERNS openings, or at the end of lines POSITIONS CAN MAKE IT HARD TO SEE such as gathers. They are also used This shows where you will mark up WHERE TO CUT! to mark the position of details such as and sew the on your . garments. There is a corresponding mark for the button position, too.

. N0 19 MOVING BUST DARTS UP OR DOWN Your bust may not be at the same height as the one on the pattern, so you may need to raise or lower the bust darts. Darts are angled, making them a little awkward to re-draw freehand. This technique is really simple and there is no MAKING CLOTHES THAT FIT complicated geometry involved, plus all the shaping at the side seam remains intact. Fitting is more of an art form than a science and, like all great art the secret is practice. It’s impossible to make one pattern that will ft all the body variations that exist. Generally, women’s sewing patterns are cut for someone who is 165 cm (5 ft 5 in.) tall, is a B cup and has standardly Use a ruler and a pencil to draw a proportioned hips, waist and bust measurements. Only around 25% of people will fall perfectly rectangular box around the . Cut into the standard pattern sizes. To cover all the ftting variations would be an entire book all 1 around the box. of it’s own,but fear not: there are a few common alterations that can easily be made to paper patterns to make them unique to you.

ALTERING THE LENGTH

Always adjust the length before making any width adjustments. Paper patternAdjusting have the lengthen Pattern Pieces and shorten lines, which have been added at points that won’t affect the overall shape of the garment. If there are no Adjusting the Pattern Pieceslengthen or shorten lines, then you can add or shorten at the bottom of the pattern piece.

LENGTHENING SHORTENING Slide the box up or down by the amount you Cut between the two Fold the pattern along need to raise or lower. Make sure you keep lengthen and shorten its lengthen and 1 2 2 the cut edges parallel. Stick the box into lines. Spread the pattern shorten line. Make a tuck its new position and fill in the space with some pieces apart by the amount in the pattern that’s half . Use a ruler and pencil to match up that you need to lengthen the amount by which you’d and re-draw the outside lines. by. Slide a piece of tracing like to shorten the pattern; paper underneath to fill in for example, if you want to the space. Make sure to line shorten by 2 cm (3/4 in.), up all vertical lines like the make a 1-cm (3/8-in.) tuck. line. Stick the pattern Stick down the tuck to the to the tracing paper. Use a paper pattern, either above pencil and a ruler to true up or below the line. Use a ruler the outside edges. and pencil to match up and re-draw the outside lines.

check weight of pattern stitches check weight of pattern stitches

How to Raise or Lower Darts How to Raise or Lower Darts . . N0 4 N0 21 ADJUSTING FOR A NARROW OR BROAD BACK If you find that clothes strain at the back, and you end up buying a bigger size that then doesn’t fit your front, then the chances are you have a broad back. If clothes stand away from your spine along the centre of your back, then a narrow back adjustment can help. This is the real beauty of dressmaking: we can fine-tune the fit exactly where we need it. This technique is really similar to moving darts.

NARROW BACK BROAD BACK Some patterns come with an adjustment line Start in the same way as for a narrow back 1 for narrow or broad backs drawn on. If your 1 adjustment, drawing the two lines and pattern doesn’t, draw a vertical line down from the cutting out the armhole section. shoulder, starting 3 cm (1¼ in.) from the armhole and ending just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line out to the side of the pattern, Instead of overlapping the cut pattern at a right angle from this point. pieces, spread them apart. Again there MAKING A FULL OR SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT 2 are no hard and fast rules, but a 6–12-mm As most patterns are cut to fit a B cup, you may need to make a full bust adjustment if you’re bigger or (¼–½-in.) adjustment is usually enough. smaller than a B. While this can seem a little daunting to anyone new to pattern adjustments, it really can make a massive difference to how your clothes fit. If you have a small frame with a full bust, and you use your bust measurement to select a pattern size, the chances are that the clothes won’t fit around your neck, chest and armhole. If you’re smaller-busted, you may have unsightly excess fabric folding around the bust.

