sign in sign up
<<
Home , Bias tape, Pinking shears, Selvage, Tape edge machine, Tracing wheel, Zigzag stitch

M7405 >> MISSES’ DRESSES AND BELT

02 FABRIC & SIZE CHART

04 CUTTING LAYOUTS 07 MARKINGS 08 INSTRUCTIONS

SKILL LEVEL: VERY EASY M7405 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

Find the Perfect Fit! M7405CC THINGS YOU NEED: >> 13/4 yds. of 1/2” Single Fold , 11/4 yds. of 3/8” Elastic.

SUGGESTED FABRICS: >> Medium Weight Wovens and Knits: Challis, Cotton Knit, Crepes, Gauze. A C B C D

A C B C D

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 2 M7405 >> FABRIC AND SIZE CHARTS

SIZE CHARTS YARDAGE CHARTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) VIEW A 45"*** 21/4 23/8 23/8 23/8 23/8 21/2 yds. 60"*** 13/8 13/8 15/8 23/8 21/2 21/2 yds. VIEW B 45"*** 27/8 27/8 3 3 3 3 yds. 60"*** 11/2 15/8 25/8 23/4 27/8 27/8 yds. VIEW C 45"*** 31/2 31/2 31/2 35/8 41/4 47/8 yds. 60"*** 31/2 31/2 31/2 31/2 35/8 35/8 yds. VIEW D 45"*** 31/2 31/2 31/2 35/8 35/8 37/8 yds. 60"*** 31/2 31/2 31/2 35/8 35/8 35/8 yds. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) MEASUREMENT AT VIEW A, B, C, D 37 39 421/2 461/2 501/2 541/2 in. MEASUREMENT AT HIPLINE VIEW A, B, C, D 44 46 491/2 531/2 571/2 611/2 in. WIDTH, LOWER EDGE VIEW A, B 51 53 561/2 601/2 641/2 681/2 in. VIEW D 641/2 661/2 70 74 78 82 in. BACK LENGTH FROM BASE OF NECK VIEW A 37 371/2 38 381/2 39 391/2 in. VIEW B 473/4 481/4 483/4 491/4 493/4 501/4 in. VIEW C, D 573/4 581/4 583/4 591/4 593/4 601/4 in. BODY MEASUREMENTS SIZES XS S M L XL XXL (4-6) (8-10) (12-14) (16-18) (20-22) (24-26) BUST 291/2-301/2 311/2-321/2 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 in. WAIST 22-23 24-25 261/2-28 30-32 34-37 39-411/2 in. HIP 311/2-321/2 331/2-341/2 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in. BACK WAIST LENGTH 151/4-151/2 153/4-16 161/4-161/2 163/4-17 171/4-171/2 173/4-18 in.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 3 M7405 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

Your printed tile pieces should be assembled before you move on to this step!

PIECES (5)

DRESS A, B, C, D AND BELT C 5 PATTERN PIECES 1 FRONT 5 PIEZAS DE PATRON 2 BACK

3 DRAWSTRING 5 D 4 BELT C 5 GUIDE FOR ELASTIC D 3

1 2 4 C

A A

B B

C D C D

CUTTING AND MARKING >> SHRINK FABRIC if not labeled pre-shrunk. Press. >> CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width. >> Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, or surface shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used. >> For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD), fold fabric with right sides together. >> *DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD), for fabrics with nap, fold fabric A B crosswise, right sides together. Mark as shown. along crosswise fold of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place over lower layer, right sides together (B). >> For SINGLE THICKNESS, place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.)

