IT'S FUN TO SEW acottonschool dress

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE PHASE 3 OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS 4-H CLUB SERIES 1-87 It's Fun to Sew---Cotton School Dress

Prepared by THETA JOHNSON C'othing Speci&ist, Extension Service Utah State University Logan, Utah

PHASE 3

Where to find page

Your guide for the project------1 page

Plan your project------1 How does your costume look to you'----12

Your anklets------2 Tips for easier ------13

Belt keepers------16 Improve your grooming------2 Darts------13 Care of your hair------2 Facings------14 Patterns for you------3 Fastenings------16

Fabrics you will like------4 Gathers------11

Guide lines------13 Before you start to sew------5 ------15 Study your ------5 Markings------13 Straighten your fabric------5 Seams------14 Pinand ------6 finishes------14 Check your machine------6 Skirtband------11 Practice on an easy-to-make article------7 Skirt ------10 Draw-string bag ------7 Stay-stitching------13 Swimming robe------8 's tacks------13 Apron or scarf------9 Complete your record book------17 Make clothes for school or play------9 Show others what you have learned------17 Blouse------9 Exhibits------17 Gathered skirt------9 Demonstrations------17 Gored skirt------12

School dress------12 Are you ready for the next project'------17

Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project. Your guide for the project 91 HIS PROJECT is for you who have This will help you review what you I learned the lessons of Clothing Phases learned in the other projects and to get the 1 and 2. You are now ready to do more feel of using the . advanced sewing. Make one of these articles: Third phase clothing features clothing for School dress school and play. It includes points on health Skirt and blouse and good grooming for you to study and use. You will learn to stretch the life of your Add to your 4-H record book clothes. Take turns leading discussions and giving demonstrations for your club. Look Your county extension agent will give at "Tips for Easier Sewing," page 13. They you a clothing record sheet and a sheet for will aid you in improving your sewing. your 4-H Club story for this year. Place them in front of last years' records. Keep your records as you go. You may record What to study the articles you make other than those that 1. Care of clothinglearn to keep your are required for your project, unless you have clothing in its proper place. made them for some other program or class. 2. Buying anklets and how to care for Keep a record of the activities you partici- them. pate in (such as tours, demonstrations, judg- ing, camps, and exhibits) for your permanent 3. Habits to improve health and groom- record. ing. 4. Style, material, and construction of Demonstrate to your club easy-to-make clothes for school and play. Give a demonstration at one of your club meetings. Show others what you have , 5. Taking part in special events such as learned. When you show another club mem- judging, demonstrations, and exhibits. ber how to tie a knot or sew on a , you are giving a "demonstration." Things Articles to make that are done or seen are remembered longest 1. Make one of these articles: and clearest. Work alone or with a partner. Swimming robe Plan to enter a community or county demon- Scarf stration contest. Ask your leader for help Peasant apron on how to give a demonstration. Choose a Draw-string bag topic you will study in your project. Planyourproject YOU WILL have fun making and buying project and to help you get the feel of the clothing for school or play. Plan this sewing machine again. Thereisa wide project with your leader and your mother. choiceselect something that you can make Remember that mother is a partner in this in a short time. Complete this article before project. Talk to her about what you want to you start your dress or skirt and blouse. make and show her this project book. She The second article is to be the main part will be glad to give you suggestions and help of your project. Here you will learn many you make a wise selection if she knows what new sewing methods. Select something you you are to make. have not made before. Choose something that First you will study how to buy and care will teach you two or three new tricks in for your anklets. sewing, but be careful to avoid dresses with The first article you will make is to help many details such ascollars,cuffs, and you review what you learned in your last1sleeves on one pattern. Your anklets Read the labels Buying anklets A combination of cotton and nylon makes a desirable anklet. You will find anklets It is important that you learn to select made of cotton with toes and heels rein- your own clothing. Why not start with buy- forced with nylon for longer wear. Blends ing your anklets? You will wear anklets for of nylon and cotton or other fibers are also many occasionssports, school, and best. used. Anklets are made of many new and Select them for the occasion for which you different kinds of and knits to add pat- intend to wear them. terns and stretch. New finishes are also used. You will find anklets made of many fibers Some finishes help to hold the shape and cotton, rayon, nylon, wool, or a combina- control shrinkage. The finish may require tion of these fibers. Each of these fibers special care and washing. makes the anklets feel and wear differently. A good anklet is closely knit, has a top Cotton anklets are soft and absorbent. They which will hold its shape, and the cuff is are comfortable to wear. A good quality knitted to the foot. It comes in colors which cotton anklet holds its shape and wears well. harmonize with your dresses or sweaters and Rayon anklets are not as soft or as ab- skirts. It is "fast color" and will not fade. sorbent as cotton and may not wear as well. Nylon anklets are made of staple (silk- like) and of spun yarn (wool-like). They Buy the right size anklets give long wear but are not as comfortable as To be comfortable anklets should be one cotton. This is because they are not as ab- half inch longer than your foot. Short socks sorbent. Wool socks are usually worn by are injurious to your feet. They do not wear athletes and people whose feet perspire a as long as properly-fitted ones. lot, because they are absorbent. They will Visit your store to study the newest types hold a lot of moisture and not feel wet. of socks for teenagers. H\ Care of anklets Good care will help your anklets to last longer. Wash your socks after each wearing. Use a mild soap or detergent and warm water. Have the water as hot as you can