HOW TO WORK OUT IF YOU NEED A BUST ADJUSTMENT If your full bust measurement is bigger than your There’s no exact science to measure how much high bust measurement by more than 6.5 cm (2½ of a bust adjustment you’ll need. It also depends in.), then you’ll need to do a full bust adjustment on the garment you’re making. If making a loose- (FBA). Use your high bust measurement as your fitting garment with masses of ease, then you Cut along the two lines, and slide the pattern size. could skip making bust adjustments; for more armhole side over, lapping the paper. fitted garments, however, you would need some Stick in place. There are no hard and fast 2 The process of adapting the pattern for both a full adjustment. The best starting point is to subtract rules, but generally a 6-mm (¼-in.) adjustment Fill in the space with some tracing paper bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment (SBA) your high bust measurement from your full bust is enough. Play around with this amount as you and stick the pieces together. Use a ruler is the same, except that for an FBA you spread measurement and divide the difference in two. develop your fitting skills. 3 and a pencil to match up and re-draw the the pattern to add space, whereas for an SBA you We’ve given two examples below, and a space for outside of the side seam. Again, you’ll need to reduce space by overlapping the pattern pieces. your measurements. make the front shoulder a little longer to match.

EXAMPLE 1- FBA EXAMPLE 1- SBA MY MEASUREMENTS FULL BUST 97cm (38in.) 89cm (35in.) MEASUREMENT HIGH BUST 89cm (35in.) 86.5cm (34in.) MEASUREMENT

DIFFERENCE 8cm (3in.) 2½cm (1in.) FBA=half the 4cm (1½in.) difference Use a ruler and pencil to match up and re- SBA=half the 1¼cm (½in.) draw the side seam. N.B. You’ll need to make difference 3 the front shoulder a little shorter to match.

. . N0 22 N0 5 PREPARING THE PATTERN PIECES 8 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been FOR AN FBA spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel to one another. You’ll notice that 1 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to your dart has now spread apart, too, and become establishFull Bust Adjustment where your bust point or apex is. bigger. Full Bust Adjustment Mark this on the pattern with a cross.

9 The lower edge of your no longer meets at 2 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is from the marked point to the hem. Make sure now longer. Cut along the third line that you drew, How to fit that this line is parallel to the grain line on the and spread the pieces apart until your hem is level. pattern. As with most aspects of sewing, there are many MAKING A TOILE OR MUSLIN schools of thought and methods of fitting. It’s up This involves making up a test garment in an 3 From the top of this vertical line, draw a to you to decide which is for you, and how much inexpensive fabric that is similar in weight to the fabric second line up towards the armhole, hitting the time you’re prepared to invest at the fitting stage. you plan to use. Traditionally calico or muslin is used lower third of the armhole. Together these two Whatever your process, the best trick for fitting is to in couture to make these mock-ups or toiles. Many lines are called Line 1. ‘Fit as you sew’. Fitting your clothes at several points home sewers choose to make a wearable muslin, in in the construction process will save you needless a much cheaper fabric. so they aren’t wasting time 4 Draw a second line horizontally through the PREPARING THE PATTERN PIECES FOR unpicking, and is the single best advantage of sewing sewing up a test version. If you’re making a new middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the AN SBA your clothes rather than buying them. Always fit garment in fabric that’s extremely costly, then a toile bust point. before adding a waistband or hemming, as it’s easier is an excellent idea! Bridal wear and complicated 1 Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. to fine tune side seams without them. garments are also worth making up as a toile. Simple 5 Draw a third line horizontal line a little above This is essentially the same process as an FBA clothes that aren’t very complicated may not require the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of adjustment in reverse. Draw in the lines on the TISSUE FITTING the use of a toile. Once you’ve fitted a toile, the the pattern. pattern, and cut along lines 1 and 2 in exactly the This is a process whereby you pin the paper pattern alterations can be transferred to your paper pattern. same way as for an FBA adjustment. pieces together and try it on like a garment. This 6 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the method is pretty quick, and you can quickly see the PIN FITTING armhole, making sure you do not cut all the 2 Pivot the darted side of the pattern across the outline of a garment. If you realise that the style is not This technique is somewhere between the two way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so that other side by the desired SBA amount. for you, you’ve wasted no money on cloth. Another previous methods, and is a great time saver. Once you you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart advantage of tissue fitting is that you can correct fit have cut out your pieces in the cloth, pin the seams has now swung away from its original position. 3 The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at issues that would be impossible to fix once the cloth together as if you were going to sew, and then try it the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is had been cut. Tissue fitting can replace the need to on with the pins in place. You can do this with the 7 Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, now shorter. Cut along the third line you drew, and make a test garment. The disadvantage of this type of garment inside out, or with the right sides out. again leaving a little hinge at the tip of the dart overlap the pattern pieces until your hem is level. fitting is that the paper doesn’t sit around the body in I often pin fit inside out to save time, as the alterations so you can pivot. the same way as cloth. It can also be fiddly to do on can be marked directly onto the wrong side of the your own. fabric.