>> Before CUTTING, place all pieces on fabric according to layout. . (Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary according to your pattern size.) >> Cut accurately, cutting notches outward. >> Before removing pattern, TRANSFER MARKINGS and lines of construction to WRONG SIDE of fabric, using Pin and Chalk Pencil method or and Wheel. Markings needed on right side of fabric should be traced. NOTE: Broken-line boxes (a! b! c!) in layouts respresent pieces cut by measurements provided. >> Prewash your fabric using a method that’s suitable for the fabric type. >> Fold fabric with right sides together, matching . >> Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric as shown below and cut them out using a sharp pair of dressmaker’s shears. MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 4 M7405 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

DRESS A DRESS B USE PIECES: 1, 2 & 3 USE PIECES: 1, 2 & 3 45” (115 CM) 45” (115 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES ALL SIZES 3 SELVAGES SELVAGES 3

1 2 1 2 FOLD FOLD

45" * m7405 DRESS [B] Sz XXL P−1015 45" * m7405 DRESS [A] Sz XXL P−1001

60” (150 CM) 60” (150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES XS-S-M SIZES XS-S SELVAGES SELVAGES 2 3 2 3

1 1 FOLD FOLD

60" * m7405 DRESS [A] Sz M P−1056 60" * m7405 DRESS [B] Sz S P−1026 60” (150 CM) 60” (150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES L-XL-XXL SIZES M-L-XL-XXL SELVAGES SELVAGES 3 3

2

2 1 1 FOLD FOLD

60" * m7405 DRESS [A] Sz XXL P−1007 60" * m7405 DRESS [B] Sz XXL P−1021

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 5 M7405 >> CUTTING LAYOUTS

DRESS AND BELT C DRESS D USE PIECES: 1, 2, 3 & 4 USE PIECES: 1, 2 & 3 45” (115 CM) 45” (115 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES XS-S-M-L ALL SIZES SELVAGES 4 2 3 SELVAGES 4 1 2 3

FOLD 1 2

FOLD SELVAGE

45" */** m7405 DRESS AND BELT [C] Sz M P−1030 45” (115 CM) 60”45" */**(150 m7405 CM) DRESS AND BELT [C] Sz L P−1061 WITH OR WITHOUT NAP WITH OR WITHOUT NAP SIZES XL-XXL ALL SIZES SELVAGE 4 SELVAGES 3 2 SELVAGES 3 4 1 2 1 2

FOLD SELVAGE FOLD

45" */** m7405 DRESS AND BELT [C] Sz XXL P−1028 60" * m7405 DRESS [D] Sz XXL P−1048

60” (150 CM) WITH OR WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGES 4 3

1 2

FOLD

60" * m7405 DRESS AND BELT [C] Sz XXL P−1036

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 6 M7405 >> PATTERN MARKINGS

GRAIN LINES to place on SYMBOLS straight of for matching fabric parallel to seams and selvage or fold construction details

FOLD LINE to place on fold of fabric

LENGTHEN & SHORTEN LINES two parallel lines where you make the pattern piece longer or shorter NOTCHES single or double triangular markings used for matching pieces together

TO SHORTEN to crease along adjustment line; make a fold half the amound needed; tape in place

SEAM ALLOWANCE the measurement used to turn up your TO LENGTHEN to slash between adjustment lines; spread amount as needed, keeping MEASUREMENTS edges parallel; indicates Bustline, tape over paper Waistline, Hip or Biceps; refers to circumference of finishined garment

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 7 M7405 >> SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

SEAM ALLOWANCES: >> Use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. >> Pin or baste seams, right side together, matching notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams. >> Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat. SEWING SUPPLIES ------In addition to the listed on the back of the envelope, the following supplies are good to have:

------

7

6 18

19 20 21

5

4

3 2 Safety Pin

1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 4 4 2 5 5 2 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

------SELECT YOUR SIZE AND PATTERN PIECES SELECT size by comparing your bust, waist and hip measurements to the body measurements on the envelope flap. Choose the size closest to your measurements. SELECT pattern pieces for the view you are making: Dress A, B: 1, 2 & 3 Dress and Belt C: 1, 2, 3 & 4 Dress D: 1, 2, 3 & 5 SEPARATE your pattern pieces, leaving a tissue margin around all pieces. PRESS each piece with a dry iron. This pattern has more than one size. Using a color pencil or highlighter, carefully mark the cutting lines for your size.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 8 There are three lengths marked on the Front and Back pattern pieces: one for View A, one for view B and one for views C, D (Views C, D are the longer lengths.)