1RO2 comfortably hold your hands in. Rinse the EXCEPT 0% NYLD ADDED TO HEEL TOE t TOP socks thoroughly in clear water and hang AOVERTIZ(O N COLORFAST VAT OTED them by the toes to dry. White socks may TRUE RI S TRAN5FERRWlop be washed with the family laundry. Always wash dark-colored ones by hand. Improveyourgrooming Care of your hair STUDY THE care of your hair for your good grooming lesson. Learn to comb, brush, shampoo, and arrange it. Invite the beautician or hair dresser in your community to talk at a club meeting. She will be glad to show you how to care for and style your hair. Have her show you how to make curls, waves, or rolls. Shiny, clean-looking hair adds to your good looks. It shows the condition of your2 health. Poor health, lack of rest, or poor food age. Good hair styling is important. If your can make your hair look dull. But more hair is shaped properly, it will take the shape often, dull hair is due to lack of care. You of the cut. Your hair styling will then be can add to the luster of your hair by sham- beautiful and becoming. pooing it often. Brushing will also add to Here is a trick for finding your hair style. its beauty. When your hair is wet, mold it around your face and try several parts. Try curving your part. It is more interesting than a straight Shampoo one. Always bring out your beauty spots. The base of any good hair style is a good If you have a beautiful hair line, display it. shampoo. There is no set time for a sham- Hair is styled for the individual. Try new poo. Shampoo your hair when it is soiled. hair styles. There are many designed for You may want to shampoo it every five days girls your age. if your hair is oily. Every week may be often enough if it is dry. Use plenty of warm water and a good Brush and comb shampoo when you wash your hair. Sham- Brush your hair regularly with a boar- poos are made for oily, normal, and dry hair. bristle brush for stimulation and to cleanse Ask the beautician which one is best for your your hair. Brush your hair carefully. Too hair. Rinse thoroughly to remove the sham- vigorous brushing may break the ends of poo and to add luster to your hair. your hair. The same is true of combing. Set your hair in pincurls as often as is necessaryto have your hairlook well- Style groomed. Comb your hair thoroughly when Since your hair is a frame for your face, it is dry. Set the waves or curls by combing a nice arrangement adds to your good looks. through the hair slowly. This gives you con- Hair worn in a simple style is easy to man- trol of your hair.

Patterns foryou

THERE ARE many attractive clothing patterns in our current fashion books. Choose a style you like and feel you can make. Be sure it has lines that are becoming / to your figure and size. You may need a style that is entirely different from the one your girl friend needs. Your mother and leader will be glad to help you make a choice. This is probably the first time you have used a pat- tern. Select one that has only a few pieces. Avoid details such as collars, set-in sleeves, and yokes. Select a pattern you can wear to school. The size pattern you will need is deter- mined by your bust measurement. It will tell you how much fabric you need After you have selected your pattern, and what trimmings to buy. Buy your pat- study the chart on the back of the envelope.3tern and fabric at the same time. Fabricsyouwill like

WHEN YOU select your fabric, the im- portant thing to think about is: What am I going to make from this fabric? When and where will I wear it? Then choose the right design, color, and weight for your pattern. You will want fabrics that are pretty, fun to sew, and fun to wear.