. . N0 24 N0 25 Sway Back Adjustment

This adjustment is the one that makes the most difference to at least 50% of my dressmaking students. What is a sway back and how do you know if you need a sway back adjustment?

lay the pattern flat, Measure how much you want to lose at the TIP centre back. You can the get rid of the excess either by pining out a dart like wedge from the CB to the side seam OR by slashing If you often find that there are folds or extra fabric 1 from the CB to the side seam and over-lapping. You’ll then need to true up the sides and the centre back. pooling around the waistline on the back of your clothes, then a sway back may fix this. Essentially the centre back is too long between the shoulders and the hip. This can be caused by a flat bum, You’ll now notice that the vertical lines like the darts, grain-lines or a backward tilted pelvis. are now no longer straight. Simply re-draw by placing a ruler in A sway back adjustment shortens the centre back of the 2 line with the ends and drawing a new straight line garment between the shoulders and the hips.

How to apply a sway back adjustment If your centre back seam is on a fold­‐ You’ll need to straighten up the Centre back seam line, as the sway back creates a curved line that can’t be placed on the fold. to a bodice or one piece dress 3 Use a ruler to straighten the centre back

NB-­‐ Not all pooling at the back of your garment is a •This adjustment is essentially a narrow dart/ wedge being taken out sway back issue. These are a couple of fit issues that may from the centre back to the side seam just above the waistline. On mis-­‐diagnose a sway back. some pattern brands like Palmer Pletsch, the position will be marked.

•The waist sits too high all the way around both the •One way to approach this is to do a tissue fit. If the centre back is front and the back-­‐ In this case you need to shorten not hanging down straight, ie it swings to the side, then pinch a the torso all the way around small tuck at the CB about 1 inch above the waistline.

•The side seams tilt forward and the front waist rides up too-­‐ In this case you may need to adjust the width on the front of the bodice to allow for a full bust. The final step is to true up the which may have become too short at the back. Use a ruler to square up the new hem line. •You have a delicious full booty-­‐ This can cause the 4 skirt to ride up into the waist because there’s not enough width around the hips. Try adding a little extra into the centre back seam of the hip area.

NB-­‐ Sway back adjustments need to be done on the paper pattern before you cut your fabric. Once the fabric is cut the only way to lose the excess fabric is by inserting a horizontal dart along the waistline, which is NOT ideal Adjusting the top of sleeves Fitting trousers ADJUSTING CROTCH LENGTH Compare your measurements to those There’s nothing more uncomfortable than a sleeve without enough space around the top arms. Like the rest of The complicated relationships between all the curved 1 of the pattern around the curved crotch the pattern, sleeves are cut to a standard size and your arms may not be standard. It’s deceptively easy to think shapes in a pair of trousers mean there are many, seam, and then divide the difference in half. that all you need to do is add extra width under the armhole, but this won’t fix the problem. This technique, like many fitting adjustments that could be made. In the FBA, adds extra space right where you need it, by slashing and spreading the pattern. And like the FBA, you fact, there are whole books dedicated just to fitting can do it in reverse if you need to adjust for slim arms. trousers. Here are a couple of the most common adjustments to get you started. Mark a point 8 cm (3 in.) below the waistline on both crotch seams. Draw a In the middle, where 2 line from this mark horizontally across to the two drawn lines CROTCH DEPTH AND CROTCH LENGTH the side seam, then cut along the lines, making 3 overlapped, spread In terms of trouser making, these are the most sure to leave a hinge at the side seams. your sleeve pattern out important measures to get your head around. TIP by the extra amount you need. The pattern pieces Crotch depth is the distance between your waist and To work out how much adjustment will need to overlap crotch line. To measure your crotch depth, sit on a you’ll need to make, measure your horizontally to allow this chair and measure the distance from your waist to the biceps. The distance across the sleeve area to spread. chair. It’s what defines the rise of your trousers, and from the armhole to armhole should can vary massively. measure be your bicep measure plus 4 cm (1½ in.). The difference between the pattern and your measurement is how much extra to add or take away. To lengthen the crotch, spread the pattern apart by the desired amount, making sure Anchor the pattern pieces together once 3 to hinge at the side seams. Fill in the gap you’ve spread the pattern by the desired with tracing paper and stick in place. 4 amount, anchor the pieces together, Draw a straight then fill in the space with tracing paper and vertical line from the stick in place. 1middle point of the sleeve head to the hem. The process used to adjust crotch depth is basically Then draw a horizontal the same process as lengthening and shortening (see Using a curved ruler and a pencil, re- line joining the two page XX). Slash a line along the hip-line and add in draw the curve around the top of the underarm points. extra paper if you need to lengthen or make a tuck if 5 sleeve head, which may have become you need to shorten the pattern. distorted. Crotch length is the measurement from the front waist, between your legs to the back waist. Measure from your To reduce the crotch length, overlap front waist, between your legs to your back waist. the pattern pieces at the crotch by the 4 desired amount and tape in place.