------Select the length for your view and mark with a color pencil or highlighter. Also mark the pattern markings for your size. (See Pattern Markings). NOTE: Illustration shows Views A,B,C,D pattern pieces. Some pieces might have a common line for all sizes, ie: DRAWSTRING (3).

CUT pattern pieces close to the marked lines for your size and length, leaving a tissue margin around all pieces. ------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 9 PATTERN MARKINGS ------Solid lines are Foldlines, Placement Lines and Waistline. Broken lines with dots indicate Cutting Lines for the different views. Lines with arrows attached are Grainlines. Double solid lines are Lengthen or Shorten Lines. Dress pattern pieces can be also be lengthened or shortened at lower edge The following are symbols: Notches, Small and Large Circles.

------

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 10 ADJUSTING PATTERN LENGTH Use the double horizontal lines marked lengthen or shorten on the pattern to adjust the length. Be sure to make the same adjustment to both the front and back pattern pieces. TO SHORTEN: Cut pattern apart along the line marked lengthen or shorten. Overlap the pieces the deter-

------mined amount you want to shorten the pattern. Tape the pattern together. TO LENGTHEN: Cut the pattern apart along the line marked lengthen or shorten. Spread the upper and lower halves apart the determined amount you want to lengthen the pattern using the grainline arrows to keep the pieces aligned. Slip a piece of paper underneath and tape the pieces in place. Connect the side cutting lines. ------

SHORTEN LENGTHEN

Lengthen or Shorten at Lower Edge TO SHORTEN: Using a ruler, measure up from the lower edge and mark the determined amount you want to

------shorten the pattern. Connect the marks. This will be the new cutting line. TO LENGTHEN: Add tissue to lower edge of pattern. Using a ruler, measure down from the lower edge and mark the determined amount you want to lengthen the pattern. Connect the marks. This will be the new cutting line. ------

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 11 LAYOUTS It is a good idea to wash or pre-treat fabric before cutting to preshrink fabric. Wash or pre-treat the fabric as you would the finished garment. Press fabric if necessary. Circle the layout for the view, size and width of fabric you are using. Make sure you have all the pattern pieces listed for that layout.

------Fold the fabric to match the layout. See example below. The fabric is folded, right sides together, along the lengthwise grain. In some layouts, the selvages will be even with a fold on one side and the selvage edges on the other. In other layouts, the fabric is not folded (single layer) with selvages on both sides. Selvage

Selvages

Fold

Selvage ------

------Place the pieces on the fabric according to the diagram you circled. White pieces in the diagram indicate the pattern is face up. Dotted pieces in the diagram indicate the pattern is face down. Place the pieces with the grainline parallel to the selvage or fold edge of the fabric with the arrows pointing in the same direction. Secure the pieces with or weights. NOTE: The layouts are a general placement of the pieces for all the sizes. Depending on your size, your pieces may fit closer together.

SELVAGE 4

2 SELVAGES 3 4

1 2

FOLD SELVAGE

45" */** m7405 DRESS AND BELT [C] Sz XXL P−1028 ------

After laying out all your pieces, cut out the pieces. ------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 12 TRANSFER MARKINGS ------Transfer markings on the pattern tissue to the fabric pieces before removing the tissue. It is a good idea to keep your tissue pinned to your fabric piece until you are ready to sew. Follow the instructions below to transfer markings on the pattern to the fabric pieces. ------NOTCHES: Make a tiny clip at notch marking no more than 1/8” (3mm) into the , instead of cutting out the shape of the notch. NOTE: For clarity, illustrations in the instructions show notches cut out. ------

------SYMBOLS: Poke through the tissue with a pin at the symbols. Lift tissue and mark fabric with a water soluble marking pen or marking pencil at the pin. OR, mark symbols with a cross using washable carbon paper and .