Color What colors do you like best? Usually the colors you like are the ones that flatter you. Hold the fabric to your face to see how you will look in it. Does it make your hair, eyes, and skin look prettier? Will it go with other colors of the clothing you already own? Is New finishes it a color you can wear to school this fall? New finishes make cottons more crease Is it a color you can find and - resistant and easier to wash and iron. But fling to match? It is the color for you if it finishes sometimes make fabrics harder to meets all these requirements. sew and press. You will find a finished cot- ton will make a crisper looking dress and Design will be worth the extra work it takes to press the seams while you are making it. Study the fabrics for the size, color, and placing of the design in the fabric. Do you want to count the number of spots on it? Labels Is the design too large or too small? A de- Read the information on the label on the sign that is small with interesting colors end of the bolt. It will tell you if the fabric without one part of the design being brighter is color fast, shrink resistant, crease resistant, than all others will make the prettier dress and either hand-or-machine washable. A good or apron. cotton fabric has all these features. Larger, brighter, and bolder designs and colors make attractive beach robes and bags. You will find it more difficult to make an Examine the fabric attractive dress or apron from plain colors, plaids, and stripes. Plain colors show every Examine a torn end of the fabric. If the mistake you make and plaids and stripes are ends and designs are uneven, look for another difficult to match. Border prints are used for piece of fabric. An uneven fabric with a finish pleated or gathered skirts. Try to match the cannot be straightened and you will not be design at the seams. able to cut your dress on the straight of the Cotton fabrics are beautiful and there are . Crush the fabric in your hand. Select many types of fabrics made from cotton. one that is soft and difficult to wrinkle. Learn to recognize at least five:Percale, broadcloth, sail cloth, cotton satin, and terry Tours cloth. There are many interesting novelty fabrics on the market. They have different Plan a shopping tour with your club. Take weaves and finishes. When you visit the store your mother with you so she can help you see if you can find at least three novelty select fabrics for your projects. fabricsembossed cotton, woven stripes, and Select all the fabrics you need for your a pattern weave. 4project at one time. Choose colors and fabrics that look good together. Remember that you Fabrics for Check what you need will be wearing your blouse with your skirt Dress or skirt...... so they must look well together. The bag or Beach bag or robe, scarf, or apron scarf you make must also harmonize with Thread to match your skirt and blouse or your other clothes. Also think about the time you will finish Fasteners, hooks and eyes your dress and select a style and color that snaps will be pretty then. velcro Shopping is fun Pattern, size Before you go shopping, make a list of all ------the things you will need to buy for your , projectequipment, fabrics, thread. If you Measuring gauge did not have a tracing wheel and paper last Needles-7 - 9 sharp year, you may need them this year. Make it a habit to buy everything you need in one trip to the store.

Beforeyou start to sew

Study your pattern Straighten your fabric

Study your fabric. You will find there are threads running lengthwise (warp threads) STUDY THE instruction sheet carefully with other threads woven in and out of these before you unfold your pattern. This will (crosswise or filling threads). Each of these help you know each piece of your pattern as you unfold it. When unfolding it, put your initials on each piece. You will find an arrow on each piece of the pattern that tells you how the pattern is to be placed on your cloth. This mark is called the "grain line." Learn to recognize marks for fold, seamline, darts, tucks, hems, center front and center back, buttons, and . When you can recognize all the marks on threads should be straight, not curved or your pattern, trim off the edges and pin it slanted. If the end of the fabric has not together. Have your leader check it for fit. been torn, pull one thread near the end that She will help you make any alterations that will go all the way across the fabric. Cut are necessary. 5along this line. Now if the ends of the fabric are not even, Cut notches out,not into your seam haveyourleaderormotherhelpyou allowance. straighten the cloth by pulling on the bias, Before you remove the pattern, mark all as is being done in the picture. darts, tucks, seams, buttons, and buttonholes. When the cloth is straight, pin the edges Ask your leader to show you how to make together. Now pin the pattern to your cloth. tailor's tacks or how to use ' trac- Crease-resistant fabric cannot be straight- ing paper. Use the lightest-colored paper ened. that will show on your cloth. Page 13 tells you more about guide lines. Pin and cut You need a large smooth surface for pin- Check your machine fling and cutting. A big table is best, but Before you start to sew, check the machine you can use a clean floor. . Your seams will not hold if the stitch Study your pattern layout. Fold your is not perfect. Try your machine stitch on cloth and pin your pattern as suggested. a double piece of cloth. Stitch on the bias Place the big pattern pieces on first. See and the straight. Does the stitch look the that the line that shows the straight of the same on both sides? If not, have your leader grain is placed exactly on the lengthwise adjust the tension while you watch to see "grain" or thread of the cloth. how she does it. For a review of what you learned about

SCI. VA GE the sewing machine in your other projects, practice sewing on a sample of your fabric until you get the feel of the machine. When you can run the machine smoothly, make one of the following articles for practicescarf, draw-string bag, apron, or swimming robe.

Cloth gude

ST9A/GHT OF GRAIN A cloth guide on your machine will aid in making the stitching straight. Place a strip of colored scotch tape on the machineinch, Measure from the to this line, or the width desired, from the needle if a making sure the distanceis equal at all gauge is not available. Keep the edge of the points. Pin at each end of mark as measure- cloth along the inside of the tape or guide ments are made. Now pin around the edge as you sew. Watch the edge of the tape not of your pattern. Place the pins at right angles the machine needle. to the edge. The pressure foot is a good gauge for edge Have your leader check the pattern on stitching. It is easy to stitch close to the your cloth before you cut. edge of a if you let the edge of the cloth Use long sharp shears. Take long strokes follow the inside of the . Ainch to give an even edge. Cut close to the pat- seam can be made by letting the edge follow tern. the outside of the presser foot. Practice on an easy-to-make article

Draw-Stringbag

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6. Take another measurement from the top, this one 4 inches down and mark. 7. Stitch a }-inch seam from top to first YOU MAY make a draw-string bag to mark, and fasten or back thread. Stitch review what you learned last year. This below second markings. Leave the space be- may be any size. It can be used for your tween markings open on both sides of bag. sewing, swimming suit, as a hand bag, or for many other purposes. 8. Make a-inch slash in the seam at lower markings and finish openings with - inch hems. Materials needed Fabric:Percale, sail cloth, denim, terry cloth, or towel. If you use a towel, select I / /4' NF.9O/,VC one approximately 14 x 23 or 18 x 28. il/N ------: Plastic bag. S Cording: Cotton or nylon cording.

Make your bag First decide how long and how wide you 9. Make a2-inch hem attop.Stitch would like to have your bag. Make it just through the center of the hem to make a large enough for the purpose you plan to 1-inch wide casing and heading. If you are use it for. Don't make it too large. making a swimming bag, why not line it with plastic. Either use a sheet or plastic bag. Follow these suggestions Make it the same size as your bag. 1. Pull threads to straighten material and At this point place the plastic under the cut on these lines. hem. Pin or baste into position. Turn right side out. Stitch hem. Use long stitches 6 or 2. Cut two pieces of cloth for the bag, 8 to an inch when sewing plastic. Small the size you want your bag to be. If you have stitches will cut it. enough cloth, you may cut one piece twice as long and eliminate the bottom seam. When 10. Make or buy the cords for your bag. a towel is used, remove the hems at both Make two cordsinch wide finished, 1 yard ends. each in length. (See apron sashesPhase 2.) 3. Place the two pieces with right sides You may buy cotton or nylon cord. For a together or fold through the center if one small bag use size 100; use size 150 for a piece is used. large bag. 4. Pin or baste sides leaving the top open. 11. Run cords through casing. Start each 5. Measure from the top or open end of cord at opposite ends. Sew ends of cord the bag i-inch and mark with chalk. 7together or tie a knot. StLVAC. 12. Box the bottom of the bag. Fold from corner so that side and bottom seams are to- gether. Mark and stitch across triangle. 3. Measure down from top 12 inches to mark arm hole. Then measure across end 2 inches on each side of mark. Cut along these marks. This marks the top of the side . Swimming robe 4. Mark dart. Measure 4 inches from bot- tom and mark. Then mark from this point to top ends of dart. (See diagram.) Make final

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PA.irR,Nr, 1. Fold robe through dart and armhole. Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Make shoulder lO inches long. Measure from arm hole. Make a 2-inch seam. 2. Pin underarm dart-2 inches wide at underarm and slope to a point 4 inches from Swimming is now a popular sport in Ore- bottom. Stitch. (See darts page 13.) gon so you may want to make a swimming robe. 3.Press a 1-inch hem all around robe in- You may make one like the one pictured cluding shoulder seams and armholes (see or select an easy-to-make pattern from your phase 1). To make hem turn edge back 2 favorite pattern book. Or, adapt an over- inches and press, then pressinch under to blouse pattern. Just cut it long enough to make 1, inch hem. cover your swim suit. Press, pin, and stitch hems in this order: Here is an easy one to make. It is mostly Firstfront; secondneck; thirdarmscye; hems. fourthbottom. Fabric:Approximately 1yards of terry Stitching the hems in this order will leave cloth, sail cloth, percale, denim, or other ab- the ends of the hem open so a draw-string sorbent cotton. can be placed in the top and bottom hem. If a draw-string is not used, the front hem may be made last. How to cut 1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise. 4. Reinforce underarm with bias or hem tape. 2. Measure in from cut end 17 inches and mark. Machine stitch around edge. Fastenings 1. Draw-strings or ties 2. Belt 3. Velcro 4. Large buttons and loop buttonholes 5. Large snaps 6. Buttons and buttonholes

Apron or scarf If you did not make an apron or scarf in your second year of club work, you may choose to make one of these now. Turn back to your second-year outline for these in- structions.

Make clothes for school or play Follow the directions in your pattern for making your blouse. Learn what all the markings mean. Stay-stitch the bias edges. Page 13 tells you how to stay-stitch. Select cloth for your blouse that will look good with your skirt. Be sure the cloth is firm, pre-shrunk, and colorfast. S Gathered skirt Select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt. Closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease. You will need from 3 to 3 yards of fabric for your skirt. The more fabric you try to in your skirt the harder it will be to make. For the girl of average height cut IF YOU HAVE completed and judged your your skirt as follows: small article, you are ready to start your main article. You may make a skirt and blouse, or a dress. You talked this over with How to cut your skirt your mother and leader at your first meeting. Cut or tear a 6-inch strip from one side By now you should have your fabric and of your skirt fabric. Measure in from the pattern and all the other things you will need selvage edge. Use this for the skirt band to make your chosen article. and . There will be some left over. Tear off the selvage edge from the large piece. Easy-to-make blouse You may have to cut the band from the If you make a blouse, select a pattern end of your fabric instead of the side if you which will be easy to make. Choose a pat- are tall and need the extra length. tern with few pieces and without set-in The above method of cutting gives you sleeves or collar. one seam on the placket side. 9-- Trim the seams. Start at the bottom of SEt VAGE the wide seam and trim it toinch wide up to the placket. Do not trim above this point. ctr TEAR Finish the placket 1. Baste and stitch a i-inch hem on the 4- back edge of the placket.

S!LVAG( 4"HEM Sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths. When this is necessary, you will have three or four seams in your skirt. This SKIRT may make a difference in the amount of BACK fabric you will need, so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric.

Make your skirt 2. Fold the front edge of the placket even with the seam line. Press. Now fold again to make a complete hem. Baste.

/1 FOLD

SKIRT Pin the short edges together to make the FRONT side seam. Make the seam l. inches wide. (1I2 It is to be used for the placket. When fin- ished the placket will be on the left side. Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam from the bottom up. At a point 5 inches from the 3. Pin placket together, stitch from the top, turn and stitch half way across the seam. top to the bottom of the placket, turn and Turn both edges of the seam toward the stitch across the end on top of first stitching. front section and press. Pull threads through and tie ends. This is a strong, easy-to-make placket.