Cut along both lines, making sure you do not cut through the armhole edges 2 or the hem. Leave a hinge to pivot with, so that you don’t change the length of the seams or hem.

. N0 6 MARKING DOTS AND CIRCLES ON COTTONS MARKING DOTS AND CIRCLES ON SHEER Transferring pattern How to transfer specific AND ROBUST FABRICS FABRICS OR WOOLLEN FABRICS markings pattern markings This is a super-quick technique called pin marking. Pin marking is a great technique, but on woollen and sheer fabrics, the chalk mark is likely to fall off the Your paper pattern has lots of information written on Your paper pattern has lots of information written on surface. For these types of fabrics it’s best to use an it that will help you sew up your clothes, so before it that will help you sew up your clothes, so before old-fashioned ’s or mark. you whip off the paper pattern and pack it away, you’ll you whip off the paper pattern and pack it away, you’ll Pass a pin through the centre of the circle need to transfer those marking onto your fabric. If need to transfer those marking onto your fabric. If or mark you want to transfer. Slide the pin you’re sewing a fairly simple project, there are likely you’re sewing a fairly simple project, there are likely 1all the way through the pattern and both to be just a few essential markings. More complicated to be just a few essential markings. More complicated layers of fabric. Thread up a needle with a double thread. projects may have lots more details, such as pockets, projects may have lots more details, such as pockets, Make a stitch through the circle, ensuring that you’ll need on your fabric. that you’ll need on your fabric. 1that it’s gone through both layers of fabric. Leave a 2.5-cm (1-in.) tail. You’ll need to use some marking tools for this job. You’ll need to use some marking tools for this job. There are lots of options to choose from, so we’ll start There are lots of options to choose from, so we’ll start with the basics. with the basics.

• TAILOR’S CHALK SLABS MARKING NOTCHES Available in several colours, this a very cheap product These are the most basic of markings and appear as that lasts for ages. The downside is that you need to small triangles on the edges of your pattern pieces. keep sharpening the edges as they dull. The chalk Use the tip of your scissors to cut out a small triangle Open the two layers of fabric without brushes out of most fabric, but always do a pre-test in the of the fabric. Don’t make the removing the pin, and use a chalk slab or on a scrap of fabric to make sure. Useful for drawing cut too large, as it will weaken your seam allowance. 2 a marking pencil to mark where the pin in , the legs of darts, pockets and anything pricks the fabric. Make a second stitch in the same spot so where you need to see a stitching line. These are a MARKING OUT DARTS that you have sewn a loop. Cut the thread pencil with tailor’s chalk inside. Again there’s a range Darts are usually marked with lines drawn onto the so that there’s another 2.5-cm (1-in.) tail. of colours available. The pencils give a fine line and pattern and circles positioned over the lines. Use 2 can be sharpened with a pencil sharpener. They are either the pin-marking technique on the circles, or tai- more expensive than chalk slabs. lor’s tacks if you’re working with a tricky fabric. It’s a good idea to mark in the sewing lines with either some • MARKING PENS chalk and a ruler or carbon paper and a tracing wheel. There are lots of special pens available that are either air- or water-soluble and disappear from the fabric. You need to test on your fabric before committing to these, as on some fabrics they will stay visible. These are really popular and more expensive than the chalk pencils. Do the same on the other side of the fabric Gently open the two layers of fabric and • TRACING WHEEL AND ’S 3 cut the threads in the middle. There’s now CARBON PAPER some thread on either side of your pieces. These are very useful and quick to use. Place the TIP 3 carbon paper between the pattern and the wrong side of the fabric. The coloured side of the carbon paper When sewing with sheers or delicate needs to face the wrong side of the fabric. Use the fabrics, cut notches outwards rather than tracing wheel to roll over the pattern marks. When you cutting into the seam allowance. peel the pattern back, you’ll see a row of coloured dots on your fabric. Make sure you’ve marked both halves of your garment.

. N0 7 COMMON SEWING TERMS

Sewing terms can seem confusing and it may feel as if you need to learn a new language before you can get started. If you’re new to sewing, here are a few key terms.

Pressing Staystitching This is the way you smooth out all your seams and This is a row of machine stitches placed within the Facing stitching processes. There is a difference between seam allowance around curved edges, or at the top of This means to reverse stitch on your . A facing is a shaped piece of fabric that attaches to pressing and ironing: when ironing, you are merely garments. It’s used to stop the garment from stretching Check your manual for how to use the reverse button the edges of garments in areas such as the waist, smoothing out the fabric; when pressing, you work a or distorting out of shape while it’s being made. on your model. Use a backstitch at the beginning and neck and armholes to finish off the edge. little slower and push some weight into the fabric so end of every seam, and your clothes will never unravel. that it’s really flattened. Tacking (also known as basting) Grain Sometimes you need to hold a seam or a zip in place This refers to the lengthwise (warp) threads woven into Right side and wrong side firmly before you sew it on the machine. Tacking is a This is a strip of fabric cut on the bias of the fabric. the fabric. These are parallel to the finished (selvedge) You’ll see this term used throughout sewing row of stitches that holds a seam or zip temporarily It has a slight stretch, and is useful for finishing off edges of your fabric. The centre of each piece in a instructions. The right side of the fabric refers to the in place more securely than pins. You can either tack curved edges. You can buy it pre-made in a range of garment should have the warp thread running through side that will be visible when the garment is finished; by hand using a running stitch, or use a long stitch colours and prints, or you can make your own. It’s a them. Patterns have a grainline marked on them to on printed fabric, it is usually the side that is the most length on the machine. Tacking is usually done within really versatile and quick way to finish off the edges of help you position the patterns correctly on to the strongly coloured. The wrong side is the side that’s the seam allowance, so that it’s not visible once the garments. fabric. seen from the inside of the garment. garment is finished.

Bobbin Hem Seam Tension guides These are the small spools that come with your sewing This is the extra fabric allowed to finish off the bottom This is the process of joining two pieces of fabric Thread is wound onto reels at ‘tension’ when machine, onto which you need to wind thread before of your garment. can be a single fold, a double together. manufactured. When you thread a sewing machine, you can sew. They come in plastic and metal, and are fold, hand stitched or stitched by machine. A hem it’s necessary for the thread to retain that tension. often specific to your brand of machine. gives some body to the lower Seam allowance Tension guides are adjustable discs that keep your part of your clothes, and makes them hang well. This is the distance between the row of stitches in your thread taut. Check your sewing machine manual for seam and the cut edges of the piece. In dressmaking, Clipping and trimming the optimal settings for your machine. Once you sew a seam, particularly a curved one, you this is usually 1.5 cm (5/8 in.) If this is not the case, need to make snips into the seam allowance in order This is a product that is used to stabilise fabric and the project instructions will tell you how big your seam to create smooth curves once the garment is turned stop the garment from becoming stretched and allowance needs to be. There are lines on your sewing Topstitching right side out. If the fabric is bulky, you may need to distorted out of shape. It comes in lots of weights; machine’s throat plate that you can follow to help you Topstitching describes any stitching that is very visible away some of the seam allowance so that no choose one that matches the weight of the fabric sew an accurate seam allowance that is the same from the right side of the garment. Topstitching is lumpy bits are seen from the outside. being used. Interfacing is available in both fusible width all the way along. sometimes sewn using a heavier-grade thread as a (iron-on) and sew-in forms. are often decorative feature or to add strength. It’s used to great Easing attached to facings or the edge of hems. Shell effect on the seams and pockets of jeans that have to This means that one side of the seam is longer than Lined garments are often described as having two withstand lots of wear and tear. the other and needs to be manipulated in order to fit shells. The outer shell is made up in the fashion onto the shorter side, without there being any gathers fabric, and the inner shell is made up in the same Understitching or tucks visible. way in fabric. These two ‘shells’ are then joined By sewing the seam allowance through the facing very together. close to the seamline (3 mm or 1/8 in.), you can stop facings and linings from poking out to the right side.

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