------

------STITCHING AND FOLDLINES: Using washable carbon paper and tracing wheel, trace stitching lines and foldlines to fabric.

------

------After cutting out the pieces, label them on the wrong side of the fabric with tape. That will help to keep track of the pieces and distinguish the right and wrong sides on fabrics where both sides look the same. ------

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 13 SEWING PROCEDURES Read the instructions through before beginning. Wind extra . Set the machine for regular length, 10-12 stitches per inch (4-5 stitches per centimeter). Start each new project with a new needle. SEWING SEAMS 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances are included for all seams unless otherwise indicated on the pattern piece or in the instructions. Mark the seam allowances on your pieces for and accuracy of sewing. Pin the pieces being sewn, right sides together, matching the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances, unless otherwise

------indicated in the sewing instructions. If not marking the seam allowances, it does help to follow the stitching guide on the throat plate of your sewing machine. If your sewing machine doesn’t have a marking, you can make your own. (A). Measure and mark 5/8” (1.5cm) from the edge of a piece of paper. (B). Align the marking on the paper under the foot of your machine with the edge of the paper to the right of the needle. Lower the needle until it hits the mark and place a piece of tape at the edge to act as a guide. (C). Use the tape to guide your fabric. ------A B C

Tape

Paper

5/8” 1.5cm

------Pull the thread and the needle thread toward the back of the machine underneath the . Place the pinned pieces under the presser foot with the raw edges along the stitching guide. Lower the presser foot and begin to sew the seam. Remove the pins as you stitch. Do not sew over the pins. ------

------Secure the beginning and end of the seam by backstitching. To , sew a few stitches and stop. Change the setting to reverse stitching and stitch a few stitches in reverse, stitching back over the stitches that were just stitched. Change the setting back to regular stitching and stitch to the end of the seam and repeat the backstitching procedure. the thread ends.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 14 TRIMMING AND CLIPPING SEAMS

Trimming and clipping the seam allowances reduces bulk on enclosed seams.

PRESSING SEAMS Press seam allowances flat. Then press open or as directed in the sewing instructions. Clip seam allowances where necessary so they lie flat. ------

------FINISHING SEAMS AND RAW EDGES When working with a fabric that ravels, or to give a more finished look to the inside of the garment, finish the seam allowances or raw edges using one of the following methods:

(1) Trim the edge using . (2) Stitch a along the edge.

------(3) Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge. Turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold. (4) Using a serger sewing machine, stitch along the edges without trimming away fabric. 1 2 3 4

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 15 SEWING DIRECTIONS ------DRESS A, B, C, D AND BELT C NOTE: The first view mentioned will be illustrated unless otherwise indicated. ------Front and Back

------Turn under a 5/8” (1.5cm) hem on armhole edges of FRONT (1). Press.

------Open out pressed edge. Turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease. Press. Turn in along the crease. Stitch in place close to inner edge of hem. Press.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 16 ------To form casing, turn upper edge of front to inside along foldline. Press. Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge and stitch in place.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 17 ------Pin BACK (2) sections, right sides together, matching notches and large circles. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to large circle.

------Turn under a 5/8” (1.5cm) hem on back opening edges of dress above large circle. Press.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 18 ------Open out pressed-under edge. Turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease. Press. Turn in along the crease. Stitch in place close to inner edge of hem, pivoting stitching 1/4” (6mm) below large circle.

To pivot, leave needle in fabric, lift presser foot and turn fabric. Lower presser foot and continue stitching. Do not backstitch. Pull thread ends to inside and tie.

------Turn under a 5/8” (1.5cm) hem on armhole edges of back. Press.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 19 ------Open out pressed edge. Turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease. Press. Turn in along the crease. Stitch in place close to inner edge of hem. Press.

