Nightshirt Instructions on Page 99
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PATTERN valet’s by MELANIE B. MACFARLAND AND LAURIE PAOLOZZI Project photo on page 4; nightshirt instructions on page 99 This vintage-inspired nightshirt for men features a yoke back, drop shoulder, cuffed sleeves, left chest pocket, and shirttail hem. Make it in fuzzy flannel, for cozy evenings by the fire that Bates would enjoy with Anna. © INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com PAGE 1 OF 46 cutting 03/23/14 layout Butler’s Nightshirt 58" 20” interfacing main S, M, L, XL All size 5/8 yd selvedge Valet’s Nightshirt 20" interfacing Sleeve Cuff (F) 5 All Size /8 yd Sleeve Cuff (F) Front Left Placket (H) 03/23/14 Front Right Placket (I) Butler’s Nightshirt 58” fabric Stand (D) S 2 1/2 yds M 2 5/8 yds Collar (C) L-XL 2 2/3 yds Valet’s Nightshirt 58" fabric selvedge 1 S 2 /2 yds 5 M 2 /8 yds 2 selvedges L-XL 2 /3 yds Stand (D) Sleeve (E) Sleeve (E) Back Yok (J) Pocket (G) Sleeve Cuff (F) Collar (C) Front Right Placket (I) Front Left Placket (H) Front (A) Back (B) pocket placement left side only fold © INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com PAGE 2 OF 46 XS S M ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRT L XL RIGHT FRONT cut 2 XXxx XS XS S S M M ASYMMETRICAL FOLDSASYMMETRICAL SKIRT FOLDS SKIRT L RIGHT FRONT L XL RIGHT FRONT XL cut 2 XXxx cut 2 XXxx XL L XS M S pattern M S ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRT L RIGHT FRONT XL XS cut 2 XXxx GETTING STARTED BASIC TECHNIQUES AND TERMS YOu’ll need to knOW FOR THE PATTERN YOU HAVE XL DOWNLOADED. L M XL AssEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT P ATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGSXL L S L 1 | When prepar- cut on fold M ing to print the PDF, S M BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE XS make sure that you are PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indi- XS S printing it at 100% and cate buttonholes. A large open circle is that there is no scaling. the button symbol and shows placement. XS Check the settings for page scaling (should be TEST SQUARE XS CUTTING LINES Multisize “None”) and check the S 2" 2" M patterns have different cutting ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRT preview to make sure L RIGHT FRONT XL cut on fold lines for each size. that you will be printing cut 2 XXxx at full size. Make sure that the box labeled PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is cut on fold “Auto-Rotate and a grainline marking with arrows pointing XS Center” is unchecked to the edge of the pattern. Place on the S M (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using ASYMMETRICALfold of the fabric FOLDS so that SKIRTyour finished L RIGHT FRONT XL another PDF reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, cut 2 XXxx 2 | piece, without adding a seam. XL check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square cut on fold L should be 2" × 2". M GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow 3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise S margin around each page. grain or fold unless specifically marked XS XS 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages S | as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the XL rows and match the M ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRT diagonal. L dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pagesL together. RIGHT FRONT M XL Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern cut 2 XXxx S XS is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- S NOTCHES Notches are triangle- M ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRT XS shaped symbols used for accurately low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. L RIGHT FRONT XL matching seams. Pieces to be joined will cut 2 XXxx LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES have corresponding notches. 1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace cut on fold the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto DARTS Dashed lines and dots mark the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. darts. The dashed lines show where the XL 2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting stitching will be, and the dot shows the L two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, XL M cut on fold position of the dart point (signaling the selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this L M S point, at the end of the dart, where your technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the stitching should end). S XS project instructions if you are unsure. XS 3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together | PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be that a mark needs to be made (often on cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold. the right side of the fabric) for placement 4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric | of elements such as a pocket or a dart with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless point. Mark by punching through the pat- a crosswise or bias grainline is present. tern paper only, then mark on the fabric 5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric cut on fold | through the hole. cut on fold unless otherwise noted. 6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project | A dashed line (some- instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to SLASH MARKS cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further 7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed. instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions. 8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully. © INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com PAGE 3 OF 46 valet’s nightshirt 1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut 1 interfacing VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut 1 interfacing Cut 2 main Stand (D) S,M,L,XL Cut 2 main Collar (C) S,M,L,XL 2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f pocket placement left side only WAIST VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut 1 main on fold Back (B) S,M,L,XL WAIST 3a 3b 3c 3d 3e VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT 3f Cut 1 main on fold Front (A) S,M,L,XL 4a shoulder 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Back Yoke (J) Cut 2 main S,M,L,XL shoulder 5a 5b 5c 5dXL 5e 5f L M S center front interfacing to here VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Front Right Placket (I) VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT center front Cut 1/2 interfacing Cut 1 main Pocket (G) Cut 1 main S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL 6a 6b 6c cut 2 main (cut 1, 1 reverse) 6d 6e 6f VALET’S NIGHTSHIRT Sleeve (E) S,M,L,XL interface to here Front Left Placket (H) VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut 1/2 interfacing Cut 1 main S,M,L,XL VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Sleeve Cuff (F) Cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) Cut 1 interfacing (Cut in half lengthwise) TO HERE INTERFACING 7a 7b 7c 7d 7e S,M,L,XL 7f © INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com PAGE 4 OF 46 VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Front Right Placket (I) Cut 1 main Cut 1/2 interfacing S,M,L,XL center front INTERFACING TO HERE interfacing to here VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Front (A) Cut 1 main on fold XL t n S,M,L,XL ,M,L, (Cut in half lengthwise) S eme c ly eeve Cuff (F) a ng on Sl t pl e d i ke VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT c t s f o p le VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Pocket (G) Cut (cut 2 main 1, cut 1 reverse) Cut 1 main S,M,L,XL Cut 1 interfaci WAIST S M L XL WAIST VALET’S NIGHTSHIRT VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Sleeve (E) Back (B) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) Cut 1 main on fold S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL shoulder VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT shoulder Collar (C) Cut 2 main Cut 1 interfacing VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT S,M,L,XL Back Yoke (J) Cut 2 main S,M,L,XL interface to here center front VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT VALET'S NIGHTSHIRT Front Left Placket (H) Stand (D) Cut 2 main Cut 1 main Cut 1 interfacing Cut 1/2 interfacing S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL 1a BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Right Front Placket (I) Cut 1 main Cut 1/2 interfacing S,M,L,XL center front INTERFACING TO HERE interfacing to here BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Front (A) Cut 1 main on fold XL t n S,M,L,XL ,M,L, (Cut in half lengthwise) S eme c ly eeve Cuff (F) ng a on Sl t pl e d i ke c t s BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT f o p le BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut (cut 2 main 1, cut 1 reverse) G - Pocket Cut 1 main S,M,L,XL Cut 1 interfaci WAIST S M L XL WAIST BUTLER’S NIGHTSHIRT BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Sleeve (E) Back (B) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) Cut 1 main on fold S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL 1b shoulder BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT shoulder Collar (C) Cut 2 main Cut 1 interfacing BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT S,M,L,XL Back Yoke (J) Cut 2 main S,M,L,XL interface to here center front BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Front Left Placket (H) Stand (D) Cut 2 main Cut 1 main Cut 1 interfacing Cut 1/2 interfacing S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Right Front Placket (I) Cut 1 main Cut 1/2 interfacing S,M,L,XL center front INTERFACING TO HERE interfacing to here BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Front (A) Cut 1 main on fold XL t n S,M,L,XL ,M,L, (Cut in half lengthwise) S eme c ly eeve Cuff (F) ng a on Sl t pl e d i ke c t s BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT f o p le BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Cut (cut 2 main 1, cut 1 reverse) G - Pocket Cut 1 main S,M,L,XL Cut 1 interfaci WAIST S M L XL WAIST BUTLER’S NIGHTSHIRT BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT Sleeve (E) Back (B) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) Cut 1 main on fold S,M,L,XL S,M,L,XL 1c shoulder BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT shoulder Collar (C) Cut 2 main Cut 1 interfacing BUTLER'S NIGHTSHIRT S,M,L,XL Back Yoke (J) Cut 2 main