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10 Hem the skirt Skirts look best with hand-stitched hems. Make the hem before placing the band on the skirt. Unless you have poor posture, it will hang even. Decide how long you would like Fold it in six equal sections. Then fold your finished skirt to be. Be careful not to it diagonally; then diagonally again. Open make it too short. Measure from the top edge the paper and pin it to the band and follow to the length you would like the skirt to be the creases in the paper. This will give prac- and press in the hem. Turn the top edge of tice on starting and stopping the machine the hem underinch. Your skirt will be pret- and on turning corners. Tear the paper away tier if you make a wide hem-3 inches or after the stitching is completed. wider. When the hem has been carefully pressed and put in place, ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch.

Place gathering threads at fop of skirt Make a long stitch on your machine. Use 4. Stitch a .-inch seam at the ends of size 50 top thread and heavy duty for the band. Turn and press. Do not sew the thread. i--inch fold at bottom of band into the seam. Using the guide on your machine, stitch around the top of your skirtinch from the Gather in fullness edge. Make two more rows * inch apart. Divide both your skirt and the skirt band You are now ready to make your skirt band. into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt. Do not include the placket or 1-inch overlap at the end of the band. Mark with colored threads. Mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket. The front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket. Pin and stitch band to skirt. Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt to right side of band. Match dividing marks Make the skirt band that you have made. Gently pull on the 1. Measure your waist. Add 2j- inches. gathering threads at the side seams, the cen- This will give you the length needed for your ter front and the center back. Pull the threads skirt band. Cut your band 6- inches wide. until they are the same length as the band. 2. Press a i-inch fold along one side of Work with the gathers until they are even. your band. From the folded edge divide the Baste and stitch along half-inch fold on the rest into three sections. This gives three skirt band. 2-inch sections. Make the section with the i-inch fold slightly shorter than the other Top stitch the band two sections. Press. Fold the double section of your band 3. The section with the .-inch fold is the toward the back and baste the edge of the front of your band. Stitch criss-cross through band to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edge the back part of the band. You can stitch hangs just below the stitching you just made straighter if you make a guide or pattern. on the front side of the band. Machine stitch Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and from the front side of the band. Place the width of your band, 24 x 2 inches. stitching as near the edge of the band as you can. Press before you stitch. Pressing will Fastenings for the skirt flatten the seam and make stitching easier. See Phase 2.

d''. Gored skirt You may make a four-gored skirt. If you

,1 do, you will need a pattern. Follow the in- t structions on the guide sheet. /11/)/,J1! School dress Thisisyour firstdress. Avoid set-in sleeves, collars, yokes, and . Use cot- ton fabrics. Study the instruction sheet in your pattern and follow it as closely as you can. Know what every mark on the pattern Press your skirt means before you start to sew. This will make it easier for you. Press your skirt. Use a dampened cheese- Pin your cloth so it is straight. Place the cloth and an iron set for ironing cotton, or pattern on the "straight of the grain" and use a steam iron. A skirt must be well cut with long, even strokes. Cut allthe pressed and fresh looking to be pretty. notches pointing out. After the cloth is cut, transfer the marks onto the fabric before removing the pattern. Use a tracing wheel whenever possible. Use tailor's tacks on white or pastel colors. Stay-stitch around all the bias and curved edges as soon as you remove the pattern. Remember to press as you sew. Press each seam as it is made. Pressing makes sewing easier and improves the looks of your dress, Hem your dress on the sewing machine if it has a full gathered skirt or by hand on flared or straight skirts or on plain colored fabric. Use a matching thread.

How does your costume look to you?

ONCE AGAIN, score your own and other 1.Design and color 20 club members' work. Record your judg- Are design and color attractive? ing on your own work in your record book. Are they right for you? These are the points to use in judging. Your score 4.Condition of article 10 1.Fabric or trimming used 25 Is it clean? Is it suitable for school or play? Is it well pressed? Will it launder? Will it wear well? 5. Value of garment .. 10 2. Workmanship 35 Is there good value for the Are they well made? time and money spent? Are seams, hems, finishes good choices? 100 12 Tips for easier sewing

Trace guide lines on fabric After all marked stitches have been made, remove pattern, separate fabric carefully, and G PAPER clip threads between the two layers of fabric.

PATTER - - Stay-stitch the bias edges One of the most important steps you take to keep the cloth from stretching out of shape is to stay-stitch the edges. Stitch along the curved and bias edges. These edges would be the neck, shoulders, waist, , and IT TAKES very little time to trace the upper hip line. Stay-stitching is done on each markings for darts, seams, and button- piece separately, through a single thickness. holes from the pattern on the fabric if dress- Stitchinch from the edge of the cloth, or makers' carbon and a tracing wheel are used. inch from seamline. Trace the markings while the pattern is still pinned to the fabric. Place the carbon waxed side to wrong side of fabric. Both sides may be marked at the same time. Use white or light-colored paper wherever possible. Dark colors have a tendency to work through to the right side. Trace all pattern markings OUTSIDE that are essential to making the dressdarts, notches, , openings, and buttonholes. 0 Use a ruler to trace straight lines. Make a bar at ends of darts and tucks. Use tailor's CEN1fg tROPIT tacks for white or pastel fabrics.

Tailor's tacks

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Pin and sew darts The purpose of the dart is to shape the CLIP TkROU(.W LOOP fabric to the body. After the dart is properly S4ORTEN N'S marked, pin the two markings together and Use double thread of cotton to stitch from the large end of the dart to the make tailor's tacks. point. Near the point, guide the fabric so Before taking your first stitch make a that the stitches will be only a thread or two hole in the pattern with the point of your from the edge of the fold. Fasten the threads needle. Take one stitch through pattern and by back stitching or by tying the threads. double thickness of fabric, then go over with Sew from the highest to the lowest point another stitch, leaving loop and long end. or from the widest to the narrowest point, 13 as shown by arrows on the diagrams to pre- Pinked edges vent stretching during stitching.

Use , if you are able to handle them. Trim off only the very edge of your seam. Be very careful.

Edge stitching

Make strong seams The life of your clothing is determined by the kind and quality of its seams. There are many types of seams and seam finishes. Each one has a special purpose.

After the plain seam is pressed open, Plain seam machine stitch along each edge of the seam. This is a stronger finish than the pinked edge.

Selvage The selvage may be left as a seam finish on your skirt. Clip the selvage every 2 or 3 inches. The clip should be no deeper than j. inch. A deeper cut will ruin the seam. Your seams are not complete until you have pressed them. Remember, always press The plain seam is the most commonly a seam before joining it to another seam. used and is the first step in making other types of seams. The plain seam is made on Make a fitted the wrong side of the garment. To make a plain seam, place the right sides of the fabric Edges that cannot be hemmed may be together. Pin and sew a seam the desired finished with either bias or fitted facings. width. This is usually inch. Follow the Facings can be turned to the right or wrong instructions in your pattern. Use this seam side of an article. They may be part of the on your blouse, skirt, and dress. decoration if used on the right side. Fifing and stitching 1. Stay-stitch neck and shoulders. 2. Insert a basting line to mark center Seam finishes front and back of the facing and blouse. Use Finishes are used on fabrics to prevent the darning cotton. edges from fraying. Use one of the following 3. Sew shoulder seams of blouse and finishes: facing. Press. 14 4. Press ainch hem around the facing. Wide hems Miter the corners and stitch. Make a 1-inch fold along the edge. Then 5. Pin facing to blouse, matching shoulder measure the width your hem is to be when seams and centers. Baste centers of front and finished. Pin, press, and stitch. of back together. 6. Machine stitch Hems for your skirt and dress a. Stitch around the , inch seam. b. Stitch center front. Start at pointinch from center fold, stitch to point B. B. is almost on center fold. Turn, take 3 small stitches (14-16/inch), turn again, and stitch to point C,inch from center fold.

1. Use a yardstick or other device to measure the distance you want your skirt from thefloor. Mark with pins, about 3 inches apart around the skirt.

7. Cut along center fold to point B. Trim neck seam to inch and clip seam every inch. 8. Trim off corners at neck openings. 9. Turn facing and press. After facing edge is finished, tack it to the shoulder seam of blouse. 2. Fold along the pin-line. Pin and baste along edges of hem. Pin top of hem to skirt. Finishing edges 3. Try the dress on to check length and If the facing is to be used for decoration, evenness of hem. the edge of the facing will be stitched to 4. Trim hem to desired width. The width the blouse or dress. of the hem is determined by weight of fabric and fullness of skirt. Make good hems Suggested widths Straight hems Moderately flared and You made straight hems on your scarf and medium weight. 2 to 3 inches on your apron last year. Here is a general review on how to make a hem. If you need Straight skirt of more help, see your last year's bulletin. sheer fabric------up to 4 inches Heavy skirts of Narrow hems wool or cotton------2 inches or less Flared skirts------l inches Make a fold1inch wide; press. Fold this over and press again. Pin and stitch. Circle skirts------*inch or rolled 15 3. Take a stitch in the skirt in the same spot where you pulled needle from the hem. 4. Repeat for each stitch. This stitch hides the threads in hem and wears well.

Choose fastenings you can make yourself 5. In circular skirts the top of the hem What type of fasteners does your pattern is always much fuller than the bottom of the suggest? You have skill enough now to make hem. To avoid a bulge, draw this fullness any one of several types. Remember, choose to lieflat against the skirt. Lengthen the the kind of fasteners you can make yourself stitch on the machine and sew around top and do them the very best you can. of the heminch from the edge. Place an- You have already learned the method of other row of stitches inch from the first sewing on buttons, snaps, and hooks and row. Pin the seams and centers of panels eyes. If you use any of the fasteners, sew and draw the bobbin thread until the top them on securely. See Phase 2. Make your part of hem is only slightly larger than the buttonholes with a machine attachment. skirt. in the fullness. This step is not A zipper may be necessary if you make a necessary on straight skirts. dress. Read the instructions that come with your zipper and study your pattern for help in putting it in your dress.

Belt keepers You might like to put belt loops on your dress at the side seam if your dress has a belt. Worked ioops are fun to make. 6. Make a i-inch fold at the top of the hem. Machine stitch along edge. Pin and baste in place. Hem on the machine or by hand. Use matching thread.

Blind hemming

1. Use matching double thread. 2. Hold the beltinplace on dress and loop thread back and forth across it three or four times. Take a knot stitch each time you sew into fabric. 3. Remove the belt. 4. Work across the threads with blanket 1. Fasten thread securely in the hem. stitch. Keep stitches close together. 2. Take a stitch directly across from the Select a belt for your dress at your local spot where you first placed your thread. store or have one made to match your dress. Then take a-inch stitch through the top of You will learn to make belts when you have the hem. had more experience in sewing. 16-- Completeyour record book Your record book is important. Are you Are you keeping a scrapbook of pictures enjoying keeping a record of the things you and newspaper clippings to round-out your make and do? Have you recorded the articles 4-H Club story? Are you keeping other kinds you have made? Have you recorded the ac- of things such as certificates and ribbons in tivities you have participated in on your per- your scrapbook? If you belong to more than manent record? How complete is this chapter one club are you keeping all of the things of your 4-H Club story? Are there other that have to do with each project together? things you should addwhile you can still remember?

Show others whatyouhave learned Exhibits Select one of the demonstrations you prepared for your club or prepare a new one. Showing others what you have made can Here are a few suggestions from which you be fun. Plan with your club to have a display for your mothers and fathers. Share with might choose. them the things you have learned in making Gathers for a gathered skirt your projects. If you exhibit at the fair your exhibit will be the main article you made. Laying the pattern on the fabric Be sure that itis clearly labeled so that it can be returned to you. How to stay-stitch How to thread and use a sewing machine Give a demonstration Make a hem for a straight skirt There are many opportunities to share Seams for dresses, blouses, and skirts the things you have learned with others by giving demonstrations. Watch for these op- How to make a swimming bag portunitiesother than your club meetings. How to make a head scarf

Areyouready for thenext project? 1. Have you kept your record book up to 3. Have you made two or more articles? date and had it signed? 2. Have you studied health and good grooming?

Keep this bulletin. You will need it for your next project. When you have completed all the 4-H clothing projects, you will have a complete sewing book. THE 4-H CLUB PLEDGE

I pledge my HEAD toclearer thinking my HEART to greaterloyalty my HANDS tolarger service my HEALTH to betterliving for my club, my community, and my country.

THE 4-H CLUB MOTTO To make the best better.

Cooperative Extenon work inAgriculture and Home Economics,F.E.Pricedirector, Oregon State tJversitynd the UnitedStates Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributedin of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30,9l4. 12M-September96t.