------To form casing, turn upper edge of front to inside along foldline. Press. Turn under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge and stitch in place.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 20 ------Side Seams

------For Views A, B, D: Stitch back to front at sides, having armhole edges even.

------Slipstitch upper ends of side seam allowances together by catching only a few threads of each seam with each stitch. Stitches should not show on outside.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 21 View C: Stitch back to front at sides, having armhole edges even and leaving right side seam free below large circle.

------Slipstitch upper ends of side seam allowances together by catching only a few threads of each seam with each stitch. Stitches should not show on outside.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 22 ------Turn under a 5/8” (1.5cm) hem on right side opening edges of dress below large circle. Press.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 23 Open out pressed-under edge. Turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease. Press. Turn in along the crease. Stitch in place close to inner edge of hem, pivoting stitching 1/4” (6mm) above large circle.

To pivot, leave needle in fabric, lift presser foot and turn fabric. Lower presser foot and continue stitching. Do not backstitch. Pull thread ends to inside and tie.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 24 Drawstring

------Pin DRAWSTRING (3) sections, right sides together, matching notches. Stitch along notched edge.

------Fold drawstring along foldline, right sides together, matching seams and having raw edges even. Stitch, leaving an opening near seam for turning. Trim seam allowances.

------Turn right side out. Press. Turn in seam allowances at opening and slipstitch edges together by catching only a few threads of each edge. Stitches should not show on outside. Press.

Insert drawstring through one back casing, through front casing and exit through remaining back casing, having ends even.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 25 When wearing dress, pull up drawstring and tie in a bow in back. Distribute fullness evenly on front and back.

------Waistline Casing D

------For easier insertion of elastic, baste about 1-1/2” (3.8cm) of seam allowances in place at casing area (within placement line.)

------To form casing, pin wrong side of purchased bias tape to wrong side of dress, having lower edge of tape along placement line, turning under ends to meet at one side seam. Stitch close to long edges of tape using presser foot as a guide to keep stitching straight.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 26 ------Cut a piece of 3/8” (1cm) wide elastic using GUIDE FOR ELASTIC (5) pattern piece.

------Using a safety pin, insert elastic through casing. Lap ends. Hold with safety pin. Try on dress and adjust if necessary. Stitch ends of elastic securely.

------Slipstitch opening edges of bias tape by catching only a few threads of each end. Stitches should not show on outside.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 27 Finishing Hem A, C, D:

------Turn up a 5/8” (1.5cm) hem on lower edge of dress. Press.

------Open out pressed-under edge. Turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease. Press. Turn in along the crease. Stitch in place close to inner edge of hem. Press.

------Hem B: To hem lower edge of dress, machine-baste 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge using long machine stitches, as shown. Press under a 5/8”(1.5cm) hem on raw edge.

Turn under raw edge on line of machine-basting. Pull up bobbin thread and adjust fullness; shrink out with steam. Baste hem in place close to up- per edge. Press.

------Machine-stitch hem along basting. Press.

------

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 28 Belt C: Pin BELT (4) sections, right sides together, matching notches. Stitch along notched edge.

------Fold belt along foldline, right sides together, matching seams and having raw edges even. Stitch, leaving an opening near seam for turning. Trim seam allowances.

------Turn right side out. Press. Turn in seam allowances at opening and slipstitch edges together by catching only a few threads of each edge. Stitches should not show on outside. Press.

MCCALL'S >> PDF PATTERNS 29 Congrats!

You've completed your sewing adventure!

SHARE YOUR look!

Post your pattern and tag us at @McCALLPATTERNCOMPANY and use #MCCALLSPATTERNS for a chance to be featured on our social media!

Look for more McCall's PDF patterns at McCALLPATTERN.COM

1-800-255-2762

Copyright © 2018 CSS Industries, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes.